How to Read AC Wiring Diagram

hey guys Jay here with word of advice TV and this video will be about how to read an air-conditioner wiring diagram how to read the symbols on it how to trace the wires see where the power goes first and what do all the different symbols on that wiring diagram mean and then I want to go over some wiring diagrams from other units and lastly I'll go over the wiring diagram of this unit and trace the wires with the help of the wiring diagram from this one right here so you can see it live how to trace wires according to the wiring diagram all right so here's the first wiring diagram we're gonna go over and if you don't get it right away don't worry about it I mean this is actually kind of hard to understand right off the bat we're actually gonna go over three of these wiring diagrams so hopefully by the time we're done going over all of them you will have a much better idea of how to read a wiring diagram for a condenser unit and this is just the first one there's the second one right there and of course the third one underneath and the printouts look a little bit curved or maybe even lopsided and that's just because this is literally pictures that I took from condenser units that I worked on and to be honest I don't quite remember what units these were I believe they were a carrier a Goodman and a Trane I just wanted to take pictures of different wiring diagrams so I can show you different examples of what you'll see in the field so I took pictures of these wiring diagrams and I went to office max and I blew them up so they're a lot larger so we can actually see what's going on and of course all of these wiring diagrams can be found on the access door to the condenser unit you know where all the electrical stuff a lot of times on the back of that door is where this wiring diagram will be so when I just start looking at a wiring diagram I like to look at the whole picture I like to look at the little tables that they have any notes that they have any legends so the color code is right here you know everything is abbreviated on the wiring diagram so BK stands for black are four red Y for yellow and so on so on you've got your wiring codes high voltage wires are going to be thick bold lines like that right here the thinner lines are going to be our low voltage lines like right over here and going to the contactor coil and a wire nut will be symbolized as a circle made out of dashed lines so there's really only two of those wire nuts right here and the whole diagram so that was the first column the second column says field wiring and then the third one says wiring for factory options so both of these see how they're dashed lines that means that they may or may not be in the unit and what that basically means is factory wiring means that the wires are already in there in the condenser unit they come with the whole unit field wiring this is wiring that has to be added in or installed by the Installer whoever's putting in the unit these wires do not come with the unit and then wiring for factory options just means that those wires may or may not be there for example the unit might have a start capacitor or it might not have a start capacitor if the start capacitor is in the unit that means those wires are gonna be there you're not gonna have to provide your own wires and then on the bottom here it has some more notes it says replacement wire must be same gauge and insulation thickness so for example if mice chew up a bunch of wires and you're replacing wires this note is telling you that really whenever you're replacing those wires they should be the same gauge and same insulation thickness as the old wires that you're replacing and before we begin looking at this wiring diagram I just want to go over some quick symbols and some things that you should know common HVAC schematic symbols so wires connected are usually going to be signified by a dot like this if the lines intersect if there's a dot in the middle that means there's a connection point there either they go to the same terminal connections or there's a wire dot that connects these wires together wires that are not connected usually if there's nothing in the middle here like a little wire nut picture or a dot that means those wires typically are not connected and on some other wiring diagrams wires that are not connected one of the wires will actually jump over to other wire and a loop just like that right there then you have contacts and what a contact means is it's basically a break in the circuit so this is a piece of wire this is a piece of wire and typically this will be a contactor so for example it'll go to one side of the contactor and then stop there and then until the plunger pulls in none of the voltage gets through so it's a break in the wire and the end oh right on top of it stands for normally open so this is a normally open contact that means that until this contactor coil gets power this always stays open and on the contrary this one right here and C stands for normally closed this symbol stands for contacts that are normally closed so until power is supplied in a normal condition this one right here would be normally open and this one right here would be normally closed and I know this might sound a little confusing but just bear with me when we start going over to wiring diagrams you're gonna understand that a lot better then you have the pressure controls so right here once again that's a wire that's a wire and right in the middle right here this is a symbol for a switch so for example let's say your furnace power switch right this is what it would look like you have a line coming in so a wire coming in you have 120 volts coming in right this is your furnace or your air handle or power switch or any lights for that matter so right here this is a symbol for an open switch so let's say your lights are off this is what it would look like on a wiring diagram now if you turn your lights on and you flip that switch this switch will close and allow the 120 volts through or whatever the voltage is so that's a switch up on top but right below it this plunger looking thing that's the symbol for pressure and this will typically be your low-pressure cutoff or your high pressure switch on the air conditioner condenser unit most wiring diagrams are read left to right just like reading a book so if you read it from left to right see how this switch goes on top of the dot right here that means that this switch can only go up so this would be our high pressure switch so the high pressure switch would go up and interrupts the circuit if the pressures are getting too high in the refrigeration system and this one would be the LPC the low pressure cutoff so as you can see the switch is under the dot so it can only go down so if the unit is running and the pressures inside of the system are getting too low the low pressure cutoff will go down and interrupt the circuit and turn off your unit and then we have thermostat switches and they work very similar to how the pressure switches work except they're activated by temperature thermostats so this one would open on temperature rise and this one would open on temperature drop so these are some of the common HVAC schematic symbols and there's actually a ton of them I won't be able to cover them all and when we come across them in the wiring diagram I can just explain them as we go and just two more things I want to draw so a squiggly line like that is a resistor so this is a winding that consumes power so if there's power coming in to it either 240 or on or 20 volts this is a symbol for a load so this resistor right here it actually resists the flow of electricity so it gets hot when power is supplied to it whereas a magnetic winding or a coil these inductive windings they consume power as well so they're also what you would call a load inductive winding they consume power so they use electricity so resistors are primarily to make heat whereas inductive windings are used to move something like a motor or a compressor for example so if we look at our wiring diagram right here we have inductive windings on our compressor over here as well so it's the round squiggles whereas the crank case heater which is used to heat up the compressor crankcase is jagged like that because it does get hot when power is supplied and that's about it for the basics let's actually get back to the wiring diagrams and start taking a look at them so on most wiring diagrams you're gonna have two sides to them on the left side you have the connection diagram or the point-to-point diagram as they're sometimes called and the purpose of this diagram primarily is to show you which color wires go to which components and then all the components are actually in one place so the contactor for example is all in one piece right here but in the other side we have the ladder diagram and the ladder diagram is used more for troubleshooting it's read from top to bottom left to right and the components are not necessarily in the same place like on the point-to-point schematic so for example see how the contactor is all in one place right here you have the T 1 L 1 T 2 L 2 and then the contactor coil whereas on the ladder diagram you have L 2 t 2 right here you have L 1 T 1 right here and you have the contactor coil right over here when I was going to school and studying electrical diagrams this was one of the hardest parts for me to understand that the same component can be in multiple different locations I mean I can understand this you know where it's all in one spot but when it's all split up like that that a little bit more confusing but hopefully by the time we're all done you're gonna understand how it works and you're gonna understand why it split up like that as well so let's begin and I think we'll actually start on the ladder diagram and we'll start from the low voltage this is one of the only wiring diagrams I could find that has such a nice low voltage diagram most of them will only have something that'll just say R and Y and that's it they won't have this whole thermostat part of it and when we look at the other wiring diagrams you'll see what I mean this is basically the only condenser wiring diagram I was able to find that had such a nice diagram for the low voltage part of things so I definitely took a picture of it and let's go ahead and go over how this part of it works so right here it says that we have the indoor power supply and this is in the furnace or air handler in most cases this is gonna be a hundred twenty volts so you're gonna have 120 volts hot coming in on one side and then you're gonna have your common on the other side label that as C so that's basically power coming in to your furnace or air handler so the red will pretty much be a live circuit so that's gonna be our 120 volts and we'll use blue for common like that on most wiring diagrams this will not be connected see how there's a line right there and right there that really shouldn't be there because this is 24 volts and this down here is a hundred twenty volts so those lines should not be touching like that and then we have this symbol right here which is three lines and then you got the windings on either side this is a symbol for a transformer and this is a step-down transformer so it gets a hundred and twenty volts and it steps it down to 24 volts so basically the furnace is getting 120 volts the power gets to the transformer the transformer steps it down to 24 volts and power goes in to our and we'll just follow this line once this is energized power immediately goes through all of this and energizes all these lines wherever there's no breaks and the wire that means that power is immediately there once the power is turned on to the furnace so power just comes in and sits in all these points right here and this is a diagram of a really simple thermostat so the thermostat has a fan setting switch you know the fan you can set it to either on or Auto this is the switch so this bar right here I'm going to go ahead and color that as yellow so basically this bar will be the thermostat switch for the fan so if you move over to fan switch on this thermostat from auto to on it will automatically once you flip that switch to on so this bar will go over to here and this will send power through the G line which goes into the fan relay coil and once the fan relay coil energizes that will turn on the blower fan inside of your furnace and this is the common coming out of that fan relay coil so as a reminder this transformer is getting a hundred twenty volts and it's putting out putting out 24 volts so this whole red line on top here after the transformer everything is 24 volts so we turned our fan switch from auto to on and this closed this circuit and it went through and energized the fan relay coil which in turn powered on our blower motor inside the furnace but of course this fan switch has nothing to do with the furnace or the air conditioner this simply controls the fan in the blower fan inside of the furnace to either come on 24/7 or stand Auto when it's on auto that means that it only comes on when the furnace is on or when the air conditioner is on outside so let's go back to where the power stopped over here right over there and as you can see here's our power switch on the thermostat so you can it's on/off right now this little bus bar is on/off then you have a cool setting and a heat setting so right here we have the contact points so right there we have an open circuit right there's no power going through these lines right here and if you move this bar if you move the thermostat switch either down or up up will turn on the cooling and down will turn on the heat so right here we have our thermostat bulb this is one of those bulbs that has the mercury in it so it reacts to the temperature in the room you know if it gets cold or if it gets hotter this thing will move up and down accordingly so it's almost like that temperature switch that we went over earlier so whenever the heat goes up this will open or when it goes down it'll closed works in a very similar way except it has anticipators no it has the cool anticipator and the heat anticipator that you can adjust on the heat cycle of it I won't go into all of that in this video because that's just way too much to cover but basically let's say we will turn this bar to cooling which will close this circuit right here and let's say that we set our thermostat to 72 and it's actually 82 in the house so if it's 82 this little switch this thermostat activated switch will actually swing up so it'll go up for cooling and it'll make a connection with this point right here so once it makes a connection power will go through and energize the fan if you have it set to auto if it's an on then your fan is going to be already on in the furnace or your air handler and then it will also send 24 volts to Y and Y sends 24 volts out to the contactor coil which is in the air conditioner so 24 volts goes in and then the 24 volt common goes back to the common on the thermostat strip in the control board and I forgot to draw the common on our 24 volt side but that basically goes to the same spot and I know we're not talking about heating here but same thing would apply in the heating so if we set our switch down to heat that will close these two terminals so it would close these two right here now we have power going through and if our temperature in the house drops down this little mercury bulb will drop remember we're talking about a really old thermostat here this will drop and make a connection between those two points right there power will go through and go to W which will power on the coil that turns on your eating and of course I forgot to color our switch yellow here there you go now the picture is complete so that is going to be our 24 volt side let's say that we set our thermostat to cooling and the temperature inside the house went up so the power went through and energized our contactor coil and what that contactor coil does is closed the contactor contacts that are normally open remember how we went over the normally open contacts so this is normally open so it's just sitting there open but whatever does contactor coil closes up whenever it gets power it pulls down to contact your plunger and closes this normally open switch and allows the 240 volts to go through so let's see what that would look like so from our disconnect box outside we have two hot legs coming into our air conditioner unit both of them are 120 volts by the way this is another common question asked between the new guys and that's something I asked in the beginning as well where is the common and actually on a 240 volts AC unit there is no common you just have two hot Lakes that give you 240 volts and if one of these hot legs is missing let's say one of the disconnect fuses is blown and you're only getting 120 volts nothing will turn on because the compressor and the fan motor they both need 240 volts to run 120 volts will not turn these things on so we have 240 volts coming from l1 and l2 so l2 comes in this is a single pole contactor because it only has one break whereas this side does not have a break see how it says contactor contactor but there's no break on this one so it's a single pole contactor there's only a break on one side so just one plunger and set up two let's draw a quick picture so we see what that looks like so let's say this is our contactor right I know my art is terrible but these are the two plungers so these brass plates that are attached to the contactor they are the ones that close and make a connection so for example you have your two wires that come in from your disconnect right usually one is gonna be red one is gonna be black so you have 240 volts just sitting here right here probably under two screws then you have two more connectors right here so you got a wire here and a wire here this is going to be your 24 volts right the contactor coil itself is actually under the contactor so what's the thermostat calls for cooling this contactor when it's energized pulls down these plungers there's another screw right here with wires coming out it pulls down this contactor and these brass plates make a connection and they allow the 240 volts to come through so this is a two pole contactor and the one that we're looking at right here would be the same thing except it'll only have one plunger and the other one is just going to be a brass bar or whatever metal it's made out of that connects right to the screws so this unit actually always has 120 volts just sitting there always 120 volts there but the second one right here the second 120 volt leg pulls in only when the thermostat is calling for cooling and because both of these motors require 240 volts to run 120 volts alone will not be able to turn them on let's just see how that looks like so one leg comes in and power just sits there because this is a normally and switch this one on the other hand will actually send power down all of these wires right here so it'll look like that and then right here we also have a crankcase heater that says on the bottom if used and I think I'll just go over that briefly in other wiring diagrams so in this case we'll just go ahead and pretend that there is no crankcase heaters and where I live for that matter I barely ever see crankcase heaters I guess it depends in the area living but anyways no crankcase heater here and there's one more thing that I didn't talk about there's a compressor internal overload switch right here so it's that squiggly switch that means it's a temperature switch if the compressor gets too hot this switch will go up and interrupt the circuit and turn off the power so for example if the fan motor burns out or if the capacitor is dead for it the compressor will run and run and run until it overheats and this little overload will pop open and turn off the power so the compressor doesn't burn itself out and this right here is the symbol for a capacitor either a start for a run capacitor so let's just add that to our list right here so this as a capacitor and even though this may not be technically correct I like to explain it to customers the capacitor I'd like to tell them that the capacitor is like a battery a car battery for an engine on a car same with the capacitor for an air-conditioner it's like a battery for the motor or for the compressor in the unit so if the capacitor is weak or dead then the motor or the compressor might not start or it'll try to start but fail so we have a hundred twenty volts on one side and then our contactor coil gets energized pulls in the plunger and that will close this normally open contact into a closed contact when that plunger pulls in which allows power to go through an energized our fan motor and our compressor on the start windings and the run windings like that and electricity travels at about a hundred seventy four thousand miles an hour so this is pretty much instant once the plunger pushes in everything gets energized all at once like that and even though this motor the fan motor doesn't have a little overload symbol like that notice how it says IO on the fan motor right here same with IO right here the IO stands for internal overload so all fan motors and all compressors do have a internal overload installed in them so if the motor overheats it will shut itself down to prevent burning out and stuff like that so for the 240 volts this wiring diagram is about as simple as it gets I didn't see too many other ones that were this simple this right here the low voltage was a lot more complicated than the high voltage actually so that was the ladder diagram and the connection diagram is gonna be the same exact thing except it's set up differently so let's take a look at a connection diagram right here it says connect to appropriate control circuit having 24 volts so in our case that will be this thin solid line right there this is coming from inside the house from the control board or from the thermostat basically from the transformer that's sending out the 24 volts we got the hot leg and we got the common leg or the common wire usually it's gonna be a 2 wire thermostat wire going outside to the contactor so right here it's a purple wire and a purple wire PU which stands for purple and there's two wire nuts signified right here and that just means that the thermostat wire that comes out of the house usually it's just going to be a white and a red wire and a lot of times those two wires will go into white or nuts and another wire will come out of them which will be the color that goes to the contactor coil so in our case a purple and a purple and if you look at our ladder diagram here's our contactor coil right here which is the same thing as this contactor coil right here so there's the common and here's the hot 24 volts that comes from the Y on the control board and then we have our two hot legs the to 120 hot legs to give us a 240 those are going to be installed by the technician or hooked up by that technician so that goes in stops at the contacts right there that are open whereas this one just goes right through and energizes these two wires and like I said we're not going to go over to crank case heater this time but that's going to be right here the black wire is going to the crank case heater and as you can see there's dashed lines which once again means filled wiring or wiring for factory options which means that it may or may not be installed at the factory and I've noticed that a lot of times when they say that may or may not be that usually means it's not there but anyways power goes here and stops at the L 2 just like it did right here and at L 1 and T 1 we just have that brass bar since it's a single pole contactor and power goes all the way through let's just go ahead and color these wires quite fat so the black wire going to the fan motor is energized and then the black wire going to the compressor so the compressor common is also energized so this would be the same as the latter diagram you know how the power went to one side and it just stands there on standby this is not labeled but let's just go ahead and label it this would be the common here's our windings they normally don't draw windings and motors but this is what it would look like keep in mind that capacitors are always gonna be in series with the start winding always so this will be the start winding and this will be the run winding like that so just like on this picture 120 volts comes and sits at the common on the fan motor and at the compressor so let's say the thermostat calls for cooling the contactor coil will be energized and pulling the plunger and that will allow the power to go through from l2 to t2 these contacts that are normally open will close power goes through and if you trace your wires one will energize the run winding the other one goes to the capacitor which in this case is actually a dual capacitor like most modern units will have and that energizes the common and a jumper wire goes from the common on to the fan motor and then the power goes through the start winding on both the compressor and the fan and respectively goes into harm and fan on the dual run capacitor like that so everything lit up except on a crankcase heater and we just finished tracing the condenser high voltage wiring and one note that I forgot to point out in the beginning it says right here I'll turn it a double pole contactor so some units may have a double pole contactor like it shows right here so it says l1 to t1 will have a break and l2 to t2 will have a break so this side right here if you have a two pole contractor will also have a break right over here which will be a set of normally open contacts and last but not least even though this is filled wiring let's add some green to this chart we got our ground BAM so your ground wire coming from the disconnect whip will go into the screw right there alright guys and that's about it for this wiring diagram so we're done look the first one the other two will go a little faster of course since now I already went over all the basics so here's our second wiring diagram it's also a pretty simple one nothing too complicated and unlike the first one that we looked at this thermostat diagram or the low voltage diagram just has a Y in the C and the contactor coil and that's it so as you saw the other one was way more detailed but just like the last one let's look at the whole picture before we dig into the wiring diagram right here you see the color codes once again everything is abbreviated so BK black BL blue so on so on we have the wiring code what the different wires stand for we have the component code so CM outdoor fan motor IO internal overload lvj B low voltage junction box so on so on junction box is right there and then on the bottom it says controls shown with thermostat and off position so all these wiring diagrams they're showing what they would look like with the thermostat off or the thermostat not calling for cooling but if the thermostat was calling for cooling and the system was running for example these contacts were here from the contactor they would be closed and this switch from the I'll relay and the starting capacitor this switch would be open and pretty much all wiring diagrams are like that they're basically controls shown with thermostat in the off position so the unit is off and any wiring diagram that you're reading and in the bottom here we have three notes in the notes section so note one is right here about the low voltage note two is by the hard start capacitor si this is start assist and note 3 is about the equipment ground so let's just read them all quick the first note says two indoor unit low-voltage terminal block and indoor thermostat so Y and C go to the indoor thermostat or to the indoor unit note number two says start assist factory equipped when required so this is the start assist this would be similar to like an SP p6 hard start kit and then also we have a start capacitor right here and the potential relay right over here and one thing I want to point out is that a unit will never have both of them it will not have a start assist like this and a start capacitor with a potential relay all together it'll either be these or this one alone not both pump together and if you noticed it's in dashed lines that once again means that it may or may not be there and like I said previously most of the time that means it's not there but in our scenario today we will pretend like it is there and everything is wired up will disregard this guy the start assist this one's really simple to wire basically one wire just goes to herm and the other one to common nothing complicated about that but the potential relay is a little bit more complicated so we'll trace the power on that and see how it goes but will disregard this little guy so let's just go ahead and kind of scribble that out won't be using this and just like in the previous wiring diagram we have a one pole contactor and on the side right here it shows you alternate double pole contactor so either/or can be used and it's kind of interesting on this they actually use both so they have a single-pole contactor in this picture but over here on the wiring diagram they actually have a diagram with the two brakes which would be a two pole contactor and then they just have a note right here alternate double pole contactor only so with a single pole of course this would just be a straight line so let's go ahead and begin with the ladder diagram for this one and on the ladder diagram just like last time we have our 240 volts but since this is a two pole contactor both of our hot lakes two to 120 s they give us two 240 volts they stop right there right when they come in from the disconnect and go into the contactor they stop and the 240 volts is just on standby until the thermostat calls for cooling and I previously mentioned that you read wiring diagrams from left to right this time though looks like they put the switch on top of the left circle or the connection point IO so that's the internal overload but it would work the same you know when this temperature switch when the temperature gets higher the switch will go up and interrupt the circuit same with internal overload for the fan but stuff like this constantly reminds me that there's nothing definite in HVAC it seems like there's always more than one way to wire something more than one way to read something to draw something there's always multiple names for a single component so I never claimed to know it all because it seems like there's always going to be some more information that comes up down the road that will change my way of thinking but anyways we have our two hot Lakes coming in and just standing by and our low voltage they didn't give us much to go off of just Y&C and then the contactor coil right here and actually you know what I'll take this opportunity to draw us a really simple thermostat instead of this so here's our transformer right it'll look something like that I know this isn't the most perfect picture but let's say this is our 120 and this is our 24 volts this will be our are the hot leg this will be the comment and we'll pretend that this is a little wiring diagram of our thermostat so this is the are at the thermostat so let's draw our switch 4w this will be the heat here's our little temperature switch the next one will be our switch for cooling which would look like this and will be Y and last but not least we got our switch for fan which is going to be our G on the bottom so that's what that would look like and then all of these will go to some kind of a coil why of course is going to our contactor coil we'll just call that a contactor coil W which is heat that will go through some limits and then to a load like a gas valve coil we'll just call all of these loads and G would go to a fan relay call that one a load as well and then go to comm and I'm trying it all in red but this would normally be blue or a common so this is what a little thermostat would look like right here and this is totally handmade this is my version of a thermostat I guess so let's pretend we have a switch right here this will be our fan switch and I'll go ahead and color half of it in because this fan switch is in the auto position and then we have the on position right here and then on the other side of the thermostat we have another switch and this one is in the middle position because the middle position is off the right position is cool and the left position will be Heat so with the thermostat set to auto and the thermostat set to OFF for heat and cool this is what the little wiring diagram for it would look like so this temperature switch right here if the house is getting too cold this temperature switch will go down boom and then make a connection with W which would turn on your heat if your thermostat is set to the heat mode if your thermostat is set for cooling see how this temperature switch is normally down but if the house heats up this switch will gradually go up until it makes contact with that point right there and then it sends power to your contactor coil turns the air conditioner on and almost all thermostats whenever there's a connection made to Y the fan the blower fan inside of the furnace will automatically come on and with the W whenever there's a connection made to W for heat the fan will always come on after the furnace heats on that's why it's automatic and this switch is normally open but if you switch the switch to on then the switch will close and you're going to have 24 volts constantly going to your fan coil or your fan relay inside of the furnace and that will cause your blower motor to run all the time 24/7 so that's a little picture on our thermostat hopefully that helps paint a little bit of a better picture and let's get back to our main diagram here so we have the furnace Control Board sending us 24 volts to the contactor coil and then the common is coming back to the control board and once this contactor coil is energized that will close our normally open contacts which would look like that and will instantly energize pretty much everything here so let's go ahead and just color everything in because once those contact our contacts close everything gets energized but of course we're not using the SA right the start assist so this I'll just scribble out I'm not gonna use that and we'll go ahead and color in the rest everything gets energized the condenser fan motor the compressor and once everything is lit up like a Christmas tree your air conditioners should be running and one more thing I want to talk about here is the start capacitor with the potential relay this one's a little bit harder to understand but I'll try my best to explain it so power goes into your potential relay which has three terminals on it that are labeled five to one so if you look over here this is our potential relay right here five to one to actually have it in one place here it's an align format so here's our potential relay and there's a normally closed switch right here that's for the start capacitor and then this normally closed switch since it's closed power goes through and powers one side of the capacitor and the power coming in from l2 powers the other side and that energizes our start capacitor the thing about the start capacitor Doe it's only in the circuit in the electrical circuit for like a second or maybe even less to help the compressor only the compressor not the fan the start capacitor is always only for the compressor it's only in the circuit initially in the beginning to help kick-start the capacitor and then it's taken out of the circuit and the way that is done is by back EMF whenever the compressor is up to full speed the back EMF or the current feeding backwards heats up this resistor up on top and once this little coil has enough power going to it it actually pulls the switch this normally closed switched into an open position which takes the start capacitor out of the circuit because now at this point if this is open that start capacitor is only getting 120 volts but it's not getting the other 120 to actually power it up so the start capacitor gets taken out of the circuit but the run capacitor stays in the circuit all the time so while the unit is running the run capacitor always stays in the circuit and I know that my start capacitor and potential relay Expo was probably not the most crystal-clear explanation ever but I don't want to spend this whole video trying to break this down and explain the start capacitor so if you're interested just look up some articles on how a start capacitor works a five-to-one start capacitor and they should break it all down for you and explain how that all works with the back EMF and all of that good stuff so that's it for a ladder diagram on this side this one was pretty simple nothing too complicated on this one either let's go ahead and just call her in this side so right here we have l1 and l2 they don't have any wires going to them but we'll just draw our two hot legs like that or to 120s they give us a 240 and of course on this picture there is no break in the contacts so power goes all the way through but before we keep going I just want to take this opportunity quick to draw a disconnect what a disconnect would look like with the two fuses okay so let's say this is our two hot legs coming from the AC breaker or the circuit panel inside your house so you have 120 volts 120 volts to hot legs right they come into your disconnect and it would look like this right you'd have two switches I call them switches but it's normally a plug or some kind of shut off you know on your disconnect if you pull the plug it disconnects the voltage so this dashed line right here signifies that this is a two pole switch so if you turn one switch off the other switch turns off as well or in our case if it's a disconnect if you pull the plug then this will interrupt a circuit so you have the two hot legs coming into the plug or the switch or the breaker or whatever it is that you have in your disconnect and then most disconnects will have a fuse those cartridge fuses that are usually like 20 or 30 amps and those guys are symbolized by the squiggly looking thing that will be a fuse so anything that looks like this on a wiring diagram that's a fuse and if you see something like this sorry my art is not the best but basically two hooks facing each other like that that would be a circuit breaker so breaker so after diffuses the two hot legs will go into your contactor so l1 and l2 and then the 240 volts will just idle by or be in standby until the thermostat calls for cooling so what we have set up here this is coming from your circuit panel goes into your disconnect this is your plug this is your two fuses there's the contactor that would pretty much be the full picture of this right here this is what goes into l1 and l2 see where this contact is that break that's where this would start I didn't see any condenser wiring diagrams that showed this part of it so I just wanted to draw it quick so you have an idea what that would look like to so that's what that would look like and now let's just continue with our drawing so power goes in this side right here l2 stops at the open contacts whereas the other side powers up your black wires one of them goes to the compressor common the other one goes to five on your potential relay and the last black goes to the common on your condenser fan motor so with the thermostat off l2 is on standby and the other hot leg 120 goes right through and energizes these three points so number five and the potential relay one side of the coil right there the common on the compressor and the common on the fan but once again these motors they need 240 volts to work so nothing is running at this time and when the contactor energizes the contactor coil that means that the thermostat is calling for cooling it got hot in the house then we get power that comes down into the contactor coil which is right here and then it goes back through the common over here and once the contactor coil energizes this closes these contacts or this contact right here between l2 and t2 and sends power through to the rest of the circuit so one wire the red wire goes to common another red wire goes to the run winding and basically pretty much all the other wires that haven't been energized do get energized if the component is in the system so there you have it everything is energized and the unit is running that's what it would look like when it's fully energized and let's go ahead and color our ground green just because I like seeing some green on this chart BAM now it's properly grounded and of course once the compressor is up to speed then this normally closed switch and the potential relay will open up and take the start capacitor out of the circuit so then only the run capacitor to do a run capacitor right here will stay in until the unit shuts off well and that's about it for this wiring diagram let's go on to our last one this one is actually vertical so let's see I don't think I'll be able to fit it all on the screen like I said I went to office Max and blew these up this is like I don't know probably seven times larger than the thing on the inside of the condenser unit there so just like the other ones we have our schematic diagram the latter form on this side even though on this one even though it says it's a ladder diagram notice how the potential relay is all in one spot like that also the dual run capacitor in one spot it's not spread out so this is not exactly a true ladder diagram they're just trying to make it a little bit easier to read so we got our ladder diagram on this side the connection diagram on this side and unlike the other diagrams this one actually has a bunch of notes and information on the bottom side and of course just like I mentioned previously it's always a good idea to look at all the notes and just read through and see if there's any special instructions before you get to looking at the wiring diagram and trying to diagnose your system there's way too much information on here so I'm not going to read it all it has some caution notes like compressor damage may occur if system is overcharged that applies for pretty much every air conditioner it even has a super heat charging table on the right side right here these charging tables are a little bit confusing I would rather use a slide chart or a slide rule or maybe an app on your phone so I rarely ever even look at this I don't use this but if you're somebody that uses charts like this then you would find this helpful although many times by the time we get out there as a technician this chart is completely faded or chewed away by mice or like you see right here scratched off pretty much gone but anyways that's that they have some notes other wiring diagrams that we just looked at only had like three notes this one has 14 and I think what they're doing is actually spelling everything out and not just assuming that you know like the other wiring diagrams are so for example it says right here compressor and fan motor furnish with inherent thermal protection that means that the fan motor and the compressor both have that internal overload and usually all of them will have that but this wiring diagram actually spells that out in the notes and then it has some simple stuff like number 11 says check all electrical connections inside control box for tightness or number 12 do not attempt to operate unit until all service valves have been opened and number 13 is a good one it says do not rapid cycle compressor compressor must be off three minutes to allow pressures to equalize between high and low side before starting so it's bad to rapid-cycle a compressor to turn it on/off on/off on/off and a lot of modern thermostats will have an internal time delay in them so if you turn the thermostat off and back to cooling it'll delay it it'll delay the start of the air conditioner by 5 minutes and that pretty much takes care of the short cycling problem but anyways there's a bunch of good notes in here cooling only procedure that spells out the cooling procedure so for example operate unit at a minimum of 10 minutes before checking charge so you don't want to hook up your gauges and check the charge rate when the unit starts up you gotta allow the time for the pressures to stabilize before you check and there's just a bunch of other good notes that you could find on here and they have a pretty nice legend it's well organized unlike the other charts where they had it in a few different sections this one tends to keep it all in one place except they don't explain what the wire colors are but most of them are pretty self-explanatory BLK stands for black ye al yellow brn is brown of course and so on so on so all good stuff before looking at that I would glance through this kind of read through it and make sure there's no special notes that you're missing but now that we're done with all the notes let's move on to the actual wiring diagrams and like always we'll start at the latter form and then move on to the connection diagram and see if there's anything interesting here okay so here's our external power supply that gets us to 24 volts the transformer so our transformer sends 24 volts to our on the thermostat terminal strip on the control board actually there's some transformers that have RW c g and y on the transformer itself that's kind of old dull going away but there are some transformers out there like that so we have 24 volts going to our and then of course we have our Commons all hooked up to C from the indoor fan relay from the liquid line solenoid valve and from our little logic control board or basically our little circuit bored and then G right over here of course this would only be energized if we set our fan the thermostat fan setting to on instead of Auto then that would send power down to our indoor fan relay and turn on our blower motor in the furnace and before we continue let's just point out the few new components that we see on this wiring diagram that we did not see on the previous two so on this one we actually have the HP S DTS and LPS on our low voltage side this is the high pressure switch discharge temperature switch and then the low pressure switch along with the liquid line solenoid valve we didn't see any of these in our previous wiring diagrams and the liquid line solenoid valve it's just there to basically prevent refrigerant from flowing while the unit is off these liquid line solenoid valves are pretty rare or at least in my area they are I practically never see liquid line solenoid valves on condenser units and the discharge temperature switch is also pretty rare I practically never see those either and the purpose of this switch is pretty much the same as the high pressure switch except it's activated by temperature so if the temperature of the freon pipe the discharge line is getting too hot then this thing will go up right here and once the temperatures gets too high and interrupt the circuit and turn off the power to the unit and when I say turn off the power to the unit that means that when this thing goes up the closed contact if your unit is running the plunger will go up on the contactor and then that will open up and interrupt the 240 volts that is feeding the unit and turn everything off and as you can see all of these switches are normally closed so in a normally operating system all of these switches are normally closed all the time unless there is a problem that's the only time when they open up and another new component is this little board right here it says CTD which stands for a compressor time delay board and the purpose of this little control board is to prevent the compressor from short cycling like we talked about previously and this little symbol right here is the symbol for our time delay switch and I'm not going to go into the science of exactly how this works it's a pretty simple control board it basically delays the start of the compressor by like five minutes until it closes back up and allows the power to go through so let's continue with our tracing when the thermostat is calling for cooling why gets power it gets 24 volts and here's the symbol for a wire nut and as you can see there's two paths that the wire can take they can either go here and go through all these switches or it can go up here and go to the contactor coil but notice how it says note 14 on top of this wire right here and note 14 says this wire not present if HPS LPS DTS or CTD are used which basically means that if your unit has this one this one this one or this one at least one of these switches or this little control board this wire will not be present but if your model does not have any of these switches then this is the wire that you would go by and in this particular wiring diagram we'll just say that there is no liquid line solenoid so let's scratch that out and like I was saying this is very rare at least in my area don't see these a lot but we'll keep all of these in the circuit we do see the high pressure switch and the low pressure switch quite a bit and of course since they are in our system this top wire is not present so the 24 volts that comes from Y will go to the high pressure switch out of the high pressure switch into a wire nut which connects to another wire which goes to the dts discharge temperature switch goes into the switch comes out of it then goes into the low pressure switch and of course if any one of these is open then the power can't go through so what's the power the 24 volts goes through each of these switches it goes into the control board if the time delay switch is closed then the power goes through and energizes the contactor coil right there and since we haven't been doing any kind of troubleshooting scenarios let's just do one quick on this one so the Y is sending out 24 volts right 24 volts and I mentioned previously that ladder diagrams are mainly used for troubleshooting I just want to show you how that would look like on this one right here so we have 24 volts coming in from our Y this will be our common basically any of the white wires or any of the wires coming out the other side of the component will be our common wire if you're not sure which wires are the common wire then you can look on your connection diagram and see what color wires are which so if you see right here we have the common coming from the 24 volt side of the transformer that goes into the contactor coil and then the 2 wires that hook up into this wire nut are black and brown so the black wire and the brown wire is going to be your neutral wires or you can just put your meter lead if you're checking it with the meter right on to this point right here on this side of the contactor coil so let's say you have 24 volts right you're checking with your meter you put your meter lead right here one meter lead goes here and you stick your other meter lead into this wire knot right here and you measure 24 volts so between this point and this point your meter is showing you that you have 24 volts yet for some reason your contactor is not pulling in that means that either one of these switches is open or the time delay switch is open and an easy way to check that is to just go down the line you will keep one meter lead on the contactor coil common and just start checking it all these points and they're not going to be actual terminals they're probably going to be wires going into wire nuts and that can be seen on the connection diagram so see how the blue wire comes into the high pressure switch blue wire comes out of it and then it connects into a black wire usually through a wire nut it goes into the discharge temps which comes out as a black wire goes into a wire nut and comes out as a yellow wire goes to the low pressure switch and then the yellow wire goes into that control board so let's get back to troubleshooting you still have your meter lead right here and you check from here to one side of the high pressure switch you have 24 volts you check it to the other side you still have 24 volts you check it to this side 24 volts and then you put your meter lead here you get 24 volts but when you put your meter lead on the other side of the low-pressure switch all the sudden you're getting zero volts if this low-pressure switch was actually open let's say it was right here in the open position and you put one meter lead here and the other meter lead here this is no longer a closed circuit now you're gonna have 24 volts showing up on your meter and in our example right here the time delay switch is closed so if you go from the other side of the low-pressure switch to the common of the contactor coil you'll still be reading zero volts and I'm kind of side tracking now this is taking a little longer to explain maybe this is a topic for a whole other video but basically your contactor coil should be getting 24 volts at the coil so if you put one meter lead on one side of the coil the other meter lead on to other you should have 24 volts if 24 volts is not there that means somewhere along the line between Y and the hot side of the contactors coil something is interrupting that circuit or it may simply mean that either the thermostat or control board is defective and it's not sending voltage the 24 volts into the Y but anyways that's our low voltage circuit let's switch over to the high voltage circuit now we got our l2 which is field wired that goes into one side of the contactor l1 goes into the other and just because I love coloring grounds will color our chassis ground boom looks like that I feel happy we can continue and actually let's just sidetrack very briefly once again let's say you put your meter lead right here and your other meter lead right here and you're checking voltage with everything on with the power on and with your 2 meter leads on there you're only getting a hundred twenty volts even though this is too hot legs usually if everything is working correctly you should be getting 240 volts not 120 so in that case what do you think can be wrong most likely you either have a burnt or broken wire in the disconnect or if your disconnect has those cartridge fuses in them one of those fuses blew just for one of the legs but the other fuse is good so you're getting a hundred twenty volts instead of 240 once you replace that fuse then you're gonna get your 240 volts back again and since we went over to start capacitor in our last wiring diagram we'll just cross out the potential relay since it's optional on this wiring diagram everything that has a star on it that basically means look in the notes and in the notes that says that this is optional it may or may not be there so a no start capacitor and this one but in that case we might as well just use the start assist which is this right here we'll go ahead and leave that in the circuit and once again we're going with a one pole contactor instead of a two pole contactor so the l2 sends the power right through and one side of the circuit is always going to be hot that's what it'll look like right there and then almost all wiring diagrams I know this sounds kind of weird but the common on the dual of run capacitor goes to the run winding on the compressor the common on the compressor but the run winding the common is just a common point for the compressor and for the capacitor so the common from the capacitor is hooked up to the l2 side of the contactor whereas the common from the compressor is hooked up to the l1 side of the contactor so let's say that our thermostat is calling for cooling and we have no problems here so the coil is energized and these normally open contacts get closed and now power can instantly go through it goes through energizes the other side of the compressor which powers up the start and run windings power also goes into the outdoor fan motor energizes the windings goes to the fan side of the capacitor also over here goes to the herm the compressor goes to the herm side of the capacitor which also energizes the other side of our start thermistor and this is pretty much a start assist so it's only in the circuit for maybe a second until the compressor is up to speed and then this little resistor heats up and then it opens up and interrupts the circuit and takes this start assist the start capacitor out of the circuit and with everything energized the unit works like a champ and one last thing that we haven't covered in any of our wiring diagrams is the crank case heater which is optional a lot of units won't have them but some do and the way that the crank case works just briefly is this heater will only come on if the unit is off and if this thermostat is closed so if it's cold enough outside this little switch will drop down and then close this circuit and allow the current to go through and then up here we have a resistor that heats up and basically heats up the crank case on the compressor so as you can see this is almost like a bypass that goes over to break in the contactor so regardless there's power or not this thing is wired in so it bypasses it and the way it works is when this switch closes when there's a call for cooling and the thermostat energizes the contactor coil when this switch closes since electricity is lazy whatever does switch closes electricity will choose the path of least resistance which is this pretty much a straight wire over the resistor and to thermostat up on top so once there is a call for cooling the electrical path will go this way instead of going through the crankcase heater so like I said previously the crankcase heater only works when the unit is on and if it's cold enough outside where this thermostat will close and allow the power to go through and the way that works is simply because it's wired to go around the break in the contactor so unlike the rest of the components the crankcase heater pretty much always has 240 volt access to it so you got the l2 coming in from one side stops right here there's a break that prevents everything else from coming on but the crankcase heater is wired around that normally open contact to enable it to turn on when it's cold outside so anyway we're done with the ladder diagram let's go take a look at the connection diagram and let's color some stuff green over here - there's the chassis ground here's the equipment ground look at all this nice green color very good so if our thermostat is calling for cooling 24 volts will go down why and the liquid line solenoid we're not going to mess with will cross that out and then power will go down to blue wires from the wire nut and just like note 14 said remember this only applies if none of those switches are in this model of the air conditioner or the condenser unit so we'll cross that wire out so from Y it goes into the high pressure switch then into the discharge temperature switch and then to the low pressure switch and then from there it goes to the logic or a little control board timed lay board and goes out into the violet colored wire and hooks up to the hot side of the contactor coil and then the common side goes out and goes to the common on the control board just like this and this logic part on the compressor time-delay board actually uses energy so it does need a common so the common as you can see it hooks up right to the other side of the contactor coil where the common is and then it goes back the same path into the common on the 24 volt side of the transformer and let's just sidetrack for a second here let's say that you don't have a multimeter with you and your contactor is not closing and you suspect that this compressor time delay board is the culprit so if you don't have a meter to check voltages with what you could do is put a jumper either little alligator jumper wires or just some piece of wire or take the connector that goes into t1 off of it and take the connector that goes to t2 and then you can wire not those two together or somehow connect them together and that will be an easy test to see if it's the board that's bad or not and I've seen quite a few of these time delay boards go bad where it'll be stuck open and it won't let the power through and you're sitting there waiting for 10 15 minutes and no matter how long you wait this thing doesn't close and doesn't let the power through and if you jumper this board out then everything comes on in that case you know that the problem is your control board and you can do the same thing with the low pressure switch if you think that the low pressure switch is the problem let's say it's stuck in the open position you could disconnect the wires from either side of the low pressure switch and pretty much bypass it so it would come out of the discharge temperature switch and then go straight to t1 and if everything turns on then you know that the problem is the low pressure switch or maybe you early are low on refrigerant and this thing was opening up so much times that it just eventually got stuck in the open position and one last thing I want to point out is if you're doing this jumper method to test things you can only jumper switches if you jumper a load a resistor or a winding or some coil that will be a direct short and you're gonna pop some fuse in the best-case scenario or if there's no fuse you're going to start burning out components so for example you can jumper t1 to t2 because that's a switch but you can't jumper out the logic part of the board so you can't put a jumper between t1 and t3 because that would be connecting the 24 volt hot directly to the common which will give you a direct short and since that part is important let me just stress it one more time any kind of switch you can bypass it for testing purposes so a normal switch or maybe it's a pressure switch or one of those temperature switches time delay switches you can bypass switches all day long and it's okay of course this should only be done for testing purposes you should not leave any switches bypassed because they're there for a reason so you can bypass switches but you cannot bypass any loads or resistors or any windings or coils because that would give you a direct short so I just wanted to stress that point after I explain to somebody how to jump or something I don't want them to go jump or something and short something out and we decided that we're not going to use the start capacitor on this wiring diagram so this gets crossed out we're not going to use the wires going to it either and now let's go ahead and quickly trace the wires on the hot side so here we have l1 and l2 coming in by the way whenever you're looking at a connection diagram on a latter form of course you're looking from the top where l1 and l2 comes in whenever you're looking at connection diagram a good place to start is to look for the l1 and l2 or for the power supply so you're always going to start from there for a high voltage and then start tracing from that way so you have l1 and l2 coming in to give us a 240 volts we have normally open contacts here so the voltage stops there and is on standby and it's actually pretty warm outside so our crankcase heater is not turning on it's just kind of on standby as well and since here we have a straight bar one of the hot legs goes right through in the 120 and energizes one side of all of our high voltage components and when the thermostat calls for cooling this normally open contact closes up and allows power to go through so power goes in and energizes the other side of the compressor the fan motor and that start capacitor were to start assist that only stays in the circuit for a second or two until the compressor is up to speed so everything else gets energized and starts running like a champion so let's say that while the unit is running it's running running running and for some reason the outdoor fan motor starts to seize up and the fan motor just stops working it turns off so it still has power but the fan motor stops spinning in that case the compressor will keep running running running and the pressures are going to build up and build up and since pressures correlate to temperatures the higher the pressure the higher the temperature eventually it'll get too hot and this little guy right here the internal overload will pop open and interrupt the circuit which will turn off our compressor and for my experience whenever these internal overloads do pop open they take a very long time to cool off and close back up that's why sometimes some technicians will actually take a hose in water and actually start watering down the compressor to cool it off so that thing closes down because there are times where you replace the capacitor or you already have enough time to replace the whole fan motor and this thing still did not reset and the compressor is not turning on okay so we're at our final unit now and if you look at the wiring diagram first of all you wanna look for the power goes into so right here we have 208 230 power supply this is where your two hot legs come in 120 120 which gives you a 230 240 volts and the dashed lines of course means that it's filled wired so in our case l1 and l2 this 230 volt power supply is going to be coming from and most houses it'll be disconnects so here's the disconnect and here's the metal whip and it goes right into our air conditioner and here are the two wires that come out from it this is l1 and l2 and then you also have a ground wire that just gets attached to the chassis and the air conditioner so this is our main power supply right here going in and then we also have this cord right here this is going to be our thermostat wire which goes into here goes into wire nuts and from here it goes to either side of the contactor coil this is going to be our 24 volts so on the wiring diagram right here you got l1 l2 goes into one side of the contactor as you can see and here is our contactor coil with that little load symbol right there so when the thermostat calls for cooling power is sent through Y goes through the high pressure switch then the low pressure switch and the DTS which in our case means discharge temps which most air conditioners will not have that in fact this unit that we're looking at right now doesn't have the HP S or two LPs either so in our case it just goes straight doesn't have a little compressor time board either the time delay it goes straight to one side of the contactor coil and then common from the furnace control board goes to the other side of the contactor coil so as you can see the wiring diagram is a lot more confusing than what we actually have in the unit in the unit we just have two wires coming from inside from Y and C under the thermostat strip on the control board it goes straight out right into the contact but on the wiring diagram you have all this mess all the stuff that's in series with it or on the connection diagram you know you got all this stuff that's in line with it and keep in mind that carrier uses this wiring diagram for many of their different model air conditioners so they have the same wiring diagram for a bunch of different models that's why they have this note here that says maybe factory installed so that means it may or may not be there so a lot of these components on the wiring diagram are actually not going to be in your unit so after power is applied to the contactor coil right here the normally open contacts on the contactor that little plunger gets pulled in and power goes through on this side of the contactor so if we look at our contactor right here see how we just have a straight bar that means power is constantly on you have 120 volts always sitting there so in terms of the wiring diagram you have l2 that comes in so one side of the compressor and the fan the run windings are always going to have 120 volts just sitting there and as you can see in the wiring diagram 120 volts also goes to the common on the capacitor so you have 120 volts just sitting there when the contactor coil closes and sends power through that sends power to the other side of the compressor and the fan and turns both of them on and on the ladder diagram it doesn't show you what colors the wires are but on the connection diagram it does so for example if we look at a compressor which is right here the compressor has a blue a black and a yellow wire coming out of it and connecting to our capacitor and contactor relay so let's see what this looks like on the unit here are my wires that come out from the compressor here's the yellow here's the black and here's the blue so one of the yellows goes to the contactor the black goes to the other side and the blue goes to the capacitor so if you look on the connection diagram we got our yellow it goes to one side of the contactor where it has the straight bar no plunger so if we look at the contactor here's that yellow wire goes to the contactor that is straight 120 always there then we look at the black wire trace it over that goes over 221 on to other side of the contactor and as you can see there's the wire from my compressor going to the other side and the last wire which is the blue goes from the start winding and the compressor and ends up on H or herm on the capacitor so here's the blue wire and indeed it goes to her on the dual capacitor and the last thing we have is the condenser fan motor on this unit we got a yellow wire coming out of it a black and a brown so the brown goes to the fan on the capacitor the black goes to one side of the contactor and the yellow goes to the other side of the contactor on 23 so let's take a look at that the yellow wire from the fan I already traced them ahead of time is actually going to be right here it goes to one side of the contactor the black coming from the fan is this one right here it goes to the other side and then the brown like we saw in the diagram goes to the fan under dual run capacitor and that is actually all the components that this unit has so really this unit all it has is the contactor the capacitor the compressor and the condenser fan motor that doesn't have the rest of the stuff the little control board there's no fan delay board there's no compressor delay board there's no low pressure switch high pressure switch there's no solenoid valves there's no discharge temperature switches there's no crankcase heater on this one you don't have a hard start kit or a start capacitor with the potential relay all that stuff is missing on this one so just one more time just because the wiring diagram is crowded with a bunch of components that does not mean the the air-conditioner you're working on will actually have all these things oh no it looks like I forgot one read whiter and that's the are the 24 volts coming from the transformer to the are under thermostat stripped ha there you go now we're complete well guys and that's all I had actually for all the wiring diagrams this took a lot longer than I thought but I hope you got a lot of useful stuff out of it a lot of good information you learned a little bit more about how to read diagrams what the different components mean and all that kind of stuff as always thank you so much for watching this video don't forget to mash that like button on the way out and don't forget to visit the comment section in the comment section below under the video cuz a lot of times they have a lot of good conversations going there and a lot of the content shared there is almost as good as the stuff shared in the video itself so make sure to check that out maybe leave a comment of your own tell us what you thought of this video if you saw any mistakes that I did perhaps of course the longer you talked the more chances you have for making mistakes let us know in the comments below and I will stand corrected well guys until next time peace and if you're still here and not in the comments section below let me ask you something have you ever watched that cartoon how to tame your own dragon or at least heard of it or seen it in the stores allow me to show you just where they got that idea by taming a dragon of my own as you can see in this video I've already located the dragon that I wish to tame and now all that's left is persuasion I must persuade this little dragon that my finger is a better purchasing post and that little branch that he's sitting at nice dragon successfully persuaded now I've tamed two dragons at once before let's see if I can do it again ah unfortunately those two dragons were incompatible and since practice makes perfect let's take a few more so there you go I got another dragon unfortunately my phone camera is not focusing on this little dragon so you can't see the fine details but he's right there wings flapping in the wind and when I'm done hanging out with my dragon I go to put him back in the branch but after my finger that branch is not that interesting anymore and by now I got some good practice so check out how good my persuasion skills got BAM another dragon tamed you

Channel: Word of Advice TV

Views: 264,072

Rating: 4.9247079 out of 5

Keywords: how to read condenser wiring diagram, how to read condenser unit wiring, how to read condenser schematic, how to read ac diagram, how to read ac wiring diagram, how to read air conditioner wiring diagram, how to read air conditioner diagram, ac wiring diagram, air conditioner wiring diagram, ac unit wiring diagram, ac condenser wiring diagram, how to read ac schematic, how to read air conditioner schematic, word of advice tv, wiring diagram

Id: I-sB4GIlbl4

Length: 85min 47sec (5147 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 02 2019