HOW TO TURBO YOUR CIVIC - EVERYTHING I'VE LEARNT D16 CIVIC EBAY BUILD

g'day youtube turbo tristan here and in today's video i'm just going to show you how i did everything on my turbocharged d16 honda civic welcome back to the channel if you're new which most of you are let's be honest i've picked up a whole bunch of subscribers in the last month or two you will know that i have a turbocharged d16 ek honda civic sedan and i've been getting asked tons and tons of questions about how i did things why i did things what i used and how i did it so i'm going to answer a whole bunch of those questions and show you some up close detailed shots of what i've got in there and and why i chose that and why it works so for those of you that are new i picked this civic up around about eight months ago for a thousand dollars australian 100 stock standard 330 000 kilometers one owner uh grand pa spec it was originally green color which i'm not a fan of fairly tidy car the interior was perfect outside had all the traditional shopping trolley dents and things on it and i went to work immediately i sanded the car back fixed any bodywork i replaced the guards the headlights the front bumper repaired the rear bumper sanded the whole car back painted it myself with rattle cans not just any rattle cans i did use two pack paint which is a lot harder wearing and gives you a much stronger glossier finish dries and hardens which is great the only mistake i made was i didn't put any clear coat over that it's absolutely filthy now but there's plenty of videos showing how i did that i might put a link up here for some of my painting videos but i got the car painted repaired registered on the road uh i fitted some of the cheapest ebay coil overs i could find there were 300 for the fully adjustable set i got me a set of copy rims for that jdm style i took the car to a track day at sandown raceway i'll put another link for that video up here the car went well perfectly it did one minute 45 it was really really slow i managed to overtake some subaru wrx all-wheel drive turbos don't ask me how maybe they were just scared and i have i didn't really care too much about this one so i pushed it a bit harder but i was overtaking them on the corners and the straights so great handling car but as we all know the d16 makes zero power so i went ahead and started to turbo charge it so i bought a manifold from ebay which was a hundred dollars i bought a turbo from ebay which is a garrett gt 2871r chinese copy and that one was 165 dollars and i went to work ripping out the air conditioning putting that in i've put 100 3 core radiator alloy radiator with a thermo fan i put that on there a new exhaust had to get that made i got v band clamps here and a new down pipe made the car runs a 200 cell high flow cap two and a half inch exhaust all the way back with one resonator at the back from there i got a chinese intercooler kit the intercooler was a hundred dollars the piping kit was 140 i had to buy some extra silicon joiners i had to get pipes lengthened and shortened things rolled so it wasn't a simple exercise i did everything the hard way factory throttle body factory intake factory engine nothing on that's changed i had to get some fittings welded on for the oil catch can which lives over where the battery goes the battery is now in the boot of the car so i'll just explain why i didn't buy one of the ebay turbo kits i chose to do it myself because one i thought i could do it cheaper two i thought those parts were a bit outdated i didn't want to run a cheapo wastegate or a cheapo blowoff valve i didn't want to run a t3 t4 turbo which has quite a large exhaust housing and very laggy doesn't come on boost till five or six thousand rpm so i went with the t28 this is normally used for a two liter engine on like a nissan sr20 the turbo here is the gt2871r commonly known as a disco potato it's got the three inch intake good for around 400 to 450 horsepower way more than we would need but it actually comes on boost at around 3000 rpm which is perfect a internal wastegate which simplifies things i don't have to run extra boost controllers or vacuum lines so one less hassle to worry about less plumbing less pipe work so the internal wastegated turbo for this small engine i thought was a perfect match it's currently running 14 psi on e85 now although 14 psi is not a huge amount of boost this is a very old engine it's 22 years old it's got 330 000 kilometers on it and i wanted to make sure it was going to do that reliably and safe so the e85 helps with a higher octane fuel it's 108 octane or thereabouts and it helps with knocking pinging detonation and all those types of things so it's just a safer combo to run that fuel where it's available if i didn't have the option of running e85 i'd probably only run about 10 psi on the car just to keep everything at a safe level until i build this engine i picked up this engine for 50 bucks it's a standard d16y4 i've already clearanced the block where the turbo is going to sit nice and snug up there because i bought a crappy manifold that sits too close to the block i was also given for free the vtec head so this is the vtec head i'm going to just run the cam and the lifters so there's a locking pin that goes through there and locks these three lifters together so it's always on vtec so here you can see the vtec cam that's the middle one there much higher so these are your exhaust cam lobes and then when it's not on vtec normally it would run on these small ones for your intake valves then on vtec it runs off the big one i'm going to run it on the big one at all times so that's going to be a great addition to my motor you definitely have to lose your air conditioning there's no two ways about it when you're doing a turbo kit there are some kits that let you keep it yeah so with the ebay turbo kit the turbo faces the other way right up against the chassis rail you can't really fit an air filter on there the exhaust they give you is great it just tucks under the factory spot and bolts up to your factory exhaust but really if you're going to turbo your car you need to do a better flowing exhaust all the way through anyway so you really got to spend money on exhaust stuff anyway so i might as well just do it all once and do it properly having said that i'll probably get that remade in the future another thing the ebay turbo kits don't come with is upgraded fuel injectors upgraded fuel pressure regulator upgraded fuel lines fuel rail fuel pump or engine management and we'll talk about that in a second the ebay turbo kits aren't water cooled i've got mine water cooled i've just jumped off these fittings that were already there in the car and they're just water return lines which are for the throttle body there so that's what i've got running my water lines this is a track car so it's going to be cooling the turbo the oil feed line is lubricating the turbo and then you've got to put the drain plug in a bit hard to see but there's a drain plug down there as well so yeah i really wanted to run the water lines which don't come in the ebay kit i'm running 1150cc raceworks fuel injectors pretty overkill for this size motor but eventually when we build the other other engine i'm going to turn it up a lot more as well so you know they'll be perfect when that happens one thing i found is i'm using the standard fuel rail i've tapped out where the standard regulator was and i've added a high pressure adjustable sas you can use any brand i would rather use a more reputable brand myself but i didn't have the money but i got this one for 79 it's a rising rate fuel pressure regulator which means you set your fuel pressure to around about 50 psi every psi of boost that the turbo makes it raises your fuel pressure by one psi that way you're never losing any fuel pressure in the fuel rail so great investment helps protect everything the last thing you want is your engine leaning out can be over here can be over there can be anywhere it can be at the back of the car if you want to i just put it nice and close keep the runners short so what i did is i tapped out the original alloy fuel rail with a 1 8 npt brass barbed fitting some six mil efi hose straight to the reg regulates the pressure any excess is going to go back to the tank via the fuel line and using the original hard lines down there you just hook up the vacuum line straight to the intake manifold and you're good to go so one issue i found was that higher in the rpm with all the standard fuel lines we're actually losing fuel pressure and the computer was having to compensate by adding a lot more fuel in to try and keep the car from running lean which was still running lean anyway so what i decided to do was free up the restrict i got rid of the factory banjo fitting that went here with a funny little bolt and some kind of a funny regulator thing on top of that or a pressure valve and i replaced the line with another race works 90 degree elbow straight out of here and then straight into there and i found instantly like that the fuel pressure picked up by 10 psi all the way across the revs so i had to then use the fuel pressure regulator and turn it back down to 50 psi now for anyone playing at home this fitting that goes in here is a 12 millimeter by 1.25 male to male fitting and then you just use the dash 6 elbows or fittings from there to there now you don't have to use the fancy fittings you could use just brass fittings that you could find at bunnings or home depot or lowe's or wherever you get your hardware stuff you'll probably find them or your auto parts retailer but i decided to use some nice fancy fittings makes everything look nice and it all matches the theme of the engine bay okay so this is the factory fuel rail here's the factory fuel pressure regulator there's just two bolts to undo and then that pulls right off and then you tap that out to a 1 8 npt the fuel has to come through this little hole here in the banjo go around in a circle find its way up past this bolt and then go through these little holes here and past all of that and then down the eye of this to fill your fuel rail get rid of that that that and that and you free up a hell of a lot more fuel pressure and this flows quite nicely so that brings me to the final piece of the puzzle and that's engine management now there's a lot of mixed reviews on this and people like to do different things and say you can run the standard ecu up to a certain psi i've tried all of that the factory ecu is the p2k two plug rubbish ecu it's locked in there's nothing you can do you can't chip it you can't add a hon data you can't do anything of the sort to this ecu it's totally useless in america the cars the exact same car with the steering wheel on the other side of the car uses a totally different wiring harness this wiring harness is 1998 it's 22 years old it works fine there's nothing wrong with it at the moment honda's have really good wiring the solution that a lot of people told me to do was to rip out all of this wiring get a harness from an older model civic like an eg from 1995 put that in here change all of the plugs over and then run a p28 or a p70 or there's a couple of different ones and then chip it run a hon data off you go cooking with gas high boost happy days the problem with that as opposed to you know our american cousins is hon data's over here to have that installed into the car the problem with the honda for australian users is you need to change all of the wiring change all of the plugs swap that out so there's you know five six hundred dollars worth of wiring and it's old second hand then you've got to buy a p28 ecu which are anywhere from 100 to 300 i was lucky i found one at a junkyard for 30 bucks you then need to take that p28 ecu to a hondata dealer they need to pull it apart put the chip in yes you can do it yourself each to their own put the chip in to do that it's going to cost you around about 900 australian and then you need to then have it in the car running and tuned a dyno tune for a full day on the dyno here in australia is about fifteen hundred dollars there you go you've put old wiring in your car old plugs old ecu that may or may not be fried you've spent two and a half thousand dollars on getting the thing tuned and it's limited in the way of how many people can actually tune it in the country in australia there's probably 20 or 30 people that know how to tune a hon data that's not much in a country with 25 million people and then lastly the thing about hondata is it's locked to that exact car you can't take that ecu and put in a different car it's just not work it has to be the exact same setup same wiring all that sort of thing i'm not crapping on honda they're an awesome ecu anyone that's got one loves it i love them i subscribe to pfi i watch brent from pfi tune them all day long he loves them he gets fantastic results they're an awesome ecu lots and lots of features in australia it's a lot more complicated than that so that's why i decided that i would bite the bullet and spend the bickies on a haltech so here's my haltech setup down here i'm running an elite 1500 there's my cable goes to my ecu i've got plenty of extra ports for extra sensors it comes with a built-in map sensor which can run up to 29 psi i've had to get a jumper harness made that just plugs in i've used out of a spare p2k ecu i just hacked out the plug and got all the haltech wires to make a little jumper harness straight onto there it is a bit of an expense the ecu was around about two thousand dollars plus wiring plus tuning but the beauty of this is i can use this in any of my cars in the future i can just unplug it with two plugs and then plug it straight in and upload a map haltech have heaps of maps for heaps of different cars and all different brands not just honda's and that's why i decided to go that way the other thing is it has a learning mode i've got a wideband sensor put in there and i was able to get the car started running through the guys remotely over the phone from haltech they were happy to help out didn't cost me anything they put the car into a learning mode i was able to drive it to the service station or the gas station and fill it up with e85 and push a button on the ecu and everything switched over and re-tuned itself and then it was just a matter of fine-tuning the ecu now i'm going to mount all of that up behind here so it's all out of the way and out of the foot well but i'll do that when i can be bothered now with the ecu and with tuning you definitely need to upgrade to a wideband o2 sensor the reason why you do that is because it measures a wideband of your air fuel ratio so anything from zero parts fuel to 100 parts air to 100 parts air and zero parts fuel so anywhere in between it will measure it'll tell the computer what it's reading and it's live it's instant and it's always changing and it will make the computer do the adjustments for the car so you don't lean out you don't run rich and the car drives nice so it's a really really great feature also if you're running ethanol it also can tell the difference and sort all that stuff out for you as well so there's my wideband sensor down there just plugs in here i've cable tied it up out of the road if and when i do a new exhaust i'll mount that in a better spot and then straight through the firewall plugs into the haltech so hopefully you get an idea of what i'm doing with this car the future projects of the 50 engine rebuild which is going to be a fully forged engine and i'm hopefully going to turn that up to close to 400 horsepower the vtec head i've got another manifold down there which i'm going to get customized i'm going to put all new fittings on that simplify it and then get that painted and powder coated i've replaced my clutch i've got a 200 clutch from america that's a button clutch with a light and flywheel it's a to drive on but it handles the power it doesn't slip at all and loves getting punished just to recap things you need to know when turboing your d series is you need a better fuel system you need to free up all the restrictions in the lines you need to upgrade the injector size you need to add a rising rate fuel pressure regulator and most importantly you need to add a high flow fuel pump that's capable of all the different types of fuels unleaded e85 i'll put a link up here for a video of how to install a aftermarket fuel pump into your civic and those are the things that they don't tell you that don't come with the kit that you buy off ebay you also need to upgrade your ecu whether you live in america and it's really cheap and easy and cost you a thousand dollars done to get it honda to put in or whether you're in another country and you need to think about a different ecu there's hundreds on the market depends on your budget and then you'll need to get that tuned and wired in and changed out you'll need to think about your exhaust you'll need to think about your plumbing screamer pipes are awesome they sound excellent on single turbo rb 26s which i've owned check right back at the start of my videos you'll hear my 700 horsepower r33 gtr open the wastegate sounds awesome not so much on a single cam d16 running seven psi sounds pretty junk to me so you don't really need an external wastegate on your d16 single cam if a hose blows off melts you don't put it on right you run 100 psi through the engine and explode your motor then it's just a waste of time so that's why i went with the internal gated turbo but lastly thanks for subscribing thanks for tuning in make sure that you do like and do subscribe if you haven't already i've noticed through youtube statistics that half the people that watch my videos aren't subscribed so if you're watching this make sure you subscribe it really helps the channel grow and that means i can hopefully grow to a larger audience and start spending more money on my car and making it go a lot faster and bringing you more content when i started this project i promised there would be an all-wheel drive k-swap big powered big turbo gtr killer and that is on its way i assure you it's coming but we're going to get this one tested at the track we're going to try and blow it up we're going to build this d series we're going to put the vtec head on and we're going to turn the boost right up on this one hopefully make 400 horsepower make sure you go back and watch all of my videos on the build everything's in much more detail than this video don't be shy if you do have any questions drop them in the comments below i answer every single comment but thanks for watching and we'll see you later

Channel: TURBOTRISTAN

Views: 5,174

Rating: 4.9790578 out of 5

Keywords: honda, civic, ek sedan, ek civic, kswap, k24 turbo, k20, boost, haltech, boosted, racing, godzilla, circuit, dyno, do it yourself, vtec yo, jdm, vtec, k24a2, k20a, fk8, type r, sedan, civic race car, jdm 90s budget sedan sleeper, cheap ricer build, k24 turbo civic ek, jdm project car build, tuners vs supercars, JDM build project, honda civic build project, awd civic vs gtr, d16y turbo, D16Y4, D16Y TURBO, GT2871 TURBO, TURBO 1.6l HONDA, e85, tuning, 14psi, ebay build, ebay turbo kit, ebay turbo

Id: 4FL2SBTuZaY

Length: 20min 47sec (1247 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 18 2020