How To Tile A Shower - Start To Finish Walls

in this video i'm going to show you how to tie a shower step by step start to finish and if you're new to this channel my name is josh channels it's all about booty iron house saving ton of money so be sure to subscribe ring that bell so you can notification airtime release new video and hammer that like button for me that's all that's returned for making this video so we got a lot to do today so let's get started the most important part the tiling your shower is planning out your shower so you need to decide which type of tiles you want what design you want and what layout you want so as far as what type of tiles you want you need to decide do you want porcelain tiles ceramic tiles travertine that's all up to you and as far as what design you want do you want to have a decorative strip in the middle a decorative strip going vertical whatever you want you need to decide that and if you want shelving or not most people do and do you want to do a build in that is a cutout that's inside the tile shower and as far as what layout do you want do you want to have your two foot tiles running vertical do you want two foot tiles running horizontal do you want to just use straight square 12 inch tiles and that is all up to what you want in your tile shower the layout my wife and i decided to do in this tile shower is to take 24 inch tiles and run them horizontally staggered up the walls and then we're gonna have a decorative strip about six foot high so the first thing i'm going to do is come down here to the bottom and we're going to measure this tile it's exactly how wide it is so we got 11 and a quarter inch wide so with that being said we know that we want at least an eighth inch gap down here off the bottom of the shower pan and we want to use an eighth inch space between each towel as we run them so we need to measure up 12 inches and make a mark so now that i got 12 inches marked on the wall i'm going to take a level and level a line across this wall now that we got our level line on the wall it's time to take a straight board and screw it to the wall that's flush with that line and that's going to give us a perfectly level first row and the reason why i don't want to start off the shower pan is because not every shower pan is level and if you watch my video of me installing the shower pan in the top right hand corner of the screen you'll notice that i did i'm going to show you how most of the time you're going to have to start your first row of tile and also you want to start on the back of the shower because you don't want to start on the walls on the sides first because you're going to see a grout joint in each corner when you step into the shower now i'm just going to line this board up flush with that line and screw it right to the wall as you noticed i installed the center screw first and i marked the studs ahead of time and that way you don't have to fight it and you can just line the edges up after the fact even though i'm going to be installing the tile on the back wall first i'm going to go ahead and level a line off the top of this board and install the board on the side walls as well when i install these boards i usually use a minimal amount of screws just one on each end should be adequate they really are not supporting that much weight now the five foot long wall i did put one in the middle for extra support now it's time for me to put the layout on the wall so first thing i'm going to do is find the center so the length of this wall is 59 inches roughly so i'm going to come over 29 and a half and make a mark and then i'm going to come over this way just to double check so 29 and a half and that looks right and what i got to do since i need a line that's on the edge of the tile coming this way i'm going to come over just about a sixteenth and the reason why we come over a sixteenth is because we're going to have a grout joint that's an eighth inch so a sixteenth offset from the center gives me the edge of the tile that's going to be coming over this way so the first row tile i'm going to be laying on this board i need to get the measurement by finding the very center so this tile is 23 and three quarters so half of that is 11 and 7 8. so i'm going to mark 11 and 7 8 on this tile and i'm going to hold it up here on the wall to that center mark that i made earlier so it's about right there and that looks good so i'm going to mark the edge of this tile so now i know that is the mark that i'm going to have to level up the whole wall to have my center line and then the edge here to this mark is going to be the next row so all i got to do is level this line up or i should say i'll plumb this line straight up i'm going to plumb this line straight up now i know when i line this tile up with this line over here it's going to put this tile perfectly center of the wall so when i'm running my pattern i'll use that line when we line the tile up to this line we know that this tile row is going to be staggered off from that center so we're going to use this line for the one row and then we're going to use this line for the next tile so it's going to give us a perfectly staggered look going up the wall now it's time to mix up the thinset and in order to do so you're going to need a half inch drill with a mixing blade on it an empty bucket some fresh clean water and then the actual thinset itself and if you got porcelain tile you're going to have to use thinset that's for porcelain if you got ceramic you're going to use thinset that's for ceramic but how i'm going to be installing is porcelain so we're going to first start by pouring in the amount that we think we're going to need and since i'm working by myself i'm not going to put in a bunch because i cannot work fast enough to use a lot at once i'm going to start by adding just a little bit of water and then mix that up to see what kind of consistency we got so it looks like i need to add just a little bit more water because it's a little thicker than i want i'm looking for a peanut butter like consistency so just a little bit and a little bit of water goes a long ways when it comes to mixing up thinset and now we got to let it set for five total minutes this has been setting for about five minutes now all we gotta do is remix it for another few minutes that's all there is to mixing up thinset and now it's time to go install that tile i like to use a leveling system when i install my tile and just show you the parts to this one we got the actual spacer and the part that is wedged up under the tile to help level it and then we got the actual wedge that's going to squeeze down on top of the tile and go against this piece to level it i'll show you this in just a minute and then we got the tool that's going to be used to tighten it down and then we got a quarter inch notch trowel that's for the towel i'll be using and all this can be found on my amazon store the link is in the description below if you make a purchase and make a small commission but it's an extra cost to you and help support the channel all right so now i'm going to start here installing the first row on the back wall so i'm going to start with a center tile so what i need to do is take my quarter inch trowel and i'm going to have to put the thinset on the wall first so what i'm going to do i'm going to go ahead and get a good scoop onto my trowel and i'm just going to go ahead and get it smeared on the wall here ready to go and what we want to do is just take our notch trowel and try to put quarter inch notches where that tile is going to go all across the wall to where we're going to be running the tile when using the notch trial be sure to run your trial in the same direction on your final spread now that i got the thinset on the wall what i do now is i do what's called back buttering the tile i'll go through and put a layer of thinset across the tile as well when back buttering the tile be sure to do a complete coverage every square millimeter of the tile should be covered in thin set and this is a dirty job and always try to get my lines going in the same direction that way it gives a more even coverage so now that i got the tile back buttered and the wall has thinset on it as well i'm going to go ahead and stick this right into position and this is the line that we're going to be working off of since that's going to be the line i used for the center tile i'm lined up with the line that i made earlier i'm just going to push it gently and wiggle it into place and the idea here is to make sure we get a good bond to the wall now that we got the tile setting where we want it i'm going to take the spacers that came with the leveling kit and then i'm going to place these in each corner of the tile and also up above as well just about two inches from the edge right here we're going to have a joint so we need to be sure to add two here as well i gotta cut and place a tile here so as you can see here's our spacers and this is where our grout joints going to be so if we take a measurement here we got 17 and a half right to where that spacer is so we're going to take off an eighth inch because we gotta allow for a little expansion so let's say 17 and 3 8 is fine there and we're gonna measure the other side and do the same there is an array of tools used to cut tile but the best one that i found is a wet saw and this one is made by ridgid i've had it for years and it's worked very well and it's affordable i do have a link to it in my amazon store in the description below but how it works is when you turn it on there's a water pump that pumps water in through the device and it comes out around the blade then you just slide your towel into it and while this blade's turning it cuts the tile you don't worry about dust flying up in the air or anything and you can make very precise cuts with it so i would definitely recommend a wet saw if you've got a lot of tile to do so let's go ahead and cut this tile in order to cut this towel on the wet sole i'm going to measure over 17 and 3 8 and then make a mark as if you're going to cut anything else and now i'm going to line this mark up with the blade but before i cut i make sure i wear safety glasses and also i wear ear protection because this is very loud take it and touch it to the blade to make sure it's lined up properly into the mark and then i'm going to hold the tile tight and kick the saw on and cut it it's very important to cut slow when using the wet saw it gives your tile nice cut edges and it also is easier on the saw as you can see we got a nice straight line and something else you can do is if this was going to be an exposed edge i get what's called a diamond sponge and then i would just scrape it like this and it would just help give it a nice smooth edge as if it was a factory edge but since this cut's not going to be exposed i'm not going to do it but just want to show you you can do such a thing since i used the wet saw to cut the tile i always like to dry off the tile pretty good so that way the thinset will adhere to it properly all right so now what we're going to do we're going to place this here but before we do that we clearly got to put more thinset on the wall there just like the last pile i'm going to back butter this one as well so now what you need to make sure you do is put the cut side back to where it's going to get covered up so i always try to put factory cuts to factory cuts and then the same thing we're just going to stick it right where it goes and then clearly we don't have to line it up on a line because we're just going to butt tight to the other tile and we're just going to wiggle it right into place we make sure our tile is tight to the other one and we're going to go ahead and take our little wedges that came to leveling system and you've got a smooth side that doesn't have any notches and then you got the notch side so the notches go up like so now we're just pushing until it's relatively tight gonna put one top and bottom like so and then all we gotta do is take our little tool here and we're gonna hold it up to the shim more or less or the wedge and we're gonna draw it in tight right like so and as you can see our tile is flush with each other so it helps eliminate that lippage to where a towel is higher than the other one so as you can see that is nice and flush i like the looks of that so now we're going to go install the other tile i'm not going to continue up the wall after this row started on the back i want to make sure i do the sides next so always do the sides and then the back wall all at the same time but again always start on the back wall so your reveal looks good and now what i'm going to do is go ahead and center up where i want the tile to be on the wall and lay it out and continue the tile going all around the shower when running the sides of the tile over to the drywall be sure to put a level line up the wall that's going to give you a line you need to cut to so when you go to install your bullnose trim later it's going to be a perfectly straight line it's easy to get off of the line so be sure to pay special attention when you're cutting your towel to fit into place here's the tile i just cut that's going to go back into this corner so as you can see the edges here are pretty jagged because i just cut it with the wet saw now this is going to be an exposed edge meaning it's not going to get covered up with any tile like the one back in the corner so what i'm going to do is take that diamond sponge and just go ahead and scrape those edges right on the corner and that way it's going to soothe them out so they look a little more professional all right so as you can see the edge is much more smooth and it almost looks like a factory cut so that's what you want when it comes to doing the corners i also like to use these wedges because i can't get my leveling system in that back corner which acts as my spacer so i got to use one of these that acts as the spacer a little trick i use i like to take a pencil and clean out in between the grout joints as i go because you don't want the thinset to harden up because it's a pain to remove that later and again i just found a simple pencil works great because it's made out of wood and it won't chip the tile and next while you're placing your leveling system the spacer should be placed in the behind the tile before the thinset sets up overnight if you're coming back in the morning and also remove the excess thinset off the wall a great example of this is a wall to the right side of me i finished that up the day before i left and as you can see their spacers placed in behind the tile and the dried gray thinset on the wall was scraped off because again you do not want that to harden overnight i know what you're thinking tiling a shower is a lot of work and it is tiling a shower is a great way to give your bathroom an instant face lift plus it's a relatively easy diy project that most homeowners can tackle over a few weekends but why stop there tile your bathroom floor it's a great way to add value to your home and give it a nice luxurious spa feel of course tiling can be a bit of an investment so be sure you do your research and choose the right tile that's for your budget and your style i'm curious to see who has done a tile shower before so if you could leave a comment below if you have or have not and if you have not will you be willing to do one as a diy project now that the first row of tiles on the next row is going to be really similar but i'm going to show you how to stagger it and then after that we're going to fly with this tile so what i do is i'll go ahead and set my tile up there without the thin set on and i'll go and take my carpenter's pencil and then just mark it so that way i know when i put the thinset on the wall i don't cover up my two reference lines i made and now if you remember this is the line we went off of for that where we just started and then for this one we're going to line up with our next line so if you remember correctly if we line up with this line that gives us the perfect center grout joint going straight up the wall so now that you know what i'm going to do on this next row let's do it if i wish i knew something before i started learning how to do tile i wish i knew that tile is not perfect there are bows in these 24 inch tiles so they're never going to line up perfectly flush with each other and even some of the 12-inch tiles can have slight bows as well and don't expect every tile to be a hundred percent perfect square it's not going to happen a lot of times they are very square but there are some that are not a system that has worked well for me in the past if i have a helper is i'll just stay in the shower and set the tiles on the wall and get the measurements and hand them off to a helper that goes and cuts the towel out in the garage or somewhere where the water won't hurt the floor then they'll bring the towel back to me and i'll set the towel on the shower wall always double check each row with my level just to make sure nothing needs adjusted as i go and as of right now it looks like we're setting pretty good all right so i don't need to adjust anything but i'll always double check with a level also make sure that if you're going to be doing a shelf in the next row which that's what i'm going to be doing here that your leveling system is out of the way of the shelf so about 10 inches should be plenty on each side here just so you know you don't have to use a leveling system like you've been watching me use you can just use a putty knife as a straight edge and line them up and i'll show you how to do that later in this video there are several options when it comes to shelving you can get pre-manufactured shelves or you can make your own so i decided to make my own so i'm going to take this two foot tile and i'm going to make two shelves out of it and if you're using 12 inch tile you can make a shelf per tile now is a great time to use any tile that has chipped edges there's a chip here and a chip here so this is going to be a perfect tile to use for shelving and the first thing i'm going to do is measure over nine and an eighth off this edge and make a mark and then measure over off this edge nine and an eighth make a mark as well and then i'm going to measure down nine and an eighth make a mark and then measure off this edge nine and an eighth and now i'm going to turn on the wet saw and cut straight down these two marks first just like always recommend wearing safety glasses and ear protection when using the wet saw porcelain is much harder than ceramic so a wet saw is almost a must a ceramic tile cutter is only meant for ceramic now what we need to do is come over to that other nine and one-eighth mark and cut it off square as well so you more or less are making a nine and one-eighth square tile now what i got to do is cut a straight line from this point to this point or this point to this point either one's fine just take the tile and right here there's a little notch in the guide here so i'm going to just lay the tile right into that notch and then line the point up with the saw blade so i'm going to make sure it hits right where i need it and that looks good so now i'm just going to cut straight down this tile i'm simply going to take each piece of the tile and back butter it just as if i was going to install it on the actual wall and just going to take my notch trowel and just spread it evenly and we're going to do the same on this tile and now i simply am just going to sandwich these two together just as if you were making a tile sandwich you're going to make a mess doing this i'll warn you ahead of time but i'm just going to make sure these have a good bond just clean around the edges like so i want to make sure that the face of them right here is lined up almost perfect because we're going to put a facing on here so as you can see it's nice and flat now i'm going to set this to the side and let it dry the shelf has been drying for 24 hours as you can see we got a good start here but now we need to face the front of it with tile so i'm going to get a width first so if we take a look here we got about five eighths of an inch i always add an eighth inch to this measurement so it's going to make it a three quarter inch wide face for this tile shelf now i need to get a measurement from point to point if we take a look here we got about 12 and 7 8 so i'm going to add a quarter inch to it because it actually is going to extend just a little further on each side i'm going to put a little bevel on it now you just cut it like normal cut slow and steady in order to put a bevel on these ends what i do is i'll just go ahead turn the saw on and just hold it there and cut it off and i just got to do a guesstimate because this doesn't have to be perfect now if this was going to be an exposed edge or something i would definitely use a guide when free handing a cut like this go extra slow so as you can see we got a simple bevel there and that's going to be hidden behind the tile anyways now i'm going to install the face that i made onto the shelf so i'm going to just set it right up against this old scaffolding just to hold it up so i can work on it and i'm actually going to use what's called tub and tile silicone this has mold resistant properties so it's meant for areas that do have water laying in it constantly so what i'm going to do first is just go ahead and apply it right across the shelf face i'm going to take the piece of towel that we cut earlier and it's going to stick right on here so if you're wondering hey does silicone hold like adhesive it actually does fairly well so what reason why i use silicone is because it gives it a nice clean look from the top on the joint because thinset will make it look a little rough and you're going to see it so always use silicone here so i'm just going to set it onto the shelf as if i was going to install a tile elsewhere but it's just using the silicone so i'm going to wiggle it into place even it up and now here's where a little difference is compared to where you do most things i'm going to leave it down just ever so slightly so that way we can ensure that water will roll off the shelf and not get trapped in behind the face and now we're going to let this set up for 24 hours before we touch it i'm going to install the shelf in this corner like so so in order to do so i got to put thinset on the edges so i'm just going to get a little thin set and place it over the edge now that i got thin set around the edges i'm going to take two of those plastic shims that i showed you earlier and i'm going to get them ready because i'm going to use them here to level this thing up i'm going to go ahead and shift it right into place there and don't worry about all the excess thinset because we're going to address that here in a minute so we just need to make sure we're tight against the wall now i'm going to place a shim on the thick side of it that's the eighth inch side stick it under one side here take the other shim put under the other side that's closest to me and now we need to address this back take my little level and check to make sure we're sitting perfectly level this way from end to end this side needs to go up just ever so slightly so i'm going to put that shim in just a little more and now as you can see we're sitting really nice now i need to check to see if there's a drain on it to drop from this point to this point so we don't want water laying up here i'm going to take two shims place them together so that way when i slide it in there should be plenty of shim to shift it up to where there's a little drop on it now all i'm gonna do is clean up this excess thinset that's on it and get ready to towel around it here's what the final install looks like as you can see we are level from point to point and if we place our level like so you can see there's a slight slip away from the back corner of the wall and as you can see we got a shim in this corner shim in this corner and two in the back to help give it that little bit of slope i'm going to show you how i cut around the shelf what i do is get a tile that's cut the length as if the shelf wasn't there i'm going to set it right on top of it and then i'm going to eyeball my joint here to where it looks really good so that looks even compared to what the other joints look like now i'm going to mark an eighth inch roughly from the edge of that shelf so i know that's the length i need to come out at then what i'm gonna do is slide this tile up next to that shelf to get my height and my height is going to be just an eighth inch above that and now i'm going to cut this out so that i have a nice cut around that shelf when i install this tile around the shelf it's going to be done a little different i got to use a shim here so i'm going to do is go ahead and install it just like i would in the other tile except when i go up i'm going to have to shim it up into place so of course we wiggle it into place just like we do any other tile first i want to take a sham and shim it up because clearly we don't have a spacer underneath of it because we had to cut out for the shelf so after that's in place that looks really good we double check make sure we're level and flush with the other one if not we would have to shim it up here or shim it up over here to get it to come out right over there but it looks good so i just want to show you what you're going to have to do around the shelving i got to make a square cut right in the middle of this tile this is for the shower valve so in order to do so what i got to do is loosen up the head of this wet saw and then lift it up and i'm going to make a plunge cut so what i do is just line it up on the marks i made for it and that looks right where i need it so then what i'm going to do is just turn on the saw and plunge when making a plunge cut like this i usually score across the line first then make the plunge as you can see there's a line that's cut right in the middle of that tile i cut the square out for the shower valve and now i'm just going to peck on it until it comes out and as you can see it broke out relatively clean now i just got to clean up these edges that's all there is to it i want to dry fit this tile over the shower valve just to make sure it fits every time you make a complex cut like that it's a smart idea okay looks like i got really lucky looks like around the shower valve it looks really nice and around the shelf it looks really nice as well so i'm going to go ahead and install this where it's at i got the tile up high enough to where now i got to start thinking about what i'm doing for an accent strip and what i'm going to be using is this tile and what i'm going to do is cut it in half and use it as an accent strip so what i'm need to do is take the strips of wood that we started with and move them up above where we just stopped that tile that you see behind me because we need to jump across because we don't want to have to shim each of these pieces of tile in order to support the tile to continue just to be clear you definitely want to make sure that the first ray that's sitting right on top these boards have been drying for at least 24 hours after i cut the accent strip down it's going to be five and seven eighths and i want an eighth inch gap above and below so i need to come up off this tile six and one eighth now i'm just gonna put a level line across and then install my boards up to that level line flush almost just like we started at the bottom except now we're going to be up mid wall mosaic tile can be made from any material from glass to metal so be sure to check the packaging before grouting because the grouting can be either sanded or non-sanded sanded could scratch the glass so you definitely want to be careful before i left here last night i put thinset over and into the holes to where i removed those boards it's very important that you make sure they're water tight so what i'm going to do is take the waterproofing that i used to waterproof this shower and if you need to see that video there's a link in the top right hand corner of the screen you can check it out but it's me installing the shower base and waterproofing everything but what i'm going to do now is just take a little bit of that waterproofing and go over each spot i patched just to make sure it's water tight because you definitely want to make sure water doesn't get in behind that cement board so you just dab some over it and just do that to all the spots that you remove the screws from that board i'm going to show you how to remove the leveling system i need more of these wedges to continue running up the wall so i'm going to show you now but there's two ways to do it one you can pull back on this tab and then slide the wedge back and it pops off like that but you're going to have to break these off anyways so what you really need to do is just take a rubber mallet and then just hit it towards the actual spacer so like this and it just pops right off and as you can see back behind it that spacer stays so now we can grout this and it's going to be hidden you don't want to see it so it just pops right off it's actually that plastic's relatively brittle and now that we broke that off we got our wedges back and we can reuse these when i mentioned earlier how sometimes you have to shim i had to put shims as you can see like right beside each end of the tile here that's because it was getting a little off level so now if you take a look here it wasn't very much at all and if we put our level on top of here you can see we are now perfect so you just got to watch as you're going that you might have to do little shims every once in a while to make it perfect so that waterproofing set up and i went ahead and put the thinset on the wall just like normal and now what i'm going to do that's a little different is i'm going to measure to the center of this tile so we're going to go to 11 and 7 8 and make a mark and as you can see we don't have any marks to go off of or the reference lines like we did above so now we know that this mark has to be in center of this joint here gives it the staggered look like you've seen and now i'm just going to go ahead and back butter it and get ready to stick it on the wall in case you didn't notice i did put plywood down on the bottom of this shower base so that way i don't damage anything while i'm working and also you definitely should wear knee pads when you're down on your knees like this invest in a good pair and they'll last you a lifetime now that's back buttered we're gonna go ahead and stick it in the place where it goes the difference compared to the other section is we're going to have to use a straight edge to make sure we get it all nice and flat so in order to do so we're just going to wiggle it into place now i just need to space the tile correctly from the other tile above it in order to do so i just take the leftover spacers that we knocked out to get the wedges out that we used before and these work great in their exact same space as what we've been using so i'm just going to lay those right into place and now what i'm going to do is i'm going to just shim it up with the little shims off the shower pan all right now that we're shimmed up tight and we're spaced evenly there that looks really good and i'm going to double check with my little uh putty knife that i've been using and another tip when your bucket of mortar gets low i usually use the putty knife to scoop it out just way easier to get in the bottom than using the notch trowel so i'm checking with the knife and it looks like it's pretty well perfect there may go in a little bit right there and that looks really good and now i'm going to take these that we were using before because we still have room where you can use these below you just continue running the tile the same exact way that we did above other than just use the method i just showed you now it's time to install the mosaic tile or the accent tile whichever term you use that's fine but long story short it's going to fit right in here like so there's a couple things got to do to prepare for it now this one is relatively thick so i don't have to use any kerdi-band to pad this out now if this was really thin that thin glass is the one you gotta watch a lot of times you're gonna have to pad this out with the kerdi-band so that way it comes out flush with the tile this one is probably going to be countersunk just a little bit but it's not enough to where i'm going to worry about it so a lot of times these mosaic tiles will come to where you can cut them down the center and then this piece will lap into this piece evenly so if we measure down the center is right here so the first thing we got to do is just go ahead and cut right through these tile now as you can see this is designed to fit right into each other like so so that's going to give us a nice look now the first thing i do is cut the back off square so i'm going to run this down the wet saw and remove from here straight down so that way we have a starting point when we go to install it i'm going to install this accent tower starting right here and something you do a little different compared to the other tile is i don't put thinset on the back of this strip i only put thinset on the wall so you simply just gotta take it and place it where you want it nice and easy then i want to take this float and just kind of press it into that thin set i'm going to take a shim and then space it out appropriately like i said before just about an eighth inch after you got it placed about where you want it always go through with something and this is one of those little shims and just clean that thinset out between those pieces of tile because you definitely don't want to clean that out later the next one is just going to lace into that one and now i'm just going to eyeball the spacing so something like that looks good and the same thing it just kind of sets right in there and you do the same exact thing you just kind of shim it and wiggle it into place first now i'm going to take my float and just press it flat into the space here clean out whatever thin set that is sticking through if there is any and then i'm going to take my flute and just kind of press it in one more time and just continue that process until you get to the end before i do the mosaic on the sides of the shower i need to put the bullnose on first and if you're not familiar with bullnose it just finishes the edge of the shower if you're going to drywall gives it a nice look so in order to do so i'm going to have to put in a dummy piece so to speak and i'm not going to set this into place yet it's just going to support my row of bull nose the reason why that is because i gotta put a floor in yet and i'm gonna have to be able to cut it up from the floor and i can't do that obviously if it's installed so i'm just gonna set it into place and then i'm just going to take one of the spacers that came off the spacers i had set in the tile and i'm going to stick the bull nose on and i'm going to just set it kind of like i did all the other tiles and as you can see we're on drywall so you can use thinset on drywall and i'm just going to flush it with the tr with the tile that's on the shower and that looks really good and then just going to take another spacer and put right in between like so and then i'm going to do the same right here and now what i do to make sure the bullnose stays in the place and tight against the spacers i just take blue painters tape and tape it on and pull it over towards the shower just a little bit of pressure so that way it stays into place now do it at each spacer and if any thinset comes out of the side like you see there i make sure i wipe it off because you don't want that hardening on the drywall to continue the run i just use another spacer and stack it and keep going up until i get to the ceiling the bullnose is now ran clear up to the ceiling on this side and also it's up to the ceiling on this side and what i ended up doing on this mosaic tile is running it over to the corner and cutting it square into place like you see here took the shim shimmed it in the place where i needed it and as you can see when i ran this tile up i had to cut out for the shower head but i'm going to show you something that might work better for you instead of cutting it like this because i got lucky it got on a grout line where i could do that but that doesn't always happen of course and then i ran the tile right up to the ceiling and some people might have wanted to run the tile up to the ceiling where you don't have a cut piece so however you want to do it i'm just showing you what i did and also if we take a look down here whenever this is done setting up we can remove that starter bull nose and then cut in here once we get the floor into place if you run into the situation we got a cut out for the shower head i recommend getting this diamond hole saw made by kwep it's an inch and 3 8 and it's going to be the perfect size for that i'll put a link in the description below in this video but this thing works great because all you got to do is take this sticker part and it's very sticky obviously but you're going to peel this off if you used it before and this has double side to it and it sticks on like this peel this off and it's going to stick right where you need it to be held then you put water inside of this and then you just take the hole saw it comes with and you cut your hole out so you just take it hook it hook it to your drill you know cut it right out with no problem so that's what i usually use if i do got to cut out for that shower head if you want to know how i'm going to grout and caulk this shower check out this video it'll help you out

Channel: The Excellent Laborer

Views: 127,224

Keywords: how to tile a shower, how to tile a shower wall, how to, how to tile, how to tile a bathroom, how to install tile in a shower, how to install tile, how to tile shower wall, how to tile a wall, tiling a shower, how to build a walk-in shower, shower tile installation, tile shower, how to install subway tile in a shower, how to grout shower tile, how to install shower tile, how to tile a floor, how to install shower wall tile, tile shower installation

Id: BR_xpYEZ6iQ

Length: 40min 36sec (2436 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 19 2022