How to size and rough frame a door opening.

hello everyone and welcome to Bevins builds and today's video is gonna be a real quick one on how to rough framing a door now the first thing I want to point out is this is gonna be a rough in frame in for a non load supporting wall of what you can see me doing here is I'm just reassuring everything to make sure I got the right clearances and settings and all that and I've actually already even pre-cut most of my boards but anyway getting on with the point when you're putting in a door and an interior door even an exterior door it really don't matter the biggest thing you want to keep in mind is number one what size door you're going with so for example if you're gonna go with a 36 inch door and mind you keep in mind this is for prehung doors if you're gonna go with a 36 inch prehung door what you're gonna want to do is add two inches to each dimension so that means if you want a 36 inch door you're gonna be 36 wide by 82 tall the door itself is actually 80 inches tall but again you want to add two inches to each dimension again so that will be a 38 by 82 inch opening and as you can see here what I had already done is I had the bottom plate already set up and ready to do this door I just never actually installed the door itself um so I already had the inch and a half to set the door the the boards that I'm cutting down upon to but the the boards that I'm putting up now are both cut at 80 and a half because the bottom board is already there and that gives you the inch and a half so that gives me my total of 82 and height now something else to keep in mind you can actually go two and a half because it depends on who you ask some people say two inches some people say two and a half inches at all dimensions but the thing is is you have to keep in mind number one what kind of flooring are you putting down if you intend on putting down just like say hardwood flooring or maybe even tile flooring the 82 height is more than sufficient you're never gonna have any problems if you intend on putting up carpeting in in the space after you put the door in typically if you're gonna put a nice carpeting especially with a heavy pad you might want to raise the top height to 82 and a half just to give you a little more clearance to clear the pile and such of the carpet so you don't have any issues now something you just saw me do on the video there as I put a clamp on the reason I'm putting a clamp on the head is number one name as always working by myself and I find it easier just to go ahead and clamp the board on and then put the screws in it now with doing that I typically do it on both sides another reason that I'm doing that is it also keeps the it helps to make sure because the particular 2x4 I was putting up to be quite honest was a little bit warped and by putting that bracket in there it holds it straight and it keeps making sure that it stays in lined while i'm screwing the board up something else just the jump subjects a little bit you may notice that I typically have screws in my mouth to carry around on doing that a little bit of history behind that most carpenters always carried a few nails because everything was always done with nails back in the day me I'm a big fan of screws but one of the biggest reasons the that I was told anyway that people used to keep the nails in their mouth and you always put not the not the head in but you put the point in in your mouth and the reason was to get a little bit of saliva on the nail and the thought process to that was if you if you got a little saliva on the end of the nail before you go to nail it in or in this case threw it in it'll prevent the wood that you're screwing into from splitting so like I said a little tidbit of information in a little history on carpentry now something else typically when I'm screwing up my side boards and even the headboard the header board I put two screws on the bottom two screws on the top and then i zigzagged screw it down the center's on both sides and that's what I'm actually doing now as I'm doing this exact pattern of screws down the sides now when you're framing the door again you want to have I don't think I've said this before anyway you want to make sure you have two two by fours that are the complete length of the wall and height so I shouldn't have said length you want to make sure that the tire height of the board and then you're using the other two boards as your shelf for your header for the doorframe now when you go to make your header what you're going to want to do is you're going to have two two by fours with a half inch piece of plywood in between them so that way that it equals the thickness of your two-by-four sideways because these you're putting on the opposite direction and the reason that you're doing that is it give it a lot of support to make sure those boards won't warp and turn now in an attempt to try and speed this video up I just walked off screen and screwed everything together and you can see here now that I have the two two by fours with the half inch piece of plywood in the center of them now we're going to be taking that and putting it back up on the header now for this particular door again this is a I'm installing a 36 inch wide door so my opening is 38 inches and that header that I'm putting up right now with the two by fours is actually 41 inches in width now that I got the header set in place I'm gonna climb up there and start screwing it in now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna put two screws on either end of that and then once I get that firmly secured and fastened I'm going to be putting up a few two by fours on top of that on my 16 inch on center because that is what my wall is set up for is 16 inch on center a little bit more information or history if you will the reason everything is done in 69 Center or even some houses are done on 24 on center is because no matter where your board ends up being you don't have to cut a board to length to get it to go on the wall or for that matter in this particular case because I'll be drywalling it you don't want your drywall to have to be cut you always want to keep your factory edges lined up when you're doing drywall and the same thing applies with plywood if I was gonna be doing a plywood wall you want to keep your factory I just lined up because they're generally the most square and clean now again you can see that I use the quick grip vices again and I will be putting links in the comments in the description of this video below as well for any of the items that you see me using in here me personally I'm a big fan of using the wall tools I've always had a lot of luck with them to Walt and rigid both are great tools I usually get a pretty decent discount at Lowe's when I'm buying them otherwise I won't buy them I usually wait til off sales and so on and so forth but the screw gun in the drill and everything that I'm using is a 20 volt cordless drill now for the sake of speeding things along in the video I think I'm gonna go ahead and cut some of this out so we can get towards the end and now here I'm just putting the last few screws in unto the two boards that are on top of the header and again those are on 16 inches on center and then I will be getting down it out of the way for you guys to see the finished product I really hope this was a helpful video I hope this was an informative video so again any size door add two inches to all three dimensions the height of every door is always 80 inches so your top height is I know always going to be 82 or 82 and a half depending on the type of carpeting you're going to be put down and on the width if you're gonna do a 32 inch door you're gonna want 34 wide if you're gonna do a 34 you're going to want 36 wide and if you're gonna do a 36 inch door you're gonna want a 38 inch wide opening so again one quick look there is the finished opening and I just want to show you what I was talking about with the zigzag like I said I put two screws on the end and then I zigzag it down the middle same thing within here you can't see the ones on top but I put it a zigzag all the way down that board and then I put the two on the bottom I hope you found this particular video helpful for your projects at home and again I want to point out that this is a non load-bearing wall framing technique if you were going to be doing a load-bearing wall you would want to use like a 2 by 8 or a 2 by 12 depending on the load you're gonna have above the door but again this is a non load-bearing setup here so as always thanks for coming to Bevins builds if you have any questions or comments please feel free to comment below I'm usually trained to get back with you as soon as I can if you're into Lego check out my other channel Bevans bricks and and also what I don't want to forget I will be putting comment or links in the comments and description of this video below for any of the tools that I've used and any other things you might need to do a project such as this so anyway until next time we'll see Evans bills

Channel: Every Little Thing

Views: 134,678

Rating: 4.8777189 out of 5

Keywords: rough in door, prehung, prehung door, how to size a door, how to, how to size a rough in door, measure, framing, frame, frame in a door, install, install a door, how to frame, rough framing, rough in, door size, hole, fit, fix, build, building, bevins builds, build a door frame, rough frame in a door opening, door framing, how to rough frame a door opening

Id: OpdUgf3cvm4

Length: 8min 3sec (483 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 05 2020