How-To Replace the BOTTOM of a Car Door - Rust Repair

we started stripping this rear door to a 63 Lincoln it had a Maaco paint job on it hiding all kinds of issues this had tons of fiberglass work done to it that was hiding all the holes in today's video we're going to be discussing how you take something with all of these complex shapes break them down and then remake the entire bottom of the section of the door that's cancered out the the biggest thing that's overwhelming here is that you have several different shapes and maybe you have the tools and maybe you don't so we're going to show you how to break that down with not only the tools that we use but also other ways that you could do if you had very minimal things in your shop at home foreign as we look at this door it can be very overwhelming with all of the bead beading and different shapes that we have we have all this curvature that comes in for where the weather stripping rides so that way when you shut the door you have a nice seal we are taking on this project and there's already been some fabrication work to small areas but the problem was they probably saw the corner rot from the exterior and just patched that small section but what we actually found once we removed the door was the amount of cancer LED all the way into the bottom of this Edge we're gonna try to show you guys how we'll break it down into what shapes can you make with the tools that you have and overall it does not require a ton of tools obviously the more tools you have the better but you can get them on the cheap Harbor Freight cells bead rollers and brakes for affordable cost especially when it comes to a door maybe you just find a whole other set of doors and you cut the bottom section out and completely replace it but we don't have another set of doors so we want to break it down into what can we make we have a bead roller and we have a break so I'm going to be using the brake for all of these steps in the lower portion of this door and when it comes to these radiuses here obviously you can't use the brake because the brake is going to only do one straight Bend wherein here we have this curvature so I'm going to use a tipping die on a bead roller to be able to create this and we're locating where our cancer is so our cancer is in these areas and because there's a brace on the inside we're going to kind of break it down in how do we want to attack it well if we have this curve we can bend this sheet metal over our knee over the stand pole whatever works and then we need to dissect some of these other shapes so this I'm going to evaluate more once we cut some of these pieces off but we need to make tape templates and figure out where how much surface area we need of the metal that we're going to do you can do this with cardboard you can do this with tape I find that tape seems to be very accurate especially when you're just trying to do something on the fly so this entire break we will do all of these with the brake and the bead roller and leave this excessive panel we might make this a little bit higher that way we can tip the edge once we get this set down in the door as we make it we're going to be taking references this is a micrometer it measures down to one thousandth of an inch and not that you need a micrometer to do this you guys can use an adjustable Square for depth but I find that these work really good especially if you're going to scribe and I know the guys that are machinists are going to cringe because these things are very Precision but it does have a step in the bottom so where you can actually take a depth put it all the way down slip this down and now we have a very accurate reading as to what this step needs to be and where we need to lay out our marks so there we go sew again we're going to take tape I want to start making this bottom section first because it's probably the easiest and we're going to basically take a measurement from the top Edge to our first break so that way we can lay it out now something that you should think about is if you're going to put this in a break in a break you slip the sheet metal in you clamp it down and right exactly where you have your marks it puts a 90 degree or whatever kind of Bend you want in that but plan out your breaks because sometimes you might get to the end and realize that you can't get the break in there because of the depth of these are so close we'll show you guys that when we get to the break I have already cut a piece of sheet metal so we just took the distance of the door and we added it up for all the brakes and we left a little bit of excess at the end if we need it we're going to go through you have uh spot welds in the very bottom of the door seam where they have overlapped it and pinched it together I'm not going to try to get in there and bend that up until we've completely removed this and then I can get in from the inside and slowly start to work that edge and get those spot welds out we've already cut this piece of sheet metal we made it excessively long out of a four by eight sheet this is 18 gauge sheet metal we went ahead and went with 18 gauge because it it is the same thickness as what we have in the door that's more commonly used 16 gauge you might use for like a firewall but 20 is a little thin 18 is in my opinion one of the better thicknesses to work especially if you're going to be doing bead rolling when you're pinching the bead roll and when you're breaking things the thicker you get the harder it is to get those shapes that you need so again you can use a square if you want but we're going to locate the very first depth of our door and that is going to be five inches so we have five inches from the point of the top to the very first break what's nice about this is that you can lock this in so it doesn't move and just make your reference marks if you're using a Sharpie the difference of the thickness of the Sharpie will also matter in how good this fits so if you are going to use the Sharpie and you get used to it if you make a mark on a point I like fine point Sharpies so that way you can get an accurate mark But if you have something that's worn out or thicker you would want to keep track of if you make a mark is it in the center is it more to one side than the other because if it's different from one side to the other you're going to see that when you actually fit this in it doesn't fit so here we're just using the back side or the front side of this doesn't matter and we are making small marks I don't need to put a line because when we put this in the brake we can just line up our dots exactly so a lot of times I will just use a square and put it right at the edge so that's going to be our first break all right we're just going to put our sheet metal piece right at the edge where we want our brake to be and line up our Sharpie Mark directly in the center once you get it right where you need it we can then lock it down double check clamp it and then we're just going to bend this up in 90 degrees foreign just like that we have our first Bend in the bottom of the door panel now that we've got that in there we're just checking it to make sure that our height is where we need it now we need to get our depth for the next step which is going to be this direction here here we have exactly half inch step out so we can lock this in right a half inch make our Mark just like we did before except we're not able to put this thing back in the brake all of these breaks are so close together that the actual footprint that clamps it down will bend that up so we're going to do the next two bends on our bead roller and we just need to make sure that we have it laid out nice and straight we're going to lay out the next one center of the radius of the bin we just made with the micrometer and put a little tick so that way we can capture the next one foreign sheared all the pieces for the bottoms of the doors so I'm going to use it as my straight edge because I know it doesn't get any straighter than that and I'm going to line it up right on my Sharpie marks that way I can use a scribe and the reason I'm going to use a scribe is you can use a Sharpie but when I'm trying to get all of those radiuses to land exactly where I need them on the door a Sharpie is wide enough that you will get a deviance versus having something that we scribe which is basically a steel carbide pencil that we're going to scratch and it'll be a lot more precise than if we had a Sharpie foreign now that we have our second bin mapped out we can go to the break the bead roller and use the Tipping die we've come through with our straight edge that we used to describe the top side but always remembering and not resting rushing your work to make sure that you have your mark on the correct side because it's on this side I need the Tipping die to then Force this downward so I actually need the Scribe mark on this side so what you can do is just clamp this thing opposite we can line up our edges off the edge of the table foreign where the line is on the top side Maybe clamp it now we can flip it over double check this side here we have it moved and now we're set up like so transfer it this is the mittler bead uh bead roller this is the mittler bead roller and what I have on here is Hammer Fabs tipping dies I really like these dies because it does not have a rounded Edge it has a completely flat Edge so that way you can do a complete 90 degree Bend you just do not want to do it all at one time so what we're going to be doing is based off of our scribe Mark we are going to slip it in exactly on that scribe Mark and we're going to tighten the die down you have adjustability for the speed on a rheostat on the back of the bead roller so we've already got that stuff dialed to how fast we feel comfortable with and what you're going to be doing is then picking and bending the metal up little bits at a time you don't want to bend it all the way at one time because it'll take that metal and it'll force it all and become wavy you want to bend little bits at a time and stretch the metal right on the line and then your going to slowly work in with the pedal I bought one of these cheap little Amazon lights that's magnetic and you just put a put a slight curve in it and run this through however many times you need until you get a 90 degree Bend if you start to walk on this thing and it moves side to side you're going to have an inconsistent Bend so the smoother that you can do this the better foreign and even if you want it's a cool shot here where it shows the is it okay so they're good to make noise for a little bit yeah you guys are good to kick the booth on and blow out stuff real quick if you want because this is all just going to be repetitive every time we put a Bend IN something we always come back and like to check our work to make sure that we're not veering off track for our shape that we need and sometimes once you get a certain amount of shape in it you can't get it to where you need until the end here we are going to do the last break of this panel going upward this is going to be the edge that is going to tuck under the door seam and how do you know how far to make it go down into the seam well this door has had modifications done and I don't know if they have welded this seam to Gap the door we're going to take the distance of this lip that you have at the door and we're basically going to just make sure that it goes in half the distance so that way we can pinch it together and not get into an area where we have to deal with a weld but as far as depth goes from the last bend that we did on the bead roller we are going to check the depth from radius to radius now when you're checking this depth you need to account because you have two thicknesses of pieces of metal this door seam that is folded over is 45 to 50 thousandths of an inch and so if it needs to go down that much farther I'm going to take whatever this micrometer measurement is and add that to it to make sure our bin is in the correct area so here we have again this is sheet metal work you don't have to use a micrometer this is just getting nitty-gritty the closer that you can get your measurements the better this thing is going to fit you can always massage things with a hammer and Dolly to fit at the end but if we're at 470 thou we can then go into 520 thousandths of an inch and that is a taking into account the thickness of this sheet metal to go down and underneath at that point I will lock this in I will then take it distance from Center of Bend to Center and I will make a mark same thing for this side and then we need to make sure that you don't screw up at this point because this is where everybody usually messes up I do it even even now from time to time make sure you make a Mark if you put this in there you know that this Edge needs to go up go stick it in your bead roller make sure you're going the right direction and put notes I put an arrow to make sure that this Edge goes up and that way I know this is the side that I need to scribe before we put it through the bead roller double check this side the other thing that's nice about clamping this Edge is you can then take your micrometer set it right back to the measurement that we had and do a sanity check for the depth and that is what we need for the depth down to the piece of sheet metal what check it in a couple different spots we're good there are a little off that's why this method is nice now we can actually take this thing set it exactly where I need it clamp it check it we are exactly where we need to be even all the way down and then we can then scribe this line foreign now that we have it we can go back to the bead roller and do our last break you can see there is a little bit more excess to this lip than what we actually need here and what we'll do is once we get this in its final resting place we'll take a depth measurement of how far we need it to go in and we can just trim this Edge till it fits under where we need it you want to keep even pressure so if you b-roll this through and you're tipping an edge and you get over here you're not pushing as much pressure directly with the wheels so the edge of this panel will then become to be to get wavy on you and not that it's a big deal it's just understanding why the metal is moving like it is you can always take hammer and Dolly what we're going to show you guys next is how you can Crispen up some of these edges if you need to or move and manipulate them and what if you don't have a bead roller well you got a couple options depending on your budget you can either go to Harbor Freight and get a hand crank bead roller that are really cheap or you can take the edge of your workbench if it's nice and straight and you can clamp this piece of metal down over the edge of the bench and bend it around with a hammer the other thing that matters is how big is the patch panel maybe you only have to do a small five or six inch patch versus doing the whole bottom of the door and maybe that works just fine for a quick fix bend it a little more foreign foreign there we have it if you didn't have a fancy bead roller or you didn't have a break thinking outside the box you can use whatever's laying around your shop and that's what I like about doing some of these smaller sheet metal patch panels even if you have a scrap piece of Steel that's straight you can clamp it to a table or use the edge of your table and let's just say we want it to bend these 90s in here you could put this thing line up your marks for where your brake needs to be with the edge of the table and just start working this around slowly now we don't want to take a bead roller and force this break into it all at one time because it will Bunch up and become wavy but if you take a hammer and Dolly and you are bending this down you would want to do this as even as possible slowly bending this down and it will curve around it will end up with a bigger radius it's going to take the shape of the table and you can always then come in at that point once you have it bent around the table Flip It Up and take a tow dolly with a straight edge set it into your Bend and at that point you can come in with a hammer and then hit it against that edge and it will actually Crispen it up if you notice the bead roller makes a lot tighter of a Bend than the brake did and depending on the die that you're using in your bead roller you will either get a tighter Bend or a more round Bend they have a nylon I believe it's nylon they're plastic dyes that is more used for aluminum but maybe it gets you the bend radius that you want for that part that you're making so just know that you don't have to always be in a bead roll you don't have to have the most expensive tools there are step Stones we didn't get there you know in one day we used to work everything by hand with a hammer and Dolly scribe a line and put the edge of your Dolly right on the line and slowly working it to get that straight you can just sit there and keep massaging it with hammer and Dolly till you get it right where you need it it is not the end of the world but that is just one other way you could do this now that we've got our lower Channel piece and the flat done you will notice that I have made this piece the entire length of the door and although we are not going to use that we are going to need to get around this radius here and if we're going back to what shapes can we make all in one piece you want to try to make as much of the shape in the one piece that you can but you have to dissect where you're going to make those differences so if we come back to what we initially planned we wanted to wrap this corner well I can't wrap the corner if I have this Bend this break in this panel all the way to the edge but what I can do is I can come in here and cut whatever I don't need of this edge off and then we're going to dissect it where we can take this piece and then roll it around the front of this door I like to make a few reference marks so that way I can always line this back up in the exact same spot the other thing you could use is you could put clecos or screws in here to hold this thing in the same place but I don't feel that's necessary when you're just trying to rough the shape in because this whole piece still has to go down and inward to fit the door exactly as we've already measured so I just like to make a few reference marks on the panel and on the door so I'm semi-close to where I need to be and then here I can then slide it and I can give a side profile of where I want my weld seam to be so I'm going to weld this corner piece to this channel right where this Sharpie line is so I'll make a small Mark way out here where I can see it that way I can slip this back over line up my Sharpie marks and then transfer this line up to the channel and I know I do not need everything from that line down so all of this material we are going to take a cut off wheel and remove that corner and then we will basically Bend this around what we're going to do here is we want to finish out the piece that we're making and we can't do that because of the corner here needs to be cut so that way it fits right in here so we can massage the radius into the corner before we jump into the corner piece that we're going to make next in order to do that we have our Sharpie Mark that's here that we know is where we've cut this corner out now we can just take our straight edge and we're just going to square it up a little bit and put a mark the only thing this is for is for a reference when we come in and tape this we can transfer all the information over so I take a razor blade I push this down in the radius and I'm going to cut right down and then do the next one all the way around to where we have the shape that we know we need and that should get us all the way up where we need to be we'll just get rid of the excess here and then what we're going to do is carefully remove this now we can take the same straight edge and we can transfer it in line with the shape we have and this just gives us a representation of where we got to make our cut and that's all we're using that for it's not a super precise way you're just transferring it to get the majority of the shape so we can curve this in and it fits nice and then we can put this one to the side so we can make our corner piece next which we will eventually butt these two together and weld them as one before we put it into the door we went ahead and we've removed the metal off of the corner and something that you have to do in this is trust the process trust your measurements we're going to line this thing back up this way with our marks but you can see that down here this radius is sitting off the door we have a gap and that's because we have not removed the lower portion of this door to bend up so that way this thing can sit down and we still have to cut this whole Channel out so that way this thing will set down in we know that this radius continues straight out that's why I made sure that my tape was in the radius in line with this Bend so just trust the process don't worry about the way this fits in this stage we just want to get it close and then now we're going to just start bending this piece around with doing this you can use your knee you can use the stand pole here you can use a welding bottle whatever shape you have we're going to make a wind field Anvil at some point but if I have an idea of where the radius needs to start bending is right where this cut is I'm going to just come down and then start bending this thing slowly around until we can get it fit on here good foreign do little bits at a time hold your finger where you know the radius needs to continue line it up on the pole and just keep massaging it around right there we have it really really close and you can see that it fits good all it has to do is move directly down for this to fit right at this point we're basically going to move on to this corner joint and dissect it we're going to do the same exact process with our tape template and we are going to lay tape over all of this and I'm going to cut the inside radius in the same spot so these two join up in the same part of that radius and then I'm going to mark right on the tape line for the Outer Edge which is where we're going to tip it in the Tipping die foreign thank you oh my God now we have everything we need as far as surface area goes and we just want to very carefully mark right on the edge of this Bend and then we want to carefully remove this and transfer this to a piece of sheet metal we're going to cut this off Square hanging It Off notice I always tape in One Direction and that's so that way I can pull it all off in the exact same direction as well without it coming apart foreign there we have it now we can transfer this to a piece of steel cut it out still rolling all right this side here we like being the straight edge and I'm going to work this down just like you would a sticker that way you get the correct surface area now what I do is I take that same razor blade and we are going to cut this radius thank you now we have all the information we need we can cut this out what I'll show each thing do what oh so now we have this piece which is our main outer part of the corner this is going to be the area that we are going to tip and a lot of times you get caught up so if you need to put notes on here to tip this Edge we're going to cut this out this is going to be the inside radius that will butt up to our other piece that we made first the flat so we'll cut this guy out on the perimeter I will go just up to the Sharpie Mark keep in mind the difference sometimes in a Sharpie mark might make something fit better or worse I like to think about the Sharpie as a little bit of added cushion when you're cutting things out if I'm going to cut this out I will cut it just to the Sharpie knowing that it's a little bit bigger than I need and I'll focus on tipping this Edge first right in the center of the Sharpie line or if you're cutting it in the center just notate to yourself as a mental note if this is to the inside then when I actually go to tip this I need to be right on this corner of this Sharpie line that way this tip Mark is in the right area as we get each piece cut out we always need to come back to the car to the fender to whatever it is you're making and check and make sure we understand which way it's got to be tipped now we are going to tip this and if you're thinking about your bead roller and you look at the line that we have marked it's going to be tipping this the wrong direction we need to tip it Opposite so we actually need to mark this side and I know that this is a half inch flange so I'm going to use an FBS fine line tape which is quarter inch so we're just going to flip this over I have the radius that I need here already ground into it and I am just going to put two lines with this tape to create that half inch Gap and then I will Sharpie it onto this side then we can go over to the bead roller and we know exactly where we need to go if if you have any question they have different thicknesses of vinyl tape in case you're trying to do a certain amount you can always use half inch quarter eighth to create some of the shapes that you need if you need to transfer things over foreign now we have our marking that we need let's go the Tipping down what's cool about the Tipping die is that you don't have to always do Straight runs like you would in a break this is being a radius what's going to happen is it's going to Bunch the metal up in the center of this curve and we're going to have to gather that metal to make it lay flat and that's how we're also going to create the bend around the corner of the door the first step is going to be slowly working this in until we start getting this to look wavy and then we will grab the shrinker stretcher to then force it into place now what if you didn't have a bead roller to get this forced in and around you could technically find a piece of tubing maybe 120 wall that has enough strength that you could set this radius directly on the edge of the tube and taking a body Hammer you could slowly work this Edge down forcing it slowly back and forth to accomplish the same thing and then come in with a toe Dolly on the flat and just keep massaging this corner all the way until it's where you need it to be oh foreign [Music] [Music] foreign as we ran the Tipping die through from the side profile you can see how wonky the edge of this sheet metal ends up getting and that's because you're trying to force too much of the metal in on itself and we need to gather the metal to gather the metal we are going to use a shrinker stretcher we put the shrink dies in here and the only thing you have to do if you don't have two of them is put the stretch dies in and it's kind of a pain sometimes when you're trying to finesse a shape but to start you can see where these wrinkles begin to form we are going to put this in the Jaws and what it's going to do is force the metal in on itself if you were to take a micrometer like we were using for all of our steps you could actually measure this and then shrink some and measure it and it'll actually be thicker in that area but we're just going to keep shrinking the area that is pushed up to get this back flat and as we work this back and forth we will be able to come back and forth between the Tipping die and the shrinker to get this to sit at 90 degrees flat it doesn't take much and you can see how already just a couple little presses of that it has then made this flat we can then go right back to our radius and keep working it back and forth come back to the shrinker do it again until this sits how we want it foreign pass this thing starts getting wonky again so you can do it a couple times or you can go back and forth it doesn't take much to just bring it back in a little bit more I come back over here now obviously I don't have the same leverage through this whole piece because there's such a small Edge over here um what you can also do to create this is use a tow dolly on your workbench and we're going to show you that I'm going to shrink this thing so we can get it sitting semi-flat we'll put it on the tow dolly in the curvature and we will work it by hand to finish off that edge now the side that is smaller being the half inch flange is going to be a lot easier to hold down flat and what we're going to do is we are taking a toe Dolly one side has a very small crown and one side is dead flat also dead flat and a radius well that radius is used to put into areas and now that you have a line started you could start that line with a hammer and a punch a flat punch to get it going if you did not have a tipping die and what you want to do is push down firm so this piece can't move and then you're going to be taking your hammer and working the metal up as you go around you can slowly massage this into a 90 degree curve now even with doing this you can see how it starts putting the metal has to be shrunk on the shrinker in order to get this to gather correctly so you have to do little increments on the bead roller and you have to do little increments even with your toe dolly we can even try the other side too this is a small piece it's kind of hard to get in there but the easiest way is going to be bending this edge up around now because this has moved we're going to go back to shrinker because I can't hold this thing flat until I get this back shrunk down flat foreign as we work this Bend into it either side will have to be shrunk little by little to get these things to bend at the same rate because of the Curve so you have to keep watching it and if you have these areas like so that we need to shrink we will then come in and be able to keep bringing that in on itself to allow us to do more hammer and Dolly little by little to get this curvature in there move it over another thing we can do is hold it around the dolly line it up on the top of the radius and you can see it Smooths out that wrinkle that we had to push into itself so here your your cold shrinking you're taking the metal and you're forcing it back in with hammer and Dolly there's a variation of things that you can do to shrink this metal forcing it back in on itself with a hammer and Dolly is just one of them let's go take the piece and see how close we are how far we are on the door we're unsure when we're over at the bench how much we have to bring this flange down so we're at the door just giving it a quick little Visual and you can see that it is starting to take shape we have a little bit too much shrink in this area because it's wrapping more around and we need to get this flanged to tip down a little bit more so we'll go back and we'll just keep working this down and I'm going to focus over here not to keep shrinking this because it's already going to start bringing that too far in as we fit this piece it's very common that you go too far with some of the shrink Jaws we swapped the Jaws out so we can stretch but how do you know where you need to shrink and where you need to stretch this is there's a lot of gray area and metal shaping you always have to just find something in the shop that works whether it be a piece of tubing that you set this in that you can beat this around we ended up putting the toe dolly in the Vise and then working this around the curvature but you can see here we need this to be nice and flat well in order to get this nice and flat I need this top Edge to bend out so if you're looking at this Edge we are going to then stretch right in this area only and it's going to start straightening out so we get this back flat it's a constant deviation of a little shrink a little stretch to get things to line up where you are but you can see how quick it is to just do a couple tiny little moves and I mean I'm barely pushing on this thing and look at what a difference that did right there it's already sitting back flatter we'll keep going a little bit more boom this is already sitting back a lot flatter just by putting a little bit of stretch in here and also what you can do is if this is a rigid part of the door we can hold this thing in place I could I could clicos this in place if I wanted to and take a hammer and slowly work this down into the same curvature and I think maybe we should do that since especially we're going to remove this piece and not use it anyway these are clicos they are used in aviation primarily as well as Automotive fabrication these pliers will grab it and it pushes the prongs or the fingers together and they have different colors of these so these will be a different size drill bit the gold ones are 1 8 inch so we need to focus here on lining up are bends and then we can also make sure that this panel is over far enough right where we're going to be butt welding it and you can see too we can't move this down all the way because we need to shave a little bit more see our Sharpie line that's still left there I like to creep in on the shape instead of just going directly to it because a lot of times you'll cut it too short so we'll have to grind a little bit more off of this corner so that way it sits down we have it all the way over to our Sharpie Mark and we'll get this corner to line up and then we will drill an eighth inch hole in here two of them to hold this in place so that way we can smack this to fit the same curvature of this door sill y [Applause] now this is where you can see how we have a little bit of play and we can start to manipulate this thing into place but I like how this lines up at the top so I'm going to hold this bottom up a tiny bit so we can locate one more of those clecos now that we have the clicos in place every time we put this back whether we remove it or not it's not going to change location you can see if we push this down we get really close to our radius that we need here but I'm going to be forcing with this type of hammer that we've ground this is the Martin Brothers hammer and we we have worked these heads to be a very small crown versus a large Crown here so you can then and if you need more Crown then you switch sides so we get this thing to fit like we want and now keep in mind you can see here at this Edge and we push this in it's a tiny bit shy of where it needs to be and this Edge is a tiny bit shy but as long as it's uniform we'll grind this to where it's the same distance and when we remove this corner this will go straight in and that will take up our Gap so we will dissect this piece by piece by drawing marking around it and removing it until this piece fits in there perfect and then we can start to either we tack or Mark whether we put this piece to the beginning of the curvature or whether we start putting this into the door does not really matter to me it is easier to do it off the car but sometimes they don't fit quite how you want them to be now here do you see how this radius comes down and it starts to flip upward we actually need to bring this back down in order to do that we have this little ledge that we can put in the shrinker and if I very slowly put a little tiny bit of shrink in the slower Edge it will then bring this down to where it sits in here relaxed and we don't have to force it into place because you can see when I force it it's still sitting up off the panel we need this thing to sit in the same radius that way it slips into place so we've manipulated this corner piece until we've gotten it to where it's 90 percent exactly where we need it to be as we cut parts of this door out we can then massage it a little bit more to where everything will Jive together we're just trying to get it to the best that we can get it before we start removing pieces off of the door now that we have these two pieces made between the two we have an entire new bottom of a door with the exception of a corner which we don't know if we have to make until we dive into it at this point I'm going to go around each one of these patch panels and put a Sharpie Mark now in order to get this piece to slip under this lip I'm just going to roughly cut things out we still have an upper piece that we're going to have to make but I just want to start getting this stuff in place and then we will make each piece as we go we're going to Sharpie around and I don't like to cut right up to my Sharpie I like to cut shy of the Sharpie whether it be a half inch or an inch away so that way you can at least open things up and see what's inside before you've gone all the way to your line and realize things may have to shift or move or they don't fit I already know that the reason that this is canceled is because there's that inner structure of the door right here where everything hinges off of that's that's really strong and that dirt and moisture has been caught in the bottom of the door and stayed wet which has caused this to cancer out so once we remove this we can evaluate what that structure actually looks like underneath and whether we have to patch that in or not I cannot get to this lip and work it upwards easily but if I cut in just shy of the lip and remove this out of my way I can then use a panel breaking tool to actually get right up under there and work that lip out if depending on how much welding the previous shop has done to that corner we can then evaluate whether we're going to have to cut this off flush and remake that lip or not so let's Sharpie this thing we'll make our reference marks just close to where we need to be and then we'll start hacking it away now that we have that one again we're going to go just so far down away from this lip once we get this out and this thing's set in I will trim the top to where it fits exactly and if I need to bead roll this Edge into there I can and I'm just going to hack out along the bottom so I can slip everything in there foreign [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] we did find that the cancer on the inner structure which is the brace for all of the hinges to be able to hold the door together and not be all flimsy was completely gone you don't want to disregard this stuff we went ahead and we just made a couple quick templates for you guys to show that we did replace it and we didn't just leave it but we're going to move on forward with how we make the outside of the door because this was really a pretty simple piece the next thing that we want to do is in order to get this piece where I needed it depth wise I had to go ahead and Tack the two pieces that we made together just so I could kind of do a dry fitment of where it's going to set now at this point we need to get this lip fitting where it needs to be here at the bottom of the door the more that I look at this door the more I'm seeing fiberglass filler that is in all these pinholes of the edge of this door so in order to make this simpler we're actually going to put a couple slices and remove that lip completely and what we'll do is we'll Shear off a half inch piece that will basically mimic the folded over and then we will sandwich all three with vice grips and we will go ahead and weld that all the way down the door when we do that we're going to use air make sure we don't get excessive warpage because this will tend to take off and change the center of the door the other good part is we have the corners that are not going to change they're not going to move so we'll be able to use a straight edge to align the bottom of this back where we need it I'm going to go through right now and we're going to start removing the tack welds that from the factory to get this lip off and then we can get rid of the cancered lip clean it all up we will coat this with a rust Mort um it transforms the rust so that way at least it it stops it it doesn't continue and then we can use some weldable primer in here just to help hold off any of the stuff in the future The Next Step we're going to do we're going to be trimming this piece down to fit exactly where we need it and it'll be a massaging back and forth between trimming this piece down and trimming the door up once we get this lip removed out of the door foreign [Music] we've gone through we have removed the very bottom lip and this this lip had an amount of cancer in there that would have definitely come back had we not removed it um as we fit this piece in we just kept trimming where we wanted this to fit and creeped up on it don't cut a whole bunch at first cut just shy of your Sharpie marks until you get so close that you can line up everything the points that I am checking is that my corner here where this radius comes up it is flush and that over here I don't want to really get into this radius because I don't need it it's an excessive amount of work for what we're doing and then here you can see we need to get these lined up and notice how it's sitting a little bit high this door is rolled up and we actually need to go back to the bead roller and tip this last Edge to curve more so that way this thing sits down in there once we get that this should line up perfectly and then what we did was once this was set it in I took the Sharpie and scribed the back side so we know exactly where we're going to cut this thing and even here if you look at it from the side profile it's still about a quarter inch long and again we will just figure out what is the difference and then I'll set my adjustable Square to where I can set it down and Mark that and cut it all in one shot and then it should fit right in where we need it and we can start tacking this piece before we start fitting this top cap but before we even weld any of this in we're going to have to locate all of these brackets from the back side and drill our holes that way we can push these back down and spot weld everything back in and it has the same exact locations as it did before so let's go over the bead roller so we're back to the Tipping dies we're going to put this back in that lower flange so that we can tip it more but if you look we're only good for 90 degrees so this is why I always say you can use whatever it is in your shop that you might have to bend something around you can even use the edge of your table or your workbench to get this to bend a little more because we can only do 90 we're going to come over here with a railroad dolly so this is a railroad Dolly looks like a railroad track you'll notice one Edge is a lot sharper than this Edge obviously you could use whatever you want and but if I'm going to put the Sharper Edge in here from a side profile I can then come in and just tap this Edge over that little bit more that we need and try to do it evenly with the hammer and Dolly so that way you can go back to the car and test fit it now you can see the edge is just a little bit more tipped and we can go test to see if it fits back in and lines up with this Edge now that we have that edge flipped up more this radius is exactly flush now you can see I have not trimmed the top of this panel so until we get the top trimmed and it sets in I can't get this completely flush yet once we get this all flush we'll throw a couple tack welds in there so nothing moves and we can start fitting the next pieces here we're just looking we've we've cut the top Edge we're just looking to see how far off are we and I got a little bit to take on this Edge and just a couple passes with the die grinder and this thing should slip right in for those of you guys who are having trouble with your MIG welding the tighter that you can get all of these gaps to fit the easier it is to weld so if you are struggling with that that is going to help you dramatically as your fit up you can see we technically could TIG weld this and the only reason that we're not is I don't want to introduce a bunch of heat to the outside of the door we threw a couple tack welds just to hold everything in place so that way the top of this inner structure here is stable and it's not moving around because the next thing we want to do is we have one more piece which is this top corner and this top corner has a lot of trickiness to it because of this recessed bead this recessed bead is a bit deeper than what our typical bead roller is going to be able to do really the best way to do this would be a hammer form Hammer forms basically you would make a bigger piece of metal and you would sandwich it between two pieces of wood and the wood would have the cut out of this detail that's in this as well as the depth and then you would just you could use a hammer you could use an air hammer and just basically Force this metal in on itself for what we're doing and keeping in mind that this is inside of a door panel and it's not going to be seen my biggest thing is I want to keep this from continuing to rust out we have already taken care of the inner structure and that is what rusted this area out that is why you don't have any rust on this side of the door there's nothing to hold the moisture there to it so we are going to map this out now in order to fix the inner structure I had to remove this to be able to get in there and get it all the way removed and in order to put this back in exactly where it was yeah you could eyeball it and float it in there but a lot of times it's just going to keep falling in the door cool little trick I just sheared some pieces of sheet metal and I'm going to use the clecos to then I just bridged the cut with the clecos here I have the ability to put this exactly back into the same place that it was and on one of the brackets I made sure we had two holes on the same bracket so it cannot pivot we got this corner piece fitted in but I wanted to show you guys from the top view what exactly we're doing here we're using the clicos to align this piece right back where it was and now we have the ability to make a basically a tape template of what we had this corner we have not completely trimmed it so we can still push this corner in where we need it all I need to do is get the depth off of this radius and then I also need to mark on the tape the radius in which we are going to bead roll this into as well as capture these lines now because we have the ability to cut and straighten these lines up we can do that and still be able to locate this in the same spot as long as my tape template goes exactly to where the distances of the new cut line because you can see all the jagged stuff all this stuff is going to hold you up from having a perfect fit up when we're taping all of this detail if you'd use one piece of tape versus a whole bunch of little pieces of tape you're going to be able to capture a little more detail and again this is all the detail that we want we need to capture where how far down it goes so even if you take your time with a little pieces of tape and overlap them in order so that way you can pull it back off now when it comes to this bead this is where I'm trying to capture where I need the bead to be where I need the upper radius the outer radius and as well as how much metal do I need here to line up here we can come in and now we can get the lower radius and I can make some references for the upper and we'll wait because we're going to put more tape but we're just going to cover this entire area as we get closer we will remove the clicos because this is the tape is helping hold this piece in and then we'll take a razor blade and we'll cut exactly on the outer area of our door so we have an exact template foreign foreign dotted lines here is so that way I can actually take the start line and I can actually use a fine line vinyl tape on the sheet metal to just be able to come in and clean some of these curves out you can also notice that it doesn't fit perfectly here but I have the ability once we get this made to shove this corner Inward and get this to set where we need it at this point from the radius out the only thing it's going to do is make this piece a little longer which is completely fine we can sit there and massage the metal until it fits all that I care is where my radiuses are so that way they line up with the edges that we're going to mate them to like in here as well as our cut lines where we're actually going to cut this out it's not super critical just surface area is when you match it in now we got to find out where we were foreign foreign the reason that we did some of the dotted lines versus some of the straight lines initially was either one we wanted to be able to put the Sharpie all the way down in a crevice of this low and also if I'm using a dotted line for my own reference you guys can use whatever works for you I like to use the dotted lines where I know I have to tip this Edge and put a radius in the other thing I can do as long as I have my references here at the end of the sheet metal where I know they need to meet up with the door then I can come in with fine line tape and I can make these perfect and resharpie it but it's just to give you an overview and a map to where you're going to start shaping and then even here when I cut this out I'm going to leave this maybe a quarter inch longer that way I can get it all fitted and if something is off a little bit with these bead rolls I can then shift this a little bit and trim as I go till it fits where I need it to be but uh we have done the bead roll and this is not ideal but for what we're trying to do on a door that's not even going to be seen behind the door panel it'll be just fine this is called a tea dolly and they sell these in a variation of radiuses and diameters and I can hold this thing now with using the bead rolled Edge to locate where I need to be I can then round the the edge around the rest of the way especially over here we have this excess metal and then we have radiused dollies as well that I can come in here and finish the radius of this now we're able to we can take a tow dolly then and flatten this thing back out or just smack it against the bottom of this flat of the vise we can at least put this on there and we can check where our radius starts and stops are where our bead rolls are and if I need to move this radius in or out I can do that with a t Dolly and a hammer so let's go fit this to the door and see where we're at we've been going back and forth to get this corner to fit exactly where we want and you can see even here on this radius if you're off a little bit you can go right back to the T Dolly and move the T Dolly and keep working the edge around until things line up now when it comes to this bead roll that we did in here you can see there is a substantial difference on the depth again this entire Edge is completely covered by a door panel and I don't want to kill the customer on cost to make this exact so what we're going to do is we've gone through and Tack welded along so that way it doesn't move and what I'm going to do is use a little butane torch and get the molecules heated up a little bit in here and come in with a flat punch now you can see you have an edge so we're just going to work this down little by little and then we will take a hammer and blend this to where it'll go from a deeper um Groove to a little bit slider not the end of the world especially for this and then once we get these Corners to fit in good we can go through and Buzz this back up all the way grind it smooth fit the bottom piece and move forward foreign before I get ahead of myself and start welding everything up it's important to always take a step back and think about some of the other things that we need to make sure we account for we need to put this piece in so we can make Sharpie marks around these brackets so we can drill the holes in here to capture all of the rosette welds that are going to hold all these brackets if you have an area like this one that we cannot get to well then just put yourself some marks on the upper panel so that way when you put it in you know approximately where that panel lies and somewhere in here we need to have x amount of holes and then on the inside you can just Trace around now we have our references of exactly where we can go through and pop our holes take a few measurements if you need to get into some of these other brackets we can just measure off of to drill our holes the other thing that we did do was we came through with rust Mort rust Mort is basically a converter you want to get all the XF excess scaling off of the bracket before you apply this this typically takes a few hours to completely convert the rust and it turns black to where the rust is not going to continue however this does not protect the rust from continuing over time so you have different options this is just one of them and then also you can use this here which is zero rust it's basically por15 or poor 15 whatever you guys want to call it but what it's doing is it's going to seal up and also stop the rust we just want to make sure that we either if you're going to coat it with something like this that you leave your tabs bare metal that way we can put our panel in and do our rosette welds the other option would be using a copper weld you don't have to use this one this is just one of the options but U-Pull makes a copper weld through primer we can come through and seal all this stuff up inside to where we're never going to be able to get again and that way all we have are areas that we can go through and weld but at least that point it's going to protect the door for a lot longer we can also coat the inside of our new panels once we're all done so that way it eliminates flash rusting on the inside you can see how much rust we've taken out you're not going to get it all unless you have had the whole door acid dipped but we're just trying to be as proactive as possible the only thing we have left to do is drill our holes put this piece in and then we will have to fine tune and trim just this edge of the corner at that point we can start tack welding everything into place and start spot welding things together you do not want to sit here with whether you're MIG welding or TIG welding and just buzz the whole thing together why say that with Mig TIG welding you would TIG weld us tack weld every half inch which is the same thing we're going to do with the Mig that way you do not have everything moving and expanding you want to think about this like a zipper that as you go along it kind of zips up itself so if you are excessively putting heat in One Direction but you don't have any tack welds here this will start to open up and you will lose all of your tight gaps that's why we will jump around and put tack welds every half inch once everything all the way around is completely tack welded in we will then start using air with a blow gun to tack weld and use our other hand to blow and cool the weld as you do this you are not introducing a bunch of heat which is going to cause some shrinkage now will this cause shrinkage yes it does cause a level of shrinkage but the fact that you're going to be cooling the weld with air as you're tack welding it's going to stop it immediately so you will get a level of shrink but it's minimal especially for the bottom of a door at this point you could seal it up in epoxy when it's all ground smooth and then just come through and da everything and epoxy it and put a skim coat of filler over there if you wanted to the goal here is minimal filler so we're just going to try to work on keeping our heat down and our fitment as good as possible better the fitment the less amount of heat input that you're going to have in the panel at any one time once we get this corner done and this lower piece done we'll then come back and address the very bottom lip separately foreign foreign foreign foreign I'm gonna get my Gap in there wow all right foreign foreign foreign foreign we've gotten all this piece fitted we welded the back side of this together and we left the weld on the back side so that way we could grind the front side and we're not losing some of the Integrity of that weld but we went ahead and we fully welded out this whole corner just so you guys could see what the finished product looks like we're going to just continue to keep our head down and Buzz this up you do want to put more welds in between here and we also got the bottom lip put in keeping this lip cool as you go is critical because what's going to happen is I always call it Turtle shelling as soon as you start putting Heat this Edge wants to curl in and you will have to hammer and Dolly this Edge back out if you guys want to know more about MIG welding through this entire process check the link in the description some of the things that you're going to have to do as you get this piece fitted and tricks like at the end of this corner here where it fought me you can take cut off wheels or maybe it's an airsaw and you can put it in at a 45 between the two panels so that way both panels are getting cut and they come together at that 45. I don't always like doing it that way but sometimes when you're just trying to get the last few inches it fights you a little bit and that's how I just kept everything a little bit long and dialed in also using the butane torch to get the molecules to heat up and move and expand and then you can massage these Corners like we did in with the the hammer for the the radius is otherwise if you have all that tension pushing out on those edges and it doesn't go in relaxed the problem is you'll end up with a whole bunch more warpage the goal is always to have the panel just set in relaxed we don't always have that and the more that you do the better you're going to get hope this helped you guys we'll see you guys on the next one

Channel: SYLVESTERS CUSTOMS

Views: 310,744

Keywords: rust repair, cancer repair, metal work, metal shaping, rust, sheet metal, welding, automotive rust repair, rust repair patch, car restoration rust repair, restoration, diy rust removal, mig welding, sheet metal repair, bodywork, how to weld, fabrication, mig welder, tig welding, metal fabrication, metal forming, fabrication tips and tricks, sheet metal fabrication, welding techniques, fabrication tools, car restoration, sylvesters Customs, Sylvester Customs

Id: TwZeWB-LYDk

Length: 108min 25sec (6505 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 10 2023