Can we SAVE this BROKEN Lathe? ~ MAJOR Issues found! ~ Will it Ever CUT again?

all right next up on the agenda here at the shop is to get my Cincinnati Hydra shift engine lathe up and operating so this is one of the machines that I got when I saved all those machines from that abandoned machine shop The Rundown one with all the old machines this is by far the newest machine that was there funny thing is is this was the one that I wanted the least at that time well it turned out to be really the gem out of all of them [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] thank you [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] foreign [Music] this Cincinnati here it had some grinding in the head when I initially basically turned it on the hope is is that when I took the top off there and it was pretty low on hydraulic oil so we'll see I'm gonna definitely try and get that gone through before I get any further but I did clean up all the ways and man this thing is just butter smooth [Music] uh this machine is an amazing shape the ways the the gears everything other than when I powered up I don't get full power to each one of the different RPMs when I change this dial here this is a Hydra shift Hydra shift Hydra shift it's a 17 by 54. and it is an awesome lathe but I'm pretty sure we don't have enough this is supposed to be an oil gauge that you can see into the head I can't read it to you know there's a lot of crap on it from Just years of sitting so I'm pretty sure we don't have enough oil in it the biggest reason I haven't just thrown more oil in it is in this electrical panel there is a whole bunch of like some sort of leakage from something else and I don't know if it's oil coming out of the head somehow getting into there or this machine did have coolant I think that the coolant pump is on the other side of this there's a a panel where you can access the actual coolant tank I don't know if it's back here or somewhere I'm not exactly sure I don't remember I'm not even sure if it's still on this machine but my biggest thing is I don't want to use the I don't want to fill up the head with oil and then have it all leak back out into the electrical panel and just end up you know completely making a mess not to mention the oil that goes in this is very expensive and I don't want to do it twice so it's just kind of set here all that's really been done is cleaning we've cleaned the heck out of it we've detailed the body we've detailed the ways we've we've gotten all of the uh all of the mechanisms for the carriage working the cross slide everything spinning freely and moving well I made this little Wood Protector to kind of just you know keep the ways in good condition not to mention sometimes we'll set and kind of use this as a workbench a little bit um and that'll protect that one thing we need to do is pull this this chip pan out pressure wash the heck out of it and then clean everything else I haven't cleaned the screw or the inside of the ways or you know whatever there's a pretty much the back side of it I did however find some Chucks for it this is a three jaw what is that a Bernard Chuck one five one something one made in England great Chuck I have inside and outside Jaws for it for the actual Chuck I picked up another uh backing plate with an L1 taper and then I picked up this chuck with an L1 taper and an L1 taper is basically this here what you see is it's tapers in it has a big large key and then there's a large nut that threads on these threads biggest problem with this Chuck is it's larger bigger through hole Etc but I only have these Jaws the other set of outside Jaws I didn't come with it and I don't know if I'll ever find them um see if I can find a maker there it is this is a a Skinner Chuck company number 3812 l1-49 made in New Britain Connecticut and so if you have or know or I could find a set of outside Jaws for this Chuck for a number 3812 l1-49 that would be amazing because that would take this Chuck and literally give it the way more capacity compared to the Chuck that's on it the Chuck that's on it is smaller but because of the fact that it has outside Jaws it has a larger capacity to hold a bigger thing than the other one other than the fact that the through hole is smaller so that limits what can be put in it right there at the throat anyway [Music] this is a four draw for it but it's not the kind of four jaw that you'd normally want this is a concentric four draw meaning all four Jaws move together just like they do on a three jaw Chuck so it's nothing really than a novelty I mean it's a big monster heavy Chuck that you know each jaw doesn't move independently like I thought it was gonna I didn't pay a lot of attention to it I should have they had another three or four drop shock that was now that I know it was independent of one another so I may try and go back it's been a while since I got these but I bet you they don't even have it anymore I'm starting to get semi-tooled for this lathe I still do have the original Chuck that came with it which is this [Music] Jacob's spindle Chuck which if you haven't seen one of these before essentially the way it works is it's got this little lock and this thing spins and it unscrews this collar [Music] that comes off and then has these rubber collets this is the largest of the collets fitting down into that taper right there and that allows you to basically put something in there and you would literally tighten it back down and the Rubber and the metal in there would grab on real gently and real concentrically to the work piece the beauty of this spindle chuck if you have all the pieces is that there's a whole set of different sized rubber collets that go with it and so I have the entire set there's five in that box should be six in that box with this one and then basically you have these that sometimes if you need to have a little bit of support on the back side you'd put the corresponding one in the back side of it and then you have something like that like there and then it's not squeezing the back of it more than the front of it and so these are really nice but they're very specialized and a normal three jaw is really the majority of what I'm gonna need I don't intend on getting rid of this thing because you know this is a useful a useful Chuck it fits this it's an L1 paper it came with it and I think that if somebody knew that there was a a little storage compartment there and they had found it they this chuck would have been gone they left it because they didn't think they had all the collets all of the the uh basically the pieces that go in there and fit in there and yet they were all these two boxes and this manual completely oil soaked were were in there which I was pumped about so I don't know how often we'll use that but that is the original one this is the one I currently have on it now I did check it for run out there's literally almost none at all for now I think what we need to do is we need to pull the chip pan out we're gonna crib this thing up we're gonna pull it out away from the wall there and we're gonna get access to the back of it where we can get into the electrical panel and get at the electric motor all right we're gonna pull this lathe out so we can get access to it foreign we're getting this thing looking nice this is obviously the back side of it but the Salvage Brothers this is Ryan [Laughter] and this is Josh hello getting this thing all detailed getting all the dirt and grease off of it and making it look like a deservable machine now what I'm working on right now in this cabinet here see this all right all that chipping paint it's like there was an oil leak in here up top nothing really you know it kind of looks pretty normal but as you come down here you see like even almost around that it's like there's a like like oil filled this tube up and just kind of I don't know started to fill up this cabinet I'm not sure and then this connection here this was actually unscrewed so this cable that goes from here to the motor was maybe disconnected long enough that all the oil drained out I really don't know I I took there's four bolts that hold the main panel to the box I took those four bolts off there's nothing behind there other than four bolts that hold the entire box to the machine so there's no access for oil to come through that way the only thing is these wires go down to this tube this conduit and they go underneath the head of the lathe and they essentially lead to this panel here and all this panel is is your forward reverse and stop so turn the Chuck one way turn the truck the other way and stop and if you look in here I don't see any oil leaking I don't see any Ingress location where you could possibly have oil come through all I do see is the conduit and the wires and so I counted the wires there's one two three four five five wires coming into this panel through that conduit and right here if we count we've got one two three four five five wires leave this cabinet go through that conduit straight into the button panel so I am a little bit kind of perplexed in regards to what is happening and how this oil got in here here's the thing what I am pretty sure on is that the head of this is low on oil and I know for a fact there's been an oil leak of some kind here and so I don't usually look at situations like that as a coincidence oh well they're just two totally separate unconnected issues since the headline oil and we have a bunch of oil in here or we did at one point it's now just Rusty junk mixed with the paint from the box it leads me to believe there's somehow there was a way that oil got into here the only other thing I can think is possibly coolant was run there should have been at one point there would have been a coolant pump there and I know well since I've gotten it there wasn't there isn't one I do know that when I got it we barely tapped the the panel here and uh busted a hole right through so this whole bottom was full of water when I first picked this machine up so there should have been a coolant pump there and it would have run I don't know in here somewhere I'm not exactly sure where it would have gone either way I am only seeing those two options as potential for getting uh getting oil into this panel either coolant or the oil out of the head somehow so I guess a question for you guys is is there a some sort of a I mean I see a drain plug yeah I see a drain plug right where my finger's at can't show you roll while I need to get a light and then this pipe here runs down to this filter and then comes back up he feeds this pump and then this pump pushes the oil back up to the head that way so I think the next step is going to be I'm going to pull this head off the cover for the top and we're just going to take a look in there and see if we can see anything [Music] oh all right I'm cleaning chips out of this thing just kind of like stuff that's been here forever and underneath the head there are just mountains of chips this thing was ridden hard and put away with more than once but better out than in I always say so we're going to get all those cleaned out of there is no bottom in sight more like in feel all right so when we Clean Machine Tools you don't really want to use a water-based product mainly because the tolerances in these things are so tight and if you have like a Degreaser in here and it gets between the ways and you don't get it perfectly clean which is very very difficult then what happens is rust starts to appear so we use a light oil for the majority of the cleaning mainly due to the fact that if it gets left in those spots then we don't have to worry about any rusting happening it just lubricates the moving surfaces so just something I've been doing for a long time and I really I think it works out well all right I've got all these unscrewed every one of these is the same length except for the one right over the chuck is slightly longer and then I don't know why but that one there came out kind of rusty all right can you take that just go that way put on the front punch well it looks nice in there so that is the inside of a Hydra shift Cincinnati lathe it's fully hydraulic essentially all of the functions for changing the speeds are hydraulically driven so it is dirty like see all that dirt in there I think the plan is going to be to clean up this top sum and then probably fill it up with diesel fuel run it get everything freed up then we'll drain it and potentially clean everything out in a way that we can get ensure that we're not going to have any dirt flowing through it and then we will fill it up with the right oil all right I want to clean in here I think I can take this top head off it's got the three shifter Forks there's four bolts here and then there's a line there here here and here and I believe it'll lift straight up and off it'll give us all kinds of access down in there so just get to disconnect it and hope I'm not wrong there's that one there's not a lot of oil in this thing I've there's like a lower sump section down there that I see some oil but up in that area I don't see much of any at all we take this out this ash this one this one we just got to be careful is that where is that line going there's that whole tube stay with it this whole tube might stay with it I can't today that was also the same length okay and this side is longer I've got that same size okay so closest to the Chuck or the shorter side closest to the back side of the machine is the longer ones my Danner boots there we go I will say it is pretty dang good looking in there so we look at all of the gears I mean there is a slight bit of a slight bit of dirt but down in here you can see there's some oil in that lower sump area not sure what that is some sort of a pump or something but it's got some uh italicy not bad so what I'm really looking for here okay what's that if you look right down there there's a hole you see it right there you see that hole right in the middle of the screen where's that go that is at the drain um there is a plug over there this is filter okay it's this one okay who's in Here Comes This no no it doesn't go into that it goes out okay so that hole is where the oil goes down through to the filter and then the filter brings up back up and comes through that line there [Music] which probably comes up to this t and goes into that head and dumps down into that cup to feed those looks like there's some clutches back there it doesn't look bad I mean there's no rust at all there's corrosion in regardless when you say what do you say it's corrosion I'd say there's just just build up and dirt really really great thing to see the one thing I definitely want to clean from the inside is the this oil level gauge I can't see it from out here all right there's a little copper tube right here and it goes right down to that site level glass let's see if this cleans it clean keep going am I taking off oil level I think so yeah we are okay so let's just note we need oil level at the middle so I'll make an a mark on the outside of the machine here but at least we can get that clean enough to at least use it it's really all I can get but way cleaner and now we'll make a mark on the machine all right we're going to open up this line here to the filter and see what we get not a lot so let's take the filter housing open it up a lot of that's the brake cleaner that is not much of a filter dang huh yeah that is literally just like a screen no big chunks in there I mean at least there's that [Music] um yeah that sticker's gone I'd love to save it but it's not gonna make it so I guess the plan will be hopefully we can reuse this rubber gasket we will clean these we got this little nut here from the bottom pretty sure it goes like that maybe and then there's a bolt from the top all right I'm gonna get all these wiped out cleaned out um I was thinking I'm gonna have to buy a filter for it but I guess we'll just clean that screen does seem like there is a crack in it though right there I don't know what's up more like a major particulate filter not just not necessarily A actual filter filter all right I didn't film it probably should have but I made a mess so I had this drain flop pan there and there's another drain plug right there so this drain goes down to the filter that one's just plugged so there was some oil still in there and where'd it go and then so this plug was there so I opened it up and there's really no good way it just oil just went straight down onto this all over here got some in the pan some under so I'm using all this oil dry to catch it and clean it up but I just wonder why why is that not come down 90 over to a T and then T into this tube going down to the filter am I wrong in assuming that we want everything filtered or is there some reason that that lower sump is just has a drain plug if you know or have any thoughts on that let me know in the comments I'm curious because it wouldn't be too hard for me to put in an elbow there straight piece of pipe and then a t straight down that would allow the oil from that sump to drain over tea into this pipe and then come right down and hit the filter or screen or whatever we're going to call that and then go back up and get pumped back onto the top side of everything all right so here's what I'm thinking to make that not a nightmare to change I'm going to add this pipe here so I've got an elbow that'll screw up into that drain plug spot a pipe over to a 90 and in that hole there we'll put the original plug so essentially it'll look something like that and then that will be in a place that I can put a bucket right below that and catch everything now you let me know your thoughts on uh on teeing all the oil over into this filter screen thing because that would be seems right to me I just I'm not an expert and on this one I'm not sure how these Hydro shifts use the oil and the two sums not even sure why there are two sumps but not relevant let's go ahead and add this drain pipe extension all right so here's our drain extension got the 90 already in the wrench oh all right that looks about right in our drain plug will already in there and we'll still be able to so the bucket essentially can get put right here that's drain for the screened oil can still get access there and I'm pretty sure the carriage will be able to get all the way in not hit that and we won't have to worry about this electrical wire it's not going to be a big deal and then our plug will essentially go right there and I'm just going to tighten that without any Teflon tape or anything pipe plugs are usually tapered slightly most pipe fittings are so leave it like this and then we're gonna start putting some diesel into the base of that thing perfect we've been working in this uh the head of the lathe here kind of detailing with toothbrushes and I've got about I don't know a few gallons of diesel in it and you can see on the oil level here that we're right about there so we're above halfway above full but it's looking pretty murky down there but my plan we're gonna put the head back on with the shifting forks and everything we're gonna power this thing up Let it pump that diesel through all of the passages all the cavities and then run it for a short bit that will clean out any additional dirt that's in all these copper tubes and all these Oilers and then we'll come back and we'll drain it out the back and that will give us hopefully a pretty dang clean um head here on the Hydra shift so let's get that top back on I have a feeling it's going to kind of be a little bit of a pain because you got to get all three of these shifting Forks one two three onto there's a gear right there you see that little notch there's a notch right there and a notch right there and then you gotta line up it for these four bolts and then there's uh obviously the copper tubes for for the fluid so I'm going to struggle but I will succeed all right let's try and get just pull it there for a second let's just lift this corner up I'm going to stick This Bar in there and try and get from there here get me I need a light I don't know if that wasn't me yeah sure on smooth light that far one's in place this one's in place this one we need to lift up slightly to get on should be I think a 5 8 and 9 16. all right I'm gonna get all these tightened down and we will get to starting this bad boy up all right it's time to power this baby up we've got the diesel fuel in the head and go ahead and make sure that so that pull this up and that engages the all right we've got three phase on we'll come back here power this to on and then we're in neutral so if I remember right this thing is a Squealer let's just go ahead and give it a oh yeah all right in order to actually run this thing through the gears and speeds I think we need to put the cover back on it's going to make a huge mess in here so I'm gonna wipe this down we'll get that top put back on and then we can literally just go through every single one of the speeds and then give us the ability to make sure that fluid gets through every passage that it normally sends it through and then we'll drain that diesel out and move on the bearing in the back of this motor here is squealing really really bad after we get everything drained out of it we're going to go ahead and put new bearings in this motor I assume that's all it needs but it's not too hard to pull it off I think we've got like a handful of bolts on this side and then I have to get these three belts off [Applause] few things figured out I got the uh the screw for the carriage re-engaged this this gear here had come uh come apart from this one so it wasn't actually powering the carriage so now we start it [Applause] [Applause] all right I think we've run this long enough with the diesel fuel in it let's take the cover back off we'll drain all the diesel out of it and get it prepared to put in the good oil so still having issues with some of the shifting I don't know if that matters I think it might be that it needs oil actual oil to run everything I'm not getting every one of these gears to actually operate um the spindle when it needs to so but for now let's get it drained and we'll go from there so the more I look at this and seeing how much oil and stuff it flings there was no gasket on this thing when I got it there's no gasket on the top I am betting it's missing a gasket and instead of it having a leak down below it literally just seeped the oil out everywhere over the time that it was uh in service eventually running out of oil I don't know it's probably not a good thing but I do know that this looks so much cleaner than it did when we were first messing with it all right here's our extended drain plug well I made a mess again it's spilled all over and I was trying to transfer it's better with that drain plug but I think what I really need to do is now is drop a straight pipe down to right here and then I can just stick something under then I don't have to like try and hold it because it was splashing everywhere making a big mess Ryan we get some of that oil dry but this is some dirty really dirty diesel so that is absolutely great thing to see that's that is all the junk that's been in that the head of that thing so that's the one side I'm gonna disconnect and open up this one and we'll drain that out and get get the rest of it out all right well we've got that all draining and kind of dripping out before we go any further I want to address the bearings in this motor so I think to get the belts off that motor there's four bolts here holding that motor to the to the machine you loosen these these three with the the little tracks and then the fourth ones where it pivots so the whole motor will pivot that way and then you can take this belt and the three main Drive belts off this bump belt here is for the uh oil pump and then you undo all four bolts all the way and we can pull the motor that way um I'm also going to take off the head again I'm going to look up exactly where everything should be when we have it in neutral so that I can install it exactly how it should be so that each one of these clicks is exactly where at the RPM it should be and I don't know for sure that I have it correct so I'm going to verify that but right now we're going to work on getting that off belts about garbage almost bad all right so now let's make sure everything's out of the way over there so we can get the motor out okay it can be free let me put it down on my leg s all right so we've got the motor on the bench I took the the fan shroud on the back off got the pulley off let's open it up and see what we're working with here it's a completely sealed motor like there is no openings at all other than the shaft that spins through the middle of it no air openings anywhere my bet is it's for you know situations where there's a lot of oil chips grease dirt they don't want all that stuff getting into the electric motor so let's pop this thing open and see what we're dealing with as far as Mo I want to figure out what the bearings are so we can replace them foreign [Music] oh my goodness airtight wow seriously for air time how is this even working holy mother I've opened up a lot of electric oh you like my glasses I've opened up a lot of electric motors and that thing is furry wow I don't even know if the growl is the bearings it might be all this crap holy crap just look at it would you just look at it look at this you want me to get it back in yeah get the vacuum see if we can save this motor I mean I know we can wow I'd say water definitely got in this old dog I don't think this is affecting anything majorly with the the lathe though other than the growl sound coming from the motor all right [Music] foreign [Music] wow wow I have opened up a lot of electric motors I don't even know how this was making power every one of those grooves between those Slants should be clear of any debris or many times you won't even get the circuit to be completed well I think it's safe to say that we needed to get in here for more than just the bearings but uh yeah that's nuts really there's tons more debris down the bottom every one of these should be a clear passage for air to flow around and I got most of them freed up this one's still got a bunch of white gunk in it that's okay though it works so I can't really well that's not true I could probably mess it up more but I'm not going to mess it up more we'll get this cleaned up laughs [Music] dick so I already opened this so these bottom two bolts would not come out I took some Heating and some impacting but as you can see as evidenced by the cocaine that has decided to spill out over the bench here we have a surprise you ready oh my goodness would you look at that again I really don't think I've ever seen that in an engine I'm sorry you're gonna give me crap I called an engine in an electric motor that actually works what in the world are we dealing with here I don't know but let's get the vacuum and let's uncover the treasures that abound us here in this uh wonderfulness [Applause] [Music] silence I see uh we have some exposed pretty much every one of these wires in here is exposed uh yeah the the outer sheathing is just cracking off oh didn't get it all I'm gonna cut that make ourselves a line anyone care for a line oh yeah there it is so Let's see we gotta clean this box out I've got to figure out a way to protect these wires I'm betting in this sheath a little further down there's some good enough wire to use I'm just seeing all the wires coming out of the actual electric motor here are not great to say it nicely now we could pull them apart throw some shrink tubing up over each one and that's probably what I'm going to end up doing I just got to figure out because of all these wires there are only three of them coming into this case and there are one two three four five six seven eight nine 10 11 12 wires in this box so one two three four different uh so we've got a we are wired low voltage so which means we are we are wired correct but all right well surprises never end I wasn't expecting it to be this bad I knew there was going to be some corrosion in here but goodness gracious I'm Gonna Keep uh chipping away at this incredible mystery the mystery being why and how did this engine or this motor run how in the world I just don't get it but I have to believe it because we all just watched it run so you have to believe it too it's astoundingly pretty amazing and the truest sense of the word awe inspiring all right suction I think that all of that corrosion was just like a beautiful little pillow around all of these wires and because this machine didn't move much it didn't matter as long as you didn't disturb it it worked we have Disturbed it I have got to figure out how to protect all these wires from each other all well not ruining or figuring having to figure out which wires or what because there is almost nowhere I can see that I can actually uh see numbers so I'm gonna have to take these apart one by one shrink two of them and put them back together getting all the all the pieces cleaned up and assembled ready to go back together when we opened up the motor housing we had all that wonderful white powder from the aluminum corroding but we also had most of the motor winding wires cracking and being exposed so my plan is to shove shrink tubing down on each of them and just heat shrink them covered I really don't want to spend the time or money to have somebody rebuild this all in all so far so good I guess we go we're going to try and get the motor fully cleaned out we'll get that put back together in the machine itself and maybe we'll get all our gears back we'll find out but for tonight it's getting late and we're gonna call it a night come back tomorrow yeah things had some water oh yeah that's dry as heck barely turning yeah definitely need to replace that one well at least these bearings aren't stuck on there they're coming off real easy that one's not any better maybe a little bit better but garbage so the wires on this thing now that we opened it up you see there's the coating there is cracking and I know they're not great but it was running fine So the plan is to take shrink tubing this is double wall with adhesive on the inside it shrinks down three to one and we will slip it over this all the way up into the motor housing like so and then shrink it on there and that'll hopefully protect it it's going to take some time to get it all done better than nothing I I really don't want to pay the 600 to a thousand dollars to get this motor rebuilt or rewound I guess so we're going to do what we can to save it especially since it was already running and working so that's what I'm working on now it's going to be a tedious process but but worth it all right one done and uh I think there's not eight more to go got all of these shrink tubed and ran the shrink tubing through the motor got all of those as nice as far in there to the motor windings as I could got the three leads for power coming out of the conduit there got those all nicely labeled it doesn't really matter usually with three phase for the most part you can hook up any one of the leads to any one of the three and it should work fine but I want to keep everything exactly how it was I am going to clean this motor a little bit more um I might run you know some sort of a wire wheel in here we'll get some more of the dust out not going to do a ton to it so I've got new bearings for the actual shaft there so we'll get those put on we'll get rid of these we'll drop it all back together and we're going to put it back on and try it I think we're gonna have a good running engine the hard part is is getting another one like this completely sealed identical is probably next to impossible so if this motor ends up having issues either I'll have it rewired or I'll literally just adapt a different motor to the machine to be able to run the machine but I I honestly think that we're going to be absolutely fine I mean we probably took five or ten pounds off of you know off the weight of the machine just do all the junk we pulled out of it as well as what is this as well as well as it was running before we took it apart I really don't see any reason why it's not going to run well now unless I messed up something here but I really think I didn't so let's get this all buttoned together is there a new bearing here's the old bearing there we go two brand new bearings got these all shrink tube over the top of the nut and bolt so they won't contact each other I'm gonna get these all tucked in here all right got it all cleaned out in there the wire wheel got most if not probably 90 of the junk out of it the wire's all ready to go so let's put this motor back together beautiful no noise all right there's a couple shims just gonna try and leave those in the case oh there we go perfectly silent no growling you know grinding you know 25 pounds of whatever the heck was in that thing so now I'll put this key back in all right that side's all done [Music] all right here we go perfect totally quiet you don't hear the motor at all spins freely that fan doesn't touch the case now all we have left is the rear cover goes on something like that all right so next up we're going to stab this thing back in there I am betting to get the belt off of this you probably have to pull that out pull this out and then loosen these two and then you can move the whole thing just slightly closer yeah and I don't want to ruin the new belt but this pump actually feels good nice and smooth that motor feels good silent we'll see if it makes power so I'm looking around digging around in this the head of Lathe here and I'm trying to find anywhere I think something doesn't look right well this here here not only does it move freely but it spins and so you can move it side to side and spin it that just seems wrong so I'm feeling around down here and I feel right below it two things we have we have a roll pin and we have a key for a keyway come to find out this this gear should be pinned there's a hole right there should be pinned and keyed to this shaft here to the shaft that this gear is on I'm thinking that we lost a lot of Gears due to that roll pin failing if this key weighs in and the roll pin is both in as well then the key can't come out if the roll pin falls out all this thing has to do is move far enough over and that the key itself can walk its way right out I think simple solution is we put the key back in I tried the key or tried the roll pin the roll pin is way too loose so I can just insert it it'll go in and out no problem so my plan is to gonna be to replace that with a thicker newer one and then reuse this key I am probably about 90 sure that's why I got such a deal on this machine I think they knew that this machine was junk or not working or they had no idea what was wrong with it and it took someone like me to actually dive in start cleaning it find its issues um to be able to actually diagnose and fix the problem I am not really worried about it at all I I've seen no evidence of anything being broken not the easiest to tell but that shaft right there has gotten hot and it started to bloom and maybe lose some of its hardness I don't know if it's a big deal I really don't think so and I think some of the grinding some of the long serrated marks on that that gear there the one that's that came unpinned and unkeyed I think those are just from Maybe Just Junk getting in there and kind of wearing it also could be the factory finish although looking at some of these other ones like like these right down here I don't think that's the factory finish over there on that one but you know if you look at this Factory finish on these two it's not perfect you do see the serrated marks um of the Turning tool but it isn't as bad as that gear that came on keyed so I guess the solution here for the short term is to replace the roll pin reinstall the key and then maybe go with it the only other issue I see is [Music] right right there there's a bearing that is slightly protruded and slightly sticking out of the case that way and I don't know if it should be all the way up against I mean on the other side there's actually a nut so it almost leads me to believe it's where it should be um I was trying to mess around trying to get this cover off because I'm betting these three covers are how you get the three main shafts and their and their gears out of the case I couldn't get it off um I got all the bolts out I just I don't want to break it so I think for right now I'm going to put it back together and simple solution is just put the put the key back in new roll pin and then we'll just try it so this is the roll pin that fell out in the head allowing the key to come out and essentially me so one of the gears on the intermediate shaft wasn't fixtured and could just float freely I've got my roll pin assortment here we're going to dig through this this is very important that this is the right length because this pin goes into a blind hole and what a blind hole is essentially it's a hole that there's no other side to it blind holes are largely used with bolts and things well the way this one works is it's pounded in and then you leave it flush with the gear and say you need to take it apart later you pound it all the way in to the center shaft that eliminates the connection between the Gear that you're attaching to that Center shaft and then you pull the gear off and that Center shaft has a through hole going all the way through that allows you to then punch this all the way through the outside because the gear itself only has one hole it doesn't have one on the other side this pin is not holding it it it's very loose in there so I think it's in this size range here obviously that's too long but it's important that it's the right length for the fact that it has to be able to punch into that Center shaft and if it doesn't then we're up creek and you know Drilling and grinding and whatever so this is kind of like my kit that I put together throughout the years a lot of these are just miscellaneous um roll pins I've gotten here and there and then these are some New Old Stock Dorman ones in the boxes but it's like it's in this size range those look right yep so that's the pin that came out of it right here those two those two look to be right there's another one keep it separate that one looks about same so I'm gonna pick one that looks the least amount used a couple of these do look kind of used like that one does there so we'll test fit it and I think I'm actually going to put it in with some red Loctite I don't see any issue with that I do not know why the pin came out so the bigger problem may be something else is loose I haven't found that culprit yet but for now the goal is to see if by putting this roll pin and that key back in do we get all the gears back so let's grab these we'll go test fit them we'll find one to replace that PIN and we'll see if it fixes our issue let me show you a little bit more what happened all right so this gear right there should be permanently fixtured to this intermediate shaft this is the middle shaft so that hole you see right there should have a roll pin in it and I've already cleaned up and reinstalled the actual key for that shaft that that Keys it fixtures it permanently to that intermediate shaft so since this gear here was not permanently fixture to that that shaft it allowed it to move and move even over this skier here and that in in a lot of situations made it so that certain gear ratios were not even able able to happen because that gear was in the way so now all we got to do is put a roll pin in that hole I just cleaned it with brake cleaner blew it out with air and we're going to throw it in with some red Loctite and see what happens now that we've figured that out we can guess move on um so let's get that pin in and we'll go from there I don't even know how much this is it gonna really even help but it'll make me feel better there we go got it flush with the gear there should be good to go I think we're ready to start putting the head back together and giving it a try got the whole head put back in with the shifting Forks the only thing that I am absolutely concerned about probably shouldn't be but is getting the right gear lined up with this selector I've been through the manuals there's no real procedure for essentially making sure that you have these in the right place I I don't exactly know you're supposed to have moved all of these Forks all the way to the right side and then put it in whatever gear that is and then tape the selector so it won't move I didn't do any of that and so I don't know if there's any procedure for making sure that these selectors are in the right place for this gear shifter because when this is out this selector can just kind of Freewheel it's just a gear on a shaft that engages to another gear on shaft on this head so I think what I can do is once it's running if I'm off say neutral turns out to be 190 I'll have to loosen these four bolts lift it up just slightly and then I can turn the gear on the head however many clicks I need to in the correct direction and then put this on neutral and then set it back down check it again I think that's what I'm going to have to do to kind of get it all lined up so whatever we are going to fill the head with a cheaper hydraulic oil it is an ISO 68 um I have a much better mobile light oil for this but the plan is I want to run this oil through kind of flush out the diesel there was a little die grinding I did on the keyway trying to get the the key into that gear so that we could uh re-attach that that gear on the shaft so we're going to run it with this for you know 10 20 minutes about the same kind of deal we did with the diesel fuel and then we'll drain it again assuming everything's working the way it should then we'll put the good oil in because the good oil oil is expensive this stuff is much cheaper I don't know I I'm really optimistic that we got everything kind of figured out that was wrong with it we'll see if the if the motor turns on and runs beautifully we'll see if we've got all the gears and shifting let's just get right in to put some oil in it as I'm pouring this in I'm trying to pour it all over all of the gears all the shafts that move anything that needs to be lubricated so we want to be right in the middle of that sight glass right there all right so let's turn the three phase on by doing that on the power to the back of the box all right we should be live see if we uh make sure we're in spindle is disengaged [Music] that runs [Music] well neutral is not the gear and if we run it like this we're going to make a big mess but [Music] okay well we know a couple things we know the motor sounds beautiful and it still works so it's not grinding the bearings solved that cleaning that thing out was a big deal and every time I selected a different speed it changed now obviously we don't quite know if it's going to engage and I don't want to keep engaging it and just having a shower or a fluid here so uh let me show you exactly how the shifting Works let's start this let's take it foreign so we've gone through every gear you see how those shifting mechanisms work every time you shift a gear it hydraulically moves these three levers which in turn moves the gears down in there to get to the right gear you need and all of these copper lines are all eulers so there is an auxiliary or a little hydraulic pump right down in the case here and then there's the main one on the side where we replace the green belt the main one on the side feeds up here and basically goes into this control block and it feeds the head and all of these lines are then basically engaged to at certain times spray extra fluid on certain gears in certain speeds um and so the other little pump I'm not exactly sure what it does but I'm pretty sure it just gives additional fluid on the back side so far though everything is looking great um everything's moving well everything sounds good um yeah this is looking awesome so I'm gonna wipe this down we're going to put the top back on it and then we can shift the speeds and figure out where our neutrals are because there's actually two there's one here one on the other side we think that it's a high and a low speed neutral I actually honestly don't know if it really matters um but whatever we got to figure out where those are and determine how we get our speeds right so we're going to set this on here with no gasket I need to get some more gasket material and then we'll make a new gasket for it but for now we just want to run it check it test it foreign I'm not sure what speed we're in [Applause] I know for sure we're not in neutral there's neutral at least one of them so the way you're supposed to ship these if it works correctly you shift it wow the spindle is engaged and it should not shift until after you disengage the spindle like that [Applause] that has got to be [Applause] that has to be 25. I think we are 180 and one spot out that's got to be the slowest so if we go to the other neutral we go over to 34. now we disengage the spindle break it should shift and then you want to slowly bring it up [Applause] all right 25 is neutral let's go ahead and try all these speeds we'll shift it we'll go to neutral [Applause] [Applause] foreign go back up there's our neutral [Applause] [Applause] [Music] thank you I think this is this next one 980 this next spot here I think that's going to be fastest speed yep [Applause] this one should be neutral yep this one should be low and slow so far we're getting every gear every speed there we go every one of them works yeah buddy I'm so pumped about that we just took this machine from being completely useless to running like a top shifting exactly how it should at the high speeds I hear some grinding over here on this end but we'll look at that later all right so here's a diagram of the speed dial essentially you've got a neutral on either end and then you've got your low speeds and your high speeds so right now our neutrals are here and here at 190 and at 25. So currently the way it's set up is this neutral here is 130 on back so then we got 94 68 48 34 and 25 which makes this side of it yeah 190. 258 360 5 18. 700 the fact that this neutral is wrong is what was throwing me and then that neutral is 980. so we are basically 180 out and one notch so I can count that and I can know that when I take this head back off I have to lift that off and I have to twist the gear inside the actual head with the shifter Forks we have to move this neutral here that sits next to the 190 down here so we have to open up the head undo the bolts the gear in the head I need to twist it one two three four five six rotation six places essentially of where the gear actually sits and that will bring our neutral down here for that's sitting next to the 190 and it literally takes these gears puts them on the other side brings that neutral down here up to this side and then we'll have all of the gears correct on this dial before I go doing that though I'm going to see if I can if there's anything in this gear here on this shifter inside I can just pull the dial off put the dial in a different spot that might work don't know but that's kind of the situation we're in we're just figuring out as we go so you can see all the oil that's kind of leaked already back behind that head from the fact that there's no gasket so I definitely believe that our missing oil in this machine happen due to the fact that somebody put it back together with no gasket on the head and over time running it just leaked it all out hopefully it didn't run anything too hot that it threw this thing out of true but I guess for right now we're just trying to get it mechanically working and we'll check all the how accurate the lathe is once we get to the point where we're happy with it all right so I've got the the shifting head pulled up it has this little spring loaded basically Paul that keeps the gear from moving so it kind of Moves Like This and it has a little little uh thing right in the bottom right there that engages with one of those teeth all right so we're currently at 25 on the dial and we need to go six clicks that way which would be one two three four five six that gets us to that neutral and this dial will just Spin and that's kind of what got me off so we want to be on that neutral on the dial but that also means I need to move that gear six clicks that way I guess it would be this way but it has to turn that way so there's one click two clicks three clicks four clicks five clicks six clicks okay so now we want to lower it okay it is locked into neutral so let's bolt this back down and we'll try it again so I made a mistake I did six turns on that gear but I also did six turns on this which basically canceled one another out so I'm gonna do it again and I actually don't think I even need to move that gear I can just move the dial okay let's try that foreign [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] remember [Applause] yeah beautiful all right went through all the high gears and back to neutral now we're gonna go 25 on up so this next gear should be our slowest gear oh and slow shift to 34. stop the spindle break it 48 . neutral beautiful every gear works the dial is now correct yeah I'm excited so I think I got a couple things going on here this belt is not tight all the way so I need to tighten the small belt up and then in the high gears there's some sort of a noise on this end I'll show you so this will be 980. [Applause] it sounds like there's some sort of a bearing in here that's going bad all right I think that whatever gear bearing this has inside this collar here is is not any good anymore so that'll be an easy you pull this nut off I believe and the whole thing should come off yeah but all in all man we are uh Leaps and Bounds Beyond where we were when we started here she runs all right I'm kind of messing with this gear trying to figure out what the what's going on it doesn't have a roller style bearing um it literally just has a bronze Bush ink so there's this little nut goes into this little cover and then there's a bolt that goes through this arm right there that the nut threads onto so that bolt can move like that so it can adjust to this gear in this gear and then on the back side of this you have that bronze bushing in there riding on this surface that that nut basically centers onto so ideally this should not spin and also shouldn't make contact when this is all the way tight so it might be a little tight there I'm not sure the other thing I mean this bushing that bearing surface does not look bad at all and it's very very very tight which is what you want no play but yet loose enough to use I feel like I'm missing a piece so if I crank that down like that start it I'm gonna put it in the highest gear [Music] all right well it made a little difference when I undid this nut but if I leave it that way then it's just going to back its way off um I'm wondering if maybe I'm a little too tight up against this gear so that is an adjustment between this and this well it was a little bit better I had it tight so you didn't even have that kind of play and it'll go tighter I think it should be tighter but I think it was making noise right at these two gears I don't know we'll have to measure the run out we'll have to see if it actually matters I think it does or it will but is it going to be good enough for me probably well what do you think of the old Hydra shaft this thing is not only looking amazing and I am probably about 90 positive this is the original paint this gray this machine for its age being built in 1959 is an incredibly good shape um I think it sat for a lot of years because that key fell out of the head and the gearing went away and then for whatever reason it got water or something into the electric motor there so we fixed the motor got that all cleaned up with the bearings replaced brand new belts all four of them there still got a tension smaller one a little bit more because it's kind of slipping a bit something's going on in this area with this gear in regards to creating some noise which I think will end up affecting the accuracy of Parts because it will come through the headstock but I'll deal with that later for now we got it clean it's completely operational every function works you need to get a gasket made for this uh top cover because this machine had almost no oil in it when I got it and I truly believe that most of it leaked out around the edges seeped down the whole head throughout the years and then eventually it had no oil and it left which maybe that led to something happening with the intermediate shaft there where that key came out of the gear I'm not sure I know right now I'm not too worried about that I would kind of be curious if anyone has any ideas why that key would have come out why that roll pin could have fallen out maybe that gear got hot enough that it expanded enough the roll pin could just fall out once that happened that keyway wasn't really being held by much and all the mechanisms moving side to side could easily have kicked that that key out but the goal here is to get this machine operational and usable just like the mill there so at least these two main machines are ready to rock and roll for all of the heavy equipment and all of the other machine repairs that I need to do to all these machines we've been rescuing all right we got the lid here for the lathe and we're going to make a quick gasket for it because I truly believe one of the issues this thing had was it was leaking all the oil out and when I got it never had a gasket on this surface but before we do that we're going to run a file across all these surfaces actually and get this out so I can lay it flat we're going to run a file just kind of like this and as long as you're putting pressure on two different Flats you'll stay pretty parallel and we're going to try and knock off any any Burrs and clean it up just a slight bit then we'll hammer out a new gasket [Music] thank you foreign I've got this bolted through all the holes so it shouldn't move so we're gonna we're gonna hammer out the middle [Laughter] foreign T ladies and gentlemen is how you make a gasket that is unobtainium so got that made and that should fix all of our oil leak problems so I'm really pumped about that all right I got this all cleaned up in order to keep the gasket in place we're gonna use a little Grease it'll also take up any imperfections in the castings and help it seal better this is my absolute favorite way to make a gasket you get the gasket perfect it fits exactly how it should there's no excess hanging out it's quick it's faster than scissors it's faster than a utility knife all you really need is a ball peen hammer and maybe a knife just for some trimming but a ball peen hammer would do all this all by itself without a knife and get this on there hopefully that seals up for us thank you foreign [Music] [Music] we'll do a quick test make sure everything works right guys in neutral nothing should happen we'll go all the way up to 980 [Music] . [Applause] already I'm not seeing any more leaks so I think the gas could definitely sealed and it's back on neutral there we go all right well I'd say that gasket definitely made a big difference so we've got no oil leaking around the head at all every gear every uh speed selection works perfectly you should be able to twist this while it's running and not have it shift until after you disengage and break it so once you use the brake and you slow it down and get it to stop completely then it sees a pressure drop and when it sees that pressure drop it goes ahead and shifts to whatever you selected on the dial here and I didn't have to set any of the pressures in there there is a procedure in the manual for doing that I was fully expecting to have to do that but it is functioning a hundred percent so I'm not going to worry about that at all I really think at this point we need to get it nice and hot we're going to change the oil and put in a much better oil and we needed to make a cut with it we need to make something my thought is to you know just see what it can do probably gonna have to do more of this I'd like to add a Dro to it I'd like to add you know coolant possibly there's some a few other attachments I'd like to have um but for right now I just wanted to get it operational I do need to find I would really like to find a steady rest for it I don't have a steady rest that works on this lathe because I have some things I need to work on that a steady rest would be really useful for let's just keep going forward with it and we'll get it ready to use [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] not real happy with that surface finish I think we're gonna speed it up a little bit and try and take another cut and see what that does we're running at 360 RPM this is mild steel so you typically want to be around 400 the next one up will take us to 518 so it'll be a little bit faster but we'll see how it goes [Music] foreign much better much smoother [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Applause] there we go foreign simple tool we made here was a stepped punch each and every one of these is a different diameter and just gives you the ability to use this in different settings punch things out of holes deep recessed anything I threw a quick knurl on the handle just for some grip and yeah from a piece of scrap iron to Now useful tool that I can throw in the bench throw in the toolbox and have uh with me anywhere I want to go I think we've proven that the lathe works it still needs some fine tuning I still need to go through the carriage I need to go through the apron a few other things gotta change the head oil over to the good oil and I mean that that motor whisper quiet now absolutely awesome things running great there's a few little odds and ends for today I think that's all I got for you it's been a long process getting this old machine to where it is now mainly because I've just got a million projects but as is life now we have a fully functional operational engine lathe that goes through all the gears and is a hundred percent I am totally pumped to have it between this and the milling machine that is not ruined man there is almost nothing we can't make here at Salvage Workshop so if you enjoy this kind of content if you enjoy shop projects like this definitely let me know in the comments it helps me really determine the kind of videos that I put out here on the channel um yeah I've got a lot more like it if that's something you want to watch make sure you let me know hit that like button subscribe if you're willing beyond that thank you for your time I truly appreciate it and I look forward to catching you guys on the next project here at Salvage Workshop take it easy

Channel: Salvage Workshop

Views: 1,051,683

Keywords: Rescue, Forgotten Machines, abandonded, vintage, antique, will it run, junk, abandoned, heavy equipment, Restoration, DIY, satisfying, project, restore, metalworking, repair, phase converter, 3 phase power, restaurar, restauration, restauracion, machinist, mechanic, hooking up machines, Lathe, machine repair, Will it start, Cincinatti, Cincinnati, Hydrashift, Hydra Shift, Hydra-Shift, metal turning, electric Motor repair, Milling machine, millwright, Moving a lathe, Lathe maintenance, machine shop

Id: vlGNq4l-2uU

Length: 119min 26sec (7166 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 13 2023