How To Replace Subaru Leaking Headgaskets SOHC EJ25

do you want a naturally aspirated Subaru well guess what your head gaskets are probably leaking we're gonna show you how to fix them now I actually know nothing about leaky Subaru engines but we've gotten am here at envy auto teach it's all about them so what it is about these single overhead cam engines that make them leaky it's the actual faulty gaskets themselves I mean series never really disclosed exactly why they're leaking or what's actually leaking yeah I just found that the gaskets himself that are leaking okay so it's a gasket issue it's not a physical problem with the motor you just theoretically need to put a new gasket in there and the problem should be solved or yes and machine the heads machine the heads for sure that's an important stuff key in the heads cleaning them making sure everything is still in proper spec okay I should be able to get these back up and running perfectly so this came out of a subaru forrester no five I think that was saying oh five C 2005 Subaru Forester naturally aspirated single cam and this problem runs from was it 98 to 2013 well 1999 to about 2013 sold last when I've seen what head gasket leak but I mean some of these 14 aren't even up their mileage yes alright sure so pretty much the naturally aspirated single / cami J 25 are likely to have this problem yes the majority low okay I did gloss over one important step and that's pulling the engine out of the car we'll cover that in detail in another episode but now that the engines out and honest and it makes a lot easier for an am to do his things first thing we got to do is take the crank pulley off it's a 22 mil with a half inch gun wrap it off and what you want to do each one just thread it back in a couple threads and try to pull the crank pulley off a lot of times it gets a little bit stubborn so you want to grab two and just slowly walk it out without damaging the timing cover the crank bolt there assures that it doesn't fall out next up what you need to do is take the timing cover off with all the 10 mils you can see on this one it's very rusty so you got a lot of stubborn bolt and I'm going to need to use an extract take these off put the extractor on the kosaka and twist the boat off so now with all the bolts off the timing covers I could take the cover off set it aside and that leaves access to the timing belt which we have to take off in order to take the cylinder heads out so now that the cover is off what we want to do is set the timing marks to where they're supposed to be before we take the belt off first step is to take this cover off ten mil I come loose I want to do is take the crank bolt put it back in put the 22 millimeter socket turn the engine until the marks line up while you're on de chillon line up the center sprocket mark to the oil pump the marks on the cams to the cover on this side and on the right side the mark of this cam to the cylinder head track and loose all the pulleys these pulleys and bail will be replaced when we put the engine back together this time and cover is going to need to get removed in order for the cylinder heads to come out so what we want to do is zap off the cam bolt just run it back in by finger now we remove all the pulleys in order for the belt to come off slowly work the belt off the rest of the components slip right off just like that now we remove the cam sprocket pull it aside so we could take this cover off and the other timing cover off as you can see these had Loctite on them so we're going to need to Loctite these when we put them back in carefully pull the cover off set it aside and this cover up so now that all the front stuffs taken off you gotta take the intake manifold off in order to take these cylinder heads off with the magnet you could take all these bolts out it makes it easier for you to remove the intake manifold next step remove the coolant lines from the throttle body disconnect the knock sensor and on some of these single read camps they have an EGR so you're going to need to remove the EGR pipe so you can take the intake manifold off completely but I don't like to disconnect too many things so I just like to lift it off the intake off the cylinder head there jamm a piece of wood underneath just to elevate the intake manifold off the cylinder head for removal you just take dipstick off slide to the side just out of the way next step what you want to do is tilt the engine and remove a rocket cover and we're gonna remove these grommets which will be replaced when we put the onion back together slowly break the seal so next what you want to do is crack off the head bolts in reverse order of how they're supposed to be installed so we start off on on this left bank here we start off on the right side of the cylinder head to the left bottom right bottom left top center bottom and center top and what you're gonna need is a 12 12 point 40 millimeter socket in order to remove these once all the bolts are all cracked off loosen them off of the gun and there's dowels on this block that's preventing this head from coming off what you want to do is take the bolts throw them in your template as you can see this is cylinder number two cylinder number four top of the engine bottom of the engine front of the engine the rear of the engine same thing on cylinder one and three as you can see the center bolts are black compared to the silver ones on the side the center ones require more torque in the specs so you shouldn't mix them up grab the cylinder head with two hands and walk it off lay it on the bench on the rocker side down at this time with the cylinder head on the bench you could start inspecting the surface area any carbon buildup or even broken valves and what I like to do is with a couple washers with the cam sprocket bolt put it back in turn the cam so it's off load so after wiping down the head you could see some of the failure points from the head gaskets and I also noticed a lot of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber and I've also noticed that this valve on this exhaust for cylinder number four has a stuck open valve with the light in the port you could see the light coming out of the valves seat so like I say again it's a must that you send these to the machine shop there's no way you can throw these back in without getting them decked or plane as you can see what the build-up of the old gaskets here if you were to put these back in with the new head gaskets and not having these sent to the machine you will have these fail again very soon trying to move on to the other side need to turn the engine the other head is up this sights the same as the other side except you don't have to remove the cam sprocket because it's not in the way of the machining and it's already free-floating now with both heads off and send up the machine shop for measurement and planing and now that the heads are back from the machine shop we had to clean all the surfaces in order for the heads to go on so to clean the intake manifold I like to use a razor blade scrape off all the hard stuff and then use a scotch pad to clean the surface nice and smooth now that the intake manifold is clean we're going to do the same to the block cleaning then with the razor blade and with the scotch pad after we've cleaned it with the scotch pad we'll use some brake clean on a rag and lightly wipe down any of the old debris so now we're going to flip the engine so it can green we do that I like to spray some brake clean up in these on the block at this time I can do the other side of the block and the other side of the intake manifold now that everything is clean I like to apply a little bit of oil into the cylinder walls just to help with the initial startup so for the head gaskets that we use here we like to use the STI head gaskets because we know the old single cam head gaskets still have issues with head gasket leaks now we'll drop the gasket onto the dowels onto the block with the freshly machine cylinder head slowly put it into place one by one we'll take these head bolts out of the template clean them up with brake clean air dry them and apply some assembly Lube just a light coat just to catch the threads and apply on to the washer so there's no friction when you bolt down the heads so it's important to note that the black coated head bolt must go in the center of the block so take the ratchet and just whine these in by hand until they slightly bottom out making sure we followed the super spec properly we go as subbu shows here that the bolt pattern goes a b c d e and f in that order it's very important that you follow the procedure specifically to your subaru every spec is different for every year and every meet some of them are the same but make sure you look it up accordingly to your specific model and engine first step take all the bolts in order to 22 foot-pounds [Music] now all the boats 251 foot-pounds [Music] then back them off 180 degrees in reverse order and another 180 then tighten it up 31 foot-pounds and the next step they want us to tighten up these head bolts a certain degree so we need to mark these with some paint just at the top here first step with the angles you want to go 90 degrees on all the bolts then 45 degrees on all the bolts lastly the two Center bolts another 45 degrees and as you can see that the center bolts are both at 180 degrees from where they started and the outer bolt are at 135 degrees now with the brake clean we could wipe off the marks on the bolts with the valve covers clean we apply the new gasket and the new pipe seal seals onto the head lay the valve cover on and install the bolts which come with new grommets so it's very critical to use brand new gaskets seals and grommets last thing you want is for this to have oil leaks and I like to torque these valve cover bolts to about nine foot pounds and now we can install the spark plugs into the cylinder head we like to use the ng K's which have the Subaru specific with a specific heat range now that this size completely done we're going to turn the engine over to the other side and do the same procedure on this side now the left sides done we're going to strain out the onion on the stand once again you got to make sure you use brand new gaskets for the intake manifold so that way there's no leaks or no surprises down the road let the intake manifold up put the new gaskets in the dowels now with the intake manifold lined up what the needlenose you could start putting in the intake manifold bolts so before we torque down the intake manifold bolts we're going to reinstall the EGR pipe all right torquing the intake manifold bolts to 18 foot pounds from the inside out now connect all the accessories in the sensors for the intake manifold and install the PCV hose on both valve covers spray the wires with silicone stall them on to the spark plugs now we install the dipstick tube onto the cylinder head install the left inner timing cover and then install the left-hand chain sprocket make sure you torque the cam sprocket to 58 foot-pounds now install the right-hand inner timing cover when you have the onion all apart like this is the perfect time to replace the timing belt all the components and the water pump so we're gonna clean the surface on the water pump here so before we put the water pump on the engine will install the thermostat with the bleeder facing forward which is the highest point on the water pump and we'll install the water pump with a brand new gasket as well I ended up into the holes now torquing the water pump nine foot-pounds now let's install the idlers and tensioner for the timing belt top idler and on the single cam timing belt kit you'll see that there's a difference between a smooth idler and an oiler with the flange the idler with the flange goes on the bottom right idler and the one for the water pops you just want to put in about two or three threads and from this side on the right head you want the sprocket to line up on what are the casting meets on the crank on the sprocket there's a mark in the center line that up with the water with the oil pump on the left side the red mark lined up with the timing cover put the timing belt on the crank on to the left cam now the right head what you want to do is gently push the timing belt into the idler and start tightening down the idler and on the last either you want to just put it underneath the belt here and slowly walk the boat in with the ratchet and now tighten the water pump one all the way in then torque the tensioner to 29 foot-pounds and all the idlers so before we pull the pin on the tensioner we want to double check all the marks make sure the mark on the crank sprocket is lined up to the oil pump the right side cam sprocket to the casting left side cam sprocket to the timing cover and then pull the pin for the hydraulic tensioner and now we rotate the engine to full revolutions making sure that the crank sprocket is on the oil pump right side cam sprocket mark on the casting and the left side mark lined up to the timing cover and for the manual transmission vehicles you want to install the crank guide using the gate guide tool so i'm just laid in between the guide and the belt tighten up the ten mil torquing them down to seven foot pounds and pull in the guide oh and like I said on the manual transmission cars they have this timing belt guide on the oil pump the only reason why they have it on - just the manual transmission car is for preventing the timing belt from skipping when the driver stalls the vehicle now that all the marks are lined up and everything's torque the spec you could go and install the timing covers with a little copper spray on to the threads in the bulk start running them through with your fingers and now remove the crank pulley bolt a little bit of copper spray on the harmonic balancer install it into the keyway reinstall the pulley bolt and what just lightly zap this into the crank oh and we'll torque this to 120 foot-pounds once the engines in the car and lastly we're going to install the alternator and AC bracket that is a wrap on our head gasket job here at enviado it's a big job guys I don't know if I'd want to tackle that one myself but with all the info that master named here has given you you could do it

Channel: Speed Academy

Views: 1,173,992

Keywords: Subaru, head gasket leak, head gasket, replace, repair, how to, step by step, EJ25, EJ20, impreza, forester, legacy, 2.5L, 2.0L, SOHC, single overhead cam, DIY, video, what gasket to use, water pump, timing belt, timing diagram, WRX, STI, leaking head gasket subaru, replacement, outback, 2.2L, turbo

Id: oZk3GQcp5Z4

Length: 22min 22sec (1342 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 23 2018