SUBARU Engine Rebuild - EJ20 / EJ25 Teardown How To

welcome to our Subaru engine build series presented by Valvoline today we're gonna show you how to tear down the engine if you guys have watched any of our other subaru content that you'll recognize NAMM he's the master technician here at enviado he specialized in Subarus he's built a lot of these motors we've torn down a lot of these motors - yeah yeah we might just use the word right now a ring land so this is our ej20 it is a JDM motor that Pete picked up very inexpensively we know that it has some problems and we're about to find out through Nan's expertise what those problems are so you were telling us earlier that this EJ turbo motor is pretty much the same as any of the any of the turbocharged dual will react pretty much the same even some through the order eg a turbocharged Enya so even up to the newer ones now they're pretty much all the same mechanically so just a couple of details you know difference from this to a usdm engine but pretty much all the same so if you have a 2.5 liter motor this rebuild series will help you guys with that as well as any of you - later guys all right now where do we start we're gonna start off by tearing the intake man foot off and then maybe the timing cover and then we'll take the heads off and we'll strip it down to the block and sure that all apart first ever done news we're gonna take the intake manifold off so we have to do is just connect all the electric connectors you got to be very careful some of these special in GTI menus they get very brittle with the wire and the connector so it's got a mission you know how to properly disconnect everything for example this one's got a broken connected to some reserved you attempt it to take it off so a big difference between this and the USDM engine is this is drive by cable the majority of the onions coming out of Japan or drive by cable whereas the USDA onions are dried by wire so now that all the hoses are disconnected and all the electrical connectors have been disconnected off the intake manifold we're going to go and take off the bolts for the intake manifold using a magnet will pull up all the intake manifold bolts and then we'll take the intake manifold off let's put it on the bench look at that so did we do a good thing by going for a 2-liter versus a 2/5 yes these are we find they're more reliable than the 2/5 the actual block itself as much victor in the water jackets and the two fibers so can these take more boost or ref higher like other this could take more boost more abuse we find that they're much better for you know track use or even everyday use and you don't have the fear of the ring land issues like the u.s. diem25 nice and since we want to make some serious power with this motor I think we maybe made a wise choice the AC bellacrest loosen the bolt for the crank pulley big butters that is wiggle off there see I'm helpful after all remove the covers and voila so now we remove the timing guide at the crank pulley the way we could access the marked for the crank sprocket to the oil pump why is that important now so we're gonna set this now so we make sure that the valves don't hit as soon as you release the timing belt I'll show you once we get the marks all lined up this will get the Pistons off our Pistons at the center of the block so that way if you do have any valves floating with the cams being loaded it doesn't make contact with the top of the Pistons and possibly bender okay now using the factory pull want to put it back inside the crank the 22 mil wrench just line up the crank marks here on the crank sprocket to the mark on the oil pump and then you can see that the marks on the cams Rockets all lined up as well they line up to the cover here the duel marks line up close to each other the marks on this side same thing on the right side of the engine and at this time we could start loosening off the boats for the idlers now with the idlers and the tensioners all off you remove the timing coat all right so now with the belt off you can see that this side the cam is not loaded at all but this side on the left side the cam is loaded so what we're going to do is on the bottom and we're going to slowly with a 10 mil allen key just release the load off the cam and now it's smooth freely and on this side we need to remove the eight millimeter caps and with your fingers out of the way we'll take these off load now we're going to remove the exhaust manifold now we'll tilt the engine to one side now removing the valve cover now we're gonna remove the timing belt tensioner bracket in order to get the inner timing cover off now we need to remove the bolts that hold the sprocket on to the camshaft this is the most stubborn thing on a Subaru and because there's so many different in cam sprockets throughout the years Subaru does make a tool to hold it in place in order for you to crack these bolts loose but even sometimes I find that those don't work luckily if you can see here on the JDM and use if you have a hex on these cam shafts which will allow you to put a wrench on there to hold the cam while you crack the loose on the USDM just though they don't have that so you either have to get the proper tool to remove it which a lot of manufacturers do make the tools now or there is another way that you can hold the cancer Achatz to crack them loosely off the ground so now what they've had a little bit more leverage with the pipe and try again why not an impact on that oh there goes their problem with an impact gun especially if it sees is that you'll actually get in there won't be enough torque to actually crack loose and you'll just damage the bolt which then you'll have to either grill it out or you have to cut it out with the torch now that both of these bolts are loose and pull them out like this and as you can see that on the cam sprocket with the ABC s that there's an actual hole inside and that's the oil relief hole for the EECS whereas this side doesn't have the hole and you can see that they are different lengths as well on the USDM 2.5 with the dual ABC s you'll actually have four of these bolts on the engine I'm just gonna slide these sprockets out now we can remove the inner timing cover bolt remove the cover and now we're going to remove all the components that are still attached to this left head which is the pipe the bowl for the pipe for the water pump the dipstick the ABC s oil feed line the cam sensor the ABC s solenoid and the rear cam sensor there's gonna pop the EBS solenoid out and a lot of times these things are pretty stubborn they do have an o-ring in there that keeps the oil inside the head you see this ol rings all destroyed now we're going to crack the bolts loose for the cam caps so what I like to do is I like to crack loose the ones in the center first then the back ones then the front cam caps once all the boats are off I like to take them off carefully set all the bolts aside put the caps down just give it a bit of a tap to break the seal and at this time we could remove the camshafts now using a twelve point fourteen millimeter you want to crack loose the head bolts in the reverse order of the installation which means we're going to crack them loose going one two three four five six so now that they're all cracked please you could start zapping them off so it's very important once you have these head bolts out that you don't lose any of these buckets or drop them by turning the engine as you can see here these buckets all have different sizes or the thickness for the lifters so in order to keep the buckets all intact when we remove the head all we want to do is want to reinstall the camshafts this is the moment of truth let's see what kind of a hot mess we've got under the head here they're gonna be holes in the Pistons we're gonna vent valves well a lot of carbon buildup you see anything scary in here not yet but once we pull the Pistons out of the bores then we'll have a better idea but other than that looks pretty good but remember this is only two of the silicide to go [Music] it's time for the second moment of truth this weird motorized - seller heads let's crack it open and see what we got inside here well no holes in those pistons either PT that's a good sign I may have spoken a little too soon this cylinder head looks good but this one you found some dynasty damaged shine the damage on the seat on the head over here as you can see we'll just pull the valve out here and we'll just compare these two valve seats you can see the difference between a good valve seat and a seat that's got damage on it yeah big chunks missing out of that seat which would obviously cause a loss of compression the good news is though that we're sending both of these heads off to head games Motor Works in New Jersey the head man there Dave like a Leo is gonna do a pocket port on these and pull up put a full GFC valve train in and at the same time they'll obviously putting some call seats in - so now that the heads are all off we're gonna take care of the thing all the components apart that's off the engine that way we could split the block and get to the crankshaft in the rod [Music] we're down to the bare short block yes yeah what's next before we can crack this thing open so before I crack it open we're just gonna loosen up all the bullets a little bit easier loosen them while it's on the stand that is to fight it on the table okay so I want to crack everything loose these plugs are to access the wrist pin clips now we'll crack loose the case bolts the assembly and now on both sides there are 12 point 12 millimeter case bolts one here one here a couple of them inside on this side and more on this side so now that it's all stripped down and what do we get at a chisel how do we crack this thing open no so right now there's still two more bolts to remove one in the back here and then one on the bottom of the block right at the bottom here so we have to remove these two first before we could split the case so being how this is not like a regular v8 or a v6 or like an inline for these connecting rods can't be the fastener for the connecting rods can't be loosened while they're in the engine so unfortunate we have to take them separate the Pistons from the rods before we could even split the block so as I showed you earlier in the front you have the two access panel access panels that were removed now we have to take off the exped on this side and on this side in order to get to the back piston and wrist pins see them as a front you got another access plug here that needs to remove so now we'll rotate the crank so we get access to the wrist pin clips as you can see there and at this point you get to both front clips and we'll remove them with these clips will get replaced when you put new pistons in so in order to remove the piston wrist pin we're gonna have to punch it out from the back which we can get to the access hole here so in order to get the wrist pin out of the piston we're gonna have to dry with a screwdriver through the access plug and push the risk and out the other side so now that we've got the piston risk pin out we just have to do it for the other three cylinders to get them all out it is officially time to split this puppy open is there any tricks to this we need to start yanking on it so we're gonna have to lay it on this side and we're gonna have to just work the this half off we gotta fire a lot of work on this one especially being an older engine some of the newer ones it's a little bit easier split but you have to apply some force on this to get it up but without damaging the case half okay oh there she goes woo the strange concept to peace engine block but clearly it works that it are we ready to go that's it if you want we could pull this out so what are you seeing her Nana are the condition of the bearings and the crank looking okay they don't look too bad I mean there's no bat scoring no heat you know there's no thermal yeah exactly so it looked pretty good but we are replacing them with better bearings anyways right so I'll show you how to take these bearings out just gotta pull them off like then they just slide right out this is dove from enviado he's gonna be doing the actual engine building for us so you've had a look at what you've seen so far do you think we have a good core to work with yeah yeah it looks good we're gonna bore the cylinders out they still have cross hatching in them so it's not terrible okay they measure them yet but physically they love it okay with it alright so now that we know we've got a good core what's the plan for the rebuild we're gonna use our time attack drift 2 2 stroker setup okay using so many different cars so J Pistons k1 rods k1 crank ok the 95 Mel stroker crank and of course Dave's gonna treat the heads like you guys for us in all the race motors so once we have all those parts together and the heads back from head games we put this thing together that is a wrap on this EJ turbo disassembly video very exciting about what's still to come I want to thank Andy Otto for the time in helping with the disassembly and by helping I mean doing it all I also want to thank Valvoline for making this all possible make sure to go check out team Valvoline by the way if you want some more technical content in your life including some videos that Pete and I made so go check those out and be sure to go to speed Academy's shop if you need some go fast parts or watch them over our merchandise it's all there waiting for you [Music]

Channel: Speed Academy

Views: 856,222

Keywords: Subaru, EJ25, EJ20, engine rebuild, Subaru STI, Subaru WRX, Subaru Impreza, Subaru Legacy, turbo, engine failure, rod knock, ring land, how to, diy, step by step, diasassembly, teardown, DOHC, SOHC

Id: xldUvBo-fcI

Length: 18min 12sec (1092 seconds)

Published: Wed Jan 23 2019