How To Change A Subaru DOHC EJ20 EJ25 Timing Belt

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if you own an EJ 25 base subaru you know eventually you're gonna have to do the timing belt thanks to the boys here at enviado we're gonna show you exactly how to do it before master nan gets to work on that 2010 forest your XT which is a turbo EJ 25 it's a wax motor it's basically the same engine that comes in the WRX or a Legacy GT right which isn't different really that much from an STI modern pretty much an STI I mean all these components and all that stable if you have any of those cars this is relevant to you and here are the parts that you're gonna use on this swap what do we have here uh well basic timing belt kit time about all the idlers tensioner a water pump water pump yeah a lot of people don't replace the water pump but you're there yep yep an OEM Subaru thermostat is a must why is that no like aftermarket Mishimoto something moto yeah don't do that okay everybody thinks I'm gonna make my car run cooler but you just screw at the factory tune so just make sure you use the OE back all our race cars that this part right here yeah okay oh yeah I'm a coolant as well so you're gonna want to fill it up with the OEM coolant okay and sometimes if you buy an aftermarket water pump yeah they'll supply you with this paper garbage gasket okay don't do that all right make sure you get the metal om gas right and why is that the paper ones just are very robust they're terrible it's paper that's metal that it's a nice that's a nice gasket I like it okay so this is the OEM gasket yeah is this om stuff too or is this a car this is actually aftermarket incredibly similar to OEM all these parts are manufactured in Japan so I think it's like nsk bearing which makes it okay oh this is a coil so it's high quality stuff it is high quality so that will be quality stuff yeah so if you're looking for an aftermarket kit where you're not buying om super stuff yeah make sure it comes from Japan and not China or India or something like that last longer all right and this paperwork over here do we care about that they show you how to install things you don't want to follow that okay but this is the biggest problem with the EJ timing belt system really yeah a lot of people would just go oh I need a timing belt 168 K yeah I'm gonna throw a belt on it a year down the road this thing explodes I say explodes I'm gonna send PETA photo okay you'll see all the bearings fall out of it and then the belt comes off yeah that things happen bad things how to get bent and so on yeah yeah so I mean the difference in price between the racing belt alone and then the kit with you know it's a couple hundred bucks yeah how much is an engine yeah it's good security yeah just replace it off do it do it do it one shot what you we're gonna show you right now yeah not me man yeah this is damn he's gonna be spinning the wrenches today and then what models of supers does this job apply to what most Bilkent first came out on in 1996 but they still reach all out all the way up to the 2018 with new STI so using the same engine okay so 196 T 2018 will have these dual cam engines and so there are some differences between this and the single cam set up so there's yeah the belts different size you have different components different water pumps and some of the other islands are different as well but pretty much it's basically the same thing the time looks a little bit less components on a single here okay so where do you start on this first off we got start taking apart all the little parts like the air intake and some of the accessory belts drain the coolant and then we'll get to the timing covers and get all the accessories off then we'll get to the belt then all right now the NAMM stripped everything out of the front here you can see the the belts exposed and the crank pulley is off and you were saying there's a difference in procedure as far as removing this on a manual car versus an automatic car yeah sometimes when they get pretty stubborn to come off usually a lot of times you just have to pull it off and they'll just slide right out sometimes on a car that's a little bit more stubborn to come out on a manual you could stick a screwdriver in the side of the bell housing and lock up the lock of the flywheel and then crack it loose or have something sit in it put in fifth gear step on the brakes and cracking loose there but on an automatic we have to stick a pry bar down to the flex plate and then hold the engine with the flex plate and crackers that way so what's the next step the next step is to line up the timing marks so Runnings reinstall this crank bolt and it back up do a bit of the Zap just to get it in place break apart and crank it so we can line up the marks this mark right here is got to line up to the notch on the oil pump once that's lined up we double-check that and work on the candid lined up see here how the double mark here should line up in these marks you line up to the cover this one to the cover as well something on this side this one's hard to see that grab with the mirror but as you can see here there's a mark and an upper timing cover and that mark on the cams gotta line up to it so an interesting discovery area you have the crank in the right position and youryour cams are not lining up yes what does that mean what does that tell us it means that either the belts stretched or the timing's jumped to tooth and this is why it's so important to change the timing belt and tensioner at the proper intervals okay you can see as well that the hydraulic tensioner is also wet at the top which means it's leaking okay I was not fooling its proper tension so with this at the mileage it's a trend now is about 170,000 kilometers right now which means it belts probably stretched beyond this life we're gonna crack all these bolts loose on the idlers these eyelet are all gonna get changed the hydraulic tensioner just take these off that gives us enough slack to pull the belt that gives us the access to the water now we need to crack the thermostat housing bolts thermostat housing often exposed to the old thermostat and we need to take these two cooler lines off move the clamped out of the way right not to tear it the hose now we bring it back down and take the water pump out at this time you crack loose the bolts for the water pumps it should be six of them on here this time the water flow just come right out and now we peel the old gasket off for the water pump and make sure you clean the surface and a nice and clean before you apply the new water pump now that the surface is clean we need to put in the new water pump and the brand new gasket the trick I like to use when installing the water pump it's on two screwdrivers they'll hold the gasket in place lining it up one by one installing the ports now we torque the water pump bolts to nine foot pounds in a crisscross pattern now we spray some silicone inside the rubber hoses slide in nice and easy and clamps back into position and we apply the rubber gasket onto the new thermostat make sure it's seated well make sure that the bleeder port is facing the top of the water pump install the thermostat housing torque these to nine foot pounds so the next step is to start installing all the idlers and tensioner the tensioner first make sure you start it with your fingers you don't cross thread this one you want to start with a couple of threads just to keep it in place you want to keep this loose this one at the bottom you leave off for now next we need to take the access panel off of the evcs cam sprocket in order to line up the timing marks the steps only required for cars that have ABC s next you want to make sure that all the marks line up starting from the crank sprocket the mark on the sprocket is lined up with the mark on the oil pump and on the right side you don't need to take the cover off because the cam is moving freely so you can line this up without using the allen key make sure these are lined up this side you grab an allen key try your best to line it up you might spin you can always line it up again when you put the belt and when installing the belt make sure that the letters are facing you if not the marks will not line up going the other direction in to ease the install I like to mark the belts in order to see the marks lined up with the cams and the dotted line goes on the crank sprocket lay it underneath the tensioner line up the paint mark to the cam sprocket the lower mark on the sprocket the allen key I want to turn the sprocket to line up this market fold it underneath with the other sprocket tuck it over the water pump and you might need to come back here line this side up again so now that everything's lined up and we still have a couple idlers to install you just gotta make sure your marks are on point first so the crank is on with a dotted line the cams are on this side double marks are lined up with the mirrors check the left exhaust mark right side intake right side exhaust and the double marks now with the lower either you want to use the palm ratchet now with too much force for just walking the boat in that's tight the idler besides the water pump once again just quickly check to make sure the marks are still aligned up before installing the last either at this time check all your marks again left intake laughs exhaust double marks right intake right exhaust double marks and crank sprocket now that all the idlers are on you want to double-check that the belt is not too loose at the bottom once all the marks are lined up and the belts tight enough you can start pulling the tensioner pin double check that the tensioner isn't stuck double check all your marks again with the mirrors and you're good to go then you can torque all the idlers 229 foot-pounds in the small idler to 8 and install a new o-ring for the BCS cam sprocket cover reinstall the cover and the bolts the service manual costs are two and a half foot pounds but I'm just gonna tighten it up with a four - right now it's ready for the timing covers so before installing the timing cover I like to apply a little bit of copper anti-seize on the bolt in case we need to take this time you cover it apart again or the engine apart so next we need to install the Subaru om stretch-fit belt and in order to do that we need the Subaru OEM stretch fit tools we install the guide and the plastic guy for the crank pulley pull the belt on the metal bracket holds the belt in position sometimes just take some trial and error [Music] one way of doing this if you don't have the tool is with a screwdriver but you could always cause some damage to either the crank pulley or the AC now that everything is buttoned up it's time to top up and bleed the coolant sis and I'm told there's some secrets to bleeding a Subaru system yes Subarus have a big problem with air pockets because the flat floor so what we like to use we like to use the special funnel or adding coulis so what you wanna do should put the funnel on the swirl pot of the engine and you start adding coolant in until the funnel gets full let it sit for a bit make sure the level is good and with the stick ready you want to open up the lower ride rad cap you will make sure that coolant comes out of the rad which means that the air pocket in the rad has been taken away and take the fun out plug out [Applause] yeah you got to make sure it gets up to operating temperature which means that this rat fans will come on once the rat dance come on and turn off the reinvesting card that operating temperature and the coke after that you can find up the clone system go for test right make sure that thing gets the customer home yeah they go alright like I sets a wrap on this timing belt swap on this dual cam you j25 hope you guys learn something and we'll be back maybe to do a single camel on at some point the head gaskets - all kinds of good super stuff we can do here I'm all about it full set dancing around
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Channel: Speed Academy
Views: 947,268
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: Subaru timing belt, Subaru, how to change the timing belt, how to replace a timing belt, timing belt, timing belt marks, replacing water pump, EJ20, EJ25, DOHC, 2.5L, 2.0L, Subaru WRX, Subaru Impreza, Subaru STI, Subaru Legacy, Subaru Forrester, WRX, STI, rally, auto repair, help, DIY, timing belt noise, skipped teeth, idler pulleys, what belt to buy
Id: JfjG4BCiTTY
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 16min 38sec (998 seconds)
Published: Fri Nov 17 2017
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