How to Repair Driveway, Patio & Pool Deck Cracks Before Applying Concrete Overlay

hello I'm Greg Inslee with standard surfaces and today I just want to discuss a little bit with you about practicing systems that we use over top of driveways sidewalks patios things of that magnitude to try to ensure not foolproof that crack won't mimic back through the actual overlay that you're planning to put down onto that servers so there's three things that we know about concrete it gets very hard it's kind of crack and nobody's going to steal me and we're trying to address the cracking particular situations that we run into time and time again where people think that they have to have their entire driveway and patio excavated out and then have another traveling board at the same price that you can actually pay and maybe sometimes even cheaper to have someone come in and actually do an overlay over top of that particular cracked driveway as long as it's not too chewy to the point to where it's completely destroyed a lot of times you can go right on top of that if you do the proper crack regime systems and created a really beautiful mob statically pleasing texture coloration things that you wouldn't necessarily be able to afford make it if you had to have the expense of ripping out an entire driveway and then we pour the entire driveway and just ending up with again just your regular room finish or control joint and expansion to it into substrate so that's what we're trying to do here is give you an opportunity to fill those areas to crack bridge those areas and then be able to go to put a top coat on it feel confident that you'll be able to create and are safely pleasing depiction for your customers there's two kinds of cracks that we're looking for in a particular substrate one is a dead crack that maybe has been there for 20 30 years maybe travels just a few inches or a few feet within the concrete but has deadened itself and stopped itself to from continuing to go on any further a lot back of something we see going from side to side mostly I'm sure it's all the way through and that's what we're going to pay particular attention to you so one sure thing that you want to make sure that you do when you are doing a crack bridge system is you make sure you get all your line cracks and then if you have a few dead cracks that maybe you feel need to be addressed that's fine but one thing we always do is we always honor all control joints and we honor all expansion joints expansion joints that may be mixed in the structure or a large separated expansion joint within the actual structure of the trifle a or a sidewalk even with expansion material we honor that width and everything of that particular material that's in there so they always have to be rethought re configurated with the expansion material in that location but as far as a control joint we always honor them they're there for a reason experience to give them the concrete a place to crack and alleviate its stress from expansion contraction movement within the earth especially it's a new pore so we want to make sure we always are we don't crack bridge those control joints and if you happen to crack bridge a lot of crack the transpires across and control joint you want to make sure that you come back and we saw cut that control joint after the fact to make sure that you have proper code and control joints doing time throughout your entire substrate so when you're applying a student surfaces crackered system there's probably two ways by which you're going to do this one you're going to expanse it out about a 36 inch total 18 off center for if you're going to do a thinner facade depiction over top of it meaning like a spray texture or a stencil or a takedown of any magnitude or maybe just a thin hand trowel you want to expanse your crack Ridge on at least 36 inches so that it gradually has a little build up to Center feather down to nothing on both sides so that therefore you don't see that hump after you apply your final coven of stone image surfaces material whether it's a trout mint or a spray texture if you're going to be donating a full quarter to three extent next then you can just make you a 2412 off center so that you still won't see that hump but you don't have to be quite as gradual because your speed rate will help you keep the proper slope entail for keeping the water running off properly whether it's a patio or a sidewalk or something of that situation so today we've done about a 24 inch expanse 12 off-center we basically just got a little crack here that's across the milk rat control chilly after the fact we would have gone back and honored this control point by we saw pudding with a diamond saw making sure that you mark on both sides of your slab however you see fit however you need to to make sure you know where that control joint is but make sure that you always honor that so here's gonna be cutting right back perpendicular right through that control joint across the actual crack wedge but your crack bridge because of the way we're formulating it will have enough messaging system and mix to transpire from both sides and that's what we consider like a cantilever okay there's a lot of ways to crack bridge concrete and probably the best is too expensive and that is saw cutting right down into the actual concrete and in driving staples down into it and that's a highly expensive mostly commercial application so therefore there's a lot of guys that will change that crack pitch out and use a sandbag so foxy makes something like that to be able to preparation two together but and as I like those I like the cantilever as well because what that cantilever does is it kind of not only fills the crack after you champion it and on your vika it also kind of holds together from so far on both sides of that crack the actual concrete from having any further movement all the way through to your top coat of your student services stamp mix that you might be stamping or again in your trial mix a new trial and your spread so when we're addressing our crack bridging of our lap packs one thing that you want to do is you want to make sure that you have all your loose granular material the baby in that crack evacuated out whether it's through pressure washing in your small ball-peen hammer something of that magnitude and then come back and maybe chamfer it really cut something of that sort so then you can fill it back a little pride 110 or primer 100 and our step mix just to fill in an area prior to putting your package down or even if you don't have the availability about at that time you can use our probably 100 or criminal intent even with it of sandbags just to kind of fill that lower area in before you begin the proper inch system with our primer 110 or prama 100 and our stand fixed configuration before we start our crack-resistant today I want to little bit about our primer 110 and the bonding agent that we're going to be using our primer 110 comes in a powder information and we're basically going to going to be using a one-to-one water to cement ratio to be able to create our bonding agent to be able to apply down to our surface area and you can even let it dry no one's a white film prior to applying our actual stamp mix in our spider lab system or a crack which you will also be using several ounces of the actual dry mix within each bag of statics that you use for your crack net system just to give it a little bit more expansion contraction flexural strength a little bit more mobility so that it kind of acts like a dim mount if you understand how submarine works everything on the submarine is built as an apparatus that has a dim map a rubberized map so when a torpedo hits it everything can shake separately of the actual submarines so that it won't just disintegrate apart and that's kind of concept we're looking at here but by making a little bit more rubberized cement over top of this Krakus so that for if there's any movement within the actual underlying crack maybe we can minimize the possibility of that hairline coming back through by letting the absorption be taking place in the actual crack Ridge and not in the surface area of the topcoat skeptics that we're going to apply upon our substrate so when we're mixing primer 110 from Stone Age surfaces line of materials we're going to take an equal amount of my powder and mix it with a equal amount of volume of water so therefore I have my water and I'm using a two and a half quarts liquid and a half quarts of powder and then I don't want to just if I have a very small amount and I want to use a stir stick that's fine but I have a little bit of a larger amount that's going to equal you know almost a full gallon or more of actual liquid material so I want to use an absolute drill to mix that to make sure that thoroughly get all those compounds mixed together and I get all the qualities that I need to ensure a crystallization and extreme bond between the stone edge style materials and the substrate that I'm lying in the pond [Applause] so these mixed up our primer 110 dry material with our water and we've mixed it for about three minutes we want to make sure that we have a watery pink type consistency not your regular paint we want it to be a little bit thinner not like water but it's going to be in between that and your paint so if you look down here you see consistency is very wet and as long as you use it within that day it will stay dispersed within itself the next day if you use it anytime you have liquid left over and you store it make sure that the next time that you use it that you do stir it sufficiently - easily the student surfaces and now we are going to apply our bonding agent primer 1:10 before our spider lab application our actual underlayment crap bridge material that we're going to use and then another sandwich later a spider that on top of that creating our crack bridge system so I'm going to put the primer down first and let it be dry and I'll explain to you a little bit more about our preparation you so now we're placing our spider lab system over top of the actual primer 110 that we applied to the surface area and we put one piece down with linear miles on the crack about 12 off center and now we're going to place the other piece down overlapping about three inches over top of the crack about 12 Center and actually role problems right on there to make sure that the spy rat has sufficient problem on top of it as well and in the mix that you put on top of it will hold that down you I'm getting ready to mix up our first batch of mix for after we've already applied our primal 110 and our messaging system to a twelve off center from the linear crack that we have and what I'm going to be doing is just like we do over a wood substrate I'm going to be adding 4 ounces of primer 110 to each bag of mixing on a two bag mix for this I'll have some left over and if I was using primer 100 I would actually use 8 ounces of primer 100 and the reason I'm only using 4 ounces of this primer 110 is I'm adding water to my mix normally as I would normally do about 3 quarts of water remember we can do 2.75 to 3.75 for our stem mix and the stem mix is what we use for our crack root system so just remember when you are mixing primer 110 and you're doing it within the powder mix you can use four ounces of dry powder or eight ounces of a post mix because you've added one-to-one water to powder ratio so I'm going to go ahead and start adding my mixes and get them wet and mix them up for approximately three minutes I can add your small amount of the polymer first the end adding it all the quarts of water that I need for two bags of material so now I'm going to apply our crack bridging material that we have mixed with our problem and our Student Services stamp mix gray and I'm going to put a beatnik material down upon the actual spot lab that we've placed over the actual linear footage of the track that we're trying to crack which as you notice I have spiked shoes on so therefore depending on how I'm working with it I'm not working walking in the mix or I'm not using my bare feet to walk on the primer and smearing it all around if it happens to maybe be a little bit wet at this point so now that I have my BD turn it down I want to work it from a about a quarter inch to a feathered edge on both sides of materials that I can place my top layer of spiral a bit for my veggie system [Applause] you you so coming here now and once we've done our expanse of the actual preparation material Cody's gonna lay in another layer of spinal lab directly on top of what is already there and then we're going to trow that right in and you're having a little bit of a problem working it all in I'm not really having a problem right now let's say you are then you can take a little bit of that water bed and just miss the surface there you go that's plenty and that you see how quick that creates a slurry by which then you can fish covering up your crack bridging system just to create as much of a notice right here maybe I don't have quite as much material as where I came along that's okay my main thing is I'm making sure that happened when I'm talking the power and the full expanse of the actual preparation system and then once you come back any balls that may build up on top from traveling you just take a scraper scrape those up with wick and then put your foreboding agent and your topcoat to be stink you

Channel: Stone Edge Surfaces

Views: 51,004

Keywords: decorative concrete, concrete overlay, driveway repair, patio repair, fix cracked driveway, fix cracked concrete, fix cracked cement, stamped concrete, crack bridge, concrete repair, concrete crack fix, stone edge surfaces, how to fix concrete, how to fix a concrete crack, crack repair, driveway crack repair, patio crack repair, concrete crack repair, cement crack repair

Id: YFELbTusN6M

Length: 20min 17sec (1217 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 31 2018