How to Paint SAURUS WARRIORS | SERAPHON | LIZARDMEN | AGE of SIGMAR

hi everyone it's Henry here now Games Workshop recently sent us the new seraphon Army launch box so I thought it'd be a great opportunity to do a classic Army painting video where I'll take a couple of thesaurus we look at ways that we can get a great looking Army on the table in a reasonable time frame and I absolutely loved painting them so I decided to do two now let's paint [Applause] both the schemes I've worked up from a wraith bone spray undercoat which if you're a hobbyist of my era when you got into the hobby it smells just like smelly primer I don't know if you remember that stuff but it's basically this sort of off-white ever so slightly Ivory colored primer and it's fantastic for what we're gonna do with this paint job on both the color schemes where we're going to start bright and work our way down now I'm using an airbrush here to get the first base coat of color on the model it's absolutely not necessary it's just really really quick I've got the tool so I'm going to use it and I've started there with plague Bearer flesh contrast paint now I'm going to get the same plate Bearer flesh contrast paint and some contrast medium on my palette and we're gonna thin that paint down using the medium now we're going to start traditional brush painting so the only reason as I say just to reiterate that I used it in the airbrush I used it in the airbrush a couple of drops of airbrush thinner 25 psi just a really quick way to give me a smooth solid base coat that might have taken me one or two goes with the contrast with a brush and if I was batch painting an army that will save me quite a lot of time so that's why I would suggest doing it if you've got access to that and now we're going to go in with the contrast paint now you see here I've got a large brush this is a size 4 by artist Opus says it's a big brush it's got a big old belly on it which means it can hold tons of paint and in this instance that's really really useful to us now bear in mind if it's going to hold a lot of paint then paint May flood off that brush quite easily if you press it too hard onto the model so I found the more and more I'm using contrast paint the more I like it and let's be honest things like demon models and lizard men like this are absolutely perfect to get the most out of Contour Frost in my opinion I've diluted it with the contrast medium quite heavily at least 50 50 probably more like two parts contrast paint one contrast medium to contrast paint but it's just on my palette and I'm just mixing it around but the reason I'm doing that is I want to apply it in multiple layers I want to build up the effect and I'm really really conscious with my brush stroke that each time I'm trying to end the brush stroke in a recess so we don't get where we lift the brush off we don't get a pool of that paint sitting on a flat area where we don't like it and the nice thing about contrast paint as well is there's a little bit of wiggle room um with regards to your working time so if you do get a little pool of it somewhere you don't want it as long as you catch it within five ten seconds you can just sort of shift it around and move it into recess without any problems and I'm going over all of the the soft flesh here uh on on the skin I'm not worrying too much about the scales that's already got a coat on there and you've seen pop up on the screen I just want to say a huge thank you to everyone that supports us over on patreon your likes and subscribes here are awesome and they do really help but those of you supporting us over on patreon mean that myself and Andy can create a video on here a video over on patreon each week we're absolutely loving working on these projects we feel very privileged to do it um and it's all down to you lots so thanks ever so much for that um he's currently working on another incredible golden demon entry at the minute which you will see in this weekend's upcoming why my Fest um so once that was dry I'm now going to move on to the next color this is another contrast paint this is Mantis Warriors green and this is the color I'm going to use for the scales on the model so the plague Bearer is the the fleshy parts and now the Mantis Warrior is for the scales again I've thinned it a similar amount if in doubt I'd rather thin it too much and very very deliberately here with my brush notes I'm being careful not to get it onto the fleshy areas and I'm also trying to work most of my brush Strokes towards the spine so what we end up creating and you can create it really quite easily with contrast paint it's nice smooth transitions between colors the medium is helping with that I think it's basically like a satin medium but it's it's really helping sort of um blend those colors together quite easily so I've done one coat there um in the end I ended up doing I think three and this is the second coat I'm being a little more slap Dash with this one because I'm only really I'm not aiming towards any of the edges here next to the the flesh so I know that as long as I end it roughly in a recess it'll be absolutely fine this is just to get a stronger color I do find that contrast paint goes on better over a layer of paint underneath it not just contrast paint underneath it but a normal acrylic paint underneath it and here I decided to use another contrast paint aldera eldari Emerald um to further work towards the spine to give us some more exciting colors but I wanted the actual spines themselves to be this color too and you'll notice it works great on the scales but the spines you get that slightly blotchy look that I find you do get with contrast if it's over a flat surface of any significant size so what I've done is gone back in and I've taken a normal acrylic paint this is cabalite green and I'm just going to base coat the spines in that as I say the contrast paint on the scales is absolutely fine but I wanted a bit more solidity for one of a better word um on the scales quite a few of the spines on this one are covered in Gold anyway so not too worried about it so once that cab light green was dry and then go back in with the eldari emerald and I carry on layering it up each time just working slightly closer towards the spine so I would have put the cab light green on before I even started any with the aldarium rod just for what it's worth key take home here really is the thinner diluted contrast paint with contrast medium and always working in towards the spine and lighter colors to darker it's ever so simple um it's it's very relaxing it's very rewarding which is kind of what you want now an additional step I've done you may want to or not I've taken ice yellow which is a very very light yellow color by a scale 75 and I've just mixed in the corresponding contrast paint to that to create a highlight for that stage of the paint job and I'm not going to do Edge highlighting over the whole model but I thought it'd be nice to do just around the face that sort of focal area I think it really was uh worthwhile now I deliberately left the face uh astronomy as neat and tidy as possible with this I think it it's a real benefit when you're doing this sort of type of paint job um yeah just neat and tidy and I left the face as clean as I could and then over that I've applied very again another contrast paint but very thinned out magos purple this is just to give a sort of slight pinky tinge um to a few areas so I've gone for his knees um the sort of what they called serratus muscles I think it is was chest um and then a few more layers of it on the actual face itself for the tongue nice and simple no more contrast paints just proper lovely one of my absolute favorite acrylic paints Barrack not burgundy by Gaines Workshop a couple of coats of that and I'll highlight it by adding in a little bit of that ice yellow find when I'm Army painting and it's models like this just having one or two colors that I'm going to mix in to create a highlight color for a small area it's just way more efficient than having a million and one paints um you've already probably got loads of paints that you're using so the more efficient we can be the better and to that end I'm going to base coat the teeth using uh thondia Brown and I'm then going to use the same fondier brown color to base paint base coat all of the Rope elements of the model then I'm going to mix in a sort of yellowy brown color called Japanese uniform this one's by the layer model color but a lot of Brands will make this color but it's just a yellowy brown color I'm mixing that into the fondier brown to start to create highlights for the rope and there's actually little sculpted ridges in the Rope so I'm just trying to vaguely follow them even if I'm not hitting each one of them I'm trying to do little dashes in the same directions just to help reinforce that now for the eyes I'll take that same Japanese uniform color to base coat the pupil then I'm taking flash gets yellow but against workshops A nice bright yellow color but not terribly great coverage that's why we did the Japanese uniform first a little blob of that and then for the pupil itself it's a simple black sort of dot slash line slash V I've gone for um I'm sure lots of people that like lizard men or seraphon probably like looking at pictures of reptiles there's tons of cool eyeballs you can go and copy with that now for the red scheme and I decided to do this as starborn rather than coalesce because why not um two really fantastic ideas and having read through the Army book uh thoroughly enjoyed it it's called an army book no what's it called now battle tone um it felt like reading one of the old army books there's tons and tons of really good detail and I really like what they've done with the seraphon now how they're setting them in the age of Sigma setting it's um it's really cool I won't spoil anything but if you want to give it a read I highly recommend it very very similar process we just can use different colors so they're brushed on Dreadful Visage now I'm gonna Dreadful Visage that you say it sounds like a perfume there's each triple Visage whatever this paint and then I'm going to brush paint it on um exactly the same way we did so again always thinking about the direction of my brush stroke and the dilution of the paint then our first color on the scales is going to be griffhound orange contrast there's one additional stage of color in this scheme and that's simply because I felt the jump between the the Dreadful Visage the the skin color and the scale color was too too strong with this one whereas on the green scheme it worked really well so I've added just a layer of orange griffound orange onto the scales again being really really careful now not to touch any of the fleshy areas much more difficult to blend these two colors together than the greens and the yellows then for the main red color using one of my absolute favorite paints uh flesh terror's red contrast now I'm using a lot of contrast Paints in this obviously and as I said I think these sorts and models are absolutely perfect for them I'm well aware other brands do their versions um of contrast paint um so if you prefer to use them by all means do but I have a full set of contrast paints I love using them in the airbrush mainly um but I do quite like using them as they were intended when it's the right model now for the spines I'm just base coating them thumbnail Brown it was a little bit too light so I added a touch of black paint into it but yeah just base coating them there in advance of then doing our final contrast color so once that was dry I'm then taking rattling Grime and again thinning it down and just mixing it in if you ever get an area where it's it's too obvious it's too Stark just mix the two colors together the two so here for instance flesh terror is red and rattling thin it down and just glaze it over that area again always pull in your brush Strokes towards the center towards the spine and you'll easily just glaze it and blend it together now for the star-borne made of etheric magic looking skin um super simple again keep it clean which means we can then just apply talisar blue contrast straight over it I've thinned this slightly less but blue is such a powerful paint and contrast themselves are generally very powerful paints um you know it's still really quite full-on to highlight this rather than adding yellow into it I added a bit of Verdigris his lovely bright uh pale green color which added down to the talisar and then started highlighting that up until I got just the pure Verdigris to give us that sort of glowy sort of just weird look um very very simple to do and I think quite striking particularly in the battle Tome they've done it with much darker schemes on the Flesh and the scales and it's very very effective but here they are absolutely in love with them determined to do a seraphon army at this point but I will finish those floats to Darkness first see how I feel after I've done that if I still fancy doing them but if they bring out Vanguard box for these I am please please write in the comments that you want to see that because that'll then let me do it um so yeah that would be a massive massive help if you would like to see that and hopefully it's got some lizards and some gribblies and a big monster or whatever um all I did there was apply a coat of ultramat varnish over them just to unify the finish I'm not a huge fan of the Finish you get with contrast paints now for the metals uh the first one I've done a 50 50 mix of old copper and black metal to give me this sort of slightly Bluey coppery pinky base then I have just stippled old copper straight over the top of it then a very heavy wash of a 50 50 mix of agrats Earth shade and pterodon turquoise contrast paint and just if you do see it pooling anywhere you don't want it like I said you can just move it just and either clean that brush off or end that brush stroke in the thing you'll see I've done the vast majority of the paintwork on these Miniatures with this massive brush as well other than the bits around the face really I've just used the Big Brush new the whole time which is great um nice and efficient then once that's dry do a little Edge highlight with pure copper these are all by scale 75 these metallics lovely set of metallics um lovely pinky copper color this and you can see because we've really dulled that metal down with the previous wash this little Edge highlight really brings the bright the shine back and then to push that one step further you can use Moonstone Alchemy just for a few little spot little Dash highlights um just to again to pump that up I think you could have an awful lot of fun with the different metals on lizard then um it's just such an exciting Army on the table top I think to look at the Gold we can do much much simpler I'm going to base coat it using necro gold I figured two metals was enough like one metal for the weapons and then a different colored metal for all the little doodads um don't used to go crazy and then a highlight I'm going to use Peridot Alchemy lovely bright green gold no washes here I thought it would be nice to have that different level of contrast between the two metals um yeah and I love that shine you get off it and here they are together the vase I've just done very very simple I nicked it off the uh scheme or the method that Andy used when he was doing his little underworld warband stop pop link up um to how he's done that at the top of the screen now but yeah what wonderful models to paint I had so much fun doing this one it was super relaxing um I think if you are a lizard man fan or you're jumping on this you're going to have a really good time they were a pleasure to build as well I am really really impressed um with this kit I haven't been with some recently this one I think is is fantastic so I'm really really pleased for any of you that are going to pick this up because I think you're going to have a fabulous time uh painting them up so if you've got any questions about anything I've done in the video just pop them down in the comments and I'll do my best to get back to you when I can like I say I'd love to revisit the lizards in the future and look at a few of the different uh models and and different bits and Bobs we could do to them so if you'd like to see that let me know in the comments as well if you aren't already hit that subscribe button and if you've enjoyed the video hit the like button because it really does help us out and I'll see you next time if you've liked any of the models in this video and you fancy having an army of them yourself but perhaps you don't have the time or wherewithal to get it done consider dropping us an email at commissions Cult of pain.com and maybe Ben can sort you out

Channel: Cult of Paint

Views: 70,125

Keywords:

Id: C0QHGbdF27A

Length: 16min 44sec (1004 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 27 2023