How to Paint KROOT for your TAU Army | 3 Schemes | Army Painting | Warhammer 40k

hi everyone it's Henry here and in this video I'm going to take you through a few ways that I would approach painting up an army of the new crew minitures so Games Workshop sent us through the launch box for them and I built up a few of the carnival models they build fine they're not too complicated which is great um sort of core troop unit of the army and I thought to myself what would I focus on if this is what I was doing if I was painting up an army and for me the obvious one is the skin um I would play around with lots of different skin colors but I would need to make sure that there was still a cohesiveness sort of Harmony across the Army between it so that would be my main focus for the painting and then looking at a few of the other little elements that are on this so maybe the metals things like the the tattoos the to be honest with you there's not much else on them is there it's it's basically naked chicken monsters running around with some rifles um but we should have some fun let's [Applause] paint so over a gray primer I'm going to give the Miniatures a base coat using Hull red I've chosen whole red because I think this is going to work as a shadow color a sort of universal Shadow color for the all the different skin colors that I'm going to use on these guys so it's a a valo model color paint so it's quite thick I've thinn this about two or three drops of thinner for every drop of paint I'm spraying at about 20 to 25 psi and I'm using a 0.4 mm needle and nozzle and for this I'm using our Harden steam Beck Signature Series Evolution so once I've got a nice solid base coat of that down I'm going to do a fairly simple pre shade you might hear this called zenial something like that essentially I'm loading up a rakar flesh which is a light off white and it's what I'm going to use as the highlight color across everything on these models as well again to help bring in that Harmony um thin this down slightly less maybe two drops of thinner to paint just so it's going through nice and smoothly and applying translucent layers of paint so I can see through each layer that I'm spraying on a little bit showing through which means I can build that up and already get a nice little sort of gradient uh going going between the sort of dark red through to this this very I suppose pink but you know off-white color um and I'm just kind of going top down really so pointing the miniature so my airbrush is almost the light source directly above the model spraying down on it so if we look at it from underneath it's still pretty much entirely red but if you look at it directly from above it's almost pure uh rakar flesh this is uh it's It's Tricky this I think you can paint the crw amazingly I think I think they're really fun models there are something bit different for 40K which is great but I struggle to see how you paint crout quickly and they look good I think you can paint them efficiently which is my goal sort of here but the more and more I was getting into the process the more I was like just get the vibe right enjoy the painting process get the vibe right and if you enjoy all of that and you have an army at the end of it it's going to be easy that's that's my sort of feelings on it uh anyway so you can see here I've got that simple top down highlight and now we're ready to apply a few different colors colors so onto the colors I've played around with a bunch of different ones um I actually did something not dissimilar to this a few months ago with a fleshy AZ project although it was a bit more stylized um and yeah I I wanted I wanted all the tones and and the real Vibe of these these crouts be feel a lot more natural in the sense of you know lots of earthy tones um just picture them sort of in in nature um rather than the the flesh eater stuff which was all just meant to be quite sty weirdness um and in the end I settled on this orange brown color for the orangey brown ones which is mour Fang Brown thin that about two or three drops of thinner to paint you can see I was applying quite thin layers of the paint on there building it up getting a nice color uh for the green guys I'm doing exactly the same but I'm using Lauren Forest again thinned a very similar amount because it's very similar consistency of paint now I just wanted to say massive thank you to those of you that support us over on patreon um myself and are now doing this fulltime both of us which means we can put tons of focus into producing a bunch of content for you both here and each week over on patreon as well bunch of us as well as you know ton of other projects we've got coming up no paints all that sort of thing so just wanted to say we both massively massively appreciate it um and if for any reason you can't support us over on patreon but you enjoy what we do then hit the like button hit subscribe comment on the video all of that makes a massive difference and check out the various affiliate links that are down in the description as well all of that support genuinely makes a difference um and I enjoy reading the comments as well so you know thanks a lot for doing that guys really do appreciate it um for the blue color in the end I had to use a contrast paint I couldn't quite find a a paint I wanted and this is Griff charger gray the reason I wanted to not use contrasts for the skin color on these guys was to do with highlighting but also I love using contrasts like this but they just it is a different look to just using a a paint um I think it you end up with a a stronger sort of pre-show showing through um which wasn't quite quite the look I was going for but uh as I think you'll pick up in this video this was a a really fun painting thing but I wasn't quite sure it was growing quite organically as I was moving through I usually do loads of test models and I'm happy this one I did a bunch of test models wasn't quite there and I just thought ah s it just get on with painting it it it'll be okay now talking about tying the various colors together so we've got a universal Shadow color in the pre- shade which is our whole red we've got rakar flesh as our highlight and now I'm going to use the same wash color and I'm making up a wash here using Gilman flesh contrast paint and Lan medium so letting it down with the Lan medium means it's just going to behave a lot more like a wash and a lot less like a contrast paint so essentially it will just run into the recesses and it won't overly tint uh those flat surfaces or those raised surfaces and I'm using a nice large brush here as you can see and I'm just working in sections of the model so I do all his head or do his arm do his torso and work my way around like that I found that using the larger brushes is key really to avoiding getting those little tide marks where you move paint that is drying um we don't really want to do that so nice large areas we're covering at one time and you can see here the the Gillman flesh it's going to have a more pronounced impact on say the the green skin or the blue skin but having it there across all the different colors should again help tie them uh together nicely and I chose Gilman flesh because it was that kind of ready Brown um I did try this with oil paints on one of the testers just didn't work for me couldn't get the color right um I just couldn't couldn't get the the type of shading that you get by using these contrasts with the with the medium um so I preferred this one thing I do do is go back in any areas that I've got a real pooling of that liquid just Wick it up with a a dry brush and uh just stops you getting a weird buildup in any of those areas and it does take a little while to dry that mixture and I don't like to rush it with a hair dryer in case I move the paint around and get those aforementioned tide marks and and things like that so whilst it's drying I'm just going to go in and black out the areas of metal on the models now let's have a look at them see me forgetting to edit out me changing the lighting there um yeah so really really happy at this stage for me blacking out not only prep stuff um for the metallics and things but it also really helps me get a look at that airbrush stage um so when whether that's an armor color or in this case a skin color a color that dominates the majority of the model I find blacking out the areas around it really really helps me it frames it and tells me if I'm on the sort of right track uh with what I'm doing with him and I felt very confident uh at this stage so I wanted to do a highlight and although this is Army painting which means you know getting it done looking good on the table it also it needs to be enjoyable it's not speed painting um so because the flesh was the the majority of the miniature I think the focal point I didn't mind spending a little extra time and what I've opted for is sort of highlighting but also adding lots of little spots now this is not stippling to do very very uh subtle highlighting on skin that you might see I want to see the Dots here because I want the skin to look spotty Doty whatever you whatever you call it um so you can see for the the gray I used a color called Caspian Blue by scale 75 I did need to mix in a little bit of the rack AR to to lighten that one up then uh I've used stra and green uh for the green one here and you can see I'm focusing on the areas that I would put highlights on so those that are facing upwards towards the light I'm also doing lots of these nice dots to create that sort of um texture on on the miniat not physical text but you know a textured skin a spotty skin and for the M Fang I'm using gold Brown uh which is a dry it's called a dry paint it's just really thick once you get it on the wet palette and thin it out it's just it's a normal paint again um so it's fine um so all of them got this one color highlight and honestly this took I don't know 2 minutes at most a model um so I still think it's you know it's it's very achievable on an army and then I just mixed in a little rack off flesh each time and did a few more dots on key areas now for the quills um that are kind of his hair but it's not really the quills on his head and and then the ones that are poking out the rest of him obviously they're base coated black and then I've worked up with a color called us olive drab I've done a sort of 50/50 is mix with the black initially then I've gone the U us olive drab on its own you can see here and I'm highlighting it by sort of tapping down the quills cuz I want to create that kind of um that ring effect that you see when you look at um look at a bird's feather look at look at a quill uh and then I'm adding in a little rakar flesh again and doing slightly fewer of them and again that's the key it here is we're using rakar flesh to highlight nearly everything to try and create that Harmony across the miniature and the reason I've chosen to go black with the quills is I wanted that high degree of value contrast so light and dark and can't really get much darker than black um and I thought it would just again I don't want to pull Focus From The Skin here now one other thing I thought would look fun with these guys was some tattoos um and this is just rakar flesh I've just done some simple little band tattoos around them normally when I do these videos I I pour through the the Army books and stuff if I can get a hold of them um I sent the rest of the Box off to one of our commission painters Harry to cuz he's got a cre Army so he's painting a few out really nicely um I wasn't quite sure here whether cro did tattoos or stuff but for me I figured it fit the vibe of the Miniatures um and I love how these guys look right now like for for a few stages and really not a lot of time I I think they look Wicked so uh yeah really happy not tempted by them but um it's nice to really enjoy painting something little break from heresy uh and and just enjoy painting these models and CR have been around forever right and used to love the Old Forge or cruit they they were great models as well so it's it's lovely to see them get this get this range refresh um for the cloth Parts on the model what I've think are cloth Parts I'm just base coating them using uh English uniform and then highlighting them up using xandre dust nothing complicated at all here um you know I've spent a bit more time on the skin so the other areas of the model need to be quite simple uh to keep it in that feasible sort of time frame for painting an army uh and then the various leather bits I've just gone for a nice dark brown so I've chosen rhox hide here again all the time I'm trying to keep to to fairly natural tones um but making sure they're different enough to each other that it doesn't all just blend into one mushy sort of Brown mess essentially uh then I'm going to highlight that up using Thia Brown and then I'm going to mix in a little bit of rack AR in a minute for sort of little Edge highlights little scratches on it as I say I think if you took were willing to take the time I I really do think um the crw could be incredible looking looking Army I didn't use rakar I used Dubai Dubai Brown uh now the shoulder pad I don't quite get the deal with this do the towel give it to them I'm not sure um but I've just painted it up how I think it looks cool um so I've base coated it using a dryad bark and then I've mixed dryad bark with rakar flesh and I'm going to do lots and lots of little stipple scratches you can see here I'm using a very dilute mix so I got too much on my brush but what this means is I can do tons and tons of these scratches and stipples without adding physical texture or too much physical texture to the model um but we can put a lot of painted texture on there and then I just keep adding in rack off flesh work up until it's pure RAR flesh um for the sort of edges uh and highlights and again I chose to go really nice and light with the shoulder pad because again that value contrast so keeping areas is either really dark or really light on the whole uh compared to the skin again the same across all the Miniatures to help bring in that consistency and that harmony with them uh little symbols uh thankfully they pointed this out on the community article so I was able to have a look at this um I've just chosen corn red here um I mean it's it's painting in small small symbols really um I can't really give you any other tips here other than get comfortable lots of points of contact relax uh keep it simple and you're good to go um once that was dry a few little scratches with rakar over the top just to blend that into the uh the armor so it didn't look too weird now one of my favorite favorite things to paint is wood on Miniatures and I would love to spend loads of time on it but I felt that it was significant enough element of the model the wooden sort of butts on the rifles and stuff that actually you could spend a little time making them look cool um so I've gone for a scaven blight dinge as a base coat now I've deliberately thinned it a little so it goes on a bit streaky I want those streaks I want to start trying to create wood grain effect on the wood I don't have loads of time to do it there Army painting so I'm keeping the paint thin keeping The Strokes just kind of wibbly wobbly um and then I'm just adding in youve guessed it adding in a bit it's not rack off fles this time it's carck Stone we're adding in so adding in a little bit of carck stone to that mix again the reason for car Stone rather than rakar is to take it away from the skin and the hair that's on the model the quills rather that are on the model so I keep adding little carrot Stone few of few of these Wiggly lines to create that wood grain and then I've chosen to use Gore grun to fur as the brown on my wood um you can play around with lots of different Browns over this and you'll get lots of lovely different looking Uh Wood um thin coat first and then apply second you can see the quite a dramatic difference in color that second coat gives us I always prefer with contrast to to work with a thin layer and then and then build it up like this rather than going cuz they can be very strong uh and then once that was dry just going in with a little mix I just had a ton of Browns on my palette so I really just mixed them together till I got a lightish brown and then just painted a few little squiggly lines in there again just to help reinforce that uh that wood grain effect um I do think it is a lovely feature um a model sculpting wise to give them the sort of wooden butts on these hunting rifles um so I say I felt it was worthwhile spending a little extra time with the paint on them so once I had painted all of the elements that Wen going to be metallic so everything we've seen really uh the only other thing is here is I I painted the eyes yellow I think I used hobr hide just a couple of dots of hobr hide in there for the eyes um just making sure that everything that wasn't metal was done I've given the models a coat of matte varnish this is a 50/50 mix of matte and Ultram mat and that's simply because uh particularly where I've used contrast paints on these models they look a bit shiny so I just wanted to get everything with a a similar finish and then for the metals again keeping it simple I'm using iron Warriors here to base the silvers with um I've used a little L and medium just to help it flow a little better so a couple of coats of that um will be good and for all the metals again I kept it really really simple one or two uh colors I'll pop them down in the description what I used but it was necro gold gold decayed metal um and a screaming skull basically screaming Bell rather with with the colors for the metals now I've been talking recently about wanting to use enamel washes um and it is an effect I love that the Finish you get from enamels is unlike oils it's unlike acrylics I just I just love it and I haven't had an opportunity to use them recently partly because it take ages to dry so when I'm filming it's not always um efficient to do but I've chosen to use one called Starship filth here um ideally you want to use an old synthetic brush or a new synthetic brush to make a difference I'm using an old Sable brush here the reason being that we use mineral spirits to clean our brush with with enamels and if we need to thin them further we would use mineral spirits so they've already got lots of solvent in them so they will ruin your natural hair brushes but I just give a little couple of little coats of that wash over the metal and that's it it's done I'm not going to do any more to it and I love the the old metal effect that it that it gives you um because the basing is slightly different to what I typically do on YouTube videos I thought I'd take you through it very very briefly um it's sort of a mega quick version of what you'll see Andy do a lot with his uh his gaming armies um but I'm going to use a brown texture paint here this is called Russian mud I need to get a new pot because this was almost dried out um you can thin it down with water it's te texture it acts in as adhesive so whilst it's still wet I'm going to sprinkle on a load of that ground base um again the the link for that should be down in the description um and yeah I just felt this would be a nice a nice base to put on these models again it just it just felt like it fit the vibe of them um I know it's quite a Mite I know people a lot of people don't care for the the look of of natural materials like real materials as it were that aren't painted um but I I don't mind it I I really quite like how it how it sets the Miniatures um off I think we've accomplished what we set out to do at the start we got very very different skin colors on these Miniatures but I think they fit together beautifully um I think you know you can have all these ones over the Army and I don't think it would look odd at all and and the key to that was using those that same Shadow color that same highlight color I think as well quite important the little extras that are around the model the other elements of it so I say the metals the leather things like that either wanted to keep them very very neutral um so things like that that sort of mustard yellow sash um I just didn't want it to stand out too much so hoped it kind of faded into the background and then went I say very light with the shoulder pad and very dark with other elements such as the quills and stuff and that reason being that the they would the skin itself would stand out next to those next to those things I know it's certainly something I struggle with particularly when I'm painting models that don't have lots of armor on them um it can all end up being that sort of one level of value where it's just all sort of browny gray greeny you know whatever and uh particularly on the table that doesn't Stand Out terribly well um but yeah I've I have thoroughly enjoyed painting these guys I think this is efficient I think you could get an army done like this um in a decent amount of time frame they are they're not quick to paint you have to I think you have to be careful with them um there are elements of them where you you you you are going to have to take your time you're going to have to have a decent brush good bit of brush control because there are little details um to get into so I guess just be be prepared um and actually speaking of uh I mentioned earlier Harry uh one of our commission painters he already has a crew Army so I sent him through some of the other bits from this box just to paint up um and he's you know he's taking these to the N degree for Army painting um I'm sticking some pictures up of them now I just think they're absolutely wonderful I'll pop his Instagram um tag on there as well so you can go and check out his account um but yeah look how cool these gruit models can look if you're willing to take you know that extra time with them I think just yeah just absolutely awesome um so yeah I'm really really happy for those of you that collect your Tower armies and wanted some crw auxiliaries and stuff because now you've got awesome set of models that are very very enjoyable to paint and actually I had a lot more fun painting these than I than I thought I would um I think maybe that's just cuz they have such a strong kind of look and I feel like this painting whilst it isn't you know classic sort of box art style I think it really suits them and also it's a style of painting that I thoroughly enjoy uh doing sort of kind of muted kind of mellow um just had yeah an awful lot of fun with that so as usual if you got any questions about anything I've done in the video pop them down in the comments and I'll will get back to you as soon as I can thanks ever so much for all of your support take care and I'll see you next time if you've liked any of the models in this video and you fancy having an army of them yourself but perhaps you don't have the time or wherewithal to get it done consider dropping us an email at commissions Cult of paint.com and maybe Ben can sort you out

Channel: Cult of Paint

Views: 19,478

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Id: puqrb6qC_h0

Length: 21min 41sec (1301 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 21 2024