How To Install An Exterior Door In A Concrete Wall

hi guys welcome back to the channel my name is Katie today I'm going to show you how to put an exterior door into a concrete wall with the caveat of the hole it's already cut so we're starting from there before we get into it this channel is about DIY home decor and remodeling so if that sounds like your kind of thing I would love it if you would hit the subscribe button the first thing I need to do is attach some framing to either side of my door opening so that I have something to attach my door to I have two two by six green treated boards that I'm going to attach directly to the concrete flush to the outside of the wall with these three inch concrete anchors now you can't get boards wide enough to bridge the complete depth of the wall you only need to have them why didn't have to fit behind your door jamb and standard door jams are 4 and 9/16 so five and a half inches is plenty I'm going to pre-drill my tube eyes with four evenly spaced holes using a regular drill bit and I just want to make sure that this sides a bit amazing and smaller than the head of the concrete anchors I'll be using next I'm going to hold my board in place and using the holes I just drilled as a guide I'm going to use my hammer drill and a masonry bit to make a hole in the concrete the easiest way that I found to do this is to insert your anchor as soon as you have your hole drilled rather than trying to hold your board in place while you pre-drill all four holes then once your first anchor is in simply work your way down the board first pre drilling for and then installing the rest of your concrete anchors making sure that the outside edge of your 2 by is remaining flush with the outside edges very well now that the framing is that I'm ready to set my door jamb I take the door out for this part because I'm small but this is also a great thing to do if you just don't hate your back so first of all I'm just going to test fit it and then just push it up so that this trim which is called brick mold is flush against my framing in this case once I know that my frame will fit in the opening I'm going to check to make sure that the bottom of my door is either level or very close to it next I'm going to set my frame aside and using some peel 400 adhesive all whether because it's January I'm going to spread it all over the bottom of the opening you probably won't need quite that much but my concrete is tipping this way a little bit so I just want to make sure I have everything covered this glue is gonna serve two purposes in that it's not only going to put your dart into place once you have everything shimmed in the right place it's gonna keep your frame from settling and going wonky over time next I'm going to take some welcome polyurethane sealant or any other kind of exterior caulking this is just my favorite and I'm going to apply a bead to the backside of the brick mold all the way around both sides and the top once all my glue and rock music plays I'm ready to tip my frame into place if possible you want to get your bottom in first and then tilt your top thing that way your frame is sitting down onto the glue that's under the self rather than just smooshing it inside we're going to set the hinge side of my door before I love on my self so I need to make sure of is that either this still is completely level or the hinge side is higher so if it's lower I would stick the shim in there to get it level or higher before I set this side but mine is already higher so I'm going to ignore the sill for now most new doors come with screws to hang your door that match the finish of your door hinges with the bottom of my frame centered between my two tube eyes I'm going to remove one of the hinges on my bottom hinge and I want to make sure it's one of the screws that's in towards the middle of the frame then I'm going to take some shims exactly where the door is sitting fill in the space between the framing and then making sure that the brick mold on the outside of my door is pressed tightly against the wall I'll screw in the longer installation screw once my bottom hinge is set I'm going to set the top hinge holding my six foot level tightly against the face of my bottom hinge I'm going to shim the space behind my top hinge in the framing until my level reads completely plumb next I'm going to replace one of the top hinge screws with a longer installation screw to hold my gym and the shims in place next I'm going to shim behind my middle hinge this time using my level as a straight edge I'm going to shim behind my middle hinge until it is touching the level at the same time that the top and the bottom hinges are touching the level with no spaces between any of the hinges and the level and once my three hinges are completely plumb I will replace one of the middle hinge screws with an installation so now that I have the hinge side in my gym first I'm going to level the silk by shooting up the low side until my level reads seven then using my door as a straightedge I'm going to shim the strike side of my door jamb so that I have about an eighth of an inch gap between my door and the door jamb all the way around the door then gently pulling inside the weatherstripping I'm going to install long screws behind the weatherstripping to hold the shims on the strike side of my GM in place again making sure that's a brick mold on the outside of the door jamb tightly against so once I have my door frame completely set I'm gonna take my 16 gauge nailer and go around and since we're outside make sure your nails are galvanized next I'm going to take my handy dandy Volcom and run a bit of caulking around the outside and the inside of the brick mold all the way around both legs in the top next I spray foamed all the cracks between the wall and the framing and the framing and the jaw but my camera died because we didn't leave enough room in the ref opening to put between the doorjamb and the lintel there wasn't anything for me to screw the top of the jam into so that's why it's really important to pick up some window and door spray foam it's a little less intense so it doesn't compress your door jamb and mess up your openings to be extra sure I also stuck some shims between the top of the door and the jamb to preserve this spacing while the spray foam dried to address a small elephant in the room this method does leave your framing exposed on this particular job site it's not going to be a problem because this whole side of the house is getting excited this spring however if you want to install this kind of set up without signing house all you would have to do is move the brick globe that comes with your door and replace it with a different exterior trim that was wide enough to cover your framing thank you so much for watching if you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask me in the comments down below otherwise if you found this video helpful I would love it if you would hit that like button and consider subscribing and I'll see you next time bye

Channel: Junksaw

Views: 285,583

Keywords: door installation, exterior door, female carpenter, handymom, home improvement, how to add a door in an exterior brick wall, how to install a door in a block wall, how to install a door in a concrete wall, how to install a prehung exterior door in concrete block, how to install an exterior door, how to install an exterior door in a concrete wall, how to install an exterior door on a concrete slab, how to install an exterior prehung door, how to install exterior door

Id: RIUvREf6LR4

Length: 6min 44sec (404 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 25 2020