How To Frame An Unfinished Basement Bathroom

hi guys and welcome to the channel my name is Kiki today everyone to be showing you how to frame in an unfinished basement bathroom I need to frame in this exterior wall in this exterior wall and then I'm also going to have one interior wall right here and this wall is obviously already getting the first thing I'm going to do is measure out for my exterior wall four inches and to that then I'm going to go to the other side of the wall and do the same thing and then I'm going to connect those two marks with a straight line as you can see I already did this without you I apologize the easiest way to connect these two lines is to snap a chalk line if you have a friend hold the other end otherwise you can use a level or your community to my floor that is very straight they are not all that way the reason you come out four inches at the bottom of the wall rather than three and a half which is the thickness of the framing that we're working with is to allow for your concrete foundation a lot being out of put right here for example my level is touching at the top and it's about 3/8 of an inch away from the wall at the bottom so in a span of about six feet this wall is about 3/8 of an inch at Club so by the time I got up to closer to nine feet I'm a lot closer to a half-inch than I'm needing to correct so leaving a space down at the bottom just allows you to correct the blueness of your wall and it also gets you away from and you need to deal with any waviness in the wall next I marked another straight line four inches out from my other exterior wall the scribbly part is where I need to strip out some concrete to move my drain pipe so I'm not going to be framing over top of that today once I had my exterior walls laid out I measured four and cut my 2x4 pressure-treated lumber to fit you always want to use pressure-treated lumber also called green tree anytime you are attaching lumber directly to concrete although treated lumber is not completely waterproof it is adequately protected against the amounts of water that concrete can contain and absorb untreated lumber in direct contact with concrete will rot over time once all of my bottom plates were cut I used a regular drill bit to pre-drill where I wanted all of my concrete anchors to be spaced approximately two feet apart and about three inches in from either end next holding the plates to my straight line on the ground I used a masonry bit in my hammer drill to pre-drill the concrete for the concrete anchors once my anchors were all ready to go I swept the loose concrete dust out of the way applied a generous amount of PL 400 adhesive to the bottom of the plates and installed the plates or 3-inch concrete anchors now that the bottom plates are my exterior walls are all set I'm ready to install bottom plate for this interior wall holding my tape measure to the parallel walls bottom plate I'm going to mark the same distance near each perpendicular wall to where I want my interior wall to be then using a chalk line or a straightedge I'll connect my marks again I decided to do the door layout and framing as a separate shorter video so that I could really dive into all the whys and how's of framing a door rough opening so feel free to click that video link here or also have that video as well as the one about how to correctly frame your tub surround link down in my description box but basically I figured out where my door opening was going to be and I installed the bottom plates for that wall my top plate society for both of my walls going this way and then about my tape measure up to this existing wall and I'm going to measure to the far side of this bottom plate that I just put down and this one I'm just going to measure between these two bottom link so now my top plates are cut and ready to go I'm going to go ahead and lay out my walls on my bottom plates and then copy that layout onto the top plates before I put the top plays in place I'm going to start on this back wall because there won't be anything special with the layout I'm gonna lay my studs out 16 inches on center 16 or 24 inches on center is standard on Center means to the center of your stud so that means if somebody butts their tape measure up against this law and cut 16 inches this way they should find the center of your stud so that means because if Ed is an inch and a half thick you actually need to come 3/4 inches back so 15 and 1/4 for our first one and then make an X to the side where it's everything to go and then I'll come here just to remind myself that I need a stud so a 16 inch on center layout is all of your red highlighted numbers on your tape measure so my next number is 32 inches I'm gonna come back three quarters of an inch which is my X Oh Nick I'm just gonna work my way down the rest of the wall marking about 3/4 inches back when I get to this far corner of my wall I'm just going to make a mark where the two plates run into each other and put an X on this side of that mark to remind myself to put a stud right there or very well banking there are no rules about which direction you're supposed to pull your layout from so when guy but my tape measurer to the fifth wall or this one she hit my layout and this one doesn't matter but sometimes it is helpful especially on small walls that won't take much time to take a look and make sure that your layout and they're going to interfere with any of your other fixtures that are going to be in your wall in this specific case if I put my layout from this wall my very first 16 inch on center stud would be exactly where our drain pipe is going to go even if I decided to move just that stud to one side of the other I would be risking my stuff or summer notes forgetting about it including some trim nail or something right into the drain pipe because we forgot that it was right on our layout so the cake it should learn us just to pull my route from the other direction so that might send me out exactly on either side where the drain pipe is gonna go because I for the trimmer and then another inch and a half so at 3 inches for the Kingston and safety here we'll mark it out for the heck of it having it so this left in my layout is actually going to be too close to my trimmer and my Kingston to put it exactly where I marked it up which is not a problem at all we'll just put it on the direct far side of the Kings bed once I have everything laid out I'm going to take my speed square I mark up my line straight across my face so then I have a nice straight line to follow when I'm styling my steps then I'm going to take my top plate and lay it right next to my base plate and using the speed square I'm going to transfer all my markings straight across for just this lot I'm going to need to make some extra markings in my top plate because I need to continue my layout across the top of my door where I don't have it here on my basement so I'm going to hold my tape measure to my last marks on layout and then because I have it held exactly to the line I'm going to mark exactly on the red number rather than holding it back 3/4 of an age and curing that layout approximate doorway and then do the exact same for my other two walls now that I have all of my bottom and top plates laid out and ready to install my top plates on the ceiling when it comes to installing hot plates in the basement you need them to be plumb in all directions meaning that I need my top plate to be completely pouring up from my bottom plate this way and as well as this way I'm ready checked and this law is completely fun which is awesome so that means that I can hold this top plate right against that wall and not have to worry about plumbing my wall this way if you do not have an existing perfectly plumb law to hold your top plate again you'll need to pull the line up from one of the far ends of your bottom plate and then when you go to install your top plate you'll hold the far end of your top plate to that mark in addition to this next step [Music] this way to plan something this job you can probably use a plate level which you cover those you're probably not getting a whole lot of use out of this video or you can take a regular six-foot level and a very straight and then Mark out on one of these floor joists on the same side that you buy it that's touching my bottom plate as soon as I make that line I'm going to make it later now that I am working with a wood surface it's okay that I don't have any friends I'm going to use a nail to attach the middle tab on the end of my chalk line to one of my marks then holding my chalk line on my other mark I'm going to snap a line next I'm going to screw my top plate into place making sure that my layout is facing down and mirroring the layout on the bottom plate if you also have no friends it's easiest to begin attaching your top plate at the middle and then work your way out to either end making sure to put two screws in each joist and holding the front of the top plate to the straight line for my next top plate I needed to install several pieces of backing between the ceiling joists two reasons first of all the front of this top plate falls in the gap between two ceiling joists so I will mark out the straight line for the front of my plate across these pieces and I will also attach the front of my plate to these pieces secondly because the top of this wall falls between two ceiling joists I need to add drywall backing here for the ceiling drywall to attach to because of that second reason I needed to make sure that these backing pieces were no further apart than two foot on center after that I installed this top plate exactly like the last one holding the end of it to the top plate I just installed to pull it from front to back and following my chalk line on the ceiling to pull it from side to side once all of my plates were in place I was finally ready to fill in the studs this is easy part people just from the top of your bottom plate to the bottom of your top plate everywhere there's an X and cut is said to that link in a basement you're working between increases in floor and ceiling so you actually need to measure the length for every single one of your steps because the distance between your plates it's different from watch a lot and even from stepheson basically every part of basement framing takes four times longer than regular framing but it's not structural so it's really not a big deal if you do it wrong so there is that to install the wall studs you want two screws attaching it at the top to the top plate and two screws at the bottom attaching it to the bottom plate I keep saying screws because that's what I'm using it is actually more standard to install top plates and studs with nails but I do not have a framing new gun for a room this size I probably wouldn't worry about it but if you're considering framing an entire basement I would absolutely recommend borrowing or renting a framing nailer install the king studs installed the trimmers install the header install the box okay guys now the other thing is that except for a couple of studs we'll have to put in once you get the drain pipe move all I have left to do is go around and check for dry log vacuum and frame for the tub surround but again separate video drywall backing is framing that you put in place that isn't a structural part of your wall or ceiling but is there for the drywall to attach itself to whenever you are finished framing you want to go around and basically look at all of the inside corners of your walls and where your wall meets your ceiling and actually the only spot we needed it inside the bathroom was above that top plate where we already put it so I'm gonna show you what I'm talking about on the other side of the bathroom lock so because of the way the new wall met the existing wall when drywall is attached to the existing wall there is nothing along the very edge of where the drywall will be for the drywall to attach to so you take scrap pieces that you've been creating as you've been framing and you use those as your drywall backing in this case there's a stud directly behind the new wall that I'm able to screw the backing into from the side and now the edge of my drywall has something to attach to tada if you have any questions please feel free to ask them in the comments down below and I will do my best to answer them if you liked the video please hit the like button if you want to see more like this hit the subscribe button thank you for watching bye

Channel: Junksaw

Views: 117,621

Keywords: how to frame an unfinished basement bathroom, how to frame a basement bathroom, how to frame an unfinished basement, how to frame a basement, how to frame, unfishised basement finish, basement finish, basement bathroom finish, how to frame 2x4 walls in a basement, how to frame 2x4 stud walls in an unfinished basement, basement bathroom, home improvement, do it yourself, how to frame walls, basement bathroom framing, basement bathroom remodel, female carpenter, girls with tools

Id: ZZk8ljN-IUY

Length: 13min 6sec (786 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 09 2020