How to Install a New Exterior Door

in this video I'm gonna show you a great system for installing a brand new door in a really old house [Music] welcome to my new front door this is a balloon construction house we're not exactly sure what we're gonna find beneath the siding because this house of course is 130 40 years old and is layer on layer so our first job here today is to pull all this siding off and exposed back to the original siding of this house which we hope is still there and hope it's still in decent shape and then we'll see what we have to do to go from there so as you can see there originally with the door here unbeknownst to us so that changes our approach a little bit so originally I think our doors gonna go somewhere around here and our plan was to remove these boards where our door was going so that we can install our door with our brick mold flush up against the board so we're gonna continue with that I just going to drill my four corners from the inside and then I'll outline it and then we're gonna throw on our laser line and we'll remove all the panels here I think we'll leave the rest of this board on today just for good measure but we're definitely gonna end up removing all of it and putting a new siding all right so here's our basic steel masonite door six panel steel nothing fancy about this but what we're gonna do in another video at a later date we're gonna cut this hole out and we're gonna go with a full glass insert it'll save you a ton of money so we'll show you that another day but for now if you measure off the bottom metal sill here you're gonna find that it's the same measurement exact as what they say the door is so this is a 36 inch door I've got a 36 inch plate down there and when you add your brick mold you actually bring it right up to the side of that okay so when you're measuring this it's really simple math you measure your cell plate plus your brick mold which is 2 inches that's standard yours might be different but for us that's 2 inches both sides so I've got a 36 plus 2 plus 2 it's a 40 inch hole very simple now since we're gonna be replacing this particular siding with something in a later date we're gonna give ourselves a little bit of wiggle room but if you were installing in something that was absolutely pristine condition you could just add a quarter-inch to this hole and have an eighth inch gap on each side and then finish all that off with a bit of polyurethane cocking and you'd be good as gold but for us we're gonna go to the 40 inch hole and we're gonna add probably a half an inch and then we'll be able to install this bad boy in just a few minutes so inside I'm just gonna go mark my centerline where I want the door and then I'm going to measure 20 inch from each side I'm gonna drill the holes and then cut it out with a sawzall and then we're pretty much ready to go [Music] [Music] [Applause] now we have a door I don't think there's any wood on there that we can save a that we want to save no we're not gonna try to recent salvage any of this what does this weigh about 150 pounds jeez Louise let's go yeah that's where that works one two three flip it okay so this is one of the challenges you have when you're dealing with such an old structure foundations is settling there's nothing square or level in a new home try a hundred and forty years old like seriously the goal here is to try to create a scenario where any moisture that gets in behind the exterior of the building or in behind the framing of the door we're just gonna follow the path of least resistance we want to create a path of resistance so that it follows back outside of the building again and this is where this blue-skinned product comes in this is just magic stuff right if you haven't seen this before that'd be surprised what I'm doing is I'm gonna create an area of Blueskin inside the building and it's not gonna stick very well with this old wood but that's gonna be fine now my goal here is actually to a later date I'm gonna pull all the wood off this facade from this row of boards down and we're going to install cement poured probably three layers a half-inch and we'll bring that right up underneath this blue skin and then we'll wrap that over top but if your building is in solid condition then what you do is you just wrap this over the facade okay and that's your exit point we're going to install this here this is about the spot where the door closes for people actually if they step on the transition are gonna stand on it and now that we have that done I'm going to take my last layer okay so here we go now we've got a membrane and you're gonna see what I'm doing is I'm creating an environment here where the water gets in it's gonna run down it's gonna hit this plate and instead of coming into the building because the house is sloped and it's sloped in it's gonna come into this area here and then be directed out okay that is the secret this is what we call the Jeff approved method you're not going to find this on that website anywhere in the world so the other thing you want to do is you want to seal up the side of your house what I'm going to do is start from the bottom and work my way up that way I can be confident I have enough to finish the job at the bottom here and this stuff actually stretches around pretty good so you can manipulate it and mold it the way according what you need this stuff sticks really good to new wood not so good to old wood just staple the bugger on until you get the time to get the type are and then you can red tape it all in so now the house is sealed up yeah once we get to the next step and we'll talk about it when we go to the siding about finishing the water diversion system when we want to focus on this down here when we install our door jamb right we're gonna be foaming installation spray all the way down so water won't go past that it'll be directed down the front on the inside of this 1 by 3 and then the only place that'll go to run this way because the building slopes that way and it'll find the exit here it's the only option it has that's why it's gonna work so effectively when we put the door and we're gonna use these cedar shims and we'll build up this corner to get the level point and then block a few others points along the way but every six inches that'll give it some strength we'll foam that gap we're good to go so I'm a little spoiled rotten ear today cuz I got my helper doing all the heavy lifting but if you don't have somebody to help you I'm going to show you a little secret what we do is we attach the two-by-four near the top of the door across the frame you opening remember the jamb size on your door is not thicker than your whole wall package so you can actually set it in place and then we can put another 2x4 across in front that allows you to manipulate the door and get it level in square and shim then everything just the way you want it and then you can remove once you've got a screw in and then you can remove all this extra framing brilliant so really all you have to do here set up your level once you've got your level established then it's about making everything flush as long as the wall is relatively plump so we're gonna go like this right off the edge of the my frame on the corner here I'm going to show my laser line and I'm just gonna lift this side with shims underneath the jamb which is where the end of the support and half of this plate the reason for that being you want support both on the jamb that's carrying part of the door and on the plate when people step on it it transfers down over you'll ever put the shims in backwards the two ramps when I slide them together it creates a perfect little rectangle and makes the door nice and flat nice and flush so I would do now is I hold the bottom shim and I push the top one in while I'm lifting up the weight to make it thicker hopefully put this where I want it oh nice this is just a matter of trial and error there we go nice and plumb we know that if this doors level here most likely that's I'm sorry if that's plumb there then this is probably level here let's throw the cross line laser on let's have a look yeah that looks pretty good there's the benefit of having a laser you can use the level to create plumb as much as you like though you're installing a door and you have a laser you are guaranteed a perfect result every single time so now that I got my plumb line I know my door fits the hole everything's comfortable I just traced the line where the flush I put this line where that shim goes together and I know that that combination of shim is the same thickness here as it is here as it is underneath the door so as long as these two lines are at the door and not the other ship no matter where I put the store in a minute it's gonna be perfect okay so we can get rid of all of this now and we can remove hard extra 2x4 here so remember there's a two-by-four keeping the door from falling out on that side right so what you want to do to install your door is open your door up right there set it on your 2x4 find another couple of pieces of blocks maybe a few shims set up a nice line all right we'll throw the laser on this we're just gonna throw it on the detail or the door it's not flesh yet it's gonna take a couple more shims it's always plumb in really old houses getting anything perfectly plumb is tricky sometimes the more important if she was flushed like outside we really want to have our brick mold flush to the outside of the house it's not plumb so our door isn't gonna go in perfectly plumb at this point the only issue it has is if it's left open a crack it might have the tendency to open a little bit more which is fine I'd rather live with that and make sure that the outside of the door is completely plumbed and flush flush gives me waterproof so if you have to choose between plumb and flush go with flush every time now we're just gonna take a few shims you can see this is there's a lot of room to play here right from this side all over this side we want to get these things in here about every four inches so that when anybody steps on this there's a direct load transfer from this plate into the shim to the wood and that will keep everything from breaking apart and opening up gaps over time that will cause nasty drafts there we go you don't want to lift this you just want to create contact it's really easy to over shim and then your end up creating a bow and then your door won't seal properly we're not gonna foam the bottom until we have the entire doorframe screwed in because if we did cause a bow we won't know until we go to close the door so we're gonna get the rest of the door installed first and then we'll come back to it so the door comes a little package with my missing hinge screws and the idea here is as you put shims in behind these and you use this as your anchoring point so really the whole goal here let's just get the shims in or the snug back it up and then come from this side so that you keep the everything's square all right before we drive these screws in well throw the laser level on it one more time real quick just to confirm whoops there we go we want to Snug remember if it's not snug when you drive the screw it'll pull it in tighter you'll get a bow how it looks pretty good I don't know if those screws are long enough but we'll see [Music] what we want to do is we want to put a screw on this Jam but we don't to put it here where it's visible we want to bury it where it's not ever going to be covered up so if you ever have to make adjustments you have access to it remember as the house moves and breeze and stretches and expands you might want to make adjustments to your door over time so what we're going to do is pull this out of the way gently okay take your shim and hold it right there and then take your screw right up against that shim and then when you release this should basically cover everything up now new door is always gonna have a really good seal on the bottom all right now you can see what your gap looks like here so we know how much to manipulate this Jam so you really want to do three locations on your jam the bottom middle and top if you need to add another one to get rid of a warped you can but let's start with the first three okay okay okay the gap is good opens up too much right not a problem there we go that's the beautiful thing about shims you can adjust down to 1/32 of an inch with a great deal of confidence beautiful kappa cross the top is nice and consistent okay so really now what we have to do is just add our sims to the bottom again okay put the thick side through and then i'm just trying to eyeball to put four inches under and then I'm gonna come up meet up okay whew the best part of working with new doors is these brick bolts they're designed to follow this little line that's in the trim there's a little line detail here and that's where your trim stops and starts you have something to measure - generally speaking they come out of the box already pre-cut perfect height for the door all you have to do is cut the width so you can line it up on that line put your inside corner on that line and then fire away now because of the age of this house even though we set it up flush it only gets so close right so what you want to do is be easy on yourself don't be too hard on yourself if you don't get it perfectly flush if you're gonna put in a piece a a poly bead here anyway or some quad or some sort of exterior caulking before you paint okay that's that side let's grab the other side there we go now we measure the top to measure outside to outside it's a lot easier to cut on the saw that way I'm looking at 39 and 3/4 I think it'll be perfect let's go see if we can make a cut this is pre made for a 36 inch door now 36 is not the most common door size in the world but I'm using it as a front door I'm setting it up so that it's easy to move furniture in the end of the house at a later date so there's no reason to cut this down just always is this was gonna be absolutely crazy haricot ladies and gentlemen doors trimmed crazy that's awesome okay so last part is the filming and of course I love my gun this is the kind of thing that every home owner DIY or should use because you can stick this in really small spaces the idea is you don't want to install your foam from here and try to push it to the other side you'll end up over foaming and you're not concerned if the foam gets all the way to the other side because your thermal break on this wall is where the door is the door is only r5 nothing you can do about that you're going to spend as much money on as the doors you want there are five wood or glass r5 so you want your insulation to be in line with the thermal break so what I do is I am on an angle and I'm just shooting a door and window bead that's gonna have some expansion and I wanted to expand towards the front and towards the rear at the same time and the trigger on this gun gives you an incredible amount of control to give you an idea I can really shoot a lot of foam out of this gun in a hurry okay but just a little bit of pressure on that trigger that's you filled the gap or the speed that you're comfortable with this gets rid of the air gap and the draught it's not gonna give you any structural support that's what the cedars for don't rely on the foam because it will not carry the load all by itself the reviews too much you can just trim it off later now if I need a lot I use it a lot this is designed for low expansion it's not going to cause the door to buckle [Applause] go grab yourself a hot coffee on a day like today and just let it dry no I'm also gonna take a ladder and I'm gonna shoot up a front get a good seal there Oh tomorrow's job is I'm going to cut these blocks out and put in a proper header and then I'll film that as well dance when you're done just close the handle and it seals this up we up here at the top of the shaft so it's ready to be used again tomorrow just make sure you store it upright or all the gas will leak out and then it won't work okay so the only thing left to do with this door is to install all the hardware that's for another video because I'm going to buy a key lock passage set I've got to drill my own hole and I have to drill a hole from a beautiful handle I'm gonna show you all how to do that the next time so make sure to check out all the videos on our modern rustic farmhouse remodel and don't forget to subscribe

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 305,508

Keywords: renovision, entry door, install a front door, installing an exterior door, how to install exterior door, how to install a new exterior door, exterior door installation, how to install a new front door, front door installation, exterior door, front door installation diy, exterior front door installation, entry door installation video, exterior door installation youtube, exterior door installation diy, how to install a new exterior door frame

Id: JJWdYHU-VaM

Length: 21min 1sec (1261 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 27 2019