How to hand sharpen band sawmill blades. cheap easy and effective. plus my big secret reveal.

hey guys welcome back to hood's custom shop so guys today i'm going to be using this pedestal grinder here and i'm going to be showing you guys how i sharpen my bandsaw blades for my sawmill so here we go all right guys so what we got here is our uh our fine grit um grinding stone on our delta little six inch delta uh pedestal grinder here i guess you could mount it on a bench or whatever you want to do but for me it works best mounted on a pedestal and this right here is about chest height for me so it's i don't know probably four and a half foot off the ground right here all right so that works pretty good all right so what you're going to need is a good pair of gloves and you're also going to probably need some respirator uh help to keep the dust out of your lungs and everything but you want to shape your grinding wheel similar to like i have right here because you're going to be using this side of your grinding wheel to grind on the face of your tooth and then you need this right here to be able to grind down in the gullet okay so let me show you how that is done uh you would shape your wheel with a piece of diamond wheel shaper piece like this right here that came with my uh with my grinder or you might go to a machine shop and see if they have a diamond encrusted grinding wheel shaper like this that you can buy off of maybe a used one or something so that right there is pretty nice you just you can clamp this in a pair of vice grips or something you can use that to really shape your grinding wheel all right so let's uh let's clean this up a little bit because we got a little little spot right here that kind of needs cleaned up [Music] [Applause] as you can see there's quite a bit of dust that comes off of it [Applause] all right got that cleaned up pretty good got dust all over me all right so let's let this thing slow down all right so right here on this side what i did was i relieved uh back in here a little bit just kind of made it go in at a little bit of an angle so we're not grinding the very tip until we have it out here towards the edge all right and then this right here is just clearanced so that'll fit down in the gullet let me grab one of my blades here all right so i got one of my blades here and the first thing i want to do is find the weld seam on my blade which is kind of hard to do on these monk force blades because they they do such a good job there it is right here all right here's my weld seam as you can see that's that's very nicely ground you can really hardly tell where it was uh where it was welded but anyway this is kind of the the point where we want to start at especially on blades like this where you can't even really tell that it needs sharpen but it does need to touched up a little bit so anyways let's get started here uh so what i want to do is i'm going to come in with it on of course but i'll come in like this down into the gullet i'm going to touch right here on the face of that tooth right there all right and then we'll go work this way down into the gullet and up the back side of this tube i will come over now see the angle of these markings i have right here those are markings that i scratched on there to help me line this up so i'll come in i'll hit the face of that tooth very briefly just very very briefly briefly we do not need to take much off right just lightly hit the face of that tooth down into the gullet and up the backside of the next and so on and so forth take your time be very gentle don't take off too much material and you should be fine so here we go guys let's get her done [Music] do [Music] this [Music] so [Music] one [Music] [Music] me [Music] so [Music] all right guys so you just watched me go through and sharpen up all these teeth man i can just feel how sharp that is it's very uh cat claw like so let's go get this set up over here on this makeshift bench that i have and i'll show you guys how i set the teeth so let's get after it all right guys i know from the angle you're at right now it may not be uh super easy to see what i'm doing here but hopefully i can explain this well enough to you so basically you can look at the top down on these teeth right here and let's start off right here where this weld seam is you can see the little grind marks here where they ground off that weld that's where we always kind of want to start at that way we know when we've come back around to that spot now if you have a hard time seeing it like this right here you might grab you a paint marker or something you know yellow or white paint marker or something and mark that right there so it is a little more obvious that way you're not working your way around this thing multiple times because i'll tell you what there's a lot of teeth on this blade and i've got 21 or so of these to do so i don't want to be doing multiple teeth over and over again all right so looking down uh onto the blade from the top right here right here at the weld seam it's really on this one has kind of gotten difficult to tell because this is probably the second time i've actually sharpened this blade so anyways looking at it one one tooth is actually going to be straight this one is going to bent to the inside this one right here is bent to the outside then this one is straight and so on and so forth all the way around the blade so every other every other tooth on there you want to bend it uh to the opposite side so what you want to do what i'm going to do is set this up all right i've got it set uh let's see but it's uh right there on the eight i guess that's uh eight degrees or something like that i don't know this right here is just an old uh tooth setter i got from a yard sale from a guy who owned a sawmill uh just an old timer and this right here's what he used to set the the teeth on his bandsaw blades he had a an old wood miser but it doesn't matter what brand of sawmill you have if it's a bandsaw sawmill then you can use something like this right here to set them all right now you want to kind of be careful and make sure uh you get this all the way down in the gullet as you can see right there that's down kind of sitting on the gullet and the left side we get that all the way down in there okay and then basically well if you can see that you just crimp it like this like that push it over and uh it's it's kind of hard to tell but that right there actually moved over several thousandths of an inch and what that does is help create the gap in the board to allow the the spine of the blade to ride through the cut without being pinched okay and it helps clear out the sawdust and everything so what we'll do is we'll go through here and every every other tooth or every third tooth it is one to the left one that's not bent and then one to the right one to the left okay so we'll go through there do that all the way around this blade and then what i'll do for the other ones that are bent outwards towards me i'll just flip it around like this right here all right and you do you do have to be pretty mindful of what you're doing here but just flip it around like that right there and crimp it in okay and i tend to go this direction instead of that direction because it's just easier and you're not running the sharp part of that tooth into the the metal part of this setter right here so [Music] so [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] do [Music] bye [Applause] foreign [Music] you [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right guys hopefully uh that will help you guys out on how to sharpen and set your own sawmill blade teeth as you can see as i was grinding these i was setting my own angle on them i was actually making it a little bit steeper a little more aggressive because i will be milling primarily pine with these so these are a seven to eight degree i believe is what they call it or seven eighths and so i wanted more of a 10 degree a little bit sharper more aggressive hook angle to to these teeth and basically that is just in reference to the uh the face of the tooth you know that hook angle on there so you know with softer woods you actually want a more aggressive hook angle more like a 10 degree you could actually go all the way up to like a 14 but the the more aggressive that angle gets the more that blade wants to rise and fall in the cut so basically if you get like a four to five degree ang hook angle that is very slow but it works pretty good in really hard woods okay uh a seven to eight or seven eighths whatever they call that uh you know seven or eight degree angle that's going to be just kind of a you know general uh blade that's going to work with soft woods hardwoods pretty much everything uh and be you know satisfactory um you know but with uh if you're doing mostly just uh soft woods from what i understand a 10 degree angle blade is that's the uh that's the sweet spot so anyways hopefully this video helped you guys out on that maybe it'll help you save a little money as you get started into saw milling and yeah you don't have to buy brand new blades every time you dole a blade because these blades last for several sharpenings if you do everything right you want to make sure you get down in the gullet and because there's micro fractures that can start in the gullet and if you grind the start of that micro fracture out that will help make your blade last a bit longer all right uh and the main thing to sharpening one of these is be very very very consistent pay very close attention to detail being very consistent to try to make sure the tip top of that tooth is exactly the same take off the exact amount every time i know that's really hard for a lot of people to grasp that concept but there are people out there that can do it maybe i'm one of them i mean i'm not saying i'm perfect at it but i do a good enough job that i could probably uh measure these with a pair of calipers and be within a few thousands of an inch on each one so that will actually produce a fairly satisfactory uh product in product or whatever without having to you know necessarily run it through a planer if all you're looking for is rough sun lumber i mean after all that's what you should be expecting off of a sawmill is rough on lumber not finished stuff all right so uh you need to expect that it's going to be a little rough kind of like this board right here that i'm working on it's a little rough it hasn't been ran through a plane or anything but you can sharpen these up and get satisfactory results uh if you if you really pay attention to detail and do exactly like i just showed you i would go throw this on the mill right now and throw a log on there and mill it for you but i'm gonna wait until i get to the 41.36 because i don't really have very many pine logs laying around here to mess with and uh i'm just getting everything ready uh to go over there and mail for them so you guys will have to stay tuned watch the video on that and you'll get to see this blade in action i'm actually going to go put this on the mill but i'm not going to use it uh it's just going to be on the mill that way this will be separate from all the other blades so you guys will be able to see just how well this thing cuts uh whenever i get out there and start milling all right i'll i'll be sure to share that with you so anyways if you guys haven't already go check out uh simple life reclaim and country road cure over there on 41.36 their youtube channels are super awesome they are still on the ground floor breaking ground building their homes and everything uh country road cure right now actually has their shed to homes they're getting power to the property so far they have been off grid which you know if you're running off of generators you all know that's pretty expensive and so they're trying to control their costs they're getting electricity out there uh going to be getting that hopefully by the time i get out there that'd be pretty cool so yeah we're gonna have uh i guess i'll let the cat out of the bag we're gonna have actually two sawmills out there set up and running we're gonna have mine and somebody else's sawmills out there running at the same time we'll have the log arch trailer out there to load logs onto those mills and get as much busted out as fast as we can get as much done for them as we can and we're also going to be going over tuesday to bobblehead homestead so make sure you go check out jeff's channel uh called bobblehead homestead uh really awesome dude and we're gonna be out there for his birthday a whole bunch of channels out there actually uh helping do a lot of uh you know things on his property uh to help him out so that is going to be really awesome i mean probably the main thing is that we get to hang out with bobblehead so jeff is really cool i met him on the 41.36 at the 4th of july freedom fest party which was super awesome uh got to meet drew out there and a whole bunch of other youtubers that i've actually met before but you know yeah we got to meet a few other others out there and uh also looking forward to meeting uh mama v from possum run homestead that's another channel out there and her channel is blowing up she is like just across the mountain from the 41.36 so i might be doing some milling for her also while i'm out there and then i've got another special treat for you guys the la that's lining up i'm not for sure if it's gonna happen but it's uh very likely going to happen uh going to possibly be going to help someone build their schoolie so anyways we'll see you guys later thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe smash that thumbs up we'll see you next time bye

Channel: HOODS CUSTOM SHOP

Views: 102,716

Keywords: #woodlandmills, #sawmill, #bandsaw, #bladesharpener, #moneysavingtips, #sawyer, #wood, #arboristsofinstagram, #maintenance, #woodworkers, #diy, #selfreliance, #selfsufficient, #littlelifestylez, #livingsimple, #simplelifereclaimed, #countryroadcure, #getit, #thesimplelife, #creatorscreate

Id: PqQFtYUwGmE

Length: 20min 43sec (1243 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 10 2021