Homemade bandsaw blade sharpener

well we have a whole bunch of parts in front of us right now let's see if we can't put it together together and make us an automatic bandsaw blade sharpener i will do my best to explain each part as we go along with the sizes dimensions where i've got them or anything else if i forget anything or you have questions about it please just leave a message in the comment and i'll get back with you let's get started get all these pieces out of the way we'll start with the base here the base is just some scrap metal add sitting around the dimensions of it are 16 by nine it's 16 gauge or 50 thousandths i had some scrap one inch angle laying around i just cut some 16 inch pieces and as you see tack welded on the bottom get it up off the ground stiffen it up a little bit well i guess the next thing you need to do is get our bandsaw blade guide rails in place this is what they are they are seven three quarter inches long three quarters of an inch wide and again that was just a piece of angle i had laying around i cut it off with the plasma cutter i made these on them let's get this installed on here we want to bring it up to the edge almost to the end over here i probably got it oh i don't know eighth inch away [Music] that looks like so i got two five sixteenths and washers i'm gonna set in here use it as a spacer [Music] yeah let's tackle it in place no that's a nasty looking bird what's next you get to mount this this is your cheap chainsaw sharpener you can buy them on amazon ebay you can get a harbor freight they're like 40 dollars i've taken it apart right here at the hinge there's a pin in the spring don't need to spring now there is a lip here on the back see if i can get you guys to see it comes down and over and up i have removed that that will get in the way of its pivoting function i just took a little hacksaw and cut it out but let's get that mounted the hinge or the bracket we're going to use for it is just some two inch angle eighth inch thick it's three inches long like i said it's two inch angle and this piece here is nothing more than one of these ears cut off i've drilled a hole in the top slide a bolt through and that will give us our pivoting function that we will need later this is a spacer i made right here this is out of half inch stock square stock i don't know where i got it good i just have it laying around what that will do is that will fit right in here and give us a place for our pin to go through and this to pivot on so let's get that pins together and hold it in place i'm going to snug this down so it don't flop around on me take this in here here's the pin that you'll get everybody's well how do you line anything up well it's not that difficult what you're going to do is you're going to bring it over and take the center line of the motor and line it up with the center line of your guide say somewhere in there about right get it centered we're gonna square it up along the back we call that good well we got this installed the next thing we got to do is we got to get a little lifting arm here's the mounts for the lifting arm again this is the two inch angle it's an inch wide i've drilled a couple 3 8 holes in it this one has a shorter perch on it and the shorter perch is because it's going to go close to our guide over here that thing together before we do that the dimensions on this thing are from the end to the very end see if i can show this it's right around seven and a half inches the width of it is two and three quarters and the width here is three and a quarter now i have welded a quarter inch washer on there and that quarter inch washer will ride right here where the rod and it allows it not to fall off or slide or move these two pieces are just some eighth inch i had laying around i probably got it out of that piece of angle with a 3 8 hole drilled in it these things are inch and a half long half inch wide and again you'll see what that's going to be used for here in a minute that put together get it right on here that up under [Music] try to get this straight i'm getting this parallel with the outside reason we don't edge to stay all right call that pretty good maybe there let's get that put in place so oh now we have a method of lifting our motor up something our cam can follow here's the two bearings work i'm going to use these are just two little well i don't even know what size they are 3x bolt fits in pretty good the number on the bearing is 6900 z they're really inexpensive you can pick them up on amazon i think i get them in packs of 10 for like eight dollars so two bearings in put a bolt in grab a nut and it's good enough for now there's a nice bearing area to ride on our little motor stand here again this is just that same 16 gauge uh i cut it out dimensions on it four and five eighths five and a half oh that's two and three eighths dimensions back here aren't too important you just need something solid hold the motor in place uh i've because this stuff is not strongest in the world i've taken some quarter inch rod and stiffened it up the important thing is is your center line your center line from there to there is four and a half inches and that's going to be to accommodate the height of the wheel to the height of this you don't want your wheel way down here and they don't have no where to travel no room to travel and then again up here same deal you know you have it way too tall that's just a good midpoint so you get this made suppose we can get the motor installed here's the motor right here it's a gearson 12 volt 15 rpm motor um you can see in my hand they're pretty small but it seems to have plenty of power to do that what we're doing um got this on amazon they're like i don't know 15 or so let's get this thing mounted up in here our wheel that we're going to make our cam out of not rocket science it's just a piece of masonite i cut out six inch hole saw gave me a centering point after it's cut out it is five and three quarters round you are going to have to get these this is the mounting flange that goes with the motor this has a six millimeter shaft on it this is a six millimeter mounting flange and it was just centered on there put in now this here the hole that we have that is going to give us depending upon how far away or how close to the center will give us our travel to push our band saw blade most band saw blades have a seven eighths two spacing one inch inch and eight so they're all over the place everybody has their own favor this you want right around i don't know if i can show you that too well or not that is three quarters of an inch center to center and you want it to be pretty much right there maybe a little longer maybe a little shorter it depends on your two spacing but three quarters of an inch on here gives me an inch and a half travel down there so that should work out pretty good it's just a 3 8 bolt we're going to put through here now i have ground the back side of this so it will clear the mounting flange this is another piece of that half inch stock it's just a spacer used to get me off the threads and we're going to snug that down it's pretty tight you don't want it moving you don't want no play in it you have that there this will just slide on your shaft grab a clamp that'll hold that down now that we got our cam wheel on and our pusher we need a rod to go between here and there an adjustable rod and i've made this this is eighth inch stock it's half inch wide from the end of the teeth eight and a half inches overall length almost eleven distance in between here two and an eight this is one part here's another part of it this here is the block that's going to sit on here it's allowed to rotate this was just cut out of some half inch stock i had laying around if you look it kind of almost fits in there like it used to be there uh [Music] those things 5 8 of an inch wide inch long half inch wide this 3 8 hole allows it to go over the 3 8 bolt this here runs all the way through it is threaded for a quarter inch rod all thread and i will show you how this all goes together and why it is the way it is this is my quarter inch all thread i had these little nuts it's just red loctited on i've already set the distance on this this has red light this is a spring so when you put this thing together and you're tightening it it creates a certain amount of tension on that rod so it don't come loose it'll stay in whatever position we determine we want it at and it'll stay there let this thing thread it in here i'm going to move it to just about the halfway point push it through put a nut on it and there you have it this will go on here now if we move this this way pushes the rod that way we back this off pulls the rod back this way and we'll have a nut here we'll put on and that should pretty much get us to about where we need to be i'd say right now i'd say we're pretty much close enough to get a band out start making showing you how to do this cam wheel not the hardest thing in the world it just requires a little bit of patience i guess i'd say let me grab a band and get started forgot one thing before we get started this here is just a little piece of quarter inch rod and we're going to take and weld it right here in the corner i will tell you why and show you guys here in a minute let me get this thing tacked into place burn the [ __ ] out of my fingers that's all that's needed for that let me grab a bean there we go we got a band this up out of the way spacers we had in previous we no longer need straighten it out slide it in we got the band let's get this out of our way back you up a little bit here let you see everything i just have it sitting on some of these scrap pieces of metal as a spacer there's nothing too special about it back in the focus again i think i now got it set up to the point to where you can see everything i'm doing and it'll be much easier to explain from this point let's get this thing set up so we can mark that cam and get it ground out loosen this up slide it back out of our way bearings out we're going to put a little bolt in that won't protrude through the back side with a nut there's a reason for it it's going to create a flat spot for a pencil to be taped to slide that up flat spot right there all right now let's get this thing moved over [Applause] uh let's put the pencil in first tape and i made me a little itty bitty pencil to sharpen it up on the grinder two right here i'm gonna let it stick out the back side about an eighth of an inch that should be good to hold our pencil in place what you want to do is you want to line this center point up with a center point which is somewhere in there just tighten down and what i'm doing is i got this block a half inch i'm laying on the back and i'm going to slide this other clamp onto it because we do not want that to move once we start marking that seems pretty sturdy now we moved this thing all forward a little bit so we're going to put three spacers on there put a wheel on or adjustment rod sorry put let's see if i can just peel this back there we go get our little pencil out of the way and now we're going to set our gap put a little pressure on it as if the machine was working itself rotate the wheel around let it make a full stroke and i don't know if you can see it but right here there is a gap so we need to move it back make a full rotation we just want that wheel just to touch it and it's touching too much so we go back the other way a little bit and we do it again this will take a few times and right there just misses it all right now that it just misses it that is our set now we have to come all the way back around and right here where it touches and just begins to push that's gonna be right here is our maximum down meaning i shouldn't say maximum down but the beginning of the cut so let's get our little pencil in here i can do this get it up against the wheel we're gonna put a little bit of down pressure on this here and actually i'm going to hold that pencil too and we're going to rotate this thing through and you watch it follows the tooth and as it follows the tooth we're going to get to the highest point right there i'm using both fingers to hold it so once we go past that point right there that's its highest point so our cam profile is between this line and this line from here to there is going to be our profile coming into the cut and from here to here is going to be our profile coming out of the cut into its highest point when its highest point is going to be up here so we're going to take this and we're just going well you know what let's see here let's get rid of our pencil because we are now done with it let's take this off and we'll draw some pretty lines i got this thing here and i'm going to squeeze it something like that and i'll do the same over here now you hold on a second i i'm going to take this and we're going to go cut it out i'm going to take it over to the grinder it's a belt sander and i am going to take and grab now that we're back from the grinding wheel got that roughed end remember we're concerned about from here to here this is just the entrance how smooth it comes in from here out is its exit point let's get it put together and we'll fine tune it let's get rid of this get our bearing back in there and we'll get everything scooted forward where it should be now let's see how close we are whoa kicked the camera let's get you guys here one more good deal above we're gonna move this up i'm just going to watch it yeah get a little back light for that but we are looking at the gap between the wheel it should be consistent all the way across yeah we have a much larger gap there larger and it's going up but right here we're about right we're up we're moving we're coming down into the cut we're just about there so let's bring that down to where it touches so let's say is about there we can see from that point all the way across we need to take some more out to there we're good right here and if we come over here and we look at our wheel that is where we're good to let me bring it back out where you can see both of them so what i was talking about is from right in here to right here we need to remove some of this material so let's go remove some of it and then we'll come back over here and we'll check just to see how we're doing i know it don't look like i'm removed much but i didn't put it back together and see how it works this is the process nothing happens quick it's nothing good all righty now from this mark here to that mark here i've ground some of this away in here so let's rotate this back around and we will bring you back over and we will see just how well we did oh we have a lump right there so i can see where that is i did see how we're coming up up up and we're at the top let's do that again down let me back you guys up so you guys can see both of them let me get a pointer my arms aren't low enough but from right here see how we have that little lip if you look right here you can see it's much thicker so we need to grind that off to there right there and from there all the way over to here we need to remove some more so that's what we're going to do so now that we did some more of that lift it back up put it back on try it all over again what we're doing is we're sneaking up on easy to take material away hard to put it back on so we're going to move you back up over here grab the pencil and i'm looking at that gap that gap seems to be pretty even all the way across let's take a look at it again okay we're down going down all right i think what i'm doing is i am marking the wheel from there all the way over to about here okay what i have done is i've marked on the wheel from here over to here this seems to be pretty close this seems to be pretty close but we're still a little heavy in here so i'm gonna go take some all this out and i'll be right back and i'm back with this try it again oh let's take a look right here we came off all the way over so from here to there let me take some more off back and forth we go [Applause] and we're just dialing this in a little bit at a time and we're back again see guys this is just a patience thing it's not difficult to do it's just time consuming and everybody in the world never has time anymore i would say we are close enough that we are going to give that a try running it let me get the back of the motor set up move you guys up top and we will give it a reward all right i got the motor on i shouldn't say on i should say wired uh i run it with this little 110 to 12 volt ac adapter i don't know if you can see this but it is a 2 amp don't require much to run these motors get this on amazon again i think all i do is buy on amazon which is probably true it'll come with this adapter the adapter plugs in and you can just screw your wires in i did weld the motor down made it permanent can't move and let's get it started let's see what it's going to do let's see how well we did how close we are i'm going to get you down here on the floor let you see what we're doing all right i got you on the floor i got you all set up wheel down motor here let's plug in our cam let's get it going first let's see how that's working [Music] lighting it up a little bit i would say that's not too bad [Music] i'd say that gets you back out at the wood all right all right guys there it is my version of a automatic bandsaw sharpener just a bunch of scrap metal put together it works you know this is the way i did it if you guys are doing it and you want to make improvements by all means have at it use whatever you got i've seen guys use wiper motors you know it's just one of those things that i got hit up with a lot of questions on how to build one of these and it's really hard to explain most of the questions were about the cam wheel the cam wheel is going to depend upon the blade that you have all blades have different profiles so if i take this out and i put a turbo 7 in or something like that it's not going to grind that profile exactly because the profile is different it would require a different cam you know if you're like me you got 15 20 of these blades sitting around they you know they get dull you got to go out and get a couple new blades you know i bet you all these parts here laying on the table there's less than you know 100 worth of stuff here to go by you know so the for the price of five six blades you can make one and resharpen them you know i got a couple bands that you know i've used sharpened five six times yeah you don't get too much more than that i think it's because you know the heat treat the tips of these and after you sharpen them a few times you get through that heat treatment you know they'll sharpen up but they dull really fast as far as how sharp they are they're pretty sharp i won't say they're as good as a new blade but they're pretty close all right guys if you have any questions comments you know put them in the comments below i'll try to get back with you in a timely manner uh well i guess that's it you guys have a good day

Channel: passing it along

Views: 133,589

Keywords: sawmilling, sawmill, blade sharpener, diy sawmill

Id: le_NmxlLTRk

Length: 42min 52sec (2572 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 29 2021