How to Frame Basement Walls - DIY

in this video we're going to go through interior framing of a basement wall I'm going to show you various layouts for your studing 12 inches 16 inches and 24 inches on center I'm explain to you why you would use these various spacings I'm going to show you how to anchor the floor to the wall to the ceiling and level it up so let's get started this is the section of wall we're going to be framing from this stud here to this corner stud here there's going to be a door approximately here this is going to be the bedroom of the basement development so let's get started we've got to measure the length of the wall so that we can cut our top and bottom plate to the exact length the wall is going to be I've got my butt end of the tape at the start of our wall and at the finish here I'm measuring 116 and a quarter inches so I'm going to measure out the top and bottom plate and then we can get into some laying out of the studs and doorway okay so this is going to be my top plate and this is going to be my bottom plate the bottom plate is in contact with concrete whenever you're in those situations you want to use pressure-treated wood so that you are protected from rot the top plate doesn't matter stay dry so I'm just going to begin by marking out 116 and a quarter on each of these I like to use a speed square to square cross my line across the whole piece of material so it's easy to run your skill saw along it and not such a big deal on us on a long piece like this but when you're I like to mark an X on the wayside so that you know which side you're keeping when you're using shorter pieces it's helpful to know which side you're actually use and which side is is going to be garbage okay so now that we've got our plates marked out I'm going to begin by putting on my safety gear and cutting these down to length so that I can show you the layout next okay now that you've got your wall plates cut the lengths you're going to want to lay out your study as I mentioned earlier there is three normal spacings for studying which is a twelve inch on center a sixteen inch on center and a 24 inch on center spacing in my particular situation I'm going to use a sixteen inch on center but for explanation purposes I'm going to go through the three different ways for you pay in this particular wall I am going to have a doorway approximately here for explanation purposes I'm going to go through regular spacing for you at first and then show you how to measure out where to put the door and after so our study material is inch and a half thick so that's very important because when we're making our indicator lines for placement of the studs if we want our stud tool and center of the twelve inch line or Center of the 16 inch line for center of the two foot line which we were doing we need to subtract off half the thickness of the material so that we can put an indicator line there which will create the center spacing for the studing with your tape measure clip on the end to do a twelve inch on center spacing or one foot on Center spacing you're going to find the twelve the one the twelve inch line subtract back three quarters of an inch and Mark a line then you're going to find the two foot line subtract back three quarters of an inch mark a line you're going to find the three foot line subtract back three quarters of an inch make an indicator line four foot line mark back three quarters of an inch indicator line five foot mark back three quarters of an inch indicator line now you are going to place your stud edge on this line and to create a center you want to place the stud on that side of the X so I like to put a X indicating the side of the stud that I'm going to or the side of the line that I'm going to put the studying on now that you've got that ready you take your framing square set up on the line and mimic that line down below so this piece of material is representing our studying material now that I've got the indicator line marked here and the X on that side when I space my wall apart I'm going to nail it on that side of the line the bottom identically the same and when you measure from the edge you're hitting Center marking for the three foot spacing go back here you're hitting your two foot on Center spacing so that's how to layout a wall on a 12 inch on Center spacing ok another on Center spacing that that is commonly used is a 24 inch on center spacing or a 2 foot on Center spacing which is the same in this basement I've used that over here it is used to hold insulation of that size okay so the layout for a 24 inch or 2 foot on Center spacing is very similar to the 12 inch or one foot on Center spacing you're basically just going on two foot increments so we've already got that marked so you go to foot measure back three quarters of an inch mark your line you would go 4 foot measure back three quarters of an inch mark your line six foot measure back three quarters of an inch mark your line eight foot measure back three quarters of an inch and Mark your line in twenty four inch on center spacing you do save some stunning obviously but the wall is not as strong and is more acceptable to warping just because of the less material now I'm going to show you how to do a sixteen inch on center spacing which is the spacing I'm going to use for this wall clip your tape on the end and again find the 16 measure back three quarters of an inch mark your X find the 32 measure back three quarters of an inch mark your X find your 48 measure back three quarters of an inch mark your X 64 measure back three quarters of an inch mark your X 80 measure back three quarters mark your X 96 unless you're back three quarters mark your X 112 measure back three quarters mark your X now there's no need to mark your start and your finish and I'm not too sure if you've noticed but 16 on Center spacing is the most commonly used spacing and it is indicated by most tape measures in a red or a different number so it's quite easy to pick out as you can see here with the 64 the 80 and the 96 now that I've got my on Center spacing mark for my studing I'm going to proceed with marking in a doorway to enter into the bedroom in this particular layout the door is going to be right here swinging this way what I like to do is find the edge of the wall on the inside of the wall which is here I'll put a mark there and you when you install your door you're going to want some some trim casing on the inside facing here so you need to space off to allow for that casing around the door I usually go with three to four inches you can go with any size you want if you know your trim size if it's two and a quarter inches or three inches or whatever I go with four so it's nice and safe and I don't have any issues with it so start by finding that inside corner point measure over four inches mark that line the door is going to be from this line over so I put the X on this side now here I'm going to put a 30-inch door in I've checked with my door supplier to fit a 30-inch door into the opening I need to go with a 32 inch wide opening so I find a 32 inch measure over put that line again the door width is on the inside so that X will go on the outside put this square that across mark my X now to eliminate confusion of this of the lines I like to indicate the door with different colors so when I'm putting studying in I know which spots were for my door so I've got a red felt marker I'm going to mark this in I'm going to write the door size for the rough opening so there's no confusion it's 32 inch by 80 inch tall and then this one is my other side now it's really good to put these extra colors and indicators down so that you don't get confused these studs will obviously not go in because that's where the doorway is and the height is 80 inches tall so there will be some space above the door where I will use these indicator lines so now that we've got our wall plates laid out for our stud spacing and doorway we need to look at where we're going to attach the wall at the start of the wall I've got this existing wall that I'll be able to attach into at the other side of the wall I've got this corner step that I'll be able to attach to but up in the ceiling spaces I have nothing the wall is going to float across this section here so what I'm going to do is put some blocking from this truss to this truss on a 2 foot on Center spacing so that when the wall gets stood up I've got somewhere to anchor it to okay to solve the problem for attaching the wall at the top I need to install some backing for it between the TGI joist I'm going to proceed by measuring the width between here I've got 16 and 5/8 mark it down I've got a piece pre-cut just so I can show you how it's going to fit in so just like that that will get attached through here through here on and on the opposite side and then the wall will get attached up into it this also creates drywall backing on this side of the wall and this side of the wall so that the drywall has something to be firmly attached to going to lay out from this edge down that way on a two foot on Center spacing I'm not going to get carried away with reducing off the reducing off the increments because this material is so wide out we'll just be marking 24 inch and putting a line and eyeing this piece in so seems I'm by myself working I need someone to hold the tape measure on this opposite edge here but you can replace out with the screw something to attach my tape measures new just like that clip my tape on that and I'm ready to go 24 48 six feet 8 feet and one on the corner now I've got all the blocking cut the size I'm going to show you how to install it into the joy spacing here if you're having troubles getting it to stay you can start a screw alright now it's installing the block eight blocking in with screws you can also use nails if you want or pneumatic air nailer another method of installing the blocking in the joist faces above would be a pneumatic nailer go in here with the pneumatic nail you're going to want make sure you have your eye protection on at the very least I like eyes and ears protected go up I'll put it on your indicator line line up the nailer and go now that's that's in there good and tight so if it's all it to anchor the wall - okay now that we've got our backing installed at the top and we've got our floor at the bottom we're going to measure for our stud links one way to measure for your stud links would be to measure off the floor rate to the backing subtract off the thickness of this material more precise way that I prefer to use is to lay the top and bottom plate in position measure off that top to the blocking you don't have to do any subtracting it'll just give you your your stub length right away and there we go ninety-two and five eggs 92 and five-eighths one last fall 92 and five-eighths I'm going to count out how many studs I need one two three four five six seven skipping this one skipping this one eight nine and I also need an extra one in the corner for four corner backing which will happen right in here and I'll explain that as I'm nailing this wall together right now that we've got our final stud cut stock it over here with the others I'm going to clear this space here spread these wall plates apart and begin to place my studing in the approximate positions now I'm going to get to put these studs in all right now we're talking laid out with the stud in here I've left the last two out here because I want to nail those together in a different manner before I put them in so when you're attaching one wall like this one to an existing wall you want to have corner backing for the drywall a common way to do that is to take two two by fours for your stud lengths and attach them together in this manner now that you've got those two pieces of wood attached together you're going to install it into your wall in this positioning by doing that can you stand your wall up against this other wall by making the l-shape we've got an inch-and-a-half material that sticks past here that will allow this drywall to go through and attach on this side and this drywall to come through and attach on this side creating an inside corner backing today now you've got all your studs in rough position cut to length you're ready to assemble your wall together now there's three choices for assembly I've been using the pneumatic nailer which you know is quite fast to put a wall together and if you've got a lot of framing to do you definitely want to increase your speed another method is just plain old hammer nails as well as a drill and screw them together so whichever you'd like to go with is is all fine some benefits to screwing is if you've made a mistake you can easily correct it I'll start by showing you that how my stud right on the indicator line this is where it's very helpful to have your ex there as well so you know which side of the stud is going to for a 2x4 wall I like to use two screws per per end if I was framing with two by six we'd use three two by eight I would use four so as you go up in spacing you just add a fastener per every two inches all right and that's that's a hand screwing it together again if I found that I did something wrong quite easy to hook back onto it back it out make your adjustment put it back in high another method is hammer nails have the stud on the x side of the indicator line start your nail now again with this setup if I needed to make a correction it would be quite hard I'd have to bang the wall apart get some sort of crowbar to get those out so if you're just starting to do stuff around your place probably be better to use the screws there we go that's two methods I'm going to finish it off with the pneumatic nailer which is quite a bit faster and here we go I'll shove this this way a lot of times the studs are warped and twisted as they dry has you're nailing it together you got to do your best to get them get them into position by twisting them back into straight and putting a fastener into it there you have it walls put together with the studing in got my doorway framed out there all that's left to do is put the top in for the door and then stand the wall and attach it to the system backing that I've got all the way through check the level and then we'll proceed with anchoring these walls down to the concrete floor now that you've got your studying in place here going back to the original rough opening size for the door which is 32 inches by 8 eat all those are off the bottom of your wall mark your 80 inches again putting an X to the side of this study is going to go user swear swear that across square that okay so I'm going to cut a piece of wood to go across here which will finish off my opening for the door 32 inches wide by 80 inches tall then I've also got two studs to put in above the door for drywall backing and we should be ready to stand it now I don't know the exact length for the studs that are going to be above the door I could do some math and figure it out but I much rather cut this put it in place measure the next two and cut those okay um I'm going to screw these ones because I got some worked wood it's going to help it's going to help pull it any tighter I'll put the I'll put two more in once I've stood the wall and can get at the other side okay following with our existing 16 on center layout are these indicator points here I need to put two in here to add so again measuring off the edge 15 and a quarter 31 and a quarter 15 and 1/4 X 31 and 1/4 X square those across now measure for length all right I've got 12 inches 5 8 and 12 inches 5 all right there you have it finish wall ready to go at the inside corner backing got the Bravo opening for the door got my 16 on center stud spacing okay so now that you've got your wall approximately in position on your line down on your floor this wall existing wall that I'm tying into I know is level I'm going to double check it nail these two together then I'm going to come to this far corner level this corner level this corner and then come on this side and attach down through right now we'll install a male into each one of these blocks and that will be a finished ready to go wall okay that's perfect all right crowd you got your wall certainly in place ha let's do last couple checks on it make sure you're happy with everything that's great perfect perfect looking good and looking good just going to finish off by nailing it to the blocking right and that's finished wolf ready to move on to the next step my choice for anchoring down to the wall would be wedge anchor nail which is a fluted concrete nail they recommend you use a 3/16 inch bit which is slightly smaller than this nail you would drill the hole to the depth that you need and use your hammer to pound this down in and that will anchor it down to the concrete floor so to anchor our wall down to the floor we are using a drilling method into the concrete floor if you've got electrical lines or heated concrete floors or anything like that where you're not sure and you and you might hit something that's in the concrete you could use a concrete adhesive or any construction adhesive you would apply a bead the length of the wall and then stand your wall up on top of that after 24 hours or so that wall would be glued down to the floor enough to carry on with your project to avoid drilling too deep to the wall I like to take my nail put against the bit mark myself an indicator line to stop the drilling and that way I'm not drilling too far through the floor it's just better better construction practice to do it this way now I've got my bit marked safety gear on take my concrete drill okay so that drill bit is brought down to my indicator line I'm now going to proceed with reaming out the hole a few times to bring out the extra debris and such that's inside there take your concrete now there we go balls nice and firm bat move it a bit ok now this wall is firmly attached to the concrete firmly attached to the other wall across the ceiling and to the other corner got your doorway framed in and you're sixteen inch on center spacing everything looks good you're ready to move on to your next wall

Channel: Construction Coach

Views: 184,558

Keywords: framing, basement, wall, interior, spacing, studding, how to frame basement, framing basement walls, how to frame walls, DIY basement, diy basement walls, how to frame basement walls, how to frame interior walls, diy interior walls

Id: J3PHn3OC_FY

Length: 37min 51sec (2271 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 23 2016