The Basics of Framing A Basement Wall

hey everybody today i'm going to show you the basics of how to frame a wall so stay tuned and check it out all right so today we're going to continue this wall all the way across here until it hits the exterior wall right here so you can kind of see in the blue chalk line i've lined up the laser line on the other side so we're going to follow that across here and it's going to end up being flush with the rest of this wall and then we'll also frame in a door somewhere around here so let's get after it all right so the first thing to do is cut our plates to size so we'll line some up on the floor all right so we got eight feet here another eight footer but it's gonna be it's going to have to get cut off a little bit so make sure that's tight all right we can just come down here and make a mark so that's where we're going to cut that one [Applause] all right so that fits in there nice and tight now we got our bottom plates so these are green plates so that's pressure treated you're going to want pressure treated any time that you have a piece of wood in contact with either the concrete ground or the concrete wall that just prevents against mold in the future so now that we've got our bottom plates down um i'm going to put some top plates on it and that can just be regular two by fours and we'll cut those to length all right so you can see here i got my plates lined up on the ground and the reason i didn't cut these two to the same length quite yet is because that's why the green treats are just a little bit longer than the normal two by fours for some reason so i like to cut them separately that way i can get an accurate cut and we'll mark this one out here and to be honest this one's actually going to be cut back even more a little bit later because i'm going to i'm going to uh line up on the side of this i'm not going to go all the way to here but i'll show you that later so now that we got our top and bottom plates cut to length we can start laying out the stud locations all right so just a few tools that you'll need speed square tape measure and a pencil all right so to start off we always put a stud on the end so mark there because this stud will use that to nail through to this existing wall right here so there's always going to be a stud on the end all right and take your tape measure and just stretch it out a little bit lock it down all right and our first mark is always going to be on 15 and a quarter so make a mark right there and then we're going to mark a head which means we're going to mark on the side that we're moving towards so in this case we're moving this way so we're going to put an x on the right side that just tells us that this is the side of this mark that the stud is going to be located on so we're going to have a stud here right there so that's the placement of our stud all right so first mark 15 and a quarter now take the end of your tape measure and move it down until it's right on that 15 and a quarter mark and what that does is it just makes it a little bit more dummy proof for the rest of the wall so now with the end of the tape on the 15 and a quarter mark we can start marking out the rest of the wall all right and we're going to mark every 16 so 16 mark ahead 32 mark ahead 48 mark ahead 64 mark ahead 80 mark ahead 96 ahead 112 ahead 128 ahead 144 ahead and now we're at the end so we'll put a stud right there all right so now that we've got our stud locations marked out for the most part i'm gonna start with this first uh eight foot section of wall just because i'm doing this by myself and to lift this whole 14 ish feet of wall up at one time and maneuver around some obstacles the duct work in the ceiling it's just gonna be a little bit challenging so i'm just gonna do this eight foot section first and then i'll come back and catch the remaining like six at six feet over there so we marked out our 16's on this on this top plate here now we're just going to uh transfer those marks up to the green plate so you got one on the end always and and all i'm doing like i said is transferring the marks that we just made to the green plate all right so i just transferred this mark up to the green plate just by putting the square on there and drawing a line and then mark ahead mark on the same side that you were before all right so as you can see i'm kind of on the edge of the bottom of this floor joist this green laser line is right where the face of my wall is going to be so anytime that you are in between where your wall the top of your wall lands in between the floor joists like this going parallel with it you're going to want to add some blocking up here so let me show you what that looks like so if we come over here to this wall this is what i'm talking about so these blocks every couple feet just cut them to size screw them in there and then now you have somewhere to nail your top plate up to that's just going to keep the top of the wall right in place so i'm going to cut a couple of those put them in place and then we can get the height for our wall all right so just measure in between the floor joists in a couple locations just to make sure that it's pretty consistent so we got 13 and a quarter right there yeah 13 and a quarter 13 in the corner all right so i'm going to cut probably about four maybe five rows [Music] and then i'm just going to start a couple screws in the pieces of wood just on the ground it's a little bit easier all right just like that and we can install it in the ceiling do all right so what we just did there is we added some blocking in there um just so that we have something to tie the top of the wall into and this is just flush with the bottom of the floor joist all right so we're going to be working on this section of wall right here and in order to get the height of all these studs that we need to cut i like to make it dummy proof so that way if i'm not thinking correctly that day what i have you i know that these measurements are going to be what i need to cut so we're going to take our plates and stack them on top of each other like that that way i can take my tape measure set it right on top of here measure up to the underside of the floor joist and that's the dimension i need to cut i don't have to measure from the floor to the underside of joists and then subtract three nothing like that just from the top of this plate to the underside of the floor joist maybe subtract about an eighth of an inch and that's your cut all right so we got our studs stacked now let's just take the dimension of that [Music] so from the top of the stacked studs excuse me the top of the stack plates up to the bottom of the floor jois and we're right at 90 and a half inches so 90 and a half inches is tight but uh the way i build these walls i build them flat on the floor and then i tip them up into place so i like to subtract about an eighth of an inch off of that dimension so we're 90 and a half let's go 90 and three eighths and i just like to double check that a little bit along the wall just on a few different places make sure it's pretty consistent it looks pretty consistent along this wall so i'm gonna scrub this back down and i can cut my studs so i need one two three four five six seven studs at ninety and three eighths of an inch all right so now i've got all my studs cut to length and now i can just start building the wall so take your green treat make sure that you don't like switch this end for end or anything like that just take it like that run it straight back and put it on the edge same thing just tip this up where it is and just leave it like that for right now what i'm using is the dewalt it's a battery operated one like that all right nails go on the top here uh it's a 21 degree i think they make a 30 degrees well but i just like this because then i don't have to run a compressor and a cord it's just all right here what i need so if you guys are interested in that i'm not trying to not sponsored by them or anything i just think it's a pretty decent nail gun so i'll leave a link for this down below all right what you're gonna do is take your studs [Music] this first one's just going to be flush with the end of the sill plate so once it's flush also make sure when you're nailing into here you you want the boards to be straight and plumb and square with each other but right before you nail make sure to move your hands out of the way just in case a nail would go awry and maybe it will come up through the top you don't want to get your hand that would be a bad day so let's go ahead and nail this all right so here's the first one let me get a closer shot on this next one so sometimes the pencil marks can be a little bit tougher to read on the green treated pieces of wood but here's our line right here and then we mark the head so our x is on this side of the line so our stud is going to be on that side of the line as well so we line it up there and throw a few nails in it all right there we go and just keep moving down also another thing when you are shooting these nails they the thing that keeps them together is this little plastic strip in there when you shoot a nail off these go flying everywhere so make sure you're wearing some safety glasses as well all right and so for this last one i'm not gonna nail it on quite yet it's just gonna make it if i did so it would make it a little bit more difficult to install this next section of wall because it's going to come in like this and then this is going to kind of split the difference kind of split that seam right there so i'm going to install this later and just toenail it in once the wall is stood up in place all right so this is the wall that's perpendicular to the new wall that we're going to stand up right here so in order to tie the new wall into here we're going to need some blocking here just because it didn't quite land on this stud or another stud we're just going to add some blocking here also that's necessary because uh the dry waller needs something to rest the drywall against in the corner so if you don't have anything in the corner then the drywall could just break off right there i'll show you what i mean all right so there's our marks for the edge of where the new wall is going to come in so we're going to put a stud right there and then when our new wall is set in place there's going to be a stud on the end like that and now we have something to nail into that corner also on this side on this side now the drywall can run into that corner and it's fully supported all right so back on this side you can see that the drywall along this face will be supported by this stud but there's nothing supporting this piece of drywall coming across here so we're gonna have to add one more in there and i'm probably just gonna edit like that you could do it on the edge um i don't know if there's really any advantage either way so basically we'll stack two studs like that and that will give us plenty of meat to attach everything together and in general it's always important to think at least a few steps ahead in the build process you want to keep in mind the needs of the next trades person that's going to be following the current step of work that you're on especially when framing you always want to be thinking about how the drywaller is going to install a sheet along this wall and in some instances you're just going to have to provide a couple extra studs like the stuff that i'm currently working on there we go we got our blocking installed now we can tip this new wall up and here i'm just carrying the vapor barrier down to the floor prior to installing this new wall all right so sometimes it's a little bit difficult to pick it up on camera but you can see that the green laser is right on the edge of that stud right there so that's pretty good i could probably let's see probably tap it over right about like that and now i can start to just barely see it on here so i'm gonna take my red marker and mark a line right there right there all right and let's just do that on the top and just barely see the green right there could probably come over right there so again one man working here uh just makes it a little bit easier and also now you guys can see that red marker on there so i like to work out from the corner um as you can see the rest of the green line it's not quite on that edge so i'll start in that corner and start securing it probably stick here to that other wall first and then put some pins on the floor and just work my way down this way um just adjusting where that bottom plate is along the way so it lines up nicely and then same thing uh with this top line as well you can see we're just off a little bit right there right there's the green line and we gotta go to the left just a little bit all right so that's in there attach nicely now let's attach it to the floor all right so to attach the wall to the floor there's a few different methods but the way that i'm gonna do it is i'm gonna use some of these ram set nails so this is a remington ram set gun i guess uh it's kind of an old school one could still pick this up for i think about 30 35 they make a few different types but this is what i got and then you'll have these special nails and then you'll have this lone which is basically some gunpowder but no projectile they make a few different strengths of this i've got the number four i believe yeah number four and then i'm using three inch ram set nails the way you do this take a nail load it in the end until this like rubbery plastic thing is in there all right and then you're going to take the shot right there and you're going to see if i can get a good angle you're going to stick it right there all right and then you're just going to close this up there's two lines on the end here around the edge is that line in that line and those will need to be lined up for it to shoot then you're going to come over here this is definitely going to be loud so make sure you're wearing both eye protection and ear protection before we do that let me just get the wall in place all right let's get the load it's got the nail on the bottom and the load right here close that up and you take a hammer and hit the top of this all right so you're gonna take a hammer and just hit the top of this all right here we go just like that bring the wall out until it's lined up and you don't need one of these nails on every space i usually skip a stud space and then do the next one all right all right so then moving to attach it to the underside of the joist again i'm just going to throw a couple marks up here so it's easier to read it on camera again pull the wall where it needs to be and then drive a few screws up into the blocks that we placed in there earlier if you guys have learned something so far in this video and you feel that i've heard it go ahead and hit that subscribe button along with that like button that just helps me grow my channel and it also gives me some feedback to tell me that either this was a good video or it wasn't but only do so if you think i've earned it if i haven't heard it yet go ahead and continue watching this video and maybe i'll teach you something along the way thank you all right so moving on to the other part of the wall i'm going to let this bottom plate run into this other wall right here but this top plate i'm actually going to cut short and i'm going to come off this edge right here and i'm going to draw a line right there and then i'm just going to cut that off because up above there's the the beam for the house the main beam for the house and i'm gonna run this into the side of the beam let me show you that all right so there's the bottom corner right there if we follow that up here's the main beam of the house and i'm going to run the top plate right tight along the underside of this duct work and hit the side of that i need that extra as much space as i can for the door opening so that's why i'm going to cut it short and actually it's going to be right about back there so i'm gonna cut it short and so we'll bump into the side of the beam all right so that's gonna be cut off right here and then here's our next stud spacing so let's draw a line there connect the two and i'm gonna call from this line over my door opening so then i want another i want a double stud in the corner so come back an inch and a half put another mark draw another line and then i can put another stud there so i got one stud two studs all right so here's the inside edge of the rough opening for my door i'm gonna measure i want a 36 inch door here so i'm gonna measure 38 inches so i have two more inches to play with that allows for the door frame and then a little bit of shimming so put the end of the ruler right on that edge come over here find 38 inches and make a mark all right and i'll bring you over here all right so this is the mark that we just made we'll strike a line and then this is the door so we're going to put our framing on that side we'll measure one more plate or one more stud so we'll come over another inch and a half then one more stud so we'll have two studs on this side two more studs on that side and then the rest of this like here's a mark from earlier we've already uh drawn that line up there and then this is a mark from earlier but that's within the door opening so we will leave it on the top plate but we're not going to transfer that to the bottom plate because we don't need it there all right so we've got our studs all marked out now we got to start measuring for some obstacles so if we look above we're going to want to get a measurement from the end of the top plate over to just shy of this gas line because we're gonna put a top plate in there then we're gonna drop down and go underneath the duct work right there so let's get some of those measurements so we're looking at 20 and a half inches [Music] all right and here i'm just showing where an extra stud's gonna run from the edge of that top plate all the way down to the bottom plate and right here i'm just getting the dimension for my studs around the door opening and here i took the tape measure and hooked onto a previously installed stud and measured to the end of the top plate then i can hook onto the same stud on the bottom and mark out where that extra stud will fall on the bottom plate this allows that stud to be straight up and down so and now with the wall tipped up in place i can attach these two studs on the end from the top of the top plate [Applause] and finally i can install this stud that's connecting the two separate sections of wall by toenailing it in place [Applause] [Applause] all right so over in this corner i attached it to the floor right there and then this piece didn't come into the side of the beam quite like i thought it would uh this duct work was actually sitting about an inch lower than this piece and so then it just lowered this whole thing in general so i added a couple pieces blocking right there attached right there and then to the existing walls so this corner is very secure now and then one more piece of blocking above the door frame um just screwed up from the underside and then attached it by toenail to the floor joist there so that's all good right there i hope this video gave you guys a little bit better understanding of how to frame a basement wall and at the very least maybe you learned something until next time thanks for watching

Channel: Doing Whatever

Views: 1,038,312

Keywords: the basics of framing a wall, teh basics of framing a wall, framing a wall, wall construction, wood stud framing, framing diy, diy framing, how to frame a wall, how to frame a basement wall, how to frame a basement wall parallel to floor joist, how to frame a basement wall parallel to floor joists, how to frame a basement wall on concrete, how to frame a basement wall with a door, how to frame a basement wall under a steel beam, how to frame a basement wall for drywall

Id: SPzALP2cDd4

Length: 26min 19sec (1579 seconds)

Published: Wed Jan 12 2022