How To Do An Effective Smart Repair Part 1

[Music] [Applause] whoa uh [Music] hi guys and welcome so in this video we're going to look at how to do an effective smart repair and what i mean by that is a good smart repair that will not only last but also look good now this isn't the sort of work that i normally do with something that i got asked um to do a video from you guys from the comments you've been making about what you'd like to see we've got a lot of questions about smart repairs and how to blend and how to use 2k fade out thinners and that sort of thing so we're going to do a little video on how to do a good smart repair so this panel here is just a scrap panel that we had lying around from a job that we've done and all i've done with it is we pair it up give it some primer bit of base coat lacquer it up flat and polish it so it's just like we are doing a job on a car because unfortunately during the time of you guys asking i didn't actually have any cars in that warranty doing this kind of repairing and as you know i prefer doing a full re-clear of a panel so now as you can tell our test panel has now got some damage and we can now start off this little smart repair job now we want to try and keep the repair to this section on the top of the wing and by doing this this is a good example of how you can use the panel squeeze lines to actually lose your clear blends so you can do a nice little effective repair in a small area also in the video we're going to take a little bit of a look at and do a little bit of review on the fast mover tools digital infrared paint drying lamp with stand this is something that we've had for a while and it's a bit hard to do a dedicated video on it so i thought i'd incorporate it in this smart repair video because something like an infrared lamp really can increase or decrease your time um and your labor on a job like this it can speed the process up so it takes you know a matter of a few short hours rather than a few long hours waiting things to dry so the first part of the process is we're just going to use a p120 by hand now where that impacts been on that wing we want to make sure that those paint edges are all nicely blended out now there is a dent there which will be filling shortly but what we want to make sure is that none of that paint where that implant was is flaking off so using the 120 nice and harsh to feather that area out to make sure that there's no flaking edges and nothing that's going to cause us any adhesion problems in the future or when we get the heat on it because obviously if there's that little bit there that's lifting slightly and we put heat on it then obviously the heat's going to encourage that to lift so we just want a nice perfectly little prepped area here and another thing to remember with a job like this is to try and keep your repair area as small as possible the bigger you make this repair area the harder it's going to be to do a smart repair on a panel and the larger you're going to actually have to make that smart repair on the actual panel so at this stage we've got the actual small area of the repair and feathered out and all we're going to do now is just feather out the edge where that dents go around to make sure that this panel is ready to take our fine filler now by what i mean by making sure that's filled out is making sure that when that dents got in there it's left no little tiny high spots where it might have just bent the steel a tiny little bit and it'll push the paint edge up a little bit now you can use something like a 120 on the block just to block that out just to make sure that's all nice and flat so the only thing that we're going to be putting any fine filler into then is the actual low spot in that panel and again as you can see i'm trying to keep that repair as small as i can and trying to keep it as far away from that swage line um as i can as well that is going to aid us in the future um when we get around to the primer stage and the painting stage to keep this repair as small as possible now once i've gone over that with the 120 and i want to block that out nicely with the 180 just to make sure that all them 120 scratches are out this again is going to help us in the future because with this being a smart repair we don't want to be putting three really really heavy coats of high build primer on there like we would with the normal repair we want to be putting three fine coats so the smoother this area here is when we put the primer down the better it's going to be when we actually come to put the primer down and do our prep for paint and again keeping them scratches and that's a smooth and small it's going to aid us with the repair in the long run now my choice of fine filler for this job is the other coat easy sand it's a product i use quite a lot in the shop i really like it it dries quite quickly it sounds really nice and it does exactly what it says on the pot really it does flow out really nice um for a fine filler for the price it's absolutely ideal for a job like this it means we can mix up a little bit get that nice little low area out and then we've got something that we don't need to get something like a 1 80 on and block with a really harsh paper first you could block this with the 180 but what i tend to do is go for a 120 first and then block it over with a 180 to finish and it does you know it does go on nice does dry nice still sound really nice so our main focus here is just trying to get one that sways line back on that edge of the wing and just putting a nice light skin in here and keeping it as small of an area as possible on the actual bit that we're repairing so you can see i'm putting that little bit of a build up where that squeeze line is which will make it easier when i come to sand it down and the idea is on a job like this really i only want to put one coat of filler in this job it's a really shallow repair so don't be messing about putting two three coats of filler in it we just put one and put one nice little coat of filler in there and be done now you can use something like a heat lamp for curing pretty much anything filler is something that sometimes can be a bit iffy if you get filler too hot sometimes it can actually delaminate from the surface underneath which is why for this stage i've kept the heat lamp really far away from the job now the good thing is about this timer this particular heat lamp is it has got this digital timer which means you can set your timer on the back end there press go and immediately your lamp switch is on the timer is a self timing timer so it will count down on its own and shut off on its own so if you've got another job on at the time in the shop or maybe you want to go and have a brew or whatever and go and have a chat with the customer or something like that when you come back you know that's not gone for half an hour an hour it's only gone for the ten minutes or the five minutes or whatever it is that you put it on for so as you can see we've got that repair now sanded down we've blocked it with a 120 and then over with a 180 and all i'm doing now is using a soft p1000 on this ones just to scuff around that area um just before we mask this up for primer now as i said the heat lamp that we've used on it we put that on for 10 minutes put it further away than you would use to cure paint or anything like that it was just to add that little tiny bit of heat to make sure that this fine filler was well cured through before we got around to actually sanding it out and another recommendation is i would make sure that the panel does come down to room temperature before you start sanding your fillers or your primers your lacquers or anything like that because most products while they're still warm can be that little bit soft so at this stage we're just going to do a little bit of a mask up for primer now i've shown a few little different types of back masking on here obviously on that wing edge at the bottom i just put a straight simple back mask on there on this wing edge here to the left we're just gonna put a simple flapped over back mask which means you're sticking half down using a second piece of tape just to give you that little bit of a soft edge and the third is to do a bit of a false edge on your leg which takes a bit of practice but after a bit of time it is actually quite easy to do and what that'll do is i'll give you a little soft edge piece which will replicate something along the lines of the j tape no edge blend tape now a product like that you could use that for this but i wanted to stay away from products that were too fancy for this um because i know some of you diego guys at home might want to learn a little bit from this and obviously buying in a roller tape that's quite a few quid for something like this might be something that you guys don't want to do so to actually learn to do these with a regular masking tape rather than a specialist tape sometimes can be beneficial now we've got that all masked up and you'll see that i've just popped a bit of poly sheet around the wing just to protect that from the over spray now the spray gun they're using for this is the spring i'm not going to be in for the whole job it's starter 3000b hvlp with a one mil setup now i've turned the fan down a tiny bit so we can just keep this nice and fine and we're using a 2k high build gray primer and i'll mix this four to one but i've put 20 thinners in this one reason why i put the 20 thinners in is so that it'll flow a lot better through the one mil tip and also i want three really fine coats normally i could do this four to one with 5 or ten percent thinner and put it down really heavy but what i want for this job is three nice fine coats now for a job like this any sort of mini touch-up gun would do the job anything for the cheap ones you get 15 pounds right up to the expensive ones that you can get any will do now on a job like this before you cure this primer because i've used polymatic on this the one thing i want to make sure is that i remove this poly mask the masking tape won't be a problem but the poly mask if it gets too hot does sometimes have a tendency to actually stick to the existing paintwork and then you're going to end up with massive problems and having a big rework on the rest of the wing now ideally what i should have done was paper the whole wing up but just for ease and for time i just used a bit of poly chop that little gap out so we could mask that up um and get this in primer quicker because these little smart repair jobs one thing with the smart repairs is most people do use these for time and to try and keep as much of the car original as possible so for a job like this just poly mask it and keep it that little bit quicker was the easiest route now all materials your primers your clear coats and everything like that either on the tins themselves or on the material data sheet will give you a cure time for your primer sometimes it's per coat sometimes it's per job and you know for the amount of build coats you've done um this particular primer needs a 20 minute cure time so i've set this at 25 i've set it around about 12 to 18 inches away from the panel now the reason why i've said it at 25 is it gives it that five minutes to get the panel up to temperature and then you've got your 20 minutes actual cure time and heat time on that panel and you can see as a rough guide roughly the distance is from my elbow to my fist away from the panel because obviously each time you do this you don't want to be getting a tape measure out and measuring it up so you do get a bit of an idea and a bit of a gauge for how far away you actually need to have your heat lamp when you're doing a job like this and one thing you want to be careful of is actually overheating the panel or the paint if you overheat the panel of the paint you can end up with adhesion issues you can end up with problems with solvent boil and things like that and it can overheating can actually cause problems in the future um immediately when you come to the job at a minute or down the line um so a heat lamp like this that's fully digital it's got on off switches everywhere it's got 10 minutes and minute intervals you can add on and with it being a self countdown timer it will shut off on its own when the job's finished so here we are now this is roughly at the end of this job and you can see that the heat lamp just clicked down to zero heat lamp switched itself off that job now once that's cooled down to room temperature give it a couple of minutes then you're ready then to start the job and start sanding and blocking out this repair and unlike conventionally heating the panel from the outside like you would with something like a space heater infrared actually the infrared rays travel to the surface of the panel so the actual steel on the panel reflect off the steel of the panel and then actually heat from the inside out so you know once if you've killed this for the right amount of time once this is cooled down that the whole material build up this actually on the panel is fully cured and not just the outside that say if you put the space heater near this to try and cure this or to force it secure off quicker the chances are that you're probably going to dry the top surface and not the whole thing all the way through and that is the benefit of an infrared lamp it does cure from the inside out so from the surface of steel out towards the surface of the paint that way once the surface is cured the whole thing all the way through will be fully cured now to block this repair out we're just using a p400 because we kept this job nice and smooth we spent a little bit of extra time making sure that repair was really nice so that when we came round to this stage we know that we've not got to do a lot of blocking out we're just blocking this out to make sure that one any 180 scratches are removed and also to make sure that that repair is nice and flat now i'm going to block this out halfway with a p 400 on the block and then i'm going to get a p600 on the sander just to feather over those 400 scratches just to smooth that out a little bit ready to take the paint and i hope you guys are enjoying this video and don't forget if there is anything that you want a dedicated video on let us know and we'll do our best like this video to try and make up a video to answer those little questions on a job or an aspect of the job that you're struggling on a few guys said that they were struggling on blending clearcoat when doing smart repairs and that sort of thing this is why we want to do this little smart repair video for you guys it did mean us making up a little dedicated test panel but i think overall this was the best way to actually show it we could get a lot more detail into doing a job like this on our own panel than we could do on say a car that came into the shop itself and it also means now that we've got a little test panel made up so we can do some little videos on maybe run the removal and how to remove fish eyes from clear coat and things like that which are a few of the other little aspects that we've been asked about which aren't always easy to show on sort of everyday jobs that we've got in at the shop sometimes they've done that quickly you just forget to film any little jobs like room removal or anything like that and believe me no matter what happens we all do get runs now we've sanded that off with the sander with a p600 and we're just going to use a softback sanding sponge now just on that squares line there just to make sure we don't lose any of the shape and just along that little bottom edge where there might have been a tiny little bit of buildup of primer just to make sure that everything's smooth and knocked off and nice and clean and ready for when we get into the masking on the prep stage and for getting this repair prepped so we can get it into paint and one of the biggest aspects with smart repairs obviously is one keeping that repair as small as possible and also having the knowledge of the prep that you can use um around the area to make sure that you can prep that area nicely and easily ready for paint because obviously with a smart repair you can't go using a p800 um the clear blends or anything like that because we've got to try and polish these blends in the clear coat out afterwards but we do go through all the aspects of this smart repair work in full detail across this video and across the second video which we'll be doing the full paint and flat and polishing stage as well now this section here is the section that i want to use to actually paint and blend on this panel with now i've put the panel this way so you can see a little bit more of the panel as if it was set on the car as you would be painting it at home now when we prep the mask this we want to make sure that we've got enough room for not only the base coat blend but also the clear coat blend and that is something with smart repairs that is very important because if you don't prep enough of the area then you're gonna end up not being able to blend your base coat enough having then no room to blend your clear coat and you might have one master job in the middle of painting it so you can give yourself that extra area to clear coat do your clear blending now the actual all the blending stage on this panel including where we've already sanded we're going to pee 3000 the whole panel over now we're only going to do this around the area that we want to use on the panel we're going to do it an inch or two too far and so up on this end here i'm not actually going to clear blend right up to that tape but you'll see in the masking stage on the paint stage in part two why i have gotten that extra little bit now you do want to make sure that this has now got a really good key up so because we're using something nice really fine like a 3000 you really want to make sure you go over this part really really well and make sure this paint is really nicely matted and keyed up ready to take the paint and the clear coat on top now i know some people might think that p3000 is a bit too fine for doing this with but i can assure you that i've seen this done a hundred times before and it does work it is effective and there's a lot of places that use this method for a really nice clean and effective smart repair and blend now any of the edges or anything like that on the hard to reach areas just whip that 3000 disc off give those a good scrub and also along the bottom edge of this swage line where we're going to put in the clear blend along the edge of that line i just want to make sure that's keyed up now some people do some people don't for me i want to make sure that's keyed up to make sure that the edge of our repaired area is nicely keyed so it will stick and will end up with no adhesion problems in the future and at the end of the day good prep makes for a good painted repair and a good finished item so at this stage i've got all that nicely keyed up now and i'm happy that it's all prepped up enough so i'm going to give this now a wipe down with a nice clean microfiber just to clean all that water off and any residue that's been left from where we've sanded it make sure everything's nice and clean so we can start the prep work and also spend a little bit of time and actually check this repair to make sure this repair is nice so the first stage i've just got some panel wipe in one of the collab spray bottles we're just going to give this a clean down just to make sure that any oils or any contaminants are off the panel surface itself and then the second thing i'm going to do is something i don't normally do but i thought it's quite handy to show you guys um spray guns direct sent me a bottle of the quartz surface inspection spray out which is quite handy if you're doing a little small local repairs like this you can just spray a little bit of this on use a cloth just spread it around and then you can use that with a nice shiny surface just to check your panel surface just to make sure that repair is nice and that everything's flat and that you're happy that that's at a stage where the repair is good and ready to paint now the surface inspection spray holds no silicon or anything like that that can damage the paint work but either way just to be on the safe side i'm just giving this a second panel wipe now check that repair just to make sure that any residue or anything from that surface inspection spray has come off um and then we're at a stage but i'm happy the repair is right the preps right and i'm at a stage where now i can say right it's clean it's ready and we can get some masking done and get this ready for paint so to start off with all i'm going to do is mask out around the area that we're actually going to use to paint now i'm not masking right up against that squeeze line i'm masking roughly about three quarters an inch lower than this waistline to give us some room to put on the false edge part of the tapes in a minute um that edge just gives us that little bit of room um the towards the end of the second video when we actually take the tape off when we spray the clear it gives us that little bit of room then um that's keyed up that we can spray the blending thinners over just to get make sure that that paint edge is nicely melted in from new to old now most of this can be fully back masked off in the usual way now like i said that bottom section we've just masked that off straight across about an inch well about three quarters to an inch lower than we actually want it and i'm masking straight along the inner edge of this the wing here i'm going to apply some false edge back there as well and on that front where the headlight goes we've just put a little bit of back mass there as well now at this stage we're pretty much not going to do any false edging or anything we're just going to get that area roughly masked out and as you can see we're going to paper that area up so that it's ready now we can apply all our false edges we've got this edge down here that we've got a nice big gap from that swageline we've got the edge at the back and the edge to the right now i prefer to do the false edge on my leg if you want to do this the easy way you can buy the j-tape no bloody end tape i believe that 3m now also do i know blend edge tape as well i can't say that i've tried the 3m one i have tried the jtape one something like that be absolutely ideal for this job but again if you know if you take it into account cost then if you can do the false edge on your leg by folding a quarter of the piece of the tape back on itself it'll just leave you that nice little flap that when the air hits it because that flap's not stuck to the panel the air and the paint will just blow down that edge slightly and give you that nice soft edge um and we want to apply this so it's just to the underside and just touching that squeeze line edge we don't want it over the edge because it's going to leave build up and we just want it just underneath it so when the air catches it it'll just give that nice little soft lacquered edge now you saw on here before i said that was prepping that extra section up and you're probably thinking well why is he putting that soft edge so far out because when we come to spray the fade out thinners on this job i'll be pulling that piece off and the piece off behind it and then using that section that i've taped up there which use an inch and a half tapes about say two and a half inches long just to use that little edge there just to spray the heat out thinners over and you know the area underneath that tape there is already keyed up so when you spray everything on you've got that nice edge now you can see there how loose that edge there is with the false edge on it it's the same on the back and we're just going to put a little piece on the inner edge of that wing there now if this was on the car you could just put a straight piece of back masking straight across that and i chose um to put a little bit of false edge on there just because obviously we're doing this on a panel that's on a panel stand so it makes it that little bit easier so that is about it for part one on this video guys i hope you've enjoyed the video so far i'm putting as much detail as we can which is why i have split this up into two um roughly 25 30 minute videos try and get as much info in here for you guys as i can and go into as much detail on every aspect of it as i can if you're new to the channel don't forget to hit that like button if you like the video and subscribe for more i'll get the second half of this video up later in the week and i hope you guys have enjoyed if you want a link to the heat lamp i've put a link to the heat lamp in the description on this video thanks for watching guys and i'll see you again soon [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music]

Channel: Tony's Refinishing

Views: 274,575

Keywords: smart repair, how to do a smart repair on a car, smart repair paint, how to do a smart repair, jak zrobić inteligentną naprawę, smart vehicle repair, intelligente Reparatur, réparation intelligente, comment faire une réparation intelligente, cómo hacer una reparación inteligente, inteligentna naprawa, reparación inteligente, tonys_refinishing, tonys refinishing, #passion_4_paint, #passion4paint, #pmpsupplies, #jtape, spray paint, car, painting, paint, spray painting, refinish, spray gun

Id: yS8HRp6FtZQ

Length: 26min 59sec (1619 seconds)

Published: Mon May 15 2017