How to create a classic CHANEL quilted hand bag in CLO3D - Part I

hello and welcome to bobby top in this video i will show you how to do this quilted chanel bag if you're interested in accessory design check out my accessory design book it is a textbook that is widely used throughout the world in various fashion design colleges and it follows the process of accessories from design to prototyping sketching illustration and manufacturing you can find a link to the book in the description below the easiest way to find out what the design details are what are the proportions how is actually the back constructed would be to go to the official website so i went to chanel.com and i'm gonna look for the classic bag like this one so i can see as much detail as i can want to see the actual product so i'll come up here to fashion i will go to handbags and then i'll look for classic bags i don't want any of these new iterations of the bag i just want to go straight for the classic bag with a flap so let's see if i can here classic handbags see more and this is the iconic chain bag i don't care about the color right now i just want to see what the bag looks like i want to see what the construction is and here i have a great three-quarter view so here we have classic handbag we have the material that is made out of and what's more importantly is we have the dimensions so now i know that the height of the bag is 6 the width is 9.9 and 2.5 so i'm gonna click on that and see a close-up view so now we know that we have a front panel and we have a flap let's see if there is a three-quarter view or a back view so here we have the back view i can see that this is one panel continues from the back going over and towards the front i can see the shape of this pocket in the back i can see how beautifully the quilting is matching from the panel from the back panel to the pocket and i can see the side here so the three-quarter view really gives us a beautiful view of the construction we can see how the back panel comes over and goes towards the front we can see that there is actually a front pocket here and we can see that the side panel actually continues underneath so goes from side to bottom and comes on the other side so now we know that the front panel is a separate pattern piece and it has a continuous pocket here i can see how the handle comes out and how it works how it goes through the back and the front and that's what gives it that flexibility of making it either double or an elongated cross body chain handle and i can see the little tab here on the front the extension where the closure is and i can see if there is any kind of top stitching which there is nothing on the edges we just have the quilting stitching and i can also see how beautifully this is matched here on the front view i can count how many of these shapes are here and that will help me create the exact scale of the quilting so here if i start with this one i have one two three four so that will help me distribute the exact proportions of the quilting when i start doing that so let's start with the pattern pieces for the bag remember that the height was 6 inches and the width was 9.9 so let's call it 10. i'm going to come to my pattern piece tool and i'm going to select rectangle shortcut s i'm going to left click once and i'll get this menu here where i can actually input the width and the height so for width i'll just put 10 and for height i will input 6 inches i'm going to click ok and we have our front pattern piece now with this pattern piece we saw that the corners were a little bit rounded so we can come to our smooth curve tool you can grab the corners as you start dragging you can right click and just give it equal number here so let's say just 0.2 for both of them and you can link this so we'll do the same exact thing so 0.2 and click ok and you can take a look and see if you're happy with that you can make it curvier than that and i'm gonna do the same thing for the other side right click and make sure that they're linked and select point two for both of them now we can work just in the 2d window we don't need the 3d window so i'm just going to come down here to the right click on 2d and i also want to start organizing my patterns immediately so i'm going to come to pattern annotation select the tool and type front body this is a really good practice if you have multiple pattern pieces this will be really good let's make the back and the flap so come back to s again left click this time the width is exactly the same for the height i'm going to include six inches which is the same height as the front but i also need this piece to come over towards the front and become the flap so i'm also going to add 2.5 inches for the width of the bag and we also saw that the flap comes over but it does not reach the bottom so let's say this is another four inches and see how it's a little curved towards the middle so i'm gonna give it about four inches and then i can adjust once i finish the pattern pieces and see what it looks like for height i'm going to include six plus four and a half plus 2.5 so let's say 13 inches so for the back piece we'll continue with the shortcut s rectangle tool left click once the width is exactly the same gonna input 10 inches here for the height this time we have the six inches which is the same exact height as the front then i need to add another 2.5 inches so that will become 8.5 that will give me the width of the bag and i also want to add the flap length so that will be another let's say four four and a half inches and we can take a look and see what it looks like on the picture it looks like it comes down below the middle so maybe about two-thirds so let's call it four inches and then we can always adjust later that's going to be another four inches so that will become about 12 and a half to 13 inches click okay and now we have our back pattern piece i'm gonna line that right next to this one and i'm also going to come to the pattern annotation i'm gonna call this one back next we'll work on our bottom pattern piece and for that piece we will have the width at 2.5 which is what we saw on the website and for the height we will have 6 inches here 10 inches here and 6 inches here so that will be 22 inches we can just input that and that's our height we can also rotate that or we could have created a pattern piece that is 22 inches wide and two and a half inches high again i'm going to come to pattern notation i'm going to call this bottom it technically is by bottom side but bottom is descriptive enough for me if you're not happy with your annotation you can always come to the annotation edit tool and you can grab the annotation itself and i can rotate that and reposition it where i'd like it to be and this pattern piece is ready next i need to also curve the corner pieces here so it matches the front piece left click right click as you start moving make sure that this is linked input the same exact value as you did before and the curves are now ready we can start actually sewing these pattern pieces and simulating them and let's see if we can pull a 3d avatar that can help us with this so select avatar come to 3d shape and take a look at the shapes that you have this might be really good i'm going to select this rectangle right click on it add to workspace and take a look in the 3d window make sure that you're happy with that and we can also adjust the size click on this little gizmo tool and you will get these pulleys and they will help you create the size that you need i'm gonna adjust it to be more like the size of our front piece and i can also bring my pattern piece to be a lot closer so i can see better how to adjust this [Music] so that seems about right let's see if we can utilize the show arrangement points this might not be as useful for our purposes let me just see if it's going to work for this piece so this is as good as this gets everything else is fine and we can also sew the pieces and see how that will work for us next we can create the pockets and then sew the pattern pieces together so let's go to the 2d window and for this one i will create front pocket and a back pocket and you can always go back and take a look at the picture make sure that you know what it looks like so we have this front pocket here that comes out almost to the top maybe about an inch away so knowing that this is six inches and ten inches wide so let's make this five by ten so i'll create a new pattern piece you can come to rectangle s left click and we'll do 10 inches by 5 inches so that's going to be our pocket piece another way of doing this is i'm going to delete this real quick another way of doing this is just select this one and copy it and paste it because that gives us already the curve points here the only thing that we need to do now is i'm gonna come here and select and start moving down and i'm gonna right click and i'm gonna determine that i just wanna move until it gets to five inches high so i'm just gonna on the height i'm gonna select five inches click okay and then just so i don't forget what this piece is i'm gonna name this it says front body because we made a copy so i'm gonna delete that and i'm gonna type front pocket so we'll put this right here next we'll do the back pocket let's take a look and see what that looks like this pocket is not only smaller but it's really curved and this line is curved and the side we have really large curves and i can also see that my curves here on the side at the bottom they're much curvier so i can increase that a bit so let's go back to clone this time i will actually create an internal rectangle i think they'll make it easier for me once i shape this this will also be our stitch line so i'm going to left click inside and i'm going to make this about four inches wide and the height i'm going to give it about 2.5 i want to make sure that this is let's take a look at the picture again and see how high it is so i'd say it's about an inch away from the bottom and it is a bit wider than what this is so i'm gonna bring it down visually to where i think should be well positioned and i'm gonna just make it a little bit wider and again take a look and make sure that i'm happy with the location and what it looks like i want to position it perfectly in the middle so i can start moving it and just take a look at my location or i can right click on it and i can just click center so that should center it right in the middle you can also work on that let's see five and five so that should be right in the middle we're good with this now the next thing i want to do is i want to curve my corners so i'm gonna come to smooth curve tool select that grab it start moving right click and give it the desired angle so let's try 0.8 and again you can keep looking at the picture make sure that you're happy with what you have i'll do the same here make sure that this is linked so when you enter 0.8 it puts the same value in both and the next thing that i need to do is just curve my line up here so i'm going to select one of the curve tools and grab this line and just curve it and just visually decide what would look as much as possible to this pocket once you're happy with your pocket we can grab this whole pattern piece right click on it and clone as pattern and make sure that you have the pattern piece in your hand and just position it to the side and this way we not only have the pattern piece itself but we also have the stitch line where we can attach this pocket piece again i'm going to annotate this pattern and just call it back pocket and i'm ready to sew so i'm going to come to free sewing tool shortcut m and i'm going to sew first my pocket sew it to the internal line and next i can also stitch this pocket to the front uh body so this one it would be a good idea if i have a little notch here or at least align them so i have a better location so i'm gonna come to my notches and i'm gonna just add a notch i'm gonna right click and i want to make sure that i'm working with this segment first so i know that that needs to be an inch down so i'm going to put an inch click ok so that at least gives me a starting point to sew the pocket so i'm ready to sew i'm gonna go around the pocket first and then i'll start with my notch and as soon as i click that it gives me the next point where i need to finish and now let's attach the main pieces together but let me open the 3d window to make sure that this is working out well i'm not messing up any of the points a couple of things that i want to do i'm just going to remove the arrangement points so a couple of things i want to do is i want to superimpose the front pocket on over and then i want to superimpose the back pocket so that they don't fly all over the place and superimpose over make sure that they position well just gonna flip this piece and also i want to make sure that this pocket now is positioned correctly so now let's stitch the bottom piece to the front and back so another thing that i want to double check is i want to make sure that this is oriented correctly so i'm going to click here and see where that location is so this needs to go on the front so this piece will need to get stitched to this piece okay so this to this so let's get the m tool and go from here to here and then from here to here so this piece will get stitched to this piece also it wouldn't be a bad idea if i have a notch here so i know where to start from so i'll do the same thing i'll add myself a notch so i want to be six inches from here but i know that this was 12 and a half so i'm just gonna right click here and for the blue line i will add 6.5 and we can add a notch there or i can just leave the point on that side and next i will sew the pieces so this here will get stitched to this here if you're not sure you can always come here and just kind of roll your mouse over the seam line to see which direction where you need to go so from here to here we should be good to go before i simulate i want to bring this bottom piece a little bit closer and then i also may want to just strengthen all of these pattern pieces so right click and strengthen and let's click simulate and see what happens so pretty good i will just bring my avatar all the way down okay now i can also grab my flap and just put it over so we have the beginning of this bag and again it's strengthened so it's staying up a little awkwardly too far away but we'll change the fabric a little bit later i just need the general shape for now next for my pattern pieces i'm going to create the curve on the front and add the tab let's take a look at the picture so we see how this line here on the flap comes up a little bit maybe about a quarter of an inch half an inch and then we have this tab where the chanel logo lock is attached so let's go back to the pattern pieces we're going to go to the back piece is that's the piece that comes over and hangs as a flap on the front just gonna grab the curve tool and i'm gonna just drop it down a little bit about quarter of an inch half an inch or so let's take a look and see what that looks like i'm gonna hit simulate for a second and until we add actually leather this is not gonna look as good so now i need to create the tab here i could create a separate pattern piece find out the dimension that you like let's say i want two inches wide by two inches high i'm gonna make that a bit smaller so let me just position it where i would like it to be so i'm gonna start moving this down i'm gonna right click and make the height 1.5 but let's take a look at the picture again so maybe a little bit smaller so i'm going to make this 1.75 now i do want to find where's the middle of my piece in the middle of this piece okay now i'm going to align them and now i'd like to just add a couple of points here and merge my pieces i'm just going to place a point right there obviously you can measure better and you know the measurement so i can click the edit pattern tool click on this line and now i can see what's the length here so now i can come here and just right click and make sure that this is 8.75 okay so that's my point and now i can merge these two or to make it even easier we can delete this middle point so left click on one line left click on the other right click and merge okay so now we have our pattern piece i just want a curve because if you take a look at the picture this is really curved so i'm going to come to curve smooth curve left click start dragging right click and make sure these are linked and let's see about 0.75 for example that looks pretty good and i'll do the same for the other side and that would be 0.75 on that side too and you see these really sharp corners here because we're at 20 particle distance obviously if i make that closer to 10 or even 5 this will be a much smoother curve now we can judge if this is good enough either again by taking a look at the picture it looks shorter so i'm just gonna grab it all of these lines and i'm just gonna uh just with my arrow on the keyboard i'm gonna bring them down a bit and that looks more like it again i can bring it back up elongate it after i create my logo lock now this needs to be placed closer let me just click simulate okay that's our front flap and take a look at this piece what it looks like and let's take a look at the bag again not bad not bad at all next let's assign leather to the material so we'll come to library and we'll look for some kind of leather we have the leather lamb skin here that's a nice soft leather we can try that and we can try this uh full grain leather but this one is really stiff so let's stick with the leather lamp skin left double click and that's going to bring it in our object browser let's select all of our pattern pieces and assign the letter so i can close the library i'm also going to go to just monochrome surface and obviously i'll need some kind of color let's take a look at the colors that they offer so this is kind of a very soft gold we have pure white and we have this blue i actually like this blue let's try this color one of my favorite just a nice deep blue color so click on the material in the object browser make sure your property editor is open and then come to color and this actually looks pretty close to what this is so here let's go to textured surface and that looks more like it and i'm gonna click simulate and now we are closer to the leather that we're working with you can tell that it's a little stiffer so let's move on to the quilting so for the quilting i'm gonna come to the 2d window and just work fully in the 2d window and let's check with our actual image and see what the quilting looks like how many lines we have we can see that this is a crisscross pattern and let's count the lines here we have 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 lines so 10 this way and 10 that way so we want to have the same proportion so let's go back to chloe what we'll do is we'll use offset as internal lines but i don't want to create them one by one i'm just going to left click on both of the external pattern outline that i'm going to right click and choose distribute internal line between segment and i'm going to choose 10 lines and i want to make sure that these are straight lines in the there i will actually do perpendicular because here it's trying to cover this little area so if i do perpendicular it's going to space them out perfectly this way the distance is 1.118 i do want to remember that i might use it a little bit later so i'm going to click ok and once this is synchronized i'm going to select all of them and start rotating as i rotate i'm going to right click and do a 45 degree angle and then i also want to position them just like they are on the picture so i'm gonna come to the edge just so let's double check so see how here on the edge we're probably about an inch or so but you know we're off of the edge when not really close to the edge so i want to have that same effect so that looks really good to me and i also need to add a couple of more lines here but before i do that i want to actually while i have selected the lines i'm going to right click and then extend trim to pattern outline that's going to bring them all inside except up here so i can just come grab this make sure that you're staying on the same line and just bring it to this edge or you could add a point and just cut off the line but i want to just i think i can do this really easy see how i am not disturbing the line i am perfectly staying within the initial line and i'm just going to add a few more here so i'm going to just select a few more of these put about four or five let's try five i can always delete one and i can copy and paste i'm gonna actually overlap the lines here i can always delete one just enough here and i'll come here and i'll delete one of these i don't need two of them because this just gives me the opportunity to space them perfectly and i will select all of the new lines here and right click and extend trim to pattern outline so that will align all of these so this looks pretty perfect i want to have now the opposite i want to select all of the internal lines now and mirror paste the opposite right click and copy and right click and mirror paste so i have all of the lines now in exactly the opposite direction i just want to make sure that they fit perfectly and then i'm going to clip and paste them exactly where they are so that looks pretty good left click and if you want to be sure you can also right click while they're all selected and just make sure to extend trim to pattern outline in case something wasn't perfectly on the outline so now i have the quilting on my back piece and the front flap the only line that i need to fix here is this one i want to bring this point down to my line here and then i have to create the quilting on the back and the pockets front so i need to just create the quilting on the front on the front body the front pocket and the back pocket [Music] [Music] next i'm going to select all of the pattern pieces and unlock them so i can apply the pressure and make sure that i have all of them selected again and right click and select layer clone under and position the under layer perfectly underneath i like things to be organized and now we can make sure that we apply different pressure on the top and bottom layers so for the bottom layer we're going to come to property editor and we're going to look for pressure and in the pressure value for the under layer we're going to put a minus value so let's do minus 30 and for the upper layer we'll do plus 30. so make sure i'm going to select the top layer all of the pattern pieces and i'm going to come back down to pressure and apply plus 30. so whatever value i did for the bottom layer i'll do the same but with a positive value and then i'll simulate and see how the whole bag puffed up a bit i'd like to have a little more definition within the little uh squares but we can do some additional things for that i can also experiment with different values of pressure you can do 40 50 20 and see what you like best but this is what we got for 30. so let's try another one so i'll select the top layer again i'm going to come down to property editor i'm going to change the pressure value to 20 just to see if that'll make any difference you can see that it just shrunk a little bit it collapsed a little bit 50 the upper layer is really pushing back it almost flew away that's because the under layer is still at 30. so you can absolutely experiment so let's bring the bottom layer under layer down to -50 that should balance it out and there's a little more definition within the squares but still not quite what i would like it to be and this is it as good as it gets with this particular value for now next let's go to property editor open the object browser select our material leather lambskin and then i'm going to select all of the pattern pieces and i'm gonna scroll down until i find additional thickness collision and i'm gonna bring down the collision down to one and additional thickness rendering also to one you could leave this at zero too i'm going to simulate and i can see that there's a bit more thickness in the material but not quite the desired effect of the puffiness that i wanted so i'm going to select all of the pattern pieces again and i'm going to come down to the pucker tool and that will give us the desired effect we'll get that pucker around the internal lines wherever we selected this is actually a normal map so it gives that effect through the the mapping through the normal map so all we need to do now is select the segment pucker or the free puckering tool and then select the lines where we want to apply the puckering [Music] so next i want to add those grommets here on the bag and i can see that they are smaller than one square and there are about one square distance right on top maybe even slightly towards the back in order to do that i will come to my object browser i will select the button or you can just select the button tool here but make sure you have the buttons here i will click on the default button and make sure that under the shape you select a grommet and at the bottom here you have a few different kinds so we can try all of them see which one works best i'll go for number four you could also come to the library and come to hardware and trims and go to button and buttonholes go to button and select your what they're calling here eyelet or grommet from here it is the same exact thing either way would work perfectly fine so i have the desired shape here i can also come and change the color to maybe something that's more purple or lavender because here it has this iridescent feel and look that is more of a pink purple look and you can also do a normal map to create this particular look so i'm gonna for now i'm gonna select this purple color click okay and what i'm going to do is i can actually come to my 3d window at least place one of them and make sure that i like the position i'm looking to be about one rectangle away slightly towards the back i'm going to place this one here and one of them is here and i can place the next one here in the 3d window i could also come to the 2d window and make sure that the next one is aligned or i can place it in the 3d window and just edit it here so here i have a distance about 1.185 so i'm going to try and align this in the same exact line and if you're not sure of the position you can also just align with this one and right click and choose the distance to the right to be 1.185 you can see what they look like here and you can also bring your pointer here make sure that they're aligned and i have my two grommets you can always come here to property editor make sure object browser is selected click on this one and change the color if you need to so let's go with something slightly darker see what that looks like and it looks a little matte so let's make sure that our material is actually metal so we will go down to the type of fabric we don't want matte fabric we do want to have metal so we'll click on metal and we can see now that it looks like shiny metal and you can also play around with the roughness intensity let's bring that down a little bit and see what we like better so this looks just about right and i am happy with my grommet keep in mind that for the puckering you do have choices here so when you come to material you can select various kinds of puckering so you can select leather and you can see how it changes so here's the nylon here's the polyester here's the cotton so you can tell how the puckering is different i actually think that the denim looks best here it's not so vivid or so sharp as the leather and the leather seems to be only kind of going on one side so next let's add the top stitching and let's take a look at our bag it has about one two three four five six seven eight about ten stitches per rectangle so we can aim to do that let's say that this is about looks like it's about one inch maybe a little bit smaller so we'll aim to do about 10 of those so let's go to top stitching i'll choose the segment top stitching the default top stitch comes here i'm going to click on that here i want to do shiny because the this is probably there's a lot of lighting coming onto the back but still the stitches have some shine here so i'd rather choose shiny so the back here has a lot of shine a lot of light onto it but i do like the idea of having some shine on the stitch so i can pick up from the light on the color i'm going to choose slightly darker so this is the blue that we chose before so i'm going to go darker i want to make sure that we can clearly see the top stitching in reality here it is quite matching the same leather color and you can definitely do that too and see what that looks like and the next thing i'm going to choose is stitches per inch so i'm going to go with about 10 and see what that looks like they're definitely quite a few stitches here so next we can go to our bag and apply the top stitching so let's start with the front and see what that looks like so the front pocket is on the very front so i'm just gonna left click on the internal line and just apply the top stitching and you can already see it appear in the 3d window and see what this looks like another thing that i can do here is i want to make sure that we can clearly see the stitching the thread thickness here is 40 i'm gonna go up to 80 and see what that looks like it got a little better let's see from a distance i think we can go even higher so let's go to 100 and see if that would be better so here we have about one two three four five six seven eight nine ten eleven stitches we could probably go down to nine just to be a little more prominent and that looks about right so we can continue with applying the top stitching to apply top stitch to the rest of the internal lines i'm going to right click on the background and lock all pattern outlines and then we can select the internal lines and apply top stitch to all of them i'm going to select all of these lines and apply the top stitch and let's do the same for the back and flap and you can see it appear here so i have the segment top stitch tool in my hand and i'm simply selecting all of the internal lines and that applies top stitch to all of them so let's just take a look at the back and also on the front on the front pattern piece i might have to just click since i already have apply it here so i'll just have to click on the rest of the lines and this is what our bag looks like with the top stitch all over you could also remove the grid if you want click here just get rid of the grid so you can see it better you could also add a bit of a shadow so that will help our back just look like it's standing on the surface and it looks like i also have puckering around the edges here i don't want to have that so i'm just going to unlock all pattern outlines i'm going to come to puckering editing tool and i'm going to get rid of this pucker so i'm going to delete the puckering and that looks much smoother and better i'm pretty happy with my bag right now i just want to bring down the particle distance make this bag look a bit better so i will come here to high high-res properties and i will bring the particle distance down to 10 maybe even 5 and i will click ok here let's see what it looks like once it synchronizes you can see that the details got quite a bit more delicate and better so this is what i have right now and all i have left now is to add the hardware and the chain and i will do that in part two of this video

Channel: BobbinTalk - CLO3D

Views: 3,782

Keywords: clo3d, clo3dfashion, clo3dtutorial, howto, virtual, virtualfashion, avatar, clo, 3D, fashion, pressure, tote bag clo3d, bag clo3d, bag design, handbag clo3d, handbag design clo3d, tote clo3d, turntable, clo3D turntable, turntable clo3D, turntable clo, step by step, tutorial, clo tutorial, clo3d tutorial, CHANEL bag, make CHANEL bag in CLO, make CHANEL bag in CLO3D, How to make a CHANEL bag, clo3d bag

Id: AiV2l561_Kc

Length: 37min 27sec (2247 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 24 2021