How to build a RELIABLE 1,400 Horsepower LS Engine!

[Music] here we are the mother like you garage the middle of the covet epidemic and we were practicing safe social distancing while we're filming and we're all nast up weather in 95 masks so in our last video we built a 650 horsepower naturally aspirated ls3 this was a pretty simple engine really built for a liability not peak horsepower and now we wanted to do something more exotic this is a 1,400 horsepower LS based engine for Formula Drift competition if you didn't know Formula Drift is one of the most brutal abusive engine environments than all of motorsports probably the only thing I can think of that's more abusive this offshore powerboat racing and drifting you're running for about a minute a run you're running all day you're going from maximum RPM maximum load your clutch kicking violent RPM fluctuations it's really hard than the entire motor especially the valve train and on our last video some of the comments were things like oh I get 1,600 horsepower from my stock bottom in ls3 well sure you can do that but being a dyno Queen going for a blast down the street or an occasional blast down the quarter-mile is an actual Motorsports and it isn't for sure drifting our engine makes 1,400 horsepower and it can do it for an entire season the Formula Drift with no real maintenance and we can do it all on one engine so that's pretty I guess it's pretty unusual most other teams probably go through at least one engine this season some teams go through almost one engine every event so we're pretty proud of what this little LS does here now let's go look inside and we can show you what we did to help make this thing live under such bad conditions so the heart of any really high horsepower engine is the block and in the case of orange and we didn't feel like the stock block was gonna cut it because we're drifting you need a lot of power a lot of torque and a wide power band and the best way to do that is displacement so we build our engine to be 454 cubic inches and then to enable that we use a RHS block now sorry just block deviates from your regular Chevy LS and a few ways one of the ways is it has a really thick cylinder liner we start off running the block at the four one two five and you can be bored this thing all the way out to four one six five so we could get a whole bunch of rebuild cycles out of it then we can make the intern really big if we want it to now that's the first thing the other thing is this block has a really thick deck compared to the stock Chevy blocks so when you're running a lot of boost it helps seal the head gasket there's less flex less opportunity to you know cause any kind of distortion with the studs and helps the seal a lot the other interesting thing is your standard LS has four bolts four cylinder to seal the head the RHS block has six we have two two here and four here so you have way better clamp load down on each cylinder to help seal that's that big that's a pretty big deal and really helps they have gasket live another really important thing is the RHS block has a taller deck now the deck is about an inch higher than stock what that allows us to do is to you know we can run our stroker crank we run the four in the quarter inch stroker crank and we can run a really long connecting rod we run a six 350 connecting rod so our stroke to rod length ratio stays reasonable our piston speed stays reasonable and the angularity inside the engine stays reasonable see don't have the piston digging into the cylinder walls it helps where it helps volumetric efficiency a little bit and your pistons dwelling at TDC longer so you have more time for the combustion event to impinge on the piston so it helps your thermal efficiency a little you know it really helps with the mechanical stress on the engine and if you even hear our engine our engine sounds a lot smoother and less thrash here than the other big displacement LS is out there kind of sounds smooth kind of like a more like an Indy car then like maybe a NASCAR for instance wow that is the really long rod the rhs block has plenty of room inside and the cylinder liners are not this is so you can run up to like a four 600 stroke like your stock LS blocks once you get past four one two five it starts to get their feet and you have two clearance the block but rhs block is actually wider in here quite a bit so you can run that big stroke without any interference the other thing is the RHS block it moves the camshaft up higher there's plenty of clearance for the stroke you have to run a timing set with two extra links it's two links worth of height and then you can run shorter push rods shorter stiffer and less flex than their with the higher cam there's more there's more windowing around each of you know main batches here this gives you a more windage volume area and so when the cylinders are the Pistons are pumping up and down then the air is blowing around there's a lot of places where the air can exchange and you reduce pumping losses that way so the after like I guess the ls3 they opened up the windows on the factory blocks for that reason and the RHS motor opens up the area even more so you have a lot better internal air exchange and less pumping loss another cool thing is the RHS block has bigger registers on the block where the main caps have more purchase to the to the block this gives you more support when you're running big power everything is moving around and you know we actually see when we're pushing more than like in the 1,400 horsepower range that the block actually starts to fret here which means the whole block is flexing and that's kind of means we're approaching the limit of the block and they're you know are abusive conditions but the RHS block has a lot more register room than stock and it's a lot stronger in this area another important feature you can't really see but the RHS block has what you call a priority main oil system what that means is when the oil comes off the pump it goes directly to the main bearings and the top-end is lubricated from oil that bleeds off the means so you're getting full complete pressure right to the mains first like on the stock LS it goes into a galley and the galley splits and feeds the main and the top-end so the main doesn't get the priority of the oil system well the RHS what priority means the mains are given all your oil so you know for a performance engine that's better if you're running a dry sump and and the roller cam mechanical roller cam you need the restrict oil to the top end it's a lot easier to do it with priority means to restrict the oil passages it's it's a lot better and most serious performance engines are lubricated that way there's also spaces to put oil squirters for your pistons if you wanted to we're not going to run squirts because we run the F at all on this engine and piston temperature isn't so much of an issue but we really like the sorry chest block and it's a good solid foundation to make a lot of power for a long time another reason why we use the RHS block is it's made out of aluminum now they have other heavy-duty blocks with tall decks like the Chevy LSX but the RHS block is about 80 pounds lighter in the drift car you don't want all that weight on the nose because handling is really important and we're always trying to get close to 50/50 weight distributions so 80 pounds is a good chunk of weight not to have on your nose now let's go look at the rest of them engine now we get to look at the insides of the engine probably the most important part the for reliability of your engine is the crankshaft and we didn't spare any expenses here we use the Calais Ultra crankshaft now this crankshaft is totally badass it's machined out of a billet of Timken of 40 40 330 alloy now this is a special alloy that's high nickel high chromium really tough and it's a vacuum degassed well when they're making it what that means is they get the medal put in the vacuum and all the impurities kind of get sucked out of the metal so there's like less porosity and less less inclusions inside the metal to wear a stress crack could start now this is pretty trick metal and as far as my my knowledge the Calais is some learned the only ones that makes it in there when they're cranks that you can just buy off the shelf so you start with a really good metal it's it's machined you can see things like it has very generous fill it's here that's to reduce any kind of stress riser and that makes a really big difference in the cranks durability all the holes are chamfered and profiled right from the from the factory you don't need to do it it's a hollow crank pin so the reciprocating weights kept low all the counter counter weights are profiled there they're knife-edged and the blunt trailing edge so there's less windage the crank spins around has to spin through the oil clouds so you want your counterweights to be aerodynamic these are all profiled the whole crank is super finished so it's nice and smooth less windage losses less surface defects to wear like a crack or something could start this that helps fatigue life to the super finishing goes on to the journals which helps your bearing life it's a really neat crank the crank is also in fairly balanced you could see some of the weights here and this is like a heavy metal they call it the Mallory metal it's kind of like a tungsten alloy so they when they balance it they figure out this weight pressed into the counterweights that way the crank is really well balanced internally so you don't have any additional stresses in the crank it's a really expensive way the balance but you know that's the best way we get the crank and we give it a fine balance to match our reciprocating assembly exactly and then we have the whole thing WPC treated now we talked about WPC a lot but it's a Japanese super finishing process that's kind of like shot peening on a traffic scale it leaves a really fine compressed surface or that's hard for a crack the starting really helps your fatigue strength and it's ultra low friction the RA on the surface is lower than traditional superfinishing so it's a super smooth super slick really hard then surface finish that it's almost impossible for our craft to propagate in so you reduce friction you increase your life and you increase your fatigue strength and we WPC anything that can rub in an engine Mike on the Block we WPC of the cylinder walls we WPC the crank piston rods camshaft we WPC the bow springs because that helps their fatigue strength anything that rotates rubs on a really serious engine we WPC and we found that this actually helps life maybe about as much as 50 percent sometimes hundred percent depending on what the component is our valve springs don't fatigue nearly as fast when you use a radical roller cam usually you have to change your valve springs out like every few events but with WPC they last the whole season our bearings last the whole season we don't even need to craft the engine which is really unusual so WPC is a great thing for life it's supposed to give you more power due to reducing friction but that's kind of hard to subjectively measure and but we can tell things like when you assemble the engine you're spinning it around the torque to spin the engine is really low with WPC so you can feel the friction reduction right there so that's our crank this is a really nice piece one of the best pranks I think you can get on the market like off-the-shelf now the crank spins and king bearings really light king Barry in a performance motor where everything's clean the bearings are like a lot harder than your typical try metal bearings so their load bearing capacity is higher they have this P max black coating on there that's a nanoparticle you know it's not your typical low friction coating it's an honorable nanoparticle a lot of solids it actually helps the load capacity and it's not just for runnin and not just for friction reduction even though it does that so these bearings are normally good for an entire season and when we pulled the motor apart they look brand-new so next to the crank the next important thing is the connecting rod now we use a Calais ultra I beam rod which is their top-of-the-line strongest rod now like the crank the rod is made out of tin Conforti 330 vacuum degassed high nickel high chromium alloy super tough proprietary alloy vacuum degassed eliminate internal internal voids and things that can cause fatigue crack starting sites it as a RP custom age 625 bolts which are you know like a step up from the typical ARP 2,000 really good bolts the whole rod every every corner and every radius is rounded so you don't have any place where our stress riser could start I mean this is a really nice rod the rod is shot peened after it's finished that helps improve the fatigue strength now it's a it's a really nice piece so that's actually like beautiful to look at you know on top of everything that Callos does is we actually WPC the rod and we cryo treated also so the rods cryogenically treated the rod bolts are removed and there WPC treated and cryo treated rod bolts are critical so we don't want to have any kind of place where a fatigue crack could start the rod bolts are the highest stress part of the rod and if one of those fail usually takes out your whole engine so we do a lot of TLC on the bolts we also crowd treat the crank and actually we crowd treat all the internal components of the engine crowd treating is the extension of the heat treating process where you convert like your austenite in your Farish metals into martensite which is a harder face centered cubic version of the metal now that's a lot more fatigue resistant a lot more your your actual mechanical properties and proved like your tensile strength it stress leaves the part so it helps wear improve strength and helps fatigue strength now cryo is a pretty interesting thing and you need to know the liturgy the understand it but it believe us we think it's worthwhile so four Pistons we rode a je FS our piston now this is a strut type forging it's a cut-down slipper skirt but with the struts like right here you have a really good support of the pin boss even though it's really in board the inboard boss gives good support of the piston pin so you could have a short pin that's lightweight and you could stuff good support and good strength the FS are has asymmetrical skirt you could see that there the thrust side is wider than the non-threat side that's because the thrust side this is the side that gets dug into the cylinder wall and takes a lot of load so it's it's wider so you have more area the non thrust side is narrower so the piston could be lighter there and have like less skirt friction there's some cool features like we're running low tension piston rings that are really thin there's a pressure equalization groove in between the number 1 number 2 ring that kind of helps the number 2 ring seal better and there's this little step here it's hard to see in the video that helps pressure get behind the number 1 ring and acts kind of like gas porting helps the seal on the low tension ring since we're running a long rod the pin is way up almost into the oil ring as you could see it's in the 11 to 1 compression ratio we're running that high of a compression on a turbo motor because we're running ethanol as fuel so fuel octane there's no problem and the higher compression helps off boost response and helps pull the turbo quicker the piston and the pin is WPC treated we're running kind of a thick wall pin that's important with a turbo motor and any motor with high cylinder pressures because if your pin starts to flex you spin the bushing out of the small end of the rod and that usually results in things that aren't too cool by our experience the pin is really high so you can see how it's almost up to the oil ring because of our stroke 2 rod length ratio and everything is WPC treated that helps where in the pin box helps the pin wear and the most important thing it helps the we're in the ring grooves and the ring groove where and the and the clearance that there is one of the things that helps give you good leak down and good leak down over the life of the engine so you can reduce wear that's all good so WPC really helps this out really neat piston what else I need to talk about well yeah this Pistons made out of 2618 low silicon alloys so it's a nice tough alloy that is ideally suited to turbo motors normally this alloy has to run really wide piston wall clearances because it expands a lot more than let's say a hypereutectic piston but that's what you pay for the strength je has done some things to counter that like they design a cam shape into the skirt so they're not like exactly a cylinder but it's kinda like a cam which reduces your piston slap noise and it allows you to run a tighter piston and wall clearance than you normally would with this alloy now from a naturally aspirated motor you can run this tightest 3000th we run it at about 4,000 scuzz it's a turbo motor puts a little heat more heat into the piston but that's still really tight doesn't make any piston slap noise and the cylinder wall and piston skirt life is still long even with this alloy so whether the key parts vintage of the baked power is the cylinder head slow their head has to flow good number one and if you can get a good efficient combustion chamber shape that's number two so what separates the men from the boys and developing power is a good set of heads though we start with the all pro cylinder head the all pro head is perhaps the highest flowing LS head on the market arguably it's all new casting some of the cool things about it is it has like a really thick 3/4 inch thick deck so no flex even with boost pressure and you don't have to run too exotic of a head gasket when you compare between the deck of the block the thick deck and the thick deck here you get a lot of good clamp it's a six bolt compatible instead of four so you get more even clamping pressure around each under the ports are tremendous like the intake and exhaust parts are huge there see team finished the intake port has a little fin in here that goes to the valve guide that helps swirl in the bacillus heads flow a lot like it's way over 400 CFM on the intake it's about 420 CFM an hour motor and it's more than 260 CFM on the exhaust last time I look the these flowed the most other any any of the aftermarket LS heads the valve sizes is it's pretty big like the intake is two and a two and a quarter inch now that's up from the stock LS is 2.2 inches and the exhaust valve is one one six two five and the stock LSI L is seven sizes one six one zero so the valves are bigger than the LS seven the combustion chamber is shallower and has more quench so you have your quench pads here and here and really shallow like a shallow chamber has like less surface to volume ratio so it's more thermally efficient you don't bleed heat into your water jacket you bleed your heat stays in the chamber and helps drive the piston down a flat chamber small volume is also good like you don't get as much detonation that way the quench area is the flat areas here that are really close proximity to the piston at top dead center and what they do is they squish the unburned fuel air mixture from the edges of the cylinder where they don't do too much toward the spark plug so that helps have a turbulent combustion chamber good homogeneous mixing and good combustion when you have a good set of heads you don't need to run this much timing and we noticed that to be true in this motor like this motor really doesn't like more than 25 degrees total advance even when it's going full-tilt and a lot of that when you start advancing the timing more than that the power actually goes down and a lot of that's because of these really efficient heads the valve stem diameters are a little thinner so less less impedance to flow here's our valves we run a stainless-steel intake we don't run titanium because titanium is abrasive and tends to wear out your valve guides even if you have coatings and anodizing and stuff there they're still kind of abrasive and we found that ty team doesn't have the fatigue life and you know like it beats up the the valve seat and the keeper groove wears out and it's kind of a high maintenance item so we run the regular stainless you can see it's a flathead profile here this helps flow on the intake side the stem is reduced in the the area for the flow goes around that's not around the valve guide that actually makes a pretty big difference in flow like maybe 10% increase just by reducing this diameter with WPC treat the stem and everything how much on the roller cam with a lot of side load helps to life the exhaust valve we use in in canal valve now inconel is a super alloy that's really good at taking heat it lasts a long time it doesn't sink it's a really good heat sink pulls heat out of the head of the valve you could see that the exhaust valve has kind of a tulip contour because the flow is going the other way so tulip actually helps the flow coming out of the cylinder it has a reduced stem like the intake valve and of course we WPC treated it a real quick thing one of the interesting things is when you have a tall deck block your heads are kind of fall out farther apart and to be able to run a regular intake manifold from an LS we run these adapter spacers from our HS you put these on the slender head and you can run any LS intake manifold with no problem drifting is really hard on an engines valve train it's violent fluctuations in rpm the engine can even spin backwards sometimes that the car spins out wrong there's clutch kicking all kinds of things going on bouncing off the rev limiter so it's probably perhaps the hardest thing on the valvetrain out of any motorsport and a lot of the most critical part is the camshaft and we use a mechanical roller cam hydraulic cams don't work too good interesting even like a low lift hydraulic because they tend to start to pump up when you do all this crazy rpm fluctuation and then you lose control of your valve motion and all kind of bad things can happen so even the high performance low ash hydraulic roller lifter doesn't work too good in this case so the cam we use is a custom made for us by comp cams now I worked with their engineers to develop a a lobe profile especially for your turbocharged drift engine now this isn't really designed for the ultimate in power but it's designed to make the best power to be durable and to be stable under the conditions of drifting so it doesn't have a super crazy lift or duration you know it does have pretty radical valve moment motion compared to something that stock I mean you can kind of see you by how the lobes are but it has like an inverted flank on the opening side the profile is asymmetric so it's kind of like faster opening slower closing you want to do this to see don't excite the valvetrain and cause surge at certain harmonics like surges I guess engineering for valve float and it starts to get problematic at higher order harmonics like maybe fifth and six order of harmonics where like the little forces build up and can cause the valvetrain to start to float actually so confuse their latest profiles and technology with computer simulation and spin tron testing came up with this low profile that does not excite the valve train as much to accommodate the turbine motor we did some things like we spread the lobe centers more than typical you don't want to run a tight lobe center on the turbo motor because you basically blow the boost out the exhaust port and you can get reversion to at lower rpms where the hot exhaust can actually back flow into the engine and that's not too good we also kept the the duration split between the intake and exhaust kind of low compared to what works on a naturally aspirated LS some of its secret I'm not going to tell you but comp was very cool about you know like helping us and giving a lot of technical support and sharing some of their latest profile information with us so it's a custom comp cam if you're a serious racer comp work with you to develop your own profiles to they're very helpful quick turnaround pretty amazed with the service and you know like everything else that rubs the cam is WPC treated for all the friction reduction and we're increasing reasons that's kind of like this luster is finish you see on it we're really eager to give this cam a try it should work really well for the rest of the valvetrain for the springs we use Prower double springs and with a damper the damper kind of helps with spring surge it's like a tie like a shock absorber but it's a friction damper that goes between the inner and the outer it kind of is way different pitch and everything so your inner is gonna have a harmonic the outer is gonna have a harmonic and this is gonna have way different harmonics so it acts like the friction damper and it's not all good to resonate at the same rpm so that's the idea kind of helps break up that surge if we're running Crower titanium retainers everything is cryogenically treated and WPC the crowd feeding we explained a little earlier helps fatigue life so there's a WPC normally when we don't do this the valve springs last maybe three four events before they get fatigued and need to be replaced but with WPC and cryo they easily last the whole season and we've even pushed a set two seasons to the emergency which is kind of unheard of with a mechanical racing valve train now we totally don't recommend this but it was an emergency so we kind of had to just keep the same valve springs in the motor and with the tempo and the transportation time we weren't able to change them and you know anyone that does pro motorsports we don't have a multi multi-million dollar budget and tons of spares has probably been in that kind of situation before if you have to push your your parts longer than they're intend to run cryo and WPC is a really great thing one of the key things to assure your engine life if it's a competition engine they really gets ignored is the oil pump now you're stuck oil pump is probably good for you know your typical hard use you could do some track days some drag racing but when you get into big power in a serious car that pulls you know more than one G for a very long time like a car with slicks that does serious wheelie pop and launches like a circle track car that does you know G's in one direction for a really long time or a drift car where we see as much as 2.2 G's on the bank track your regular wet sub system doesn't cut it and one of the things that we found that really helps life is a dry sump system now the dry sump has all kinds of advantages our our dry sump system is daily Engineering I like to run this because everything is all integrated the pump and the bracket and everything is integrated into the pan then so it's very clean less things to vibrate loose the pan is like a nice thick piece of billet the pan actually kind of encloses the bottom of the block and kind of helps keep the bottom in from flexing so the pan actually helps the structural integrity of the bottom in you can see how the pan kind of this kind of comes down around the main caps here you know that helps to make sure each stage of the dry sump you kind of kind of see this screen slot here the cranks spinning around this way and it flings oil into the slot this is a six-stage dry sump so there's four suction stages one suction stage for each crank crank Bay so you have one little Aggie rotor pump sucking all the windage cloud and everything are they out of each section now this helps reduce windage losses so there's very little you know oil air miss flying around in here all the oil gets sucked in so your crank is in rods and everything or spinning and there's not much like oil around in there and that helps reduce windage losses so that increases power the dry sump kind of runs a slight vacuum in the crankcase so your piston ring seal better the dry sump actually gives you anywhere from like 10 to 20 more horsepower for this reason it sucks every bit of oil out and because of the active suction it doesn't matter how many G's you're pulling if the car is upside down it'll still suck the oil out yeah you could be pulling like 4 G's in the ground effects car and I'll still get you in oil like it it sucks it all out goes to this multistage pump here's your 4 scavenge stages that suck out of each of the crank bays here there's two pressure stages that you know feed your feed your engine one goes to the tank and one goes from the tank to your engine the tank itself isn't here it's in the car but it's a big 2 gallon unit and it has filter screens d aerates all the oil gets all the air out one of the things about a wet sump is the the crank and everything's thrashing around and it's flipping your oil up into a froth and and then your wet sump is picking it up and even if you have a windage tray and baffles your oil is still pretty airy ated so I'll use whipped cream as an analogy I mean it's not that bad it's sort of like I don't know and then wet wet sump you have like you know up to about 40% in trapped air in the oil and your lubrication ability of your oil goes really down once you're entrapped air percentage gets passed like 15 percent so you're pumping frothy oil through your engine the and lubricate first this solid deaerated oil under high pressure with your dry sump system so your dry sump gives you good lubrication solid Nandi air non aerated oil and gives you lubrication no matter what the g-forces so it's expensive but it pays off in engine life totally worth it so a lot of like what goes on in the drift engine is keeping the valvetrain alive and because of that we didn't want to spare any expense no interest engines we have the best look with Crower shaft rockers now these are roller rockers mounted on the shaft the rocker body itself is stainless steel the shaft rocker is good because you know the roller bearings the rocker can't spin sideways like it can with like stock type rockers so there's no skidding off the valve tip what's on the shaft the forces involved with going up and down and compressing the springs is spread out over this bigger area instead of just the fulcrum and what happens on a lot of these big LSS is the pedestal for the rocker starts a crack into the intake port and then you know that's not good it's a big vacuum leak and everything screws up these all pro heads are kind of beefier in this area than like a stock like let's say at ls7 head but it's still better to spread that load out so you don't have any risk of cracking your your intake part and we've seen the intake ports crack a lot with pedestal style rockers so the shaft rockers won't let it spin and spreads out the load and both of those are great reasons on the drift engine we're talking about double valve springs with dampers and titanium retainers you can see that here we use a big 7/16 pushrod you want to have a big push rod so you don't have flex and you have accurate valve motion in one of these engines to run a big push rod we have to have what you call offset lifter cups so they actually wear the lifter goes into the push rod goes in the lifter is actually offset so the lifter itself doesn't rub inside the head so that's kind of like a special order item that a lot of people don't realize about these are mechanical roller lifters the with a pressure fred roller now like some of your cheaper lifters don't have a pressure fed roller and we found that those don't last very long in the drift motors so pressure fed rollers are really important everything is Crower the push rods are seamless he treated the machined ends or forged ends really strong stuff most of the engine failures we see start without rain failures so you don't want to skimp here so here's the bottom and you could see the RHS billet main caps and they're held in with ARP studs from six directions there's four on either side of the crank and there's two two connected to the side of the block now this is about as strong and stiff as it gets the registers are bigger than more surface area than your stock Chevy ones which kind of helps the clamp and the stiffness really strong part of the motor you know but drifting is so violent that we actually see some fretting here and there toward the end of the season and we have to align bore of the block that's how brutal you know the loads you see in drifting and it's pretty amazing that a motor that's this heavy-duty can still get some show signs of abuse you could kind of see the aerodynamic profile of the callous crank a little better here you can see the the 625 custom aged rod bolts when we torque the rod bolts we use stretch instead of torque that's most accurate way to do it to get the best fatigue life another tip that if you're gonna build an LS motor especially for drifting or any kind of hard use is we TIG weld the reluctor wheel with tack welds in the few places now in rift engines we've seen time and time again the reluctor will spin and you lose your crank sink now that happens so often so for a drift engine you just about have to do it and it's probably not a bad idea anytime you build an LS actually because it's easy and it solves solves that once and for all some of the things you don't see we use the fluid damper for a harmonic balancer we really like fluid dampers you know they're kind of amplitude sensitive and they're not so you know like in tune they're like one frequency so they work across a wide range of rpm and the more the torsional flip the harder they work so we usually use for the dampers on engines like this I guess that's about it you've seen almost all of it maybe ARP studs holding the heads down when we aligned bore and machine the blocks we use the torque plate try to get the block hot we use the studs so the higher torque this starts the slender wall in the same way if you stock head bolts and torque plates it doesn't distort quite the same you don't get good leak down what other little tricks do we do I'm willing to talk about that's about it but if you want a high horsepower really durable engine they'll put up with the hardest abuse this is something like what we would do for your racing class or whatever your rule we can tailor it to whatever your needs are we can make more power you know it's just matter what your specifics are if you'd like us to build your LLS go to mother like you comm click on garage services and we'll get back to you thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe if you like this video [Music]

Channel: MotoIQ

Views: 220,902

Keywords: motoiq, Build, engine build, chevrolet, chevy, pistons, rods, cam, heads, headwork, camshaft, bump stick, king bearings, fluidampr, damper, harmonic balancer, oil pump, roller lifters, crower, rocker arms, shaft roller rockers, wpc treatment, LS, LS Engine, Chevrolet LS, RHS, block, Comp Cams, ARP, Callies, Crank, Rods, All Pro Heads

Id: TBGX2xL4WHU

Length: 46min 23sec (2783 seconds)

Published: Fri May 08 2020