How to Build a Pole Barn Pt 4 - Banding & Bracing for Trusses

everybody Fetty here and this is part four of my how to build a pole barn video series I finally got all these posts on the ground and boy it was kind of a challenge because the weather took a bad turn here and it got to raining and snowing and carrying on and I just about couldn't catch a day or two where I get this post concrete then but I finally did and they've been sitting here for a few days and that concrete set up real good and it's time to move on to the next part of this project and what I'm going to do next is I'm going to band the top and the bottom of this building and we'll build some bracing and I'm going to get this thing ready to set trusses now something I did just a minute ago just for kicks is I checked my diagonals I wanted to see how accurate I was using the spring line and the batter boards like I said at this point it's just for kicks because if your offers not a whole lot you can do about it I feel expected I'd be off a quarter inch or maybe even a half inch but when I pulled the tapes I'm dead on I just couldn't hardly believe that I was just dead on and that just goes to show that if you pay attention to what you're doing and you're careful using a string line and a batter board you can be really really accurate with it so feeling pretty good about how square my building is now in my previous videos I didn't really mention how deep I dug my holes not it and bring it up for a couple of reasons one is I didn't want to get into the big you know debate with all the internet experts but more importantly how deep you dig your holes really depends on where you're at where I'm at I mean it gets cold here in the winter but it don't get those real hard deep freezing colds and the concern with with your posts is you want to be deep enough so they're below the frost line because there's some phenomenon called frost heave and I don't really understand how it works or why it works but when it freezes real hard the frothy I guess the frozen ground wants to try to push those posts up out of the ground so you want your post to be below that freeze line now my advice is just wherever you're at talk to people who know you know talk to your code people are experts who do this kind of stuff they'll know just so you know my posts are three and a half feet deep in the ground so I'm way below the frosty for where I'm at or the frost line for where I'm at so I'm good to go and I'm feeling pretty good about it first thing I'm going to do today is I'm going to check level on my post if you remember when I dug these holes I spent a lot of time bed in each hole in concrete and getting them all up on the same plane they don't went ahead and launched my post forever put them in the hole conceptually the tops of my posts all ought to be level reality they're probably not in the last video I showed you how I came down I picked the number I picked five feet just some random number and I came down from the top of each post and measured down five feet I marked a line I'm going to show you now I'm going to use that reference line what I'm going to do is I'm going to start my high corner I'm gonna set my laser up and want to take the laser receiver and I'm gonna hold it on that post and whenever I'm you know shooting level and get to solve a tone I'm will mark a line and I'm going to go around to each post and do that then I'm going to come back and I'm going to measure from my five foot line to this new line let's say it's two inches hopefully every post around all the way around I'll measure two inches but reality it probably won't so I expected you know some of them are going to be off if I'm off a quarter inch or eighth inch I'm not going to worry about that but if I'm off much more than that I'll probably climb up on that post and shave it notch out a little bit and kind of bring it back down in the level so that's the first thing I'm going to do today and it's time to get started okay so I'm standing here in the high corner and this high corner is what I've kind of referenced everything off of on this building right here is my five foot line I'm just going to take this receiver right here just start moving it down till I get tone on it right there put me a mark on it now I'm just going to measure from this five foot reference on down to my new Vaughn it's ten and a half inches so I'll just make me a note it's ten and a half now I have to go around to all these other posts and measure them and hopefully I'll hit ten and a half inches plus or minus an eighth or a quarter inch okay so I'll move to another post here's my five foot reference line and I'll just start bringing this down until I get tone I'll make me a mark and I'll measure down on this one this one's ten and a half inches so I'll just go ahead and write that down so I'm good to go on this one now if I've been off a little bit let's say I was ten and five-eighths I just put me a mark here and say plus an eight or something like that so I know how much office post is but this one's perfect now let's measure another measure is there's my reference on this one's 10 and five-eighths let me write that down 10 and 5/8 so I'm off an 8th and 8th is a sawblade that don't matter I'm good good to go on this post I'm blown away at how accurate this turned out I've got two posts they're 1/8 inch too low and they happen to be on each each side and they're not carry any weight so they don't matter and on the front I got one that's about 1/16 inch too tall I don't think that's going to matter but when I put the beam on there if it gets all hinky I'll just I'll shave off a sixteenth of an inch it just goes to show if you spend a lot of time on the front end and have a good instrument a good laser you can hit this thing just right so I'm tickled to death so now it's time to go ahead and start putting the banding beams around the top I'm going to use pine two by twelves because they're really strong or really heavy too so I've got to figure out a way to get those things up there ten feet in the air but it's time to do that now okay it's time to go instrument up these tuba twelves I have two twelve footers that are going to go on this side and you might say well it's 24 feet deep just lay them up air nail them but you got to remember these posts are notched and these corner posts have three inches taken out of them so I need to take off six inches off at 24 foot run so I need this to be twenty three and a half feet now I'm not going to just put one in place and then you don't nail it up and then let another one up there and scribe it and cut it wherever it falls I'm going to cut it so that there's twenty three and a half feet ooh - but oil running down through there and that way if one of these posts is out of plumb a little bit and I'm talking a little bit because I can't move it very much but if it's out you know quarter inch or something like that then I can kind of mash it back into place so let's go ahead and cut these things probably should have done this first but just wasn't thinking that looks pretty good I'm just going to put a screw in it for right now till I get everything looking good then I'll come back and nail it now I have to hold it in place real good so I can get that other one and come to see how I'm working may not have been obvious to you at first what I was trying to do but those two poles on the end we're a little bit out of plan and by doing it the way that I did it using that clamp to kind of draw it out a little bit I went and put the level back on it and those two poles are there perfect now they're plumb and they just look really good okay I got those two sides banded and they're just tacked up there right now I'm not going to really the nails to them until I get all the bands on and make sure that I'm feeling really good about everything being square and plumb up to top guess it's part of my deep-seated fear commitment but you know once you once you run those ring shanks in there you are committed at that point so just wanna make sure everything's looking real good before I do that I've got to get the front and back bands on now now this building is 32 feet wide and I'm working with 16 foot tube or 12 now the front in the back since they're going to be carrying the trusses and have all that weight on them I'm going to stack to Tuba 12 so it's going to be really really a thick beam running across the front in the back now I don't have a 32 foot tube of 12 so I'm going to have to break these things up what I don't want to have happen is I don't want my seams hitting in the same place and I definitely don't want two seams hitting where a truss is going to be laying so here's the way I'm going to do it I'm going to start that first run with two 16 footers that'll get me my span there what that's going to do is make my step my seams be staggered and that'll be better you know for carrying that weight then the last thing I'm going to do is I'm going to come in behind those two beams and I've got some like bolts or some lag screws and I'm gonna run lag screws probably about every 4 feet across that span may be too thick and draw those two tuba twelves up really solid together and then I'll have essentially one beam and it'll be really strong that way so that's what I'm going to do got to figure out a way to get them sixteen footers up there those twelve footers on the sides were about allign manhandle some like to figure something out I guess I'll redneck engineer or something to help me get them up better so let's get started well it may not have been pretty but I got them up there and it turned out really good that post right there is one that was a little bit low so I had to cut just a little shim just a smidge and lay it in that notch and that brought them up just perfect I'm just tickled to death with how they hit just so good I checked the ends it's real good and ply them on the end so I'm feeling really good about this I'm going to go ahead and get the first band on the back and once that looks good and we'll come back in start knelling these things off and then I'll put the next two bands on the front and back okay here in the back again I don't want my seems to be hitting in the same place so at first run and won't come in with two sixteen footers and that's going to work out pretty good because they'll hit right senator on that center post that way all my seams will be staggered and most of them be falling on top of a post so that'll work out really good I'm not going to make you watch me do it because by now you kinda see my method but I'll go ahead and get these up and we'll start nailing this thing off okay I got that first run a band all the way around it turned out really good and then to the twelve so aggravating to work with being up that high but everything went in really good my notches look real good I'm real good and level at the top had a couple poles on the ends that were a little bit out of plumb and I was able to draw them back out so everything is really plumb and square and level and I'm just feeling really good about it and we'll come in now with these these guy organize nails here I'm going to start nailing it off and at that point I just need to get the the second run a band on the front in the back and that part will be done well got all that nailed off and its really good and strong now I nailed the piss out of it so it'll it'll probably be here forever what I'm going to do now is I got to get that second run on the front in the back like I said earlier I'm more stagger the seams on that thing and what I'm going to do is I'm gonna come in here with some of this adhesive here some it's glue I'm going gob a bunch on before I put those beams together and then I'm gonna come in behind it with these three inch lag screws here and I want to run these in and just draw it beam up together kind of like a lamb beam at that point it'll be good and strong so I'm not going to make you watch me do all of it I'm going to put a piece up and then I'll just kind of demonstrate what I'm doing so let me go ahead and get started last thing I'm going to do today is I'm going to put some cross bracing in on the corners to kind of take a wiggle out of it and at that point it'll be ready to put the trusses on well I'm feeling pretty good about where I'm at now got all the band around the top I got two runs a band on the front and the back all my seams break on a post I've got it glued and screwed I've got my bracing in the corners and now I'm ready to set the trusses supposed to rain the next seven or eight days so I'm kind of shut down but when the weather breaks this thing's ready I'm just come in here and set those trusses down I know this was a pretty long episode and I appreciate you hanging in there with me I just had a lot to get done to get this thing ready to put the trusses on hope you enjoyed the video maybe got something out of it learned something maybe got some of your own ideas as always if you like my videos remember to give me a thumbs up leave me some comments and subscribe to my channel thanks for watching

Channel: Got It Made

Views: 368,522

Rating: 4.9686108 out of 5

Keywords: pole barn framing, construction, pole garage, Truss, DIY, Pole Building Framing, garage, pole shed, framing, Build A Pole Barn, pole barn, building, post frame barn, shed, do it yourself, post framing, carpentry, post frame garage

Id: 5azaIqtTsds

Length: 19min 32sec (1172 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 26 2013