How to affordably clad an outbuilding

for the last time this season I'm at the out building in The Paddock and previously you would have seen me do the roof and salt out the floor but I'm storing equipment in here and more and more I really need it to be secure so to make it more secure and weatherproof I might as well construct this fourth wall with a door in the middle so my question to you is how would you do that in the most economical way keep watching if you want to find out how I do it and exactly how much it cost me [Music] foreign [Music] so before we leave Autumn and get into winter and potentially get some really bad weather I might as well bite the bullet and put a front wall on this with a nice big door in the middle that I can get anything in or out of in the future but it's no mean feat over five meters wide and three meters tall is a fair sized wall and will have to be fairly strong to counteract any wind loading and also because I'm in a semi-rural area here I have to be a little bit sensitive to what it's going to finally look like it wants to be Timber to keep in with these buildings and at the same time I don't want to spend too much money so let's go into the workshop so I can describe to you my vision so this is a quick sketch of what I'm dealing with I've got a 5.2 meter opening and a three meter height on this roof and the 6.2 CLS Timber running from side to side carrying all the corrugated shooting so quite a fair size and as I said earlier if the wind picks up something of this size it's got a fair amount of wind loading on it so I need to fix the things that I can trust and the two things I can trust here is this six by two CLS Timber at the top because I've only just installed it and if I can't create anything into the ground because I know I can get a really good fix in by concreting things into the ground the walls not so much because these are existing Timbers and I don't really want to put any more load on those at the moment so I'll show you what I'm thinking just bear with me for a second so my plan is to use Timbers concrete into the bottom a bit like fence posts but then bolted to the six by two at the top and the two middle ones I'm going to use four by four Timber so that's fairly chunky and that's very much like a fence post these ones I use four by two as well so these are the main supports in the middle that will also pick out the doorway and then a couple of supports either side in the same way but four by two just to support some feather edge as well because this is about two meters wide so feather edge boarding needs a little bit of Support over a length of something like that so that's mainly the structure and the skeleton of it that's well fixed at the top and fixed into the ground at the bottom and then over all of that I'm going to cover with feather edge boarding which will look a little bit like this just bear with me for a second foreign so that's what it's going to look like from the outside I'm going to run feather edge board horizontally over the main area of the wall and vertically on the door just to break it up so it makes it look a little bit different at the bottom I'm going to have some oh hang on a second Timber gravel boards that will probably be in contact with the soil or definitely be in contract with the soil but will last a few years and after they rot then it's something that you can easily just take out and replace as well so that's my vision that's what I want it to look like all we need to do now let's make it happen this is an interesting little project as I'm not trying to make this area totally waterproof or a hundred percent secure and neither do I want something flimsy that's only going to last a couple of seasons and look out of place I start by marking out and digging the holes for the posts which is a lot harder than I thought it would be due to a thin layer of buried concrete a couple of inches down [Music] this could be a very long project [Music] once I managed to get through this concrete then I could really get on and dig the holes [Music] just over a year ago I bought this roughneck post hole digger and narrow drainage shovel which has been an excellent investment and has made digging holes like these so much easier these 4x4 treated Timbers are 3.6 meters long so I've got 600 millimeters or two foot in the ground with the rest going up to the beam above [Music] just another little tip Before You Dig any holes be prepared for the amount of material that's going to come out of them and for what we call the bulking Factor so if you take out a cubic meter of material it will bulk up at least 50 percent depending on the material so you'll end up with about a meter and a half so to play it safe assume for every cubic meter you need space to store two foreign [Music] [Music] once I've made sure that the hole is large enough and in the right place to allow the post to sit Plum and in the right position I fill the bottom of each one with gravel to help hold the Timbers in place during concreting and to give a little bit of drainage right at the bottom I found using this gravel really helps to make fine adjustments to the position and the level the four by twos I don't bury so deep as I don't need the strength from them so I trim 300 millimeters off the 3.6 meaning I don't need to dig such a deep hole you'll notice that I'm putting the four by twos on the flat here they would be stronger on edge but it doesn't really matter I think they're already over designed just to hold the feather edge and in some ways I could get away with just using a smaller size Timber with them clamped to the six by two at the top it's really easy to get them all in a nice line the only thing that does look out of place is when you compare them to the existing structure but there's not much I can do about that foreign [Music] to save money I do my normal trick of Mixing concrete here rather than using post-mix material post mix can be useful in certain circumstances especially if you're trying to get strength quickly but be aware it works out to about double the cost of a standard concrete mix so to use it here it cost me around about another 30 pounds foreign [Music] [Music] overnight to get some strength and now these posts are in absolutely permanently at the top of them are still only temporary clamps but before I screw those to the six by two what I'm going to do is release all of those clamps because I'm very well aware that during the concreting process these Timbers were essentially hanging from the six for two so I would guess that there's a little bit of a deflection on it at the moment which is fine but doesn't really want to be there forever so if I release all those clamps it should bounce back to where it was before I started then I can screw them all in place and in some ways that means that these Timbers will give extra strength to that six by two foreign with the concrete at the bottom now holding the posts they tend not to go very far when the clamps are removed for the two 4x4 posts in the center I use four inch coach bolts to bolt them together and for the 4x2 Timbers I just used screws from the inside so I could get some sort of decent seal at the bottom of the door I fix a simple four by two threshold screwed in from either side and with the bottom gravel boards fixed level either side of the door it's just a matter of cutting and fixing the cladding [Music] you'll notice here I've clamped a Batten on the left hand side of the frame that will make sure that all the boards line up exactly and give a 20 millimeter step back from the edge of the post which I think will look better than being flush with it about me [Music] [Music] with the clad in up to high I also fit the door header using a 4x2 and no I'm not making a very low door that I need to duck underneath although you can't see it I'm actually standing on a half meter high work platform foreign above the door I use longer boards that will stretch from one side of the building to the opposite side of the doorway alternating them so the joints are staggered on each row when you work with long material on your own at height everything just tends to take a lot longer above foreign [Music] these boards are 150 millimeters deep and I'm using a 25 millimeter overlap so they're showing 125 millimeters so the last board I cut down to 125 just so it looks the same depth as all the rest thank you [Music] thank you [Music] the moment of truth although it's easy to make a door the right size using half lap joints it's always a relief when you first offer it up and it actually fits I made this in the workshop and if you're interested in how to make a sturdy half lap joint like this that's properly braced then please take a look at one of my previous videos how to make an easy Garden Gate link above and in the description below with one side of the gate hinge is bolted to the door I put it in place and shim and clamp it so I have my planned 10 millimeter Gap all around the perimeter before fixing the pin side of the hinges onto the frame so all I need to do now is clad the door and put the lock on so while I'm doing that I'll explain to you exactly how much this cost me so quickly running through the costs for this project all the timber framing materials like the 4x2 the two by two and the 4x2 CLS for the door came to 112 pound the 54 pieces of feather edge boarding are various lengths were 128 pound the two gravel boards that touch in the ground and in time will rot but can be easily replaced with four pound each materials to make the concrete came to 31 pound and various screws and fixings which is a bit of a guesswork because already had some from previous projects I estimate to be 20 pound the hinges lock and handle all came to 56 pound making a total of 355 pounds with the door clad I finished off I added some trim as a door stop all around and a lock and handle to make it secure and I think the whole thing came out rather well and actually looks probably better than I thought it was going to nice [Music] so I hope you've enjoyed this video please remember to subscribe and to go and check out our patreon page and I'll see you next time hello I think I'm gonna have to put some lights in here [Music]

Channel: Proper DIY

Views: 162,260

Keywords: cedar cladding, garden office, man cave build, garden room build diy, garden room diy, fencing, shed build, shed build diy, shed building ideas, shed building tips, garden gate diy, garden gate latch

Id: pXjffs63pwA

Length: 15min 14sec (914 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 04 2022