HOW I PAINT ASTARTES - START TO FINISH | 40K MINIS

[Music] [Music] right hello guys and welcome to my next altering army update my next painting video I wanted to go through today the process that I am now using for doing my army I also wanted to do this because you know painting is a large part of Warhammer 40000 so is just I guess the modeling side of the Hobby in general and you know you might not be into tabletop but you might be interested in painting the models this is something that I have been doing basically all of my life whether it was first game to kind of Airfix kits model planes when I was a kid model railways when I was a kid and then getting into Warhammer after that and it's something that I find to be extremely therapeutic very relaxing something that if you need to occupy your mind or you can just spend a lot of time on it's really good for that it's definitely I say you know no right or wrong way to do anything so just because you know I do things a certain way that doesn't make it better or more correct it's just how I do it and if you have a different way you might want to try the way that I do something or not or so on you know there's plenty of guides and ways to do things out there online as I've said before one thing that helped me out tons was the siege Studios painting course I learned a huge amount on that you can search YouTube you can search blogs you can look on Twitter there's loads of people out there showing you how to do these things but I thought it'd be good to make it kind of you know a fairly sort of complete video where i showcase the entire process now some of you may not want to watch the entire thing because I understand it's pretty long so if you look down below this video either in the comments or in the notes section I would have put timestamps for you so you can check out which piece that you want to do now my last Army update we were looking at the models that I have currently but I have been looking at how I can update those and I'll do another video about that separately but I have also been wanting to get into some newer models that means I recently painted a hell blaster squad and I also have painted for this video a primaries intercessor now the thing is I didn't fall No the scheme that I was going to use for my army going forward and for the ultras that I have to paint with your new stuff so this video is really the combination of me working out the process which I use to paint my models and what I use to paint them now first off you've got to clean the miniature now what this means is taking it off of the sprue and cleaning up all of the lines on it okay all the mould lines basically now what I'm going to be using here some snips okay now you can get these from Games Workshop but these are Tamiya ones tamio is a really good brand that I enjoy very much for a variety of different things now critically when you're taking these off of the sprue you see I'm leaving a little bit of a space away from the edge of the actual piece of the model because basically those little mould attachments there okay the little risers if you well they would be Rises if they want oh you know but basically the little attachment pieces okay those if you cut them too close to the piece of the model they can actually damage the model especially on say shoulder pads heads small pieces of gear or say something like a leg plate where it's got a very clean edge you don't want to end up having to sort of probably tear that off as you're taking it off of the sprue right so you should end up with all your pieces there like this now what I'm going to be using to further clean these is I've got some again Tamiya metal files there to the left I've got a standard scalpel blade that an emery board and that's about it the emery board that I use is not a brand new emery board you could just whether if you want just rub it against some wood or whatever into it's worn right down or stone but basically once it's worn away a bit it's obviously got a much finer grain now you could just get a finer grain of sand paper I actually have I actually have some wet and dry paper which I would use on you know very fine models if I want to get the edge right right down but for this the reason I use the emery board is because it costs nothing basically that's why okay so then we have to start cleaning the model off so we basically got all of these little mold sprue pieces to take away and again using a scalpel and this scalpel is brand new I always use brand new scalpels when I'm taking or scaffold blades I should say when I'm taking the edges off of the mold lines and so on and so on because you need that you know sharpness to really get it nice and clean and also when you're doing some of this it's much better to have a very sharp blade than a blunt one because if you have a very sharp blade you're going to have to use you have to exert less pressure to actually take those things off cleanly now if you have a blunt blade you could potentially push harder and you might slip and cut yourself so it's better to have a sharp one now again you see when I'm using the emery board and using the metal file here and then if you can tell from this but I'm using very very little amounts of pressure barely any any pressure at all they're just to really just touch on the edge because you don't want to go filing into the plastic the resin okay you don't want to go hard in there because you can end up damaging it and taking away the detail so it's almost actually just letting the tool do the work and just take it away now here on the bulk and itself I wanted to highlight there's a few things going you've got we've got a mold line here you've obviously got a piece of kind of sprue coming off of there on the elbow on the elbow plate you've also got on the shoulder strap you've got another large sort of riser or you know a piece of sprue which is going to be difficult because it's on a vey fine piece of like the strap then again on the top of the gun here you've got some mould lines going on you've got various bits of sprue going on so within this in a very very small piece of the model there's a lot of stuff here which needs cleaning and this is why cleaning the model and preparing the model to paint actually takes a considerable amount of time that's if you want to do it properly if you want to get it nice and clean and looking good because a lot of people you'll see models sometimes and you know triggers the hell out of me but you know that's just like I say there's no right or wrong way it's just my personal preference if I see a model and I can see a mould line on that I've seen models that are very well painted but they've got mould lines and basically when you have a mould line the paint will obviously attach to the mold line so the more paint you go on there with the base coat the layer coat and so on and so on it will rise up off of that mould line and eventually what you end up with on the final model is a shadow will be cast along say the line of the arm or some the gun or whatever and it's very very obvious if you know if you know what you're looking for when you look at a model so if you're looking at a model and you see these shadow lines that are cast basically by the risen edge of the cast on on the model that just looks shocking to me I don't I find it very distressing because why would you spend hours of your time painting a model to look amazing and then just not bother to take half an hour to trim it down so again here just using the scalpel and using the emery board and using the metal files we're just and again you can use the blade hit look like this and you can just scrape away but I'm using very minimal amounts of pressure here because again the sharpness of the blade and that's what you want because you know having a very sharp blade using minimal amounts of pressure means you've got a lot of control and that's what you want you want to have control so that one you don't slip and cut yourself and two you don't slip and damage or carve a piece of the model off because once you've damaged the model its damaged and you'd have to you know either cover it up or repair it in some other way now this piece here is a very irritating part of the model it's basically the the sort of the joint between the arm and the leg or whatever on a space plane and it's basically got this kind of like folded material okay and when you're going in there to try and clean a line off of that is very very difficult it's the same you get this on plasma guns as well where they have the kind of ridged coils it's very very difficult to clean that and essentially what you need to do really is to kind of just go in there with the flat of the blade and try and use the actual blade edge to kind of just pick it out pick the lines off of those coils it's extremely difficult to do and it never comes off super super clean but most of the time if you you know focus and you just use the finest point that you can to get in there you can usually take it off but I'll also show you here on the grip of the gun in a minute how I can clean that off on a flatter surface now here on the edge the strap again what I'm doing here is to try and take it not too close to the edge like you can see we've left a good I'd say you know point of a millimeter there or something you know at half a millimeter to leave some space on there because once you've got that away what I want to do is then go in like this with the flat of the scalpel blade to sort of take away the majority of that okay so we can take away the majority of the edge here look and then what we'll do is we're going like I say with the flat of it to scrape away or to file away the rest of this so yeah look again we can just because now we've got that closer to the point you can scrape some of it off then go in there with a file but a strap like this or say a purity seal anything which is a very weak piece of material or you can have like a pipe or something like this you know you need to be very very careful because again you put too much pressure on it or you just slip with the blade and you're gonna cut straight through it which is obviously what you don't want to do so just you know you just need to think carefully also when you've been going along an edge like this you can see that sometimes when you shave away with blade it picks up another little fine edge off to the side so again you just need to change the angle here on the grip of the gun again this is very much like those ridged elements between a joint or say on a plasma gun and what I found is generally the best way I find to do this is to go in like this with a sort of 45 degree angle and you're just going to sweep across like that with the edge of the blade and you're just gonna take those elements off I find that works a lot better going at 45 degrees rather than just flat along it it's much better to go across at an angle because you don't get caught on the ridges then again back to the elbow we've got a large piece there just take away the bulk of it with a scalpel and then whatever is left going with the emery board and the metal file just again controlling the resistance controlling the pressure making sure to not damage it too much sometimes you'll still have a mark that sheet on there but so as you run your finger over and it feels smooth and it's gonna be not there sometimes you can like I say you can still just have like a white or lighter mark on there but it doesn't mean that it's actually still anything to take away there now we've got to drill the barrel this is pretty straightforward you just have your drill bit and you you know size it or whatever the bowel is going to be it could be a male couple of mil whatever you know drill through now see I'm drilling against my finger here okay now the only reason I'm doing that is because I know that I've got a fair bit to go through so I'm not going to risk drilling through into my finger I basically flip it both ways once I've got through a reasonable amount of it then I hold it like this and I'm drilling through there on the side so I can get through a last bit in the center then I need to drill the front the main part of the barrel okay now this is a little tricky again you can finicky around with this I just do it by eye quite honestly to start off with here you know you did a little guide and it didn't quite get in the center so I'm just trying to bring it back a little bit towards the centre by putting pressure in the other direction and then once I go back in again I've managed to sort of correct it and then I can check again and it's more straight on here and I just go back in and drill drill drill drill drill and then we get straight through into it and then that's the barrel done so again this is another thing you can just practice practice it's I tend to just do it by eye cuz I can't be bothered to mess around with doing any other way if you really wanted to I guess you could get like a little pin or something to create like a very fine fine sort of guide you can create like a small guide for your drill bit to just touch and sit on it might help guide the bit in the correct direction like if you just press a pin into it or something like that but most of time I just do it like that I just by I so shine a couple of pieces there and then we're just going to go through and repeat that process for every other single piece of the model you can start to see why this takes some time because if you want to prepare this and you want to prepare this of course an entire squad that's gonna be enough to do that ten times over so it can take some time but in the end you end up with your nicely cleaned pieces but then of course we have to assemble them so you're gonna have your guidebook which are always fairly straightforward to understand but sometimes it can be a little bit like you know curious and he's any instruction can be most the time it's pretty straightforward you can follow the guides as they are from Games Workshop I'm gonna be using again Tamiya cement liquid cement which I find is pretty good for this what are we doing marine models and stuff which like this have got many components I tend to use a liquid cement more than I do super glue the main reason is that super glue will break potentially it's not so much of an issue with the plastic models in fact actually this is quite a good part of the plastic model when you used to have the metal models which obviously the classic or once and you can still get those and I have many if they fall over at any time even on the table they the weight alone can shatter off any attached plastic pieces so having whole plastic models means that you don't get the same impact and they tend to you know be a bit stronger but when you use this liquid cement it basically bonds the two surfaces together which makes a much strong it literally melts the plastic and bonds them together so that makes a much stronger you know connection there now I'm not going to put together the entire marine now sometimes on some models you would leave the arms off as well for simplicity today I deliberately chose them all away didn't have to do that on the other models I did recently I'd left the arms off and I was just painting basically body and legs arms separately and then shoulder pads and all the other bits separately as I've got here you need to do that because you want to get it nice and clean you have to do that to get in there now priming the model full disclosure I couldn't be screwed to setup the camera and so on to record me doing it because it's kind of a pain in the ass but essentially I just use a spray can of rattle-can you'll also see on the back down the leg plate so that it is not fully covered this is not a super big deal and again just for this illustration today this tutorial I was just like fine whatever you know just get it done so instead of recording it I have done this amazing illustration which shows you to hold the model basically at arm's length hold the cam back towards your chest and then just spray tap like spray tap turn the model 360 every angle that's gonna give you nice good coverage make sure you shake it up real well and don't spray you know let it dry in between don't just go but the Citadel spray cans they actually cover way better than they thought they would years ago I've tried other methods airbrushing with Vallejo and suffer this and I just prefer the Citadel quite honestly okay so now I need to do some airbrushing and this isn't gonna be super in-depth today but I'm going to show you the airbrush and what I use and how to clean the airbrush and so on and so on this is my neo I owatta airbrush this is basically the the cleaning hopper or whatever you want to call it the airbrush itself costs about 70 quid and I'm just putting a bit of cleaning fluid in here to illustrate how the cleaning hopper actually works so once you've got stuff in the airbrush you want to clean you basically put it in here the rest like this and as I depress the spray you'll see you would probably see some water vapor just coming out there if you can see that from those holes there you're gonna want to use appropriate safety wear as well so make sure you get yourself a mask this actually makes a really huge difference this one on the left here you can see with the blue that's actually from other models I was painting earlier in the week and you can see just how much blue I have sort of attempted to breathe in there couple of other things I'm gonna be using is some Vallejo flow improver and thinner the thinner thins it down the flow improver improves viscosity this is just some standard airbrush cleaner as well for cleaning the airbrush and so on and so on last thing the compressor I use a spar Max TC 6 xx x Pro twin piston airbrush that's not going to mean lot to loads of you I used to use a very simple compressor a budget compressor but since switching to this guy it really is a game change there's so much consistency with pressure it makes everything really nice and easy and it just refills very fast low levels of noise that's really good ok base coating so I'm using some p3 signal Balu this is the blue that I'm using for my Ultra Marines and the reason for that is because I needed to find a blue which matched the classic style from my army now talk about that more in a minute but the first thing I want to note here is just you'll see me putting some thinner into the airbrush hopper now I've put a small amount of thinner in there before you put any painting the reason is you don't want to just put straight paint down into that airbrush hopper and then what you'll see is that I slowly mix it in by putting the paint onto the side of the hopper and mix it into that thinner basically you just don't want to dump paint down into the airbrush there because that thick paint is not necessarily going to and you can end up with this sort of loads of pain it's just not really a good way to do it so basically you put a little bit of thinner in there first always just a small amount unless it's a I don't know like an airbrush paint and sometimes you can get away with it then depending on what the kind of quality is of it and how it works Vallejo brush paints are usually pretty good for that and sit it out sort of I probably still put some thinner in there okay so then I'm just gonna start airbrushing the model now again this isn't a super in-depth tutorial and I apologize for the camera angle it's not quite great I was just sort of doing this video on the fly ready the other day you know airbrush it works by pushing air through the brush which collects the paint and pushes it out through that's basically how it works your trigger that you have you depress and it releases that air flow so it goes through onto the model I'll show this off in another video but if you really want to look there's loads of videos online which talk about all this kind of stuff like how air brushes work and you know what you can do with your controls and so on and so on why am i using this color why am i using the p3 signal blue okay for one I need to define a color which matched my existing army because over time Games Workshop have updated all of their colors okay now on top of that when I was a kid I made up my own colors because I didn't have enough money maybe to buy the Games Workshop paints at the time so I just made my own colors and this p3 for myself works really well and I actually think it gives a really nice kind of deep vibrant blue for my army now after I've done that base coat she discovered that it wasn't flowing very well in the airbrush and I needed to clean it and this is because I've been painting earlier in the week and I thought I'd give it a good enough clean but apparently not so first of all I was just getting some of the paint out there by using some a thinner and a piece of kitchen roll because you don't want to just spray paint through the airbrush so just cleaning this out you can again see just I'm not being too heavy-handed in terms of pushing it down against the needle inside the airbrush but just to get the most of its sort of out of that little space there okay then we're going to take the front section of the airbrush off again just to sort of check inside there see how much paint is in there not too much at all I'm gonna just take the back off so that I can remove the needle which is very straightforward you just unscrew that piece and then off comes the needle and again just make sure that's nice and clean I needed to actually later clean right through the sort of needle section but I didn't do it at this time but I did do that later on now these little interdental elements that you can get these many again farm I find these work really well for getting down into that front section of the airbrush because they're very very flexible and they're very very fine and they usually find enough you can actually get right through the the hole of the front section of the airbrush as you see right here just get rid of airbrush cleaner if my airbrush is really clogged I might have some nail polish remover to use because that really really gets rid of that and again you know some people really sway away from the nail polish remover but I've never had any issues I know that it can sometimes dissolve miniatures and whom things like this and it definitely it definitely takes paint off like nothing else once we've gone through there just cleaning some more just to check the airflow here look just put some thinner or cleaner in there and that's working fine like I say later on I did have to clean it a little bit again this is fairly normal with airbrush it's just something to get used to you have to clean as you go along okay next I'm using a Vallejo ultramarine blue and this is what you call like a base coat highlight so really this is just going to cover areas of the model where I want to sort of bring out a highlight now there is another process called a Zenoss where you add white over the black base to sort of again bring out any brighter areas where lights may be catching I haven't done that in this model however one error I made here okay you can see how much paint is coming through when I put the paint into the hopper I just went straight to airbrush and it went and just squirted paint on the model catastrophic error for me but again I wanted to highlight the mistakes or other problems what happened was that when I put the needle back in from cleaning I didn't put it far enough in before I secured it so basically it was a bit of space so it was blowing too much paint so you could see on the side there once I adjusted it I got the the airflow correct again so it's just a little thing to leave in to tell you you know be careful when you put the needle back into the airbrush make sure it's in the correct position before you tighten it up otherwise you potentially allow too much paint in you won't get the right airflow going through now again we have a layer now this was another error on my pots there on this video really sorry but basically I forgot to record the layer section okay it's just using Vallejo magic blue and spraying the same as we did with the base coat so it's just spraying all around the model covering all the surfaces leaving some of those sort of higher parts or any of the recesses where you might want some of that ultramarine blue to come through just putting coverage onto the model so not the end of the world that they didn't record it because it would just show me airbrushing the same as I did with the base okay right varnish at this point put a little gloss varnish this is just a one-to-one mix of Vallejo gloss varnish and some thinner this will seal the color in at this point so that we can do transfers we can do shades and washes and it also just kind of protects the model and it adds some sort of vibrancy as well now this is quite a general video today and like I say some of the bits and pieces I'm talking about like how to clean and areas you might make with the airbrush you know I'll try and do a video separately by talk about each of those things so that it's in one video today I'm just kind of generally talking through the process of painting this marine and any issues I had it's really a video I wanted to just show people who maybe never done this before just wanted to get a general feel of what it's like to go through the whole process of building and painting some models okay next we need to do the de cows or the transfers with ultramarines and often with chapter symbols getting them around a curved shoulder pad is not easy so one thing you can do is just put a little line carve through there to help it wrap around the shoulder plate and you're just going to put that on a piece of watered kitchen roll or whatever kitchen towel just leave it for a few minutes until it becomes loose off of the paper just gonna put some setting agent onto the shoulder plate there and then as you see we just gently brush this on you be careful that the there you go see you may be careful that the transfer doesn't get wrapped around your brush or some other issue now even though I've cut a small section into that transfer and again you can cut your transfers often there's there's for example die Templars can be finicky and stuff like this you just need to be very careful once you get on there but you can see that still there are some little lines and there's some kinks in the transfer okay there's some little sort of folds in the transfer that's very difficult to get off now again everybody has their own sort of way of doing this some people would say not to do what I'm going to do next okay but I have always found that this works well for me I've never had a problem with it so what I do is just get a cotton bud very very gently just apply some pressure to kind of smooth those edges out but you can see the issue that I have here is that the top wire cut it has now pushed those two surfaces together so what I'm doing here is using a very different okay little swab to try and just tease that surface away and I end up being able to move them apart very very gentle pressure to just pull the top section of that ultramarines symbol apart so there's a nice clean break between top of the symbol okay then we're going to apply some more setting agent some dissolver as well to dissolve the rest of the element of that transfer so it looks nice and clean and properly adhered and you know it looks really good on that okay then we need to do the tactical symbol on the side exactly the same process setting agent get it nice and clean on there smooth out all of the kinks damp down all the little ridges and lines now also when it comes to shoulder pads especially for space moons if you had a kink or a little fold or some damage even like if it like when I was trying to correct it there I could have potentially damaged the transfer by breaking it away and if that happens best to just take that element off and disguise it as battle damage which you can paint on later it's very easy to kind of just get around these things it's not a big problem at all and then we just need to obviously get the squad number or the chapter outside the company number on there as well I was trying to use the little swab but I can get it so just use a scalpel very gently to move that okay spots shading you can really put this in at any stage in your model you can do it multiple times through a model process however you want it to be ready I'm just using some strength non-lawyer here again you can thin this down a little if you want you can mix it with other shades if you want depending on what color your model is for the ultramarines it's really fine to just use this straight I don't find it adds much to mix it or thin it or anything like this no loyal is pretty thin as well I find it doesn't leave very very very dark lines which is why in a minute we use some contrast so you sort of darken those off but for now I'm just kind of going around the model wanted to speed this up the trick to not using too much you know in terms of flooding the model and you can sort of take a little bit of the ink or the wash off on your finger if you want to to make sure you have the right amount I'm trying to stick to just using the tip of the brush I mean you can see I'm using a relatively you sort of medium sized brush here not using a tiny tiny brush because it's not really about how big the brushes it's just about controlling the tip of the brush just the tip and just getting it along there and to try and just control the wash so that gets into those little tight recesses and just where it needs to go so yeah that's it really just kind of flowing around any of these areas here where you might find some shadow into all the recesses around the backpack the power plant any of the creases and armor plate elements and all this kind of stuff so that's it ready just going around again on the head here as well we'll get into all the detail with the head I always put a bit of shade here as well just look on the back of the head plate because again you'd probably catch a little bit of shadow there not so much on the front side but definitely on the back right there okay so they're gonna get into doing the black details so this is all the stuff like the creases and the folds in between the armor basically the flexible elements of the armor you can use whatever black you want you can use sit it down a bad and black you can use any of the blacks from Vallejo you know whatever you want to use I think I'm using in Vallejo here but I also use a bad in black as well so they all have slightly different colorations if you're really get into your colors and picking and choosing but it's really not something to worry about if you're just getting into things at the early stage like literally kind of anything you use will probably be fine another thing I do is I tend to not use paints absolutely straight I will very often mix paints again that's not something you should maybe worry about too much in the beginning just using paint straight and following the Citadel guides is often a way to go if you just want the straightforward you know getting into things and you can worry about mixing stuff together later on okay the metallic details next if you're using Citadel metallics some of them cover better than others here I'm using a vo rust color it's not really rusty actually it's kinda like a a bronzy color which is why I use it as I've just found I like this one it works well for the combination that I use oh yeah metallics some metallics cover better than others from different companies some companies is again like Vallejo generally have a pretty decent coverage but not all of their metallics I find cover you know perfectly well Citadel as well some of the metallics cover better than others with the Citadel paints I do find that if you put like a spot of color from you know like whether it's a bad and black or something else you put a spot of color into the metallic it obviously adds you know some more of that pigment in there and that's going to help it cover a little better so sometimes if I'm using like a Citadel metallic I wanted to cover better I can do that so for the gold chest plate then I'm going to do this right cleaned flesh wash on here and again I'm just trying to let that sit onto some of the you know the heavier recesses and so on and so on for the chest plate we put a couple of coverages of that rust on there and for the gold then we're going to move on to using this Vallejo brass which I'm going to be using just to go again on now we're going on the highlight Daria's not the recessed areas and again I'm gonna go in there then with a bit of normal oil to just darken up those recesses before we do the final top layer so just giving a few passes with the known oil then we're gonna use some Citadel Liberator gold to just go in and pick out some of those edge pieces just the highlights really on the chest plate to just really bring out to the gold there and you could go back in there with the flesh shade if you want to just and then just another final pass with it just depends on how much time you want to put on individual elements then we still got some metallics to do on the gun so before we do that I just wanted to tidy up and add a little bit more of the black in onto the weapon before we do the metallics for it depending on how much you've thinned your paint even something quite opaque like black is gonna take a few coverages for this metallic base we're just gonna be using Citadel led to Belcher which is fairly standard metallic you can also use I think like Vallejo gunmetal is fairly comparable which I often use as well just going to put this on the bolt-gun I'm gonna do it on the magazine and the grip and the optic and the barrel going around adding that on adding that on that's pretty much the only metallics I have to do on here I think there's some straps at the back of the marine as well but not too much okay leather details what I do is actually mix these together one to one for my leather because I said I often mix paints to make my own colors and this isn't often like a set recipe although sometimes I write these things down but often I'll just kind of mix it up on the fly and be like yeah you know there's those two go together we'll see how it works out for those who don't know I was a an illustrator designer I used to be a painter and so on as well so I do have a habit of kind of mixing paints together just see what happens my painting process tends to be pretty flexible but that's why I decided for the ultramarines I wanted to get my sort of pattern down for how I'm going to paint them use the Gore Thor for the this inscription the scroll on the gun there as well so this is using a slightly lighter brown to just obviously you layer up and go over the colors then just you can see that straight away that it's a little bit lighter just to try and give some nice tone there and then we're using some Buescher Botti bone I believe just again mixed you can see a mixed with a little bit of the gore Thor there to give it you know slightly softer tone warmer tone and again just building that up and then we use some of those straight as Shabat t-bone spotty how you pronounce these bloody things and to cover over the scroll there to bring out the lightness okay next up I lenses for Space Marines always a favor you can see the difference in brushes so the one on the right is the one I've been using the white brush and the red brush is what I'm using now so this red brush is just a normal thin highlighting brush I'm using some of the Memphis turn red citadel here so I'm just gonna you can see put that on there thin that down about one to one maybe or two two of the paint one of water something along those lines so we're just going to finish a little bit down very very important for eyes and any very fine detail that you get the consistency correct because what you don't want is to have it too thin I know people always say thin your paints thin your paints but you don't want it so thin that when you put the brush against the eye it just floods it with paint okay because that can happen what you want on there is enough paint so that you can maintain control over on the brush and whenever you've got something you know you can just touch it against your finger to make sure that it's flowing properly off the brush and you don't got too much on there again you can see we're just going to hold it at the angle which is easy for me to get the brush on you can see I'm using my middle finger there resting against my thumb on my left hand to try and have some control there try and hold some balance this is what you need to do you need to get your hands in a very very comfortable position so you have maximum control again resting my middle finger of my right hand against the stand against the grip for control when I'm painting against the eye and we're just going to give a few passes of that red and then I'm going to go in here with some citadel contrast black so this is the contrast paint now I would never use contrast paints virtually fully painting a miniature because I just think they're rubbish for that unless you turn into orcs or something like this but for just bringing out data picking details like this they can work very very well so once we dried that off we're gonna want a brighter ready to go in and pick out and this is an evil sons scarlet red citadel and I'm just gonna again give it a couple of passes back in the day you were used blood-red for this but there's any number of different reds again Vallejo have a good variety of reds but I actually find this Citadel one covers pretty well for just doing the eye lenses and so on then once we're done that gonna get some non oil wash again because there's much thinner than the contrast but I still want to just pick out some shade in and around so again I'm just I'm not going over the whole eye here I'm not going over the whole I'm just using the very point of the brush to just pick out the edges on the top and the bottom of the eye then I'm using technical spirits tone red here to just bring out a little bit of red brightness on the eye and also maybe give it a little tiny gloss on the edge there you can see looks really nice I think it works very well and I'm pretty happy with my eye process at the moment now the last thing I'm gonna need to do is get a highlight and again I'm going to use a very fine pointed swab here this is actually Tamia swab cooking some citadel white and I'm just going to very gently touch the paint that I've got on the end of that swab and you can see not enough there cuz I was being very very careful because you don't want obviously go in and put a huge white blob just very gently touching and I find this works way better than using a brush if you're going to use the brush for this the best way to do it is to take a very fine brush again like a highlighting brush you want actually cut the end off so you get a nice square or sort of you know more wholly rounded edge but I think using this it works very very nicely you can see that just those very tiny spots this works great for buttons and brass stuff on say Imperial Guard this is a fully painted primeras I did the other day he'll blaster you can see those same highlights in the eyes I think it works very well okay contrast shading now something surprising because I was really not a big fan of contrast when I first saw it I thought contrast was really a kind of crappy product I didn't think it was very good at all however I have started to find that I can use it for some things because it's much more like an ink than anything else I don't think I would ever use it for painting space wings because quite honestly you get a better effect and a quicker job that by just using straight spray cans rattle can so you know just black prime them then do your base color then get some washes just washing the details and you're done you know not messing around with all the contrast stuff every space wind I've seen that's been done with contrast just looks like crap wanna see for say tyranids orcs any of these Bowl commies anything with a lot of detail you could probably get away with some necromantic gangs some Imperial Guard you know I can imagine it having some good uses there but for what I use it for is mainly for ink detailing contrasting and just picking out shade elements because it has really good rich deep tone with the black or say I have a blue that I use for doing around the edge of the shoulder pad as well so it's really really good and again the same as just doing shading I'm going in here with the very very tip of a highlighting brush and just picking in and around those ill details here and it works really really well for that I did thin it down a little bit here because I wanted to give a couple of passes I prefer to do two passes that say 50% thinned down than just doing one straight pass because depending on how you're putting it on and how much you want it to sort of bleed and gradiate across different areas and so on and so on and also maybe he just want to be a little bit careful with any sort of spillage or overrun around the lines and the details of the model so you might want to just people more careful however you could have done this way whether it was completely neat as well and that would probably be absolutely fine and sometimes I will use it neat when I want to get in and get like a really nice dark contrast between the lines or the area of a model but again with this I'm just going through building it up building it up well the reason I would left most of this footage in because I mean I've been cutting through most of the footage for this video I wanted to leave in most of this because I think it's helpful for people to be able to see all of the different areas that I shade in at this point in time because you're really going in around every little element there okay and again you see that you do the same on the face and the head some small areas there and then I always use contrast for the top section of the marine there because I think it gives much sort of rich or more consistent sort of color wash tone to the top layer and again like I said I'd do a few passes so again just went back around and did a whole lot of detailing sort of on the second part and then we are that's the model contrast detailed up and all of the nice shaded lines him okay next up other detailing it's such a pretty straightforward on this model I had Betty any extra detailing to do because it was pretty much his gun and the scroll on the gun now top tip I use a pen rather than trying to brush any text onto models for Scrolls or whatever this is 0.05 waterproof ink pen and you can see that I can just draw straight on to the model it's really great for doing text and it's just as good as a brush the only thing I'll say is if you put varnish and you brush varnish over this it will completely blur and destroy the ink but it is waterproof however if you were going to airbrush varnish onto this there will be no issues whatsoever once that varnish is dry you could get it wet you could do whatever it's give me no problem whatsoever and then some detailing on the leather strap here just going with some Ag Rex earth shade and do the same for the the Satch or the gun holster as well okay now my absolute nightmare these shoulder pads now because my army is a classic army I use yellow second company ultra main shoulder pads the yellows I'm using a Vallejo gold deep yellow and a moon yellow now getting a bright yellow is always a pain in the ass quite honestly all right unless you're sort of painting Imperial fists and you can just do it as a base coat right but if you're not doing it as a base coat you're trying to pick out color on something which is already painted now you can do stuff like you can use an underlying color of like a gray or a brown so you might use like an author and gray or something like this or as a miniatures den livestream twitch.tv for such miniatures then you could use like a doom Bill Brown or something like this again a rich brown to then build your yellows on top of that okay now what I have found works well for me and to get a bright yellow is like I said I used that gold air okay so an air color okay a gold air color or you could just again used thinned paint but I used the Vallejo gold air and then I have the mid deep yellow which is just a standard color not an air and then I use the muniya at the top the reason is I use the middle one as like a base okay and then I mix in the airs on either side to the darker and the lighter and then what I do is I go around the shoulder pad is I go with a gold and then I go with the moon then go the gold and I go to the moon and I do kind of mix and match them as I go along just depending on how I want it to be now I'm not gonna lie even if you were to base another color which I did try out the gray the other day building up to the correct brightness is a pain in the ass and it's just a laborious and it's just the way it is it's no wonder the Games Workshop decided that ultra means second company should have a gold trim instead of the yellow trim which they'd had forever however unfortunately I happen to quite like the yellow trim and it does go hand in hand with my army so it kind of has to be that for me now but like I say it is a laborious process just doing those single shoulder pads alone took me about half an hour which is a bit of a pain in the ass but whatever okay so now we just have to attach those to the model because the model is pretty much well on the way to being finished this was actually tight I don't know why that was tight getting in there because I tested it it wasn't the backpack that the power plant wasn't holding that from getting in there but for some reason when I went to get it in next to the gun it just was very tight but it wasn't when I tested it at the beginning so I was kind of surprised I was tight and then the other one just get on the other side here so like I say despite the laborious process I do think it's worth it because when you look at it here you get a really nice vibrant yellow you wouldn't think of it's going to be that bright when they start off and it's it's so transparent and you can see the blue underneath and it's a real pain in the ass I'm like I say even if you do get another base coating though it still can take a little time okay now we also want to glue the head on here because the head is is pretty much done we need to do highlighting and stuff of course so just break it off of that and I've just drilled you can see underneath the head here so I can mount it so I was able to paint it you can use anything you want again just to cut up a q-tip or you know a swab swab to mount the head for painting but then again no burrs superglue we're using to see if we do not the other because of course it would strip the paint away so we're just doing that and then just you know position the head how you want it to be I'm having him looking in the direction of where he's pointing which seems to make sense of course there you go so he's looking pretty good already it's pretty close to finish we just need to do the highlighting which of course everybody's favorite highlighting the highlighting is a pain in the ass there's no trick or special thing to highlighting it's just brush control and practice that's all it is you know when it comes to painting anything creative people always want to know what the shortcuts are or know what's the best thing what can I use that's gonna make me better what what paint can I use is going to make me better what brush can I use is going to make me better there's no there's no tool that's necessarily just gonna make you better okay because unless you have some base competency in terms of you know just practicing and getting better physically at what you're doing then the other things just don't really matter you know it might make some small difference but it's not really the issue it just comes from time and practice and that is all it is and I hate highlighting it's a real ball ache like it's just it's nothing fun about it it's just super irritating and you have to just have maximum control all the time and there's people that are a million times better at it than me you know like I am a very base level of highlighting but you know I do the best that I can but it is one of the most difficult things sometimes if you're on like an edge so you could see on the shoulder on the knees and maybe the edge of the armor you can use literally the flat edge of the brush but again it's just about the amount of paint you want the paint to be fairly thick you don't want a fairly thick you still want a thin it a little bit but you don't really want to thin it like you would if you're doing layers and so on and so on because you need to have again the amount of paint needs to be be controlled on the brush and you don't want it to just be watery and just run everywhere that's the exact opposite you want it to be nice and tight so you can get these crisp lines and details like you can see we're doing here now one good thing to note is that if earlier on on your model you have done like a gloss varnish like I did we've done a matte varnish at midway through if you need to correct something like let's say you're doing highlights like this and you it up and you make a mistake what you can do is get a little cotton swab get some water on there and then just rub it off the model and because of that varnish layer that you did way earlier on you're not going to take off the underlying base coat paints alright it's just going to rub off the highlight that you've done on there so it's a really good way being able to go in and correct any mistakes that you have made it's really valuable so once I've done most of the highlighting I'll mix in like a little bit of an ivory color well you can use a very light yellow or even a touch of white and just mix it depending on what sort of army color you're painting it basically wants to be a touch lighter than whatever you were highlighting I'm just going to go around and just touch some of the details on the edges the corners some of those lines to just make them look a tiny touch brighter and then we need to do the metallic highlights this is important so it doesn't just look dull it wants to look shiny and nice and metallic we used citadel LED Belcher for our metal but you could use like I said Vallejo gunmetal as well this is Vallejo aluminium but again you could use a kind of mithril Citadel as well but the Vallejo aluminium is really really aluminum if you're American aluminium it's very very bright and you can see it's literally like shining right here it's very very bright indeed so it's very very good for picking this out they even have a brighter one which is like a chrome so but again since there has all your sort of silvers in there as well just personal preference I'm just going in and doing some of the rivets and around the gun there as well which you can do with the brush or you can use like I said the swab now that yeah that is basically it that would be good enough for most people if you want to leave it there you totally could leave it there you could do a finishing light to varnish of matte or whatever your preference is to finish that off or you could go in like this and do some very light weathering now this takes extra time so again if you're painting a squad or an army you might not want to do this depending on how your army looks you might not want to do this a lot of my army are pretty battle damaged especially some of my older models which when I was a kid how used to really stress them out what I'm doing here is again using that electric blew like I used for the highlighting to just go on and put some light scratches obviously you think about where these are on the model so it looks sensible okay so on the lower part of the model on the feet on the leg plates you can get some light scratches just from moving around and kicking stuff and getting you know hits and whatever but on a battlefield you're always gonna have explosions and fragmentation and shrapnel and what-have-you so you can pretty much put scratches and knocks and grazes and little details and dents wherever you want them to be like I say you can use a sponge as well with the same highlighted color and then once we've done any of the scratches and details we're just going to go in here with a black color of your choice and all we're going to do is just going to touch on to those so highlight scratches that we've done here on any of the edges maybe to make it look like the paint is kind of worn away and the thing is whenever you're doing kind of weathering you'll remember think about how paint acts in real life okay so if you have paint that just built up on a machine right as it gets scratched down usually that paint is layered on so it's going to get lighter the lower into the you know the damage is and then right at the base you're obviously going to have a darker car potentially depending what the material is made of obviously and then basically once you do any weathering that's it you would then go in and do like a last final protective layer of varnish and that can be whatever you want to it could be a mixed matte varnish it could be a gloss varnish it could be a mixture of the two a satin ish varnish whatever you want to but it is worth doing so that you protect the detail and the stuff that you've done onto the model this is one guy as part of my ongoing updating for the miniatures and I'll just leave you with some final shots of this guy and the he'll blaster squad which I've just finished I appreciate was on a long video I could do shorter more specific videos in the future but I thought for today it'd be good to just kind of do a very kind of capturing comprehensive video to just show you my process as part of my army going forward and this is what I want to do with the rest of my models so thank you much indeed for watching I hope you enjoyed I hope this opens you a little to the possibilities of painting models and so on and so on and like I say if you want to see more please tell me down below I'd love to do more alright thanks so much guys I'll see you next time you

Channel: Luetin09

Views: 172,262

Rating: 4.9444447 out of 5

Keywords: Gaming, Discuss, Channel, Future, 40K, Warhammer 40K, Imperium, Humanity, Mankind, Doom, Fall, Space Marines, Heretic, Heresy, The Emperor of Man, Lore, History, Guide, Warhammer 40000, Warp, Immaterium, Rift, War, Slaughter, Horror, Nightmare, Tabletop, Inquisition, Miniature Painting, Painting, Tutorial, Ultramarines, Weathering

Id: 3LR9VOJ6jMQ

Length: 44min 32sec (2672 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 07 2019