How to Paint: Blood Angels Primaris Bladeguard Veteran.

hey everybody in this video we're going to be showing you how to paint a blood angels blade guard veteran who is of course for warhammer 40 000 by games workshop now the blood angel's colour scheme is one that i'm very fond of it's very bold and distinctive and looks fantastic when laid out on the tabletop and in this video we're going to be showing you the majority of techniques that you need to paint such an army the thing to point out with blood angels is there's actually quite a bit of variation on the colours they use for their armor especially when it comes to the guys wearing red armor they'll have different helmets to denote their ranks now our guy being a veteran will have a gold helmet but depending on what you're painting you'll just need to change that part of it up for example for an assault troop you'll want to switch to yellow instead but regardless of what you're painting if you want to paint a blue angels army this video is going to be of use to you so we hope you enjoy it and we'll see you at the desk [Music] to paint your blood angels the first thing you need to do of course is to undercoat the miniatures and for blood angels their main armor color is mephiston red which you can get in a spray paint version so you can start straight away from this if you want to i however chosen to undercut the blade guard veteran using mechanical standard grey and the reason for this is the front facing of his shield which is going to be white now painting white over the top of red is a real pain to do so spraying the model gray really helps out with that and for the particular build of this exact miniature here it's really difficult to keep the shield separate as a sub-assembly so this is just the easier way of doing it by starting out by painting that armor red the majority of your blood angels though we do recommend that you spray them in the fist and red because it's a little bit quicker but either way the first stage is to paint in the armor plating using the fist and red the spray paint is because the paint on version and the spray has a slightly different finish which will be important to fix up in case you need to do any kneading up later on but for a miniature of course it's because he's currently gray and that's the wrong color so what we need is mephiston red now to apply this i've got my trusty old medium base brush which i keep around for this kind of stage and what i'm going to be doing is putting it on the palette which you'll notice is a wet palette now the reason why i'm using a wet part for this miniature is because it's like a really detailed figure it's like painting a character one here so the wet palette is something i like for this kind of thing but you can't use a regular palette if you want to the choice is yours so what we need to do is just add a touch of water to thin the paint down so it's nice and smooth and you can see on the wet palette it's really good for that it's nice and creamy perfect kind of consistency for what we want here and all we need to do is apply this all over the red armor of the miniature so i'm just going to start around about here and start painting it on like this now the only detail i'm going to look to avoid completely at this stage is the part that i want to be white which is the whole front of the shield there so i'm just going to be careful around that detail but for the rest of it it's fair game doesn't matter if i catch for the details because we are going to neaten up as we continue to add further base colors to the miniature you can see the colors a little bit transparent so what i'm going to do is apply this single thin coat like this which you can see i've made sure it's nice and smooth so the detail stays nice and clean but that second coat will just ensure a nice even finish before you move on to the next step you'll notice as well the brush i'm using this trusty hill brush that i've got it's quite afraid it's seeing a lot of action it's not holding a point at all but i keep it around specifically for this kind of purpose you can see the coverage is really good so it's really useful for this kind of thing this first stage where you don't have to worry about being neat and then you can move on to being neater as you continue and this way i won't damage a nicer brush i can keep those later on for the finer details once you've finished applying that even coatiment fist and red you're then ready to move on to base coating the white detail of the shield now it's really important at this stage that you make sure you get some clean water because there will be some red in the water and this will tint the white paint and give it slightly pinkish hue we definitely avoid that happening so once you have some clean water the next color you'll need is corax white which is enough white but has really good coverage so perfect for starting this out to apply it go for a medium large brush something like arrangement brush and the army painter is a really good size for the area that we're covering here and then we just need to get some of this paint ready now corex white does tend to get quite lumpy it's quite a thick paint so you might need to give it a stir before you use it but all you need to do is just get some onto your palette like that and then as always just thin it down with some water and this way you can make it nice and you see bro down to about that kind of consistency there there we go and once you've done so all you've got to do is start applying it to the face of the shield so the area we're looking at here is this kind of recessed part beneath the raised design in the middle so this area here all we've got to do is apply a smooth coat like this now it's important that it's as smooth as possible so just remember keep adding a touch of water into the paint as you need to to ensure it applies smoothly there like that and then just apply a second thin coat afterwards should you need to completely obscure the gray and get up to that pure corex white and there we are the corax white has been applied and you can see we've now got a great starting point for the white on that shield and with that done we can now move on to the next step which is to do some shading because both the red and the white can use the same color to be shaded at the same time the color i'm going to use here is agraxer's shade and to apply it on a smaller brush because the goal here is to paint it into the recessed details to give some definition between the different layers of the armor now you can see i'm also using my regular palette here just to tile and that's really good for using shade paints it's a little bit easier to control them on here and what i want to do with this is just to make sure first of all my brush isn't overloaded so sometimes having some tissue to absorb like excess paint is a good idea but really what i'm looking for is to make sure i've got a fine tip on the brush with the shade held in the reservoir in the middle of the brush so kind of there like that so in the body there you see we've got the paint held in that part there and with this what i'm looking to do is to spot all those recesses and just run the paint into them and just let it collect there naturally so take a look at the lake around here for example what i'm going to do is just start running it into the area like that and this small airbrush here from citadel you can see he's very good at this kind of thing holds a good point and is just really easily able to just run that shade into those corners like that so you just run it in so you get enough definition to help separate those plates out from each other now once you're doing this it's entirely possible and very likely in fact it will happen with me i'm sure that splashes will happen sometimes as you're doing it like that for example that happens if you quickly wash your brush it's very easy just to wipe away the excess like that but if it does dry and you see any marks showing there just go back over that with my fist and red and that'll fix that up no problem now in addition we want to do the shading on the white details too and on these parts it's again just a matter of looking for the recesses and running the paint into them this will include things like rivets such as these ones going around here and you just let the paint just run on its own around those areas there like that and it's a good idea as well to run this color into that recess that goes around the outside of the white just along there because this forms a really good key line should be very useful in the next step when we start painting some gold in addition we've got that raised detail in the center so we want to shade around that too so that means just running it into that little corner along there like that and there we are the recess shade is applied and you can see it gives much more definition to all those armor plates and the shield as well the next step is to return to the white facing the shield to shift it a little bit more towards a pure whites it's a little bit gray at the moment so for this what i'm going to do is make a mix with corax white which i still have my on my white palette from earlier on we're going to mix it with matte white from the army painter which is a really nice pure white but if you want to stick just a citadel paints then white scar is the one to use here but for this what i want to do is make a roughly 50 50 mix so on the palette i'm just gonna put some this matte white next to it there like that and then i'm going for a monster brush in the army painter here to actually create the mix so just make sure the brush is wet first of all there we go and start bringing them together there like that so i'm looking to make the actual color i want in the middle of these two and by mixing the colors like this i can go back and forth between one on the other like that bringing them in as i want until i get the kind of tone that i want and what i'm looking for is around about that that's about halfway okay so with that mixed up then ready to apply it so to paint this on i'm gonna go for an eye painter regiment brush just here and we just need to as always load up the touch of water mixed in there we go and then with this color it's just a matter of applying it onto the flat of the white of the shield so rather than painting the whole thing like we did previously what i'm looking to do is to paint the middle of these panels and not go quite into the corners where i put that shade earlier on so you see around this rivet for example i'm just going to go close to it but not quite over it so that way i've still got the definition of the shade going around it but you can see i'm also now bringing the color closer to a pure white and with that done we now have a really nice white in the shield and can move on to the next area of color which is going to be to start to block in all the gold detail now the average blood angel is not actually very much it's just a little bit on the side of the bolt rifle usually but for this guy there's actually quite a lot and being a veteran of course he's got a gold helmet as well so what we need to do for all of this is base coat it using retributorama and to shade it i'm going to paint over it with some golem and flesh and then we're going to return to retributorama once more to bring the shine back to it but first of all we need to basecoat with retributorama and you can see i've gone back to my regular palette once again just to make sure that my wet palette doesn't get contaminated with any metal flex from the paint and to apply this i'm using the regiment brush from the army painter once again but feel free to switch to a smaller one should you need to for example a medium layer from citadel whatever the case though once you've got the paint thinned down it's just a matter of picking out anything that you want to be gold as i said on a regular intercessor it'll just be a little design on the side of the bolt rifle but for our veteran here there's quite a lot first of all we've got the helmet and the halo behind it as well so all the way around there we also have the trim of the shoulder plates on these guys so that's going to be all this area just here and when you're doing this the trick is of course not getting it onto the red that we painted so far so this is all about angling the brush correctly you can see for this initial part here with this little ridge it's very easy just to let the bristles run into it but when it comes to the edges around there and this side is actually easier turn the model and approach it with the side of your brush like this and just skim it along very lightly you can see i'm being very delicate very light this way the bristles can't fall onto the red of the inner part of the shoulder plate and they get a nice clean line between the two there like that and for the other side and you just turn it around the other way and approach it in the same kind of manner and this way around like that very very gentle very careful okay also there's going to be some gold details in the weapons such as on the sword so we've got all this area here and it's essentially anything decorative so areas such as this raised design that we've got on the wrist and again using the side of the brush approaching very gently so it doesn't fall onto the red surrounding it there like that and there will be plenty of gold details around the center of the body too think about the belt buckle and stuff like that one final thing is of course the shield and for this it's all the rim and the raised design in the middle this is just like doing the rim on the shoulder plate so using the side of your brush for the raised design in the center like that not worrying about the skull for the time being just going for that trim there like that now when it comes to the rim around here we can't quite use the side of the brush in the same way because it's not raised up in any way from the white so for that really brace your hands so you can see i'm just making sure my hands are touching all the time which prevents shaking and this way i can use my brush very carefully to run down like that just very steadily running all the way down like that then let it dry and do a second coat in the exact same way before moving on to the next step [Music] once you finish picking out all that gold detail the next step is to paint over it using gulemon flesh contrast paint using a neat motion like this you want to be really careful and just keep it on the gold details only so for this i recommend using a regiment brush from the army painter [Music] and once the gulemon flash is completely dry we're then ready to return to retributorama this time thing with a little bit more water and for this all we need to do is apply a thin coat onto the flatter areas of the gold avoiding the recessed areas where it's got a little bit more red you can see in that corner there for example and just painting this onto the flat areas and what this does is just gives a really nice shiny sheen to all of this gold and there we are with that done you can see the gold now has a lovely shine to it and also lots of depth still as well with that done we can now move on to the next base coat in the miniature which is going to be for all the silver detail but this the color i'm going to use is iron hand steel applied once again using that regiment brush again i'm still using my regular palette here because it's a metallic paint and with this what we want to do is just make sure that it's nicely thinned down and the brush isn't overloaded because some of the detail here is quite fine so we want this control to be able to access it so once the paint's like that we're ready to start painting these details and on this particular miniature there's quite a bit of silver in decorative parts including on the shield just here so what i want to do is use this to pick out all these skulls of which there are of course quite a lot running along here and going all the way down here just being careful you see so we need that control for to get in between that little spike that we've got from the gold just there now i'm going to be painting the back of the shield as well which you can see is a little bit tricky to access but it's just a matter of taking your time just painting in there gently like that just getting that middle area and all those little power nodes that we've got as well now on the back of the miniature there's some more silver details to do in the form of these vents that we've got on here so these more kind of mechanical parts such as along here and inside there as well there's a bit of detail on his holstered pistol around here including the base of it just there and the grip and then also the sword now i'm not going to paint the sword silver because we're going to go for a different effect later on more like a power swordy kind of glow effect but you can paint itself if you want to if you decide you want to now's the time to base coat the whole the blade with this color and with that the silver is base coated and now i can move on to applying some more base coats to the miniature because we have four more that we need to do at this stage and all of them use the same technique as what we've just been doing so we're going to run through those quickly for you now now first of all we're going to be painting in the black on the miniature and for this we need actually two different shades of black because there are two tones on the average blood angel first of all we have a soft black which is going to be for all the joints in the armor and for this i'm going to use some corvus black then after that we need a darker black for the flat armor panels on the miniature and so for this i'm going to use matte black from the army painter well if you want to stick to citadel and a bad and black is the color to use here now after that we need to base coat all the leather for which we need dried bark and then finally for the purity steel wax we need screamer pink but first of all we need coarse black and with this you can see i'm returning to my wet palette and also i've cleaned the water as well because on the stage we've just done by that point there's going to be a lot of metal floating around the water so you need clean water at this stage so once done that all you need to do is get a little bit of this and use a thinner paint down there we go and then for this what we're looking for is as i say the softer black details on the armor so it's not actually the armor at all it's actually the joints in it so if you look at the back of it you can see the joints of the legs we're looking for areas like that ones that are not going to be actual armor plating more of kind of like a rubber or something like that whatever this kind of material is so that area there like that now also on this particular miniature this is the great color for painting in the tabard as well so at this stage be sure to base coat all of this it can be a little bit tricky getting among some of the details sometimes around here but just take your time and eating up should you need to and when you're doing the back of the miniature as well just be really careful not to get this colour onto the legs you've finished with corvus black we're then ready to move on to the darker black so matte black here from the army painter and to begin with for this what we need to do is to paint the winged skull design that's on the chest plate of every blood angel so that's this whole area here let the paint run into the recess of that texture like that to completely coat it with this black paint now if you're painting a regular blood angel intercessor or something like that then they'll also be the casing of the bolt rifle to do of course of this guy we don't have any guns showing like that so we can't really do that but this model is actually the sergeant of the unit as denoted by that little skull we got in the helmet there and on blood angel sergeants they have the inside the shoulder plates back black as well so what i need to do with this color is blocking this whole area like this being really careful when i get close to that gold and just sweeping outwards onto the flat of the panel and you can see on an open space like this it's a little bit transparent so i'll just be applying two thin coats now this stage we've also got a possibility of doing an extra bit of detail because these models all have a tilting plate on here with individual heraldry so for this guy i want to do something a little bit elaborate on here so you could just put a transfer on if you want to but i'm going to split it so it's half in half then later on we'll do a little pattern on the black side of it so looking at what i've got here i've got the chest eagle being black here or the chest wing skull design being black and then if i did this side black the two would kind of fade together so i'm going to leave that side red and do this side black to do this you can see i'm just checking on here just to make sure the paint's flowing easily from my brush and yes it is so what i want to do is just line myself up to be painting downwards and start with a line roughly in the middle there aiming for that rivet at the bottom there so i'm just going to start sweeping down like this and there we go so that's a nice straight line if you wobble a little bit you can always go back to my fist and red just to neaten up them there once i've got a dividing line it's just a matter of blocking out this side like this with that done we're now ready to move on to dried bark and this is for all the leather on the miniature so we're looking at the belt including all the pouches that are on it and the holster of the pistol and finally using screamer pink base coat all the wax of the purity seals and with all those base coats now applied we can move on to washing them and for this what we need is some normal oil so to apply this i'm going to use that regiment brush because it's a good size now for what we're doing but for this what we need to do is to focus it on these new colors that we've added since we did all of that gold so use your power to help control with this you can see i've gone back to the tile again for the wash and i'm just going to apply a little puddle there i can draw from to make sure that my brush isn't overloaded because it's very easy to have too much like that you see so get rid of the excess and then what we're looking to do is to paint this on those new colors so we're looking at the silvers and the leather and the purity seal wax and also the softer black of the joints now don't worry about the tabard for the time being you'll see why in the next stage when we start painting some more detail on that but we're looking for everything else such as the whole holster just here and one other thing you don't need to worry about doing is the flat black of these armor panels because you won't really see it there but instead look for the softer black for example on the joints of the armor and there we are those details are now washed so we can move on to applying the last of the base coats that we need to paint the miniature and then bring that colour up to the same stage as everything else and this colour is zandri dust to be base coated on all the parchment and also part of the tabard and once that's applied we can then wash all over the tabard and the parchment using agraxer's shade and that will really tie together the corvus black and the xander just that we both have on that tablet now once that's completely dry we can move on to layering for which we once again will need corvus black followed by zandry dust but first of all we need that xander dust and i'm going to be applying it again with my regimen brush and for this we just need to get it ready on the palette as always there we go and then ready to start base coating these details so to begin with we have the parchment of the purity seals such as the ones running all the way down here so just need to block over the whole area there like that but also we have this area in the tabard that's this color now this is towards the bottom of it and to do this what we need to do is just kind of mark out where we want it to be first of all because there's kind of three flat areas in the front of the tabard there so we'll use that as a starting point around about there i think is a good place to go for so just paint a line across it like that then follow that along the length of it using the bottom of it as guidance so we're going to go to about there like that and then to about there there we go and we're going to find it just if we fine tune if we need to but that's pretty consistent line there from this point on it's just a case of blocking it in beneath it like that and then using that we can then start to go into these recessed areas using as guidance to make sure the lines stay straight all the way along once you've finished applying the base coat the next step is to paint over the xandry dust with agraxer's shade and on the tabard we also want to bring this color up over the black as well once that wash is dry we're then ready to go back to corvus black to reapply it to the tabard only and for this what we're looking to do is to paint a smooth coat of it on these flatter areas here leaving it darker in the recessed areas such as in there and with that done we can then move on to zandry dust to apply it first of all to the lower area of the tabard so again looking for these flatter areas such as along here just leaving the shade still showing in the deeper recessed areas such as just there and in the little crease there now also we want to do this on the parchment and for this what i do is hold my brush sideways onto it and just paint some lines running along it like this and i'm looking for the really shallow little creases that we've got because there's a few down there when you get to those parts just skip the recessed areas like that leave a little bit of shading still showing in there and there we go with that done the model's looking well actually really good and in fact if you painted the sword silver you could at this stage just skip ahead do the base apply the transfers and your model's ready for the battlefield however what we're going to do now is start working on some highlights of the miniature to really brighten it up and help the details stand out much more and the first stage for doing that is going to be to highlight the red power armor which is of course the main feature of blood angels now to do this we're going to use a technique called edge highlighting which is the classic way of highlighting space marines and to do it you'll need two colours first of all evilson scarlet for the main highlight and then the second highlight to take a little bit further because this is such a character piece miniature we need some fire dragon bright but first of all we need that evilson scarlet and for this what you need to do is just get a hold of a brush that holds a good point the actual overall size of the brush doesn't matter a great deal but the point is vital if in doubt though go for a smaller brush so i'm using a detail brush here from the army painter which is really good for this kind of thing and to do this really the great trick of it is the correct use of the palette to get the paint ready so we need to focus on this first of all to do just that and so first of all just put some evil some scarlets onto your palette and a little blob there like that and then what we need to do is to thin this down in such a way that it flows really easily from the brush but doesn't overwhelm the miniature in one go okay so start adding some water to the side of your little puddle of paint just there like that and you can use this to add more water as you need to and what i'm looking for is to get it to a point where it's you know it's starting to go a little bit see-through there on the palette but what i can start testing with it now is just trying painting some lines and you can see it's very easily from flowing from my brush just there so that's kind of what i want from it but at the moment i still have too much paint there on the brush so what i'm going to do now is put a tiny bit more water in there like that there we go and now load up fresh so get rid of the excess paint off your brush so it's not going to overwhelm the model there we go and then start fresh so what we need to do is just draw some of that paint up into the main body of the brush and then we'll start testing it on the palette so remember those lines can start along here and see how it goes so start doing some like this and there you go you see the paint's just flowing easily from the brush like that now if you get the paint to this consistency it will apply to the miniature so much easier which makes it well perfectly edge highlighting you won't be struggling and getting a rough finish to things it'll just flow into the model so at that point the only thing you need to worry about is keeping your hand steady so once you've got the paint down to this point we are then ready to start applying it to the model so when you're edge highlighting onto the figure there's actually two main ways of doing it the first one's quite an easy way what you do is rather use the tippy brush to use the side of it so just to find on well pharmaceutical marines are great for this kind of thing so the edges stand out so much this edge here i just get the brush approaching it so it's using the side close the tip and you just skim down that edge like that you can do it a few times to build up the color but you see by doing that i get a really neat straight line very easily now the trick to doing this correctly is to angle the model so that that hand motion is comfortable so it's like downward sweep like that right so what i do is turn the model sideways to be able to access this next line and then follow that like that and then turn it all the way around so i can access this one here and go for that tiny little splodge of gold just there but you can see again i'm using the edge of my brush and just running along like that always turning the model as i need to to be able to get to those areas and then on the back of the leg just along there like that so you see it's actually quite straightforward when you get the hang of it you can get really quick as well there are of course though some lines that you can't quite reach with this kind of thing because the detail doesn't stand out enough to do it it's just not really possible to do it and that's the case in little lines along there now it's perfectly possible to completely highlight your space marines only doing this kind of edge work like this it'll still look great all the details will stand out but you want to take to the next level and pick out those parts and the easiest way to do it is to first of all make sure your hands are really nicely braced so you're nice and steady see i'm really holding like that and then painting a downward motion so you're looking kind of down the brush and sweeping down and this way it's just a matter of well controlling it as you go down so on this one for example using the tip of the brush running down like that that way i can get a neat highlight like that and then you just kind of repeat that and all these edges just turn the model as you need to to be able to access such lines so these little vents at the back again just turn the model so i'm painting downwards and just do that downward sweeping motion there like that so really that's all there is to it it's just a case of just repeating those techniques all the way around the miniature so just take your time and be as neat as you can here this is the one stage that's really going to make your space marine stand out so just going to take your time at any one step this is the one to do it in once you finish that edge highlight you could leave the red armor there but for this miniature we want to take it just a little bit further so now we're going to add an extra fine highlight of fire dragon bright now again i'm using the detail brush i'm going to edge highlight this on and with this color what i'm looking for is the sharpest areas on the armor and just applying a small amount to them just to make them stand out a little bit more so you can see on the little tilting plate i'm doing here i'm just applying small amounts of this orange just in those little corners there just to make them appear much sharper and with this color it's actually very easy to overwhelm the red so this is why i'm being so careful with it only putting small amounts on so it's just a matter of looking around for those edges now and just gently picking them out and with that fine highlight applied the red of the power armor is now complete and we can move on to highlighting the other details in the miniature for which we need much the same technique so first of all what we're going to do is highlight all the gold details for which we need liberator gold and then all the silver details need stormhouse silver and we can also use this as an extra fine heart on that gold as well now after that we'll need some gauthol brown for the leather and then mechanical standard gray followed by administrative gray for all the black detail but first of all what we need is a liberator gold so again it's just the same sort of techniques what we did previously so i'm still going to use that detail brush from the army painter here and you can see that because we've gone to a metallic paint i've switched back to my regular palette just here but still preparing the paint is just the same as in that previous step remember get it thinned down really nicely like that and then use your palette to test it to see how it's flowing from the brush onto the miniature and this is going very easily from the brush just there so i think that's pretty good so load up fresh make sure there's not too much on there and then we're ready to start applying it to the gold details so remember use the edge of your brush whenever you can such as on the arc of these shoulder plates by just skimming along there like that's running along neatly as you can always remember that when it gets those parts are a little bit tricky to get to you can always switch the tip of your brush if you need to to just start running along those edges just really carefully in that downward motion like that with that done we can then move on to stormhost silver once again edge highlighted onto all the silver details to begin with so just following around all those edges once more but in addition if you want to take the gold a little bit further then here you can do an extra fine highlight just like we did with the orange just aiming a small amount of this color on the very sharpest corners so you just die on top of the helmet and also on the front of the grill at the front just there like that now in addition scattered around the miniature there's very studs in the armor and be sure to pick those out at this stage as well next up we're ready to highlight all the leather detail using gawthor brown once again using a detail brush just to pick out all those sharper edges on these details next we're ready for mechanical standard gray to edge highlight all the black detail and to begin with we're looking for these black areas and just doing an edge highlight running all the way around them like that but also we've got the black on the tabard to do now for this go around the outside edge on both sides but in addition we're looking for the tops of the creases on the fabric so you can see we've got some running down the middle there where the light is catching what we're going to do is accentuate these by just painting some of this color following along that top part there like that and again remember that downward motion i was talking about earlier on that's exactly what i'm doing here just following that motion all the way down to get a nice neat line in those areas now we also need to do a highlight on the wings that we've got on the chest plate just here and to do this the best way to do it is to angle the model like this so you're using the side of your brush and just gently run down the feathers like they see a brush just catches the raised area to get a nice highlight like that [Music] and then finally using administraton grey we're ready to apply a fine highlight to the black and this is just like with our orange earlier on let's look for the sharpest corners and apply a small amount of this color right in those areas and with those highlights applied this blood angel is well on the way to being finished but we still have a few small details left to highlight and a few of the little details to paint in as well so for those what we need first of all is a shabti bone for all the parchment and the tabard then some screaming skull to do a fine highlight in those details after that we'll need a little bit of pink horror and this is going to be for the wax and the purity seals and after that for those other fine details what we'll need is dried bark followed by some corax white but first of all we need a shabty bone and i'm still using my detail brush for this and some of this is going to be highlighting like previously but we've also got a little bit of layering to do here so just make sure your paint's thinned down ready for that a touch more water in there there we go and then with this what we're looking to do first of all on that tab are the kind of xander just color that we've got towards the bottom of it for this we just need to highlight it and the highlighting is just continuing on what we did with the black above it really so just a fine highlight going around the edge using the side of the brush like that and these lines that we've got on the tops of the creases just continue them down all the way to the bottom of the fabric so there like that and like that now also we need to do some of this on the parchment and this is where the layering is going to be remember that's kind of sideways motion we did previously same sort of thing but leaving a little bit of the xander just showing through like this and finally using screaming skull we're ready to apply a fine highlight to the tabard first of all by just painting small amounts towards the very bottom such as just there like that and small bits in the corner too so just there like that repeated on the opposite side as well as for the parchment what we need to do is run a highlight down either side so just using the side of your brush to skim along like that and underneath on the more prominent greases just do a small amount running along them such as just there and there we are with the parchment now painted in we can then paint the wax as well for this we need some pink horror and with this you just need to go around the upper raised area of the outside of the purity seal so all the way along there like that just gently building up the colour and then on the interior part just do a small amount of this color just at the very top there like that and with all those highlights applied we can now move on to some finer details and for this first we need some dried bark to do some text on the period to seal parchment and to do this all you've got to do is just do some little wiggly lines just running along horizontally on the paper like this now to get the paint diluted the correct amount is just like when you're doing edge highlighting make it so it's runny but be sure not to overload your brush and just use the tip of it like that just let your hand shake ever so slightly to get the impression of text with that done i'm now going to add a small amount of corax white onto the tilting plate up here now the plan is to do a little transfer on the red side but on the black side i want to do a half chevron so for this what i'm going to do using the detail brush once more let's just get that corex white at about 45 degrees from horizontal so this kind of angle here and then it's just a matter of painting in a downward motion so that comfortable motion straight towards myself and then just slowly widen it out there like that and with that all done the model is very nearly finished all we've got left to do is to paint in the power sword blade and the eye lenses so it's the parasol blade that we're going to do now and for this we're going to do a kind of energy effect on it and you don't have to do this if you don't want to you can just paint the blade silver like we did the rest of the silver in the miniature but for this effect what we need to do is start out with a base coat of fenrisian gray so i'm going to be applying this using the regiment brush from the army painter and for this first coat as i said all you've got to do is block in the whole blade with this so it's just a matter of getting some of this nicely thinned out on your palette there we go make sure it's not overly thin so that's about right there and then once you've got that ready all you've got to do is start blocking out the entire sword and here you can see is the real benefit of using that gray undercoat it's now really easy to apply this over this area like this so the whole of the blade has two thin coats going all the way up to the cross guard just here once you've achieved that even base coat on there we're then ready to move on to starting the actual effect on the blade itself and for this what we're going to be doing is doing some glazing the color we need for it to begin with is thunderhawk blue and for this i do recommend getting all the wet palettes it makes it so much easier now i've gone for my regiment brush from the army painter here just because it holds a good amount of paint for what we're going to be doing but what i want to do on the palette is create a very very thin version of this color so i'm just going to get some on there like that and make sure my brush is clean a touch of water there we go and then start putting it on the side and bringing the paint into it and what i'm looking to create here is a very very thin version of this paint on the palette so you can see as i add a bit more pigment into it that water just becomes tinted with that color and i get a very thin version of the paint there like that so it's going to create a little bit more of it there we go bring a bit more in there we go so i've got a nice little pool of that to draw from so what we need to do is to apply this to the blade of the sword kind of an opposite halves on either side of it and we want to do it in thin coat slowly building it up this is the process where you're just going to gradually build and build for it so you need to be patient with this part but to do it the trick is to make sure you apply each coat really thinly so the water in there doesn't pull anywhere so you don't get like little bubbles appearing in it or anything so i tend to get rid of the paint off my brush then load up fresh like this and then what we're going to do on the blade is start making it darker towards the bottom so down there and dark at the top just there so for the first coat of it i'm going to do is start quite far back and in try and get it around that little node just there but then in one motion just bring it down to the end of the blade like that on the other side we need to do it the opposite way around so starting around about there just go all the way up to the base of the blade like that and then you just need to let it dry because it's so thin it dries very fast in fact it is dry now so now i can do another coat and it's just the same thing again apply another coat down there like that and on the opposite side starting at about there this time another coat like that now the goal is each time you add a coat of this to get slightly smaller in the area that you're applying it to so the color becomes more intense on the opposite sides so the next time i apply it i'm going to be going kind of alongside that node and bringing it down once again on the other side a little bit further down so about there like that and you can see as i add more coats the color's starting to become stronger it usually takes three or four for it to become noticeable but it's very very gradual so as i keep doing this i start to get a stronger and stronger color appearing like this there's no hard and fast raw as to how many times you'll need to do this just keep on going until you get a solid thunderhawk blue appearing from about halfway down the blade as you're doing this it's important that you make sure that each coat is completely dry before you do the next one so if you see a little part where it's still wet just give it time and then carry on once it has dried keep applying those thin coats of thunderhawk blue until you reach this point we can see half the blade on either side is that solid colour and the same is true on the inside of the blade just there as well with that done we can now move on to the next step to use staggered on scale green to continue the effect a little bit further same process for this so i'm still going to use the regiment brush for it and i'm going to prepare the paint in the exact same way that i did in the previous step so a little bit of that paint on there and then we need to just make sure that it's really heavily watered down so not tons of water in one go just a little puddle like that and bring the pigment in so you get a very very thin version of the paint like that so just keep testing it on the palette to make sure it's very thin if in doubt add a touch more water there we go because we can always add more coats if we need to and once you've got it there like that we can then do is just get the excess off the brush and there we go and load up fresh and what we're going to do here is basically repeat the process of what we did in the previous step so what we want to do is make the blade darker towards stick it on scale green towards there and there so just like before start a little bit lower down this time and apply a thin coat like that and then a thin coat going up the opposite direction like that and then as before just give it a moment to dry it shouldn't take very long if you've got it thin enough there we go we can do another coat a little bit further down towards the tip of the blade like that and then the same going up towards the base and again just keep on repeating this process until you get to a solid staggered on scale green in kind of the lower part just down there and the base just up there now there's one other thing we can do at this stage as well and that is that little power node that we've got going down the side of the power sword for this still with that thinned staggered on scale green all you need to do is just run some of the color into the recess around it so just drop it into that little area there like that and follow it all the way to the base of the blade [Music] and there we are with many many thin coats applied you can see we get a nice smooth transition from dark to light on the flat of the blade there with that done we can now move on to highlighting it and then we've got a few little details to finish off too so what we need now is some although and grey to highlight the sword followed by some matte white for a few details then finally we need a little bit of built-in green as well but first of all what we need is all firm gray and i'm going for my regiment brush again to apply this and this is quite large brush this sort of area you can go for a smaller brush if you want to for this but there's not much intricate detail to go around here so i find having a larger brush is really nice because it holds quite a lot of paint here so i'm going to be thinning the paint down like we normally do so this is edge highlighted to begin with so just make sure the paint's soaked up into the reservoir in the middle of the brush there into the body of it and then go to the excess and then we're ready to start applying it so with this what i'm looking to do is an edge highlight all the way around the outside of the blade so using the side of your brush all you've got to do is just start skimming all the way down so just let it catch that cutting edge there like that slightly building it up and following all the way down to the base of the sword there like that then just repeat it on the other side as well pick out the little node so just there like that and then go down towards the base the blade there and then there's also that highlight down the middle of the blade just there now for this it's again an edge highlight but what you need to do is just angle your brush so it's flat on against the side of the blade so as you gently skim this the bristles are just going to catch that central ridge so just very very lightly very very gently just gradually work your way down there like that and once that highlights applied we can then move on to matte white to finish off the sword blade to begin with and you can see now i'm using my detail brush you'll see why in a moment but for the sword the first thing we need to do is a little highlight on the very end of it so on this curved part on either side just going to where it starts going straight there like that and then a small amount in the very middle just the tip of the blade like that where it's sharpest now also at this stage we want to just pick out the node once more just to finish it off just a little bit this white across it there like that and there we go the sword with those hearts done will be finished now also there's a little bit more to do with white at this stage the first part of this is you don't strictly have to do this but if you want to you can do a highlight on the white of the shield here and for this it's just an edge highlight very carefully applied on this area here where it just meets the gold so just very gently paint it along that recess along there now another thing that we need to painting with white at this stage is the eye lenses and you can see the eyes at the moment they're actually quite dark in there and that's ideal for what we want here because we're going to go for a kind of a greenish glow effect so with this what we need to do is if it's not quite as dark first of all just run a little bit on oil in there but then you can see that kind of gold that we've got in the center of it what i want to do is just pick that out with a bit of matte white there like that so notice that i'm painting along the length of the eye lens like that so it's easy to get into that detail one final thing i'm going to do is see the white little stripe we've got just there i'm going to do a quick little edge highlight on the edge of the shield there like that and then finally all you need is a small amount of beltane green to wash into the eye lenses to give them a green glow and for this all you gotta do is hold your hands as steady as you can and just let the paint just run into that whole recessed area like that so the white shows through in the middle and there you go a green glow now once you've done this all you need to do is apply any transfers that you want into your miniature and then it's ready to be based and as always it's entirely up to you how you base it but for me i'm going to go for some urban rubble [Music] and with that base now fully painted this blood angel's blade guard veteran is complete and ready to unleash the wrath of the emperor upon his enemies so as you've seen painting blood angels is very straightforward but the most difficult part about them is doing the edge highlighting on the red armor now the real trick to doing this isn't necessarily what you're doing to apply the paint to the miniature it's actually quite a lot about what you're doing on the palette to get the paint ready so just remember to make sure you thin it down to the correct amount and get it loaded up correctly onto your brush as well and this way you'll find it flows very easily from the brush onto the miniature if you're struggling take another look at what you're doing on the palette because odds are the real trick to getting it right is going to be just changing what you do that ever so slightly but anyway we really hope you enjoyed this video have fun painting your blood angels and we'll see you all again very soon you

Channel: Duncan Rhodes Painting Academy

Views: 513,092

Keywords: Duncan Rhodes, Duncan Rhodes Painting Academy, Miniature Painting, Wargaming, Blood Angels, Indomitus, Space marines, Bladeguard Veterans, Games Workshop, Warhammer 40000, 40K, Blending effect, power sword effect, edge highlighting, painting warhammer

Id: Pf7w5Y9Cf6c

Length: 41min 25sec (2485 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 31 2020

Reddit Comments

[u/Kokevinny]

He makes it look so easy lol

[u/tarodaxx1]

Watched it this morning for inspiration

[u/pattywatty101]

God Duncan blessed be!

[u/Frankenmuppet]

Perfect timing too... I literally just picked up my Indomitus this afternoon, and the marines are getting added to my Blood Angels.

I'm as excited for the Necron as I've always wanted to paint some and what better time to try out making my own Black Magic Craft wash

[u/agu4004]

While his model is cool as hell but my heart is for NMM :((

[u/the_fretful_bard]

I was so excited to see this video. Duncan is awesome!

[u/Cmdrsausage]

Thank you I am definitely watching after work today

[u/fyrryl]

I was watching this while finishing my Redemptor today and the edge highlighting he does compared to mine made me understand what the astronomican feels like to a psychic.