Hi, I'm Rick Steves,
back with more travels. This time we're venturing
beyond Europe. I'm wearing my yarmulke,
and I'm ready to learn. This is the best of Israel.
Thanks for joining us. For a third of humanity,
Israel is, literally, holy land, and Jerusalem marks
its sacred center. For Christians, this is where Jesus was
crucified and resurrected. For Muslims, this is from where
Muhammad journeyed to Heaven. And for Jews, this is where
the Temple of Solomon stood. The crossroads
of three great religions, the Holy Land has been coveted
and fought over for centuries. Israel is filled with a
fascinating range of sights. Jerusalem, with its dazzling dome, is alive with
religious passion -- Christian, Muslim,
and Jewish. And cosmopolitan Tel Aviv
enjoys its in-love-with-life
Mediterranean beaches. Visitors ponder
the fortress of Masada. Pilgrims are spiritually
refreshed at the Biblical sights
around the Sea of Galilee. And everybody
can bob like corks in the super salty
Dead Sea, the lowest place
on Earth. Haifa, with its thriving,
multi-cultural café scene, shows promise as Israel
grapples with ongoing challenges. In the Middle
East, Israel faces the
Mediterranean Sea -- a Jewish state
surrounded by Muslim and Arab
neighbors. Today, the Holy Land, the region west of the Jordan River, is split between Israel and the Palestinian
territories of the West Bank
and Gaza. For our visit, we start in Jerusalem, then visit Masada,
Tel Aviv, and the Sea of Galilee. We'll visit the West Bank --
also filled with fascinating history
and culture -- in another episode. And the contentious issues
Israelis and Palestinians are grappling with are beyond
this scope of this travel show. Instead, we'll simply enjoy
and explore Israel. This country is small -- the size of New Jersey --
with 8 million people. While the state of Israel
was founded just after World War II, the Jewish people have
a history here going back 4,000 years. Within a two-hour drive
of Jerusalem, you can take a sweeping tour
of sites illustrating its tumultuous
back-and-forth past. 2,000 years ago, the ancient city
of Caesarea was one of
the mightiest seaports on the Mediterranean. It was built
by King Herod of Biblical fame and named
after its patron, the emperor, or "caesar." Imagine this place back then,
vessels loaded with spices and exotic goods
setting sail for Rome. Farther up the coast is the 12th century Crusader
town of Akko. Its walls seem to have been
weathered as much by history as by the sea. The Crusades
were rampaging armies of European Christians
who wrought havoc here. Their goal?
To defeat the Muslims and put the Holy Land
back in Christian hands. But Muslim dominance returned,
and in the 16th century, the Ottoman Turks surrounded
Jerusalem with this mighty wall. And the 20th century
has left reminders of the determined
Zionist spirit that built today's
Jewish state. Pill boxes
on the Golan Heights recall Israel's commitment
to holding the high ground. Lush valleys farmed by
co-operative communities called "kibbutzes" recall generations
of patriotic Israelis who turned the desert
into orchards. In 1947, after the Holocaust
and the end of World War II, the United Nations helped found
the modern state of Israel, and Jews, long dispersed
across the world, returned to their
ancient homeland. In the process, hundreds
of thousands of Palestinians were displaced, and, to this day, both peoples struggle to find
an equitable and peaceful way to share what each consider
their rightful homeland. This process has been
difficult, and both sides
have suffered tragically. Around here,
one man's terrorist is another man's
freedom fighter. In the name of defense
against suicide bombers, Israel has built what it
calls a "security fence," and what millions of
Palestinians consider a degrading
and illegal land grab. And Israel is further
asserting itself by building communities for hundreds of thousands
of Jewish settlers across the West
Bank border, in what Palestinians consider
their territory. While there are
no easy answers, as a travel writer, I believe traveling here
is important. I connect with people
whenever and wherever I can. Just meeting people and talking
helps build understanding. WOMAN: Beautiful place
to live in. Jerusalem is a sprawling
and modern city of about 800,000 people. Exploring its shopping
boulevards and malls, an American feels
right at home. But its historic core,
the Old City -- home to around 35,000 --
feels lost in time. Its venerable walls corral
a tangle of vibrant sights. Within a 10-minute walk you can see the Church
of the Holy Sepulchre, so sacred to
Christians... the Dome of the Rock,
treasured by Muslims... and at Temple Mount, the
holiest place in Judaism: the Western Wall. For so many people, Jerusalem is the
closest place on Earth to heaven. Much of Jerusalem's importance
rests upon a very special rock, which lies under
this glittering dome. Muslims believe Muhammad
journeyed to heaven from this rock,
and they've worshipped here for 1,300 years. This glittering shrine,
the Dome of the Rock, is one of Jerusalem's
enduring landmarks. Intricate geometric designs
in stone and tile fit within its pure
and simple lines. While today this plaza
functions as massive mosque
for Muslims, Jews call this place
"Temple Mount." It was the site of their
ancient temple complex, only the foundation
of which survives. It's here
that they believe Abraham, as a test of his faith, was asked to sacrifice
his son, Isaac. Considering this spot
the center of the earth, Jews have worshipped here
for 3,000 years. A thousand years before Christ, King David united
the 12 tribes of Israel and captured Jerusalem. His son, Solomon, built
the First Temple right here. It was later destroyed
and the Second Temple was built. Then came the catastrophic year
for the Jews -- 70 AD -- when the Romans
destroyed their temple and ushered in the Diaspora. That's when the Jews became
a people without a land and dispersed
throughout the world. Here, at that surviving bit
of foundation, called the "Western Wall,"
Jews mourn a horrible past, and pray for a
better future. The square operates as
an open-air synagogue. [Praying in Hebrew] The faithful believe
prayers left in cracks between these ancient stones
will be answered. It's a lively scene, with
intense yet private worship mixing with the joyous
commotion of Jewish families from around the world
celebrating bar mitzvahs, a ritual coming of age. [Singing in Hebrew] The Old City,
corralled by its wall into much less
than a square mile, is divided into
four quarters -- Jewish, Muslim, Armenian,
and Christian. The Christian Quarter surrounds
the site of Jesus' crucifixion. A high point for visiting
Christians is the Via Dolorosa, the route it's believed Jesus
walked as he carried the cross. Pilgrims from around
Christendom retrace his steps. The 14 "stations
of the cross" remind the faithful
of the Passion, the events that culminated
in the Crucifixion. The pilgrims'
journey ends in the Church
of the Holy Sepulchre on Calvary Hill,
or "Golgotha." Today, the dark,
sprawling church is the most sacred site
in Christendom. While Emperor Constantine had
the first church built here in the 4th century,
most of today's church is the work of
12th-century Crusaders. Built around the tomb,
or "sepulchre," of Jesus, it's shared by Orthodox,
Coptic, and Roman Catholic
Christians. Each sect controls a part of
this commotion of holy chapels, a reminder of how any religion
can be divided into factions. Nearby is the slab upon
which, it's believed, Jesus' dead
body was laid. Devotion and emotion have
been spilled onto this spot for nearly 2,000 years, a powerful experience
to witness, regardless of your faith. A Greek Orthodox chapel marks
the site believed to be where Christ was
crucified. Only a few steps away, under a grand dome, pilgrims line up to enter
the Holy Sepulchre and place a candle
near the tomb of Jesus. The Old City is a labyrinth,
rich with sights, sounds, and experiences that
reward the curious traveler. -Hello.
-Hello. I'd like
a pomegranate juice, please. Even stopping for a drink
can be memorable. And the pomegranate -- that
symbolic bundle of fertility -- provides a welcome
and refreshing break between the rich sight-seeing
stops this city offers. MAN: Pomegranate is healthy, it's good for the heart
and good for the blood. I hope you enjoy your drink.
Cheers. -Ten shekels.
-Thank you, brother. The Muslim Quarter holds over half of
the Old City's population. Exploring its busy pedestrian
lanes and market stalls, you feel like you could be
anywhere in the Arab world. We visited just before
a holy day. The shops were jammed, and the energy was
exhilarating. Experiences
are often edible and tasty. Just for you.
[Speaks indistinctly] While complete Muslim control
of Jerusalem is unrealistic, many Arabs envision an
independent Palestinian state, with this part of Jerusalem -- East Jerusalem --
as their capital. It's a very contentious issue,
and Israel seems determined to keep Jerusalem whole
and in its control. In fact, while wandering
the heart of the Muslim Quarter, you may see houses
fortified and festooned with Israeli flags. These are the homes
of Jewish families staking out this bit
of the Old City for their community. [Muezzin calling adhan] The Jewish Quarter
is more orderly and modern
than the other quarters. Much of this area was destroyed
during fighting in 1948, or under the ensuing period
of Jordanian occupation. After they took control
of Jerusalem in 1967, the Israelis
rebuilt this quarter. While it's not convenient
or economical to live in this
medieval tangle, devout Jews
find great joy living and raising their families so
close to the Western Wall. The Damascus Gate leads from the Old City
into modern Jerusalem. Joining locals
in an afternoon stroll down Ben Yehuda Street
in Jerusalem's New City, we appreciate this culture's
fascinating mix of east and west,
secular and sacred, modern and traditional. About three quarters
of all Israelis are Jewish. But most of these are secular
Jews -- non-practicing. About 15% of Israeli Jews
are Orthodox, very religious, and living
conservative lifestyles that require them to be apart
in many ways. Entire districts of Jerusalem
are known as "ultra-Orthodox." And about 20% of the
population is Arab Israelis, generally Muslim Palestinians
who never left after the formation
of Israel. Christians,
who are mostly Arabs, make up a very small
and shrinking minority. The diversity of Israel's
Jewish melting-pot community shows itself in the way
people dress. This is especially
evident at places of worship and in
ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods. With the help of a local
guide, like Abie Bresler, simply people-watching comes with fascinating
cultural insights. Walking down the street, there
are so many different fashions, different ways people dress. BRESLER: Well,
that's because they express their belonging
to a certain group and following a certain rabbi. Different rabbis set standards of how their followers
should be dressed. STEVES: What does the block
on the forehead indicate? BRESLER: Well, in the Scripture, it says you should always have
the love of God on your mind, so in that capsule, they have a parchment
with that Scripture. STEVES: What's the significance
of the yarmulke? BRESLER: Jews wear yarmulkes because they are constantly
reminding themselves that God is above them. STEVES: Ah, so everybody
who's wearing a yarmulke, it's a constant reminder
their Maker is up above. BRESLER: Definitely. STEVES: Now, you see
a lot of Orthodox, even the little boys,
with long ear locks. BRESLER: Regarding the earlocks, the Torah is very specific: "Thou shalt not shave
the sides of your face." And these people take those
words as it is written. STEVES: You notice women are
dressed quite modestly. BRESLER: The Orthodox women
are always dressed modestly. But when they get married, they take it one step upwards, and they cover their hair
in public. STEVES: Now, most people
wear black, among the men. Why is that? BRESLER: The dominant color
amongst the men is black because they're still mourning
the destruction of Jerusalem, nearly 2,000 years ago. Regarding the hats,
it's part of, actually, the uniform defining
which movement you belong to. So, by looking at somebody, you can tell if he's Ashkenazi and which movement amongst
the Ashkenazi, or Sephardi or Lithuanian,
and so on and so forth. STEVES: This man has
a striped robe. BRESLER: That's a declaration
that he belongs to a certain movement,
which is considered very extreme and also does not acknowledge the legitimacy
of the state of Israel. STEVES: So there are many
different stripes of Orthodoxy
in the Jewish faith. BRESLER: Definitely. In Jerusalem, 19 amongst
the ultra-Orthodox. STEVES: And it's like the rabbis
are almost like pop stars. They have their own following.
These are the great teachers. BRESLER: More than pop stars. -More than?
-More than pop stars, sure. Put it this way,
they're spiritual stars, without the pop. Israel is laced
by modern freeways. By tour bus, public bus, or rental car,
getting around is easy. Road signs are in three
languages and three scripts. Hebrew and Arabic
for Jews and Arabs, and English for
everybody else. And the scenery
can be dramatic. Driving along the Dead Sea,
the lowest place on Earth, you marvel at the
timelessness of the
landscape and the history
it's witnessed. Our destination
-- Masada, an ancient fortress
dramatically capping a
mountain and the site of a pivotal
event in Jewish history. A gondola zips us
effortlessly to the summit. Built over 2,000
years ago as one of King Herod's
many palaces, Masada served as a refuge of last resort
back when the Jews were the rebellious subjects
of Roman occupation. In about 70 AD,
the Roman Emperor Titus, in an effort to put down
the Jews once and for all, destroyed Jerusalem. About 1,000 Jewish rebels,
in a desperate last stand, fled up to this fortress
to defend their families, religion, and way of life. A mighty army of Romans
attacked. You can still see the rocky
remains of their camps. To avoid a long,
starve-'em-out siege, the Roman army engineered
and built a massive ramp up the side of
this mountain. Slowly, as the rebels
watched with frustration, the ramp was completed. The Jewish rebels realized they were doomed to a life
of slavery or worse, so, on the eve of the inevitable
Roman breakthrough, Masada's rebels methodically
took their own lives. Today, that mass suicide is
the symbol of Israel's
staunch "they'll never take us alive"
commitment to freedom. And "Masada shall never
fall again" is a popular slogan declaring Israel's
determination to remain
free. While Masada is etched into
the psyche of Israelis, perhaps even more so
is the Holocaust. The best place to both
remember and learn about the Holocaust is Yad Vashem,
back in Jerusalem. This sprawling and
beautifully landscaped memorial
and museum is dedicated to
chronicling, remembering, and learning
from the slaughter of six million Jews
by Nazi Germany. School groups,
visiting heads of state, and soldiers
are all brought here to appreciate what
the Holocaust means to the Jewish people. The museum artfully
tells the story. While working
their way through the thoughtfully
laid out exhibit, visitors struggle
to comprehend the madness and the scope
of that nightmare. The Hall of Names is designed
to give every Jewish victim the dignity of simply being
named and recorded. This archive aspires to
catalog and, therefore,
remember each of
the six million victims. Yad Vashem also
celebrates the creation of
modern Israel. It shows the
spirit of Zionism, that determination
of those who came both as concentration camp
survivors and refugees from Europe to forge a state
for the Jewish people. Photos of the first settlers
show early Zionists returning to
their historic homeland, starting as a trickle
in the late 19th century and becoming a flood
after the Holocaust. Today, just a few
generations later, the skyscrapers of Tel Aviv
are like exclamation points, declaring,
"We've come a long way." There was a popular slogan
back then -- "A land without a people
for a people without a land." That was inspirational,
but it ignored the reality of the Palestinians
who actually lived here and were displaced with
the creation of Israel. Still, it's impressive
how the true grit of those early Jewish settlers turned sand dunes into Tel Aviv
and built modern Israel. Tel Aviv is a young city. If looking for
historic charm, you can stroll
the original main drag, Rothschild Boulevard, with its nostalgic cafes
and venerable buildings. But Tel Aviv is gleamingly
modern and growing fast. Its infrastructure
is impressive and its new buildings
look to the future. Its beach scene
comes with some of the best sand
on the Mediterranean. A world away from the
religiosity of Jerusalem, the people here seem focused
on living for today. In this culture,
food is love, and it seems to celebrate
the bounty of the land. We sat down with our guide,
Benny, and driver, Kobi, to get an edible lesson in this
part of Jewish culture. Hey, cheers.
L'chaim. L'chaim.
Very good. So, Benny, could you say
this is typical Israeli? Yeah, you can say this
is typical Israeli. Everything that you see here
is grown here locally. STEVES: Now, you could say
this is Israeli, but it's also Arab cuisine. BENNY: Yes.
We call it now Israeli food, but you can find it in
the Arab countries, you can find it in Lebanon, you
can find it all over the Middle
East. Here we have eggplants
with olive oil and tahini. Here we have the tahini itself. Here we have another eggplant
salad with vegetables. That's the hummus. Very famous hummus
made from chickpeas. This is something special.
This we call tabbouleh. It's made of burghul and parsley
and cucumbers. Very special, very tasty. It's okay to reach and dip
your pita bread into it. You dip it in each
of the salads, and that's the way to do it,
no need of a fork or a knife. And, Kobi, how do you say
bon appétit in Hebrew? -Beteavon.
-Bete... -Avon.
-Beteavon. Thank you. -L'chaim.
-L'chaim. STEVES: A short drive
up Israel's coastline and then into the interior
takes us down, 700 feet below sea level,
to the Sea of Galilee. Israel's primary source
of fresh water, it's both fed and drained
by the Jordan River. This area has long been
popular with Israeli vacationers and Christian pilgrims. Galilee is famous
as the place where Jesus did his
three years of ministry and where so many Bible
stories were set. In the Jordan River, the faithful believe John
the Baptist baptized Jesus. And today, Christians
from all over the world come here in droves to affirm their Baptism
with a dip into that same
fabled river. [Applause] This busy north end
of Galilee is where the Bible says
Jesus walked on water, calmed the storm, and talked fishermen
into changing careers. In the Bible, Matthew wrote, "As Jesus was walking beside
the Sea of Galilee, he saw two brothers,
Peter and Andrew. They were casting
a net into the lake, as they were fishermen. And Jesus said, "Come follow me, and I'll make you
fishers of men." The faithful come here
to worship, be inspired, and walk in the footsteps
of Jesus. In this church,
a rock marks Mensa Christi, the place where
it's believed Christ, resurrected after
his crucifixion, ate with his disciples and said specifically to
Peter, "Feed my sheep." For Roman Catholics, this is
a very important site, as it established
the importance of Peter, the first pope, among the disciples. Another church is built
upon the place where, according to the Bible, the 5,000 who gathered
to hear Jesus preach were miraculously fed by a
few fish and loaves of bread. This mosaic is from
the original church that stood here in
the 5th century. And this church, perched
high above the Galilee, on Mount Beatitude,
marks the place where Jesus gave
the Sermon on the Mount. Beatitude is Latin
for "blessing." The faithful come
from far and wide to remember how
Jesus said, "Blessed are the meek, for they
shall inherit the earth. Blessed are the
peacemakers, for they will be
called the children of God. And blessed are
the merciful, for they shall
receive mercy." This group, from Nigeria,
is one more spirited example of how
so much of our world embraces this land
as truly holy. [All singing] Having sampled the great sights
and experiences of Israel, visitors, whether religious
or not, leave impressed by the amazing diversity
of the sight-seeing packed into this
small country. And it's hard not to be
impressed by the richness and complexity
of the cultures and traditions
that have steeped for so many centuries
here in the Holy Land. In this land, so treasured by
Jews, Muslims, and Christians, I'm reminded that the prophets
of each of these religions taught us to love our neighbors. And the lessons learned from
traveling here in Israel can inspire us all
to strive for that ideal. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time,
keep on travelin'. Shalom.
