Fusion™ Mineral Paint Furniture Makeover: English Rose Dresser

hi I'm Jenny Lynn from fusion mineral paint today I want to show you how easy it is to completely make over a piece of furniture you may be walking down the street and have a roadside finds or go to the Salvation Salvation Army and grab a little something or you may even have something in your garage that just needs a little makeover so I'm going to show you the simple prep steps and how to paint it beautiful I want to give you a couple of tips when you're trying to look for that perfect piece of furniture that could be a really great upcycle an defines so a couple of things that you're gonna look for is that it's generally in good condition so that means that you don't have any a veneer maybe peeling up or coming off if you do there's actually a couple things that we'll talk about later that you could do to kind of mask that and hide that but you're generally looking to make sure another the legs are broken on this piece of furniture that there's really good quality Hardware here so I can reuse that that the doors are gonna slide really nice and easy this is a great piece overall I'm really really happy with it it was previously painted in our Upper Canada green in milk paints and I just want to change the color so we're going to take it from this classic look to something a little more chic and on-trend right now with our beautiful English rose and then we're gonna do some shading with some waxing afterwards so when looking for a good piece again you want to make sure that it is generally in good condition nothing's broken the drawers are gonna move in and out really nicely if you look for dovetailing as well that's how it's manufacturing you know it's manufactured very very well and smell it you know if it smells like a cigarette smoke or anything on there you may want to avoid that piece of furniture because that can be quite difficult to remove those smells and take a look at the conditions inside the drawers make sure they're in good condition again look at that hardware and make sure that it just moves in and out really nicely so there's a couple of things to look out for when you're looking for whether it's a good upcycle find so now that we've found the perfect piece for upcycling we need to do a little mini assessment to it to see what kind of prep if any is required typically most pieces will require some form of prep but I know so many people are scared of that word it's like a bad four-letter word prep but I promise you it can be as simple as what I'm gonna show you right now so your keys to prep are three things you want to have a little bit of sandpaper that's really important to have with you you also want to have some TSP and TSP is a cleaning solution and I'll show you how easy that is to use and then you may need an odorless solvent or a mineral spirit and that's specifically used for removing any sort of waxy coating surfaces so think of something that's had pledged on it before or wax you want to give it a cleanup with this little one because it's gonna remove that wax because nothing sticks to wax wax is always last alright so let's take a look at this piece here this piece has been waxed previously and has probably had some oil or some pledge on the top of it so the first thing that I'm going to do is mix up my TSP solution and I'm going to clean my piece first because there can be dirt on there and I want to clean all of that off first and then I'm going to D wax it and I specifically know that I have wax on there because I did this piece I purchased the piece that I knew had wax on it you're testing for wax you can take your fingernail kind of run it across and if anything comes off you know that there's probably a waxy coating on there you want to remove that all right we'll get started with our TSP and I'll show you how quick and easy that is before I start cleaning my piece I'm actually gonna remove my hardware so that it's easy to get in and around everything so I'm gonna do that now so now we've removed our hardware and I'm just taking a look where the hardware was to see if there's any ridges there sometimes people paint with the hardware on and around so it leaves a little ridges so keep in mind you may want to sand that down a little bit to smooth it out but we'll get to that after we do our cleaning so we've mixed up our TSP solution rinse here and I'm just going to give it a little stir to make sure it's nice and mixed up there and because we are cleaning I'm going to throw on some gloves I like to wear gloves when I'm cleaning especially when I am removing any sort of grease or wax or any sort of a TSP solution here so I'm gonna take a rag you can use a rag or a sponge you're gonna dip it into the solution and you're just going to wipe it and wash it down so here we go you want to get all around the piece you don't have to use a ton of elbow grease in here but you're looking to see if you're getting any dirt and there is some dirt coming off of here you don't want to paint dirt into your piece because it's just gonna get stuck in there it may not be you know the smoothest paint finish it is important to take a little bit of time just to clean down your piece and I mean if you can see clearly visible dirt sitting on it absolutely you want to take it down it's more what you can't see that's the issue so that's when we come to wondering about our wax and wondering if there's a waxy coating or surface on it see how quick and easy it is it doesn't take a lot of effort to give it a little clean it's amazing how quick it can be and again look at all of that dirt it's not a ton considering the surface of the piece but again you don't know what all that is dust grime grease etc this helps to degrease it helps to D gloss a little bit and I'll just continue to get the size and the legs so now that we have finished our little TSP rinse and clean that's how to remove grease it's helped to remove dirt and it also is going to allow the paint to adhere very very well now on to our next step so now that we've cleaned our piece we're gonna take a look and just see if there's any wax on it I know that we did wax this piece a long time ago so I'm gonna take my fingernail just kind of rub on there and see if anything comes off and if you do get some wax coming off under your fingernail a little bit then you know you do need to remove it it's really important to remove wax because wax is like a resist now when you put a water-based product on top of it it won't adhere to it so a fusion mineral paint it's a zero vo C product and it is all water based there's no solvent in there some of the other products on the market that have a higher solvent content it can actually kind of eat through and adhere to underneath the wax but this type of a product won't do that so it's important to remove that last before you paint with it alright I'm going to throw on some gloves and I'm gonna grab my odorless solvent if you can't get all this solvent you can also use a mineral spirits and grab it at any local hardware store and it is a magical eraser of wax which is wonderful so I'm going to use my blue shop cloth again these are from any sort of hardware store and I'm just gonna put a little bit on the rag there and you are just basically wiping it down if you've ever had your nails done before and you've removed nail polishes this is basically the same thing so you're kind of just doing a really light rubdown and removing again what you can't see which is the wax and it is important to remove if you want to have excellent adhesion of your paint and you can see some of it coming off it's a dark dark wax that was used on here be sure that you never use of ourself you just want to use a mineral spirit or an odorless solvents so I'm gonna give this whole piece I go with this and then we'll be set space all right so I've just finished giving this a wipe down with the odorless solvent which is a mineral spirits type product to help remove all the wax that was on there and I'm really doing this because I want to have an absolute pristine finish with my fusion mineral paint so that means if I had left some of the wax on there it would have acted as a bit of a resist and that resist is okay if you're trying to just stress a little bit and make it look a little bit more aged and antique so instead of getting into all the little crevices because there wasn't a ton of wax on there I could have left some of it but as a general rule of thumb we always suggest removing the wax so that your paint will adhere to it really really well using the right tools to paint your piece is a key essential part of having an amazing finish we here at fuse we don't love using the style Meester brushes these are a premium quality synthetic and natural fiber bristle blends what that means I know it sounds very fancy is that you're gonna get the perfect lay down of the paint and it's gonna flow really nicely onto your piece and it's gonna be virtually brushstroke free the really fine synthetic fibers and the way they taper out means you get a really beautiful smooth finish and they have a whole range of different types of brushes because depending on what you're painting you may need a sash brush the sash brush is perfect for getting into corners just like this so perfect for this type of piece or if you're doing kitchen cabinets a shaker style etc really fabulous now we've got the round brush and the Oval brush and these come in all different types of sizes so look at the size of your piece you don't want to use a brush that's too small so for example probably wouldn't use this one this is just a little bit too small but the next size up you can see is considerably larger what these brushes do they hold a lot of paint and you can actually paint your piece very very quickly now a great way to hold your brush is actually on the ferrule you don't want to hold it here because it's really gonna hurt your wrist and it's going to after an hour to a painting really gonna start to hurt so it's important to get a brush that's really great and depending on how you use it it's crucial so we're going to start painting this piece so I'm going to show you exactly how to hold your brush to get a brushstroke free finish using these beautiful style Meester brushes and you can also use a roller as well so if you're a little bit scared of using a brush we also have these amazing microfiber rollers so I usually recommend these when you have a large flat area to work on there is quite a lot of flat area here and on the sides so we're definitely going to use it on the sides I typically recommend this for your first coat and do your second coat with a brush just to give it a nice brushed finish I love a brush stroke finish it's really beautiful all right I'm gonna bring my mom in to work with me to help get this piece painted up real nice and quick I'm gonna be using English Rose today to paint on this piece here and when you're going from a medium tone dark color to a light color like this you may need two to three coats it all depends on what you're covering I'm aiming for two coats today so we'll see how that goes but you want to give this a good shake and the reason you want to shake it is because some of the ingredients that are here settle to the bottom and those are the heavier ingredients that would really give you excellent coverage so make sure you give it a nice good shake you could also stir it with a paint stick and then you can get ready to go so I am going to start off using the oval 45 brush and when you dip your paint in you don't need to put it in much more than then there okay too much paint on the brush is not a good idea I'm gonna set this here and let's get started [Music] let's get a little more help I'll bring my mom in here all right you may want to hold these drawers out a little bit while I'm brushing here I'm gonna have my mom start rolling besides the big flat panels so take a little dip why don't you throw some paint in the paint tray and you can start rolling with the microfiber roller what I like about the microfiber rollers is that they are beautiful to lay on a beautiful flat coverage you don't get any rest ROK's if you've ever struggled with brush strokes before try the roller it's very very helpful now for your first coat you're not gonna get full solid coverage and that is to be expected so it's better to put two thin coats on rather than one thick coat and when you apply the paint you don't want to keep going back and forth over the slide paint to this I'm not gonna touch it again I'm just gonna keep going the more you go back and forth you're actually gonna start to create texture because as the paint starts to dry and you pull back over it it's already starting to harden and cure that texture is happening because you're disrupting its curing process but I'm gonna use that nice little small brush that we were talking about before many different brushes for many different reasons I'm gonna give this a little go when you're using a new brush you just want to give a little fan out and you want to make sure there's no bristles that are coming loose from it so make sure you give that a little go every time when you start with a new brush and this brush is perfect for getting into the details up here if you wanted to you can put a little bit of painters tape up here if you were worried about hitting it but having the right tools makes it really easy to get such a nice finish so while Lori is working on the microfiber roller there wow look at how quick that is so well I've done this little tiny corner over there the microfiber roller has done the whole side and I'm not usually a slow painter so feeling a little bit sluggish I'll hop on over here and do this side so I'll get the corners up here and then Laurie you can do the flat portions there I'm good this brush is so good to get into these little details there without leaving extra brush marks there we go [Music] [Music] and this is the part where you put on some music and you have fun painting so if you're gonna paint with the drawers and I usually like to pull them out so they don't dry next to the actual face of the cabinet because that's when it can get stuck so you want to pull them out a little bit it also allows you to do the tops of the inside really nicely easily without having to remove it all however these larger panels I'm actually gonna pull out and I'm gonna paint horizontally and again your first coat is gonna go on and not look solid and that's okay it's better to do two thinner coats than it is to do very thick coats the thicker your coats are so longer you're drying and curing time is why because the of operation and the curing happens through evaporation just think the more layers of water that you have on there every coat of paint and the thicker that it is it just means it's gonna take longer for it to cure and you may want to flip over to the Oval brush when you're doing this bigger section here and that would help save a bit of time alright so if you are using multiple brushes and you're huffing back and forth between them keep a damp rag near you because you want to put that damp rag around the brush so the paint doesn't start to dry onto your brush so that's just a little tip right there keep it wet and damp rag with you all the time all right let's pull these front drawers out and give them a go [Music] so while my mom continues to paint I want to show you a couple of quick tips on how to get a perfect flawless brushstroke free finish and I think that is the number one question that we get is how do I not get brushstrokes in my paint finish for one tools are key so this wonderful style mooster brush this is the oval 45 it's a really perfect one to hold it's not very heavy it balance as well on your hands they're really small petite hands so it's actually perfect for me and you need to find which one works best for you when you've got a brand new brush you want to just kind of fan through it because it is brand new it's never been used before you may have the odd bristle that becomes loose but with this quality of brush is very rare that you have anything that comes loose so what makes these brushes so unique and beautiful is the way that the synthetic fibers taper out so that as you're brushing along you just get a really nice natural flow onto the brush let's show you how to dip the brush into the paint we're not gonna put too much paint on the brush I go about halfway through I kind of soak the brush with paint and then I remove the excess into the jar because too much paint is actually what's going to cause brush strokes for you so you'll see I don't have a ton of paint coming off of my brush this is too much paint that's how you know you've got way too much it's globby you can see it on your brush we want to remove it so that you've got just enough sitting in there and then you want to get started typically end to end so I'm gonna start at this end here and I'm just gonna start depositing the paint in pretty heavy there and remember your first coat is not going to be always a solid coverage and that is to be expected so less is more I'm going to show you what too much paint looks like sometimes people think oh well if I put on more paint it's gonna be better coverage it's going to cover more yes that's true to an extent but you're also going to get things like brush strokes like that happening so less is more that's probably enough paint wanna see the paint the whole top so I'm going to start evening it out all the way across nice long brush strokes not a lot of pressure you want so with this oval 45 you want to have it a bit on an angle like this rather than this if you do this you're pulling the paint off if you lay your brush like this it's just gonna stay on there nice I tend to work pretty quickly I love this oval for getting into the corners here it's got a nice stiffness to it but it still allows the paint to lay down quite nicely you do one more little dip into the paint don't need too much of it less is more again I tend to work fairly quickly it's just kind of how I've always worked with the paints but you want to go and take a look and make sure that you don't have any excess pooling in the corners you want to go end to end and I don't really want to go back over this area cuz it's already been drying for a minute or so so once it starts to dry and you keep going back over it you're actually going to create texture and create brush marks and you don't want to do that so we're just gonna let that sit I'm just gonna finish up this edge over here one more little dip into the paint and we want to let it dry typically a couple of hours between coats you can get away with it as long as you have a really nice sound surface that means cleaned no wax on it and it's a fairly matte surface then you could probably get away with between about two hours between coats and you don't have to wait 12 hours but 12 hours is often with if you've got a piece that you're painting and it's exceptionally it doesn't have a lot to adhere to on a super shiny surface so the longer you allow the coats to dry in between the better the adhesion is going to be on that kind of very difficult surface to paint so there you go we'll have that dry for a little bit of time and then we'll put our second coat on I see a little bit of heat right there I'm just gonna take that you always want to take a look you know and just make sure you don't have any runs or anything happening and that is how you can achieve a flawless brushstroke free finish we'll get back and do a second coat shortly so we've applied one coat so far and I can still see through just a little bit so I'm going to do a second coat two thin coats always better than one thick coat because you get a really nice smooth brushstroke free finish that way and I'm going to paint with my style Meester brush here my 4 to 5 and I'm just gonna show you what two coats looks like sometimes you hit a moment where you're absolutely terrified especially when you're doing sort of a light color over a dark color especially say whites or off whites because that color that's underneath really comes through sometimes so your first coat is always kinda scary you look at you say oh my goodness I can see through it it's gonna take so many coats it actually doesn't that second coat is pretty incredible with how much coverage you get from it alright so I'm gonna flip this up in a second and just show you what a second coat looks like and don't typically like to stop in the middle so I'm not going to do this for too too long but I'll flip it up and you can see what the second coat looks like compared to the first coat put this right here so there we have it the second code is pretty much a solid opaque coverage very very happy with that and this was the first coat over top of the medium tone green really excellent coverage really happy there as well if this was your second coat you may need a third but with this I'm gonna be able to just do two coats and we'll be done off you go so you may see over here I have a little bit of a wet rag system going on there and what that means is I'm not allowing my brushes to dry or any of my applicator tools to dry so all I've done is put a death wet rag over top of my paint tray with my paint roller inside and any brushes that I'm using I just interchange as I'm working with them so the paint isn't drying on them and it's a really great way to just keep them fresh while the rest of the cabinet is drying we're going to focus on the top so after cleaning the top I've noticed that there's some old paint that's actually embedded in the wood fibers and I want to remove that because it's going to inhibit the stain that we're coming along with after from penetrating into the fiber there so taking the sandpaper and just very little pressure just enough to remove the paint and that's pretty much all you need it's coming right off remove the dust now because this has been sanded just a little bit more than any of the rest has been sanded you want to make sure that it's an even substrate especially coming along with the stain and finishing oil because you want it to absorb into the wood fibers equally to give you an equal or a consistent look so what I'm gonna do now is just give it a very light sanding and then remove the dust it's not going to be it's going to be basically the same pressure is what I've done over here so I've just sanded it a little bit here to remove the paint and now what I want to do is make sure that it is a consistent absorbable surface so a very light sanding over the whole top how'd I not sand it here I wouldn't need to do this step but you know it's the stain and finishing oil will be able to penetrate more into this area so I'm going to give the whole top a light sanding and that's pretty light at this point you want to just remove the dust and I've just got a rag here for that so the dust has been removed from my very light sanding and I'm left with this beautiful smooth maple wood I'm going to be using our stain and finishing oil on it just to make it darker than what it is right now this is the color cappuccino and this is a pigmented finishing oil there isn't any urethane in it but there is a proprietary resin which makes it ultra durable so one coat is all I'm going to need for this surface there's a lot of pigments in here and they tend to settle at the bottom so you want to give it a good shake prior to opening it and with one of these little handy dandy can openers because there is quite a little lip here and it's there on purpose just to keep a really good seal for transit okay so opening up the can taking your stirrer stick you want to reach down to the very bottom because that's where the pigment is and the sediment all the oils go to the top and the sediment and the coloring goes to the bottom so giving it a really good stir you can actually see a little bit at the bottom of this stick so you have to make sure it's a very uniform mixture there's dryers there's oils there's a little bit of a resident and those pigments and they have to be 100% mixed throughout okay I'm happy with that so small brush it's removing the excess not right now I'm just going to willy-nilly slap it on because what I want to do is to make sure that this wood absorbs as much as it possibly can so you actually you want to over saturate the surface the stain of finishing amount it has an odorless mineral spirit in there and it doesn't have that really stinky irritating solvent tea aroma that a lot of other products have so you can use this indoors although it's always nice to crack open a window so I'm just kind of smearing it all on the top and what I want to do just make sure allow for that would to drink it up this is a maple so it's a hardwood so it's not going to actually absorb too much and you can tell on some of the softer woods such as pine you go over it with a brush and it looks like it's immediately dried and if that's the case you put more oil on it right away with the maple it's pretty much sitting on top this is going to be gorgeous if you want to add more protection on to this particular project we do have a natural color where it's only the oils and the resin there's no pigments in there just in case you get the color you want and you want to have extra protection because it's going to be washed daily then you might want to put on another layer but this becomes a very durable finish you can even put it on floors so I'm using a mini brush today which is a bit of a mistake because this is taking a little longer than it should I should actually be using say a 2 inch workshop bristle brush if I had gloves on I could actually even apply this with a rag so along the edge a lot of woods the side grain is an open edge grain and it will tend to really saturate with this oil it'll really soak it up like a sponge be very careful this is very thin so you don't want it to drip onto your your newly painted surface you can see how here and there it's starting to soak in a bit you're going to be removing all the excess stain and finishing oil shortly and then you allow it to dry for about 8 hours before putting on another coat or a coat of the natural all right so I have oversaturated my wood finish with the stain and finishing oil in the color cappuccino and right now the wood is just soaking in as much as it possibly can everything sitting on top now at this point means that it's saturated so I'm going to be removing the excess with these gloved hands and what is normally used as an applicator I'm going to be using it as a remover and the excess oil oops so you want to make sure that you're applying even pressure so as I lay it down and run it across I'm going to be taking up any excess oil but it's very important even pressure and you go always in the direction of the grain of the wood and again I just want to stress that you want to use the same pressure pushing downwards if you lighten up halfway across you're gonna actually see that you you've left some excess oil there and again just to repeat that I'm going in the direction of the grain of the wood you don't want to go horizontal or across the grain because that will really show up like a sore thumb and just to do the edge and I really love the depth of this color so if I do put some more protection on here it's just going to be the natural if anything I mean this is going to be a sideboard it's not gonna be washed daily and the resin that's mixed in with the oil this is going to be a washable surface but if you really want to scrub it and wash it daily I would put one more coat of the natural alright so we've finished our two coats of English rose and we put the beautiful all in one scene the finishing oil in the cappuccino color on top just to richen up the wood a little bit and that top coat all-in-one is so durable that you can't wash it you can even use it on your floors so putting it on our dresser top it's gonna be very durable now the fuchsia mineral paint is sort of that all-in-one it has the built in top coat so you don't need to do anything more to it if you love it just the way it is you can leave it like that this color is a little bit on the brighter side and I want to bring in a little bit more of an antique feel to it but I don't want to do any distressing so I'm going to use one of our tinted waxes and this is our espresso wax this is a really beautiful easy to use buttery soft wax it is just like espresso so feel like coffee and you like that rich color that's exactly what it's like so I'm gonna do a bit of a shading shadowing technique or I'm gonna go darker on the outside and lighter on the inside and I'm really gonna highlight a lot of these ridges and areas over here so let's get started so we've got these natural bristle staal Meister brushes these can be used as a paint brush as well as a wax brush this is really handy when you've got a pretty large project that you want to wax because your hand can get quite tired if you're just using a rag so using a brush and the proper size brush is really going to help you I'm gonna go with the big one I'm going to use this really large brush and I am going to dip into this little container of the espresso and it fits really nicely and there we have the wax right there you don't need too much wax it's pretty strong with pigments but because fusion mineral paint has a built-in topcoat I don't need to worry about this soaking in too much and staining it too much so I can actually be quite liberal with how I apply it and then I can come back afterwards and sort of lighten it up if I want to so I'm going to go a little heavier in the edges here and then I'm gonna fade into a bit of a lighter finish so it's kind of not so much an ombre effect but a shadowing effect darker on the outsides and later on the insides really easy to use these waxes are made with real pure beeswax and find quality pigments it's manufactured by clapping skis waxes and making waxes for over 35 almost 40 years now there are wonderful family operated company based out of BC Canada and I absolutely love using these waxes because there's virtually no harsh chemical odors that come from this whatsoever so it's really really beautiful to work with alright so I'm just getting a little heavier on the edges I'm going to get down here in some of the detail on the legs typically your legs would get beat up and be a little bit dirtier so I'm happy to kind of beat that up a little bit more and add some more of the wax there it's really easy to brush on wax it goes a lot faster and I'm just gonna do a little bit of blending so you'll come back in a few minutes once I start doing some of that so I decided to choose the espresso color because I like that it's just going to soften an aged it and it's gonna complement the cappuccino color top which i think is gonna be really nice and I was thinking of going with the black wax but I did a little test piece beforehand and I really liked how the chocolate undertone of the espresso really pulled with the warmth of the pink so you want to kind of give it you know a test first just to see how you like it before you go ahead and do your entire piece really softens up the color makes it look a little bit more aged and antiqued I'm going to show you a trick I'm going to take the clear and I'm going to actually mix some of the clear in with the espresso so I'm going to take this one here I'm gonna use the lid and take a little bit of espresso and I'm gonna blend the two together to kind of make my own lighter color so I take the two of those I'm just gonna blend them and now I can use this started in the middle as a lighter version of the color even though it's going on a little heavier it's because I'm applying a little heavier but once they come and buff it it'll actually be later it's just a way to lighten up your color I think I'll do the sides now so I'll take a dark color again and hop over to the sides get in nice and heavy here on all the details there we go and for this whole piece I won't even use half the container so a little bit goes a long way these are our small size 50 gram containers they're just perfect for our project when I'm not sure quite what to do to a piece to really make it pop I'll usually take a look at the different types of waxes that we have and I'll see what I want to do with it so sometimes if I want to add a little shimmer I'll add one of our metallic waxes so I could have easily added a pearl to this and the pearl would have been really really pretty as well to lighten it up and give it a nice sort of shimmer [Music] I've just finished applying my espresso wax heavier on the outside and then I did a blend of the clear and espresso and kind of mix that sort of in the middle I'm going for more of a shadow shaded effects and you can custom mix your waxes by adding a little bit of clear just to kind of dull down the intensity of them now I'm going to take my blue shot cloth and I'm going to start buffing so with wax you have a long open time this can sit here for you know a couple of hours so you don't have to worry about it's like ruining your wood or deepening it too too much so when you come back to buff you literally just take a cloth and you just start buffing and the more pressure you apply the more that will come off so I want to apply more pressure in the middle cuz I want it to be a lighter color and I want to keep the outer parts darker so I won't apply as much pressure in these areas here and I may come back after and look at it and say hey I want to make it a little darker so add a little bit more wax you kind of want to just step back and take a look and see visually how it is to your eye and what your appeal is pretty straightforward to buff you just remove the excess and this really just gives it a beautiful soft luster of the finish and because we're using a tinted pigmented wax it's also just ever so slightly changing the sheen of it [Music] so here's a great little tip and trick if you feel you've applied too much of a darker wax or a pigmented wax you can actually erase it remove it by using the clear so you just take a little bit of clear onto a cloth or a rag and I'm just gonna show you how buffing it in actually removes and you see how it cleans it right up there so it removes any of the darker wax that you put on there so a little tip there let's just do a little recap on what we did with this piece originally it was painted with milk paint and a wax finish sort of a mid-tone green color and we decided to brighten it up and lighten up with the beautiful new English rose and I wanted to just give it a little bit more of an aged and antique feel so I did a little bit of shading technique with the espresso wax and the hardware it was in beautiful condition and I really felt that it complemented the wood top which we also did a cappuccino all in one state and finishing oil on top again just to rich it up a little bit more so with all of that done I feel it's really pulled the piece together and it's now a beautiful hip chic antique piece [Music]

Channel: Fusion Mineral Paint

Views: 525,061

Rating: 4.7558541 out of 5

Keywords: fusion mineral paint, fusion, mineral paint, homestead house milk paint co, homestead house, milk paint, natural paint, ecofriendly paint, biodegradable paint, repurposing, repurposing furniture, thrifted furniture, furniture diy, diy tutorial, diy how to, paint diy, pink, how to milk paint, how to mineral paint, jennylyn pringle, loree pringle, furniture makeover, makeover, how to paint a dresser

Id: E4HnmK495_I

Length: 42min 3sec (2523 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 07 2018