-Hi, I'm Rick Steves,
back with more of the best of Europe --
this time we're in France. That's the summit of
Mont Blanc; Chamonix is in the valley floor, the great city of Lyon
is about an hour that way. And we're going to see them all. Thanks for joining us. [ Theme music playing ] ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ France is a country
with lots of variety from grand cities
to awe-inspiring mountains. After exploring
the proud city of Lyon, which at least
in its mind rivals Paris, we head for Mont Blanc
with one of the classic alpine resorts,
Chamonix, as our springboard. We'll join the bustle
in a mountain resort, and chill in a rustic
alpine lodge. We'll dangle over
a sea of ice, sample a classic
long-distance hike, be dazzled by
neo-Byzantine art, celebrate
the summit of Europe, and make some high
altitude cheese. And this being France,
we'll dine well -- hearty in the mountains,
and fine in the city. France, the biggest country
in Western Europe, has glorious Alps in the east. We start in Lyon, then head to Chamonix
in the shadow of Mont Blanc. We'll ride the lift
up to the Aiguille du Midi, and then cross over
to the border of Italy. Then we hike
the Tour du Mont Blanc, a trail that circles
that iconic mountain. ♪♪ We're starting in, Lyon,
the gateway to the French Alps, straddling two mighty rivers
and on the border between the regions
of Provence and Burgundy, Lyon has been one of
the leading cities in France since Ancient Roman times. After Paris,
it's arguably the most historic and culturally important city
in the country. ♪♪ Despite being one of France's
largest cities, Lyon has an old center that
feels peaceful and manageable. Traffic noise is replaced
by pedestrian friendliness and lots of green transport. Along with its characteristic
Old World lanes, Leone has grand quarters
with 19th-century architecture that feels much like Paris. And it also has
a modern cultural center. To sort it out, it's always nice
to have a local connection, and I'm joined by my friend and fellow tour
guide Virginie Moré. So what's special about Lyon? -Well, Lyon might not be the
capital of France -- however, in Lyon, we're very proud
and we tend to say that we have more capital titles
than Paris has. -Such as?
-We were the first Roman ancient city of Gaul. -So the capital of Gaul.
-Capital of Gaul. Then we were the city
from where Christianity spread all over France. In the 16th century, we were the capital
of the Renaissance. During World War II, we were the capital
of the Résistance against the Nazi oppressor.
-So that's four capitals. -But let's not forget
the last one, which may be the most important. We are the capital of food --
way before Paris. -Food!
-Yes. -Bon appétit.
-Bon appétit. -A park showcases the city's
archeological treasures. Its impressive ancient
Roman theaters make the importance of Lyon
as a Gallo-Roman capital clear. You hear the term Gallo-Roman
a lot here in France. The Gauls were
the original French tribe. Two thousand years ago,
the Romans conquered them and they were assimilated
into the vast Roman Empire. In many ways,
the France we know today grew from that
Gallo-Roman civilization. -In the first century,
the Roman city of Lyon had a population
of 50,000 people -- which is four times
as big as Roman Paris. So the city was a critical hub
for transportation and it became
the economic, religious and administrative capital
of Roman Gaul. -And Lyon's grand churches
attest to the city's importance as the leading Christian center. In about the year 1870, the Prussians (from Germany)
were threatening the city. The local bishop vowed to build
a tribute to the Virgin Mary if the city was spared. It was,
and construction commenced. This church,
the Basilica of Notre Dame, was ready for worship just in time for the outbreak
of the next war, World War I. Inside, everything is covered
with dazzling neo-Byzantine art celebrating Mary -- it's all about "Notre Dame --"
"Our Lady." Amble slowly down
the center aisle. Scenes glittering on the walls illustrate a Virgin Mary-centric
sweep through history -- church history on one side,
French history on the other. These scenes, like about
everything else in the church, lead to the high altar where
Mary reigns as Queen of Heaven. An unforgettable way
to experience the church is to climb to its rooftop. With a guided tour, we enjoy a close-up look
at the architecture, a grand view of the city, and more reminders of how,
here in Lyon, the Virgin Mary is golden. The streets of Old Lyon
are lined with well-preserved
Renaissance buildings. The city grew rich
from its silk industry, trade fairs, and banking. -Lyon is
famous for its "traboules," which are hidden
covered passageway -- that enables you to cross
from one street to another, being protected. So, 500 years ago,
the noble families of Lyon used to live here --
if you look at this fine Renaissance staircase.
-That's beautiful! -There are more than 100
of those passageways in the Old Lyon. -So, Lyon
is honeycombed with these? -Exactly. And when silk was
the main industry in the city, they used to transport the silk
from one street to another -- being covered
from the weather. -Okay.
-And more recently during World War II, the Résistance fighters used
them to escape the Nazis. -That's right, because Lyon was
the leading Resistance city. This part of the old town is
Lyon's historic silk district. Lyon's silk industry was huge during
the Industrial Revolution. At its peak,
in the mid-1800s, it was churning
with 30,000 looms. The characteristic tall windows ensured that weavers
working the looms had enough light for
the longest workdays possible. And it was the Jacquard loom, invented here in Lyon
in the early 1800s, that revolutionized
this industry. This loom -- amazing technology
for the time -- automated
much of the process, allowing one person,
rather than an entire family, to weave the precious cloth. With the shuttle loaded
with colorful silk thread, the loom worker patiently
wove the prized fabric. This silk workshop welcomes
the public to drop in to see silk printing
and screen painting done in the traditional way. [ Banging ] Buckets of paint
are artfully mixed by hand. ♪♪ A vast collection of
100-year-old print blocks still provides the patterns
to decorate the cloth. Lyon helped establish
the industry of such printing
on silk and cotton. This technique made
beautiful silk less costly and therefore more accessible
to the masses. Upstairs, a boutique sells
hand-printed silk -- with a delightful array
of colorful ties and scarves. Back in the old town, Lyon's
characteristic "bouchons" are small restaurants
that evolved from the days when mothers would feed the silk
workers after a long day. True "bouchons" are simple
bistros serving traditional
dishes. Virginie is taking us
to a favorite of hers. With its tiny kitchen
and hardworking waitstaff, it entertains an appreciative
crowd of diners. And each dish is an adventure. Oh, that looks good. Wow! "Oui." "Merci." Tell me about your salad. -So, I have
a "salade du soleil" and it has the foie gras -- which -- the French love
their foie gras. - OK. -Some duck, because you get
duck here; duck there, and then a bit of salmon
just to feel a bit healthier. -I'm having one of my favorites:
escargot. -...and twist to get it out. -And pull --
and we have our little friend. "-Et voilà, l'escargot!" And then you enjoy it. -I think escargot deserves
a little red wine. -So here we have some
Beaujolais, which Beaujolais is considered
as a third river of Lyon. We have the Rhône, the Saône -- but the Beaujolais flows even
more into the city.
"Santé!" -Here's to river number three!
-River number three. -As I float downstream
in the Beaujolais, our main dishes arrive
including duck, the traditional quenelles --
or, fish dumplings -- and for me, tripe. I was a little nervous to order
tripe, but it's the local dish. -You're being very brave,
but it is a local dish. -And I knew if I didn't like it
I could have some of yours. -And you want some of mine?
-But -- no, because I like it. -You like it?
Very good. And I'm eating
what we call the quenelle, and this is a fish dumpling. And this is another specialty
of Lyon -- I would never order quenelle
anywhere else but in Lyon. -It's clear why Lyon is
the food capital of France. From Lyon, we drive east into
to the Alps -- into a valley dominated by
Mont Blanc, [western] Europe's tallest peak. The alpine resort of Chamonix,
nestled in the valley, is filled with enthusiasm
for the surrounding mountains. Tourists and avid climbers
alike mix it up in the streets. Statues celebrate famous
mountaineers with their sights set on Mont Blanc. These men were the first
to climb it, back in 1786. After that triumphant summit, mountain climbing became
fashionable, Chamonix boomed, and to this day it serves
the dreams of serious climbers and day hikers alike. For advice on finding
just the right hike, the helpful tourist office
can get you oriented. The staff knows
the weather patterns and can match your abilities with the most interesting hikes
in the area. -...walk from here, you're going
to across -- -We're heading for a station
12,600 feet high, just across from the summit
of Mont Blanc. From there, we hop on a gondola
and soar high over the glacier
to the border of Italy. The well-organized lift handles
huge crowds in peak season. We are here on a sunny Sunday
in August, and it's packed. Within minutes,
the powerful cable car sweeps us up 10,000 vertical feet from Chamonix to a pinnacle
called the Aiguille du Midi. From the top of the lift,
a tunnel leads into the rock where we make our final
ascent -- by elevator -- to a commanding perch. Before us spreads the Alps. You can almost reach out and pat
the head of Mont Blanc. At nearly 16,000 feet, Mont Blanc is the top of
[western] Europe. Up here, the air is thin. People are awestruck by
the grandeur of these mountains. And, back on the floor
of the valley, nearly two miles below,
is where we started: Chamonix. The Aiguille du Midi station
is a maze of tunnels and stairs leading to various
thin-air amusements and stunning viewpoints. ♪♪ This is one of the highest
lifts in Europe. Everything's breathtaking. At 12,000 feet, even the stairs
are breathtaking. For an easy thrill,
don't miss that glass box. You can stand in midair with
no risk...but plenty of fear. This ice tunnel --
like a gateway to oblivion -- is from where skiers
and climbers depart. From here, tourists get to see
why Chamonix attracts climbers
from all over the world. ♪♪ For your own private
glacial dream world, happen to the petite gondola
and head south to Helbronner Point,
which marks the border of Italy. Dangling silently
for 30 minutes, we glide over the glacier. From here, it's clear why
the glacier is called The Mer de Glace --
the "sea of ice." And below us, safely
navigating deadly crevasses, small groups
with mountain guides enjoy the challenge
of their choice. We're surrounded by
a majestic world of jagged rock needles -- called
"aiguilles" in French. ♪♪ The Giant's Tooth, not climbed
until 1882, was one of the last
to be conquered. The cable stretches three miles
with no solid pylon for support. It's as if we're floating. And here comes Italy. ♪♪ Helbronner Point is the
French/Italian border station. From this 11,000-foot-high
station, the lift descends into Italy's
remote valley of Aosta. Hikers from both countries
enjoy the sun and the views. ♪♪ Among countless peaks,
you can pick out the perky Matterhorn in the distance. And you can look down on
the classic hundred-mile trail that circles Mont Blanc -- part of which
we'll be hiking later. But today, we're heading back
to Chamonix. ♪♪ Chamonix hosted the first
Winter Olympics in 1924 -- and it still feels like
an international festival. Whether it's après-ski
or après-hike, the streets of Chamonix
are always lively. And with all this
strolling ambience, one of my favorite valley walks
is simply through the town. Chamonix was one of the original
alpine resorts. Until about the year 1800,
people didn't climb, or hike, or even paint mountains much.
Mountains were a pain. Then, in the 19th century,
the Romantic movement had people all across Europe
communing with nature. Eventually,
engineers constructed a state-of-the-art
array of trains and lifts to get the influx
of nature-hungry city folk high into the mountains
with ease. One of the first,
this two-car cog-wheel train -- inaugurated in 1989 --
transported turn-of-the-century
visitors to the edge of
the Mer de Glace glacier. And it's thrilling visitors
to this day. This train was built
over the objection of a couple hundred mule owners who figured it would put them
out of business. I'd say they were
probably right. The Mer de Glace is France's
largest glacier -- four miles long. In the 1600s, the glacier
extended much farther downhill, actually threatening
to block off the valley. But now, it's going
in the opposite direction: receding -- dramatically. When we travel, we see
and experience vivid examples of climate change. For me, this shrinking glacier
is one of the most poignant. When I first came here,
back in the '80s, the Mer de Glace was hundreds
of feet higher than it is today. From up above,
on the observation deck, it's hard to imagine that
just a few decades ago, the glacier was so much higher, nearly filling
this narrow valley. A cable car descends, taking visitors
closer to the glacier. From there, the hike down
to the receding "sea of ice" gets longer each year. Disturbing markers show
where the glacier was just a short time ago. A touristy tunnel
is carved deep into the ice. Hiking into it,
you find yourself in a cool, dripping world
of translucent blue. And, on an ice
carving meant to call attention to climate change,
tourists pose obliviously. I'm meeting up
with Cassandra Overby, author of
"Explore Europe on Foot" and an expert on Europe's
long-distance hikes. We'll join her
for a couple of days as she hikes the classic
Tour du Mont Blanc. Before any serious hike
in this region, it's smart to drop by the mountain guide center
in Chamonix to review plans and be sure
you know all the latest. You can get an individual
consultation to tailor your hike to your
time frame and ability. Europe has many iconic
long-distance hikes, and one of the most popular
is the Tour du Mont Blanc. While the Mont Blanc massif offers some of Europe's
most demanding mountaineering, this accommodating trail
is flexible -- enjoyed by hikers
with a wide range of abilities. It's like a huge park -- part in France, part in Italy,
part in Switzerland -- and it's busy
June through September. -Tour du Mont Blanc circumnavigates [western]
Europe's highest peak. So you go around it in about
10 days, each day about 10 miles
for a total of 100. Each day you see
a different valley, a different glacier, a different
view of the great mountain. -The Tour du Mont Blanc
is partly in wooded farmland and partly above the tree line
in the company of glaciers. The appealing thing about it
for American hikers is the delightful mix
of nature, history, and culture. The people you meet
on the trails come from many lands, and your days are filled
with cheery greetings. We're in France for this
section, so it's "bonjour." -"Bonjour." ♪♪ -Hikers here have
plenty of options. You can hike as little or as
much of the route as you like. But you must reserve
your beds well in advance. One thing I really appreciate:
You can hire a transfer service to take your luggage
to the next hut. That frees me up to hike with just the essentials
in a small day bag. And with Cassandra's help, I've chosen a route
I'm comfortable with. A typical day on the trail
is about 10 miles and around six hours of walking
-- and the route is never dull. This bridge actually dates back
to Roman times, and for much longer than that, its river has been carving
this gorge. -So one of the really
interesting parts about this route is that it used to be
an old Roman road. And there was a Celtic
settlement just down the way, so in addition to Romans
and Celts, these paths were also
used by shepherds taking their stock
to different fields. -Mountain huts --
called "refuges" -- are placed conveniently
a day's hike apart. Our first night is at
Nant Borrant, a mountain lodge
dating back to the 1800s. Huts are basic --
like hostels for adults. Hikers share coed dorms and follow
the mountain hut etiquette: Bring your own sleep sack,
no boots inside, and so on. Personal chores
are done upon arrival; then it's time to relax. While very simple, up here the little things
feel luxurious. A refreshing beer after a day
on the trail hits the spot. Dinner is rustic. There's no menu -- hikers enjoy
whatever's served. And here, way up
in the French Alps, I'm happy to consider
this "high cuisine." Soup with mountain cheese, tasty sausage
with potato "au gratin" , and, to compliment it all,
a hearty red wine from Savoy -- that's the region we're in. The culture of
the Tour du Mont Blanc is one of respect for nature,
a "joie de vivre," and an international
camaraderie. [ Indistinct chatter ] In the huts, it's early to bed
and early to rise. After a quick breakfast, we're on to the next leg
of our route. Since each day you try to cover
about 10 miles, it's important to eat
and stay hydrated as you go. Fortunately,
the Tour du Mont Blanc's enjoyable combination of
wilderness and commerce means the trail
is well-developed for the needs of hikers
along the way. And small shops are ideal
for assembling a rustic picnic. -Okay, "merci."
-Thanks again. A day's hike is punctuated by encounters
with the mountain culture, like a dairy farm making cheese pretty much the way
they have for generations. The farmer's focused on his work
and proud of his product. [ Farmer speaking French ] He treats us to a sample, Mmm! And we buy a nice slice
for the trail. Clearly, cheese is the energy
bar of the Tour du Mont Blanc. Tonight we're sleeping
in a bigger refuge. This one's a bit more remote,
high above the tree line, but with the same hearty food, simple dormitories
and great company. The next morning, the convenience of the baggage
transfer service is obvious, as bags are taken to a variety
of destinations, depending on each hiker's plan. As we head out on what will be
my last day on the trail, I realize that
after so many decades, I'm enjoying a brand-new
European experience -- an experience I wouldn't
have found without a great guide
like Cassandra. Cass, what are the most
important things people should know
when they're hiking like this? -You know, they're only really
three big things that you need to think about. The first one is: Be prepared
for time in the outdoors. So, at a minimum,
you need good shoes, some great layers, a solid
backpack, and a good map. Number two is be really
proactive about your comfort when you're on trail. So, eat before you're hungry,
drink before you're thirsty, and the moment that anything
feels uncomfortable -- if it's your backpack
or your shoes -- just stop and take care of it
before you go on. -And finally...
-Don't be intimidated by all of the gear, or the athletic
nature of walking. You don't need to be a hiker. You don't need to be
a super athlete to enjoy this kind of travel. -Because look at my gear and look at what shape I'm in -- and I'm having a blast. -Right.
It's not about exercise, this kind of thing is best
when you slow down. So, there's a hut around
every corner -- stop and take a coffee. Or in the afternoon,
have a victory beer if you had a big climb. When you find a stream,
soak your feet. That's really
how you enjoy this. -It's like you're on vacation. -It should be fun. ♪♪ -Cassandra's hiking the rest
of the route, but my luggage is back
in Chamonix -- and I will be too,
in time for dinner. I hope you've enjoyed our look
at this corner of France -- the great city of Lyon,
the mountain resort of Chamonix, and something new for me: a sample of a classic European
long-distance hike. Thanks for joining us.
I'm Rick Steves. Until next time,
keep on travelin'. -And it's time to... It's time to come... -Did you eat that one already?
I think so. [ Both laugh ] -Nobody home, nobody home there. ♪♪ I cannot eat. I love it! ♪♪ [ Laughs ] ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪
