-Hi, I'm Rick Steves. And right now, I'm the one of
the highest people in Germany, and there's lots more
Alpine thrills to come. Thanks for joining me as we
explore the best of the Alps. ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ I love how in Europe,
nature and culture mix it up. And here in the Alps, each
region has a distinct flavor. In this special, we'll celebrate
both nature and culture all across the Alps. In this "greatest hits" look
at Europe's Alps, we'll travel through
five different countries, each with its own unique
alpine culture. [ Folk music playing ] Along the way, we'll see some of
Europe's most iconic mountains, including the Matterhorn, and Mont Blanc,
the continent's highest point. And we'll conquer many
of these peaks, whether by foot, by train,
or a multitude of lifts, enjoying plenty
of thin-air thrills. ♪♪ We'll explore charming alpine
towns filling romantic valleys and hike to cliff-hanging
villages. And we'll savor hearty
and rustic alpine cuisine, edible traditions particularly
tasty at this altitude. And finally, we'll hike,
from easy day trips to a guided, classic,
long-distance tour. The Alps stretch across Europe
from Vienna to the French Riviera,
spanning many countries, and we'll scale peaks
in five of them -- Germany, Austria,
Italy, Switzerland, and France. We start with Germany,
Austria, and Italy. Our first summit is in Bavaria,
high atop the Zugspitze. From there, we travel
south into the Tirol, that historic region
which today is split between Austria and Italy. We visit Innsbruck
and its high country before crossing Brenner Pass
into Italy. From Kastelruth,
we explore the Dolomites. Across the Alps,
mountain resorts are investing
in their infrastructure. And here in Bavaria,
they've made it quick and easy to experience
their mightiest peak. ♪♪ The Zugspitze,
at nearly 10,000 feet, is Germany's highest mountain. And this cable car zips us
to the top in 10 minutes. The cable is about 3 miles long. It's supported
by only one pylon. And it stretches nearly
two miles to the summit with no support at all. ♪♪ While there are many
higher mountains in the Alps, the Zugspitze is unique. It stands alone, offering a view
of hundreds of peaks in Germany, Austria, Italy,
and even Switzerland. The mountain marks the border
between Germany and Austria. ♪♪ From here, the Alps arc like
a grand alpine symphony, from Vienna way in the east all the way
to the French Riviera, where these mountains finally
plunge into the Mediterranean. The Zugspitze summit
attracts huge crowds. As on so many European
mountain tops, you'll find restaurants, shops,
and well-entertained tourists. The Zugspitze is famed
for a cold and ghostly wind that can really howl
in the winter. This hikers' hut
has been perched here for well over a century. And thanks to these
beefy cables, it's never been
blown off the top. The summit, first climbed
in 1820, is marked by a golden cross, carried up here by
hardy villagers back in 1851. Today, with the help of iron
steps and cables, it's climbed, either from
the distant valley floor or from the adjacent
summit restaurant, by families, seniors,
and even travel writers. These days, escaping the tourist
crowds takes initiative -- and having a car can be helpful. We've crossed into Austria
and are ready to explore. Detailed maps show tiny roads
you might not realize exist. For a car-hiker's look
at life high in the Alps, we're switch-backing up
to a 5,000-foot-high perch. From the end of the road,
it's an easy 20-minute stroll to the Walderalm farm. ♪♪ It's actually a cluster of three
family-run dairy farms, with 70 cows
sharing their meadow amid staggering mountain views. These families have eked out
a living on these farms with remarkably little change
for generations. Hans, while well
into his 80s now, is still involved
in the family farm. Today, it's so hot, the cows
are hanging out in the barn. But there's still work
to be done. And with the chores finished, Hans enjoys whittling
in his spare time. His favorite subject? Cows, of course. [ Cattle lowing ] ♪♪ The traditional alpine farmhouse
was energy efficient, considering the technology
of the day. The family lived here,
on the middle floor. The cows got the ground floor. There's about 40 cows
just down there. They'd catch the body heat
of the cows, and that would help
to heat the family. And the hay loft
provided insulation and the assurance
there'd be enough food to get the cows
through the winter. And on this farm,
the system works to this day. These days, family farms
struggle to survive. Here in Europe, many manage only with the help
of government subsidies and by tapping
into the tourist trade. A steady stream of hikers
and bikers work hard to reach this idyllic spot. And Hans and his family
are happy to serve a hearty lunch
or a refreshing drink. ♪♪ From up here,
it's all downhill to Innsbruck. Filling the valley floor, it's one of the biggest cities
within the Alps. Innsbruck was an important
outpost of the Habsburg Empire. For five centuries, it was
their capital of the Tirol, with all the imperial
trappings: a grand church, a stately palace, and an extravagant balcony
fit for a king. This much-admired Golden Roof
was built for the Habsburg Emperor
Maximilian in 1494. The roof, with over 2,000
gilded copper tiles, remains the town's centerpiece. Innsbruck's historic center
is now a pedestrian zone. Looking past the crowds, it still feels like a once-grand
provincial capital. The city's folk museum is
a medieval Tirolean home show. Humble as that rural
farming community may have been, an artistic touch prevails. The plow seems
to honor hard work. One-legged milking stools
were finely carved. Cribs were decorated
with religious themes to be sure
God watched over the baby. ♪♪ Fantastical characters
warded off evil and even served
as human scarecrows. Merchants carrying their wares
on their backs would hike from village
to village. This one sold fine fabric. Intricately whittled
dioramas show off the region's tradition
of fine woodcarving. While this could be
any Tirolean village, upon closer look,
it's Bethlehem in the Alps. Bible stories
like this nativity scene made most sense to locals when presented in
a familiar hometown setting. Today, this manger scene gives
you a glimpse of village life in the Tirol
a couple centuries ago. Heading south, we cross
Europe's cultural and geographical divide, driving from the Germanic world,
over the Alps, into the Mediterranean world --
Italy. The Brenner Pass has been
the easiest way over the Alps since ancient Roman times. 2,000 years ago, Roman legions followed
this route, the Via Claudia, as they marched north
to conquer much of Europe. Sections of the ancient road
are still preserved. Deep grooves are reminders
of countless wagon wheels that followed this very route. Today, the Brenner Pass
is easier than ever to cross
as drivers arc gracefully along one of the engineering
wonders of Europe. From the top of
the Europabrücke, or Europe's Bridge, it feels like
just another freeway, but from the windy old road
at the valley floor it looks like
a mighty sculpture. The freeway zips drivers
from Innsbruck to the Italian border
in about 30 minutes. How about pasta for lunch? While the Autobahn in Austria
and Germany is toll-free, the Italian "autostrada"
has plenty of toll booths. But that's nothing new here. This crossing has long been
a gauntlet of toll booths and forts. Empires from Roman times
to World War II understood the strategic value
of Brenner Pass. This fortress,
called "Franzensfeste," was built in the 1830s. It was one of the mightiest
of its day. A huge investment by
the Habsburg emperor in Vienna, it was designed
to protect his empire from invasions from the south. We're following a trade route
dating back to the Middle Ages that connected
the Germanic world with cities
like Venice and Florence. Medieval traders were stopped
and forced to pay a toll by the lords
of castles like these, strategically situated in pairs
on either side of this valley. But we zoom by toll-free. And before we know it,
the roads get narrow and windy, and we're entering Italy's
dramatic limestone rooftop. The Dolomites, with their
distinct and jagged peaks, offer some of the best
alpine thrills in Europe. And these mighty mountains seem to protect
the traditional culture in the region's villages
and bucolic farmsteads. Historically, the Tirol
was its own state. Today, that region is divided:
part in Austria and part in Italy. The Italian part
is called "South Tirol." The region is a mix
of the two cultures and officially bilingual. While the traditional economy
is farming, today tourism is also big -- skiing in winter, hiking in summer. ♪♪ The Great Dolomite Road,
beautifully engineered, leads to the nearly
7,000-foot-high Sella Pass. ♪♪ It's great for a joy ride, and famously a big challenge
for bikers. Making it to the summit
is always a good excuse for a triumphant group photo. -[ Speaks foreign language ] -These bold limestone pillars
offer something for everybody. This is rock-climbing country -- thrilling, even for spectators. ♪♪ From the town of Ortisei,
we're catching the Seceda lift. All over this region, the lifts
do the climbing fast and easy, depositing hikers sweat-free
at thin-air trail heads. I love walking on a ridge. And with as many nationalities
enjoying this scene as there are
flowers in the fields, the blissful world up here
is one of pristine nature and happy hikers. These slopes are busy
with skiers in the winter. When planning, be aware that
in early spring and late fall -- that's between seasons here
in the Dolomites -- many lifts, huts,
and restaurants are shut down, and trails can be
covered in snow. We're here in summer,
and everything's wide open. Everywhere I look feels like
an alpine adventure awaiting my arrival. ♪♪ One thing I love about Europe: I've been coming here
all my life, and there's still places
to discover. The town of Kastelruth feels
like an alpine village rather than a ski resort. That's why I feature it
in my Italy guidebook as the ideal home base
for exploring the Dolomites. [ Bells tolling ] The hyperactive bell tower seems
to ring out the wisdom of honoring local traditions. Buildings are painted
with murals celebrating
the town's rich heritage. ♪♪ Clearly, fire has long been
a concern. Saint Florian,
the patron of firefighters, is shown all over town
putting out fires. The town cemetery is like
a lovingly tended garden. Entire families share
a common plot. ♪♪ Cobbled lanes lead
past friendly shops to the welcoming town square. And for generations,
the fountain, with its metal cup, has invited all
for a refreshing drink. The fountain also
watered horses, back when coaching inns
lined the square. ♪♪ Here in the region
of South Tirol, even though we're in Italy, locals speak German first
and Italian second. That's because for centuries
it was in the Austrian Habsburg realm
ruled from Vienna. After World War I, South Tirol
ended up as part of Italy. Mussolini did what he could
to Italianize the region. He even gave each city
a new Italian name. This town, Kastelruth,
became "Castelrotto." But the region's Germanic
heritage endures. You can see it
in its prosperity and in its lively folk culture. [ Folk music playing ] Amateur folk bands have fun
keeping that heritage alive. The instruments are traditional,
as are the costumes. The blue aprons come from a time
when humble workers needed to protect
their precious clothing. ♪♪ -[ Singing in foreign language ] -It's nice to think
that these boys are both modern and traditional, and their traditions are clearly surviving into
the next generation. -[ Singing in foreign language ] -Whoo! [ All continue singing ] ♪♪ ♪♪ [ People cheering ] ♪♪ ♪♪ -[ Whistles ] ♪♪ [ Song ends ] [ Cheers and applause ] -Kastelruth is the gateway to
Europe's largest alpine meadow, the Alpe di Siusi. As automobiles are
generally not allowed, visitors approach by cable car. Landing at Compatsch, the
commercial hub of the meadow, hikers can hop a lift
or a shuttle bus to the trailhead
of their choice. The Alpe di Siusi is
a natural preserve at the foot
of the mighty Sassolungo and Sasso Piatto peaks. The meadow is 3 miles wide
by 7 miles long, and seems to float
at 6,000 feet above sea level. It's dotted by farm huts
and wildflowers, surrounded by
dramatic Dolomite peaks, and crisscrossed
by meadow trails -- ideal for equestrians,
flower lovers, and walkers. It's also just right for someone
needing a lazy beer with a spectacular view. And completing this storybook
Dolomite setting, the spooky mount Schlern,
home of mythical witches, looks boldly into the haze
of the Italian peninsula. ♪♪ As we continue
our alpine adventure, we go from the dramatic Schlern to perhaps the most iconic peak
in all the Alps: the Matterhorn in Switzerland. Switzerland is small -- just
half the size of Kentucky. Most of the country
is rural and mountainous. We start in Zermatt
at the Matterhorn, take the
Glacier Express train ride, drop in on Appenzell, and finish
in the Berner Oberland, riding lifts to the Jungfrau
and the Schilthorn. Zermatt, at the foot
of the Matterhorn, was essentially built
for enjoying the Alps. It's hugely popular
with skiers in the winter and hikers in the summer. With its many lifts, it's a
springboard for countless trails and unforgettable viewpoints. The weather's great,
and we're hopping a train to one of the most
dramatic views in all the Alps. The Gornergrat cogwheel train
has been wowing visitors since 1898. The trip comes with
sweeping views, first of the town of Zermatt... then of the iconic peak that
draws so many to this region: the Matterhorn. The train climbs steeply
into the high country. It takes us to over 10,000 feet, where we reach
the end of the line. Across the tracks, an old hotel solidly caps
the Gornergrat ridge. Grand views stretch
in every direction. Stunning Matterhorn views
demand the attention of hikers, but there's more. Monte Rosa is actually
higher than the Matterhorn. In fact, at 15,200 feet, it's the highest point
in Switzerland. And a 1,000-foot sheer drop
below the platform stretches the mighty
Gorner Glacier. It seems
many of my favorite hikes start partway down my favorite
lifts or train rides. Hopping off this train
about midway, I'm in for a sensational
yet easy hike. Getting to these exciting spots
with so little work and so far from the crowds,
I feel like I'm cheating... and I love it. ♪♪ There's just something
about the Matterhorn, the most recognizable
mountain on the planet, that attracts people. It's a dangerous mountain
to climb. Each year, while several
thousand make it to the summit, about a dozen die trying. And with global warming, the permafrost that keeps it
solid is thawing, making falling rocks
a new hazard. Surrounding Zermatt, as if to enjoy views of
the Matterhorn from every angle, are dozens of lifts
and hundreds of miles of trails. As is the case
throughout the Alps, handy signposts
make it clear where you are, what's the altitude, and how long it takes
to hike to various points. ♪♪ Zermatt,
straddling its tiny river, is a small town of 6,000
with a big tourist industry. It has more hotel beds
than residents -- and they're often
completely full. Nearly everyone earns a living
one way or another from tourists, who flock here
for a peek at the peak. About two million visitors
a year arrive by train -- cars are not allowed. Electric carts weave quietly
through the pedestrians. The town is a collection of over 100 modern
chalet-style hotels with a well-organized
and groomed infrastructure for summer and winter sports. And this crowd-pleasing herd
of traditional Blackneck goats, which parades
through the town every day, has had it with selfies
and is headin' for the barn. [ Bells ringing, goat bleats ] If you explore a bit, you can discover pockets
of traditional charm. 200 years ago, Zermatt would
have looked more like this -- little more than a gathering
of humble log cabins. Zermatt works hard to keep
its visitors entertained, and tradition-loving locals
seem delighted to do just that. [ Group singing
in native language ] ♪♪ ♪♪ -[ Yodeling ] ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ [ Cheers and applause ] -From the town of Zermatt,
a mighty cable car takes us to the summit of a peak called
the "Little Matterhorn." Prices are steep, as the community has invested
hundreds of millions of dollars in their mountain lifts
in recent years. These lifts are absolutely
state-of-the-art, and just experiencing them
is worth the splurge. At 12,700 feet, this is the highest
cable-car station in Europe. While the view of the Matterhorn
from this angle is not the iconic
postcard profile, the views from this
observation deck are stunning. On a clear day,
the Alps fill the horizon with all their glory. ♪♪ The Zermatt train station
is busy each morning as travelers invest a day
of their vacation to take one of the most scenic
train rides in the world: riding the rails
across southern Switzerland on the Glacier Express. This journey, designed to maximize
your sightseeing thrills, features a masterpiece
of railway engineering. The Glacier Express train line
crosses 290 bridges and viaducts and goes through
90 tunnels in 8 hours as it connects two of
the leading alpine resorts -- Zermatt and Saint Moritz. Over a quarter million
Alp lovers ride this train each year. People kick back and just relax, enjoying big windows
for bigger views. The scenery unfolds
as the train carves its way through the Swiss landscape. In the glaciers high above are born some of Europe's
great rivers, which flow from here to both the
Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Now we're trading away some
of the staggering alpine peaks for an insight into the Swiss
and their heritage. This is Appenzell -- cowbell country
and storybook friendly. According to legend, the devil
was flying over these hills with a sack filled with houses. A sharp peak
tore a hole in the sack, and lots of chalets
sprinkled over the countryside. To this day, the farms and
hamlets remain widely scattered, and the canton of Appenzell remains one of Switzerland's
most traditional. The Swiss are famously
independent, and historically, the big threat
to their independence was the Habsburg Empire
from Austria. In the Middle Ages,
this region was fragmented into small "cantons," or states. In the 13th century, three of these cantons joined
together to fight the Habsburgs. By 1291, they established
their independence and Switzerland was born. This union eventually grew
to include 26 cantons and the country we know today. Switzerland is unique
among its European neighbors. It's not in the EU,
and, rather than the euro, it uses its own currency. This stubborn pride -- and the resulting survival
of local traditions -- is one thing
that makes Switzerland such a rewarding place to visit. [ Cowbells clacking ] You feel the strength
of that tradition here in the town of Appenzell. Amazingly, it wasn't until 1990 that Appenzell women
were given full voting rights. This has been the capital
of the canton for 400 years, and many of the buildings
date back to that time. [ Bicycle bell rings ] ♪♪ Switzerland's independence
distinguished it from European high culture. Back then, it took royalty,
or the Roman Catholic church to pay for big-time
cultural achievements. So instead of lots
of grand palaces and cathedrals, today travelers see
Swiss culture on a small and personal scale. Folk museums here
give an intimate peek into Appenzell's
humble rural culture, with rooms replicating
everyday life, from where they
raised their families to where they worked. In this 400-year-old building,
the ceilings are low and the floors are creaky
with centuries-old beams. Simple folk art shows
the importance of cows and the ritual
of taking the herd up to the high meadows
for the summer and back down for the winter. This room shows life as it was
for the herder in the high Alps, who spent summers alone,
milking cows and making cheese. These decorative cowbells
awaited the festive day when the herd would descend
from the high meadow. It was a world of wood. The woodshop is where milk pails would be fashioned
out of maple and fir, soaked in water
to be made pliable, assembled watertight
with no nails, and then artfully carved. The woodworker's bedroom reflects the pride
he had in his profession. He earned enough to afford
some fine painted furniture. This wardrobe dates from 1817. ♪♪ Whether traveling
by train or by car, mountainous Switzerland
has fine infrastructure, and you can get nearly
anywhere in the country in just a few hours. The Berner Oberland
is a particularly scenic region. Its Lauterbrunnen Valley, which stretches south
from the city of Interlaken, is a wonderful springboard for some of my favorite
Swiss Alp experiences. Lauterbrunnen Valley, with its vertical sides
and flat bottom, is U-shaped, a textbook example of
a glacier-shaped valley. While the main town,
also called Lauterbrunnen, sits on the valley floor, neighboring towns
hang on cliffs high above. "Lauterbrunnen" means
"loud waters" -- an apt name. Waterfalls plummet from cliffs
all along the valley. Staubbach Falls -- one of
the highest in Switzerland -- drops nearly 1,000 feet. ♪♪ The valley --
with its riverside trails, traditional farmhouses, and chorus of surrounding
peaks cheering you on -- is a magnet for nature lovers. Towering high above are the icy Jungfrau, Mönch,
and Eiger peaks, named for the legend of
the young maiden, "Jungfrau," being protected
by the monk, or "Mönch," from the mean ogre, or "Eiger." And perched on a saddle
between two of those mountains is the Jungfraujoch station, and that's where we're going
by train. From the valley floor,
a cogwheel train takes tourists
and mountaineers alike on this ear-popping journey. As we gradually climb,
the views continually unfold. ♪♪ ♪♪ [ Cow moos ] Eventually, we arrive
at Kleine Scheidegg, a rail junction
at the base of the peaks. For well over a century, this
has been the jumping-off point for rock climbers
attempting to scale the foreboding
north face of the Eiger. Kleine Scheidegg
has souvenir shops, hearty food for hikers, and rustic
19th-century hotels -- a reminder that tourism
is nothing new here. With the craze
for social media these days and with millions of people from countries
with emerging economies now able to afford
that dream trip to Europe, famous destinations like this
can be really crowded. Do what you can
to minimize the crowds. Arrive early, arrive late --
it really helps. Continuing our journey to
Europe's highest train station, the ingenuity
of Swiss engineers is apparent as we climb the railway
they built back in 1912. Amazingly, our train tunnels
through the Eiger on our climb all the way
to the Jungfraujoch. Think about it:
the Swiss drilled this tunnel through solid rock. It's four miles long. This train is smooth, and they did it 100 years ago. Why? To show off their engineering
skills and to celebrate nature. Halfway up, the train stops
at panorama windows. While expert rock climbers
can exit here into an unforgiving world
of ice and air, sightseers get their thrills by simply marveling
at the icy views. [ Train rumbling ] Continuing up the tunnel, from here, the train's cogwheels
earn their keep. You emerge at 11,000 feet --
the Jungfraujoch. Spectacular views
of majestic peaks stretch as far as you can see. Cradled among these giants, you understand the timeless
allure of the Swiss Alps. The Jungfraujoch is like
a small resort perched on a mountain ridge. From the highest viewing point,
you can see the Aletsch Glacier, which stretches about
10 miles to the south. While shrinking with
the warming global climate, it's still the longest
glacier in the Alps. The air is thin. People are in giddy moods. The station is a maze of shops,
restaurants, and amusements. A tunnel is actually carved
through the glacier to a cavern of ice sculptures --
an especially big hit for visitors from lands
where ice is a rarity. Outside on the glacier,
people enjoy the scene. From here,
many venture even higher as a snowy trail leads
to more mountain thrills. But for me, I'll call this good and savor the sense
of accomplishment I get when climbing to
11,370 feet before lunch. ♪♪ The Berner Oberland
has something for everybody. Part of the fun --
and much of the expense -- of enjoying the Alps
is riding the various lifts. Funiculars let hikers
gain altitude quick and easy. This lift actually lets visitors
ride on the rooftop -- a great way
to more fully appreciate the staggering beauty
of the region. And once again, it's fun
to leave the crowds by getting off
at an intermediary station and taking a hike. There's a special camaraderie with people who actually
get out and hike. And within moments, you're
sharing the experience with fellow hikers and enjoying
the Alps in a way so many miss. Towns like Mürren were developed to accommodate
nature-loving tourists. They cater to your every need. You can stroll through
traffic-free centers, and towns are springboards
for a popular option: the electric bike. While service roads
in the high country may be closed
to regular traffic, e-bikes are more than welcome, and they make you look fitter
than you actually are. Remote towns may be beyond
the reach of your car, but all are accessible
by various lifts. One of my favorites is the
idyllic village of Gimmelwald. The village,
established in the Middle Ages precariously on the edge
of a cliff, was one of the poorest
places in Switzerland. Gimmelwald works together
like a big family. In fact, most of the
hundred or so residents here share one of two last names:
"von Allmen" or "Feuz." My friend Olle,
long the village schoolteacher, enjoys showing me around. This is the oldest house,
from 1658. And the woodwork
is generally unpainted -- just bleached in the sun. Originally hay up top
and cows below. For generations,
families have lovingly tended their vegetable gardens. They still are relied on
to put food on the table, and this one comes
with an artistic side. Retaining their
traditional ways, farmers here make ends meet only with help
from Swiss government subsidies. They supplement that by working
the ski lifts in the winter. Modern tourism has contributed
to the local economy as well. Pension Gimmelwald's
terraced restaurant is filled with happy hikers
at dinnertime, enthused by the memories
they earned with today's hike. I've been coming
to Gimmelwald all my life and it never gets old. With the world changing
as fast as it is, I find it refreshing to know
that there are places like this that still embrace
their traditions. Dairy is the traditional
industry here. Collecting grass to get
their cows through the winter on these steep slopes
is labor intensive. Each family fills silos with enough to feed
a dozen or so cows. But we're here in the summer,
and the cows are in the high alp enjoying a diet
of fresh grass and flowers. From their milk, some of the
most prized cheese in the world is still made
in the traditional way. We're joining a small tour group organized by
the village tourist office. Of the countless visitors
in this valley, these travelers
took the initiative to enjoy this intimate peek
at local culture in action. Once the milk is heated
to just the right temperature, the cheesemaker, using his teeth
as well as his hands, masterfully scoops about
ten kilos of curds from the bottom of the cauldron. He then plops
the sopping cheesecloth into a circular mold. It's quickly pressed to remove as much of the liquid,
or "whey," as possible. [ Cheesemaker speaking
indistinctly ] As the moisture is removed
and the aging process begins, a wheel of wet curds
becomes a wheel of alp cheese, frequently brushed with brine
and stored flat on shelves in a shed like this one
for up to two years. [ Alphorn blowing ] In the high country,
I also enjoy a chance to hear traditional music -- and up here,
along with yodeling, that means the long,
legato tones of the alphorn. The alphorn has a range
of nearly 3 octaves. But with no valves, it's limited
to the same notes as a bugle. Used throughout the Alps, this horn has played a role
in this culture for 500 years: to call cows from pasture
to the barn for milking, as a way for herdsmen
in the high meadows to communicate with people
in the valley below, and even as a call to prayer
through remote valleys. [ Alphorn continues blowing ] ♪♪ Oh, and we've got time
for one more Swiss summit. High above this meadow, a peak called the "Schilthorn"
emerges from the clouds. And, in good Swiss fashion, a modern cable car,
the Schilthornbahn, zips visitors
effortlessly to its summit. In the Alps, while the valleys
may be blanketed in clouds, the peaks can be
brilliantly sunny. Get an early start -- the peaks are often clear in
the morning and then cloud up. The 10,000-foot summit
of the Schilthorn awaits skiers, hikers,
and sightseers -- both winter and summer. This station, which capitalizes on its role
in a James Bond film, awaits with
a revolving restaurant -- perfect for spies
nursing their 007 martinis. Meanwhile
on the panorama terrace, families pick out the peaks while others thrill at
360 degrees of alpine splendor. For me, the majesty
of the mountains is easiest to appreciate
on my own private perch. As always, try to make a point
to get away from the crowds -- to be alone to savor
an unforgettable moment. Continuing with our
high-altitude explorations, we move onto France to celebrate the summit
of Europe, Mont Blanc. France, the biggest country
in Western Europe, has glorious Alps in the east. We start in Chamonix,
in the shadow of Mont Blanc. We ride the lift
up to the Aiguille du Midi, and then cross over
the border to Italy. Then we hike
the Tour du Mont Blanc, a trail that circles
that iconic mountain. Driving into France's Alps, a scenic valley leads toward
Mont Blanc, the tallest peak in Europe. The alpine resort of Chamonix,
nestled in the valley, is filled with enthusiasm
for the surrounding mountains. Tourists and avid climbers
alike mix it up in the streets. Statues celebrate
famous mountaineers with their sights
set on Mont Blanc. These men were the first
to climb it back in 1786. After that triumphant summit, mountain climbing became
fashionable, Chamonix boomed, and to this day it serves
the dreams of serious climbers and day hikers alike. For advice on finding
just the right hike, the helpful tourist office
can get you oriented. The staff knows
the weather patterns and can match your abilities with the most interesting hikes
in the area. -...walk from here,
you go across -- -We're heading for a station
12,600 feet high, just across from the summit
of Mont Blanc. From there, we hop on a gondola
and soar high over the glacier
to the border of Italy. The well-organized lift handles
huge crowds in peak season. We are here on a sunny Sunday
in August, and it's packed. Within minutes,
the powerful cable car sweeps us up
10,000 vertical feet from Chamonix to a pinnacle
called the Aiguille du Midi. From the top of the lift,
a tunnel leads into the rock where we make our final ascent
by elevator to a commanding perch. Before us spread the Alps. You can almost reach out
and pat the head of Mont Blanc. At nearly 16,000 feet, Mont Blanc is the top of Europe. Up here, the air is thin. People are awestruck by
the grandeur of these mountains. And back on the floor
of the valley, nearly two miles below,
is where we started -- Chamonix. The Aiguille du Midi station
is a maze of tunnels and stairs leading to various
thin-air amusements and stunning viewpoints. ♪♪ This is one of the highest
lifts in Europe. Everything's breathtaking. At 12,000 feet, even the stairs
are breathtaking. For an easy thrill,
don't miss the glass box. You can stand in midair with no risk...but plenty of fear. This ice tunnel,
like a gateway to oblivion, is from where skiers
and climbers depart. From here, tourists get to see
why Chamonix attracts climbers
from all over the world. ♪♪ For your own private
glacial dream world, hop onto the petite gondola
and head south to Helbronner Point,
which marks the border of Italy. Dangling silently
for 30 minutes, we glide over the glacier. From here, it's clear
why the glacier is called the Mer de Glace -- "sea of ice." And below us, safely
navigating deadly crevasses, small groups
with mountain guides enjoy the challenge
of their choice. We're surrounded
by a majestic world of jagged rock needles,
called "aiguille" in French. ♪♪ The Giant's Tooth,
not climbed until 1882, was one of the last
to be conquered. The cable stretches three miles
with no solid pylon for support. It's as if we're floating. And here comes Italy. ♪♪ Helbronner Point is the
French/Italian border station. From this 11,000-foot-high
station, the lift descends into Italy's
remote Valley of Aosta. Hikers from both countries
enjoy the sun and the views. ♪♪ Among countless peaks,
you can pick out the perky Matterhorn
in the distance, and you can look down on
the classic hundred-mile trail that circles Mont Blanc -- part of which
we'll be hiking later. But today, we're heading back
to Chamonix. ♪♪ Chamonix hosted the first
Winter Olympics in 1924, and it still feels like
an international festival. Whether it's après-ski
or après-hike, the streets of Chamonix
are always lively. And with all this
strolling ambience, one of my favorite valley walks
is simply through the town. Chamonix was one of the original
alpine resorts. Until about the year 1800,
people didn't climb or hike or even paint mountains much.
Mountains were a pain. Then in the 19th century,
the Romantic movement had people all across Europe
communing with nature. Eventually,
engineers constructed a state-of-the-art
array of trains and lifts to get the influx
of nature-hungry city folk high into the mountains
with ease. One of the first,
this two-car cogwheel train, inaugurated in 1909, transported
turn-of-the-century visitors to the edge of
the Mer de Glace glacier, and it's thrilling visitors
to this day. This train was built
over the objection of a couple hundred mule owners who figured it would put them
out of business. I'd say they were
probably right. The Mer de Glace is France's
largest glacier, four miles long. In the 1600s, the glacier
extended much farther downhill, actually threatening
to block off the valley. But now it's going
in the opposite direction: receding -- dramatically. When we travel, we see
and experience vivid examples of climate change. For me, this shrinking glacier
is one of the most poignant. When I first came here
back in the '80s, the Mer de Glace was hundreds
of feet higher than it is today. From up above,
on the observation deck, it's hard to imagine that,
just a few decades ago, the glacier was so much higher, nearly filling
this narrow valley. A cable car descends, taking visitors
closer to the glacier. From there, the hike down
to the receding "sea of ice" gets longer each year. Disturbing markers
show where the glacier was just a short time ago. A touristic tunnel
is carved deep into the ice. Hiking into it,
you find yourself in a cool, dripping world
of translucent blue. And on an ice carving
meant to call attention to climate change,
tourists pose obliviously. I'm meeting up
with Cassandra Overby, author of
"Explore Europe on Foot," and an expert on Europe's
long-distance hikes. We'll join her for a couple days as she hikes the classic
Tour du Mont Blanc. Before any serious hike
in this region, it's smart to drop by the mountain guides center
in Chamonix to review plans and be sure
you know all the latest. You can get an individual
consultation to tailor your hike to your time frame and ability. Europe has many iconic
long-distance hikes, and one of the most popular
is the Tour du Mont Blanc. While the Mont Blanc massif offers some of Europe's
most demanding mountaineering, this accommodating trail
is flexible, enjoyed by hikers
with a wide range of abilities. It's like a huge park, part in France, part in Italy,
part in Switzerland, and it's busy
June through September. -Tour du Mont Blanc circumnavigates
Europe's highest peak. So you go around it
in about 10 days, each day about 10 miles,
for a total of 100. Each day you see
a different valley, a different glacier, a different
view of the great mountain. -The Tour du Mont Blanc
is part in wooded farmland and part above the tree line
in the company of glaciers. The appealing thing about it
for American hikers is the delightful mix
of nature, history, and culture. The people you meet
on the trails come from many lands, and your days are filled
with cheery greetings. We're in France for this
section, so it's "bonjour." -"Bonjour." ♪♪ -Hikers here have
plenty of options -- You can hike as little or as
much of the route as you like, but you must reserve
your beds well in advance. One thing I really appreciate:
You can hire a transfer service to take your luggage
to the next hut. That frees me up to hike with just the essentials
in a small day bag. And with Cassandra's help, I've chosen a route
I'm comfortable with. A typical day on the trail
is about 10 miles and around six hours of walking,
and the route is never dull. This bridge actually dates back
to Roman times, and for much longer than that, its river has been carving
this gorge. -So, one of the really
interesting parts about this route is that it
used to be an old Roman road. And there was a Celtic
settlement just down the way. So in addition to Romans
and Celts, these paths were also
used by shepherds taking their stock
to different fields. -Mountain huts, called "refuges," are placed, conveniently,
a day's hike apart. Our first night
is at Nant Borrant, a mountain lodge
dating back to the 1800s. Huts are basic --
like hostels for adults. Hikers share co-ed dorms and follow
the mountain hut etiquette: Bring your own sleep sack,
no boots inside, and so on. Personal chores
are done upon arrival. Then it's time to relax. While very simple, up here the little things
feel luxurious. A refreshing beer after a day
on the trail hits the spot. Dinner is rustic. There's no menu.
Hikers enjoy whatever is served. And here, way up
in the French Alps, I'm happy to consider this
"high cuisine." Soup with mountain cheese, tasty sausage
with potato "au gratin." And to complement it all,
a hearty red wine from Savoy -- that's the region we're in. The culture of
the Tour du Mont Blanc is one of respect for nature,
a "joie de vivre," and an international
camaraderie. [ Indistinct conversations ] In the huts, it's early to bed
and early to rise. After a quick breakfast, we're onto the next leg
of our route. Since each day you try to cover
about 10 miles, it's important to eat
and stay hydrated as you go. Fortunately,
the Tour du Mont Blanc's enjoyable combination
of wilderness and commerce means the trail
is well-developed for the needs of hikers
along the way. And small shops are ideal
for assembling a rustic picnic. -Okay, "merci."
-Thanks again. A day's hike is punctuated by encounters
with the mountain culture, like a dairy farm making cheese pretty much the way they have
for generations. The farmer's focused on his work
and proud of his product. [ Farmer speaking French ] He treats us to a sample. Mmm! And we buy a nice slice
for the trail. Clearly, cheese is the energy
bar of the Tour du Mont Blanc. Tonight we're sleeping
in a bigger refuge. This one's a bit more remote,
high above the tree line, but with the same hearty food, simple dormitories,
and great company. The next morning, the convenience of the baggage-
transfer service is obvious, as bags are taken
to a variety of destinations, depending on each hiker's plan. As we head out on what will be
my last day on the trail, I realize that
after so many decades, I'm enjoying a brand-new
European experience -- an experience
I wouldn't have found without a great guide
like Cassandra. Cass, what are the most
important things people should know
when they're hiking like this? -You know, there are only really
three big things that you need to think about. The first one is: Be prepared
for time in the outdoors. So at a minimum,
you need good shoes, some great layers, a solid
backpack, and a good map. Number two is: Be really
proactive about your comfort when you're on trail. So eat before you're hungry,
drink before you're thirsty, and the moment that anything
feels uncomfortable -- if it's your backpack
or your shoes -- just stop and take care of it
before you go on. -And finally?
-Don't be intimidated by all of the gear or
the athletic nature of walking. You don't need to be a hiker. You don't need to be
a super athlete to enjoy this kind of travel. -Because look at my gear, and look at what shape I'm in, and I'm having a blast. -Right. It's not about exercise. This kind of thing is best
when you slow down. So, there's a hut around
every corner -- stop and take a coffee. Or in the afternoon,
have a victory beer if you had a big climb. When you find a stream,
soak your feet. That's really
how you enjoy this. -It's like you're on vacation. -It should be fun. ♪♪ -Cassandra's hiking
the rest of the route. But my luggage
is back in Chamonix -- and I will be, too,
in time for dinner. I hope you've enjoyed our look
at the best of the Alps, where nature is wild,
yet still so accessible. Thanks for joining us.
I'm Rick Steves. Until next time,
keep on travelin'. -[ Laughing ] -[ Yodeling ] ♪♪ -Embrace their traditions --
[ Cellphone chimes ] ...it makes me want to
answer the phone. -Oh! -If anyone needs a new tissue -- -Nothing. Yeah, you shouldn't. You shouldn't make little -- ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪
