HI, I'M RICK STEVES, EXPLORING
MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE. THIS TIME, WE'RE HIGH
IN THE SWISS ALPS. FROM THE LUSH VALLEY FLOORS
TO THE TIPS OF THESE PEAKS, WE'LL SHARE THE STORY
OF THE SWISS PEOPLE AND THEIR BREATHTAKING LAND. RATHER THAN TACKLING
A CHECKLIST OF FAMOUS SWISS
MOUNTAINS AND RESORTS, I LIKE TO CHOOSE
ONE AREA AND SAVOR IT. THIS TIME IT'S A REGION
CALLED THE BERNER OBERLAND. WE'LL SEE LOTS OF AWESOME PEAKS AND WE'LL ALSO GET CLOSE
TO THE SWISS CULTURE IN A LAND WHERE TRADITION MEETS
THE MODERN WORLD AND SURVIVES. <i> WE'LL SEE GREAT PEAKS, BUT
THIS ISN'T JUST ANY ALPS SHOW.</i> <i> WE'LL MAKE CHEESE
THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY,</i> <i> ENJOY SOME TRADITIONAL MUSIC,</i> <i> MEET CHILDREN
IN A ONE-ROOM SCHOOLHOUSE, </i> <i> LEARN SOME SWISS
MILITARY SECRETS,</i> <i> PET COWS IN A TRAFFIC-FREE
ALPINE VILLAGE,</i> <i> FEEL THE RAW POWER OF NATURE
HARD AT WORK IN THESE MOUNTAINS</i> <i>AND CLIMB TO A SPECTACULAR VIEW
FROM ATOP THE ALPS.</i> <i> SWITZERLAND IS EMBEDDED
IN THE CENTER OF EUROPE,</i> <i> AND ITS MOST
MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY.</i> <i> WE'LL EXPLORE THE THRILLING
BEST OF THE ALPS</i> <i> IN A REGION CALLED
THE BERNER OBERLAND.</i> <i> FROM INTERLAKEN,
TWO VALLEYS LEAD SOUTH:</i> <i> TOURISTY GRINDELWALD
AND A QUIETER LAUTERBRUNNEN.</i> <i> FROM OUR VILLAGE HOME BASE
OF GIMMELWALD,</i> <i> WE'LL RIDE LIFTS</i> <i> UP TO THE SCHILTHORN
AND JUNGFRAU.</i> FOR THE SWISS, THE ALPS
ARE A MARVELOUS PLAYGROUND, WINTER OR SUMMER, RAIN OR SHINE. AND THEY'VE MADE MANY
OF THE MOST EXCITING SPOTS EASILY ACCESSIBLE
BY TRAIN OR LIFT. FOR THIS EPISODE,
WE PARK OUR CAR ONCE AND RELY ENTIRELY
ON PUBLIC TRANSIT, LIKE THIS. <i> PART OF THE FUN
AND MUCH OF THE EXPENSE</i> <i> OF ENJOYING THE ALPS
IS RIDING THE VARIOUS LIFTS.</i> <i> WHETHER YOU'RE RIDING
COGWHEEL TRAINS,</i> <i> STEEP FUNICULARS</i> <i> OR GONDOLAS,</i> <i> THE VIEWS ARE BREATHTAKING.</i> <i> THIS GONDOLA DROPS US
IN THE TRAFFIC-FREE VILLAGE</i> <i> OF GIMMELWALD.</i> <i> THIS TINY INTERSECTION
IS THE HEART OF DOWNTOWN.</i> <i> ON A SUNNY DAY,
YOU UNDERSTAND WHY PEOPLE SAY,</i> <i> "IF HEAVEN ISN'T WHAT
IT'S CRACKED UP TO BE,</i> <i> SEND ME BACK TO GIMMELWALD."</i> <i> THE VILLAGE, ESTABLISHED
IN THE MIDDLE AGES, </i> <i> INCREDIBLY ON THE EDGE
OF THIS CLIFF,</i> <i> WAS ONE OF THE POOREST
PLACES IN SWITZERLAND.</i> <i> ITS TRADITIONAL ECONOMY
WAS STUCK IN THE HAY.</i> <i> ITS FARMERS MAKE ENDS MEET</i> <i> ONLY WITH HELP
FROM SWISS GOVERNMENT SUBSIDIES</i> <i> AND BY WORKING THE SKI LIFTS
IN THE WINTER.</i> <i> MODERN TOURISM HAS PERKED UP
THE LOCAL ECONOMY AS WELL.</i> <i> THE VILLAGE OPERATES
LIKE A BIG FAMILY.</i> <i> IN FACT, MOST
OF THE 120 RESIDENTS</i> <i> HAVE THE SAME LAST NAME:
von ALLMEN.</i> <i> COLLECTING GRASS TO GET
THEIR COWS THROUGH THE WINTER</i> <i> IN THIS RUGGED TERRAIN
IS LABOR-INTENSIVE.</i> <i> EACH HARDWORKING FAMILY</i> <i> HARVESTS ONLY ENOUGH
TO FEED 15 OR 20 COWS.</i> <i> LIFE CAN BE TOUGH, BUT THEY'D
HAVE IT NO OTHER WAY.</i> <i> A GENERATION AGO, DEVELOPERS
WANTED TO TURN GIMMELWALD</i> <i> INTO A BIG RESORT TOWN.</i> <i> THE VILLAGERS
THWARTED THOSE PLANS</i> <i> BY GETTING THE ENTIRE TOWN
DECLARED AN AVALANCHE ZONE.</i> FROM THAT POINT ON,
NO ONE COULD GET PERMISSION TO BUILD ANYTHING BIGGER
THAN A HOUSE OR A BARN. UNLIKE NEIGHBORING RESORT TOWNS, GIMMELWALD REMAINS A VITAL
COMMUNITY OF FAMILIES, LOCALLY OWNED
AND PROUD OF IT. <i> MOST OF THE BUILDINGS
HOUSE TWO FAMILIES</i> <i> AND ARE DIVIDED VERTICALLY
RIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE.</i> <i> THE WRITING ON THE POST OFFICE
BUILDING IS A FOLKSY BLESSING.</i> <i> "SUMMER BRINGS GREEN,
WINTER BRINGS SNOW.</i> <i> "THE SUN GREETS THE DAY,
THE STARS GREET THE NIGHT.</i> <i>"THIS HOUSE WILL KEEP YOU WARM.</i> <i> MAY GOD GIVE US
HIS BLESSINGS."</i> <i> THE OLDEST BUILDING IN TOWN
DATES FROM 1658.</i> <i> STUDY THE LOG CABIN
CONSTRUCTION.</i> <i> MANY ARE BUILT WITHOUT NAILS.</i> <i> GIMMELWALD HAS A STRICT
BUILDING CODE.</i> <i>FOR INSTANCE, SHUTTERS CAN ONLY
BE NATURAL, GREEN, OR WHITE.</i> <i> THE STONES ON THE HUTS
ARE THERE</i> <i> TO KEEP THE SHINGLES
FROM BLOWING OFF</i> <i> DURING STRONG WINTER STORMS.</i> <i> FARMERS HANG BIG CEREMONIAL
COWBELLS UNDER THEIR EAVES,</i> <i> WAITING FOR THAT
FESTIVE DAY IN THE SPRING</i> <i> WHEN THE COWS MOVE FROM THEIR
BARNS UP TO THE HIGH MEADOWS.</i> GIMMELWALD'S ACCOMMODATIONS
ARE RUSTIC. A COUPLE SIMPLE PENSIONS,
B&Bs, A HOSTEL, EVEN A BARN THE HIKERS SLEEP IN WHEN THE COWS ARE
IN THE HIGH MEADOWS. IF YOU WANT A FANCY BED, YOU'RE
BETTER OFF IN A NEARBY RESORT. <i> IT'S FUN TO BUY PRODUCE
DIRECTLY FROM GIMMELWALD'S</i> <i> ENTREPRENEURIAL
FARMERS LIKE ESTHER.</i> <i> Guten tag.</i> Esther:<i>
Guten tag.</i> Rick:
DO YOU SPEAK ENGLISH? YES, A LITTLE BIT.
CAN I HELP? WHAT DO YOU HAVE
FOR SALE HERE? WE HAVE HERE ALP CHEESE,
MOUNTAIN CHEESE. WE HAVE FROM OUR COWS
THE BEEF JERKY AND SALAMI SAUSAGE THAT WE MAKE
NOT HERE IN THE HOUSE. THE COGOES
TO INTERLOCKEN AND THE SAUSAGE
AND THE DRIED MEAT COME BACK. AND THE SAUSAGE HAVE 28 PERCENT
PORK BUT ALL IS ORGANIC. WE HAVE AN ORGANIC FARM. OKAY. HOW MUCH IS
A BEEF JERKY? IT'S FIVE FRANCS. ITS 100-GRAM SLICE. BEAUTIFUL.
I'LL HAVE THAT. THANK YOU
VERY MUCH. <i> Danke sehr.</i> BYE, HAVE A NICE DAY. <i> THE VILLAGE'S BIGGEST BUILDING
IS THE SCHOOLHOUSE.</i> <i> AND THE TEACHER,
OLLIE EGGIMANN,</i> <i> IS GIVING US A LOOK
AT ALPINE EDUCATION.</i> OKAY, RICK,
COME IN. THIS IS OUR
CLASSROOM HERE. HERE WE HAVE 70 CHILDREN WE
TEACH FROM 7 TO 16 YEARS OLD, SO WE TEACH THEM ALL TOGETHER
IN ONE CLASSROOM. AND MY WIFE AND ME, WE SHARE THE ONLY
TEACHING POSITION IN TOWN. [ bell rings ] [ students shouting ] <i> EACH DAY STARTS WITH SINGING.</i> <i> THEN THE STUDENTS SETTLE
INTO THEIR RESPECTIVE STUDIES.</i> <i> IT'S LITTLE NICOLE'S
FIRST WEEK,</i> <i> SO SHE'S GETTING
SOME EXTRA ATTENTION.</i> <i> Ein, zwei, drei...</i> WELL, YOU KNOW,
IT'S SOMEHOW LIKE A FAMILY WHERE WE HAVE CHILDREN THAT ARE
7 YEAR OLD AND 16 YEARS OLD. IF WE GO SKIING OR HIKING,
THE OLDER ONES, WITHOUT EVEN DEBATE, ASK FOR IF THEY WILL CARRY THEIR
HEAVY LUGGAGE FOR THEM. SO IT'S REALLY -- THEY TAKE
CARE OF EACH OTHER. <i> OLLIE AND HIS WIFE, MARIA,</i> <i> ARE ENTHUSIASTIC
ABOUT THE MODERN WORLD,</i> <i> AND THEY ALSO RESPECT</i> <i> THE DEEP-SEATED
LOCAL TRADITIONS.</i> <i> THE STUDENTS ENJOY THE BEST
OF BOTH WORLDS.</i> YOU KNOW, EDUCATION SHOULD
PREPARE CHILDREN FOR THEIR LIFE AND WHAT IS IMPORTANT. HERE IT'S IMPORTANT THAT THEY KNOW TO USE
THE FACILITIES WE HAVE, LIKE COMPUTERS,
BUT MORE IMPORTANT, THEY HAVE TO LEARN
HOW TO WRITE, HOW TO READ, TO UNDERSTAND WHAT THEY SEE, THEY HAVE TO LEARN
SEVERAL LANGUAGES, AT LEAST ENGLISH, FRENCH,
GERMAN, AND THESE ARE THE BASICS
OF AN EDUCATION, AND THESE WILL NEVER CHANGE. [ siren ] <i> VILLAGERS ARE EXPECTED
TO SERVE AS FIREFIGHTERS.</i> <i> AND EVERY FEW MONTHS,
RAIN OR SHINE,</i> <i> THEY SUIT UP
AND HAVE A DRILL.</i> <i> WITH THE FIERCE ALP WINDS,
MANY OF THESE ALL-WOOD TOWNS</i> <i> HAVE BURNT ENTIRELY
TO THE GROUND.</i> <i> THESE REMOTE VILLAGES
HAVE NO OPTION</i> <i> BUT TO PROVIDE
THEIR OWN FIREFIGHTERS.</i> <i> AND SINCE MANY OF THE MEN
ARE OUT IN THE FIELDS,</i> <i> STAY-AT-HOME MOMS
PLAY A KEY ROLE.</i> <i> GIMMELWALD HAS NEVER
HAD A MAJOR FIRE.</i> <i> I WAS TOLD THAT THE VILLAGERS,</i> <i> WELL AWARE OF THE PROFICIENCY
OF THEIR FIREFIGHTING TEAM,</i> <i> ARE ESPECIALLY
CAREFUL WITH FIRES.</i> <i> IN THE ALPS,
GET AN EARLY START.</i> <i> THE PEAKS ARE OFTEN CLEAR IN
THE MORNING AND THEN CLOUD UP.</i> <i> WE'RE RIDING THE SHILTHORNBAHN
TO THE TOP OF THE SHILTHORN.</i> <i> THE SHILTHORNBAHN CARRIES
SKIERS, HIKERS, AND SIGHTSEERS,</i> <i> QUICK AND EASY, TO THE
TEN-THOUSAND-FOOT SUMMIT</i> <i> OF THE SHILTHORN,</i> <i> WHERE THE PIZ GLORIA STATION
AWAITS WITH A RESTAURANT, SHOP,</i> <i> AND PANORAMA TERRACE.</i> <i> THE EARLY RIDE
IS DISCOUNTED ENOUGH</i> <i> TO PAY FOR A BIG BREAKFAST</i> <i> IN THE REVOLVING RESTAURANT
WHICH CAPS THE SUMMIT.</i> <i> BREAKFAST COMES WITH 360
DEGREES OF EVERCHANGING VIEWS.</i> <i> WHILE LIFTS TAKE YOU TO
THE HIGH POINTS EFFORTLESSLY,</i> <i> THERE'S NOTHING
LIKE ACTUALLY HIKING.</i> <i> YOU CAN GAIN YOUR
ALTITUDE BY LIFT</i> <i>AND HIKE FROM A GONDOLA STATION
ON A LEVEL TRAIL.</i> <i> TRAILS ARE THOUGHTFULLY
SIGN-POSTED.</i> <i> THIS SIGN POINTS
TO EIGHT DESTINATIONS.</i> <i> GIMMELWALD IS 3 HOURS,
15 MINUTES TO THE LEFT.</i> <i> THESE TIMES ARE CLOCKED
BY LOCAL SENIOR CITIZENS,</i> <i> A HUMBLING THOUGHT.</i> <i> MOUNTAIN HUTS ARE STATIONED
THROUGHOUT THE ALPS,</i> <i> OFTEN A COMFORTABLE
DAY'S HIKE APART.</i> <i> YOU COULD HIKE
FROM FRANCE TO SLOVENIA,</i> <i> NEVER COME OUT
OF THE MOUNTAINS</i> <i> AND EVERY NIGHT SLEEP
IN A HUT LIKE THIS.</i> <i> THEY PROVIDE SIMPLE MEALS,
HOT DRINKS AND CHEAP LOFT BEDS.</i> <i> ENABLING HIKERS
TO ENJOY SERIOUS HIKES</i> <i> WITHOUT CARRYING FOOD,
SLEEPING BAGS OR TENTS.</i> <i> I LOVE THESE HIKES.</i> <i> WHILE WE'RE HIGH
ABOVE THE VILLAGES,</i> <i> WE'RE NOT TOO HIGH
FOR THE COWS OR THE GOATS.</i> <i> TAKE TIME TO GREET THESE
TAME ALPINE COMPANIONS,</i> <i> AND LISTEN TO THEIR RANDOM
SYMPHONY OF BELLS.</i> [ clanging of cow
and goat bells ] [ baa-a-a ] <i> ENJOY THE WILDFLOWERS, </i> <i> INCLUDING, IF THEY'RE
IN SEASON,</i> <i> THE MUCH-LOVED EDELWEISS,
A SYMBOL OF THE ALPS.</i> <i> THIS IS A TYPICAL
SWISS RESORT COMMUNITY,</i> <i> PEACEFULLY TRAFFIC-FREE
WITH HIKERS IN THE SUMMER,</i> <i> SKIERS IN THE WINTER,
LOTS OF BIG HOTELS,</i> <i> CLIFFSIDE TERRACE RESTAURANTS,</i> <i> AND COLORFUL SHOPS WITH ALL
THE ALPINE TRINKETS.</i> [ bell ringing ] <i> MURREN IS ALSO A GOOD STARTING
POINT FOR MOUNTAIN BIKING,</i> OKAY, NOW I'VE GOT
ABOUT A HALF A DAY. WHAT'S A GOOD
LOOP TRIP? GOOD LOOP? I'D RECOMMEND
FROM MURREN HERE, GOING DOWN
TO GIMMELWALD HERE. IT'S ALWAYS DOWN
IN ELEVATION. STECHELBERG ALONG THE BOTTOM
OF THE VALLEY FLOOR, TO APPROXIMATELY
LAUTERBRUNNEN. THEN YOU CAN PUT HER
ON THE LIFT, GO UP THE FUNICULAR AND... Rick:
RIGHT BACK INTO MURREN. DON'T FORGET TO TAKE
A FEW PICTURES. I'LL DO THAT. OKAY. HEY, THANKS A LOT.
HAVE A GOOD DAY. BYE. BYE-BYE. <i> SMALL SERVICE ROADS
AND WELL-MARKED INTERSECTIONS</i> <i> MAKE BIKING EASY.</i> <i> AND SINCE I'M USING LIFTS
TO REGAIN MY ALTITUDE,</i> <i> MOST OF MY BIG LOOP RIDE
IS LEVEL OR DOWNHILL.</i> <i> SIGNS INDICATE
WHERE BIKERS ARE WELCOME.</i> <i> THIS LITTLE ROAD LEADS
TO THE VALLEY FLOOR.</i> <i> LAUTERBRUNNEN MEANS
"VALLEY OF LOUD WATERS,"</i> <i> AN APT NAME.</i> <i> AND TODAY, THE WATERFALLS
ARE PARTICULARLY ROBUST.</i> <i> OF THE MANY WATERFALLS,
TRUMMELBACH IS UNIQUE</i> <i> BECAUSE IT'S ACTUALLY
INSIDE THE MOUNTAIN</i> <i> AND OFFERS
A BEHIND-THE-SCENES PEEK</i> <i> AT THE POWER
OF NATURE IN ACTION.</i> <i> YOUR TRUMMELBACH FALLS
EXPERIENCE</i> <i> STARTS WITH AN ELEVATOR RIDE.</i> <i> THEN, AFTER HIKING
THROUGH SOME CAVERNOUS TUNNELS,</i> <i> YOU EMERGE DEEP
INSIDE THE MOUNTAIN</i> <i> AND HIGH ABOVE
THE VALLEY FLOOR.</i> <i> YOU SEE THE RAGING RIVER,</i> <i> GRINDING LIKE GOD'S BANDSAW
DEEPER AND DEEPER</i> <i> INTO THE MOUNTAIN.</i> <i> THE MELTWATER
FROM THE REGION'S TOP PEAKS,</i> <i> THE EIGER, MONCH AND JUNGFRAU,</i> <i> THUNDERS THROUGH
THIS FUNNEL-LIKE GORGE</i> <i> AT THE RATE OF OVER FOUR
THOUSAND GALLONS A SECOND.</i> <i> ROLLING ON,</i> <i> MY ROUTE TAKES ME THROUGH
A TYPICAL EUROPEAN CAMPGROUND.</i> <i> IT'S UNDERSTANDABLE
WHY CAMPGROUNDS</i> <i> ARE SO POPULAR HERE.</i> <i> GOOD ONES ARE
IDYLLICALLY SITUATED</i> <i> AND COME WITH PLENTY
OF RUSTIC COMFORTS.</i> <i> A WELL-GROOMED PLACE
TO PARK YOUR TRAILER</i> <i> OR PITCH YOUR TENT,</i> <i> GREAT FACILITIES,
A SMALL STORE AND RESTAURANT.</i> <i> AND CAMPGROUNDS OFTEN
COME WITH BUNGALOWS</i> <i> OFFERING CHEAP BEDS
FOR THOSE WITHOUT GEAR.</i> <i> NESTLED IN THE BOTTOM
OF THE VALLEY</i> <i> IS THE TOWN OF LAUTERBRUNNEN.</i> <i> ITS CENTRAL LOCATION
MAKES IT A HANDY HUB</i> <i> FROM WHICH TO EXPLORE
EITHER SIDE OF THE VALLEY.</i> <i> FROM HERE A FUNICULAR,</i> <i> WHICH CARRIES BIKES
AS WELL AS PEOPLE,</i> <i> TAKES ME STRAIGHT
UP THE MOUNTAIN.</i> EXCUSE ME,
HOW STEEP IS THIS? 61 PERCENT. 61 PERCENT. YES. AND DOESN'T
FALL DOWN? NEVER. NEVER? NEVER A PROBLEM. FOR 100 YEARS. YES. <i> THIS SURE BEATS THE STAIRS.</i> <i> AND FROM THE TOP,
A SCENIC LANE</i> <i> LEADS BACK TO MY
STARTING POINT IN MURREN.</i> <i> EXPLORING THIS
NATURAL WONDERLAND,</i> <i> YOU COME UPON GREAT EXAMPLES
OF HOW IN SWITZERLAND,</i> <i> TRADITION MEETS THE MODERN
WORLD AND SURVIVES.</i> <i> THIS WATERWHEEL,</i> <i> 150 YEARS OLD BUT WASHED OUT
IN A RECENT FLOOD,</i> <i> WAS REBUILT WITH ITS BLADES
STILL POWERED</i> <i> BY A MOUNTAIN STREAM.</i> <i> ALMOST ALL OF TIMBER IN THE
MOUNTAIN VILLAGES AROUND HERE</i> <i> WAS CUT BY WATER-POWERED
MILLS LIKE THIS.</i> <i> SMALL-SCALE MILLS
ARE SLOWER</i> <i> AND MORE LABOR-INTENSIVE
THAN MODERN MILLS,</i> <i> BUT THERE'S STILL A STRONG
DEMAND FOR THIS MORE EXPENSIVE,</i> <i> BUT TRADITIONALLY-MADE,
LOCAL PRODUCT.</i> <i> MILK COWS SPEND THEIR SUMMERS</i> <i> MUNCHING THE WILD HERBS AND
FLOWERS IN THE HIGH MEADOWS.</i> <i> THEIR MILK IS DESTINED TO
BECOME THE TREASURED ALP CHEESE</i> <i> OR</i> alp kasa. <i> ALPINE FARMS, DOING THEIR
TRADITIONAL WORK,</i> <i> WELCOME HIKERS AND BIKERS</i> <i> FOR A PEEK
AT THE CHEESEMAKING ACTION.</i> <i>THIS FARM IS NEWLY RENOVATED TO
MEET EUROPEAN UNION STANDARDS.</i> <i> FAILING TO MEET THESE
WOULD MEAN </i> <i> THE CHEESE COULD
NOT BE EXPORTED.</i> <i> BUT STILL, TRADITIONAL
QUALITY SURVIVES</i> <i> ALL THESE MODERN REGULATIONS.</i> <i> EACH MORNING, VERONICA,</i> <i> A LICENSED AND HIGHLY-TRAINED
CHEESEMAKER AND HER CREW,</i> <i> MILK THE COWS AND HEAT
A COPPER VAT OF MILK</i> <i> OVER A WOOD FIRE.</i> <i> AS IT SLOWLY CURDLES,</i> <i> IT'S STIRRED
AT JUST THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE </i> <i> UNTIL THE CONSISTENCY IS
EXACTLY HOW VERONICA LIKES IT.</i> <i> AT JUST THE RIGHT MOMENT,</i> <i> SHE SWINGS THE VAT
OFF THE FIRE,</i> <i> THEN QUICKLY DREDGES THE VAT
WITH HER CHEESECLOTH,</i> <i> AND PACKS THE FRESH
CHEESE INTO FRAMES.</i> <i> THIS PROCESS IS REPEATED
EVERY DAY FOR 100 DAYS</i> <i> HERE IN THE HIGH COUNTRY.</i> <i>A COW'S UDDER KNOWS NO WEEKEND.</i> <i> IN THE NEXT HUT,
YESTERDAY'S CHEESE</i> <i> TAKES A TWO-DAY BATH
IN SALT BRINE</i> <i> AND, AFTER A SALTY RUBDOWN,</i> <i> IT'S MARKED ALP CHEESE
WITH A DATE AND NUMBER</i> <i> AND SET ON A SHELF TO AGE.</i> <i> EACH VILLAGE TAKES PRIDE
IN ITS OWN CHEESE.</i> <i> THIS HUT IS FULL
OF LOCAL ALP CHEESE.</i> Rick:<i>
Guten tag.</i> HELLO. DO YOU
SPEAK ENGLISH? A LITTLE BIT. CAN I -- WELL,
I SPEAK ONLY ENGLISH. CAN I --<i>
alp kase?</i> YAH. TASTE IT? YAH. OKAY. SO THIS IS<i>
alp kase.</i> YAH,
THIS IS ALP. ...JUST UP HERE. <i> ALONG WITH YOUNGER</i> alp kase, <i> MANY CHEESEMAKERS
PRODUCE</i> hobel kase, <i> AN OLDER, STRONGER CHEESE,
AGED FOR UP TO THREE YEARS.</i> <i> IT'S NAMED AFTER THE</i> hobel,<i>
OR WOOD PLANE</i> <i> THAT'S USED TO CUT IT.</i> Rick:
OH, THAT
CUTS DIFFERENT. SO THIS
IS STRONGER. YAH. <i> geschmacke sehr gut.</i> <i> AND YOU CAN BUY IT
BY THE WHEEL, WEDGE,</i> <i> OR A WAFER-THIN SLICE
TO TAKE WITH YOU ON A HIKE.</i> <i> Danke schon.
Wiedersehen.</i> BYE-BYE. [ cow bells clanging ] THEY SAY THE CHARACTER
OF THE ALP CHEESE IS SHAPED BY THE HERBS
AND THE FLOWERS THE COWS MUNCH. SOME LOCALS CLAIM
THEY CAN EVEN TELL IN WHICH VALLEY THE COWS
GRAZED JUST BY THE TASTE. I CAN'T, BUT THE TASTE IS GREAT. MMM, THAT'S VERY GOOD. <i> THE ONLY RESTAURANT IN TOWN
IS AT THE GIMMELWALD PENSION,</i> <i> A MOM-AND-POP AFFAIR SERVING
BASIC BUT TASTY ALPINE CUISINE.</i> <i> THE MENU, WHICH OFFERS
LOCAL ORGANIC PRODUCE</i> <i> CHANGES WITH WHATEVER
THE FARMERS ARE PRODUCING.</i> HOW IS YOUR DINNER? IT'S VERY GOOD. WHAT -- TELL ME
ABOUT THIS SAUSAGE. THIS IS ORGANIC VEAL BRATWURST
SAUSAGE FROM HERE, FROM GIMMELWALD. OKAY, THE FONDUE HERE -- THIS
IS, WHAT KIND OF CHEESE IS HERE? IT'S MIXED CHEESE WITH GRUYERE
FROM THE FRENCH WITH WHITE WINE. HOW DO
YOU DO IT? YOU MUST START
ON THE BOTTOM. ON THE BOTTOM?
OKAY. OTHERWISE YOU MUST CLEAN
THE POT IN THE KITCHEN. I DON'T WANT
TO DO THAT. NO? OKAY,
SO WORK. [ laughter ] [ cow bell sounds ] <i> I ALWAYS ENJOY A CHANCE
TO HEAR TRADITIONAL MUSIC</i> <i> AND UP HERE THAT STARTS
WITH COW BELLS.</i> [ yodeling chorus ] ♪♪ [ applause ] [ sound of horn ] <i> HISTORICALLY, DELING
AND ALP HORNS</i> <i> WERE A WAY FOR DISTANT
SHEPHERDS, FARMSTEADS</i> <i> AND COMMUNITIES TO COMMUNICATE
WITH ONE ANOTHER.</i> <i> THE LONG, LEGATTO, ECHOING
TONES JUST SEEMED SO RIGHT</i> <i> HIGH IN THE ALPS.</i> ♪♪ [ long, clear note ] GOOD, VERY GOOD. [ low note ] <i> FOR BUGLERS,
IT'NOT THAT TOUGH.</i> <i> YOU BUZZ JUST AS YOU WOULD
WHEN PLAYING A TRUMPET.</i> <i> SINCE THERE ARE NO KEYS, YOU
GET THE SAME NOTES AS A BUGLE.</i> [ various notes ] [ laughter and applause ] <i> NEEDLESS TO SAY, THERE WAS
NO REQUEST FOR AN ENCORE.</i> <i> ANYONE VISITING
THE BERNER OBERLAND</i> <i> PASSES THROUGHHE GRAND OLD
RESORT TOWN OF INTERLAKEN.</i> <i> THE REGION'S BUSY
TRANSPORTATION HUB,</i> <i> IT'S MOST USEFUL AS A
SPRINGBOARD FOR ALPINE THRILLS.</i> <i> INTERLAKEN'S CLASSIC
OLD-WORLD HOTELS</i> <i> REMIND VISITORS
OF ITS GLORY DAYS.</i> IN THE LATE 1800s, WHEN THE PAINTERS AND POETS
OF THE ROMANTIC AGE POPULARIZED THE WONDERS
OF THESE MOUNTAINS, THE ALPS BECOME A MAJOR STOP FOR THE WEALTHY
ON THEIR GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE. INTERLAKEN BECAME ONE
OF THE ORIGINAL ALPINE RESORTS AND GRACIOUS HOTELS
WITH BALLROOMS LIKE THIS LINED ITS MAIN STREET. <i> INTERLAKEN'S GLORY DAYS
ARE LONG GONE,</i> <i> ITS ELEGANT OLD HOTELS
ECLIPSED BY NEW,</i> <i> MORE JET-SETTY RESORTS.</i> <i> TODAY, ITS STREETS ARE FILLED
WITH SHOPPING TEMPTATIONS.</i> <i> MONITORS SHOW LIVE PICTURES</i> <i> OF THE VISIBILITY
AT FAMOUS PEAKS.</i> <i> IF THE TV SCREEN SHOWS
THE SUMMIT IS SOCKED IN,</i> <i> YOU CAN CHOOSE FROM SOME
INTERESTING LOWLAND OPTIONS.</i> IN THE 20th CENTURY, SWITZERLAND, FAMOUS
FOR ITS NEUTRALITY, BECAME AN ALPINE FORTRESS, HONEYCOMBED WITH UNDERGROUND
MILITARY INSTALLATIONS. BEHIND THIS DOOR
HIDES AN ARMY HOSPITAL WITH SEVERAL THOUSAND BEDS. <i> ANTICIPATING AN INVASION,
SWITZERLAND HAD AIRSTRIPS</i> <i> BURIED IN THE MOUNTAINSIDES</i> <i> AND POP-UP TANK BARRIERS
EMBEDDED IN THE FREEWAYS.</i> <i> EVERY STRATEGIC
BRIDGE AND TUNNEL,</i> <i> DESIGNED WITH
EXPLOSIVES BUILT IN,</i> <i> COULD BE DESTROYED
WITH A MOMENT'S NOTICE.</i> <i> MY FRIEND, FRITZ HUTMACHER,</i> <i> WHO JUST FINISHED 20 YEARS
IN THE ARMY RESERVE,</i> <i> IS GIVING AWAY A FEW
SWISS MILITARY SECRETS.</i> Rick:
SO SWITZERLAND IS FAMOUS
FOR BEING NEUTRAL. Fritz:
YES. BUT OVER
THE LAST 70 YEARS, THE ALPS GOT TURNED
INTO A HUGE FORTRESS. NOW WE HAVE
OVER 15,000 BUILDINGS, LIKE THE ONES AROUND US,
WITH HIDDEN GUNS, AND EVEN THE NEIGHBORS,
THEY WERE NOT AWARE WHAT'S IN, THEY WERE SO SECRET. 15,000 UNDERGROUND
INSTALLATIONS? YES. THIS BARN LOOKS LIKE MANY
OTHERS IN SWITZERLAND, BUT IT HIDES
A SECRET. LET'S HAVE
A LOOK INSIDE. [ hinges creaking ] WOW.
LOOK AT THIS THING. WHAT WAS THIS FOR?
WHY DID THEY HAVE THIS HERE? IT WAS FOR WORLD WAR II. IT PROTECTED THE FORTRESS,
THE ALPS. AND WAS IT USED LATER
THAN WORLD WAR II? YES, IT GOT UPDATED
OVER THE LAST DECADES AND HAS NEW
TECHNOLOGY AND... Rick:
SO ACTUALLY
THIS GUN WORKS? THIS GUN WORKS. NOW CHILDREN COULD HAVE GROWN UP
RIGHT OUTSIDE THESE DOORS NOT KNOWING THERE
WAS A GUN SITTING HERE? NOT ONLY CHILDREN,
GENERATIONS WERE NOT AWARE WHAT WAS ACTUALLY
INSIDE THESE BUILDINGS. AND THIS
IS NOT WOOD! IT LOOKS
LIKE WOOD. Fritz:
NO, THAT'S SOLID CONCRETE. <i> IN THIS TOWN, FOUR
INNOCENT-LOOKING HAY BARNS</i> <i> CONCEAL A NETWORK OF TUNNELS</i> <i> CONNECTING SEVERAL
OF THESE BIG GUNS.</i> <i> WITH THE END OF THE COLD WAR,</i> <i> MANY OF THESE ONCE
TOP-SECRET SITES</i> <i> ARE NOW OPEN TO THE PUBLIC
AS MUSEUMS.</i> THIS IS THE GUN
WE JUST SAW. <i> Guten tag.</i> <i> Guten tag.</i> [ speaking German ] Rick:
SO, FRITZ,
FROM HEADQUARTERS THEY WOULD TELL THEM
WHAT COORDINATES TO SET. Fritz:
YES, CERTAIN COORDINATES
WOULD GET INTO THAT CALCULATOR AND THE GUN
GETS ADJUSTED. Rick:
OKAY. <i>A QUICK DEMONSTRATION SHOWS HOW
THE GUN WAS PREPPED AND LOADED.</i> THIS IS NOT
JUST A MUSEUM PIECE. IT FEELS LIKE IT
COULD STILL WORK. YAH, IF WE HAD A LIVE ROUND,
WE COULD STILL FIRE IT TODAY. <i> AND THESE WOODEN HOUSES</i> <i> LOOK CHEERY AND VULNERABLE
FROM THE OUTSIDE,</i> <i> BUT LIKE NEARLY ALL
MODERN SWISS HOUSES,</i> <i> FRITZ'S FAMILY HOME</i> <i> SITS UPON A NO-NONSENSE
CONCRETE BOMB SHELTER.</i> THIS IS THE DOOR
TO OUR BOMB SHELTER. MAN. SO, HOW MUCH
MUST THIS WEIGH? COUPLE OF THOUSAND POUNDS,
CONCRETE AND STEEL. IF YOU HAVE A NUCLEAR ATTACK... YOU RUN IN. ...YOU ALL RUN IN HERE. <i> SWISS MEN ARE REQUIRED
TO SPEND TIME IN THE MILITARY,</i> <i> INCLUDING ABOUT 20 YEARS
IN THE RESERVE,</i> <i> AND LIKE MINUTEMEN
AWAITING AN INVASION,</i> <i>THEY HAVE THEIR GUNS, GAS MASKS
AND AMMO READY AND WAITING.</i> <i> WHILE THE SWISS
MAY BE READY FOR WAR,</i> <i> THEY SEEM MOST
AT PEACE WITH NATURE.</i> <i>FROM TOWNS ON THE VALLEY FLOOR,</i> <i> A TRAIN TAKES TOURISTS
AND ADVENTURERS ALIKE</i> <i>TO THE REGION'S ULTIMATE PERCH,
THE JUNGFRAUJOCH.</i> <i> THIS BREATHTAKING STATION
SITS LIKE A FAIRY CASTLE</i> <i> AT 11,000 FEET, BETWEEN TWO
OF THE REGIONS' HIGHEST PEAKS.</i> <i> THE WEATHER'S USUALLY BETTER
IN THE EARLY MORNING.</i> <i> WE'RE ON THE FIRST TRAIN.</i> <i> TOWERING HIGH ABOVE,</i> <i> ARE THE JUNGFRAU, MONCH
AND EIGER PEAKS.</i> <i> NAMED FOR THE LEGEND
OF THE YOUNG MAIDEN, JUNGFRAU,</i> <i> BEING PROTECTED
BY THE MONK, OR MONCH,</i> <i> FROM THE OGRE, OR EIGER.</i> <i> CONTINUING ON, WE CHANGED
TRAINS AT KLEINE SCHEIDEGG,</i> <i> A RAIL JUNCTION
AT THE BASE OF THESE PEAKS.</i> <i> IT HAS SHOPS, RUSTIC BEDS
AND HEARTY FOOD FOR HIKERS.</i> <i> THIS IS THE JUMPING-OFF POINT
FOR ROCK CLIMBERS ATTEMPTING</i> <i> TO SCALE THE FOREBODING
NORTH FACE OF THE EIGER.</i> <i> THIS TRAIN INCREDIBLY TUNNELS
THROUGH THE INSIDE OF THE EIGER</i> <i> ON ITS SLOW, YET EXHILARATING
CLIMB TO THE LITERAL HIGH POINT</i> <i> OF ANY TRIP TO THE SWISS ALPS,
THE JUNGFRAUJOCH.</i> <i>SWISS ENGINEERS DUG THIS TUNNEL
AND BUILT THIS RAILWAY</i> <i> OVER A HUNDRED YEARS AGO.</i> <i> WHY?
BECAUSE THEY COULD</i> <i> AND FOR THE VIEWING PLEASURE</i> <i> OF THOSE 19TH CENTURY
ROMANTIC-AGE VISITORS.</i> <i> HALFWAY UP THE EIGER,</i> <i> THE TRAIN STOPS
AT PANORAMA WINDOWS</i> <i> ROCK CLIMBERS CAN EXIT HERE
INTO AN UNFORGIVING WORLD</i> <i> OF ICE AND AIR.</i> <i> AFTER ANOTHER
SHORT TUNNEL RIDE,</i> <i> YOU EMERGE AT 11,000 FEET,
THE TOP OF EUROPE.</i> <i> SPECTACULAR VIEWS
OF MAJESTIC PEAKS</i> <i> STRETCH AS FAR AS YOU CAN SEE.</i> <i> CRADLED AMONGST THESE GIANTS,</i> <i> YOU UNDERSTAND THE TIMELESS
ALLURE OF THE SWISS ALPS.</i> <i> AN ELEVATOR CARRIES YOU
TO THE HIGHEST VIEWING POINT.</i> <i> FROM THERE YOU
CAN SEE ALETCH GLACIER,</i> <i> EUROPE'S LONGEST, STRETCHING
11 MILES SOUTH TOWARDS ITALY.</i> <i> THE AIR IS THIN.</i> <i> PEOPLE ARE IN GIDDY MOODS.</i> <i> IT'S COLD EVEN ON A SUNNY DAY.</i> <i>WHILE THE JUNGFRAUJOCH STATION
CALLS ITSELF THE TOP OF EUROPE,</i> <i> IT'S POSSIBLE
TO VENTURE EVEN HIGHER.</i> THERE'S A HUT JUST UP THE HILL, AND I'M HEADED THERE FOR ANOTHER
VIEW AND SOME HOT CHOCOLATE. THANKS FOR JOINING US. I'M RICK STEVES. UNTIL NEXT TIME,
KEEP ON TRAVELIN'. <i> auf Wiedersehen.</i>