FREE 3 HOUR Landscape Photography Tutorial WITH RAW FILES! Nikon Z6

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Welcome to the ultimate travel and landscape photography to tutorial. This tutorial includes all of the raw files that you're going to see on the screen. Crazy. I know this is by far the most ambitious tutorial on YouTube, filmed over two months in Iceland and Japan. Links to all the raw files and a full table of contents are in the description. If you get a lot of value from this tutorial, we are not asking for any money. All we ask is that you share it on your story, on a photography group or email to a friend at checkout. I'll even reshare the best ones. Thanks for watching and we hope that this is the most valuable photography video that you've ever found online. All for free. [inaudible] [inaudible] welcome to this tutorial. We are going to go through a lot of different variations of situations you can find yourself in, in Iceland and in Japan. Uh, here it's gonna be a lot of cityscape tutorials in Iceland's gonna be a lot more landscape driven or shooting everything on the Nikon mirrorless series. But all of these tips should apply to any camera system you're using. I'm going to start off the tutorial by telling you, I guess the thing that helped me the most, when you're learning to see light and you're just not sure what is good light and you're not sure what are good compositions, you're really just being distracted by the fact that everything is just color and you're used to looking at the world in color. But if you set your preview on your camera to monochrome, you really simplify everything, so it's pretty simple. You just hop in here and you go from standard to monochrome and there is no negative doing this. This is just the JPEG preview. You should be shooting raw, and if you're shooting wrong, you're still shooting the full color image, so you're seeing the black and white simplified version. You're seeing the light, you're seeing the composition a lot better, and then when you get back to your computer, you can choose whether you want it to be black and white or whether you want it to be the raw color version. Another tip to start off here. This is a bit of a higher level tip, but I think it's an important foundational element. To do your best work, you have to go to the places that legitimately have meaning to you. Meaning will inspire you when inspiration isn't coming naturally and meaning will make up for technical flaws. It does not have to be as far as Tokyo. It could be that path that you walk every day or your childhood backyard. Our culture is so caught up in just doing things for the internet likes and it is very easy to create a body of work that doesn't actually have any meaning or value to you. While Tokyo and Iceland are the examples here, please resist the urge to think that you can only do good work in far off places. The truth is you're probably going to create your most valuable images really close to home. We're here in Tokyo, which is one of my favorite travel photography locations. There's just so much going on here, and I'm gonna ask this random gentleman a for landscape photography tip. Excuse me, sir. Do you have a travel photography tip? So me and my son, one thing is there's a lot of, there's a lot of people out here that just stand out, you know, their style is different and there's a lot of like, this is the New York of the other side of the earth I guess. And when I see, when I see a lot of signs and a lot of things that look different out of the ordinary from what I'm used to, I usually tend to photograph those things as well. So mostly looking for things that just stand out of the ordinary, something that just stands out out of the crowd. Yeah. Cool. Well thank you. Random stranger does. She to add to Mandy's point a little bit to travel is to be inspired by the ordinary to be fully present and aware, unless your jet lag 12 hours and existing only on hotdogs from gas stations like we are. Let's talk about gear. Welcome to the gear section of this video. Originally I recorded this in Iceland with the ocean and the mountains. Everything is beautiful. But even though we were in the middle of nowhere, there was a lot of radio interference on my wireless microphone. So as a note, always monitor your audio. If you're doing video, I'm going to walk you through all of the gear that I use and I'm attempting to break this down into way that will hopefully save you the most amount of money possible or at least make sure that when you spend money that is in fact in the right places. Uh, that is my number one goal I think with this video. So I'm going to break it down kind of character style, like a video game. Uh, one other thing to kind of start this section off with that I think is important to talk about is that we as landscape shooters, we go out there into the world and we get really tunnel visioned on getting the shot of that waterfall or whatever it might be. And we tend to forget about the people. We're actually on that journey, on that adventure with. And I think that it is important for us to remember that while we do want that like amazing waterfall shot, that when we come back to the most important images, 10 15, 20 years from now are going to be the photos of the people we were actually on that adventure with. So try not to get too focused too tunnel vision in creating just the landscape aspect of things. Tried to involve friends, family, whoever you're on that trip with as much as possible. And I feel like those images are going to be a heck of a lot more valuable 50 years from now. And also, um, I guess humans add scale to images as well. We'll talk about that in the future, but they, there are some helpful things that technically they, people do make images better for the most part. Landscape images I think. Uh, so to break this down, I think that there are kind of three character types, or at least I'm going to simplify it to three character types. There are a lot more, I guess, niches of photography out there. But to break it down, I feel like there is kind of the portrait shooter that you're out there to grab photos of people. Maybe it's a higher commission and you're out, you're traveling, but you're also photographing people. When I'm at home, I'm a wedding photographer, so I feel like I am this like this human, like a a hundred percent pretty much. And then on the other side of things, in the travel and landscape realm, there is the purest landscape photographer and the purest landscape photographer. Simply out there, maybe alone, I feel like I do maybe one third of my trips alone. And when I do that, I feel like I'm a lot more on this side of things. Traditionally on a trip I am more in the middle, which is kind of, I'm going to call it hybrid character, I guess that we can have portrait shooter over here. We can have the purest landscape photographer over here. And then both of them kind of come together in the middle, I think to make a travel photographer, which I think is more of a hybrid shooter. I'm not talking photo video, just um, or I guess you could be, but I'm talking more just that you're out there to document both people in places a little bit more kind of like street style and, or you can, if you want, but then also have the ability to create those great landscape images as well. Um, my, I guess number one thing is that I want my kid, I want my lenses. I don't want to carry anything that's too heavy all of the time, uh, that when I'm out traveling I feel like I don't even want to check a bag. So if I can do everything carry on only, that's one thing that these Nikon mirrorless cameras is ed six has been incredibly helpful with that. It really did make a lot of my gear a lot smaller so that I'm able to travel with it a little bit more. And, um, especially when we're traveling with multiple other photographers, it's very easy for us when we're all on the same system to share lenses. So there might be some value in that if you're traveling with somebody else to actually, um, kind of just like pool lenses together and be like, these are the things we're gonna need to bring so that nobody has to check any bags specifically. Never check a bag with lenses or anything in it. Um, or batteries I guess as well. Let's start this off. Let's talk about the purist landscape photographer. And when I'm in purest landscape mode, I use a lens that I never use when I'm a wedding and portrait shooter. And that is the 24 to 72.8 and I like the 2.8 version, not necessarily because it's a 2.8 rather than the F four version. The four version is the kit lens that comes with this. Um, and the kit lens, I feel like we've kind of given that a bad name since the 18 to 55 days, but a 24 to 70 that comes on these new Nikon cameras or really any kit lens you get with most systems now is really an incredible tool. And well, I don't find myself necessarily needing to shoot at 2.8 which I think is usually the reason to upgrade to something like this. I do find myself using this a lot and I think it's important as a landscape shooter to go out there and to know what you use the most and then to iterate on that gear. So start off with kit lens. Don't just go all in and just spend a bunch of money to have like the best of the best that you can. Start off and you can find out what you need, what you use, and then at that point go to that next step and then get that 2.8 version or the next version up. So as a landscape, purest photographer, number one is this 24 to 70 this is the most important piece of kit or equivalency if you're shooting on an APS. See body. Another lens that I bring with me that I never bring with me if I'm in the wedding portrait space, is this 14 to 30. Uh, it's an F four. It's a super wide angle lens. And what you're going to see me using this lens in a lot is when there's a very interesting foreground, I feel like as photographers and myself included, I have this weird obsession with going as wide as possible cause I think it's the most impactful image. And I've been trying to kind of reel that back over time. And I know when I'm using a super wide that whatever's happening in the foreground is the most important or I'm trying to distort reality a little bit and make it seem a little bit more strange than real life. Uh, which I do in Iceland because I feel like it's a strange environment and you kinda capitalize on the strengths of that. And by using a super wide, you can make things look a little bit weirder than life. So that is my main kit. If I'm out there just to do landscape photography only. The one edition, and I feel like this is in addition to any of the characters, is a 70 to 200. So this is not my Nikon D eight 50. Uh, you can use the FTS ed to put it onto the mirrorless body if you want, but by using a 70 to 200 I find when I'm in bigger environments with lots of mountains for big landscape, you almost need a big lens and we'll get more into this on the actual shooting. And for the most part I am usually really happy when I do bring this lens. Again, you don't need to start with the 2.8 version of this. You can start with the F four if you find that you're using it a lot, you can upgrade to the 2.8 at some point. I use this a lot for the wedding and portrait side of my business, which is why I own kind of the best of the best for this because this is a main key lens for that. But big landscapes need a bigger lens some of the times, so that's a nice to have but not necessarily a hundred percent requirement right out of the gate. But definitely depending on the location and depending on the trip, it's a very, very important lens. So landscape photographer, those two lenses with the option of the three moving over here to the wedding and portrait shooter, what I would actually be bringing is probably an 85 millimeter lens. I feel like that is my comfortable place as a quiet introverted photographer. Uh, so my 85 is not here, but it's in the office over there. It's essentially this size of lens. Uh, if you prefer the 50 millimeter focal length for portraits, you can bring this 50 as well. It's a 1.8. It's very good. Um, and then depending on the situation that you find yourself in that specifically when we were in San taurine filming this upcoming project, I found that the 35 millimeter lens was really as telephoto as I could comfortably go. When I want to integrate the scene, I want to integrate the people into the scene a lot better and I don't have the space to move around. I found the 35 to be incredibly helpful. So if I am going out into the world to do a wedding and portrait shoot on location travel style, I am going to bring a 35 millimeter lens and am I 85 millimeter lens. These are the two lenses that I would pretty much entirely bring. If I'm shooting a wedding, usually I'm on a 35 and an 85 85 on my main body, I would say 95% of the time, 35 of my second body and I'm super happy with that. The addition to that I think is adding the 70 to 200 that I talked about that if you're in a place that you're really not going to be in control of the situation, like if you're in a big church or something, you can definitely bring this. It will definitely help you out a lot. But I find that when I'm doing travel commissions, usually I have freedom over where I actually stand. So it's pretty easy for me to use an 85 and get a little bit closer. Um, another thing you can do is you can, if you're using a full frame camera and you have an 85 millimeter lens, you can usually go into crop mode. Uh, at least on Nikon cameras you can, uh, you can just hop quickly into DX crop mode and get that extra reach. So you turn the 85 and two 85 times 1.5 and a little more range out of it. So as my kit, 85, 35 from up there to shoot just portraits and then the hybrid kit. So because I have this very nice 24 to 70, I would usually be bringing this, although it is quite happy. So I will do, actually is I will bring the kit lens with me because it's a lot easier to travel with. And usually a 50 millimeter lens, which is right here. So this 50 and this kit lens is all I will usually bring. If I'm just out on a trip, sometimes the 35, sometimes the 24 1.8, which is what I'm actually recording on a, if I'm specifically interested in Astro photography or something that's gonna be happening at nighttime, that I do need a wider aperture, 1.8 aperture for um, and also the whiteness of it. Uh, what I've discovered though is that using the super wide or even using the kit lens at F four, if you are shooting stars, that with just high ISO performance and cameras now it's actually surprisingly easy that you don't need to get that 21.8 or whatever the lens is that you think that you need to shoot stars with. Um, if you're just doing it for fun, for enjoyment, for yourself to create great images, you don't really need a whole lot of gear. Fortunately, what you do need a lot of gear for is if you want to like really get deep into the, the actual, um, star clusters and everything and start pulling detail out of that. But there is a whole literal world, a universe of information to learn in that sector of things. What you'll see in the on-camera videos that are upcoming here is that we just kind of do the basic star photos that you would expect to see, that you would be happy to capture when you're out there or in Northern lights, photos. Uh, and all of those can realistically be done with this kit lens is 24 to 70, which is really, really cool. So I am super happy of the high ISO performance of pretty much every camera that's coming out now and specifically these Zed sixes, um, I think are kind of the perfect travel camera for me. Um, the other thing I love about them, uh, I guess to speak to the actual camera bodies. Uh, the thing that I liked the most about this ad six is that one, it seems to be like super well weather sealed. Like this is a very good combination that you would not worry too much if you're out in some late or even medium rain. But the other thing I like is just the ergonomics of it, that if I'm carrying a camera around all day, whether it's for landscape photography or it's for wedding and portraits, uh, I want something that just feels nice all the time and that the buttons are all kind of in the right spot. And I find that for my brain, Nikon has designed that camera perfectly hybrid character. I would be happy to bring the 24 to 70 as well as the 50 a or potentially a 35 depending on how I'm feeling or what kind of landscape I'm finding myself in. If I know I'm going to be in somewhere that's a little bit tighter quarters, um, I'll probably bring a 35 if I know I have more freedom to explore and to go wherever I need to, I'll probably bring the 50. So to recap, the characters, landscape, photography, human, uh, you want a super wide likely, it's a nice to have. It's a very nice to have and a kit lens is typically a 24 to 70, and that is my most important lens for that. Uh, and also the nice to have is this 70 to 200 up here as well moving into the hybrid character. Uh, 24 to 70 is great. Even if it's an F four and either a 50 or 35 depending on what you think you're going to find yourself in when you're out in the field, you can also bring all of them because quite honestly like that's a pretty easy lens trifecta to bring with you. Um, when you're in the field, if you think you might be using it. And then moving over here into the more portrait, maybe wedding, um, travel human, you pretty much like the things that I would want the most. 35, 85 and I'm happy to shoot those all day. You can also, depending on what you're comfortable with, if 24 to 70 feels right for you when you're out photographing people, then maybe that is what you want. But I find that with a 35 and an 85, I'm much more conscious over my compositions and with people I feel like shallow depth, the field does fit a little bit better, that you can separate them from the landscapes a little bit and still leave as much detail as you want depending on what I've stopped you're at. Um, but if you want those really shallow depth, the field images, which I feel like just feel the best for me, that when the focus is entirely on the couple are entirely on the person. Um, I feel like that kind of, that sits best with me. So those are the cameras, those are the lenses. Let's get to part two of this video. I'm going to put all these somewhere else and we're going to get to all the random objects that I bring with me when I'm out traveling. All right. For random objects, the most important ones for me, I guess one is bag. We'll get to that in a second. Two are these ND filters that if you want to be out there, and we're going to get to this a lot in the on camera section, uh, these ND filters, just big sunglasses, very cameras. I personally prefer the Scrawn type because they're easier to travel with that. I can bring a few of these with me. Uh, usually I have one for my 24 to 70, the kit lens version where the basically, if I know that if I'm going to be shooting with an MD that I'm probably going to be stopped down a little bit to get a longer exposure. So I bring an MD for that and it fits. It's nice and small for the super wide. I also have one, it's a little bit larger, but uh, it's worth bringing for sure. Um, when you want to get really nice and close to water and actually get that motion up-close, which I think is very, very powerful. So two MDs, that's it. You can buy the plate NDAs if you want, but I've just found that these are much easier to travel with and for the amount that I use them, it's not necessarily worth bringing that full glass plate kit for me. If I was playing the landscape photographer character a lot more, maybe that would actually make more sense. You can get slightly better quality. You can get different variations of filters as well that you can get those like graduated Andy's as well so that if you want just the sky to be a little bit darker as the scene comes down. But I find that we'll actually get to this more in the postproduction aspect of things that I can get it pretty close to what I want in camera. And when it comes to landscape images, I'm okay with going in and retouching a little bit more like that. Um, to actually get the sections of the image to what I want them to be. Uh, if I'm shooting a wedding and I'm delivering 2000 frames, that's a little bit more challenging. So I want to get that as right as I possibly can in camera, but when I'm just going to be kind of finalizing two, three, maybe four images from a trip day, um, I'm happy to go into light room and just kind of make them as perfect as I can in order to save myself time and frustration in the field. Next up tripod. I like this little Manfrotto guy. I'll put a link in the description. I'm not actually certain what it's called, um, and it doesn't say on it, but it's very inexpensive and it fits in a traditional a carry on suitcase. So it like, uh, carry on suitcases about this big and it fits easily in there. I've been carrying around with me kind of everywhere, I guess over the past couple of years. It does struggle. If you want to put like a 70 to 200 on it, it's probably not going to be the right tripod for you. But if you're using a kit lens, again, I'm usually stopped down if I'm using a tripod. So I don't mind using the kit. 70 to 200 and uh, yeah, I have no problems with it. I love it. It fits pretty much everywhere. It's never annoying to bring with you and it's always nice to have. This one specifically goes to like, I think five feet and a little bit. Uh, so it's not quite the six foot, seven foot tripod that you might want if you're out there to, I dunno, whatever you might want to be doing with that, but, uh, it's worked for everything that I've needed it for. You'll see it in action later in this tutorial. Next, the other important thing, uh, that I use a lot is bags. Um, these peak messenger bags. This is the sling and it's, I would say my favorite just bagged to have out in the field. It fits the two lenses and the camera body that I need and nothing more really. Um, you can put some filters if you want into it. Overall, I'm a heck of a lot happier to bring something of this size with me rather than a full backpack that has everything I could possibly ever need. Um, I think there's also something to be said about really kind of doing the best with whatever you currently have with you that I feel like you get more creative and you take things, um, you take images and create images that you would not traditionally do. Um, so I'm kinda happy to do that and I'm happy to let my selections, my gear decisions almost dictate the work that I do out in the field. I think that there's a lot of good accidental discovery that way. Next up we've got these action cans to GoPro or this is the Osmo action and this is a GoPro seven. Um, pro eight is out now, but I haven't really upgraded yet. Uh, three 60 cans are also a heck of a lot of fun for a little while. So if you're looking at three 60 cams, I've been using both the Insta three 61 X, which is great. And the GoPro three 60 camera as well, which is also very, very good. Um, I use these a lot just to have in my bag and I do a lot of video content. So it's nice to have. It's also an incredibly versatile, um, anything after a really go pro, I think six is when they made the massive updates to underwater. So if you have seen GoPro footage in the past and you haven't been that impressed with it and you haven't used one of the new newer cameras, uh, get one of these new cameras for if you're going anywhere underwater, even if I could buy a housing for one of my actual camera bodies, I would still probably prefer to go down a swimming or snorkeling or whatever with this and a selfie stick. If I'm maybe out there to shoot like surfing or something that's a little bit more intense, I would go for the actual proper water kit. But in most circumstances, I am totally happy with the performance of this camera. And they're also just an incredibly versatile piece to have with you for time lapses. I also shoot everything in linear mode, so that's an important thing. So you don't get that weird kind of circular fisheye distortion on it. For drones actually use the Mavic mini, which I really, really love a lot. It's very small. It doesn't shoot raw photos, which is the only downside. So I'm hoping version two of the Maverick mini will shoot D andG files and that's really the only thing that I'm waiting for. When you're shooting with this and you're shooting JPEGs, you just have to be a little bit more conscious of where you're exposing and what you're doing. Or you can be bracketing exposures. The other option is to go for something like the Mavic two that has the Hasselblad lens, that it can do everything in raw that you would ever require. And we use that for a lot of commercial video production. But when I'm traveling to carry that with me, I don't, I don't use it every day. So to carry something that's, even though the footprint of a Maverick too is still very small. Um, I prefer to bring this just because it really does just fit legitimately anywhere. More gear, cameras, straps. This is the sling light by peak design. I like this a lot. It clips onto your camera, the little clips, and you can take this off your camera. You can leave it on your camera, you can do whatever you want. I feel like that's just, it's the easiest travel strap. I found it also, it's lived like a full lifetime and it still looks completely brand new. Uh, which is something that I really like about peak design stuff in general. Uh, it just never shows any real wear, which is really great when it comes to travel that you don't have to worry too much about scuffing things. Uh, this Joby GorillaPod might be, I guess another solution for bringing a tripod with you for storage. I bring solid state hard drives. These are very inexpensive now. They're incredibly small and these are the Santos, the ones you can find these, they're in the link description below. Uh, but I bring these with me everywhere and I usually bring two. And if I am leaving my things in a hotel, I usually bring all of my photos and footage with me as well as I still have a backup in the hotel just in case. If you are traveling, if you're this landscape photographer character, this is a NAR box. Entire reasoning behind having one of these is essentially to do field backup but in a weather sealed style environment so that you're not too worried about anything happening. I'm like, you're not gonna get your laptop out if you're in a waterfall, but you can find a spot to download your card if you absolutely need to on this thing. Um, they're super helpful and they come with a battery and everything. So it's, it's pretty much a full computer inside here that you can do the file structure and you can load images to your phone so you can actually download the raw images on your phone through their app. Very, very cool product here. Lash light, always nice to have as well. Um, that, I dunno, there's no real, just go on Amazon. Find whatever kind of looks the best to you and the last thing I'm going to touch on is if I'm out there to do video production of any sort, but on a smaller scale I bring this Zan, we will S it's very, very small, easy to pack. This is the little tripod that comes with and it's a great stabilizer for video and you can also set your camera up very, very quickly on it. I find that I stick to the prime lenses, so my either my 35 or 50 or sometimes the 24 so it's pretty much balanced and ready to go as soon as I put the camera on it, which is really, really awesome. For video microphones, I use the road video, Mike pro, I like the road video mic pro, the best of all of the shotguns of this size that I have used at least and that includes the pro plus, which is a little bit more expensive. The benefit with the pro plus is that it powers on and off with your camera, which is really nice. Whereas this, you have to actually hit the switch, but that's about it. Uh, and then what I'm actually recording all this audio on is this task cam dr tunnel. So if you ever need good clean audio in the field where it's a very noisy setting, these tasks cams are really incredible with just minimizing noise. Uh, in Japan we actually went Mario carts. Um, you can do Mario carts on the road there, which is a bit insane and should not be allowed. Uh, but I had a microphone under Michael's, um, his Yoshi costume and it sounded like he was in a studio. I actually had to bleed in noise from the GoPro in order to make it sound like he was actually on an active roadway, um, because the audio was so good. So a Tascam dr tan owl is really a fantastic and amazing product. If you just want good clean audio and you don't want to have to worry about the issue that happened with my gear video where the wireless channel is, didn't go through. Um, you also kinda have a redundancy as well that if you have a road video mic on your camera, you have that audio do you use and then if you also have one of these packs on you, you can kind of switch between audio sources. So having more options is always a good thing. Uh, that is gear, that is everything that I use. Hopefully this helped a little bit and hopefully it kind of simplified things to know that you only really need two or three lenses. Hopefully there are lenses that you already have or maybe just one more to add. I'll close this video off by saying that if you don't have the money to buy the lenses that you want to buy, that you're seeing all the YouTubers or whoever use that you can go to the back catalog of lenses that your camera manufacturer has that we've been using a Nikon 50 millimeter, 1.8 E which was actually a kit lens for an old film camera a long time ago and on. And that comes out of six. It actually just looks really great. Like we were surprised. We wanted it to look like a vintage lens and have all those like bad characteristics and flare and we used it and were like, no, this is actually like really good and it stands up even against the 50s today and with that maybe comes a new reason to explore a little bit more into photography to learn a little bit more, which is always a positive thing off to Iceland. All right. Let's talk quickly about camera modes, which is your aperture priority manual or your shutter speed priority? I shoot a lot in manual. This is not something that you have to do. Having an EVF and a screen that actually shows you exactly what the image you're taking really actually speeds up the learning curve of learning to shoot manual. I learned it essentially because I shoot weddings, I shoot high volume events where I have to deliver like a thousand photos, so by shooting manual I can keep everything a lot closer and I can speed my post production workflow up. For landscapes, I'd have no problem shooting on aperture priority. I tend to shoot a lot closer to wide open. So something like a 2.8 or not four out here. I actually kind of like the, the natural way that a lens looks wide open. Uh, you can definitely kind of season a taste. If you feel like that F eight image is great, then that's awesome. And you can shoot at FAA if you want. There's no real right or wrong way to do landscape photography. It's whatever appeals to you, whatever images you like looking at the best. So maybe the next time you're on Instagram and you're flipping through images that you really, really like, maybe take a moment to figure out what their settings are, at least what they appear to be. If everything's nice and sharp detail, they're probably shooting at something like F eight. But if images almost have a feeling you can't explain, there's probably a good chance that they were shot closer to wide open to my camera menu system. Uh, I'm gonna walk you through basically everything that I change, uh, or that I use within a camera menu system storage folder. It's not really a starting point, but we're gonna start here anyways by starting a new folder. Basically, I do this every single time that I downloaded cards so that I know where my files are at. Uh, that I know I just need to download the next folder. Next time I go in a simple file management trick, uh, choose the image area. I do typically stay on full frame mode, but I will switch into Dex mode, which is crop sensor mode. Uh, from time to time you can also set up a button, uh, uh, fast button on your camera to just kind of do that quickly. For image quality, always shooting raw and always shooting JPEG for landscapes, I'm shooting JPEG fine for weddings I'm actually shooting something more like JPEG basic just because I want to be able to upload everything as fast as possible. Image size, always full. Um, unless I'm shooting on a D eight 50, which has 40 plus megapixels I believe. And uh, in that case I actually shoot on medium. So I always kind of want that 24, um, ish megapixel look and feel to my images. I know for landscapes you can definitely go bigger, but, uh, I'm quite happy with 24, uh, for rod recording I leave lossless compression on. Um, I think that's fine. I'm not, I'm not seeing any huge negative drawbacks with that and bit depth to go up to 14. Uh, especially when you're shooting lots of things with a lot of dynamic range. Moving down. Picture control is another thing that I have set to standard. Um, I think it comes defaulted as auto standard basically just kind of gives me the same profile across all images and it doesn't let the camera make too many decisions for me. Uh, active delighting is one thing that I also change. I know there's lots of different versions of this depending on the camera system that you use, but essentially it's kind of adding back a little bit of dynamic range in the JPEGs, uh, just to kind of give me the final look and feel that I want to be editing too. Um, I also find that this is very beneficial in a video mode as well. For focus mode, I'm usually going between AFS and AFC. Uh, depending on the situation. AFC pretty much all day. If I'm at a wedding or a portrait shoot a F S if I'm at a landscape shoot. And then I'll also go in here and I'll show you kinda how I set my auto focus settings. Um, when I'm shooting AFC, I want the priority to be on my release. So when I touch the button, I want the shutter to go off. But for AFS I'm okay with it selecting and making sure that it actually has focused before it actually hits the shutter. And for landscape photography, I want to make sure everything's good and in focus for focus continuous for portrait sessions, I work just a little bit faster. So when I have time to put everything together properly, um, I would prefer to make sure that the focus is correct and I would like the camera to also tell me that yes, the focus is correct. Before setting off the shutter. Another thing you can do is AAF activation. Basically this is setting back button focus so you can set it so only your AAF on button on the back of your camera, uh, generates focus. Uh, so that shutter would not, I'm okay with my shutter button doing focus. I have no issues with that at all. [inaudible] what most important aspects of photography is light and timing and that is not technical. That just means waking up early in the morning, going for a walk and seeing what you got because the light is a lot better and a lot more interesting early in the morning or around some time. Light is interesting because it is what all photos are made of on both a technical and also an artistic level. We will spend our lifetime as photographers observing and learning light, but we will never master it. Just learn to see it better and learn to use it in new ways. To generalize what good light is for landscape photography, I said sunset, sunrise because that is when light has the most direction, it is off access. It is not directly above your head and that leads to a greater three dimensionality of the light. So you can actually feel like you can move through the space of the photograph. All right, so this is a little out of scope, but I thought that it was the best way that I could summarize my thoughts on lighting for landscape photos but teaching through people. So I am a wedding photographer. I made this wedding video down South destination wedding. All of this light is good as coming in through a window with all has good three-dimensionality. There's no competing light sources. I'm very happy with it. Overall you can see for the most part everything is kind of backlit that I'm always kind of on the short side of the light that I am keeping their faces in the shade whenever possible because I feel like that is when people look their best. I take all of these principles to my landscape photography, so if I'm out photographing a waterfall in Iceland, I actually want it to be either in the shade or kind of side lit. I'm never looking for it to be in direct, harsh sun. I'm always looking for flattering light for people and I'm always looking for the most flattering light for my actual landscapes as well. So that unfortunately means waking up super early some mornings and getting out there before everyone else does because as you'll see right now, the light makes a bit of a shift and I'm no longer in control of that light and it's daytime and it's kind of that 2:00 PM noon and I can do the best that I can, but really it's not going to look as good as it does during the most beautiful golden hour. Even if I bring $10,000 worth of lenses and camera bodies out, uh, what I do, and I do this for landscape photos as well as my weddings, is that I really do focus a lot of time on those golden hour moments when everything looks really, really fantastic. I know that's what I'm going to be getting my key shots and I do everything to kind of prep for that. So as you'll see, it rolls back into golden hour here and everything photographically just looks a heck of a lot better. So it's important to get out there during those times to capitalize on those moments when everything is amazing and you don't have to wait for luck. You make your own luck by actually getting out of the house and going and doing the thing. And hopefully you'll be rewarded more often than not. An app that I use pretty often, it's called Alpenglow and basically what it does is it tells me when the golden hour begins, and here in Iceland and November, golden hour is actually all day. So from sunrise at 10 15 until sunset at four Oh five, uh, it's just golden hour the entire day. So it's one of the good reasons to come here. The potential is to get something like this, but the bad potential is that it's going to be windy and rainy. But weather here changes every few minutes. So, uh, what's going on back here? Very rare to get a sunset in Iceland, but the easiest way to get a sunset, nice land as to where laser cat space mittens. It is the number one cause of sunsets in Iceland. Unfortunately the laser cat mittens are not super functional. When it comes to photography. One other important thing is to get it right in camera and what that means in this case is to set your white balance correctly. So I am setting this to a shade white balance because my camera is seeing all this nice, gorgeous warm light and it's trying to counter for that and make it a little bit more boring. I like to set a shade and make the image nice and warm. I also really like to take advantage of flare, so in this case I'm pointing my lens directly at the sun, which traditionally will give you a lot of kind of ghosting and just weirdness to your image. But in this case it's a nice really soft flair. With this 50 millimeter lens, we'll be getting into more editing later, but I've loaded these two images in and all I've done is add my color 2019 preset. Those presets are available in the description below if you're interested. And as you can see, this frame doesn't really hold together so well that while the flare is nice and interesting, it really kind of has a little bit too much going on with it. It also has too much dynamic range and you can bracket which means just doing multiple exposures and then merging them together in post. But in my experience, those images end up feeling a little bit too forced and a little bit too artificial. Uh, what I suggest is playing around a flare but not necessarily photographing directly into the sun like this for landscape images. Uh, we're going to talk a little bit later about how you get that nice little Starburst sun if you're interested in that. Um, because right now it's a bit of a blob one because it's kind of, I guess mainly because it's obstructed by clouds. Uh, over here is a better image. So it's the exact same settings. Um, this, you can see my settings kind of up in here. So 50 millimeter, 2.8, uh, maybe slightly different settings. I have stopped down, little bit opened up, uh, just to get a little shallower depth. The field, I felt that it was more of an artistic photo this way, uh, compositionally and also holds together a lot better to uh, that here you really have no idea what you're officially looking at. You're looking at a lava field, you're looking at this, I could easily Photoshop this out. You're looking at a sky, whereas here is an image that you can put somewhere that integrates better into a scene that actually has some sort of, I guess meaning overall to the image and some sort of aesthetic appeal to it to speak to why personally, I like this image. Uh, it is because it's at a hotel that I absolutely love. It's a silica hotel in Iceland and it's a very cool place. You're integrated into the rockets, rips I blue lagoon. And I think that for me as a takeaway that I've been to this hotel a number of times and it would be nice to have this image somewhere. So that's specifically why I took it and specifically put the effort in to make it look as good as it possibly could so that if we put it up on a wall somewhere, it actually, it makes sense on a number of levels rather than just being a pretty thing to look at. And hopefully that's the value that you can get from this landscape course is that when you go places now, you can just take your own images that actually means something to you. So next we're going to talk a little bit about rule of thirds and just kind of in a simple way, I feel like it's not necessarily a rule that you need to abide all of the time by, but I think it is important to know. So let's, uh, let's go inside the silica hotel. All right. You've probably heard of a rule of thirds before. Basically what that means is that you're never doing a center composition, that you're keeping things kind of off to the side, okay? To show rule of thirds in an actual setting. Essentially what you're doing here is you're making these lines and you want to be placing your subject at one of these intersections. So somewhere around here, or for instance right here, Mike McCauley is standing or up here or here, it leads the eye a lot better into the photo. I'll show you some more examples here. So something like this, having everybody down here, it shows kind of a sense of exploration, the way that everything's kinda coming in and the other element is kind of up here. The people are down here, everything comes together pretty well to do one more example, just something like this that if this was a center composition, Donna would kind of be staring at a wall and by putting her off to the side, even though she's a little bit away from this intersection, I think the image still works really well. The alternate to this is if you are actively center composing people, and while this does work, sometimes it kind of starts to feel a little bit to West Anderson. Maybe let me tell you about my boat. [inaudible] right now we're just gonna do a very simple shot of this lava rock. And because I like to travel with as few things as possible, I don't always bring a 10 stop ND with me, I've actually stopped down to [inaudible], which might be something that with older lenses you might not want to do, but with new Nikon mirrorless system, it is actually, uh, the lenses are good all the way to F 22 moving into light room. The reason that you don't really want to shoot at [inaudible] with a lesser quality lenses, these mirrorless lenses for Nikon are amazing. But if you're shooting a lesser quality lens and you're shooting wide open at something like F 1.4, you're going to get something that kind of looks a little more like this extreme example. They all, all lenses react a little bit differently. Uh, but basically you're going to have that edge creep in and it's going to get a little bit darker on the edges as you get to have 22, you're going to get the opposite where it's kind of a little more white. Again, extreme example, but you will start to notice it with these lenses. Technically, optically, I'm super happy with them. For actual rule of thirds, what you're looking at here is essentially to make a perfectly technically correct rule of thirds image. It would be something more like that where the top here is sky, the middle is grasses, lava rock here, and then the bottom is this blue lagoon water. Uh, that is a technically correct rule of thirds image. The other thing you can do is you can start adding things that again, like going back to this little graph here, is that you want your subjects kind of in these lines along these lines or the exception or the most common exception is if you do want to send or compose something, you really do want to have perfect symmetry on both sides. So this is a very symmetrical image. If I was to take a photo of a person standing right here, I think that that image would work. But in general, you do really want to keep your subject kind of off the center of the frame just to make things a little bit more interesting. In this case, I'm very happy with it. Uh, you could also do something like if you were to rotate it this way, um, that this would be a vertical rule of thirds image that you'd want to keep like this a little bit crazy. I know, but basically you want to keep the same principles aligned, whether you're shooting horizontal or vertical, you want to make sure that you're at least abiding by rule of thirds to a bit of a roller coaster. Now, now I have no idea what reality is because the water is so blue, but you want to make sure that your subject has never sent her composed. If there's too much going on in the frame, it'll make for a chaotic image to simplify images like I spoke to very at the beginning, like shooting in black and white and seeing the color and seeing the composition to simplify things. I feel like this is a good way. So it is a good rule to know, but not always a rule that you have to 100% abide by and you'll eventually just kind of start naturally using it in your photography over time and then there's one, there's a next level to rule of thirds. That is a bit of a spiral, but I don't know if we're going to get to that. We'll talk about that in a video dedicated to it at some point. That's all for the computer. Back to the back to the picture taken before we get back to photography, we have to find the perfect cinematic transition song. [inaudible] what do you think? Let's do cinematic. That sounds good. All right, let's go. [inaudible] we stayed. The mountain is the tap. I say that. Just scratch the fish. Yeah, we started at the bottom with no option but to go up. The reason that I, she didn't live you specifically for situations like this is one. I just kind of want to see exactly what the image is going to be. A, I'm a digital SLR background, so I'm usually looking through the viewfinder and the image that I'm actually seeing through the viewfinder on a digital SLR is not the image that I'm taking on this mirrorless body. The image that I'm seeing is exactly what I'm taking. So it kind of takes some of the guesswork away. And the other thing is that it just gives you an opportunity to kind of see a situations are changing around you so that you're kind of more consciously aware of everything rather than kind of tunnel vision. Exactly. I'm kind of what you're doing and there's a lot of good opportunities around here, uh, in this forest here, forest of lava, lava fields on a forest. All right, moving into the actual camera. I have my camera set to AFS mode and I have one of the front buttons set to white balance and I have one of the front buttons set to control my focus. As you can see at the top there a AFS is highlighted. If I've moved this way, manual focus, if I move this way, they have C and I like to set this small little box that I'm moving around here to be kind of my focus select. So I know that I'm focusing on that exact element there. Another strategy you can do is if you're in AFS and you're holding down that button and you can move through the modes in the front there and something like this just gives you kind of full zone so it selects what it thinks is the correct subject for you. This will also activate face detection and if you're on auto focus, continuous, uh, face detection when you're selected and it's tracking, somebody will actually be really, really accurate on them. For landscapes specifically, I'm going to stay on AFS and my single point here, you can make a bit of a wider box if you're focusing on a little bit more. Um, but I just like to know exactly what I'm focusing on and I don't think it's a negative thing to, uh, just have a smaller focus point to select from. White balance is another thing that I'm super adamant about. I very rarely stay on full auto. I'm usually on natural light auto if I'm outside in the world or on something like cloudy or shade depending on the situation. Uh, as you'll see later in this, I prefer to shoot shade over sunsets because I feel like it makes the camera kind of counters for the warmth of the light because it's not really natural when you get that really nice, beautiful sunset. Uh, so I like to put my camera into shade mode. Another thing we'll touch on a little bit later is if you are in a mode like fluorescent that has a number beside it, you're actually able to move with the front wheel, um, through a lot of different options for fluorescent lights, which are very, very helpful because not all fluorescents are the same. Not all lights are the same. And I find that I can get some pretty good and accurate white balances based on that specifically during blue hour. So something to think about. Don't just leave it out at one and just forget about it. Find the exact correct one and get as much right in camera as we possibly can. So today in this situation, I'd probably just be or like that and I'd be happy with that. And now I'm going to talk a little bit about viewfinder versus monitor and Iceland. I'm going to shoot pretty much everything you're going to see on this entire tutorial, all on the monitor only. But again, there is no right or wrong way. If it feels better for you to take through the electronic viewfinder, that is totally fine. If it feels more normal for you to take images just on your monitor, that's totally cool too. So I'm going to be photographing these mountains and because it is overcast, is holding the tones of these mountains together very, very well. And I'm using my big lens because I want to get really up close and I want to really kind of display the textures. And I'm also because I want to be showing the texture and showing that detail. Um, I'm actually gonna go to F eight cause F eight is great. So even though I had the depth that I had the detail actually process this a little bit soft, this is through my black and white green preset and it really feels almost like a gelatin style print that you might see from, I don't know, like an angel Adams era photographer and I really, really like it. It's a maybe something I'm not going to like in a year and that's why you keep the raw files forever. But for now I'm enjoying this image. I like it. I'm happy that I created it and it's a lot different than the images that I usually create. And I think it's important to experiment in all different facets of photography and bring back what works to the photography style that you actually want to be doing. For big landscapes, you need a big lens, not necessarily physically big. You can go with something that's a lot easier to travel with if you want. I just happened to have this one. I know it's fantastic lens. This is the 7202.8 F L, uh, through the FTZ adapter into this Nikon Zed six. And what I mean by having a big lens for big landscape means that if I was just trying to photograph this entire Panorama, it would look great, but there'd be a lot of different elements going on and competing with one another with a bigger lens. If I zoom all the way into 200, I can make a frame out of the most simple subject that I can see here, which I think usually makes for the best photos. So here's an example of this photo shot at 70 millimeters, which works okay. And here's a shot at 200, which I think works a lot better. It's blue hour, which I actually like a lot better than golden hour, golden hour. I feel like it's very easy to take photos in a, what we've noticed in national parks in different traditional photo locations around the world is that everyone is there for golden hour and as soon as the sun dips down, all the photographers leave, they pack up their tripods and they're out. I find that sticking around for blue hour, you get images that no one else really gets. Now I'm going to take the camera off of the tripod and I'm going to go for a walk around. I'm going to set my shutter speed to something that's a little bit more reasonable. The general rule is that if you're shooting a 200 millimeter lens, that you should be at one slash 200 of a second as far as shutter speed goes. So just to make sure that you're nice and stable and there's not too much blur. Uh, with this VR, the VR, and this is actually really incredible and the InBody stabilization is also really incredible. So I could probably go down to one slash 10th of a second, even at 200 and still get a pretty sharp frame if I wanted to. But best practice always stay at the shutter speed of your focal line. You can also obviously go higher if you want, but as a minimum, stay at 200 if you're shooting at 200 or stay at one slash 40 of a second and if you're shooting a 40 millimeter lens or 50 or 60 all right, so we're just gonna wait for Northern lights. Now, hopefully a, it is a four on the Aurora forecast, which is not super high, but a clear skies. So even if there is anything at all, we're going to be able to pick it up. Basically the way Northern lights goes is that if it's a very, very faint Northern light, uh, you can still run a very long exposure and pick it up and get a pretty good shot, even if it's not completely visible to the human eye. But the obvious best cases, if we can actually see everything and it's nice and bright and it's actually eliminating us in the ground in the water and everything. So, uh, hoping to get some Northern lights tonight but we'll find out they title this section one locations. Just don't work. I did not bring my tripod today cause it's daytime and I rarely need one. So what we're going to do is we're going to crank to F 22 and we're going to add to a one second exposure and we're going to wait for the trains. All right, here we go. [inaudible] all right, one second is too long and the train completely disappears. So we'll try it again with this train man. So this is more of a one 30th of a second one, 30th of a secondF 3.2 and uh, getting a nice trembler. Also we are here on the bridge and there is a lot of bounce just kind of from the physics of this bridge, not being completely stable but the embody stabilization seems to be keeping up for that, especially when it's only at one 30th of a second. I almost kind of want to get like a super wide and get the road down below. What do you want? Why don't trade and we're back Marshall's on the 24 to 72.8 which is probably the best lens right now for Nikon mirrorless series. I do prefer primes, but if you're into zooms, if you're in a 24 to 70 which is a great travel zoom, it is probably the best thing for any camera company in that range. Right now we are waiting for another train which appears to be coming right now and I am at roughly 15 millimeters. Here we go. So that was me working through a situation that just didn't end up working out. I think it was mostly the fact that the bridge is kind of just a slight angle. If it would have been perfectly squared eyes. I think it would've been a really, really great shot. But because it wasn't, it's fine. Spent a lot of time here and tried to make it work. It did not work. No one to give up and know when you keep doing the same thing over and over again expecting a different result that you're just gonna make yourself crazy. So moving on to a slightly better train location on train Tuesday man. All right, we're outside of the East exit of the year. Yogi station, a Yemen Otay line passes here, ground level on the street and I feel like this is a nice frame. People on both sides and hopefully the train goes a little bit faster cause right now it's not really moving a whole lot. I like the chaos of everything's happening up top. It's kind of rule of thirds image where you have a little bit of control and normal list down here. If the train through the middle and then up top you just have all kinds of whatever that is. So Nope, three trains. The shot works really well. I feel like it could work a little bit better at nighttime. So we're going to come back at another time to do the same shot again. Photographer TJ, six dash three dot. Seven let's begin. Ready? Yes sir. Recite your baseline. A system of frames of the yellow mirrorless began to spend a system of frames, interlink within frames, interlink within frames, interlink within one stamp frames, dreadfully distinct against the dark gray and frames through camera. Big frames, frames, frames. Do you use natural frames, frames, frames, interlinkage or leg technology and creative interlay language are linked to Japan and photography are interlinked or language. They're linked within frames. Interlay with the in France interlinked three times within France. Interlink within France, interlink within France. Interlinked. We're done. You can pick up your mirrorless. Thank you. Whoa. What was that? I call this section frames. Frames. Do you use natural frames? Another thing that I look for is natural frames. So right here we have the perfect natural frame of a building, a little fence, little tree, the Tokyo tower, frames, frames. Do you use natural frames? So this is an example of a natural frame, but I don't know if it's the best example I do. Like how the tree kind of tilts in the building. Tilton, everything goes together, everything's angular and interesting. What I don't love is the juxtaposition of the tower and kind of the newer buildings Sewan forbid have a walk around and we found these older buildings and it's very nice the way everything kind of came together here. I would prefer to have also something on the top to kind of frame the image and I feel like it's a little, not quite balanced in this composition, but it's middle of the day we're doing what we can. And the other thing that comes in really handy is using these natural frames and framing out elements you don't want such as taxi cabs and buses and there sure are a lot of them around the base of the Tokyo tower. What we're looking for here is natural frames out in the world and I feel like finding good natural frames just really bring your images to a whole new level even if you're shooting them at 12 in the afternoon so the light isn't really doing anything that interesting. But what you can do is add interesting compositional elements to make a much better photo. If you can also tie that in with great light, like coming back here, golden hour would be great. We have other plans for golden hour. Hopefully they work out today. But uh, for now let's take this photo, this image, it worked out okay. It's not the greatest image I've ever taken, but I can show you a thing here that you can use and other images that are better than this image in the future. So what I like to do is get this graduated filter here. You can also do it with the brush tool if you want, but by just using this graduated filter and bringing exposure down just a little bit, you can kind of drag in a little bit of your own natural frame gradient. You can do it kind of as many times you want. So something like that. Maybe to get started, is there another one up in here? Another one kind of over here. And you can really kind of start to frame whatever subject that you want to have. Basically the entire image kind of pointing out that every good image, you should only really have maybe one, potentially two or three subjects. I guess I, if there, there's human subjects, but for the most part I want the entire focus just to be on Fuji here. So that's what I would do. I don't know if this is the greatest image I've ever taken. Probably not. And probably also remove this in post-production to get rid of the, uh, the sewer cap. But other than that, it's kind of as good as you can do with the image. Uh, there is a lot of data and everything else, but as you start to brighten it up, it really starts to just kinda, I don't know, there's almost too much going on in that image. So my bad for taking it and thinking it was good, but you can use graduated filters to bring in and create your own little natural frames through dodging and burning. Uh, you can also just grab the brush and do an actual Dodge and burn if you want as well. Um, dodging is making an area lighter. Burning is making it darker. Uh, they have dark room history, but for now pretty much you just grabbed the exposure brush. Um, one other thing maybe I'll mention here, I'll, I'm sure I'll mention it again in the future, uh, during the editing section, but to lighten a thing, so usually to darken a thing, I'll just bring the exposure down a little bit and I'll use my pen tool. Uh, if you don't have a small tablet, I really recommend the way calm tablets. Uh, they have really changed my game when it comes to landscape photography. So for just kind of burning in things, you can control your brush tool with the bracket keys and you can add just kind of like a little bit here and make it look a little bit more natural than maybe dragging in a graduated filter, uh, for the going the other way and actually dodging. I bring contrast down and shadows up rather than bringing, just exposure up. I find that when you bring just the exposure up, it's very visible where you made those, um, those local edits. But whenever you bring the contrast down in shadows up, you can kind of brighten things without them looking, unnaturally brightened, uh, such as that. So you can't really tell that I just like went in there and slammed a exposure brush on there. But by doing it with contrast and shadows, it seems to hide it and integrate it a little bit better into the scene. Another thing that would have made that image better is having a polarizing filter. One of the things you want to make sure that you have if you are coming out to photograph something like Mount Fuji is a polarizing filter. What a polarizer does is it essentially takes down the reflection that you see on the mountain behind me and I did not bring one. So we're actually in the parking lot of a camera store and we're going to go ahead and grab a new polarizer for the 82 millimeter, uh, 24 to 72.8, which is a filter size that I do not have. I prefer the screw on filters. It might be an unpopular opinion. They're easier to travel with even though, ironically I didn't bring one with me today, so let's go buy a polarizer and a go photograph about Fuji. Oh, it might be a challenge. So they have lenses, but yeah, I'm going to guess they probably don't have them. Yeah. So this is what I need, but I need it for, yeah, I need it for Navy too. So these are all for 77 82 what's yours? Is this a that's an 82 that's okay. I'll pay him back all the highlights and post some bad news. There's unfortunately no 82 millimeter or 72 millimeter filter, which could be used on the 24 to 74 Kaitlin's does that series a or the 82 millimeter lens, which is the 24 to 72.8 is that as well. So you got your paint back, those highlights and post. I guess technically that doesn't really work as well as just capturing it in real life. But we're going to make do with what we have. Travel photography is all about doing the best with what you have with you. And today we've hiked all the way to the Dakota here. Uh, that overviews Fuji. I'm sure you recognize this from lots of postcards, but we're not here during cherry blossom season, which is probably when you would recognize it. We're not here during fall. We're here during no leaves on the tree season, which is winter. And we're also here at an inopportune time of day, which is approximately 12 noon ish. Uh, the light is not so great, but I'm going to do the best I can. And then in post production, I'm actually going to show you how to make the best of kind of bad light in a photo and what you can do to make your photo a little bit better if you don't have control over the time of day that you're visiting somewhere that you think would be a good photo. Another thing that can make your photos a lot better if you're sick of seeing just the sun as a blob is if you stopped down to something like [inaudible], you make the sun into a nice, beautiful Starburst rather than just that blob with kind of a weird slash through it. Depending on what lens are using. I find that it's a lot nicer if you have the sun in the frame. If it looks like a proper kind of Sunstar and up here I'm not too worried about getting really shallow depth of field, so I'm happy to shoot at F 16 which is not an F stop. I would traditionally shoot at a, I'm also under exposing a lot because the tiles are reflecting pretty much the entire sun directly into my lens, unfortunately, but we're doing the best we can up here and we'll fix it in post. All right. One last thing. If I know that I'm shooting a file that is going to need a lot of help in post production, I'm doing everything I can to shoot it at as low of ISO as possible. So on this camera right now I'm at 100 ISO so that I know that I have maximum depth of field when I get into post and I can drag up those shadows and down those highlights. I don't want this new balance. Spicer, it's pretty great. So this is the 2:00 PM image. I am okay. Happy with this for being at a very inopportune time of the day. The 24 to 70 handled the sun really well. The way that that flares, it's, it's really nice. I ended up staying at F 14 at 16 have been fine as well, but if you're pushing to like F 20 or 22 you're really going to get a prominent Starburst that's going to pretty much take over the entire scene. I feel like this is kind of bordering on it, but I, I don't know, maybe I could roll it back a little bit. We'll get more into it in post production. And I guess as a cautionary tale that this is nice if you can come here, you can take this photo, you can get this photo, but if you stick around until golden hour, so we just literally sat there for like three more hours because we came way too early. This is the shot that you can get and in comparison it is significantly better in every single way. So if you do have control over time, aim to show up to the places that you want to be at in golden hour to potentially be rewarded. But you can do okay things a any other time of the day. Right here at waterfall on, I'm going to show you how to do a long exposure. I have my little travel Manfrotto tripod on. I love this tripod specifically because it fits easily and carry on luggage or on the side of your feet cause I backpack and I have the 14 to 30 millimeter lens. I my Nikon's add six with a 10 stop and, D let's go take some photos and I'm going to be trying to do a ten second exposure. I don't normally like to clog up a pathway for other tourists, but today it's not very busy here. So I'm going to set this down quickly and I'm going to try a few exposures here before a more people show up. This is an eight second exposure, F four 100 ISO with a 10 stop neutral density filter on the waterfall. All right, so that's starting to look really good, but compositionally I feel like a vertical subject should be photographed vertically. So we're going to turn the camera on its side here. I'm going to do the exact same thing just in a vertical frame. Well, I don't have any sort of protection on my camera for the elements. The mist is totally fine. If I was behind the waterfall, it would be a little bit more wet. Uh, what I would recommend though is just finding a good spot to change your lenses away from any sort of mist or a water that could potentially get inside your camera body. Talk about this image for a second. There is a little bit of water on the front element of the lens or on my ND filter as you can see, and I don't really mind that it kind of adds almost to the ambiance. I like to make my photos, maybe not look as that they're just a stock image. I like to have some texture there. I feel like that adds to it. There is also a very strong vignette, uh, the darkness kind of coming around the edges and that is from shooting a super wide lens with an MD, with a screw on filter. So if you want to get rid of that vignette, if it's not something that feels right to you, I might recommend that you actually get the plated glass filters. If you'd like to shoot super wide out in nature while you could technically fix the vignette and post it just, it won't ever look exactly right. The other cool thing about doing a long exposure is as long as the people keep moving the other tourists in the frame, as long as they're moving, they kind of disappear so you can't really see them. But if they're standing still taking photos, they'll just appear there. But you can easily remove people in such a wide shot like this. We will actually do that later in this video when we get to post production. Welcome to the park, Hyatt, Tokyo. We somehow were assigned the penthouse floor. Come on in. I have one important thing to show you. It's this way. Okay. These are the things that I hang. This is the first time I've ever hung anything in a hotel room over here. Marshall's things and in here a motion activated toilet. We've named him Toto. It's also a button. Put that up on the button, put it down over here. That's where you can have your baths. It's pretty noisy. I might start a fire. That's very nice. Oh, hello there. You might recognize me as Scarlet Johannesson in the film. Lost in translation. We are currently in her bathtub to do a lot of exposure with this 50 millimeter 1.8 and then I icon said six of some traffic. So we've been waiting patiently for blue hour to happen. I've been sitting in the bathtub and I'm going to be running an eight second exposure and waiting until the traffic moves so they actually get some lights moving cause it's kind of gridlock right now and everything else you're going to see on the screen for settings. And one big thing for shooting through windows like this is that you really want to minimize whatever's going on inside the room. So turn off all the lights and uh, if you want you can get kind of a lens hood or even a black shirt works, uh, to put over top of your lens in order to make sure that there's no reflections kind of coming in, um, to hit the lens with light in a set, a quick two second self timer. And even though the self timer is gonna flash off this glass when it actually takes photo [inaudible] I'm trying not to breathe even though not holding the camera now. It's pretty good. I'm pretty happy with that. I might try a few different framing options, but for the most part I think that's pretty good. And I think these Scarlett Johannessen bathtub time-lapse challenge is complete and we'll see the rest of the editing later in this episode. Oh, that's way more blue hour over here. Should've been out here before. All right. Same principles apply. Get as close to the window as you and if you're seeing any reflection somewhere over here, um, get something to cover it. But I think we're okay. Um, also don't wear bright clothing. That's a silly thing to, to worry about, but does have an effect. All right. Two second. Self timer, 32nd exposure. And these cars are actually moving just a little bit. So, uh, hopefully it looks cooler and then just tinted all purple to make it look like Tokyo, blade runner nightlife. And here's the final image. Fresh out the kitchen. I'm pretty happy with this image but not 100% happy with this image because the frame, I couldn't frame it exactly how I wanted because it would be impossible to move our hotel room to be kind of symmetrically pointed down the highway. However I am happy overall with it. I would go into Photoshop and clean up the lights of the cars that change lanes so that you don't get those little swervy lights and everything is nice and linear, but that will happen later in this video when we get to editing the time that I would want to use my 14 to 30 millimeter lens is a situation like this where there's a lot of good subject interests in the foreground. This water is really good, not a whole lot going on out there, at least from eye level here and by using a super wide angle lens, I'm really just kind of accentuated in the foreground and almost distorting reality and a little bit of a way that this is much wider than your eyes can see. So when you get nice and close to something, it really does make it stand out in a lot larger than life. This angle right here is pretty good. Uh, there's a lot of waves in the water, so I do have my 10 stop ND filter with me to put on here to smooth out some of those waves, do long exposure, but I think the shot is going to be from this little lookout point over here looking back at the hotel and distorting reality in a way where the water looks large and the hotel actually looks like it's very tiny and integrated into the scene, into the lava rock landscape. All right? So it was legitimately too windy out here to record any audio or really even keep my camera steady, but I'm doing an eight second exposure F for a hundred ISO. This is what the final edited image looks like and we're going to edit to that image in post at the end of this video. All right? You may find yourself out in the field when you did not bring your ND filter or your tripod. All I actually brought was this peak design a sling. So what I'm actually going to do is do a long exposure with a lot of smaller exposures. So I can stop this down to [inaudible], which will give me about a one second exposure. In this lighting condition, I want the water to be a lot smoother than a one second exposure. So I'm going to take multiples. I mean they combined them in post to make a longer exposure. Essentially what you're doing is you're stacking those one seconds on top of each other to build a five or eight second exposure. Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to set my camera to continuous high shutter speed during a one second exposure. I'd have 22 and I'm pretty much just going to focus on any point. Everything is going to be in focus with this wide angle lens at [inaudible]. I'm just gonna hold down my finger and take a couple of frames. It looks pretty good. So basically that's just five frames at second. Then I'm going to combine to essentially make a five second exposure in post. To show you what I'm talking about a little bit here. You also don't have to limit yourself. I stopped at just a couple of exposures, but you could take 30 exposures or you could do a hundred exposures at one 30th of a second so you don't have to shoot at something like [inaudible]. So this is the image. This is the one second exposure. It looks okay, that looks back of a lot better. The blur out here, it is much, much nicer, much softer, especially if you're getting really close up to the water or the water was the main feature. You can really notice it over in this area up in here. Um, let's see. Yeah, a lot better, a lot softer. And again, you don't have to limit yourself at just a couple of exposures. You can do as many as you want. If you want to do a hundred you can. You can do a hundred live your life. We're here at Shibuya crossing a home of the famous scramble that you've probably seen many, many times in all kinds of Japanese Bureau. It's really kind of the GoTo shot and there is an amazing football slash soccer depending on where you live, stadium right here and when it lights up, which hopefully will later today, it's going to be a really incredible shot. Um, right now we're going to actually go down to the crossing and we're going to try a few handheld shots. I'm going to do some longer exposures, kind of embraces what's going on with just the amount of movement, the, the normal travel photography stances that like you wake up early in the morning and you get there before there's any people, but the people kind of really make the shot here today. So, um, I feel like that's what you got to take photos of and it gets busy after like 5:00 PM here. So it's dark, you'll do some photos. Hopefully this turns on right? I'm trying to do a really, really slow shutter speed here. We're going to handhold one fourth of a second. We're going to go lower. Going to handhold at one slash 1.3 of a second. Well, it's sharp. The embodies stabilization is actually really good and also it started to rain, so there's some water droplets on my lens, but I actually kind of liked them. It kind of frames the buildings in. It adds interest to the sky where there would've been no interest before. So sometimes technical flaws and imperfections come together to make a better image. If I had to pick the exact opposite location of this should be a scramble, it would probably be this glacier and this ice cave photographing ice caves. The number one thing that I would recommend is to find and use those natural frames. So going through the ice cave is the most obvious natural frame. You can really find a, we expected to see the ice cave and photograph that, but this was a little bit of a surprise. This looks like an interstellar movie landscape of some sort. Another thing you want to be looking at for is complimentary textures as well as images. So you want that one big shot of the glacier, but you also want some closeups of different elements that come together to tell the story. If you have a space in mind, we're going to be printing these. It's very easy to kind of take those images if you're unsure or if they're going to be for somebody else, they're going to be for sale. I would just suggest getting as big a variety as you can to tell the story so when you get home you can select the individual elements that of ended up working out the best. I find that when you're in the actual space, it's hard for you to decide which the best images, but when you actually remove yourself from the scene, you can view it from kind of more of a third party angle back to the city. Unfortunately this is closed. It's closed, closed, so the bad news is we don't get to ever get that photo again. So we got that photo at one time. Really we are out here at, it should be a scramble, which is the crossing on. A lot of people were here last night to try to get some photos of the actual people. Tonight we're here to get some one slash 30th of a second exposures of the older taxi cabs. So you're doing panning shots as the taxis go by and I'm trying to get one of the yellow ones or the green ones or something that is a more vintage Japanese taxi rather than the newer uh, Tokyo Olympics ones. So yeah, there's a lot of variables, a lot of randomness. It's raining, which actually kind of like, cause it's making the ground here a lot more reflective and bringing the light back up. And when you are doing these types of shots, you either want to put your vibration reduction, uh, your in-body stabilization either into sport mode or off entirely. I turned mine off entirely and I'm just doing my best to kind of keep steady as I, as I roll through. There's a lot of opportunities here. Pretty hit or miss. I liked that one, but it's the composition's a little bit wrong. If it would have been back there, it would've been a lot better but completely obstructed by a van. Also don't feel bad being out here in the rain. Uh, as you can see there's lots of rain on my LCD, um, because everything is properly weather sealed so I'm not not stressed about that. Yeah, we'll be editing this image later on in the video, but for now I'll let you know that I cropped it in a bit because there was a little bit too much Headspace for just stuff to be in there to be very distracting and it's a pretty distracting, pretty bright image and I kinda tried to simplify it a little bit. Here's the full version of it. Here's the crop. I personally liked the crop a lot better. We're here in Shibuya at the all new just opened maybe a couple of weeks ago. It is a lookout point. It's actually open air. So photography wise it is the absolute best because you're not obstructed by glass like this. They were able to give me this beautiful Nikon strap because I didn't bring a strap on my camera and apparently that's required up here. The one corner that you want to take photos from is kind of obstructed. This is the line for the crossing photo. OpenAir will shoot to the glass instead. It's worked out better than I thought it would. Some things started to come together for this photo, but at the end of it it just kind of looks like a massive city with no specific subject rule of thirds. The road almost kind of started to line up but I don't know. There's no specific subject to make it a great photo. I don't think heading downstairs to the main observation deck level that's covered in glass to hopefully get good scramble photo. I think the ideal spot is kind of in this corner and it doesn't seem to be too popular under demand, even though there's a huge line up up there to get the same shot, but you can just come here and shoot it through the glass scramble kind of lines up in the rule of thirds corner where there should be a subject in trust, but again, it's just kind of a bit of a mess. The more that I zoomed in on the actual scramble crossing, the more that it just kind of was hazy from shooting through the glass. It was illuminated from the bottom. I also found it very difficult to frame anything that I would want to frame just by the physical placement of the building, but tomorrow we're going to the Mori tower for blue hour and the Tokyo tower, which is a shot that I've wanted for a very long time. Not designed necessarily for photography, this platform unfortunately, but still I would say probably worth coming up here. Yeah. One of the things that you look for in photography is symmetry and reflections. And you very rarely if ever, find something this perfect in real life. And right now the water is perfectly calm and reflecting the sun off of the water with this little land feature out here. Uh, so we're going to take some photos with the 50 millimeter 1.8 lens and everything out here, it looks amazing and I'm going to try to build a Panorama from it. So basically when we do, I'm gonna start over here and sweep all the way across. I'm going to shoot vertical frames and keep it nice and centered. And as I go across, I'm going to build something all the way across here. Um, one tip for panoramas is you have to expose for whatever the brightest part is going to be and then you kind of have to fix it in post, unfortunately. So I'm going to make sure this photo works and I'm going to start over here and sweep across in vertical mode and build kind of like a 100 megapixel version of this scene. And another thing you want to do is you want to make sure you lock your focus so your focus isn't changing and also your exposure so that everything is good and consistent. It's one other reason to shoot manual white balance as well so that everything just kind of looks good and when you import it into light room and build the Panorama like we're going to do in the future. In this video, everything's going to look great. So let's begin. So starting off over here, it's pretty much a completely black frame, but I do need that because as I get towards the sun here, things are going to get a heck of a lot brighter and that came up pretty good. I'm pretty happy with it. But the downside with all travel photography is that after being in a scene like this, when the image that you take really just doesn't convey the feeling of how it felt when you were there, you will always feel a little bit let down by yourself. But try to let that not discourage you. I am happy with how this came together. Panoramas are a little bit more difficult because if you're shooting them raw, you're usually shooting them pretty blind and you're kind of guessing at what your composition is going to be. If you're shooting in camera JPEG, Panorama style, uh, that's totally fine. You actually get a readout of what it looks like, or maybe you can use that as a test frame, but to stitch everything together and post with raw files is kind of the way to do it, especially if there's such extreme dynamic range in a scene such as this one. But we'll get to that in a few minutes. In the post production a, we're going for a drive through Tokyo right now and I'm doing one slash 13th second exposures at the car window here of again, the older taxis. Uh, I guess this is part two of that series and I'm really enjoying it. I like the, just the random element of the fact that a taxi has to come up beside us and I have to pan with it. And uh, it's kinda like a video game in real life to create art, some sort. And the images I'm getting I think are some of my favorites so far. So we'll see when I get back to computer because when you're in the moment and you're creating, everything is awesome. And then sometimes when you get back and you actually curate what you've done, it's a, it's not as good as you thought it was or that you want it to be. So, uh, we'll see. This one is my favorite from the series a, it's a little too center composed for me. I wish that the taxi was maybe to the left a little bit. I could crop it, but it didn't really, it is basically the variables of driving in a car with another car, moving and trying to get the shot and also trying to get it mostly in focus because they're shooting at one 13th of a second and you're moving in a car that the car is moving in, you're trying to pan. There's a lot going on and I'm happy with it. It was a fun little challenge. I think that I would love to do this more often. Uh, in cities it's, it's actually a lot of fun. Maybe that's the takeaway from this is to also make work for fun, that not everything has to be serious, that you can just go out, you can have fun, not everything has to have meeting and you can practice your skills for whenever this is an important car, whether it's your friend's car, your dad's car, whatever, and you can kind of replicate the same shot. Now that you've learned the skills for Astro photography, well, a wide shot of just the stars is a really beautiful image of much stronger image I feel is if you involve the human element. So I'm actually going to use these pillars here. So I'm going to set my camera back right about here. I'm going to do a six second exposure, a F 1.8 and I got started 1600 ISO and see kind of how that looks and move from there. And I'm going to keep framing around. I have this nice little kind of natural friend. Do you use natural frames? It's coming together pretty good, but I kind of obstructed the part that I really wanted to see behind the T pillar there. But something else more important, we're starting to see Northern lights, but they're very faint. So I'm running a ten second exposure at F 1.8 on this Nikon 24 millimeter ass lens and it starts to look like this. That's where I put an image. Basically what you want to do is you want to turn off stabilization in the camera body and put on manual focus and aim into the sky into what you're seeing is Northern lights. They usually start up just as kind of a faint little green light that you can kind of see and then they get a little bit more intense as the evening goes on. Now you guys might not always see the Northern lights, uh, that if are very dim like they are tonight, that you might actually have to be running a time lapse or at least taking kind of test exposures whenever you see a little bit of light in the distance. It could be a cloud, but it could also be a green glow. And then things picked up a little bit. I was photographing on one camera and I was doing these time lapses on my other camera and I was using the TimeLapse movie mode, which basically just takes longer exposures, whatever you set it to be. So I was doing five seconds at F 1.8 and just letting it run and it pieces together. Movie file for you. It's amazing for convenience, but a negative in, you're not gonna have the dynamic range to process from if you were shooting just a series of raw files and putting your own TimeLapse together in post production. Here's what happened over the rest of the night. [inaudible] [inaudible] [inaudible] [inaudible] huh? [inaudible] [inaudible] [inaudible] talk to me. [inaudible] [inaudible] we're up here in the Moria tower to get the quintessential blue hour shot of the Tokyo tower when it lights up all orange. The rest of the city is blue. The reason we came up here is really for the natural contrast, the fact that the city's all kind of this nice blue gray and then the Tokyo tower really punches out in that bright orange. So, uh, looking like a postcard. All right, so what I'm doing right here, you can see on the screen is that I'm kind of framing at that taller building on the left. I want everything to kind of be as flat as possible and those buildings kind of compete with my main subject, which is the Tokyo tower. And I'm getting just a little bit closer and somewhere right about there is probably the friends that are going to be photographing and I'm just going to do it over and over again because our blue hour is really only 11 minutes long. Um, I'm now going to be moving down to F 2.8 and I'm going to be moving my shutter speed down to one slash 30th of a second. The stabilization in this camera more than makes up for any small shakes that I might have or this really might have. And I'd rather keep my ISO down. Just so that I have a little more data and a little more dynamic range in there because the Tokyo tower is a vertical subject. I feel like I would regret it if I don't do a few vertical frames here. So I'm starting off with some vertical frames. They're a little bit overexposed because I kind of want the shadow detail or access to it or access to more of it. Um, so I'm happy to go a little bit over in this case because I know that I still have the highlight of the brightest cloud and a few vertical frames. So is almost perfect for this. Uh, for this frame, I feel like 24 looks good, but there's just a little bit too much going on. 35 looking pretty good. And then 70 is kind of where it's at. I am super happy with this image, even if it might be considered to be a cliche image, I'm happy that I was able to come here to capture it. At the end of the day, the photos that you make should be for you, something that you personally want to create, something that you want to print. And this image checks all those boxes for me. [inaudible] we're going down to the pool, which is kind of funny cause it's rooftop pool, but you go down, you go to another building, the pool is there. We didn't get a shin Juku city view room, so I want that photo a lot under 45 club in the park on the business every day. Hustle, every day. Everybody left. We're here alone. Here we are in the yoga studio at the park, Hyatt, Tokyo. And the downside is that there's lots of pot lights, so we can't really get a great photo from up here. But I figure if we're probably on the ground that we can probably do a little bit better. And all I'm looking for is eight second exposures to get the traffic moving. We're going to wait until the lights turn and then we can just get a couple of shots and I think it'll work out pretty well. This is the perfect timing. Tokyo Skytree is visible, which is kind of rare from this far away. You got the Tokyo tower, the Como tower got a little bit everything. It's still getting a lot of reflection off the floor. Maybe put the lens hood up and I'm going to get as close to the windows I can. I don't know if that'll be good enough or not though. All right, so lens hood still lets light leak in. No lens hood also still at slightly. Again, I would if I go over here I think that's about as good as I'm going to get. All right, try one of those 32nd exposure and see how it does have a look and then iterate. I feel like we only have 11 minutes of blue hour doing a 32nd exposure. Really kind of capitalizes on a lot of that time but here we are already hit the button. Can't stop it now. All right, so this concludes the tutorial or at least the on-camera section of things. Next we're going to get into the full postproduction of all images. I hope that you enjoyed me from the yoga floor here, park Hyatt in Tokyo. Uh, I'm happy with these images and I hope that are going to have some fun with all of the images that you're provided with. You can download them, put in your email and I'll send you a link with everything download. So check those out and don't put them on the internet as your own images or it's going to get awkward for everyone because I feel like a lot of people are going to be aware of the fact that these images are out there. Welcome to the studio and welcome to the editing section of this video. If you have not yet downloaded the raw files, there is a link in the description below. And if you have not yet subscribed on YouTube, it might be time to do that. We've spent about an hour and a half together already, so hopefully you're enjoying the content and hopefully this is bringing a lot of value to you. Uh, I set out with a goal to create basically the the thing that I wanted to exist whenever I was first getting started in landscape photography, something that was easy to watch that would give me the skills that I needed as well as some inspiration to get out there and start creating more images. The hardware that I have in front of me, I do have a tablet. I love a tablet. I love specifically for travel and landscape photography. I love using this tablet for my wedding side of things. I'm a lot more process driven, but for landscape images and images that are simply kind of that one or two select images that I want to be absolutely perfect. I'm a lot more tablet driven. I'm going to do my best to unwire that and use the mouse and keyboard because I know that not everyone has a tablet. If you are interested, this can essentially, I guess it can't replace your keyboard, but it can replace your mouse. You've got some customizable buttons up here. I find that the medium is the perfect size for me. I had the large, the large, it's a little bit too big to have on a desk all the time. I found the medium as good, the smallest, a little bit too small. This is kind of that perfect size and the main benefit for landscape and travel photography by having a tablet is simply the touch sensitivity that when you go into light room where you go into Photoshop, that rather than just having a hundred percent capacity with your brush, whenever you click that it does that 100% that you can kind of touch things a little bit softer and bring in your own, I guess artistic element to it. So you're kind of drawing on the image with dodging and burning and you can create depth and layers that you really, it's a, it's much more of a challenge to do with a mouse. The other hardware I have up here is the solid state drives that I talked about earlier in the gear section of the video. They are super small, super easy to travel with and very, very fast to operate. When you're with a computer light room has traditionally, or at least word on the street is that it's a resource hog and it slows your computer down. But by using solid state drives, you really do speed everything up quite a lot. And the other mess I have here is a to execute QT readers that are gaff taped to the bottom of my computer. Um, so that's why that looks a little ridiculous because I've literally gaff taped with that black tape, um, card readers to my computer because I use them quite often and I specifically when I come home from a wedding day, I want to get everything loaded in as fast as possible and to have those two readers right there, it really does speed up my workflow. And there's also two SD readers and two USB ports, so well gaff taped on and completely non elegant in any way. It is super functional. So going into my computer, I use light room for, I would say 98% of everything that I ever do. Photoshop, I actually started with when I was like 11 years old. So I'm very skilled in it. But I've noticed the more that I use light room, the more that I can really just do everything that I would require for photo retouching in it. If I want to get into something a little bit more artistic, obviously I have to go into Photoshop, but for day to day for travel, for landscape photography, I would say pretty much everything can be done in light room. Now the other program that I use, you can actually use light room for this. Now light room is getting a little bit faster and it is possible. The other program that I use is called photo mechanic and essentially this program, all I do is select images in it. I like to have two streams of process. So in photo mechanic I make all my selects and then at that point I bring them over to Lightroom. You can do this in light room and you can select images in light room and do everything in one spot. But for bigger projects I like to have the standalone select program and then also my editing program. I feel like file management wise, it makes me a little bit happier but that might be an unnecessary expense for you. This program is wildly overpowered for what I use it for but it's helpful and it's fast and I like it a lot. So essentially what I do is I go through every day when I'm out in the field on my little tiny MacBook air, I have an 11 inch MacBook air and I select the images that I think that I'm going to want to edit when I get home or sometimes I'll do a few just for Instagram. The other thing you can do is if you are using the NAR box like I talked about in the gear section of the video is that you can load up the app and you can actually just go in and download the raw files to your, to your phone and you can edit from there. Um, I've found specifically that the MacBook air that I use and I feel like any MacBook air with the older screen is actually difficult to get color corrected. And I feel like the other challenges that I like to, when I'm kind of doing official final files, I like to be in a space that I know is good. This space here, everything is kind of ambient level, good light. Whereas if I'm out in the field, I'm usually editing in darkness and if you're editing on a tiny screen in the dark, it's a little bit more challenging to get it right. You absolutely can. But I find that by working in consistent settings in daylight and ambient, then I get my files a lot better. The little pink boxes that you see down here, essentially I've just kind of gone through and whenever I select things, you hit one through nine and all of them are different colors, which is kind of cool because you can just select maybe your absolute favorites with a different color and you can go in and you can edit everything or you can just kind of get rid of all the pink ones and only have those orange selects. So all of your options are up here. It's the same with numbers, but I dunno. Colors are nice too. You can also do numbers and colors you can get, you can get very, very complex here. So what I do to get all of my files into light room, I hold command a or control a, if you're a PC user, select everything. Drag it over here, control tab over here into light room, drop it. That's kind of all you can build. Smart previews. I'll try to walk you through as many of the light room basics as well. Smart previews. What I use smart previews for is specifically when I'm outsourcing. So if I load a wedding or a portrait shoot in here and I have a thousand images, I build those smart previews and I said that entire catalog to my editor and they edit from the smart previous, which I believe are between four and six megapixels. And when you edit from those, you can kind of have a full version of the image that you're editing. And then when you export, you reconnect to the original media. So it may be if you're traveling and you want to be editing photos while you're out on the road that you can build those smart previews and edit from smaller files. I find that by not doing that, it doesn't really slow me down too much. The other thing you can do is if you have a preset that you want to use, you can add your own preset here. So whenever everything imports, it's automatically given that preset I find just by figuring out which one I actually want to be using, which is usually one or two. We'll get to that in a minute. But I find by just kind of adding it and then sinking it across is just equally as efficient for me. So I'm going to go ahead and I'm going to import everything. So this is library view. The one thing, the main thing that I use library view for is global corrections. So say for instance, you shot everything at a slightly wrong white balance. I go in here, I select everything and I change the temperature so that everything's good and consistent. If you're in develop mode and you're trying to sync those settings across everything, the problem will be that if I've set this to be exactly like 5,000 Calvin and I sync that across the board, all of the images will be 5,000 Calvin, but if everything's just a little bit too cool, if I sent this gallery to an editor and everything came back and it was just a little bit too overexposed that I can do this and I can click just buttons to do small corrections but global corrections, so it'll take it down 0.3 of a stop or point through three of a stop every time that I click this exposure button here rather than setting it to exactly the number that I'd be sending it to and develop mode. If you also want to get really into file management, you can go into keywords, you can keyword your images so that they're easily to search afterwards. I find by using a program like photo mechanic that I kind of keep things organized organically on their own and I don't have to do that, but if you're somebody that wants to have full control and full access to everything they've ever shot and know exactly where it is, you can keyword and that will speed up your search in the future. I don't use really anything other than this develop tab. I use develop most of the time library. Some of the time I do all of my editing here in develop mode. What you might notice if you are upgrading your light room, if you're part of the Adobe subscription and you keep getting new light rooms, sometimes these presets will be a little bit grayed out or there'll be an italics and basically all that means is that it is a partially compatible file. So every now and then I will update my light room and it will just kind of give me these gray files and that's totally fine. You're still using pretty much the full functionality, the differences that sometimes this profile just won't exist. The one that you're trying to, to go to and it'll just revert to standard, which usually doesn't make that big of a difference. When I was editing this video, I realized that I left out a pretty fundamental section here. So this is going to be the basics. I'm going to talk you through everything in light, the sliders, everything like that. And then we're going to get more into editing afterwards. If you are really familiar with light room, feel free to maybe skip the section, but if you're maybe uncertain about a couple of tools, please stick around and watch. So to your left here, you have all your presets. These are my presets that I've created over time. Uh, you can download presets, you can buy presets, there's lots of them out there. And essentially what they do is they control all these sliders and tone curves in different ways. So moving over into the main section, I would say that typically I don't go too far outside of this section, that I have my preset set up so that it just kind of does everything outside of this pallet that I want. And then I'm able to go in and fine tune. So well a preset would be beautiful if it was just that one click and finished. It rarely is because lighting conditions change, colors change, all kinds of different things. A profile up here is essentially, I'm kind of almost creating my own profile by changing all those settings. But Adobe has some kind of basic ones that you can use if you want. I leave it on the basics, uh, for this little eyedropper tool for white balance specifically, if you're ever just kind of uncertain what it is, it'll give you a little preview. You can see it up in the top left hand corner. They're kind of changing around. So depending on where I drop this, it'll change your file to be that. It actually looks pretty nice to, uh, what this is essentially doing though is kind of overriding the fact that it's blue hour, uh, and correcting it to be technically correct. So I'm not really that into it. You can always take complete control here and change your own settings to whatever you want. Um, double clicking anything at any time kind of resets it to I get a zero or in this case, kind of back to what it was originally set at. Um, this is kind of your shadows tints depending on if you're in different lighting conditions, um, specifically like fluorescent bulbs. Sometimes you need to tweak that a little bit. I find it's easier just to drop the dropper on something like somebody white shirt or a color or a black suit or something that's kind of like that medium gray to make a, a better white balance a lot faster. Moving down here, uh, auto tone is surprisingly good a lot of the time. Um, I'm kinda disappointed with how good it can be. A lot. Like if you're completely lost, sometimes you just click that button and it ends up working out pretty well. Uh, what it does is essentially just changes all these settings to what it believes to be. The best values exposure is your overall global exposure. If you're shooting anywhere camera, you won't really start to see any negative effects of it. Maybe until like 2.5 and at this point you'll start to get some grain introduced and I'm talking if you've underexposed your image and you're brightening it up just with the exposure dial contrast, I tend to not really use this contrast a whole lot. I have a few of my presets kind of set it down somewhere around here and then I add contrast in different ways. That's a little bit more of an advanced, I guess method of doing it, but I find that the contrast that naturally comes out of a raw file is usually pretty good. Adding natural contrast with these sliders below here, highlight Slatter is essentially just like whatever is bright in your frame. If you have overexposed areas or if uh, for instance if there's a sky or something, we can go over here. We'll reset this. Um, so say you have a sky that you'd really want to bring back, you can use the highlights and you can bring that sky back as you can see in the original raw file. Nothing. Now highlights a shadows, kind of the opposite of highlights that playing with the shadows that you see here that you can really kind of get some advanced dynamic range just by bringing highlights down in shadows up like that. Um, whites is a specific control over your whites. You can add, again, contrast kind of with that. And black point is one that I use a lot more often and basically I guess my method to adding, I guess more of a feel to an image is usually by bringing exposure up and bring the black point down. And I feel that is the best way to add contrast to an image rather than just like cranking this slider. I feel like that it feels a little cheap almost and a little obvious. But by doing something like bringing exposure up and black point down, you add a little bit more natural contrast coming down here, I'm gonna get rid of this image because it's not one of my favorites will go to this guy, he'll go to this guy right here. Can you go back to how it was originally? I'm coming down here in two texture. Maybe this is a poor example for texture. We'll go to, we'll go to one of these. Um, so for texture specifically, you can slide up this way to add texture and it basically like, um, texture is a newer introduction into the Adobe light room. Uh, ecosystem and clarity was what we had for a very long time. And clarity is a much more intense adjustments. So if you are working specifically with a portrait of somebody and you crank the clarity slider, you're gonna, it's, it's a really extreme effect whereas texture is a little more subtle. Uh, you can also go negative texture on skin, and we'll talk about this in a second, but if you use the spot adjustment brush and you can actually brush in where you want the texture to be removed from. So for people and for skin softening and um, just kind of working with what you can do in light room rather than going into Photoshop to kind of put the final touches on things, you can do a lot of good things with this texture. It's a little bit more subtle clarity. Basically just kind of like almost cranks that mid-tone contrast really, really harsh. Um, it's good for some things. It's good for this shot specifically, but if you're shooting a portrait, you might basically want to keep this at zero or maybe like plus two or minus two. Uh, I don't really put that too far, but for landscapes they're a little more forgiving because it's not going to be a human that's mad at me. D Hayes, um, is, I'll see if I can find a star photo here. D Hayes is one of my favorites. Um, for any sort of Astro stuff. Um, Astro photography really kind of, it helps out a lot. It tends to, it's kind of, I would say all of these are pretty similar texture clarity and D Hayes, but D Hayes tends to be specifically optimized for any images that you, um, are a little bit hazy, something like this as well. Um, this Astro shot pretty much so you get, this is the basic straight of the camera version. I'm going to at least correct the white balance for demonstration purposes. So this is the more, a more correct white balance. And just by cranking D Hayes, you just get a lot more depth in there very, very easily, very quickly. Uh, and it does a pretty good job. It's not, it doesn't really degrade the image. Um, there's actually, we'll talk about this in a moment, but there's actually noise in here that I've, that I've added. Now maybe there's not, I guess I haven't done anything yet. So there's noise that's added in my preset, uh, because I'm guess I'm cranked 2.5. There's a little bit of noise coming up here, but nothing too extreme. And by cranking D, you just kind of, you, you get more depth out of an image. Moving down here to vibrance, um, I feel like vibrance, where's an example of vibrance that I can use? We'll go for, let me just go for this. So back to the original image here, I'm gonna reset things. So vibrance, in most cases it's going to give you a more natural saturation boosts. So by bringing this up, you kind of bring it almost the good colors. If you move the saturation slider. I tend to see that it's a lot more acidic, um, that if I'm cranking this, it, it tends to almost make things more cartoony, whereas vibrance sticks along the lines of what I would believe to be an acceptable, um, color palette for pictures. So I always use vibrance over-saturation whenever possible. And that concludes the, uh, the top little section here. Moving down in a tone curve. Um, you can play around to this if you want your, if you have presets, there's a pretty good chance that somebody has gone here to, to really make everything as good as it can be. Um, my issue with playing with the tone curve is that it's very hard to finalize and be happy with where it's at because you can make such fine adjustments to it that I almost want my preset to just set it up and then I operate from there rather than me trying to individually control every image like that because it would just stress me the heck out. Moving down to the HSL slash color palette, you can basically change any color that you want. Um, we'll use this as an example since there's a bright ready pinky orange, um, that you can change the color of that red. So if you want to have the Tokyo tower be kind of that weird orange, you can do that. You can crank the saturation of that orange and you can make it a very, very bright orange if you want. Um, you have control individually over every single color. And again, the presets, uh, that I've made and the many other people have made really do kind of go in depth, uh, and make those, the color choices for you so you don't have to go in and change each individual one. Um, there's also, actually I'll jump into this now cause I think it's important for your calibration down here at the bottom. This is specifically for your camera calibration. So if you are using a new camera and you just don't love the skin tones as much as your old camera, you can go in and you can tweak these and then any image that you are importing from that camera is going to go by these new settings. So you can make some adjustments to kind of the Hughes, the saturations, the green primaries, the shadows, um, that is essentially the same as what you can do in here. But it will just always take effect to that camera whenever you import files. Moving down here into split toning, um, what split toning does is essentially it adds either a highlight tent. So if you want to add some, like I'm going to say purples here, do you want to add some purples to all of your, we'll find a better example. Again, if you want to add some purples to your highlights, this is how you do it. So you can change just the highlights. So, um, obviously extreme example, but you can change it around quite a lot. Uh, and then the shadows, same goes. So if you want kind of that like nice blue shadow, um, you can do that, but don't, uh, don't crank it too hard. I tend to find a nice place, maybe just around a little saturation of just yellows. So adding just like a little bit, a kind of golden hour to every image. And then just like a little bit of blue as well. Um, I think something like that kind of fits the best for me. Detail I'm sharpening. I don't really touch too much. It's just kind of whatever default comes out of my preset now I'm pretty happy with it. Um, noise reduction, I don't use it a whole lot. I don't mind there being noise in my images. I actually in fact add, um, grain as I spoke to earlier into my images. But um, if you're shooting something that you just maybe incorrectly exposed and it's after dark and you start to see a lot of noise, one first step, you can make a black and white. If that doesn't, or if that is an impossibility. If it needs to be a color image, you can come in here and you can tweak these around. Um, it's probably worth maybe either just experimenting and if you can't get it right, then watch a video specifically on that. Um, moving down to lens corrections, one that I use a lot is, um, just the distortion here. I don't really find my lenses like fringing too much. Uh, purple fringes essentially if like around the edge here and this contrast point, if there was just like a huge purple glow, um, you can get rid of that and you can customize kind of how to get rid of that. I find that with, um, some of the lenses that I use or some of the lenses that I've used in the past, uh, that I just need to correct the distortion just a little bit. Uh, you can also do this automatically if you want. Um, and it should, if you click that, it should automatically select the lens that you, uh, that you have on your camera and should [inaudible] should just know and it should correct for essentially like vignettes and distortion that is known to that lens. Um, I find that I actually like that natural vignette, so I pretty much always that off. I want the lens, like hover. It's been designed, I want it to look like that. Um, I trust, I guess an icon a little bit more than I trust Adobe or whoever's making the profiles for that. Coming down here to transform. Uh, we talk about this a little bit more in the, uh, the rest of the videos, but here was an example that we use. So this image, yeah, in the beginning kind of looked like that. You can use this to make your environment a little more impressive. Um, extreme example. But by doing that you're taking, I dunno, an image that's like really, really nice and making it a little bit larger. You can also, if you have lines that you're trying to correct for, um, there's another one in here somewhere. So something like this, uh, if you really just kind of have like those weird lines, you can tell it's a wide angle lens shot from down below that you can adjust things. You can also click auto and just kind of see if it's going to figure it out. I would say it does a pretty good job most of the time, but if you're just trying to correct simply because you're pointing up with a wide angle lens, do you want to make it look a little bit more natural? Um, that's how you do it. And same goes. Uh, there was an example back over here somewhere that I used a little bit of the horizontal, um, because essentially I'm kind of a little bit too far off to the right so I'm distorting that building a little bit so you can kind of make it a little bit more so you're almost kind of more square on or the appearance of being a little bit more square on than you are. Um, moving down I also clicked the constraint crop button just so I don't have to worry too much about like usually there's little pieces that I'd have to crop and use the actual tool for for effects. I don't ever touch this. I'm, I don't worry too much about post crop vignetting. Um, I'm build my vignettes as you're going to see with these settings up here. Uh, for grain I always add a little bit of grain cause I actually like the texture and calibration we talked about earlier going into these buttons up here. Crop pretty self explanatory allows you to crop however you want. You can constrain it, you can constrain it by aspect ratio. So if you want to totally be square and you want to move that square round, you can do that, um, angle. You can also, uh, adjust like that. I tend to shoot everything on like the same small angle. Um, you can also use the ruler. So if you have a straight line in here that you want to follow, um, this isn't gonna work cause this is a distorted line. But if you wanted to kind of make it exactly level to that, you can use that. Um, for example, sorry about that spot removal tool. Um, you'll, we'll get into this a lot because I have a lot of sensor dust on my camera. Uh, essentially what it does is if there's a spot that you want to be removed, um, like maybe we'll use one of these rocks. You don't want that rock there. It's gone. Boom. Uh, you can also adjust all these with the brackets, keys to the open and closed bracket makes smaller and bigger, uh, brush here. And that's, that's pretty much global between all of Adobe's products, which is kind of cool. Uh, right eye is not a thing that I've had to use in a very long time, which is great cause I dunno, just don't use direct flash. It's weird. Uh, graduated filters, we will get into this a lot more, uh, over this video. But essentially what I use graduated filters for is, um, as you can see here, um, that it begins right about here. So this is up to kind of like rolling in 100%, 100%. And then here it starts to roll back and by this line it's at 50%. And then by this point it's just not even affecting the image at all. So as you can see, I can roll this kind of back and forth and has that effect. You can rotate it as well. You can put them in any way you want. What I personally use these for is making small natural frames. So something like maybe 0.26 and then I can come in here and I can kind of frame this a little bit more naturally. And well, a vignette is nice. You don't have full control over a vignette. It's kind of more circular. I find that this kind of fits at least what I think is good, a little bit better radio filter, the exact same as that, but you can just kind of do it by a little spotlights here. You can also do the opposite, so you can affect only outside of the circle, which I find I use more often. And you can also kind of build vignettes this way as well. But I personally find using the graduated filter to be a little bit better. Uh, and then moving in here, this is kind of the same thing as graduated filter and the the radio filter. Now you just have all of those controls on a brush. So if you want to bring the exposure down in a specific spot, now you can, uh, just draw that in like that. And if you have a tablet, it makes things a lot easier because, well, with the mouse, when I click, it's just like 100%, whatever it is or pretty close to it. Um, with a tablet and a brush, you can kind of paint in what you want it to be. And you have a little bit more control over everything you do. So, um, those are the elements. We'll get more in depth into them over the next little bit. I'm going to go chronologically through all of the images that we did in this tutorial. And I would say most of the time I'm using my 20, 19 color preset. This might not be exactly what your taste is, your taste might be something more like this and that is totally fine as well. I like kind of the, the grade blues of this preset specifically here. Um, and I'm pretty happy with it so I'm going to be using that. It doesn't mean that you have to use this profile if you don't like when it's a little bit gray rather than a pure black, that's totally fine. You're welcome to do whatever you want. Again, as I said, really edit the images for yourself that you are your end client, you are your end consumer and if you create work that appeals to you, you will start attracting clients that will actually want what you're selling and you'll be able to create and sustain a good visual brand rather than just trying to be somebody else and to emulate somebody else. So this is all chronological order. Um, we went to Iceland first, we went to Tokyo second. What I'm going to do is I'm going to click this 2019 color preset and I'm going to hit command a to grab everything and then shift command S which brings up this synchronized settings. It's also in the settings menu up here for sync settings. You can easily do that through there as well. What I recommend is if the, for the things that you keep using over and over again in light room, if they are a bit weird, a bit difficult like shift command S is a bit of a weird one that I would rather maybe it just be command D that you can remap all of your own hot keys if you want just to make it simpler on you. So what I'm going to do here is I'm not going to be synchronizing white balance because all of my white balances are different. Everything else right now is just a straight import, so I'm happy to synchronize across here for this tutorial. So that's usually what I'd be doing for this tutorial specifically. I'm actually going to leave everything as it is just so you see the before and after versions of everything, but know that this would be the way that I would usually do things that I would come in here, I'd load everything that I need in and then I would find that preset and I would start from there. If it doesn't work then I would switch it up. For presets in general, I think it's important to find at least a look in a field that you like and to stay good and consistent with that over time. I feel like one of the negative things that I see with good presets being so easily available out there on the internet now is that people tend to bounce around a lot and to create a good cohesive style. Specifically if you are somebody that wants to be doing portrait photography and travel photography and different styles of photography, if you're able to tie that all together, at least with a similar color palette, it goes together a lot better specifically on Instagram and in your portfolio. Then if you're editing your portrait photography with one preset, that's a very specific field and your travel photography with another, so I would say keep it consistent. I feel like the presents that I have, you can buy them if you want, but they're not requirement to do this course at all by keeping a color and a contrast pallet consistent throughout your work I think does a lot of good things as well as it almost restricts you when you start flipping through presets and you're like, Oh that looks nice, that looks nice, that looks nice. The one that you usually go with, the one that is the most true to your style I feel like should always win. So hopefully that can at least bring you back to the same couple of presets over and over again. I find that for pretty much all my work this year I've been using my 2019 color preset and I don't even really know how much I'm going to tweak it for 2020 or if I am, I might release a new preset pack in the future, but that's not happening at least for a couple of months, maybe even until July. So as you can see, the front shadows here are a little bit underexposed. So I'm bringing up these shadows. That's not something I usually do. I would say most of the time my preset is a one click and then I bring the black point either down or up. In this case specifically because it is a bit of a contrast, the natural contrast, the setting, I had to move the shadows a little bit. Another way you can do it is actually by coming into here and going into your brush and modifying things locally rather than globally. So a global edit is something from this panel here where when I dragged the exposure it changes the entire scene. What a local edit is. If I come over here and I change the exposure just in the sky here with just the adjustment brush, that is a local edit. So what I would recommend is that if you are ever in a place, maybe we'll start the editing story with us. If you do ever want to raise the exposure, say specifically of these lava rocks here and maybe a little bit over here. The thing that I do to raise exposure rather than just like cranking this and drawing in like it's very obvious. It's obviously an extreme example but it's very obvious what you've done whenever you do something like that. What I find myself doing is moving the contrast down a little bit and the is up and I feel like when I make those adjustments they fit a little bit better. Another thing to be conscious of, if you are making more exposure in places that were underexposed that you're going to have to add a little bit of color back to that. Whether you do it through saturation or vibrance on the other panel, which I think is a little bit better. I've found that usually what it does is it kind of makes my stuff a little bit colder and if I just warm it up like this, just this is just only this brush right here that that kind of gets it to where I want to be. So to change the brush settings, as far as size goes, you use the bracket keys, so bracket left brings it smaller bracket, right? It makes it bigger. Most of the hot keys are the default keys at least will be the same in Photoshop as well. So you don't have to keep relearning things over and over and over again that once you learn the keys somewhere, they're going to be pretty much good across most of the Adobe products. And then if you want to do the opposite, so say you painted a little bit more into here and you didn't really want that, you hold down the option key or I guess the alt key and make your brush a little bit bigger and you can kind of paint this down. And again, by using the tablet, I'm able to control by how hard I'm pressing, exactly how much is being affected. So if I wanted like something to just be 100% effected, I would just hold it down as hard as I could. But if I wanted to kind of paint that back a little bit, I could just use a very, very light stroke to remove some of it, but not all of it. So I'm going to make a bigger brush and I'm going to draw a little bit in here and I'm going to see, I like the natural vignette, kind of how it comes down here, but I think it might be just like a little bit too extreme. I like to see some rocks. Cool. So as a phase one I'm pretty happy with that. I would like to add a little bit more contrast to the sky as well as a little bit more blue to the water. So I'm going to click the new button here and I'm going to reset these. So by double clicking or just double tapping, if you're using a tablet on those, you reset them. And I'm going to try just adjusting the temperature a little bit here and I'm going to see how that works. I feel like a lot of editing is really just kind of seeing how things react and learning and adjusting from there. And I feel like this is doing a very subtle job of what I want it to be doing. But that's okay cause I can see at least where I'm drawing making that water a little bit more blue and I feel like almost this might be a future thing, but I'm also probably going to change the sky up a little bit as far as the color goes. So as you can see if I added the full minus 10 temperature, it might be a little bit too extreme, but I would like to be somewhere around there. Maybe the, I guess the competing element was the fact that when you're out there you want to shoot for to at least get the best white balance you can on the scene. So I was shooting something a little bit more like a shade white balance to get all the rocks and everything, the perfect color. But by doing that it really kind of took most of the blue away from the water here. And I feel like the blue is kind of the reason that you come to blue lagoon. So I like that. I think that looks pretty good so far. I'm going to experiment a little bit with the sky here and see what I can do. I feel like dragging the highlights down in the sky a little bit, so that is obviously a little bit too extreme. I'm going to roll it back a little bit. Something like there [inaudible] and I think that's pretty good. So I think that's the one thing that's bothering me is this little white line through here, but we might go in and Photoshop and fix that and then there's this other little blip over here. You'll also notice over the course of this tutorial that it really gets pretty sad with how much censored us to have on my mirrorless camera. It was really my first couple of trips, I guess we've done some trips in the past. We did like three weeks of stuff earlier, but this was really kind of, it's my first year into the mirrorless scene and there is a lot more sensor dust in those cameras than I'm used to in the traditional digital SLR. So I'm happy with that right there. I'm going to come in and vibrance and I ended up vibrant, set up saturation. I feel like always gives like that like weird like that does not look good, but if you were to crank the vibrance it kind of looks okay. Obviously like you don't want to do it 100% but I feel like vibrance is a lot more softer and less acidic in general. Another thing I'm going to do is I'm going to add a little bit more contrast and a little bit of texture and clarity just because it is a little bit more of a rock hard style landscape. I'm also going to move the overall white balance up as well to kind of rematch for this year because I think the blue is working pretty good. I might even go back here and I might even make it a little bit more Ballou. Cool. I'm going to do another one and I'm just going to see if I had just like a little bit more blue to the sky up here. If, if I'm happy with that. Ooh, that's starting to, I feel like that's too much, but it could definitely, it could definitely work. So something like this and then I'm going to paint it in just a little bit more kind of just around the building here. And I don't mind if it kind of bleeds a little bit into the building because again, I can just hold down my option key, make the brush a little bit smaller and just painted to remove what I don't want there. And I'm pretty happy with that. Right now. What's bothering me on this image is if you scroll down through here is that the vertical horizontal is a little bit kind of wonky that as you can see that this edge is, I dunno like this big, by the time you get over here, it's almost like on this like weird angle. So I'm going to correct that a little bit, but not a whole lot because I don't want it to look too unnatural to how I took the photo. So even just by going down to something like minus eight I feel like makes it look a little bit a little bit more natural and I'm fine with using constraint crop. The crop mode, the crop button up here is also how I rotate everything. So just by doing that I rotate it to be a little bit more straight. The thing that will forever bother me is that I did not shoot this square on, but it's impossible to shoot it square on kind of where it's at here. So I think that's as good as it's gonna get right now. I'm pretty happy with it. I might remove a little bit more contrast just from kind of this area over here and we're moving contrast. I'm just getting rid of shadows. Cool. Overall I'm pretty happy with that image. We're going to load it into Photoshop and a little bit and maybe do something with this little white line next up. This entirely from the keyboard and mouse. So moving the exposure up a little bit and the highlights down a little bit. Just add that natural contrast curve. This is a much simpler edit. I think this is pretty much done here. I usually do play around, just see what happens. If I make it a little bit maybe warmer than it should. I feel like it becomes more of something that is artistic and that you can actually put up on your wall. Whereas if you're actually going for a real correct white balance, it might be somewhere more kind of around there. I'm happy to have it nice and warm and nice and I don't know, it almost looks like a piece of art now, which I kind of like. There are some elements in here that are kind of bothering me a little bit and I wish I would have got a little bit tighter, but the way the natural contrast and the natural vignette come around, I don't really want to crop too much because then I'll start to lose kind of that natural frame. I also like that it's a little bit just off complete center here for the sun. I like to, for things to be just like a little bit broken if everything is perfect, an image looks a little too almost like a stock photo. So I want it to look a little bit more, I guess, natural and real. So I'm okay with breaking things and you'll notice that even if I set up the perfect shot, that usually I'm modifying it just a little bit to make it a little bit different, a little bit kind of my own. If you wanted to add more vignette to anything, I don't recommend using the vignette tool. What I do is I come in here to this graduated filter and I reset the temperature so I'm not adjusting the colors and I bring exposure down just something small and I drag it in like this. And I find that by creating my own vignette this way, or by creating my own vignette specifically with, um, kind of like drag it in with the pen tool here, uh, that that creates something that's a little bit, um, that I'm just happier with. It feels more organic. Um, I don't know if I need it on that side or this side cause it already kind of exists, but I liked the way that it rolls in the bottom here. Um, you'll probably notice in most of my photos that I actually build a little bit of an exposure frame like that. Um, I don't know if exposure frame is actually what it's called, but it's what I've been using and I'm pretty happy with it. I'm good with that image. I might even add just a little bit more vibrance before I, uh, check out of it here. So I'm good with that. Next up, moving into purple hour here, going to click my 2019 color preset and again bringing highlights down a little bit, even exposure down a little bit. I feel like blue hour changes how I edit a little bit and I go a little bit more purple usually. Then I typically would, and I do this for, you'll see this in the night night scapes as well in the city and as well as out here, I'm starting to pick up a little sensor. So if you notice that you have little dots everywhere, like I do all kinds of them, you can use this spot removal tool and again, changing the size. You can either drag and drop it or you can just change it with the brackets keys and doing something like this and just selecting an area that's similar to it is a, is how I hear that there's a, there's going to be a lot of these. Second, I'm going to not do this for every single image because you'll probably get sick of watching me do a basic redundant over and over again task. But this photo right now, even just with that one click preset, I'm pretty happy with it. What it's missing is texture and clarity and maybe even a little bit of DJs just because it's such a distant photo that this is pretty far away. Um, it's also not entirely in focus. It's pretty close. It's pretty close. Um, but five second exposure. Uh, I don't know what happened. Probably just tripod. I'm also shooting the 7,200 on the small Manfrotto tripod that I bring with me really isn't the most ideal solution. So if you find yourself using a 7,200 more often than not, it is worth the money to bring at least a good tripod head with you as well as sticks that can support it. So it's pretty close. It's not exact. Next one's a little bit better. I think. Moving over into the next image, I'm actually going to copy everything from the last image. So if you are on an image like this and you make those adjustments and you get rid of your sensor desks and then you can click to the next one. I'm just using the arrow keys down here left and right. What you can do is you can just hit the previous button down here and it will just copy over all of the settings that you just did. Um, I've missed a few pieces of [inaudible]. Oh, they covered it. Just took a second there. Um, or I guess because I zoomed in a little bit, the my spot removal wasn't quite big enough. Alright. There we go. So I'm pretty happy with this. I think framing wise, let's talk a little bit about composition that I would want that out of it. I feel like this kind of makes it a better photo, although that does kind of work. It leads you in because it is kind of that circular bracket into the scene, but I think I'm going to get rid of it. I'm also going to remove, this tutorial is now just all about me removing sensor desks from my mirrorless camera. So I'm pretty happy with that. I might add a little bit more purple and into the scene. I really think that the purple works well with the mountains. If you're ever looking for an exact perfect, correct white balance, use this dropper tool right here and because you're shooting something that's white or if you're shooting something that's black that you'll just instantly be able to correct to be technically correct for it. And I think that's a pretty good technically correct photo. My color palette, I prefer something like that. Even though now seeing kind of both versions of it, it is significantly different. But I dunno, I just, I just kinda like the like that is technically great. If that's what you like to look at, that's awesome. You're able to add it like that. I prefer something a little bit more like this even though maybe it is a little bit more extreme. Um, again, I'm going to build a little bit of that exposure vignette. I might get rid of the one on the side, but I feel like the water one, it just, the way that it kind of leads into the scene, I almost want that darker water and then I know I'm going to want it a little bit more texture in the sky here. Um, I don't do a whole lot of sky replacements easily. You could just kind of go through and select everything and just pop a new sky in there. But I do want to at least keep some of the truth to the photo. If I was shooting this for a commercial client, by all means like replace the sky and make that image exactly what the client wants. But for myself, for my Instagram, for my sales process, I'm happy to edit with whatever exists on the day, even if it's not as perfect as it could be. I feel like this is a pretty similar image. So I'm going to click previous and see how that works out. Yeah, I'm pretty good with that actually. Uh, you can go in here and crop, so basically it copies over your crop as well. And if you ever want to reset that you can just click the reset button down here. But I almost kinda like what it did. Cool. I'm pretty happy with that. What I'm actually going to do though is I'm going to come down here and as I did with the other scene, I'm going to try to make that line a little bit straighter and I'm also going to constrain crops on, have to worry about doing that so that way it just kind of gets rid of the fact that I was shooting this on a little bit of an angle and squares it out a little better. Um, it's still kinda a little challenging I guess, but I'm okay with it. If it doesn't line your spot up perfectly can come in here and you can adjust where it's sampling from and make something that's a little bit closer to at least looking natural in the scene. And I'm pretty happy with that. Another little cheat that you can is if you want to make the mountains a lot bigger, you can use the vertical transform. Maybe not in this case, but you can usually use the vertical transform to make mountains just like significantly bigger if you want them to be like even that, like that starts to look like an entirely new photo from the photo that we already had. You can't really adjust too much of the, both the horizontal and then also cropping and then also doing this. But if you ever just want your mountains to be a little bit bigger, can you use the vertical perspective? And quite honestly, that I think ended up looking like a little bit better of a photo then that it does. But for demonstration purposes, hopefully, hopefully that was good enough for you. All right. For nighttime photos, usually I'm not going to be using my color preset, although kind of looked pretty nice at least as a starting point here. As you can see, I'm way under, my camera is always set to delighting high, which means that it's actually increasing the shadows a little bit in the JPEG preview I'm seeing, so if I'm shooting and I'm doing test frames, or if I'm looking through the EVF or if I'm looking through the monitor on the back, I'm seeing a slightly modified version of what the Raphael is, which is great for shooting video, but kind of a negative whenever you're in these more difficult circumstances and situations. So something like that. It's a good starting point. As I said in the video, the main cluster that I wanted was kind of right here, but we've got Northern lights and then by the time all the Northern lights were gone, it was completely cloudy again. So unfortunate. The rule for at least me is I shoot daytime white balance. So just the sun when I'm shooting nighttime photos. But for some reason it was a little bit kind of too orangy today. So just by using the dropper tool and selecting something that's kind of that white gray, you can just kind of make a good natural exposure. So adding a little bit more contrast to the scene here just to make those stars pick up. Another thing you can do is you can come in here and you can add a little bit more kind of contrast or D haze. So by using the D slider here, you can add a little bit more to kind of the specific star areas that you want or at least you see have a little bit more depth to them. I feel like just by a few kind of light touches there, you can add a little bit more depth to your photo. But overall I'm pretty happy with that. We went on next Northern lights. So again, just using that natural white or gray or black in the frame to correct for the white balance. Um, there are a bit of distracting elements, which is just this, the city down here, I kind of wished that it was just uh, that had cropped in something a little bit more kind of like that. Not much I can do now because I just included too much of the scene because I really just wanted to get as much as I possibly could. Um, one thing that I'll go over here is one, you can kind of amp the vibrance up a little bit. Uh, and maybe we'll do just a quick little to haze and texture and clarity. You can come down here into your colors and you can actually adjust what your colors look like. So in this case, this green here, you can really kind of play around with it and make it look like whatever you want. Obviously this kind of looks a little insane clips out, but if something you just want it like to be a little bit more of that kind of like Emerald Ygrene, you can do that. You can add more saturation to it, less saturation to it. You can completely get rid of it and you can also make it brighter. So if you want to make the Northern lights a little bit brighter, you can do it by that. You can do this with water. You can do this with any, any sort of color that you see up here. That's essentially what my preset has done is it's kinda gone in and modified the colors to be the way that I want them to be. So whenever you click it, it adjusts everything slightly. But for when images get as specific as Northern lights, the preset is pretty good. Kind of for things you'd naturally find. But for things more extreme like this, it just doesn't really, um, 100% work exactly out of the box. All right, moving into here. Um, these are the images that actually process black and white, I think with grain and the original video. Um, I'm kind of happy with that and this is a time that I'm going to go down here into transform and look at that. You can just, how big, how big do you want the mountain? It might be too big. [inaudible]. It looks all right. Pretty happy with that. Um, it might be a little too much actually. I'm just going to go down to get down to there. I think that looks good. I'm going to crop in a little bit to get rid of just these distractions on the bottom and then I'm actually going to bring down the highlights so that I have a little bit more of this over here as well as my sensor desk that's back again. Or is this a new, a new sensor dust. And I'm pretty happy with that. I think by maybe dragging down a little bit more of a frame you can create something a little more interesting. And I feel like that's pretty cool image and I'm pretty happy with and I feel like this is going to be pretty much the exact same edit cause it's the same scene. So just by clicking previous you get pretty close. And again, not an image that I would normally be creating. I don't think that I'd be posting this necessarily on my Instagram, but I think it's a cool experiment. So now and I'm out in the field again and I see a texture pallet like this coming together, I know that I can add it to something like this so I can shoot that or I can shoot the scene with this in mind. Moving over here into the extreme Northern lights, I feel like, well a lot of this could get kind of destructive to the image that if you're just really kind of cranking sliders, like if you're bringing everything up as much as you can, you really start to introduce a lot of noise. Um, I am kinda fine with that. As you'll see like these presets, every single one of them adds some level of green to the image. And that's kind of, I guess what I like looking at. I like texture. I like seeing the tactile miss to a digital image. So I'm okay adding texture, I'm okay doing things that might add a little bit more green than potentially they should. So what I did there was I tried to drop her and just kind of figure out if there's a different white balance that it should be. But I think I kind of liked the green and again you can come down here and you can, what kind of green do you want? Do you want that green? That green looks pretty nice. I would say as far as what it actually looked like when I was there. That was pretty close to what it actually looked like. I feel like camera's exposed a little more kinda to this palette, but I feel like in real life this is kind of more of what it looks like. So I'm happy with that. Can even maybe experiment with the black and white image of it. I dunno. I think it's a Northern lights image so I think you have to, I think you got to leave it in color. So I'm happy with that. I am actually going to copy those settings over to here and see how they do. It's a little too extreme in a dial that back just a little bit. We're going to start again from the beginning here, clicking there and pretty happy with that. The um, the other Northern lights images. So we're using this Northern lights section officially for a show that we're doing. Um, that will be out in March I believe. So stay tuned for that. Uh, there's going to be a lot more Northern lights in that. So today, kind of the preview in the future, a lot more in depth into Northern lights, um, photography. So something like that. I'm kind of happy enough with even bringing the white balance down. I think what was happening was that because it got a little bit cloudy and it got a little bit green, my camera just really didn't know how to handle that properly. So by modifying just a little bit like that, I'm pretty happy with that. Overall editing, Northern lights, images are really challenging because there's a lot of different colors that you're not usually seeing. You're not getting comfortable editing. But I think by doing a color palette like this and even like this guy over here, I'm pretty happy kind of overall with it. All right. Moving into the waterfall that was kind of way under. It was a lot darker than I think I anticipated it to be when I shot it. Um, but you, you learn more and the exposure I was doing was 15 seconds, but it wasn't really enough to really kind of fade all of this as much as I wanted it to be. I wanted it to be that nice like soft stream, but unfortunately I couldn't really get it to that with even a 15 second exposure. So, um, a little upsetting. You can also see that there was some missed some water on my lens here, which I don't necessarily hate. Again, I said I kind of like the slightly broken element to photos that if this just looked like a stock photo, I could have just downloaded that from anywhere. But by having this water, by having a little bit more texture on the image, I feel like it's kind of a, a more interesting frame overall. So I'm kind of happy with that. I'm going to add a little bit of clarity only to get kind of the rocks and um, everything's going on here. Back to I guess 100% because I feel like it is a little bit soft just because of the water and um, cause the ND filter and everything. But yeah, I'm totally happy with that. I'm going to come in here and remove these people quickly. Not everybody disappeared. I talked about it a little bit in the, in the actual tutorial that if you're doing a longer exposure that usually what that means is that people will just kind of naturally disappear and that didn't happen entirely today. Cool map with that. Again, there are some green in the image and that is simply because actually added that grain the way the natural vignette creeps in, maybe it is too extreme for you. If it is too extreme for you, you can actually come down to the vignette here and you can change it however you want. Um, you can modify it marginally. The vignette is mostly in this case caused because of the ND filter. And I was shooting super wide and it's pretty good at 14, but it does add a little bit of kind of that vignette. But I am happy with that. All right, moving into these images here, this is the set that I am going to combine to create a longer exposure than it is in real life. I was overexposed here simply because I was trying to make sure that I could at least get kind of a one second exposure, um, so that I could do this example for you. So first I'm going to come in here and I'm going to make the exposure closer to what it should be. And I mean to do an edit on one of the images that I'm going to sync it across all of them. I'm also going to get rid of, again, my desk. Uh, I'm going to leave these people in it for now. I feel like I'm gonna remove them kind of after everything and that is totally fine. So I'm happy with the way that this is. I might do this just a little bit by doing highlights only, you're more effecting just the sky. It gets a little dirty in the sky. When I do that by doing exposure, it'd be also kind of including that mountain, but I just kind of want just the sky to come down a little bit. Well, I'll do a quick little look on all of these. So what's happening essentially is that when I'm shooting wide open, because the depth of field and the f-stop is wider, it's letting most of the sensor that's kind of pass without noticing it. But when you go down to [inaudible] like this image here, it really just kind of shows everything. So I'm going to sync this across by using command shift S and I'm going to copy over absolutely everything because I want everything to be consistent and I'll be exporting this and we're going to go into Photoshop to piece this all together to make this a longer exposure. Essentially what I'm trying to do is turn this one second exposure into something that is a one, two three, four, five, six second exposure by using media and in Photoshop [inaudible]. All right, so I'm moving over here into Photoshop. What I'm going to do is I'm going to go down to scripts and load files into stack over here. Real select everything. Align sources because I wasn't really using a tripod for this and create smart object, active loading layers. Click through to this and now it's essentially just going to stack everything together and it's going to auto align everything, which means it's going to change. If something's a little bit more tilted or whatever I might've done that's wrong. It's going to align all of those. You can see I'm gonna have to crop this in a little bit just because it leaves the edges a little bit plank, but right now I'm going to go up to layer. I'm going to go down to smart objects stack mode and click mean. What that means is just going to take the mean of all of these images, which means it's going to slow down this water a little bit and make this a six second exposure. When it does it, I will zoom in to show you how it changes. So now that this is all together, I can show you how things change a little bit. We're at 200% that's why it's not exactly perfect and coming down here, this is what just the single image looks like and then when you click to the six second exposure combination of everything, you can see that things get a lot softer. So if I was photographing a waterfall or something that the water was the main subject of it, this would be really effective. You also don't have to worry too much about keeping this to be six exposures total. To combine that, if you want to do a hundred exposures at something that's a little bit more reasonable, like maybe at four and one 30th of a second, you can do that. You can combine all of those to make an even longer exposure or you can get impossibly long and create like a 10 minute exposure if you want based on this so it's completely up to you. I feel like that's one of the creative things that you're able to kind of take with you and kind of use wherever you see it fit. I feel like this video overall is really just kind of gives you the skill set and at least a few ideas so that you so that you can come back with some images that you absolutely love back into light room. This is one of the more difficult images that we had to take. You can bracket, you can shoot something that would expose for the interior of the ice cave and then also the sky and then also the exterior of the ice cave. But this was a little bit of kind of a challenge to the Zed six and I think like if you zoom in here, you can see a little bit of color noise starting to come in. But if you stop right about there and you come down here to the noise noise reduction, I think you can definitely get away with that. I think that that is definitely a good print. My white balance is kind of way off cause I had no idea. Well I guess there was a lot of challenging things going on. So one we're in an ice cave that, how do you set a white balance for something that you can't really see inside here and then to, it was the end of the day. So realistically it was like kind of post sunset, almost blue hour in an ice cave. So, um, yeah, as you can see, even at 50,000, uh, Calvin, it still looks okay, but I would say something a little bit more like that. I would say bringing the highlights down definitely does not work like that at all. Um, just adding a little bit of sky back, I'm pretty happy with, I'm also going to crop this in to be a little bit more of a square file, um, to kind of just create that natural frame and again, kind of work in rule of thirds here. It's a bit of a weird rule of thirds where the natural frame is kind of the center of the third. Um, but overall I think that's a pretty interesting image. If you wanted to go more extreme, you could definitely bracket and exposure, but I think by doing something like this, I'm pretty happy with it. Um, overall I might even crop down a little bit in the top here. Natural vignettes, natural frames, adding a little bit more of a natural frame here in the corner. That looks pretty cool. I'm pretty happy with that. This is a really incredible spot. I would recommend a hundred percent if you're ever in Iceland to go on one of these ice cave tours and then find out where the ice caves are and then just drive there on your own. If you have a vehicle that can do it the next day to take more photos. Uh, I, that was pretty much a one click. This is just a close up of some ice and I'm going to bring down a little bit more of a, that looks pretty good. Um, I'm going to actually experiment and see if I darken this down a little bit. What that kind of looks like. I think that looks pretty cool. I think it's a little bit more on the abstract side of things, but if you had four or five images like this to put together with your ice cave photo or with this photo kind of after here, um, I think it would make a pretty cool set wherever you, uh, wherever you'd want to put it in your house or to sell it. [inaudible] cool. I feel like that was almost a one click that I like the gray, the boringness of up here because there's so much going on right here. And then simplifying the lava, the vault, the volcanic Ash, uh, is also kind of, I dunno, I feel like this image just kinda came together naturally. Really well. I don't know if I'd want to add anything more to kind of the ice cave here. I might bring again, contrast down shadows up maybe a little bit and maybe a little bit of texture and clarity just to add a little bit more. Again, if you want to get really crazy, you can come down here and you can be like, Whoa, look at how big this glacier is. But I feel like, I don't know, you kind of start to mess with reality a little bit too much and it's not really exactly what it was, but you can can make things look a little bit better than real life. So I feel like something like that I'm comfortable with. I might even get rid of the full stream leading up there and fill the frame a little bit more with just the ice. Cool. Happy with that. Moving on to this big Panorama. So panoramas you want to again, kind of edit whatever you want it to be. So if you want to do, Mmm, for the first time in this tutorial, I feel like the color is not going to be the one that I want. Do I want styled, I'm going to try style. This one is only available on Patriots. If you're a Patriot member, you'll have access to styled and subtle and these ones here and then the destination pack as well. Um, actually no, if you, if you purchase them you get 2018, which has all these 20, 19 and the travel plus commercial, but the other ones are only available on Patriot. Uh, and I feel like something like that is kind of where I want it and I'm going to sync that across. Um, so by going like this, selecting everything and then using my arrow key to find the one that I just edited. Then sinking everything. You could also build this, the Panorama first and then adjust everything. That's fine too. You're basically, when you build a Panorama in light room like this, you are building a DNG file, which is a raw file. So you actually still have access to all this data. It's not like you're just exporting a JPEG and then you have to edit from that. But I think just just by editing and seeing what I actually want it to look like before helps at least get me a little bit closer. So now you're going to click the Panorama button and you'll let it load. All right, our Panorama has loaded and it adds it down here to the bottom of the screen. And again, you can begin editing from this. I would say when you're working with such a large file, because now this is the addition of all of these frames together, it will slow down your computer a little bit. Um, so that's why I like to do my main edits kind of before. Um, I actually kind of get to this point here and I'm going to add a little bit more warmth into this scene here to kind of make a balance a little bit. And I'm going to bring down the highlights a little bit too. I might actually have to paint those back in specifically. That might be a local adjustment, but I'm pretty happy with this right now. Let me read about there is where I want it to be. So that looks pretty good for at least the left hand side section of this. I'm going to bring in a little bit more color, um, and just exposure into the side of the scene as well and then a little bit of temperature just to, to match that. Cool. I'm pretty happy with that. It might be a little too contrast in here. We might have to go into Photoshop and kind of fix this up a little bit. It's not loading 100% yet, so you're not seeing the full, the full final version of that. But um, I can clean that up a little bit in Photoshop, in Lightroom here, the easy solution might be to just kind of do a one click like that and bring the highlights down. That's a little bit closer to what I want it to be. Actually I'm pretty happy with that to be honest. I wish that I would have gone down to something like F 10 F 16 so that I could actually get that, that nice sun flare. But that is all for, for Iceland. The Iceland edits are complete, hopefully. Hopefully you enjoy it. So now getting into Tokyo, Tokyo is a lot more challenging of a city. I think overall to edit to that, when you're in Iceland, everything is landscapes. Everything is for the most part kind of similar, the shady white balances. And it's easy in Japan it becomes a little more difficult specifically at night that you have to select the color palette that you really want to go with. If you just kind of naturally let the photo be what it is, that's fine. But I feel like you can kind of make it look even more how it feels by adjusting colors slightly. So by coming in here, this was the longer exposures that we attempted to do that 80% worked out. Um, I'm going to, so right now this isn't the photo that I want it to be. I'm just basically selecting what I want the sky color to kind of be. And I feel like something like that is maybe what I actually want. I'm going to try the commercial cool as well. May be a little too. All right. We're going summer 2018 cool. And then I'm gonna bring this back to something that's a little more reasonable highlights down to bring all these screens back. There's a lot going on here. And then just bringing that up a little bit. I feel like I'm always adding purple to nighttime scenes like this. And what I'm going to actually do is I'm going to start dragging in Mmm kind of my frames here to start framing the scene a little bit better. And then I'm going to get back to figuring out what I'm going to do with all the lights. So I'm okay with this. There's a lot of distracting people down here that are being lit up. It might be actually like one person, maybe two people. Um, that I'm going to fix that in Photoshop cause it is very difficult to fix here. What I am going to fix though is how everything is overexposed. I'm going to bring the highlights down and maybe a bit of exposure and I'm actually going to use my tool here, turn my tablet back on and then I'm going to just kind of paint in all the highlights that are around here that if I tried to do that and I try to bring the highlights back of the entire scene, the global adjustment, it's going to be much more difficult overall. I'm also noticing that there's maybe even a little bit too much distortion as far as kind of wide angle. The fact that I'm taking a photo and pointing up and everything, the buildings kind of look a little bit strange. So I think I'm going to start with there for something that is pretty good and then maybe go down and basically what I was doing with the mountains, I'm going to do the opposite where I'm going to bring the buildings almost a little bit more like that. And I'm going to try the auto cause I feel like it might just get me to where I want to go cause this is more of a complex thing and I feel like that's good and I'm going to constrain the crop. Maybe I'm not, maybe that's not exactly what I want it to be. All right, we're going to go off. Um, and I'm going to manually do it so that I'm happy with it. It's not necessarily going to be the most technically correct. It's better than losing out on all these slow exposure stuff I did here. Cool. So I'm happy with that. Um, as I said in the video before, uh, the little light spots up here from my lens, having a little bit of water on it from the, from the rain. I am actually kind of happy with, I like again the way that that kind of all comes together and we're going to go on Photoshop and I'm going to change out some of the uh, the people here that I don't really want to be cause I feel like they're a little bit too distracting. And if I replace them with kind of these darker colors and maybe even bring in kind of the, the corner here to make it a little bit more of a vignette, I need to be happy overall with that image. And then I'm going to add maybe just a little bit more to a few of the spots here. Cool. I wish that there was something, I feel like the screen right here is kind of the focal Mark or the focal points of the M of the photo. And I wish that there was something more interesting up there. But uh, unfortunately not today. You can add something if you want, but I don't know what I would add. All right, now it's daytime back to these color 2019 presets and I'm happy with that. The one I'm going to show you a little bit more of is the, the wider version of it and I did not include this photo because it's my favorite photo of all time in the history of time I recorded it or I included it because I simply want to go into Photoshop and I want to fix these guys and remove the things that um, cause I feel like it's a little bit more of a complex edit and I am happy to do that with you guys in a few minutes. Uh, for now I might even come back down here and transform vertical a little bit and cool. All right. I'm happy with that for now. I'm going to send this to the gallery so that I'm able to do some edits to it with you in a few minutes. This guy too. What else did we want to right? Some more outdoor stuff. I feel like this is all going to be pretty much one clicks again on my favorite photo of all time. But just by bringing up the shadows, you bring up the colors and by building even more of one of those frames, um, you can even get more extreme and kind of go over your subject. But I feel like I can add maybe a little bit more just in here. And that's obviously to do with your mouse. You can't control the, how much you put in. So by using my tablet here, I can draw in kind of exactly what I want it to be. And then I'm going to do a new one. And as I said before, contrast down shadows up, and I'm going to do a little more on the tower here. It's getting a little too like crazy saturated with the color that it is. Um, so I'm going to actually roll down, I guess I'm adding D haze to it as well. That's why it was effecting that to be a little bit weird. Cool. I'm happy with that for now. Moving over to this guy here. Uh, same deal color, [inaudible] highlights down and I'm going to paint and around I'm going to remove D this time. The downside is that when you're editing, sometimes you forget to put those sliders back in. Um, they affect other things that you did not intend to be affected by them, but I'm actually going the opposite way with this. Uh, but I didn't notice it doing anything weird to the last photos as I was changing things. So, um, I think that maybe the one that, so these images here, they would have had the D Hayes on them, but I actually think it kind of worked out as a benefit. So I'm going to add a little bit back. So just be aware of where your sliders are at. Um, don't be like me. All right. So I'm happy with that. Going to hold down alt or option, I guess on my Mac here and going to make this a little bit smaller and I'm just going to remove the, the stuff that I drew onto the actual Tokyo tower. You can zoom in if you want more clarity over what you're doing, but I'm pretty happy with that. Um, as you can see having a tablet and being able to just kind of draw exactly what you want helps out enormously. I'm okay happy with that. I feel like this just overall is the best image ever. So it's, um, it's kinda hard to edit, to make a great image when you're not really that happy with it overall. Um, I feel like it needs that top frame that I talked about as well as, um, I don't know. There's just, it's not, there's sometimes there's the composition just doesn't come together the way you want it to. And I feel like this in my mind was a great photo and then I got home and it's, it's okay moving into blue hour, I'm going to try the color 2019 preset and I'm pretty happy with that to begin with. I'm going to add some shadows here and because for the most part, I was just like entirely happy with this straight into camera. Um, that's about, that's about all I'm going to do to it. Uh, there's this green guy down here that we're going to get rid of the Prince hotel. Um, I also added grain to it and a might, I might remove that from this image. So I want it to be a little bit cleaner. So I'm going to remove this Prince hotel logo. But other than that, I think everything is going to stay. I'm very happy with this image and I'm going to do a quick little, uh, see if I bring down the highlights of the sky fit makes it a little more cohesive. I think it does. And also there's this weird cloud here that it's actually not censored us for the first time ever, but it was a bit of a weird cloud. I felt it was distracting and it kind of looked like sensor desk. So I'm happy with everything here. This, um, the 24 to 72.8 is like honestly the best lens. Um, I'm very happy with everything and as you can see, like everything is just so good in this image somehow. So, um, I optically very, very impressed with this combination getting into some more nighttime photos, color presets, still working very well. Um, I'm gonna crop this down. I feel like by cropping it down like that you actually kind of add a little bit more speed to it. And I'm going to add just a little bit. I do this when I do car photos I just add a little bit more brightness to the, uh, to the actual rims so you can kind of see them spinning a little bit better cause they tend to tend to hide, uh, a little more vibrance, a little DJs, little clarity, a little texture. And this is looking pretty good. I don't love the fact that there are a little, I dunno, the way that these dots kind of came together. Um, I guess this is the walking man sign and I don't love it, but I'm not going to get rid of it. I feel like it's still all all works pretty well. I'm actually going to just a little bit more brightness I think to the car overall as well that make it stand out just a little bit better. Cool. Um, and just for experimentation purposes, which I feel like is a lot of what I do here, I'm going to just start dragging some things and to create again, those natural frames. [inaudible] I feel like that's even looking more like a nighttime nighttime photo. You can also start to add some purple elements to make things look even more different. And overall I'm pretty happy with that photo. This guy here, I was in a car didn't really, wasn't really as straight as I guess I could be, but I think that's starting to look pretty good. So I'm going to go into color here. I'm going to actually kind of make it almost look like it's more nighttime than it was. Same deal as before. I want to make the other rims, I guess a little bit brighter just cause, um, that makes it darker. Just a little bit like that. And I'm actually in a tent, this one purple a little bit and I'm gonna throw some purple into my slider here. Um, as I kind of drag things down and then I will be going back in and adding a little bit more brightness to our, uh, to our friend here. Cool. Happy with that. How it's coming together. We're going to add a little bit of clarity. Um, yeah, good with that. Happy with that. You can even make it a little more blue if you wanna make it a little more nighttime, but I kinda like almost the purple vibe that's got going on to it. Moving into the nighttime photos from the Shibuya scramble tower. Uh, I like to make these kind of as blue and city blade runner as possible. So just by adding the preset and cranking the shadows there, you kind of get most of the way there. Um, and honestly like I can probably just go from this preset and again, the 24 to 70, even with the green out of that's in this preset looks really, really fantastic. I am going to go up and exposure a little bit and then I'm going to bring down what's going on over here simply because I think it was an easier starting point that it's a little bit too bright in the bottom here, but everything else I wanted to brighten up. So I'll maybe just go in with a brush and I'll just paint in anything that I want to be a little bit brighter. So like specifically this area over here, these areas over here, maybe this guy over here. Cool. Um, and then back into here and make it a little bit more purple. That's a little bit too, too purple. You've got to find that. Find that happy point. Feel like right there. I'm pretty happy with it. It might be a little too blue for you. It's a little too blue for you. Don't worry about it. Edit it. How you would want to edit. This is also the Excel hotel right here, which is where we shot a bunch of the other stuff from a, if you're looking for a good, a good angle on the crossing that's over here. If you get a high floor at this hotel, you get a very good view of it. Moving over here to new photo, kind of the same. I probably could have copied those settings. Um, I added a lot of DJs and clarity and just presence in general to it. Um, because I felt like it wasn't necessarily that my lens was lacking it. It's just that I feel like by amping that up you kinda changed the photo into something even a little bit better. I'm also going to add shadows cause I feel like you're not really seeing the full scene and I feel like that's starting to come together pretty well. I'm going to again go through and brighten up some of the areas that I feel like should be a little bit brighter. Tower records down here, maybe these rooftops here and Uniqlo and whatnot over there. Um, so this is again the, the hotel on the corner here. So if you have one of these rooms, you have the perfect viewpoint. Um, even more perfect than up here. Cool. So I'm happy with that a more correct and real white balance would probably be something more like that, which also looks very good. Um, you know what, I think I'm convinced. I think that that is a better, I'll go somewhere in the middle of it, but I feel like that's pretty good. Cool. So I'm happy with that. Uh, that's why it's important to click in, just like continue to experiment. The downside is when you just keep finding more versions of the same image that you like a little bit better, a little bit differently. And if you do find that, I would say just export all of those versions and load it onto a different device loaded onto your phone or your iPad and have a look at it maybe like two hours, three hours tomorrow even, and decide which one you like based on that. Because it's, it's hard to sit here and figure out exactly what the best edit is, especially if it's a global adjustment like that. Um, so to load it onto a different device and to get out of this space that you edited in usually is quite beneficial. All right, loading over here to the pagoda again, shooting it up. 22 R F what am I? F 14. So you get this nice, that's nice. Sensor dirt, dust. I guess it's both. Um, so the daytime image of this is more challenging to edit. The ideal is that if you can just hang out and you can wait until golden hour, that is the most ideal situation ever. But if you can't, I think that this preset, specifically 2019 color really does help out cause it kind of boosts the shadows and it gets rid of the contrast that makes this photo almost like unusable in the beginning. I'm going to show you the, so originally this is what it looked like and then with just a few quick tweaks, it's already starting to look a lot better. What I would be doing is exposing and making this look all correct and Fuji and everything looking good. And then I would go in and I would again build my natural frames, um, to kind of frame the image as best as I can. Uh, with a polarizing filter. I don't even know if it really would have helped in this case because the sun is kind of pointed directly at us. I probably wouldn't have done a whole lot, so I am fine with not having one. Um, I know that we made it a bit of a thing in the, in the video, but I think overall it wasn't really that necessary or as necessary as it should have been. Um, and you can kind of see the, on the tower here, the, the shingles might have to go in and do a quick little highlight brush just to see what I can kind of do with those. That's obviously too extreme, but I'm just kind of seeing where I'm painting first. Okay. I think that's probably good as far as area goes. Um, they can still be, it can still be bright, but I just don't want them to be completely clipped out. Something like that's pretty good and I might even see if adding, sorry, adding tint to it. Still adding a little bit of warmth to it, kind of cleans it up a little bit more. Cool. Overall I'm pretty happy with that. Um, I think that it's as good as you can do when you're out there at this time of the day. Obviously best case you can wait around, tell golden hour, but if you can't then uh, then this is pretty good by me maybe into some more nighttime photos of Tokyo here. Again going to crank this up and that's already starting to look pretty good to me. I'm probably going to make this a lot more blue cause it is blue hour after all and I feel like the composition's a little bit wonky. So down that comes up, this goes, I wish these cars would have moved a little bit more. Um, you can't really Photoshop that gridlock traffic. What I was looking for was kind of this sweeping over here and I didn't quite get it on this side, but that's totally fine. Not everything's always gonna work out perfectly. A hundred percent overall. I'm pretty happy with that though. Maybe build out some more of these natural frames with 'em rather than just some different colors in there and it might even roll back the purple just a little bit. Cool. Overall, I'm pretty happy with that and we'll go into the next image. I feel like everything I just did there is going to be exactly what I want to do to this image. So I'm going to click the next button and it's a little bit too underexposed or the black point is kind of one more shadows, less blue and cool. I'm happy with that. All right, last image and then we're going to get into some Photoshop stuff. The last final additions to it and up here care to these guys. Um, what you're actually seeing, I think this line right here is just a reflection cause the, the room we were in was actually really hard. These are the pot lights from the room we were in and I'm not sure what that is, but I'm going to suspect that that is also from the room. This kind of blends as a cloud. So I have to go into Photoshop to do a content aware remove of this and see if that works out. Usually that's the way I kind of start that. I start with the content aware fill, which we'll get into in a moment and if that doesn't work then I get into other versions of it to hopefully figure out something that works. So I'm going to bring some highlights back over there and then I'm actually going to go in and I'm just going to paint this road down cause it's very, very bright and bring highlights down talking about there. It's probably pretty good. Ah, cool. Happy with that. Can I export that and we'll get into Photoshop and figure out if content aware we'll remove this line here cause that's bothering me and a few other things. Moving into Photoshop. Photoshop isn't a program that I use for everything. I try to do everything that I possibly can inside of Lightroom. I find that light room is just in general better for photography. I feel like anything that I can do in there feels natural to an image. I feel like in Photoshop you can get a little bit carried away and you can create a lot of different things that maybe should not exist in real life. There are an unlimited number of things that you can do with this program. I will show you at least kind of my basics today. Most of what I use it for today at least or just in general, is pretty much for removing things from images or patching things up in ways that just light room is just not capable of. Um, so in this case here, what I want to do is I want to remove this gentleman here, this gentleman here and this blue tarp from this frame. So there are a few ways to do it. The one, the one and I guess most simple ways. You click your last suit tool here and you select what you want to be removed and you hold down shift, delete and you do a content aware fill and you hope that that works. And in this case it was pretty close. I would say that that was 90% of what I would've wanted it to be. Um, the other way that you can go into this mindset is by doing the patch tool here. So you click on here patch tool and you select whoever you want to disappear or whatever element you want to disappear and then you drag in whatever element you'd want to replace it with. So something like that, it doesn't really work in this case. Do you also go in here in the clone stamp brush and you can clone him out, which is, I feel like this was kind of the original way to remove everything that if you want that little sewer to disappear, it's going to do that. And then you can kind of paint him away based on what data you already have inside this, uh, inside this frame. So you hold down option or alt to set the point you paint from and all you're doing is copying that small little area and painting over him. So I feel like this is always the, for the most part, the most accurate way to do things. Depending on your needs for the scene, you can do content aware and sometimes it is very good if it's a very simple adjustment, sometimes it's even easier for content aware fill to do it. But I find in most circumstances the cologne brush is kind of what I'm using. Um, and you can also use a multitude of them. So maybe you come down here and, and now you're happy with it. So I feel like that's pretty good. I feel like that's not too noticeable where it's a little more noticeable cause you're staring at it. But I feel like from this distance that you can kind of see a few repeating things. So maybe if you see some repeats, tear it of it that way. And then I would suspect that under here, if you select it correctly, it's probably going to do a pretty good job. I'm pretty happy with that. And then this guy here, I don't know if you can do a content aware on him, if you can be very impressed. Honestly, that's pretty good. Well it doesn't line up 100%. Um, I can go in and I can quickly fix that. But that did a pretty, a pretty good job of getting rid of exactly what I wanted. So I'm going to click the clone brush again and I'm going to fix it up just a little bit. Usually what I do is I find when I'm selecting my elements, so holding down an option to select where I'm painting from, I paint on a lines that I can come over here and I can kind of line it up at least the best I can somewhere maybe like that. And then once you start painting, um, you're actually painting from kind of you've established where you're painting from so you can kind of move around a little bit more. And I'm almost actually going to redo this section here. So what I want is something kind of like right there and just repaint it back in and I feel like that's not super noticeable. There's one repeating element there. Pretty much all you have to worry about is when things look obviously like they've been like kind of pattern stamped, but overall very easy to make those people disappear. All right. A more difficult edit potentially. You never really know until you get into it is, I don't know why I'm using that is potentially this guy here. We'll try content aware, did a pretty good job, maybe come down here to the uh, the patch tool and I think that's going to do a better job in to zoom in so I can actually see what I'm doing and essentially I want to replace it with something that just naturally fits like that. And then I'm going to go in and I'm going to fix the edges with my clone brush here. Depending on the complexity of edits, you can also change the pace city. So if you just want to kind of like paint it in slowly over time and have it slowly, gradually disappear, you can do it that way. Um, the challenging part with that is specifically for the, I guess the presets that I use is that there is grain on them and when you paint in with a brush that's only like 50%, you're kind of covering up some of the grain and adding new grain and unnatural places. And that kind of doesn't really feel exactly correct to me all the time. I also find that it's easier just to go in and just like quickly do this rather than doing it in a enlight room. I'm trying to decide what this is. I feel like this is a reflection in the glass. We also didn't a hundred percent correct for this, uh, for the vertical of that either. Um, try patch tool, try that again. I think that looks pretty good and then go in and just kind of fix the edges cause they're a little, a little crispy. Cool. Overall I'm pretty happy with that. Um, the repeating element that you see in here is actually kind of from the actual image, which I don't love. I'm mostly gonna fix this real quick too. So yeah, this little, I dunno area there, it looks like it's kind of a stamping repeat, but I didn't actually change anything there. So I'm overall happy with this image. Now two more to go. This section down here is something that I would like to disappear and if I do content aware on it, it's not going to work in this case or it shouldn't work because it doesn't really know what to replace it with because it's a, actually I did a pretty good job so it added a rock up here, which I'm going to get rid of and just goes to show you. It's always a surprise with what works and what doesn't when it comes to content aware it. Phil, I'm such a pretty good job overall. I'm kind of happy with it. I don't mind that at all. The having another little rock up there that didn't exist and that's a lot better than the original version, which was this here with this kind of line. Not a big edit, not a big addition, but I think it definitely does add something, pulls the image together a little bit better rather than having something that kind of pulls you out of the image. It keeps it together with the tones a lot better. All right. Moving into the last edit. Thank you so much for sticking with me. In this tutorial. One of the things that I'm going to be doing here is really just removing any elements that caused me to focus on them a lot. So this blue shirt here, just going to replace a little bit with that, that can go away and I'm just using the clone brush for and just kind of lining it up over top of anything I don't want. The one thing that I do for sure want to get rid of is happening right there and I need to keep pulling from kind of different spots so that I don't give it away too much. That was a total giveaway that I've edited this, but maybe something kind of from over here. You can also go through, and again as I said, changing the flow of the brush. It didn't really work out as well as I wanted it to, but [inaudible] I mean it would down here, this is the burn tool. What this does is just darkens corners and areas and I gonna to bring this in a little bit more like that and I feel like that is all right by me. There's nothing else that really stands out. Maybe this foot in here, it looks like a little little too duplicated and while I want it to be good, I don't necessarily need it to be perfect, so I don't want to just like go through and edit every single person's feet and everything in this because I feel like this is good enough the way it is. And this concludes the travel and landscape photography tutorial and you were spending all this time with me. This was not a short video by any means and I appreciate you sticking with it and hopefully you've learned a few things and hopefully you feel a little bit more comfortable to go up there and any scene that you find yourself in that you have the tools now to make the best of it. And if you can't make the best of it and you can't make it perfect in actual real life, you will hopefully have the post-production abilities to make it exactly what you wanted it to be when you get behind the computer screen. I feel like with travel and landscape photography, it is important to create something that actually means something. And it is also just kind of a fun challenge sometimes too. So find your stride in that and whatever brings you the most happiness. Whether it is actually creating those images that really truly means something to you or if it's just another level of something that you can do, you can go out there in the world and it's to push yourself to create something kind of like video game like I spoke to in the character selection gear phase that if going out and creating cool things and interesting things is what you do for fun. Like that's totally cool. Don't let anyone sway you against what you want to be doing in photography because it's not what they're doing on YouTube or whatever. So go out, find what you enjoy doing. Photography should kind of, for the most part be about your enjoyment of it. So go and start to create and just find yourself in as many situations as possible. And when you start to travel to new places and see new and interesting things that inspire you, you'll be 100% capable to get the best image possible in that exact scenario every time. Now, thank you again so much for watching and subscribe on YouTube. If you're not yet subscribed and maybe follow me on Instagram and follow along there. We've got some cool stuff coming up over the next year, so thank you again for being here, and I hope you have a great day and I hope that you learned something today. [inaudible].
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Channel: Taylor Jackson
Views: 809,725
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: photography, photography tutorial, photographer, taylor jackson, photography tips, photography tricks, learn photography, become professional photographer, nikon z6, nikon mirrorless, nikkor, landscape photography, travel photography, travel photography tutorial, landscape photography tutorial, photography tutorials, how to take better landscape pictures, nikon, landscape tutorial, learn landscape photography, become travel photographer, travel, iceland, japan, tokyo, manny ortiz
Id: uPveao-ZOLY
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 187min 24sec (11244 seconds)
Published: Wed Jan 08 2020
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