Ford E350 Tone Ring VSS / Speedometer Fix

[Music] howdy folks welcome back before word III fifty cutaway vans back in the shop I think this is the fourth video now about this truck hopefully it's the last one for a while last time we worked on it we found a few small issues but the big one was the speedometer needle she bounces all over the place I attempted to correct that by replacing the piece on the programmable speedometer odometer module in the instrument cluster I tested the old one on my truck didn't work right I bought a used one installed it the problem remained still had that bouncing needle I found that there was some rust jacking underneath of the vehicle speed sensor in the rear axle and clean that rust and stuff off and reset the air gap the problem remains still have that bouncing needle there were there few other small issues we found that the pigtail had been monkeyed with somebody's been back there splicing wires and stuff I replaced the pigtail the problem remained I started measuring the air gap using some depth mics and I kind of stumbled upon the fact that the tone ring inside the axle on the differential carrier was rusted and I believe it had rusted from the truck sitting for a long time with the tone ring you know exposed out of the oil so this time we have a new tone ring we're going to attempt to install that inside the differential we're also gonna fix the leaking pinion seal hopefully at the same time so let's get to it alright folks were given the screen recorder one more shot and I'm chucking this computer in the river anyway as you guys may know I recently purchased a Pico scope and it's been an absolute game changer for diagnosing problems like this what you're seeing here on the on the computer screen is two waveform captures the bottom here is a known good vehicle speed sensor output from my own truck at the top is the vehicle speed sensor output from the e350 that we're working on and I think you guys can see the difference it's pretty obvious so the known good is very uniform and consistent the truck we're working on is anything but so you see what we're seeing before and then and tech scope the frequency doesn't seem to change at all it is reading every tooth on that tone ring but the amplitude is just all over the map and you see it kind of has a repeating pattern so you got one here one here and if you back up a screen I think you'll see the same thing yeah here and here it's just a repeating pattern so that must be a really bad spot in that tone ring and I suspect that what we're seeing here where there's a bunch of garbage in this section right here that that's the most corroded part of that tone ring see it right here so we definitely have an input problem as far as I'm concerned now I received a massive number of comments in the last video about having dirty power or problems with the incoming power so I took the channels 2 & 3 hooked them up to the incoming power to the P sound module that's this nice flat line that you see up here there's a few little tiny ripples here but nothing to get excited about we do not have a problem with the incoming power or the ground for that matter we have a problem with the vehicle speed sensor so that's all I wanted to show you guys all right guys one more test then we're gonna stop the electronic nerd out so I don't know if you can see it but up there I have back probed into the pigtail for the vehicle speed sensor I've got a lead hooked up to a function generator this is an old one made by BK and this unit right here essentially can produce a wave and we can set it up to produce a wave that more or less replicates the normal output of the vehicle speed sensor so you got three functions here a square wave a triangular wave or a sine wave I think we're going to put it up as a sine wave and then these buttons here control the frequency so it's a decade style it doesn't really matter anyway we're going to be in the approximately 1 kilohertz range and then you can change the amplitude here a little bit shouldn't make too much of a difference there's a few other kind of controls and stuff here does some fancy stuff that we don't need to do like TTL and CMOS and all that crap doesn't matter this thing right here for all intents and purposes is a simulator of the sensor as to see all my scope leads still hooked up inside here there's the Pico over there I'll leave that stuff so we can confirm this when we get done key is on we are going to turn on the function generator it is currently spitting out 1297 Hertz or pulses per second and if we come in here and look at the speedometer you will see that it is rock steady I guess we can start it up and rule out the alternator ripple or whatever everyone was telling me is a problem so let's see there we go everybody's happy so that's it let's tear this axle apart a lot of people have asked me about these drain pans I believe they're made by Lyle they don't seem to put their name on it but I'm pretty sure that's the manufacturer these are special drain pans just for pulling axles they're designed to sit inside of the rim on a set of dual wheels for when you had to pull the axle out of a floating axle okay so the caps are off the bearings here we got to pull this whole carrier out and then we're gonna replace this tone ring now you're supposed to have a special tool the hooks in these holes right here and spreads the actual axle housing apart I don't have that tool but I think we're gonna be okay doesn't seem to be too too awful tight in here I'm able to move it anyway it's got it avoid getting it in our lap [Music] [Music] I'm hoping I think it's loose now I'm hoping that since I picked the frame up and let the axle droop that it's gonna have enough room to come out of here without pulling the fuel tank oh yeah I'll stick this back in here so we don't lose it shame on either side awesome good deal so the shims set both the preload of the bearings and the kind of side-to-side engagement of the ring gear and then we're gonna have to pull the pin out - feels pretty good hopefully we don't mess up the preload and we don't have to use any new shims that's the hope anyway it's only got 40,000 miles on it so cross your fingers [Music] there it is what would appear that we actually got the right part pretty amazing looks to be correct anyway [Music] okay I think we'll leave it believe it proud just a little bit and we'll use the ring gear to push it down yeah I gotta go clean this up though there's some rust on the backside here and we don't want that we don't want the thing to be running out this way either you know this way is a problem but this way also is a problem [Music] [Applause] oh boy I think technically you're supposed to replace these bolts because they have this serrated bottom on them and I actually have new ones but these are in good shape so I'm gonna gonna roll the dice try to save this guy a little bit of money all right these bolts get torqued to a hundred and thirty foot pounds I'm gonna take it over to the vise and do that you guys will have to use your imagination now you are supposed to use new bolts nice thing about Dana Dean is part of Spicer they make almost all of their service manuals and maintenance manuals available for free on their website so you can go download the Dana 70 manual it tells you how to do all your adjustments all your torque specs all that stuff and then it does indeed say to replace these bolts but like I said trying to save a little bit of money so I think we're gonna be all right this isn't exactly a high performance application okay the pinion is out and the pinion seal is out decided to come out the hard way pretty rusty so we got ourselves a new pinion seal right here we're going to apply a little bit of this Loctite v 1 v flange sealant so we'll put this around the outside of the new seal just so we get a good tight seal to the axle housing this is good stuff by the way ok then we've got a socket here should work good as a driver we have to remember to put the bearing in first before we put the sealing very important step well I bought a new yoke but I don't think we're gonna have to use it so these are the same except that they take a little bit different strap kit this one style that goes all the way through and has nuts on the backside where as this one is tapped and just has bolts but I think this old ones gonna be okay you can see a little bit of ring here where the old seal was riding but there's no groove there there's nothing that even catches your your nail so I think we'll be okay to use that over and I went ahead and cleaned up the ears here where the new joint will ride looks pretty good I want to clean up this spot here where this washer sits and then we'll use a little bit of RTV on both sides of that washer because the oil has a tendency to creep out through these splines a torque spec on that pinging that it's 260 foot-pounds I got the big dog and kind of a Rube Goldberg setup here to hold the pinion there it is yeah there we go okay if I would have just looked there's a little D and a little D just got to have them in the same orientation little D little D this one's vertical this one's horizontal can't really screw it up [Applause] and these get torque to 80 there it is [Music] and we haven't changed anything so hopefully it's okay [Music] guys a new gasket for this axle [Music] okay Funko crazy with those I think the torque specs only like 45 foot pounds or something like that we'll check them we'll check the torque once we set it down [Music] all right folks think we're almost done I got the speed sensor reinstalled pigtail hooked up I cobbled together a new strap kit and was able to get the drive line installed that u-joints are good I put a little grease in the caps but otherwise they're fine let's see we've got our new seal we used our old yoke and a lot of this stuff is kind of one-time needs so you're not supposed to reuse the strap kit you're not supposed to reuse the nut on the yoke everybody does it but technically speaking you're supposed to replace that stuff every time it comes apart we got it topped off with oil I think we're good to go should be able to take this thing for a test drive and really hope it works finally oh that's awesome yeah there's too much glare to see the Pico scope but I can tell you that it looks it looks pretty good fantastic man I was really nervous we tried so many things and found so many problems who would have thought that a toner ring inside of an axle surrounded by oil what happened rusted corroded and caused this problem I certainly did not yeah it's Rocksteady let's see if the careers will work oh yeah fantastic all right folks there it is in beautiful higher-resolution right down here is the known good from my truck here's what I just captured on our test drive fantastic it's awesome that we can have a you know some before and after closure like that I love it well it just shows you how important this test equipment really is you know and I know it's expensive but I feel like it's worth it especially get out to my to my own personal mental health I just I hate trying to make a guess you know based on shoddy information so the more data that we have the better a lot of guys have asked me about these probes these piercing probes so I learned about these from Keith de Fazio the new level Auto Channel some of these I have are sold by fluke I think the great ones are fluke and the yellow ones are sold by Pomona I think they're all made by Pomona I will try to put a link to where you can buy these I know Zorro sells them and guess probably where I bought them but I think they're available on Amazon or whatever these are pretty sweet you know it's just a tiny come on focus just a tiny little needle like a almost like a hypodermic needle and you almost don't have to do anything with the wire insulation once you pierce it I put a little liquid electrical tape on it but really it almost seals up and covers the hole in the insulation because it's so small well I don't know I still find it hard to believe that that vehicle speed sensor is so sensitive that this you know what looks like a relatively minor amount of corrosion was able to make that speedometer just go crazy alright folks there you go how to replace the toner ring in your Dana 70 rear axle in order to fix the vehicle speed sensor input for the speedometer and transmission really not too bad of a job I think it took me about four and a half hours all in to drop the carrier out replace the toner ring replace the pinion seal put everything back together ship it out the door and it's back support guys gonna wear this truck out just bring it over to my shop the owner tells me that it still has some kind of a transmission problem I didn't have any issues when I drove it but he said if you make a short trip let it idle then make another short trip that you have problems shifting it shifts late shifts hard drops in a neutral so there's something that we're still missing I pulled the codes it has a vehicle speed sensor error code and I thought for sure I cleared those out before I sent it home but maybe I did something wrong I don't know or else we have a problem with communication between the the piece on module and the PCM that's my suspicion anyway so let's go for a ride let's see if we can duplicate the problem no it seems to be fine try it's good shifts good steering wheels a little bit misaligned but other than that no issues at all so I don't know maybe when it sets that VSS code it defaults to some kind of open-loop strategy or something I don't know I thought for sure I cleared that out well I don't see anything wrong with that it's becoming worse great well I guess we'll go park it and we'll try it again later today and see if we can duplicate the problem this could be real hard to track down if it's intermittent alright guys I thought I would show a little follow-up on that Ford f-150 the one that had all the timing chain problems the owner he basically doesn't want to put any money into this truck it's got a lot of problems that I've been finding as I've been working on it so he basically told me to put it back together and he's going to run it until it blows so what we ended up doing is replacing the guides the tensioner arms and the hydraulic tensioners we reused the phasors the sprockets the reluctor wheel and the timing chains so I don't know how long this is gonna last I did end up having to replace both of the VCT solenoids the screens were actually broken on both of them so this is the right side it's it's blown out there at the bottom so I replace both VCT solenoids it runs fine drives fine it just still has that that cam phaser tick at idle when it's warm and he doesn't want to replace the cam phasers at this time it's expensive I think it's almost $500 for those parts but you can replace them after the fact there's a special tool for that looks like this they call it a piece of cheese you jam it down between the guide and the tensioner arm and it holds the chain you can take that phasor off from the top side we did have to replace the timing cover of course because of this hole that the tensioner arm tried to cut through it I just put on a used cover out of a junkyard and then I had to replace the front main seal and then sleeve the balancer there's a really pretty deep groove in the balancer so that's all taken care of really unfortunate though I found several other problems with the truck while I was working on it I showed you guys those axle seals were blown out the radiator has a hole in it I tried to use my vacuum coolant filling system it would not pull a vacuum anyway he doesn't want to fix it right now he's just gonna keep an eye on it and then it's got a broken coil spring left front coil spring is broken what else did I find it's missing the battery hold-down a couple other minor things front brakes are pooched so anyway I don't know he what doesn't know what to do with the truck I told them maybe we could run it until the next oil change and then we'll cut the filter apart see how much metal is inside the filter if we're not seeing a lot of aluminum coming out of can bangs and maybe it'll be okay for a while but it's it's definitely a temporary fix and this is not probably not the right way to do it I told them there would be no warranty or guarantee on any of this work he just wanted it back on the road to try to get some good out of it so he doesn't lose all his money and I can understand that so thanks guys for watching see you next time

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 127,292

Keywords: ford, e350, powerstroke, vss, speed sensor, tone ring, dana, dana 70, carrier, pinion, axle, seal, preload, replace, repair, fix, psom, speedometer, truck, mechanic, pico, scope, test, waveform, function generator

Id: gxHhNoXcVdE

Length: 29min 59sec (1799 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 11 2020