Ford F-150 Driveline Slip Bump: Two Piece Driveshaft Kit Fix!

hey guys what's up welcome back to the four type make your loco channel so today we're gonna show you how to fix a real common issue with the ford f-150 mainly the 2009 through 2014 models where you have a slip bunk condition within the drive train so what you're going to feel is going down the road let's say you're at a stop sign and you're going to take off from that stop sign you're gonna feel a bump like almost like someone tapped you from behind what was that and then you're going to drive down the road you're the trans is shifting fine everything's great then you come down to a stop sign to stop at it you're completely stopped and all sudden boom you feel another bump behind you like what's going on here well what's happening is the drive shaft as it loads and unloads and it changes angles it's actually binding and sticking and then of course popping so this is common especially with the two piece drive shaft like you see here but it can also happen to the one piece drive shaft now i actually have a video on how to lubricate this what the concern is but that video is like seven years old and i only showed how to lubricate and fix the drive shaft like i said it's way more common on the two-piece driveshaft because of the angles involved here and there's actually a repair kit out that we're going to be installing today which is basically a clamp and some special teflon grease that will fix this slip joint right here what's happening is the slip joint is getting dry a lot of times they don't have enough grease in there the wrong kind of grease and the splines are actually binding on each other and until the vehicle suspension settles or takes off and actually loads up that's when it pops and you get that sensation in the driveline so luckily it's a really easy really cheap fix i'll link to all the parts and everything you need down below let's get started all right so first things first safety you must realize that during the procedure we're going to be removing the rear portion of the drive shaft and between the drive shaft and the parking pole it's the only thing that's holding the vehicle from rolling away while you're underneath it so the first thing we need to do is use a chalk block like that right there we're going to stick it in here at the front of the wheel so it does not roll forward and then we're going to come back here to the rear axle and get that ready what you're going to do is you're going to jack it up right here at the meaty portion of the differential you're going to jack up the floor jack and then you're going to set it down on some jack stands right here and here next to the leaf spring mounts all right set it down on there and that'll kind of hold the truck from rolling plus the chalk blocks in the front at that point what we're going to do is we're going to walk up here and get our trim tool okay and we're going to come to the side of the transmission the driver's side you're going to see your shift linkage coming forward okay you can also put it in neutral at this point if you want but i'm underneath here ready and the vehicle is up in the air so i'm going to go ahead and pop it off of there get in there far enough and pop it like that and then right now we are in park of course so let's reverse and neutral all right and what that's going to do is allow us to um spin the drive shaft so we can get each bolt down the bottom here all right so we'll spin it and get to each bolt so you can zing them off of there all right let's get down to the repair now the first thing we're going to do is we're going to remove this clamp right here the new one does come in the kit so what we're going to do is remove the clamp get it out of the way and this whole thing will just slide back on there so let's go ahead and do that we're going to use get you zoomed in a little bit there so you can see what's going on there we go what i use is a long straight screwdriver like this i'll stick it right into here okay and you can kind of work it around in there and kind of pop it loose sometimes they do take a little tap of the hammer watch the boot though to get in there a little bit further and then you can kind of pop them around there and just bend this back and it'll pop they're not too bad just watch the boot so at that point once thin piece of metal just bend it get it out of the way now inside this boot is where a slip joint is at and of course all our grease and everything okay so this is ready to disconnect uh boot and rear drive shaft and all from the front here before we do that though you must mark this shaft in relation to this shaft it is a balanced unit okay so the easiest way to do that um is you want to mark it only once and you want to mark it you know quite a bit one location only but quite a bit in case it gets you know washed off so i'm marking it all the way back here okay and then all the way down here just in case it gets washed off right here and this will make sure we spline the two halves back together in the original orientation so that it's balanced still okay so we're good they're marked the clamp is off and this thing you know just kind of pulls off of there we're ready to go now what we can do is go down here and unbolt the drive shaft from the pinion flange all right now moving on to the business end down here of the drive shaft you want to make sure that of course the vehicle is jacked up we're chalk blocked and we're safe at this point the vehicle is in neutral we can spin spin spin and get to each one of these bolts dead on straight on okay before you start pulling bolts out again this drive shaft is made into this pinion flange it has a rust build up to it so in order to avoid a stack of rust on there and an actual run out issue is simply again just mark it the relation done and at that point we can go ahead and take our 12 point 12 millimeter socket an extension and our half inch impact we can go ahead and loosen them [Music] all right so now once all the bolts are removed from the the pinion flange here you want to make sure you hold the drive shift you don't want to plan on busting you in the face all right right now as a rough spine we're at the brake but otherwise it's loose so over here already popped loose on this side ready marked we're good to go we need to tap this off and break that bomb though so the best way to do that is to tap on the yoke on the pinion flange side not the drive shaft one right here but the one on the drive shaft or the pinion side i'll show you how that looks so you can see the one that actually touches the pinion flange you want tap tap tap with a three pound sludge something like this while you're holding the drive shaft and i'll show you how that looks let me play it back so you can see it all happen all right so you gotta take it down from here all right so very simple you're gonna tap tap tap while holding it and then we're gonna slide it out just like that and then we're gonna take it boot and all and we're going to slide it out and that's the part we need to grease right there all right now that we have it down here comes the goopy part all right so we're going to get the old grease off of here we're gonna use some rags and really getting those grooves in there we're gonna pull back the boot and get the rest of it out of there and then of course we need to do the same thing on this side you'll notice a lot of times it gets dry uh these this grease went through a couple different versions there's a blue one a green one and now they settle on this teflon white one so this one's not so bad which is good most of the grease is over here get all the way inside of there with your rag and really get it out of there all right so you want to get all the old grease out then we're going to apply the new white grease and get this thing fixed up it's like a five minute ordeal to fix one of these is great so let's go ahead and get the old grease out and i'll show you how to slather on the new grease okay so once you're done you should have you know 90 percent of the grease gone so you can start applying the new stuff you can see inside this side of it it's pretty darn clean it was like that from beginning and this side we had to clean all that grease out of the grooves and inside the boot on here we'll have to do is use compressed air and kind of blow it out of there and do a really good wiping on there i do not recommend using brake clean to clean it off of there usually does not get off grease that well anyway um and also there is a coating on this side of the shaft if you look at it closely you can see it's like a coating on the steel you don't want to ruin that coating because that does help with this lip bump issue also besides the grease all right so let's go ahead and put you up here and i'll show you how to disperse the grease basically what you need to do is give you know i would say eighty percent of it on this side of it and the other twenty percent up top side there so it's a little grease packet they give you is the exact correct amount of grease for this shafter right so again you just kind of want to spread it around on there and keep spinning the shaft and that of course smeared around on there you want to try to get it all worked in the splines on here and not inside the boot all right looks like freaking frosting packet or something much more goopier though yeah so you'll be able to tell when it's fully saturated on this blind side here and then i'll put the rest of this up inside the other side the the joint but basically what you want to do is we have it on there now what you want to do is just spread it evenly in these grooves on here and just keep moving it around you can leave some excess on there of course and this stuff is a really good fix for it had really good luck with this fix this teflon grease so it's worth it and the kit's like i don't know 20 or so and i'll link to the the latest and greatest kit from ford and all that stuff which has been out for many years now uh so they're obviously happy with this latest grease so something like that so it's pretty nice and even and we're good to go and then i'll put the rest in the top side there all right now going back together we put the remaining uh grease packet inside of here cleaned up really well and made sure there's no grease on the outside with the boot and clamp goes on there what you're going to want to do is make sure you have the clamp the new clamp that comes in the kit on the shaft you cannot put it on the boot side it will not slip over very easily okay so you do something like that you see it kind of cocked itself and holds it should hopefully hold the whole time we're putting it back up in there now what's important here is that we line up our marks on here so you got to pay attention to that besides that you're going to slide it in slowly let the air come out and then we're going to get it close enough and then we're going to concentrate back here and we're going to get one of the drive shaft bolts screwed in by hand so it holds it up and then concentrating the clamp and everything over here so have a bolt ready to go i'll get back here sure all right so this rear portion of the drive shaft is not that heavy it's not that bad find your mark hopefully my head's not in the way and like i said there's gonna be a lot of grease right here popping out okay yeah go slowly oh all right looks like we're lined up great who cares let's come over here we'll line up our marks our mark on the pinion flange side and then we'll get a bolt in here one bolt for now is good make sure it's in there though put it in there a couple i don't even screw it in a little bit just like that so we know it's not going to fall on our head and then we can come back over here and check our work so like i said it's going to spooj out of there quite a bit nothing is permanent now as of right now you know the clamps not set the bolts aren't set nothing's set so we're good to go we have an opportunity here to check our markings so you can see right here all the way along we are good to go i like to pull us back just a little bit like that get the grease off of here just so it doesn't leak out of there and kind of spin around shoot out there it'll pop back over naturally in its groove everything's lined up we are good to go we can go ahead and put this back over just like this just like that and you can kind of work it over just like that all right good to go then you can either use a large diagonal cutters like this or you can use the proper ones that actually will crimp this clamp all right so i'll show you how it goes once i get it started on here i'll bring it in and i'll show you uh but basically you can do it anywhere on here okay and you're just gonna crimp that section that we pried on before to open it up and pop the old clamp all right so i had it started it's starting to crimp and collapse we're centered in the groove here we're still good to go i'm happy i'm happy and then we're just going to go a little bit more and it's gonna be a little difficult if you have uh just diagonal cutters but i i did it for years i did it for many many many years uh before getting an actual set of clamp pliers like this so all right i'll bring it in to show you exactly how it should look and then uh how to tighten down the drive shaft back there so it's safe and secure here's a close-up of that clamp i just installed so again you want to verify one more time that your your alignment marks are good to go nice and straight make sure the clamp is centered in the boot there and then you find a little box nub that sticks out there and we simply get our dikes or our crimping pliers on there and we're gonna get it on there on each side like that and squeeze enough so that deforms just like that it's got to form just like the factory one at that point wipe off any excess grease and you're good to go on this end then we'll come down here to the business end what you want to do is use blue medium strength thread locker put a little dab on each one of the bolts thread all the bolts in by hand a couple of threads we're not cross threading make sure you put lock tight on the bolt that's holding it up right now where's it at right there and of course make sure that your um alignment marks are lined up on here also at that point you can go ahead and tighten down the four pinion bolts to 76 foot pounds nice and secure you want to do it all at once crisscross pattern on there do it before you forget it's a very important safety item matrix is good to go at this point everything is back together on the drive shaft side of things so let's go ahead and put our vehicle back in the park all right you can either do it up top side with a buddy or down below like this reverse park this seats all the way back in park and then you simply line it up on there get lined up and then put some good force into it squeeze them together and it will pop and it'll lock back in all right at that point everything's back together back in parks we're safe we can go ahead and jack the vehicle back up get off the ground off the jack stands and let it back down get the chalk block out of there jack stands out of there and go for a drive and test it out do multiple you know stop and go uh traffic and test it out should be good to go for a long time it's a good fix and makes the truck feel like brand new especially if you've been dealing with this slip joint problem for a while that's all for now i'll see you guys next time

Channel: FordTechMakuloco

Views: 78,204

Rating: 4.9692898 out of 5

Keywords: FordTechMakuloco, ford, fix, problem, repair

Id: 0jT4qnPFCs8

Length: 18min 16sec (1096 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 16 2021