Ford 5.4L 3v Camshaft Phaser Replacement**UPDATED FASTER PROCEDURE**

welcome back to the shop today I want to show you a streamlined process for changing phasers on the 5.4 liter 3-valve engine as you probably already know these phasers failed quite often it's a bad design with the locking pin inside of here and the oil pump that's built into these engines and no matter what your vehicle you have oh for 2014 they're going to fail eventually in some every low mileage I have a whole video on how to change these things out / the Ford workshop manual and I'll link to that down below and that's a long drawn-out process though and that's why today I want to show you a streamlined process that's a little riskier but it definitely takes about half the time because we're skipping a few steps but we're also going to introduce some precautionary measures to make sure the cam timing does not move while this is off of there so today we have an O 5 ford expedition we'll be demonstrating this um procedure once the valve covers off is the same for all the five four three valve engines it's getting the valve cover off it may differ from model year and a model so just get the valve cover off and then we'll jump to changing the actual phasor out from the engine okay now the best way I found to do this without the least chance of having an issue afterwards is to get the camshaft on the left hand side to this point and what I mean by that is the two intakes right here okay on cylinder number five they're pointing down and I'd say the eight o'clock position okay but more importantly the one exhaust cam lobe is pointing up with 11 o'clock if you think of it as this top of this right here it's 12 o'clock directly up these canines cylinder heads are at an angle this is called o'clock you want that cam load the lobe to be at 11 and the reason why is because normally you would take out be roller followers for three valves that are going to be an issue when we're at this position as far as possibly under tension and can't kick the cam over and out of time okay only three the rest of these cam lobes on here all the way down are in pretty much a neutral position at this point you'd be even look at and they're there you know I'm base circle or coming off a base circle so just those three might have an issue so it's less of a chance of this cam whenever we pull off the phaser so for the driver's side ahead you're going to want just like this exhaust camshaft lobe 11 o'clock you can go ahead and start changing the phasor out now as far as the passenger side goes you want the intake camshaft lobe these two right here at the one o'clock position this one is heading towards two but you get the idea these two at the one o'clock position with this right here up and down being 12 okay at this point our camshaft is in the proper position it's more of a neutral position so we can go ahead and stick our piece of cheese down into the timing chain area here to wedge it and hold it in place all I pull the phaser off now you don't need to pull the front the whole front cover off like this this is part of a whole timing job I'm doing on this vehicle so this is great though for demonstration purposes you can really see what's going on with this piece of cheese and how it feels and how to stick it into there so basically you're going to do is you're come up through the valve cover area there we pulled it off and you have a little pocket here okay and you're going to match that angle up and you're going to come in behind here okay and get it down in there and it's going to tight but once you get it past that area you're good and then you're going to feed it down in here and you'll be able to see some of this up inside of there okay basically it's made to go down in here and at an angle like get a little bit angle going there it'll go down in there your little end of it there I like to do that really wet it in there okay so what it's doing is this pinching the chain right here while pressing against both the guides and it holds it from this point on so everything down below retains its tension and everything up here can flop around while you get the phaser off works off great and the kits not that much I'll link to it down below for you guys so you know exactly what to get now at this point we can go ahead and start taking our phaser off now there's one last step I like to do before taking this phaser off of here and that is to measure the depth on the backside of the phaser to the cam cap and I also clean off the cam and then Mark the relation on there just in case it can goes whoop like that it pops over we know which direction it went based on position of the the white marking on there if went to the left or right so will the market and we'll measure it I'll show you that too on the backside of the phaser here where it mounts up to the camshaft what you want to do is measure the backing plate to the front of the cam the first cam cap right that's the easiest way to get a measurement off of there now the reason being is because a lot of people they Jam these things on there they find it hard to get it on there and lamp that locking pin and the backside of phase where it sticks into the camshaft and they miss align it or they shear it off the breaker they smash it or something and there was come to me with problems well what I do in general is I'll either measure it or I'll spin it around and look at it and make sure that everything looks right on here you can see this line right here on there you can look at it easily and see if it's cocked on there but the easier way to do it and you get an actual measurement measurement to make sure you're fully onto the camshaft and the pins fully inserted is to get a measurement before you ever take it off of there so we'll just do it as close as possible and let's see what I got on mine the 25 26 millimeters that's what I have and this is an original one that's installed correctly no issues so you want to take that measurement and make sure you're fully back onto the camshaft if we're ever snug down that bolt and ruin the pin on there now the other thing I do bust out the old grit clean okay we're going to clean off the cam cap here and sure the first lobe on here okay we're going to make a paint mark on here across to okay so you can see exactly where they should be going back together in this way if this cam pops over left and right it's gonna happen so fast you'll never be able to see where it went you'll be guessing you could there's so many cam lobes you'll be guessing believe me unless you got it on camera so this way we know what direction have popped over to once we were sheriff analysis phase around here so at this point we have our measurement 26 millimeters we have our marking our cheese is wedged in there so it holds a chain we can start taking this thing off that's all there is to it this is a quick method it's a little more risky but these are some precautionary measures B we can do to make sure there's no problems afterwards okay one last marking on here what you're going to want to do is mark the tiny chain to the camshaft phasor relation on here now you can make mark it anywhere on there but if the transfer those marks over to the new phasor and line them up so the best way to do it is to make sure you mark one of the tiny marks on here to the phasor relation that way it's constant on both the old and the new phasor and you just simply line it up and ain't that hard so we'll be picking the R on here as our relation little brake clean on there make sure a paint pen actually sticks and you can mark that but the way you're concentrating on is getting this link all painted up just the one link is directly in line with right now not doing is weird overlapping stuff sometimes just in case hands get dirty and wipe it off of there I'll paint all the way around look how bad these are this is what I'm doing timing on this one you see how loose these links are on here and I think it's just worn out of this engine but this is a good demonstration vehicle for you guys all right we're all paint it up at this point it's a good idea to make sure your cheese it's still wedged in there looks good and we'll zing this thing off of here it's a 15 mil make sure our verse okay bleeder okay so at that point at this point you can take it off of there okay young and then you simply blocking the light there is simply leave a little they go okay see this being very gentle not to disturb that camshaft okay like that and then you'll be able to drop it down in there and work this up and off of there and pull the phaser out and here's that little pin now talking about you need to make sure it's lined up with that groove in the cam as you can see right now it's the camp's free darn stable being there's only three that under tension right now so this would normally just get flock over to the side there and you just leave it there until you're ready for your new camshaft phasor okay now going back in you ready to know the R for my current setup is the time mark on there so you can kind of just get it down in here okay and get this chain out of the way and they can start lining up the mark on there now you're going to go down in here and line up our paint mark okay get all that set get all the teeth in there just like so and then you come around the back side here and you make sure you can line it up in there it's give me a tight fit now move it back and forth just a little bit and then once you know you got it lined up on there what's going to help is your phaser bolt they'll start sucking it back nice neatly I almost like pressing it out of there now I'm reusing the old Phaedra Bowl because this is just for demonstration but make sure you put a new one in there it comes in the kit okay so we're lined up on there keep tightening this phase or bolt up okay you see how straighten it out on there and that'll help us line everything up on here now at this point it's neat tight but I can look behind here and I could see it's going into the groove on there and boom I had a dead stop all by hand no chance of shearing off that nub on there if we line it up and we do it by hands well no it's seating on there so real quick same thing as before before even tighten it we can check we have that measurement let me know we're on there all the way now at this point the the phaser is made it to the camshaft okay so it is part of it now on the phasers holding out I can't fall off timing it's on each one of the gears in here perfectly okay you can now concentrate I'm getting this cheese out of here because if you go ahead and you start torquing this down and then torque to yielding it which is stretching it you might watch your cheese in here where it's so hard to get out of there so let's get it out here now as you'll see it's took me a pain but most cases it comes out just like that and then you just wiggle past all this here once again okay real quick on the backside here just to show you up close you can see that line is parallel running parallel to the camshaft sprocket there the phaser and it's not cocked in there plus we measured it and like I said you'll be able to see the phase you're getting almost pressed on to there and that little gap in there gone now over here like I said get the paint off of there the engine oil on these lobes going back together and you'll be good to go okay are these back together and gold the last thing you got to do is torque these down to 30 foot-pounds perfect and then we're going to go ahead and turn this bolt an additional 90 degrees to stretch it out for the torque to yield feature on there so we'll clean off the grease on there oil will mark it and this is worth one of those finer tipped paint pens come in handy basically up and down and then you simply turn it and additional 90 just keep checking it make sure you don't go too far this is an exact science but you do want to get there more hit a compression stroke there go ahead get your paint off of here and that's all there is to it everything's changed out torque down right and tight everything's cleaned up and oiled up at this point you can go ahead and put your valve cover back on and make sure you put some engine sealant right here where the T joint is between the front cover which mine is missing and the cylinder has a little bit of sealant right through some engine sealing I'll link to it down below the good stuff besides that though that's that's how quick you can change one of these out if you follow these procedures and avoid a few of the other steps that Ford has us doing that can be a really really quick procedure and you can get rid of that friggin annoying knocking noise once and all now my advice in general is after you do what change money's out is to change your oil over to five thirty a lot of guys have run five thirty since brand-new and these fazer we're concerns do not happen so there's something to it being the thicker oil and I have an aware issues same reason they run hotter oil or a thicker oil in turbo base engines for the durability and extra added protection so give it a thought I'm doing it on this one and I do it on all my customers vehicles hope this helps

Channel: FordTechMakuloco

Views: 644,446

Keywords: ford, f-150, how, to, repair, diy, Ford, Motor, Company, (Automobile, Company), 5.4l, 3v, phasers, procedure

Id: UBQHQmm2RMs

Length: 17min 25sec (1045 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 17 2016