How to Repair and Remove Dents from your Car (DIY)

Hey guys ChrisFix here and today I'm going to  show you how to remove dents from your car!  Now I have no clue what the previous  owner did to get all these dents,  but that's okay because it gives  me the opportunity to show you guys  how to remove dents and make this perfectly smooth so you would never even know there  are any dents here in the first place.  Now there are two main methods  to remove dents from your car...  First is a paintless dent  removal kit (PDR) like this  and if you have shallow non-sharp dents this kit  can help remove those or make them less visible  without having to spray paint your car so what you do is add some hot glue to   the puller tab from the kit and place that in the dent  then you take the slide hammer  attachment and pull the dent outwards...  This is not as easy as it looks  and it takes a lot of practice and then if you pull this dent  out too far like I just did,  you're able to lightly tap the dent  back in with a plastic coated hammer  and try to make that dent even with the rest of  the body panel again it's not easy to do and it   doesn't work on every dent but with practice  you could get decent results now unfortunately   paintless dent removal won't work for these dents  because we have some deep dents that are pretty   sharp so that metal is really bent and it'll  be hard to massage that so it's flat again also   you can see all these dents have damage to the  paintwork in them so even if we did get the dents   out we'd still have all this damage here so we'd  have to paint the car anyway so since we can't   use paintless dent removal to remove these dents  the other common method to remove dents is to use   a pro grade body filler and with this there are  three simple steps to remove these dents first you   prep the dents by sanding them down to bare metal  then you fill the dents with the pro grade body   filler and finally you sand it down so it's smooth  and even with the rest of the panel now that   leaves you with a smooth but unfinished surface  so you'd have to either take it to a paint guy   or you could paint it yourself at home and that's  exactly what we're gonna do i'm gonna show you how   to paint it and make it look absolutely amazing  so let's get started and now here's everything   you're gonna need to repair the dents in your car  as usual i like to use common hand tools and easy   to find products that give you great results so  you could get this job done at home yourself no   problem at all so first we're gonna need our pro  grade body filler and pro grade glazing putty   these are professional grade products so they're  going to give you amazing results if you use them   properly and i'm going to teach you how to use  them properly then we need some sandpaper all the   way from 80 grit up to 5000 grit then we have our  spreaders we have our sanding block tack cloth we   have our tape and isopropyl alcohol now i did say  we are going to spray paint at home and i wasn't   kidding we're using spray cans but we're going  to get amazing results i can't wait to show you   so we need our primer our base coat which is our  color coat and this is color coded to our car i'll   show you how to find that on your car and then we  have our automotive 2k clear coat after this dries   we're gonna wet sand and then compound and polish  to get that amazing glossy finish that looks like   the rest of the car now safety is very important  so make sure you're wearing at least an n95 dust   mask when you're sanding and make sure you get  your safety glasses on and then when you're spray   painting it's very important to use a full face  respirator with organic filters so you're not   breathing any of that spray paint in and i do want  to thank evercoat very much for supporting this   video and sending me out their body filler and  their glazing putty that way i could teach you   guys how to properly fix dents in your vehicle now  enough talk let's go grab our dust mask and let's   get started with step number one preparing the  dents so we could add our filler now since we have   a bunch of dents right here and we have a nice  size dent back there we're going to end up spray   painting this entire door panel so if you have any  plastic trim like this piece right here you want   to remove it so use a plastic trim removal tool  and pry the trim out being careful not to damage   the door and as you remove this trim you might  break the plastic clips that hold it in but don't   worry they're inexpensive and easy to replace and  it's that easy to remove door trim like this now   i did break a couple of these plastic clips it's  bound to happen they're old they're brittle and   the new ones will make the trim fit even tighter  to the door than the old factory worn out ones   all right so with our trim removed now we're  going to go and sand down all these dents to   bare metal it's important we get down to bare  metal because our body filler adheres best to   bare metal so we're going to sand this down but  before we do that it's very important that we   clean the surface because there's oils and dirt  and stuff on this paint surface and we don't want   to rub that into our metal so grab a degreaser  like soapy water and spray down the entire panel   so we could clean it off soapy water is just a  teaspoon of dish soap and the rest water and it   works great at removing dirt and it also removes  waxes and oils that way we won't push them into   the dents we're working on so with our panel nice  and clean now we want to use 80 grit sandpaper and   sand down all these dents and get them to bare  metal now we want to keep our sanding localized   to our dents we don't want to sand out this whole  area because that just creates a lot more work so   to help you visualize where the dents are and how  far out we're sanding from those dents i'm going   to circle each of them and i can see there's  a little bit of waviness in this paint up here   that i want to try to sand smooth so i'm going  to circle this area as well now these circles   are here for guides i'm not saying you can't sand  outside the circle it's going to happen just try   not to focus outside the circle focus inside the  circle and now we have one last dent on this door   panel right under the handle here now i know you  guys know what a dent is but it's not as simple as   it might seem so obviously the dent is that deep  indentation right there but the metal around it is   also indented it's not flush against the rest of  the body if i take one of these stripe dent boards   and you take a look at the reflection you'll get a  true sense of how wide the dent actually is so i'm   going to mark the outside edge of this dent just  to show you guys even though the dent looks small   and tight the metal around it is also bent inward  so it's much bigger than you think so inside that   circle we definitely need to get it to bare  metal so our filler could stick but also around   it about an inch or two around it we want to have  to bare metal so the filler could stick there too   and when we sand it we can get it even with the  rest of the body panel and real quick i'm also   going to circle this dent just like the others so  now that we know where the entire dent is and we   have our area circled so we stay within that area  now we're ready to sand it down with our 80 grit   sandpaper now when using your sandpaper you don't  want to just use your fingers like this because   that'll create hot spots where your fingers are  that's where most of the sanding will be so what   i like to do is i like to grab a kitchen sponge  and wrap my sandpaper around the kitchen sponge   so now this has some give to it it distributes  that force over the sandpaper a little bit better   and you won't get any hot spots when you sand so  now we want to focus on this area and then work   our way out and sand this whole thing so with your  dust mask on sand the dent to bare metal and the   first time you do this it's definitely going to  be weird to sand the paint on your car but you're   going to have to trust the process and not worry  about it now if you notice that the sandpaper is   getting all gummed up just flick it a couple of  times and you can see the dust comes right off   removing this dust is gonna unclog that sandpaper  so it works better and makes it easier for you   so finish sanding the dent down to bare metal and  this shiny metal right here is bare metal but you   can still see we have paint inside the dent that  we need to get out so now you can use your finger   and create a hot spot and sand deep into that dent  to get all the paint out it's very important you   get this dent down to bare metal because body  filler bonds best to bare metal beautiful now   after you're done sanding this is exactly what  it should look like you can see inside our dent   there is no paint at all it is down to bare metal  and then about an inch or so outside of our dent   we have bare metal as well now we also sanded into  the surrounding paintwork not a lot but a little   bit so that we could feather that sanding out and  you can see the different layers of paint you can   see the primer they put down from the factory the  base coat which is the color coat and our clear   coat you want to have a nice smooth transition  if you close your eyes you can't even feel that   there's anything there you don't want anything  that you could grab your fingernail on and that's   nice and smooth and that's exactly what you want  so that's one dent done now let's go get the other   dents sanded down now with the other dents you  want to follow the same exact process making sure   you sand each one down to bare metal and remove  all the paint in the deep part of the dent the   80 grit sandpaper works pretty quickly but if you  have an electric sander definitely consider using   it because it'll make this process so much quicker  but as usual i want to show you guys you could get   this done by hand no problem all right so all our  dents are sanded down to bare metal and there's no   more paint in them also this spot right up here  is sanded so that it's smooth because we had a   little wave in the paint so we might as well make  it perfect while we're sanding everything down   now we can finish up the first step by getting  some isopropyl alcohol on a rag and wipe down the   whole panel to remove all the dust that we just  created alright so with all the dents sanded down   to bare metal and i cleaned it off with alcohol i  also did the same thing to the rear dents as well   all of these have been cleaned up now we need to  let that alcohol flash off it needs to evaporate   for about 10-15 minutes and in the meantime  let me show you how to mix your body filler   now we're using evercoat body shop pro grade  body filler and this stuff is super easy to   work with so under the cap you can see here we  have our hardener which we have to mix in with   our filler i'll show you how to do that in a  second but my favorite thing about this entire   kit is this sheet right here this makes your life  so much easier every can of filler comes with the   sheet and makes it impossible to mess up mixing  your filler and your hardener check this out so   first what i suggest you do is grab some tape and  tape down your sheet to a piece of cardboard or   some flat surface that way it's easier to mix on  next we need to pop the lid open with a flathead   screwdriver and i always like to mix the filler to  make sure it has a uniform consistency throughout   and don't worry this easily wipes right off a  metal with a towel now after we mix up the filler   what we're gonna do is figure out how much filler  we're gonna need so this two inch circle this four   inch circle or this six inch circle and i prefer  to start with the smaller amounts just because   you can always add more filler later but if you  fill this up and you don't use all that filler   it's just a waste so what we're gonna do is we're  gonna use this four inch circle and this should   be enough to do all the dents on both doors so  pour out the filler that way it fills the circle   just like that good so after you fill that four  inch circle the next thing you're gonna do is   grab your cream hardener and you wanna knead the  hardener sometimes this stuff sits on a shelf for   a little bit and it might separate a little and  just to make sure it's consistent and we get good   results mix up that hardener now you just squeeze  out a bead of hardener to cover this four inch   line like that and that's perfect and now you can  see why i really like this sheet it's such a great   idea it guarantees that you get the correct amount  of filler and hardener so that ratio is accurate   that way this hardens properly and we get a great  result now you want to grab your spreader and   we're going to mix these two together now it's  important that you don't stir with the spreader   you want to make sure that you're folding if you  stir you're going to introduce air bubbles and   then when you go add this to the car it's going to  create pinholes from those air bubbles and that's   going to give you a bad result so the technique  is to fold the hardener into the filler and let   me show you how to fold all you do is scoop up the  mixture like this and then spread it out scoop it   up and then spread it out and then you want to  repeat this process until you can no longer see   any blue hardener in that filler it has to all get  mixed in and be one color and as you spread it out   you can actually see the air trapped in the filler  come right out which is good so this should take   you a maximum of 30 seconds to get this fully  mixed like this so that's perfect we don't have   any more blue in our filler it is completely mixed  in and we also spread it out nice and thin so that   it doesn't heat up right now this is undergoing  an exothermic reaction so it's heating up and the   hotter it gets the quicker it hardens if it's  70 degrees fahrenheit out we have about five   minutes of work time before this hardens so not  a ton of time so with that said let's take this   and fill our dents alright so what we want to do  first is start with a small amount of filler on   our spreader and wet the bare metal surface so get  your spreader and really press hard and force that   filler into the dent and surrounding bare metal  the filler has resin in it and we want that resin   to wet the bare metal and that's going to help  provide better adhesion for the layers of filler   we put on top of it and then after you wet the  surface like that now we can add our first layer   and push it deep into the dent forcing any air out  and also keep the layer thin that way we don't get   any air bubbles which leads to pinholes now it  looks like we just need one more thin layer to   build this up slightly higher than the surrounding  panel perfect so this is a great example we did a   good job at keeping the filler within the sanded  area it's not all over the place it's not down   here outside on the paint because if it is it's  going to take a lot of work to sand that all down   so by keeping it within here we're doing a lot  less work when we have to sand it down we also   didn't put globs of filler on here there isn't a  mountain of filler it's just a little bit higher   than the surrounding body work again that's going  to make it easier to sand down and get smooth and   even with the bodywork once this dries and this  will be dry and sandable in 15 minutes so let's   quickly get the other dents done so wet the bare  metal down by pushing a thin layer of filler onto   the dent really hard then build up the layers of  filler so it's higher than the surrounding panel   same thing for the other dents wet the surface  like so and then add more filler and smooth it out   so it's slightly higher than the surrounding panel  and on that wavy spot up here i'm just going to   put a thin coat of filler since it really isn't a  dent okay so not bad all the dents are completely   filled we do have a little bit of a low spot right  here probably could add a little more filler to   get that higher but not a big deal because after  we sand this down we're gonna add our glazing   putty and our glazing putty is designed to fill  low spots and pinholes so that came out perfect   our spot right here under the handle came out  perfect and off camera i did the rear door panel   and all those dents are completely filled now  just to give you an idea here is how much filler   we have left there is plenty of filler left and  we use that four inch circle and i did the entire   front door and all the dents on the rear door so  hopefully that gives you an idea for your project   how much filler you're gonna need you really don't  need that much so now what we need to do is let   this sit for about 15 minutes that way it cures  and dries and then we could go and sand it down   now as we let that dry i have a quick tip on how  to keep your spreaders nice and clean because   it's hard to clean these spreaders off once that  filler gets on there and the trick is to just   leave a bunch of filler on your spreader don't  clean it off make sure you have a bunch clumped on   there like that and then after your filler hardens  check this out grab your spreader and just crack   your spreader like this and you can see the filler  comes right off in one big piece leaving behind   an undamaged nice and clean spreader all right  so it's been about 15 minutes so grab your 80   grit sandpaper and we are ready to sand down all  the body filler to make it flush with our panel   now when sanding your filler it's very important  that you use a sanding block like this because   it's completely flat and it's solid that's going  to give you the best smooth surface that's level   with the rest of the body panel if you sand it  by hand you have these pressure points on your   fingers and that could create little waves or  indents into the filler and as you're sanding   a little helpful tip that works really well is to  sand in an x pattern that way you're sanding down   the filler in different directions which will give  you a flatter more even result so that's what your   dent should look like after the 80 grit sanding  now we want to move up to the 180 grit sandpaper   and with the 180 grit you want to sand down the  dent but you also want to start feathering it out   so you want to sand about 6 to 12 inches outside  that dent into the surrounding paintwork like this   all right now that is absolutely perfect if you  close your eyes and you run your hand across this   you cannot feel in any direction that there is  a dent it just feels like one smooth body panel   and that's exactly what you want now with that  180 grit you saw me standing out here as well   we feathered out the sanding so we went from  this tight area and moved outwards to remove   all those 80 grit scratches we introduced so we  have a smooth transition across this whole panel   don't worry we're painting the whole thing so you  just want to make sure that you get rid of those   80 grit scratches with that 180 grit sandpaper  so this is absolutely perfect that's exactly   what you want now let's repeat the process right  here so sand down the filler with 80 grit in an   x pattern to level it out with the surrounding  panel then switch to 180 grit and again feather   out that sanding into the surrounding paintwork to  remove all those 80 grit scratches and smooth out   that paint and finally wipe the panel down with  alcohol to remove any leftover dust okay so after   the 180 grit sandpaper you can see we feathered  out that sanding pretty good now we have sandpaper   scratches all the way out here which makes a nice  smooth transition now this dent here feels great   i cannot feel it this dent there is a low spot  this dent just like we thought there's a low spot   same here low spot on this dent and this took no  body filler this is actually completely smooth so   i guess the little waves were from the factory  paint job but we smoothed that out so we won't   have an issue there so with this completely sanded  with 180 grit we know where there's spots that we   need to fill now let me show you how to mix the  glazing putty to get rid of these low spots and   the pinholes now our glazing putty gets mixed  the same exact way we just mixed our body filler   just make sure you get a new mixing sheet this  mixing sheet has all these little pieces of body   filler on it and if that gets in our glazing putty  it's going to ruin the putty and ruin our finish   so out with the old and in with the new now what  happens if you don't have a new mixing sheet well   you either need a two four or six inch diameter  circle and either a two four or six inch line for   our hardener now funny enough our spreader is  four inches long so you can make a circle with   your spreader or the back part of this cap for our  filler is about four inches so what you can do is   get a piece of cardboard and trace a four inch  circle for your filler like that and then draw   a four inch line for your hardener but you never  want to mix your filler or your putty on here   because your hardener will soak into a cardboard  surface and then you won't have the correct ratio   so a little trick is to grab a plastic ziploc bag  like this and cover your cardboard with plastic   the plastic won't absorb any of the hardener and  it's a nice flat mixing surface now we could go   and mix our glazing putty and what i like to do is  i like to knead the glazing putty just like before   where we needed the hardener to make sure  it's all mixed up and there's no separation   and then pour out the putty to fill the four inch  circle and then once you have that circle filled   next let's lay down our four inch bead of  hardener good and finally we could fold our   hardener into the putty just like before spend no  more than 30 seconds getting this completely mixed   perfect so we don't have any more blue streaks  and our putty is all mixed up we spread it out   that way it stays cool we have about five minutes  of work time until this hardens so let's go fill   the low spots and the pinholes okay so when adding  your first layer of glazing putty this should be   a thin layer and we want to force that putty into  the filler to squeeze out any air bubbles and get   a good bond to the filler and surrounding metal  then we could add some more putty to build it up   and get it higher than the surrounding area and do  the same thing to the other dents push the putty   into the filler like that and then add another  layer of putty over that this doesn't have to be   perfect coverage because with the putty we're just  filling in low spots and pin holes in the filler   so just focus on building up enough putty  over all the dents that you're working on   so with the glazing putty covering all the dents  on the front door panel off camera i also did the   rear door panel now all we have to do is let this  sit for 15 minutes so it could cure and harden   and then after that we'll go sand it down so it's  super smooth okay so 15 minutes later we could   sand this down starting with 320 grit this time  and as you sand make long strokes going past the   dent and not focusing your sanding on one specific  area we don't want to create any flat spots oh man   this feels so good it's nice and smooth and you  can't even tell that there was any dent here at   all this is perfect okay so now we want to do  the same thing for the other dents using 320   grit sandpaper take long strokes going all the  way across the putty and we just want to get this   nice and smooth now this came out perfect except  for one little spot right here you can see there   is a little nick or a little air bubble that  we got in there so i quickly mixed up a batch   of putty and all we want to do is fill in this  little indent and just build up one more layer   good and then we can just sand this down with 320  grit that way we don't have any indents in our   body work when we go to paint and check it out we  are done with the most difficult part getting our   dents nice and even with the rest of the panel and  this looks absolutely perfect all the dents are   nice and flush and our panel is looking great so  now what we need to do is we need to sand it down   with 320 and then 400 to get it ready for paint  so let's start with 320 grit and we want to sand   down anywhere we're going to paint so in this case  sand down the entire door that way the paint has a   good surface to grab onto after the 320 grit we  want to sand down the panel with 400 grit which   is the final sanding before paint so make sure you  get this panel looking nice and smooth and there's   no visible deep scratches because at this point  if you could clearly see the scratch you're gonna   clearly see it after you paint it so make sure  you smooth them out perfect and with both doors   evenly sanded down with 400 grit now we need to  get rid of all this dust and a leaf blower works   great here so just blow all that dust away that  way when we paint none of this dust gets kicked   up and lands on our paint which wouldn't be good  now let's do one last alcohol wipe to make sure   we remove all the dust from the panel and check  it out at this point all the dents are filled   and the door is perfectly smooth and ready for  paint although right now it doesn't look amazing   just wait till the next step where we get paint  on it and make these dents completely disappear   alright now i want to keep things realistic for  you guys remember we're using spray paint cans   outdoors in my driveway don't expect perfect  professional results we're going to get as   good results as possible with spray cans but if  you want perfect results go to a body guy go to   a paint shop and have them spray paint it for you  if you're okay with pretty good results i'm gonna   show you how to do that right now so first we're  gonna be using an automotive primer and we wanna   cover all that bare metal and our filler that way  it seals it off and also it gives our next coat   our base coat a good layer to adhere to so our  base coat is literally the color of our car this   is 354 titan silver this is the metallic silver  bmw uses so it's a paint color match and i'm   going to show you right now how to get the paint  code for your car so you can get the exact color   so to find the color code in your car usually on  the driver's side there are door jamb stickers   like these right here and it'll list the color  code for your car now on this bmw they make it   a little bit different you have to go in the  engine bay and right here on the driver's side   shock tower you can see bmw titan silver metallic  that is our paint code so that's how you find the   paint code for your car so you could color match  your spray paint so after that base coat goes   down finally we have our last coat the clear coat  which seals everything in and gives you that nice   glossy finish now the clear coat we're using is a  2k clear coat which is a special clear coat that   has hardener built into it so if you look at  the lid we have this little red cap right here   this cap goes on the bottom of the can here like  that and then you would snap this in and that will   release the hardener into the paint then you'll  shake this up and now we have a two-part clear   coat the benefit of a two-part clear coat is it's  much more similar to a factory clear coat with the   hardness with the chemical resistance and the uv  resistance so it's a lot more durable especially   for a spray can but the downside is this is very  dangerous to breathe in it's very important that   you don't breathe in the isocyanates in here  so it's very important that you use the correct   full face respirator that fits you properly and  the correct organic filters if you use a 2k clear   coat so with just a couple of spray cans and a  respirator i'm going to show you how to get the   best possible results in your driveway so let's  get started so now it's very important anything   that you don't want painted you need to make  sure that you cover up for example our fender   right here we don't want to get paint on it so  this has to be taped up and covered and when   you're taping off parts like this chrome trim it's  important that you pay attention to the details   don't just tape it off and call it a day not only  do you want to make sure these tape lines are   really straight but you want to go the extra step  i like to tuck the tape under the trim that way   paint can get onto the door under the trim which  will make this paint job come out so much better   and taping up the car does take a long time so  watch this neat little trick okay so we're almost   ready to paint now i set up this tent area because  we don't want to get anything on our paintwork   as we're painting it's not ideal to paint outside  but that's what we have to work with and it's   important that we don't get things landing on our  paint as it's drying otherwise it's not going to   look good so this tent hopefully will do the trick  now before we start painting you want to grab your   tack cloth and we're going to use this to remove  any dust or pollen that might have settled on   any of the panels that are going to get painted  an attack cloth is literally a tacky cloth that   leaves behind no residue so lightly wipe down the  entire door panel to remove anything that might   have settled on it that way we don't spray paint  over dust all right so now comes the fun part   painting we're going to start out with our primer  and we're only going to prime any sections that   have filler and bare metal so anytime you paint  always follow the instructions on the can because   every brand has different instructions in this  case we want to put down a light first coat on any   areas with bare metal and filler that way we can  seal this in and prevent corrosion a few minutes   after the first coat we could hit the spots  again with a second coat and we want to feather   out that second coat more into the surrounding  paint to blend it in and then finally let's lay   down our third and final coat to seal it all in  good next is our base coat when spraying base   coat with a paint can it's best to start spraying  off the panel like onto our garbage bag and then   smoothly go across the panel at a consistent  distance and speed to lay down even coats we want our first coat to be pretty thin don't  expect it to cover the whole door in silver   and since this is a metallic paint you can hear  me shaking the can every so often to get that   metallic flake to stay suspended in our can that  way it comes out evenly and after a few minutes   we can add our second coat and again focus on  moving smoothly and evenly across the panel   that way we can lay down another even coat and  then a few minutes later we could lay down our   third and final coat and just so you have an idea  i used three paint cans and i barely have enough   paint to do both doors so if i were you i'd get  two cans for every panel that you're working on   okay a few minutes later we are ready for our  clear coat so remember we need to take this cap   off and let's put it on the bottom to release our  hardener and then you just have to give it a firm   hit like that and now the hardener is released  into the can and then make sure you shake this   for a good minute or two to mix it all up and  then we're ready to spray just like our base coat   we want to have smooth consistent even coats but  with our clear coat we want this to go on just a   little bit thicker than our base coat this will  help us get a better finish from our spray can   just make sure you don't put it on too thick  and it runs and then after our first coat dries   for a few minutes we can lay down our second  coat and just make sure you get full coverage and then after that second coat dries  let's lay down our third and final coat   and this should be the thickest coat out of all of  them not too thick that it runs but thick enough   so that you can see it's going on to make a  smooth glossy surface and just like that we   are done now we just need to let this dry for a  day and then we can wet sand compound and polish   all right and 24 hours later we are ready for our  final step and that is to wet sand compound and   then polish and this is a very important step so  we're going to start out with our wet sanding the   reason why this is so important is because we use  spray cans spray paint doesn't go on very nicely   you got some good spots you got some bad spots we  need to smooth it out and make it all even wanna   let me show you real quick so you can see this  section right here it has a pretty good reflection   that's straight from a spray can so that's not bad  that's smooth clear coat and then this up here is   all rough and this down here is all rough that's  rough clear coat that's because it's from a spray   can we're gonna be able to get that rough clear  coat to look shinier than that by wet sanding   and unfortunately you can see right there that's a  little bit of pollen as i was working we had these   things landing all over the car luckily i had  that tent up but some still happen to get on here   so this is just the reality of spray painting and  working outside this is stuff you could expect   when you're doing it if you don't want palm like  that take it to a paint guy and he'll be able to   do it perfect but we'll still get this to buff out  really nice and look great so let me show you how   so to even out that paintwork we're gonna start  wet sanding with a thousand grit and work our   way to 1 500 and then 2 000 3000 all the way up to  5000 grit which is super fine the reason why we're   going that fine is because we're doing the next  steps by hand compound and polish is all going to   be done with a polishing pad by hand so after we  wet sand we move on to compounding and polishing   this is our auto magic pc1 that's next that's our  compound and then we move up to the pc2 that's our   polish and then finally we finish off with the pc3  this is a super fine polish to give us that really   glossy deep rich look we all expect from paintwork  well know what let me show you so i already did   the back door to show you guys how good this  could come out and check it out this came out   absolutely amazing so that's what you could  expect from our front door so let me show you how   to wet sand compound and polish okay so grab your  soapy water and let's spray down the entire panel   really get it wet so that the sandpaper is well  lubricated and we're gonna start with our thousand   grit so wrap it around your sponge and then we  need to wet sand the entire panel when wet sanding   make sure you sand the panel in every direction  side to side and up and down then once you're   done sanding down the entire panel you wanna wipe  it down with a towel to remove all that sanding   residue and now we can move up to 1500 grit  so again spray down the panel with soapy water   then sand down the entire panel and then wipe it  down with a towel to remove the sanding residue   we want to repeat this process with our 2000 grit  sandpaper which is pretty fine then our 3000 grit   sandpaper which is really fine and finally our  5000 grit sandpaper which is super fine all right   so after we're done wet sanding we have a nice  uniform haze across the entire panel it looks   almost like a matte paint job there's no gloss  and there's barely any reflection it's almost like   it's uh the reflection's foggy and that's exactly  what you want to see you don't see any individual   scratches at all and that means we're ready for  our compound and polish now this step if you have   a d a polisher definitely use it it'll make your  job so much easier and you'll probably get better   results more glossy results at least but you  guys know we are doing this by hand so get your   polishing pad like this we're going to start with  the auto magic pc1 which is like a compound and   you don't need a lot just get a little bit on your  polishing pad like that and we'll start with that   amount so you understand what we're doing compound  is a very fine abrasive that's removing those wet   sanding scratches so you can't see them anymore  so when compounding you want to use a medium heavy   pressure and you want to buff in tight circles  to attack the scratches on the panel in every   direction work your way down the door and make  sure you overlap your circles so you don't miss   buffing the compound into any spots on the panel  doing this by hand takes a lot of time in elbow   grease trust me when i say invest in a da polisher  and you could thank me later then after you're   done buffing the compound use a clean microfiber  towel and buff away all that compound residue   off the panel oh man i'm exhausted already but  look it's worth the effort this looks absolutely   amazing we're not even done yet this is our first  step of three different steps the compound step   looks great it's like a semi-gloss right now  definitely a lot more shine than with the 5000   grit of course and it's really cutting down those  scratches and the next step the polishing step   should give us a pretty good shine now with the  pc2 flip your buffing pad over to the clean side   and add the polish to that side then same thing  here buff the entire door with a medium heavy   pressure using tight circles and i think you  get the idea it just takes a lot of time and   elbow grease and finally for our last step add the  pc3 to a new buffing pad and use medium pressure   and buff in tight circles now when you're done  with this if you don't have the shine you want   you might have to start over with the pc one  and then use pc2 and pc3 again to cut into   that clear coat even more and remove even more  scratches but this is coming out pretty good   okay after our super fine final polish  check out this finish this came out   amazing especially for doing this in your driveway  is it perfect no but this is way better than what   we started with we had dents we had key marks we  had scratches all over this panel and now it looks   amazing i mean take a look at that shine that's  not too shabby for a hand compound and polish   and i'm totally happy with that now we can't  forget to add our plastic trim and i got new   trim to complete the look and then all you have  to do is tap the trim into the door like that   and that looks awesome but do i have a surprise  for you and that's why i wanted to get the dents   removed and check it out what do you guys think of  the new livery i think it came out awesome soapy   water racers we have a race coming up so i had to  get the car wrapped you're supposed to wait about   two weeks before you wrap over paint that you just  put down but again race is coming up shortly so i   had to get it done and it looks so good there's  no dents here which will make this look rough   and indented and the wrap came out perfect and  the door panel just looks amazing this wrap   looks so good so there you go that's everything  you guys need to know on how to properly remove   dents from your car using common hand tools  as always i hope this video was helpful if it   was remember to give it a thumbs up and if you're  not a subscriber definitely consider hitting that   subscribe button for more money-saving diy videos  like this and as always all the tools and products   i used in this video will be linked down in the  description so you guys could easily find them

Channel: ChrisFix

Views: 3,027,660

Keywords: ChrisFix, dent removal, remove dent, car dent, car dent removal, bondo dents, dent bondo repair, body filler, evercoat

Id: Wuu3Gd4Q6Uo

Length: 31min 14sec (1874 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 22 2022