Creality CR-10 SE - Klipper 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

in today's video we're going to be checking out the creality cr10 SE so the SE line is a more budget friendly premium models which bring the latest greatest technology in a more affordable price I'm very excited to check it out so in this video we're going to unbox it set it up and do some prints hope you guys enjoy it let's get [Music] started [Music] [Music] all [Music] w all right so the cr10 SE here comes in this box it's a decent size we got a little picture here it shows what the printer looks like the dimensions of the Box in cenm and the shipping label says 12 kg which is about 25 lb let's go ahead and open it up so we got soft black foam and here we can see how everything's packed so we got the manual and some other documentation there are quite a few parts and we will looks like have to do some assembly here so we got the spool holder with the detector attached to it it actually comes with two spool holder Parts a cable bracket some snippers uh this is quite interesting a plunger to clean out the hot end this could be useful a light bar looks like that we need to install very cool I like how that comes with the printer and this is quite useful cuz you can get some nice lighting from the top looks like we got our screen display power cable us type looks like about 4 ft long a little coil of filament looks like in white PLA and here we have a bag of Hardware which includes tools some bolts wrenches looks like our USB drive is there and yeah everything we need to put the printer together all right so that's everything for this here you guys can see we got the upper portion and then the base underneath so I'm just going to pull it out and wow this has pretty good weight right away looks very nice and Polished and we have linear rails that's awesome also we do have dual z-axis motors with lead screws that are tethered with the belt on top so yeah looks like a very nice construction here and we'll look at everything a little closer in a bit and so on the very bottom we got our base very well protected and we're just going to pull it straight out all right this is it and looks very nice and uh we'll take a closer look here in a second let's go ahead and move this out of the way and that's everything for the box and let's bring the base back in and we'll flip it upside down and actually actually guys before I do that I'm going to go ahead and take off this PE sheet is a flexible really nice build plate and yeah the reason we're going to flip this printer around is because I want to see what we got underneath so it looks like there's only four little bolts we got to take out so let's go ahead and grab our bag of stuff so we do get a USB thumb drive some grease this could be quite useful to grease the lead screws and whatnot else a few bolts here to put the printer together and some tools which includes a double-sided open wrench 10 and 12 mm and also some Allen wrenches flat head screwdriver and some open Ed wrenches so let's grab the wrench we need for these little bolts and we'll go ahead and take them off all right and so this should just pop off there we go we do have a fan connected here to the board I'm going to go ahead and unplug that and you guys can see the type it is and it's a pretty thick bottom here metal plate all right so this is what's underneath so we can see right onto the front here we have a pretty large storage and this what's dedicated here so the whole base here or the Shell at least is plastic you guys can see and we have metal Extrusion actually or a piece here and it does look like maybe it's cast aluminum or something like that looks very nice actually it's like a h brace that kind of keeps everything together and the Gantry mounts to it right here on both ends so yeah very nice design and also the y axis mounts right in the middle here so looking at the board here not too much to you see looks quite generic and boards are getting simpler and simpler so this is City's Clipper style board which is similar or same that they use on the K1 we only have three heat sinks just for the X Y and Z as the Z is Tethered together overall very clean execution got power coming in here from the power supply and a bunch of other wires going out so the supply is creality branded 24 volts 350 W everything looks nicely crimped and routed here and this is where our power input comes here from the side on and off switch on the back and this ribbon cable here is for the plug-in accessories and also we have rubber feet on four corners that are actually connected to the aluminum cast frame so yeah everything looks great so I'm going to put the lid back on we'll flip it around and start the assembly all right so putting the cr10 SC together shouldn't be too hard let's go ahead and grab our manual so we do get some creality stickers very nice and after sales warranty card and the manual itself so here we have have a parts list of everything that's included and then a stepbystep instruction guide here of how to put it together adjust a couple things and get started and here we have all the parameters of the printer looks like for the first step they want us to put the light bar on top of the Gantry which doesn't make any sense as it would be kind of hard to do that while it's not connected yet so let's go ahead and move to the next step here and connect the Gantry to the base with four m545 bolts and that's these black long ones here and they actually give you one extra as there's five so let's go ahead and pull out this foam underneath you guys can maybe see right here and on the other side is where the Gantry is going to sit so if we just grab it with the back pointing towards the back like this we're just going to Lally set it into those grooves being kind of careful I'm going to grab the poool here and put it underneath the printer guess here in the back seems to work better so I have some room now you can you know go off the edge of the table or whatever but yeah we'll grab one of the bolts and we'll start it here by hand so yeah guys not very hard we'll grab the largest allen wrench I'm going to run these bolts down but we're not going to tighten them yet just kind of run them down as we do want to start our other side and also before we completely tighten them we'll want to run our Gantry down which we'll do here in a second so what I like about this design because we have that cast aluminum underneath it should be very precise on the distance between the two channels so we'll run these down also but not all the way or at least not all the way tight and if we go up what we can do is we can grab the belt up here and spin it and bring the whole x-axis down anyways what we want to do is just bring it down all the way and actually guys there are plugs here taped to the side that we need to release that way we can move it all the way down and the reason we want to get you know pretty close down is because we want to make sure that all of these these rollers here are happy and the distance between the two channels is as close as it's going to get between the two separation before we tighten it all down so this just gives it a more accurate place to start with you know not putting any pressure or being smaller here on the bottom and larger on the top so but yeah all we got to do is tighten our bolts underneath and we can go ahead and snug these up really good all right and we are done with connecting the Gantry unto the base all right so for the next part let's go back and install the light bar which will go up here there's a couple bolts and they are the M5 eight and so this light bar simply just connects here to the front only thing here is be careful with the plugs or the wires but yeah it simply just lines up and the bolts go through the side into the channel so we got one bolt here and the other one on the other side so yeah these don't need to be too tight as it's just a light bar and yeah mostly what you got to remember is not to grab this it's not a handle it's just a bar yeah we have the wire here that supposed to hook up and it looks like the best place for it to go is just a around the top here just like that or however it works for you and our light bar is on and we have a little switch here we can turn it on and off all right so for the next part we're going to be installing the screen which goes right here and here it is in this electrostatic bag so the screen is attached to a bracket which pops right off and we're going to have to install this part you guys can see the three holes with these m425 bolts so yeah again not very hard and there's some little grooves here CLE that line up and it should just drop in and just like that and if you put anything together this should not be very hard at all all right and that's a the3 bolt so our holder is on and so there is a wire coming out at the bottom and it plugs in right here but beside it you guys can see there's a sticker that says this some kind of external looks like USB port or USBC that connects to something it says compensation Port so yeah not too sure if that's an accessory or what but and it's going to groove in just like that into the holder so let's go ahead and plug it in put it down and then slide it to clip it in and simple as that our screen is on and so for the next part we're going back to the top and installing the spool holder and also the wire clip and so that goes on the very top and the spool holder literally just Clips around the channel and bites like this so so this is the front so we're looking at the back here so it literally go like this and then down so we do have a filament detector plug here we do get two spool holders that connect on each end I'm not sure why you'd want to have two of them maybe just to store them there or what yeah I don't really recommend putting too much weight on top but you do have two I guess with one filament detector but yeah it's as simple as just clipping to the front and then going down but yeah it literally just sits in the groove and goes down so let's go ahead and plug in our filament detector we do have a line here that shows us that it flows this way so the wire does go kind of a little bit Out Of Reach so I guess we should go more to the side kind of Cent her up more now we can plug it in and just like that yeah our filament will sit here and then roll through the detector and then down to the hot end and speaking about the hot end let's go ahead and bring it back up and we'll flip around to this side here and that's actually where our wire clip here will go so it goes in with the hook going down like this and it slides in these rails around this metal piece here so just like this right onto the rails and it Clips on there and it holds itself so and that's for the wire that travels up and there's actually a tag here that shows us that this piece goes around the clip so so right around this tag theoretically is where you want to connect it and the other end will plug in into the hot end here on the side and if you go all the way to the side there we can see that it is enough which looks good right there there's also a little plug here underneath that says x on it and that will go on this motor here underneath right there and if we go down more we can see one of our z-axis Motors and the plug is taped down to the base and it does say Z on there and we're going to plug that to this motor here and then on the other side we got quite a few things going on here we actually have a little extension taped to the base and this is going to go from the motor into the junction box here where it says Z so it is all labeled so we'll plug in one side into the motor and the other side here on the first plug closest to it which is the Z motor and then we got two more plugs and they're actually both different so you can't mess it up one of them looks like is for the light bar on the top and the other smaller one is for the filament detector and as simple as that guys we have everything connected on the printer and that was the last step there so yeah the only thing I realized I missed just by looking at it here is that this wire here actually tucks in here it's like a strain relief lower it down a little bit but yeah it's basically got a little Channel there that it snaps into and that relieves The Strain from the plug so yeah make sure you do this and that's pretty much how you install everything here on this printer now the cool part is is that we don't have much to adjust because we have a linear rail here on the bottom and we also have a linear rail here that does not need to be adjusted and everything is pretty much perfect so the only thing you do have adjustments is for the belt so we have the Y belt here and it's actually tightened pretty well and you got a knob here and for the X belt which is also tightened pretty well you have a little allen wrench screw here that you can turn to to tighten it and loosen it so you want to be very careful of not making it too tight just slightly tight and that should be good so yeah that's all really what we need to do except for maybe check your rollers here on the z-axis and mine are all pretty much perfect now if you do need to adjust it the Ecentric nuts on the inside so these are just V rollers that you turn it you can go closer or farther away so these are a little tricky sometimes to adjust so if they're close and not crazy binding or anything weird just leave it alone we do have dual z-axis so everything is very stable and they are tethered so yeah everything looks good here also that pretty much concludes the Assembly of the cr10 SE I'm going to clean up here a bit and we'll take a closer look at it all right so this is the cr10 SE and then you guys can see it looks really good here on the table so let's go ahead and start here on the top we have the spool holder not too sure why it has two holders as we can only utilize one and I don't think you want to put too much weight on here while printing anyway so yeah seems a little redundant here but does come with two holders we got the filament detector here there is a light bar on the front very nice the only thing is you want to be careful not to accidentally grab it and break it off we do have a separate on and off switch for it and it's definitely a very nice addition here to this printer going down from there we can see our hotend extruder assembly and this is all in one direct drive we got the cable here coming in can see the strain relief and it plugs in right there we can see the all metal extruder it is Sprite got a little fan there with venting and on this side we can see see our CR touch for leveling and we have a pretty nice fascia design here also with some vents there for cooling and a creality logo so there are a couple screws that hold the cover which I took out so we can slide it off and see a little closer and there we can see the parts cooling fan with the duct very nice go ahead and unplug this fan and we can see there's a separate Junction board that's almost like a separate board that does its own functions and I think all it does is hit signals from the main board and then does the rest of the thinking here there's our right extruder very nice all metal we can see our stepper motor there in the back and then we got our heat brake there with the heat brake fan right beside it again our CR touch is here and then we have a ceramic heat block with a silicone sock around it and this is the same one looks like that they use on the K1 so yeah these are all really high-end parts for fast speed Printing and as you guys can see we are running on linear rail for the X and what's interesting is that there are no end stop switches for the X or the Y why as I think it uses a sensing kind of mechanism where when it buds against the end stop here that's where it knows where the end is so yeah very nice hot end I'm going to go ahead and put this back and let's look at the rest of the printer all right so looking here from the back our dual z-axis are tethered with this belt here's our wiring for the filament detector goes through the channel and then down and also from the light bar here all the way to our junction box there are bearings in here that hold the lead screws and you guys can see how the belts connected there between the two going down we have this little clip here that installs and it just holds the wire here from falling down and by the way this is what that looks like from the back there we can see the motor The Strain relief here and kind of the view under here from the back so here we have the xaxis motor and that's where it connects underneath we got the VSS slot rollers for each side everything is metal and these are our couplers here with dual motors our bed here has very nice strained relief it is Aluminum and also insulated and we can see the frame there it's pretty beefy there are no knobs to adjust so everything is automatic we are also running on the y axis on a linear rail that's wider and we also kind of have the same end stops here where it just butts against our belt here to our Y axis motor which is pretty large and there we can see the belt with the pulley so the bed wire goes here into the base we got the main wire here that comes out the side and it is a little funky on M like it's not been assembled correctly or there's some wires poking out of it but a little bit rough looking but not terrible and so yeah the base is quite low profile and if we go to the very back in the center here we can see we have a voltage selector under there with a sticker that we need to peel to change it so I can see that mine is set to 230 and we need to change that to 115 so you want to absolutely do that before you try to power on the printer we'll grab the included flat screwdriver and go this way for 115 all right so I just put my sticker back on so yeah and if we go to this side we can see this is where our power input Port is and it is fused and going from there to this end we can see we got an on and off switch and then our manufacturing label shows us a little more detail about the printer and on top of there we can see here our little junction box and this is where you plug in the Z the light bar and the filament detector and going up from here we can see kind of the xaxis mechanism there where the belt runs and to adjust it you use this Allen bolt here to tighten the belt going back to the front we can see our build plate and it is to 20x 220 and I believe 265 tall we can print which is a very nice print volume we have a flexible Pi sheet that comes off it's pretty thin it's coated on one side and reflective on the other this is our magnetic mat which the plate magnetizes to I do love that it has the little bolts for the inst stop we're connecting it quick there's no guessing of where it goes you just butt it against and put it down and again you guys can see there the frame no adjustables so yeah and we're also insulated you can maybe see a little better there linear rails there's actually two bearings and all the way in the front here this is our tension adjuster for the Y belt so this is what the front looks like very nice we do have a very large tray that opens up and you guys can see I put most of the stuff in here and it is huge guys and fits a lot of things which is pretty incredible to see for a smaller printer to have such a big tray so not too much going on on this side but on the other side here we have the screen which here we a sticker that reminds us to check the voltage which we have done already let's go ahead and peel off the protector so the screen is not made to be moved it's kind of stationary but it does uncp if you need to you know kind of take it off yeah it's a pretty decent screen the bezels are a little large but not bad and obviously it is a touchcreen and what's pretty unique is that we have the USB ports here right on the screen itself instead of the printer so yeah and you guys can see there how it connects and mounts to the side there so yeah this is a pretty interesting printer and what's unique about it is how they've put parts from the K1 into this beds Slinger style I3 printer offering us high-speed printing in a more budget friendly and more of a normal format that we're used to so for the next part let's go ahead and plug it in turn it on check all the movements preheat it level it and start our first print all right so I got the printer plugged in in the back let's go ahead and hit the power switch and it does come on we can see actually the light here shining down we got a boot up not too sure how much you guys will see that and by the way this light is really warm from the top here really like the color temperature all right so it looks like it's booted up so here we can see we need to choose our language let's go ahead and click on English and then next step agree to privacy policy Next Step here we can connect our printer to the Wi-Fi so I'm going to go ahead and do that enter your Network's password you can skip this if you want but I already connected so we'll go to the next step here you're going to choose your time zone and you can you can scroll up and down click next so here they give you a barcode which gives you access to the printer slicing and all kinds of cool things let's go next so here it says it's going to go through self check so let's go ahead and start that it's going to do nozzle heating bed heating out of leveling and input shaping at the end there so all right so it's starting to move around now the nozzle and the bed passed now it's going to out of leveling so it's using the probe right now to probe the bed fans came on and actually they're pretty loud all right so that looked like a 7 by7 probe there which is what $49 points so it's done with automatic it's now going to optimization of vibration which is input shaping so it's doing the hot end right now and I don't know if you guys can hear it there's like a tone coming out of it all right so it looks like it's done and I didn't see it moving the bed around but it did do the hot end so maybe it was doing this at the same time but in any case it is finished through the self test click okay and this is our home screen all right so let's check out the main menu here so we got the creality logo it says we're connected to Wi-Fi we got the nozzle temperature the BET temperature the fan controls here click on that actually turns it on and again the fan is pretty loud and that is the parts cooling fan here we have a graph that shows us the nozzle temperature and the bed temperature together correlating here through this down here we have our main buttons we got the home which is where we're at here we have settings so we can control our movements here and we can home here also the increments on the top here we have three tabs so we're in the movement now we can go to extruder and this is where we can preheat it and also extrude or retract and then we have cooling here you can control the fan manually in percentages the next icon down here is files and this is going to read either the local internal memory which nothing is here we can also go to USB drive which is going to read the USB here on the side of the screen and then history of what you printed so to demonstrate this let's go ahead and grab our USB card it doesn't say how big it is but go ahead and plug it in here and it's going to read it and here we can see the files that are on the card and have been sliced for us to print so we got a 23 minute beny filament guide there and looks like some kind of scraper yeah so this is the files the next one here is machine settings and if we click on that here we have the system we can adjust our screen brightness it's probably good where it's at so always on display I guess is keeping the screen on for this long and then dimming it or maybe turning it off I guess we'll find out got the language the sounds you can turn that off if you don't want it to beat when you click things here you can also do the self tests time zones buy to Cloud this is where you going to find your QR code and then we have our version down here on the top here we can see we're in system here we have Network and then the last thing we got here is camera and you can actually plug a camera in here and have it do certain things so this is an accessory here and on the last button down here we have this little robot thing which is a helper frequently asked questions and also log so yeah pretty straightforward and quite easy to understand so for next part let's go ahead and preheat the printer so we can load some filament in so I'm going to click on this extrude button and it's going to start preheating then extruding and then finished so instead of using the coil I do have a little spool of creality filament which I'll use here for our first test print grab our snippers and we'll cut it on an angle so we can feed it through easier so we're going to put it on this pool holder here on the side which has the filament Detector by the way the filament detector does glow blue when you insert it and then we're going to head down for the extruder so we got this arm here and all we need to do do is just release it and then push our filament all the way down through into the hot end and we can manually push it down until it starts coming out you guys can see it now you can also go in the screen and you know do an extrusion here let me check the link so it's on 5 mm so we can click extrude and actually it's restarting the process again so I guess it does have a timer after it does the first it starts to cool off and you have to do it again yeah it's easy enough just just push it yourself as it's quite lengthy to wait for the process okay we're at the Target temperature and there goes so it's pushing it through just 5 mm that's all it's got and you can control the length here of how much you want it to push so I'm going to go ahead and click on the file and let's go ahead and just go with the Beni here which is a really fast print so I clicked on it then we're going to click print and it's processing it and there it goes I probably should have removed that little blob it's now stuck to the tip grab it real quick there we go zo you guys in here a bit all right guys so I noticed that it does have a little wiping spot over there in the corner and actually on the bill plate there's a picture that shows that's like a wiping nozzle area so right now it's actually cooling down the hot end and the screen completely turned off so it doesn't just dim down after 3 minutes it completely turns off so yeah if you want to have your screen constantly on you have to go and change that to never turn off but it's cooled off the nozzle and the bed is at 60 C and I'm guessing it's probably going to do its leveling all right so it's actually doing the bed leveling all over again and I believe you can probably turn that off in the screen cuz I saw when you first start it did show me to check or uncheck the calibration so yeah if you don't want it to you know do that every time or every print maybe a good idea to uncheck it all right so it's preheating the nozzle back to 220 and should be start the printing process here shortly and by the way the nozzle does preheat really quickly so it's already at 19 190 200 210 215 and 220 so yeah very quick preheat and there it go so I'm hoping we're going to have a good distance between the bed and the nozzle and so far what I can see it looks perfect which is incredible and there it goes so it went straight to just crazy Fast Printing the fans are not on yet so it's not too [Music] loud but the movements are incredibly f fast guys so we're already done with our first layer it's on the second layer and now it's going to the third layer which is incredible so all right well that's great everything seems to be working and working very well so you guys can kind of hear the noise coming out of it it's mostly fan but other than that very impressive here on the first start so this is when we see when we're Printing and oh there goes the screen again but yeah we got our temperatures there the bed temperature fan you can see the progress of the V here the file name 8% done estimating 19 minutes left 2 minutes has passed you can pause or stop it here and then we got our same buttons on the bottom which are constantly there so I'm not sure if you're able to control the speed or not let's see I don't really see any kind of controls here guys which is pretty interesting I turn this to no setting that way it doesn't turn off the display yeah there's not much you can do I think maybe in the app you'll be able to control more here looks like we're pretty limited to just the temperature and the fans oh that actually turned them off completely okay let's turn them back on so yeah not much settings here not that I could see that you can adjust so everything is I guess pre-sliced for [Music] all right so our Beni is done and I also went ahead and printed out the scraper so the Benji actually did finish in about 21 minutes and I I'm not too sure about the scraper yeah here it just says the click finish but yeah in any case this PE sheet here works extremely well as expected and the Beni popped right off and let's see the scraper also comes right off after it completely cools so so I guess this is just like a generic scraper that you can use that's kind of sharp here to scrape things off the build plate could be helpful kind of cool little inclusion and you guys can see printed out very nicely it's a little hard to see in white but very clean layers and looks great the bottom looks amazing but let's look at the pchi here which is the more impressive thing is this only took 20 so minutes to do we'll start here on the bottom you guys can kind of see again on white probably won't see too much but yeah it looks great overall guys I mean for how quick it was printed but as far as what I can see there is a little bit of ghosting and ringing but actually almost no ringing mostly some ghosting here and there just very minor though so looks excellent overall especially considering the time it took so yeah very nice and impressive for sure especially being a normal cartisian printer that uses the X and the Y to move also known as the bed linger which is kind of getting some bad reputation lately but I feel like with these kind of enhancements I still love the bed Slinger style printers so let's go ahead and change our filament to Black we're going to go to settings extrude retract well we can check if it's loose or not okay yeah it's still in there all right and it's almost 240 here and there it goes it's actually pulling it in and now it's pushing it out and we can probably probably go ahead and grab it yep pretty easy all right we're going to put in some black pla it's actually rapid PLA and we can extrude it here and it's going to go through the process and do that so let's go ahead and download the creality cloud which I already have mine downloaded as I've used it before so I'm going to click on open and you will need to sign up and sign in unfortunately this app is a little bit obnoxious as it's just randomly playing some kind of talking video or something which to be honest I don't really appreciate but in any case we are in the reality cloud app and it looks a little busy at first until you kind of get used to how it works but if we look here on the bottom we can see here it says workbench and so these are the printers I've connected before so let's go ahead and pair this printer so we're going to click on this little plus we're going to find the printer we have which is the cr10 SE so it gives us directions of what to do next which is asks us to connect to Wi-Fi which we've done already earlier so all we need to do is go to the settings and click on buying creality Cloud it's going to give us this QR code so so we're going to click on that we've done the Wi-Fi connection and now we're going to scan the QR code and as simple as that it's scanned and our printer pulls up so we can name it here just going to leave it the way it is click on done and now our new printer has been added here to the my devices area so if we click on it it pulls up and we can see the stat of the hotend and the hot bed and we have the print speed at 100% heat up so if we click on this it's going to preheat so let's go ahead and do that it's asking us pla or ABS so we're going to click yes for PLA and then down here we have settings if we do this we can see we got a few more things we got other controls feeding retracting PR out inection move temperature so yeah you can turn your fan on and off here so yeah pretty straightforward and actually quite easy to use so if we go to explore we can search for anything we want in the cloud so let's go ahead and find a calibration Cube and it's going to pop up some different type of models and I guess we'll just click on this first one here and so under the files we're going to need to click either slice or download so we can slice it right here and if I click on that okay so this model actually cost money I didn't notice that okay it says right there 10 credits uh let's get a free one here there we go we'll click on slice so you can click it here or down here it says slice so we're going to choose our printer we got a little tutorial here but yeah we can see here it's just like you would be slicing it on a desktop and you have all of your parameters so I'm just going to leave it the way it is it is on speedy2 mm this is like the standard profile here so let's just click on slice so it looks like it's ready so we're going to click print select our printer again I guess it's asking us to make sure there's no models on the build plate confirm here it says if we want to enable the print calibration which I'm not going to do cancel and it should start printing here or sending it to the there we go it is downloading so okay for that loading up and our screen changed here actually hot bed is heated nozle temperature is almost there also and yeah it's as simple as that guys it should start printing here in a few seconds and there we go we got this printing menu popped up so it says it's going to take 27 minutes and some of the other information there you can pause it stop it you got settings here and your nozzle and bed temperature and our speed and doesn't appear that we can control our speed and there it goes guys it's purging and it started the print so yeah it's quite simple to work with this printer as if you only have a phone it's quite seamless and the reality Cloud works great and also looks like the slice was included with a raft on the bottom so that's what it's building so yeah we're going to have to change that in the settings all right so the cube is done and we did print with the raft let's see how easy this pops off so it's stuck on there pretty well but as you guys can see it comes off beautifully let's see how easy the raft pops off so it's stuck on there pretty well but it did come off which is great yeah there is a little surprise here on the cube and if we look at the x-axis here we can see we got a lot of ghosting and some ringing too on the Y it's even worse which is pretty shocking to be honest and here's our X wall we can see the ringing and our y wall also has quite a bit of ringing yeah not too sure what's going on here but it almost feels like the input shaping or vibration compensation is not working so I probably need to run that again to make sure that is activated and calibrated and also I'm going to go ahead and check my belts and maybe tighten them up a bit here to uh make sure that we don't have much slop in here and see if that helps I'm going to do all that and also slice some more calibration Cubes at different speeds and determine which speed is best to print out for good quality slash time it takes all right guys so I'm at the computer and I got the thumb drive plugged in let's go ahead and open it up so you can see here we got the Beni pla file filament guide and the scraper and also we have a raar file which is for Windows and I'm on a Mac so that won't even open so yeah that's probably where our slicer is and who knows what else but obviously you can download the slicer from the creality website so this is the creality cloud.com so it's a web browser and you can actually just like your phone and I am logged in click here on workbench and we can see our projects here and then if we click on devices we can see the printers that I've registered here and here we have the SE and yeah from here you can do the same thing kind of what you did on the phone is choose a file here's the one that we sliced that we just printed or you can search for anything you want here let's say beny and if you click on it under the files here you can click preview slice or download so if we click on slice we get our slicer here loads up to Beni and it's actually quite intuitive to use and works very well right on the browser and you can adjust all of your stuff here and you can't click on Advanced and go a little more detail through all these settings and down here it says all parameters and you can really go in a lot of detail so actually I just realized we're on the K1 so yeah you're just going to find your printer and click on it and that's the profile that will come out but so that's two ways you can slice but obviously you can also slice through the creality print application which is available for mac and that's what I got open here you need to have the latest version obviously and if we click here on where it says printer we're going to add a new one CR series okay so on the very bottom there it is the cr10 SC so we'll click add it's going to ask us what kind of nozzle we have4 okay and there we go so now we are set up and ready to go and we got a couple profiles which is high quality and normal so we'll stick to normal it choose what kind of filament we're using here so let's go ahead and throw in a calibration Cube and obviously on the left side here you can manipulate it moving it around scaling it rotating it stuff like that so but yeah down here you guys can see if we click on edit this is going to be where we can set all of our settings or check them so here we see on the quality the layer height point2 layers the shell I like to make my wall count to three and the bottom layers to five I'm going to uncheck this field gaps everywhere zcam is on sharpest corner under infill we got 15% should be fine and by the way there is an advanced toggle here if you want to get even more advanced with the settings so speed so we got 300 a standard I guess we will start with 50 and go all the way up to 3 400 depending on how it goes so here you can generate supports if you click that put the parameters in there under material we got the printing temperatures so 220 is good for the higher speed but since we're printing slower I'm going to do a just straight 200 build plate temperature at 60 is good cooling looks good extruder also looks like pretty good here we have the retraction distance which is8 seems to be just right so if you have more stringing you might bumped this up and then under build adhesion we got Auto brim which I'm going to turn that just to skirt and we're going to do three around the print and then we have special modes where we can choose spiral mode that's just going to print a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all the way around and we're going to try this out also but yeah pretty much the rest is what it is and so yeah we'll just save that I'm going to go aad and slice this Cube so here it tells us how long it's going to take 21 minutes or 22 basically here the amount of material it's going to use in grams and meters here we have a legend of what every color means and you can run through all of the layers there with these sliding bars but down here we can see we can send it straight to the computer through Wi-Fi export it and put it on our thumb drive or upload it to creality cloud and it'll be available there to print so let's go ahead and try just sending it straight to the computer we're going to click on that we're going to confirm that's what we want to print so our printer is not here so we're going to scan see if we can find it and there it comes up so we're going to check it click add and now it's here so we can click here on the check that we want this printer so we can either send the G-Code and then start it from the printer or just click here and it's going to send it and start printing and that's what I'm going to do as we already to print this next print so it is sending it now and we can see some parameters here with what we're printing the progress the speed and we can actually adjust it here guys if you can see that can go up and down so it's quite convenient and then our temperatures and also if we click on details we get more control and we can see a little better what's going on with the printer here so yeah pretty cool and we can see we're heating up and everything looks good so we're waiting for it to start but yeah that's pretty much how you slice and print straight from the slicer on the computer and this is my preferred way here to do it this way you have a dedicated slicer and you have all the controls so is that starting let's let's go ahead and double click here and I'll clear the model and we'll drag a bench in here and slice it the same way so I can hear the printer starting in the background as I'm making a new project here and we can see the Beni is going to take 1 hour which is pretty quick considering I am printing only at 50 mm a second so yeah it's already optimized to be very fast so yeah I'm going to print out some cubes and maybe some Benes and we'll look at how the speed test goes [Music] all right so we printed out a few things here five to be exact of the cubes and five Benes and we got pretty interesting results so I did use the creality slicer and what we did was 50 100 150 200 and 300 and the interesting part is the faster we got the less it made any sense so we'll take a look at the cubes first so for the 50 mm it took 22 minutes the 100 is 14 minutes the 150 is 13 minutes and you guys can see there is not much difference there and then 200 was 12 minutes so we only saved a minute and then 300 was practically no savings at all so let's check out what they look like from 50 to 300 here you guys can see them all at once and you can see that the 50 is much better than the 100 and then we got 150 200 and 300 actually looks even worse and they're practically the same time so I would say looking at them just here on the x axis that anywhere from 50 to 80 or so would probably be the sweet spot for best quality and ringing as you can see we practically don't have much here on the 50 but as far as speed I'd probably choose this one which is 150 I wanted to print quite a bit faster as for some reason it has less ringing or ghosting than the 100 but surprisingly we still have quite a bit of ghosting and the faster we go the worser it gets so let's look at a 200 and the 50 here side by side so you guys can see the 50 looks quite a bit cleaner there so that's the X and then we got the Y so what interesting on the 50 the Y is quite distorted with vibrations and the highs speeed one is more wavy here we have the X wall which they actually look pretty good and the Y wall so yeah the bottoms are practically the same and the tops look decent on both but the 50 is a bit cleaner for sure so yeah I'm not too sure what's going on especially here on the Y as we do have quite a bit of vibrations and I double checked everything and made sure it was calibrated and the firmer is all up to date so yeah a little disappointing on the ringing and vibrations but it's not terrible as you guys can see for how quick we're printing I'm going to move these out of the way for now and here we have the benci so they're the same speed 50 100 150 200 and 300 so for the 50 it took 1 hour and 7 minutes for the 100 it took 47 minutes and then 150 45 minutes 200 200 is 43 minutes and 341 minutes so again we're kind of losing the purpose of going quicker after we hit about 150 yeah I would consider this printer or at least the way I sliced it through the reality print that 150 would be the fastest I would go to keep quality and save time now this is all going to depend on what you're Printing and the materials and things like that so we're just doing a a more basic overall look here at the different speeds so I won't be able to hold all these but you can probably kind of tell from the reflection that we do have quite interesting things going on so what's interesting is 100 seems to have the most ghosting around the bench here you can kind of see all those lines there so here we have the 50 and they're also there but they're just fine so yeah I'm not sure exactly what's going on and over here actually is pretty severe on the 50 it's a lot of ghosting there and ringing but not too bad on the white here on the back so yeah the Beni does look good here on 50 which took an hour and 7 minutes but here we have 47 minutes which just it's more wavy but less pronounced but yeah kind of interesting but I guess anything under an hour for a Beni is pretty quick now these Benes are not optimized for showing off how fast a printer can print as they are just slice normal with actually three outer layers so that takes much longer than you know if you optimize it just for Speed we can probably get this down to 30 minutes 25 minutes and get it printed out real quick but it won't weigh anything cuz this is a pretty chunky bchy here this is kind of like a normal model that you would print that You' slice yourself that's why we're doing this kind of test and not just optimizing to get the fastest bench but yeah the next two here are 150 not too bad again you can kind of see there's a little bit more waves and we have something funny starting to happen here but again you know it's very presentable and the most important thing is very solid it's not weak or anything like that and then we get the 200 here we can kind of see a lot more stuff going on in the print itself there's more artifacts and whatnot else and this part here is starting to get melty but yeah again still not too bad so if you're going to print something more boxy even going at 200 here is not an issue and then 300 in my opinion it starts to kind of really break down and you guys can see the warping there still not bad and we have more melty there but just not usable at this speed at least for this kind of printing now again all of this can be optimized for even faster printing in the slicer but you just have to dial it all in but for what we did here and how much time we saved I honestly would probably stick to printing around 60 to 70 mm a second and be very happy with how long it takes to what quality we get out of it now keep in mind guys that this printer is still pretty new and as it gets updates and whatnot else it will get better as this does have a very capable Clipper style creality software so I am pretty excited to print more things and also try spiralize mode maybe we'll do some TPU and we'll also try abs and see how well that goes w all right so these are all the prints that we printed and the print overall did very good with all the different types of filaments and probably the best takeaway here is that it is a fast printer with overall a good PR quality so let's start here with PLA and here we have a little frog and this is in a rainbow filament so it did change color and maybe slightly or actually maybe not much at all but yeah you guys can see it looks great we do still have that bit of ghosting ringing overall very clean and the paws are very nice these are pretty hard to get perfect but this printer has no issues the build plate sticks excellent and this part here is usually not great but you guys can see it's perfect on this this print so yeah very nice print overall and not long at all to print out the next print we got here is a shark this is like a bunch of different pieces that combine and then it flexes around and yeah you guys can see it looks great again this was the rainbow filament that changes colors and it kind of went from green to blue here we do have a bit of layering and that could be because of the color change again we do still have the ghosting there and some vibrations but not too bad so this mouth does open let's go ahead and see if we can here we go just po right up so it did open easy but one of our teeth there or tooth got messed up not bad and this opened up really easy so yeah good accuracy on the printer for sure so here we have another print and this filament here is a tricolor so it has three colors in one and it kind of changes depending on the angle or the side that you're looking at so we got green blue and copper so yeah very cool filament and this is like a mpede here with a bunch of pieces and yeah it was printed just like that to the bed again sticks very well as every foot has to stick and then pops off very easy after that so yeah again great print looks good and didn't take long to print so here we have a little robot thing and this is supposed to be a functional print but I scaled it down so much think about 50% that most of it doesn't function so it's supposed to be like 50% larger than this but our arms still move but some of the joints don't work and the legs kind of are stiff and barely moving yeah I printed out sitting down basically just like that this is all the bottom prints out just like this and then you can open it up cool part is the head spins and the arms move but yeah if we look at it here we can kind of see the print quality so we do have some ghosting also here on the face but yeah overall not too bad this is also the tricolor filament which changes colors overall a pretty cool little print that's tricolor so yeah you guys can see that we do have ghosting but what's great is this printer is very accurate and this print here proves that as this is a gear and it's function function these all print separately and we can see the bottom here and then all you got to do is hold the middle here and spin the outside and this one just broke loose immediately and is literally perfect so the accuracy on this printer is quite amazing and there's no issues and these gears are nice and tight and have the perfect tolerances and so smooth which is quite rare for this print so yeah if you want accuracy definitely this printer has it we also have this little box that did not finish and it was because this filament is very old and coming to the end of the spool and it clogged the nozzle so it stopped printing but yeah this is like a mechanism box that closes and it does still kind of work just missing the upper portion here but yeah we did have some stringing here and it's probably because of the old filament which by the way is very hard to print on any printer and this printer did well until it clogged where it did print you guys can see it's quite accurate and the mechanism you know works perfect obviously and the walls look reasonable we can still see the vibration but yeah overall looks very good even for very poor quality filament so yeah all right well we do have this little octopus here that I totally forgot about so this is quite small and intricate here with a lot of pieces that have to combine and again it did a great job there's a support here let's see breaks off real easy and you guys can see we do have the same kind of ghosting ringing whatever on the front there so yeah that's not gone away yeah other than that I mean all the prints do turn out really good and it makes me think that maybe the input shaping is not working correctly or I do have some kind of issue going on maybe with my roller somewhere which I can't even see cuz they're all covered up meaning the belt maybe is not true or something on the gear so all the belts are nice and tight I did tighten them up in any case these are the results we're getting so we do have few other materials we used which abs are these wheels so they printed together like this with brims on the outside to help it hold down and there was no issue sticking surprisingly and we also had supports on the inside so this does need a little bit of cleaning but let's see if we can break off the support just with our hand okay and it comes right out perfectly so yeah great job here with abs and for smaller parts like this there's no issues whatsoever and these are little drift wheels that we use for an RC car that is quite useful so if you print ABS this printer can definitely do it especially smaller parts like those wheels so the next one we got here is rocket and this is actually in spiralize mode and it is TPU so this is one layer all the way around all the way to the top in flexible material as you guys can see here so the bottom is not perfect I kind of ripped it off taken off so yeah maybe we should just take it off completely here so yeah you guys can see TPU even one layer does a great job and what's cool about TPU is it's quite flexible and practically indestructible so we fold this whole rocket up and we can just unfold it and it'll take a shape again so yeah GPU is really cool and in spiralized mode it's even cooler as it's quite flexible and very strong so yeah if you want to do TPU printing you can definitely do it with this direct drive shuder and the last print we got is actually in spiralize mode and this is a spaceship but we actually printed this in pet G or ptg which sometimes can be kind of difficult to print on but this printer did a great job and not only that we did spiralized mode so it's just like the rocket but this is in pet G and also we have the full height here of what the slicer gave us and it should be 265 it looks like a little shorter and I noticed that this can go up a little more so yeah in any case let's look at the bottom here so it actually stuck very well and then popped right off and then here we have the sides also look really clean and we just did 220 on the nozzle again we can still see those ghosting artifacts here and there but not too bad looks pretty good overall but yeah we do have some of it here around the G you can see it so yeah overall it did an excellent job all the way to here until the fan was not on and this was my fault I turned off the fan for this part and I forgot to turn it on towards the end here and it kind of all melted but it did go all the way up in any case that is spiralized mode there and as you guys can see there is no issues with printing in spiralized mode so yeah overall I would say this is a great printer I do like that it prints fast which is really cool and very useful I wish the ringing and ghosting was a little less as it would make it a lot more compelling now this could be just my printer or maybe it just needs another software update but other than that everything works great the light bar up here is very nice and bright and I can turn it off here you guys can see the difference it makes we got a filament detection heathered dual Z lead screws double spool holder for whatever reason love the linear rails as we got a 10 here on the X and a 20 mm on the Y excellent hot-end extruder with Sprite Extrusion and ceramic K1 block heater the parts cooling fan is a little loud but it's very strong we got a great volume on the build plate of 220x 220 and 265 tall and by the way the nozzle does heat up to 300 C and the bed should go 100 plus also we do have the CR touch for the bed leveling and it also has a strain sensor where it can probe the nozzle so it does have both of those which is quite interesting and whatever it does with the outer leveling it's perfect every time the build plate is excellent I love the thin sheet that's PE coated works better than you would expect sticks and then pops right off I absolutely love this huge drawer here on the bottom where you can store all your tools you can adjust the tension with these knobs on your Y and also the X you need to use allen wrench but also adjust so also the touchscreen display is quite nice lots of information and options here I wish it was a little bit more functional on certain adjustments as your printing and whatnot else we do have USBS here on the side instead of on the thing which is a little different but with the way you can just bring files in with Wi-Fi overall it works great yeah very solidly built printer and kind of looks like the S1 Pro which is a good thing not only are we printing much faster with our new hotend but we have a ton of features and capabilities like controlling this printer from your phone computer or even a web browser depending on who you are and what you're looking for this could be a great choice there are a lot of options out there and as all the different companies continue to push for higher speed printing we see quite interesting things like this printer here that emerge so if you guys are interested in this thing I'm going to have some links in the description check it out if you did enjoy this video then hit that like button also check out my other 3D PR videos I'm sure you'll find something interesting there and also stay tuned for more as there is quite a few interesting things coming up and as always guys thanks for watching and I'll catch you on the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 12,593

Keywords: 3d printer, 3d printing, 3d printed, 3d print, 3d printing for beginners, cr10 printer, creality cr-10, cr 10 se, creality 3d printer setup, creality cr10 se, creality cr 10 se, cr-10 se, creality 3d, 3d printer review, creality 3d printer, cr10 se 3d printer, creality cr-10 se, creality ender 3 3d printer setup, creality cr10 setup, creality cr 10 se 3d printer, creality cr 10 se review, creality cr-10 setup, creality cr-10 se review, klipper 3d printer, Klipper

Id: xWsXZtTcDqc

Length: 58min 24sec (3504 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 10 2023