EJ25 Subaru Boxer engine installation on 2006 Forester

here we are we're gonna do another video on Kari holes this channel my name is sue e bite I've been called worse but uh today we're gonna stop doing install on a an engine install on a 2006 Subaru Forester this is a engine that has variable cam timing so there are a few differences between this install and a pre and install previous to 2006 in 2006 they they have moved the catalytic converters if you want to take a look up here Harry they they move the catalytic converters up to the front of the engine compartment that's previous to that every all the exhaust was actually behind the transmission it's not really any harder to do it just looks harder but once you've done it a little bit it's it's not a big deal so we're getting ready to drop the engine in it's already dressed out we got spark plugs in it motor mounts in it all these all of them you know most of this essential stuff is on it already except for the intake and spark plugs and wiper the spark plug wires and stuff so before I drop the engine in I take a sanding block with some 80 grit sandpaper and I just sand the tops of the exhaust manifolds you don't have to have a power tool to do this just a rubber sanding block and sandpaper just just to make sure there's there's no rust or any uh anything on this exhaust manifold that would prevent the gasket from sealing so just clean them off nice the other thing I like to do is I like to take a round rasp file and I like to just clean the pinholes for the alignment pins and all I do is go around it and just paint clean any of the corrosion or debris out of there I do on bolt I do it on both sides make sure you do it you're doing the pinhole and not the bolt hole just just clean anything you know just to just throw your pins slide in nicely just takes a minute with a round wrasse file and we're gonna look at the back of the engine these alignment pins are extremely important there's one on each side it's a 10 millimeter pin it's ten millimeter by 24 millimeter in length these pins are very important to make sure that the torque converter or the clutch if you have a manual are aligned perfectly with with the engine so these alignment pins they a lot of times will will stay in the transmission when you pull the engine you need to remove them from the from the transmission and drive them back into the engine and make sure that the the pin holes are clean in the transmission before you you know before you install the engine so I've already got that I've already got that flywheel torque to 70 foot pounds and we've got the we've got spins in here that the the flywheel cover on the bottom we're not gonna put that back in they're just not worth the pain in the butt and they didn't use them for years on automatic cars and then suddenly they decided they needed them but I don't put them back in I just uh they're just really hard to manipulate around the torque converter so I just don't put them actually so yeah we're just getting ready to drop this in I Jack the transmission up I put a block of wood I put you might bill see see it here Kerry if you look if you look right through there underneath the underneath the transmission field you can see a block of wood it's a 2x4 the width of the pan and I've lifted the transmission up about two inches off the crop the engine crossmember that helps you to get the the engine to line up squarely when you go to assemble when you go to assemble the tube so so you can see the distance right here it's about 2 2 to 3 inches don't jack it up too high because you'll actually on these cars you'll actually pull the joint out of the axle this axle needs to be replaced once they get the engine in it I'll pull that axle out and replace that axle that that food is completely gone I'm good to just wheel this over to front of the car jack it up so it'll clear the front bumper you'll see that I left the harmonic balancer off of it I put the harmonic balancer back on the engine when it's in it just gives you a little extra room in the front of the engine some people like to have that on before they put the engine in but I have the respect that proper tool to tighten them up so I don't have to worry about using an impact to put it up put it on so we're just kind of aligning it up we're going to drop it in slow okay so we're about where it needs to be now the way I've got the change set up I've always got to lift up on the front of the motor a little bit to get the alignment pins in place some people have Levellers that they put on the engine and I don't use one I've never really felt the need for it so I just lift the front of the motor up with my hand and put in line the pin up in the transmission that the the lower bolt I've got to raise the transmission up just a tad more okay so I got multiple lined up and I've just pushed it in and it's all pretty much made it up you could look at the party line here the engine and transmission are are completely lined up you should be able to do that with an automatic or manual if you're putting a engine in with it with a clutch on it sometimes you'll have to put the crankshaft bolt in it and spin it just a little bit to get the splines to line up as you push it in you shouldn't have to use the bolts to draw the two together you should be able to just made them made them up like I just did so after you get that done I like to tell it to jack down so I'm gonna let the the gonna let the weight off the jack the transmission weight off the jack and I'm gonna install two bellhousing bolts went one on each side this bolt is right the one I'm putting in right now is the second one from the bottom which makes that the third from the top it's fairly centered with the bell housing which is why I put that one in first and I just dried up with my with my electric ratchet and I'll go to the other side and do the same thing make the same bolt in the same spot just pulled right in so now that I've got that made it up good and I know it's not gonna come back apart I dropped it I dropped the weight of the engine into the cradle is that right in [Music] we have the engine set in place it's dropped down on the cradle and the motor mount studs should be all lined up perfectly you can tell you can tell that because it's level and I felt it drop you can tell that it actually seated Donald in the end of the engine cradle so we're ready to start putting things together so I'm taking the chain off the engine bolt oh I like putting a chain across it the two intake bolts cry out you know at an angle that way I can I can actually tilt the engine the way I want to and all I people like those those engines stabilizers and them but but it I think they're too bulky they get in my way I just do things my way I have they the exhaust being held up by a jack stand right now at this point that exhaust the accept the exhaust is heavy and I just don't like the weight of it hanging from the hanger because it puts a lot of weight on the rear donut on the back of the the catalytic converter setup so I currently have that supported so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna get underneath the car first and put them put the exhaust bolts on it and put the the motor mo nuts on it - right away so now we got I have everything laid out on the ground here this is this is everything to put it in if you look at the nuts the this is an exhaust nut this is a motor mount nut you can see there are actually two different sizes not only are they two different sizes but the exhaust nuts are stainless steel and these nuts are mild steel lots of people mix them up when they go to put the motor you know back in the car so I always lay these all out and kind of categorize everything before before I start to put the engine in so I always take the two the two motor-mount nuts and these are the motor mount washers and I'm going to put those in a pile dumb but take six of these nuts the exhaust nuts and I'm just going to set them aside and I'm going to set them on the ground when I drop the the weight of the engine on to the car the actually it actually bound up the exhaust is Epps on a jack stand so I just got jack a little bit of the weight off the car and to pull a jack stand out so I can put the exhaust jacking up on the frame rails a little bit be plenty a little bit more okay so now I can move the exhaust around it sits so I'm gonna put the exhaust gaskets up this place slide them over the exhaust studs slow down on this one so I can see where you're going because I can't see the other side yeah and you can't it's really hard to see even for me I can't even see the exhaust studs from here it's very difficult to see it's kind of all by field in fact I'm gonna I'm gonna get my little flashlight so I don't know if you can actually see up in there it's kind of hard to see that exhaust that's why these this particular style exhaust is a little bit harder to work on you can't really get your hand up in there like you can with the earlier style exhaust it's very hard it takes up a lot of room up front here and you can't put these exhaust gaskets on prior to dropping the edge and then because they'll just fall off okay so both the exhaust gaskets are in place I'm gonna lift this exhaust up quickly before before one of them falls out and get at least another two started that's the hardest part about this install is any exhaust line though of course it's much easier if you're on a hoist or have the car jack up now this impact is set to 70 foot palms so I just go ahead and draw them right up and tighten them up to 70 foot palms never broke one yet okay and then put the motor mount nuts on it and then I'm done underneath of course that's hard to see where those motor-mount nuts are but they're just on the frame cradle right there he's pretty easy to see that we'll check all the exhaust oh we're all good so we're done underneath the car that's it that's all you have that's all you have to put on under from underneath so that's why I don't jack it up and put it on jack stands and get it out lift it up and stuff because you only have April 8 nuts to put on so once the exhaust is bolted up and the motor mount bolts are the nuts are on you're done under there so now we're gonna go ahead and we're gonna finish bolting the engine and the transmission together we're gonna put all the the bellhousing bolts in a starter in it so yeah I'm all laid out here we've already got we've already got two two in there so we need a starter bolt and one more bell bolt on this side and two more bail bolts on this side and then there's a there's a nut and a washer for the lower studs there's a stud on the bottom of the bell housing on each side we're going to put a nut in the washer and actually the lots of people don't put the washers back on I think they lose them when they do the job I always put them back on i've got extras in case they lose one but if subaru wanted when i'm if they didn't want went on there they wouldn't pull one out in there so that's my opinion we're gonna start by putting the lower nut on the bell housing on this side it's way down here you got to stretch a little bit to get it in you can't really see it but you can feel it you should bill spin it out by hand it's right down here it's at the very bottom of the bell housing there's a stud that takes a 10 by 8 to 5 millimeter now of course we put the washer on there like I said - Bell bolts into some of the earlier cars have a brought wire loom bracket that bolts up on either the top or the second bell housing bolts some of them use that some don't this particular one we got the bolts in I'm just gonna take my long swivel ratchet and tighten them up you don't have to make them up too tight there probably if I had to guess probably about thirty foot pounds so that was quick and easy we got those four done we're going to go to the other side again we're gonna reach down and do the bottom the bottom bail the nut that goes on the bottom we put a washer on there spun the nut on if I collect a ratchet on there take it up we got one more bellhousing ball that's right below the starter it's right here I don't know hopefully you can see it it's right next to the starter stud the lower starter stud so we right tighten that one up you see with my ratchet on it because my ratchets got one tells you where it is now we're going to Snug those up to there's three of them that bottom nuts a little bit hard to get to but I've always been able to get them in so I'm actually gonna let this car down because they still have it sitting up there and having their struggle to reach everything so next thing we're going to do is put the starter in it so the starter also has a nut and a washer and and there's a long bolt with the battery ground ground bracket that's what holds the starter on you slide to start her in line up there's a stud there's a stud that holds it on on the bottom when I say stud I don't mean me I'm you know there's a stud a real stud so we're gonna put the nut we're gonna put the nut in the washer on to hold it in place that's a here's the 14 millimeter wrench on the early on the real early ones that was the 17 millimeter wrench to take that nut off but they changed them in the later years I'm going to put this on or use the electric ratchet make it go a little faster I don't use my electric ratchet to tighten any bolts or loosen them I just use it to spin them in hopefully they'll last longer if I do it that if I do that this battery bracket I try to line this up so it's tilted a little bit towards the driver's side of the car sometimes it's hard hard to do that because it wants to spin this one's being a little bit of a bugger but we'll get her where we want it tight we're gonna tighten up the lower starter bolt and nut burger nut the swivel ratchet sure makes it easy to get at that stuff you can see how easy it is when you have a swivel on there the starters in there and tight now we're gonna hook up the we're gonna hook up the power wire to the starter there's two of them there's the signal wire and there's and there's a battery wire and then we're gonna hook up the ground strap to it we've got the starter bolted in now we're just gonna hook up the electrical to it the hardware for that is a is a eight millimeter nut and a lock washer that's for the starter and then we have a short bolt with it's a flat washer and a lock washer built into it that is the correct bolt for the ground strap so the ground strap is right up on top right here spin that on I'm just gonna tighten that out this goes to the battery that's your battery ground strap that is super important to have that back on there I see these things hang in here cars come in without them I don't know why people don't put them back on and then this is the power wire this is your battery wire that goes to the back of the starter there's a lock washer and an 8 millimeter nut that holds that on up not too tight tight but not too tight put the rubber bellows over it and then we're gonna plug in the this is a signal wire this is when you turn the key this is what tells the starter to spin and that goes on the back of the solenoid you'll find the flat speed that that plugs into it's got to feel around for it and plug it in so starters all in next thing we're gonna hook up is the dog bone on the back of the transmission bell housing this is the dog bone right here I've got it pulled up out of place so I have to loosen the bolt on it just to just to get it to drop down we're gonna put the nut in the washer and there's stirs up there's a washer on both sides of this from the factory it's a flat wash the bolt holes through from the driver's side and then there's a a flat washer and a nut goes on there like that we're going to tighten up the dog bone before we tighten up the bolt that's snug now we're just gonna tighten this up dog bones in the next thing we're going to put on it is the ear cleaner bracket the manuals are different than the automatics this is an automatic bracket the manuals it's it's already fixed it stays bolted to the side of the transmission you can't remove it on the automatics you can remove it you don't have to I do to give me more room to get at the starter it's only two bolts it takes a minute just takes a minute to put it on my little my little D wall 3/8 drive impact will tighten them up to 18 foot pounds and that's the sky that's as tight as they gotta be right there the next thing we're gonna do is put the torque converter bolts in so we're gonna take the harmonic balancer bolt and screw it into the Trant into the end of the crankshaft so I could spin the engine over so if it turns in freely should go in really easy and we're gonna turn it clockwise and we're going to take our finger and just line up one of the one of the bolt holes in the torque converter to the flywheel so if that one's lined up already so we're gonna we're gonna just put a bolt in we're not gonna put it in all the way we're just going to turn in real slow we're gonna put all four of them in before we tighten them otherwise sometimes you get to the last one it won't go in because there's just a little misalignment so we're just gonna we're gonna put them all in just halfway this is the last month so I can tighten it my impetus gets them to about 18 foot pounds I would like to see these at about 25 foot pounds so I just put the ratchet on them and snug them up just a little bit more don't want to break them so don't blow it too tight this is number four we're coming up on okay those are all in that's the inspection plug to access the bolts for the torque converter a lot of times they're brittle and they and that little tabs break off that hold them in place so we put a little silicone on them just the silicone just to mount them in there so they don't fall off so I'm gonna grab some silicone I use ultra gray on everything pretty much it's its equivalent to the OE silicone that Subaru uses so you could you could put black on here so it matches the color of the plug but I just use grey on everything so I just put a bead around it smaller than a pencil size bead just like that and then I just put it in place they're snap it in place and I just wipe off the extra silicone so it looks pretty and when the silicone dries it'll be a be a nice watertight seal basically it's there to access the torque converter bolts it should be put back in there though so nothing drops down in between the engine and the and the torque converter and the flywheel if a bolt or something were to drop in there it could make a mess out of the back of it the bell housing or the bell housing face of the of the back of the tray out of the engine so I would definitely put that back on but I see lots of cars hit and they're missing but I put them back on on the 2006 newer Forester and OPEX with this catalytic forward exhaust they have 202 sensors that are mounted in the catalytic converter and there's a bracket that's on the bottom that mounts to the bottom of the head and we're gonna snap those in I've already snapped the one in there's a there's a clip that that holds them in place I'm gonna snap the other one in right next to it and those those just hold them hold it out of the way you know from for the fans or anything else hitting it so those were gonna connect to the intake when it's time this is the water crossover - it goes from from one side of the block to the other and it just served it just equalizes the water from side to side if you look at it you can see that the surfaces are corroded where they bolt to the block so all the corrosion on there I'm gonna take them to the wire wheel and clean them up nice because that that's a definite potential place for a water leakage problem so he's going to take them to the wire wheel [Music] you actually see yeah some little bit of pitting on here the o-rings will seal over that but I don't like that pinning so I'm just gonna put a really thin film of silicone on there to help it seal better before I bolt this down there's two o-rings that go into a groove on the block these are Subaru ol rings you can you can buy them elsewhere but I use the OEM super o-rings they just seem to seal better I don't know if it's the make up of the rubber I'll start on the right over here there put the right one in just set it down in place and then the left one just sets right in there sets in a nice groove then we're just gonna put a little bit of silicone on this in on this water crossover I typically only do this if there's if there's pitting if there's pitting on the on the two on the tube [Music] Subaru didn't use seal sealant on these from the factory but there wasn't pitting on this on this tube from the factory either so I just do this because I don't want a water leakage issue under the intake manifold so I've cleaned the bolts up I've wire wheel them they were pretty ugly you can see how nice they look now the threads get pretty rusty especially when these start to leak and this in this meant this crossover was definitely leaking there was enough corrosion there that it was leaking so rinse we're going to take this and set it right on top of the bosses line it up and then we're going to put the four bolts in and I'm just gonna draw them down with this in with this impact and then tighten them up by hand these bolts only get tightened to about 8 foot piles they don't have to be super tight tight enough that they don't loosen up we've got the water cross over to tube in and we're gonna hook up the clamps to the heater core they kind of fall into place you know there's two of them and you can kind of tell just by laying them there which one goes to what side they just kind of you know find their own way I'm gonna replace the spring clamps with the original style wire clamps that they used on the earlier style Suber is just because look I don't believe in those spring clamps I don't think they do a real good job sealing and these wire clamps that they used on Subarus they used forever and I've never seen one leak so I just it into to buy good clamps these days here hose clamps they're almost unavailable nobody makes good ones anymore everything they that you buy in the aftermarket is made in China and they just don't work well so we're gonna put both of them both of these on these are a little bit hard to get over the end of the hose slide that huh tighten that one up make sure the little washer is on here if you're using these style clamps is a little washer at the at the very tip of the of this bolt just a tiny little washer there to make sure that wash is on there if it's not it won't tighten up I always put these opposing each other so you can get at them if you put this one this this on this side you know it kind of gets in the way so I always put them opposite of each other but I really like these clamps like I say I've never had one leak and I do not like the spring clamps that they put on these from the factory in the later years we're pretty much ready to put the intake manifold on it so I'm gonna set this AC out of my way I'm gonna drop that down he'll work wrong that I'm gonna lift this power-steering up out of the way kind of just hang it up there I'm just making room for we can so we can put the intake manifold on before I put the intake manifold on I'm gonna quickly install the harmonic balance around in front of the engine before I put the balancer on I always check on the front of the crank shaft to see where the keyway is there's a there's a groove on the inside of the balancer that lines up with the keyway on the crank shaft you can just feel it with your finger I can feel it it's about one o'clock so I likewise take the convey the harmonic bouncer and I I aim it at about one o'clock so when I drop the balancer down in place I can pretty much just you know wiggle it a little bit and get it to line up and it just slides on you'll know you'll know when it's on all the way because it's about an eighth of an inch from the time cover on the on the on the timing scale so I've got that in and I'm gonna go ahead and tighten it up now it's gonna spin spin the bolt in with my socket this is a company 23 tool this holds the harmonic balancer from spinning while you're while you're tightening on the con the end of the crankshaft company 23 comm they sell lots and lots of subaru specialty tools it's a really great outfit they sell all the tools for holding camshafts and crank a crankshaft tool that slides over the end of the crank so you can turn the crank over they have a lot of really good specialty tools it's a good place it's a good place to buy tools you can buy direct on their website but this this crank should have tool just there's four holes in the front of the balancer that it slides into you just put it slide it in and then you just put your breaker bar right in the end and then just tighten it up you know the balancer the balancer on this engine should be tightened to about a hundred twenty foot-pounds snug it up good with a breaker bar and you're probably right around there I could torque it down but I do a lot of these but if you want the torque spec it's about 120 foot pounds there is an alternate way to hold the crank shaft from spinning if you don't have that tool and I'm gonna show you real quickly where that is if you don't have a way to hold the crank shaft from spinning because it's an you know it's an automatic car there's no way to really hold it you can just spin the crank with a breaker bar there is an access hole on the side of the bell housing I don't know if you can see a carry it's right here it's right below the dowel pin that aligns the block there's an access hole there and what that access hole allows you to do is to take a screwdriver above this size stick it in that hole and and you can take your breaker bar then and you can turn your breaker bar you can turn your crankshaft until you find a void in the flywheel to stick to stick the screwdriver into there's there's four voids in the flywheel I'm just going to turn it over until I find one of the voids there I just the screwdrivers will suddenly want to slide in as soon as you get one of the voids I'm gonna show you what that boy looks like on the flywheel as you're turning the motor over you're trying to find one of these four voids to stick the screwdriver through when you stick that screwdriver through that hole it'll ultimately go through this void in the flywheel and you'll be able to lock the flywheel up so you can tighten that bolt up you see where the screwdriver is Carrie can you see that in there if you watch now I can actually tighten this bolt up and the motor doesn't spin over and you can tighten it up as tight as you want there so you don't actually have to have the tool to hold the balancer there is an alternate way to hold to hold the motor so to get the screwdriver back out now all you have to do is release the pressure by going backwards just a tad and you can pull the screwdriver right back up the screwdriver is actually going through the void like that and you're it and then when you turn the flywheel it locks it that's what you're accomplishing by putting the screwdriver in there so the flyable won't turn / we're gonna set the intake gaskets on next and put the intake manifold on it so these there's a light there's two alignment pins on each side you just make sure you have the gasket you know facing the right direction you know the injector indent is on the on the valve cover side and you just set those on the two alignment pins and then the bolt holes will all line up do the same thing on the other side and then we're ready to wear ready set the intake manifold on I've already I've already cleaned the intake manifold I've taken car off I scraped I scraped the gasket surfaces and then took brake clean and clean the tube the two gasket surfaces off so the manifold is ready to set in place I lightly set it up here I've already moved the air-conditioning compressor out of the way so I can hopefully get this set in place and the first thing I have to do is align up the EGR tube on the intake manifold that's the first thing you have to do when you set the intake down one other thing I do is I try to get these spark plug wires kind of stuck out of the way so they don't fall and then this bracket kind of gets in the way - so you kind of got it you kind of have to feed it in and and move this bracket around as you're setting it in place okay so I kind of finagle dydt all in place and like I said the first thing you have to do care if you want to get the camera back over here we can get a good view of this EGR tube tin it can you see the EGR tube right here Kari it's this tube this this EGR tube has to go into the intake first they'll have to feed that in and you actually have to get it started you have to turn it in at least two or three threads yes you absolutely have to do that before you hook anything else up on this intake manifold if you try to screw that in later if the if the manifold is cocked a little bit you can cross thread that EGR tube very easily so that's the first thing you do on this particular version of this engine the next thing you have to do is you have to bolt up this bracket right here just this bracket right here you have to put this bolt in this very short eight millimeter bolt bolts this bracket in place oops dropped it like I say this bracket this bracket is for the 202 sensors so you have to get this bolt in and started because once you have the intake bolted down you cannot get that bolt in so it's imperative that you do it at this point in the game and it's kind of a bugger to get your finger in there and get it started while holding the intake up it's just a really crappy place for them to put a bolt I need all the difference in the world okay so that now that that now that that bolt is in place you can if you take a look at from this angle kiri you can see that you can't put that bolt in once once the intake is is set down and bolted in place there's no room to get that bolt in so we've got the bolt in I've tightened it with my finger now I'm gonna just I'm gonna tighten it up good before I put this intake down sick so it's really a bugger to get at that bolt so you're better off just to get it tight now while you're at it doesn't have to be super tight it's just holding a bracket in place but we got it tight and we're gonna move on it's what we're gonna do next is we're going to tighten up that EGR tube on the backside of the intake I'm gonna grab a wrench here and that's it's a 7/8 open end wrench and we're gonna tighten up this EGR tube on the backside of the intake and then after that we're just gonna start hooking up all it I'm gonna put them get the bolts all started and hook up all the hoses and wires we're just gonna get this tight first just good and snug it's screwing into aluminum you don't want to strip anything so we're gonna be putting the 8th intake bolts in make sure you have all eight in your hand if you can't find one of the intake bolts you need to find it because the scariest thing that I've ever heard happening is when they somebody sets an intake manifold down on them up on the engine or the intake bolts is still in the intake and it fall and it pops out and goes down the intake valve you want to make sure that you have all eight intake valve bolts in your hand when you start this procedure you don't want to end up with one in the intake port it'll get stuck in the valve and you'll be you'll be doing this whole thing over again so we're going to put the first one in the front first so that's easily that's easy to get to I'm gonna go to the other side and do the front one also so we're gonna get the intake manifold lined up so we got two frontlets in now we're going to fish the rest of the rest of them in there fairly easy to get to not necessarily easy to get a bolt down in there so what I'll do is I'll take a needle nose and needlenose pliers just stick the bolt into the end of a needle nose like this and I'll just I'll just go and drop it down into place it's kind of hard to see down in there I don't know if the camera will show us it's right smack in the middle of the intake and so I've got this I've got the two bolts drop down in there and now I'm gonna just take my extension with the socket and spin them in by hand and I'm gonna put I'm gonna make sure I have all all eight of them in before I tighten anything so I'm gonna put the back one in we go to back to this side and start and start tightening them up starting in the middle I'm guessing right around 18 to 20 foot pounds would be perfect but I've done this so many times I know about holotype they how tight they should be by memory those hor tight tight knees for out and a double check all eight of them I've had cars come in we're only four of them more tight they just somebody got lost track of what they were doing it didn't get all items tightened up and big big intake leak so all eight of those are in each side each side of the engine has a breather has a breather hose I put the breather hoses on before I put the spark plug wires on it's just easier to get the breather hose in place so it just snaps it just snaps in the very top of the center of the valve cover it just snaps down on and there's a clamp that holds it in place and that's just a breather that goes to the air cleaner and then from then I snapped it spark plug spark plug wires on make sure they snap you and make sure you can hear them snap and then there in this particular version they have a ground strap on each side plug that in at this time and then you've got some some wiring on the on the front on the front of this on the front of this engine you've got a you've got a camshaft sensor wire which plugs in right here you see that Kerry chef snaps in and then you have the oil pressure sensor for the for the variable cam timing which is the great great plug I'm sorry it's a white plug sensors great and then a blue plug is the solenoid make sure you got all those plugged in or on this side of the engine I'm going to hook up the the water hose to the throttle body it's on the very top and then there is a vacuum hose for the for the brake power brake booster and we're to snap that in in place next thing we have are the two fuel lines the bottom one is a breather line and that just has it has a clamp on it clamp back in place and the upper one snaps on there is a spring inside they're releasing these can be a little bit of a bugger because of this because of this expansion on the flange there's a special tool for it makes it much easier actually the plastic ones I have that I've used are I buy it Harbor Freight for five bucks and they work fine but this just snaps but that just snaps back on so the only thing left on this side of the engine is the is the knock sensor and you're not going to probably be able to see that very well Carrie because I can't even see it it's it's on the very top of the bell housing on the driver's side and it's a plug that's kind of a bugger to get to and you can really only feel your way around it it's it's really hard to see and a lot of people forget to plug it in I'm gonna grab my flashlight maybe you can see it once it put some light on it it's a grey harness plug in a black sensor can you you want to try and see if you can scooch that back here and see that Kerry can you see it right here just plug yeah okay see the plug see the gray plug and the black sensor a lot of people forget to plug that in when they're doing the install and you'll get it and you'll get a code for that so I'm gonna and angle it in then get plugged in sometimes there oh bugger yep okay it snapped in we're good there okay so we got all that we have all the connections done on this side of the engine and we're going to move to that side so again you have a breather just breather hose that goes to the air cleaner box a little clamp on it we're just gonna snap that in place clamp it and clamp it down sometimes it sometimes they're really hard to get on and off this one this isn't too bad and then we're gonna pop our spark plug wires in place sometimes those aren't the easiest to get them to snap in that one I felt this one snapped in but it didn't make a noise so now we're gonna we're gonna plug in our two oxygen sensor wires up front here they're black and black and gray on gray so it's easy to know where they go sometimes you have to push the detent down in order to get them to snap in so it's being a bugger because I'm not pushing on the detent detents back here there detents right here push on that and push it in and this one detents right here snaps in so you got the o2 sensors hooked in now we have some more we have some more wires back here so we have the still we have a PCV hose that plugs in right up here comes off the very top of the block in the back there's a whi back there and this goes to the air cleaner we have three connections up front this is the coolant sensor wire to snap that in this is the crankshaft position sensor wire snap that in and then we have the oil pressure sending unit that's all snapped in this one will go to the power steering once we set it in place we're gonna do that after you get everything else looked up here so we're gonna go to the back of the engine now and there's a there's another there's another coolant line that goes to the throttle body there's a in in and out and we're gonna hook that up first so we don't forget that so I just plug that in and then I'm gonna put the clamp in place so now we've got both the cool-cool hoses hooked up to the throttle body the next thing we're gonna do is hook up this bracket actually before the bracket we're gonna plug these there's three wires on the back of this the back of the cylinder head here if you want to try and reposition a little bit better there's three there's three wires that we're gonna hook up before we put this bracket in place cuz the bracket kind of gets in the way so there's an oil temperature setting unit we're gonna snap in that one's in place this is the oil pressure to oil pressure switch for the variable cam timing step snapped in place and this is the solenoid for the variable cam timing snapped in place so we have all three of those connections made those are the only three on the back side except for this Grom strap there's a ground strap just like on the other side of the engine and we're gonna plug that in they didn't have these until the later model years the ground straps that go to the to the fire you know to the strut tower we've got that plug in so now what we have is the main connector for the ECU wiring harness but there's two bolts that hold this bracket in place and I've got those two bolts right here one of them is a 10 millimeter by about a three-quarter inch in length and one of them is an eight millimeter about about the same length both of these bolts hold this bracket in place so one is on the side of the block do you read Carrie you remember when I when I took when I showed you that screwdriver trick where you stick the screwdriver through the flywheel that same bolt hole holds this bracket in place so it's right below the dowel pin on the side of the engine block and there's a bolt that goes through there and we're gonna put that we're gonna put that put that bolt in place first I'm gonna screw it in with my finger and I've got it started kind of hard to see but it's right on the side of the block so I've got that one in almost all the way and I'm gonna put this bolt in on the top and that one started I'm gonna get a wrench and tighten both of those off I'm gonna tighten up the top one first and I'm gonna grab a ratcheting box and to do the other one like I say you can't really see this one it's kind of hard to see but you got to put it back in that one up it's right on the side of the block kind of hard to see you down there it's tight so we're going to connect the main ECU wiring harness next there's a little there's a bracket right here a wire loom bracket that we're gonna have to release in order to get this in place I'm gonna grab a screwdriver we have to release this little bracket there's a little slot on the bottom side of the outside of this loom you have to get stick a screwdriver in to release to release this wire loom just gotta come in from the bottom side on the outside right here and release it there's a little a little slot we're gonna stick this in the wire loom you have to have this back it has to slide into the groove so there once you get it in and pull this back it'll snap in kind of a bugger but you'll get it and this just snaps down in place and holds that in so first of all we're gonna bolt the air conditioning compressor in place there's four bolts for that I knew I put one in here so these are the four bolts for the AC they're all the same I've already wire wheel them taking all the thread lock out up out of them and clean them up good and they just go in they just hold this AC bracket in place one more over here that one we're gonna do with a ratchet because it's hard to get to and this back one is kind of hard to get you to we're gonna do that with a ratchet just kind of draw it back with this one I always put this one in first the system has to pull the AC compressor it's back if you put these in first and tighten and then you could be tightening against the other bolts I just snug that one up and then the other ones should just go right in get them all for start Snug them all up with the longer ratchet probably 30 35 pounds is plenty don't have to be too too tight okay just gonna continue on with this power steering pump now set it down in place sets up on the motor we're going to snap this reservoir into its bracket you want to bring that over here it just snaps down them in this little finger holds it in place and you've got two bolts here that we need to put in and three bolts on the power steering pump and a plug let me grab some bowls so three bolts that hold that power steering pump on or there's one long one in two short ones they're both all eight millimeter eight millimeter bolt twelve millimeter head I always put the longer one in first and the longer one goes right here you know come on to the right side of each area there it's on the bottom it's above the harmonic balancer it's to look to the left side if you're standing in front of the car I always put the long one in first get started if you clean the clean the threads on the bolts they go in much easier then there's one directly below the pulley and you should bail screaming by hand those two are started and then there's one right back here underneath the wiring harness right here it's kind of hard to see you see that one we're gonna get with a little bit longer extension before I tighten the back one up I always tighten the two front ones so I'm going to go back to the two front and snug them up because you're actually pulling the power steering pump backwards as you tighten the front ones up so I just snug them up good I guess a one's right here and the other ones almost dead center of the pulley just right below the pulley got that one tight we're going to go back and tighten the top one now we're just going to Snug it up we're not going to strip them and then we have the electrical plug that we talked about earlier and that just plugs in right here with the prom with the put that release upward the release paces up just let snap it in so the only thing we have left are the two Brad out of the two bolts for them for the power steering light bracket let me grab those bolts and those two bolts they just go straight straight down in there's just short they're just short little bolts they kind of have a little nipple on the end to help to help them start you're not very big bowls so they don't have to be real tight just snug them up tarsier he's all din all in we're going to put the air conditioning belt on next add two belts air conditioning belt is the narrow of the two they're almost the same length belt the air conditioning belts just a tad bit longer so we're going to take the narrow belt and we're going to slide it over the slide it over the air conditioning I always face the the letters outward so you can read them that's just a anal thing I do you don't have to do it that way but I always like them facing forward and now we're gonna put the tensioner bracket on it check the pulley make sure the pulley spins freely you can replace just the plastic pulley if it's bad but this one seems fine so we're going to put that in place and there's two bolts they're long bolts I mean I'd it seems strange that they use such a long bolt but they do and they're all the same every year use the same bolt we're just going to screw those in and we're gonna reuse it Electric wrap it again grab my regular ratchet we're gonna snuggles up try not to break them and then we're gonna we're gonna make sure that the belt is lined up with the pulley you do see the pulley there Carrie right here okay now we're gonna tension the belt we're gonna just echoes that goes clockwise and we're just gonna take it down till we've got a good tension on the belt we're going to Snug up the nut on the front sorry if you do not tighten this nut up that pulley will eventually loosen up to the point where it'll wear a hole in your timing cover this this nut have to be tight don't forget to tighten this nut up it's a lock nut for the pulley and if you don't tighten it that that belt won't right straight and it'll wear the pulley right through the timing cover seen it many many times more times than I can count so now we're going to put the we're going to put the radiator in it next sometimes the accessories will conflict a little bit with the fans so we're gonna set the radiator down in place this particular model year has a heat shield in front of the transmission lines making those transmission lines a little bit hard to get to so on this version I pull I pull the whole thing out as an assembly with the fans and then the transmission lines and everything already on there so that's all I pull it out that's all we set it right back in place and I disconnect the transmission lines on the on the side of the fender well so we're gonna set this in as a whole assembly [Applause] hoping we can get it past the power steering and the radiator hose so I've got to I've got the bushings lined up that hold it in place on the bottom and now I there's a little there's a little holder clamp for the power steering line can you see that Carrie I snap in that I snap that in place just snaps right in there just a little bracket for the power steering line okay so I've got that sitting in place I'm gonna bolt that radiator in place now the two brackets are the same for this application they use the same one left and right just two two short bolts eight millimeter bolts that hold that in yeah now we've got two electrical connections that we need to make there are two there are two out plugs for the new plugs for the fans can you see that Kerry right down there is it this late help a little bit yeah okay so that you just have to push in and snap in sometimes you got a push on the detent to get it to snap in there's one there and then there's one on the bottom of the radiator over here this one might be a little harder to see can you can you see down maybe from this angle yeah can you see that right there that's right go ahead this one's a bugger tonight this one's a bugger to get - I got it plugged in so we got the two we got the two fans plugged in now we have the two transmission lines that we have to plug that we have to hook back up plug into the to the to the fender well here you see these down there Kerry you can see enough yeah okay so we're plugging them both in they kind of fall into place they they find their own little spot where they go and you just push them in and we're going to tighten them up with a with a little nut nut wrench there there there quarter-inch caps these clamps are quarter-inch we're going to Snug them up hey we're gonna use the Elector it's kind of hard to swing a ratchet in there so we're gonna use the electric wrench again and we're just gonna snug them up we're not going to go crazy tight on [Applause] oh yeah plenty tape yeah they're tight don't need to go any tighter than that so we've got the lines hooked up now we're gonna leave the we're gonna hook up the make sure this is hooked up to the return tank returned we're going to put that the returned the Pats fan for the radiator on here now just uh it's a little self aligning pin on the bottom of it that goes into under the radiator shroud and you just kind of set it in place and kind of finds its own place and then two bolts hold it in place I have to be real pices plastic tube back in place we're going to eat the car put the lower radiator hose on it kind of hard to it's kind of hard to see down there so we're just gonna assume that you're capable of putting a lower radiator hose on yourself okay we're gonna do that we're gonna do the alternator I'm gonna give you a little hint on this because sometimes these are a booger there's a sleeve there's a sleeve in the alternator right here sometimes it's hard to it's hard to get the the alternator to drop into this bracket right here so I've already pounded this sleeve back but in order to do that you would take a large socket a hammer set that on the ground set the alternator there and take a hammer and tap that let's sleep in your actually pop to see the sleeves sticking out the other side now that's what you want that's what you want to do so then when you set this alternator in it just slides right in place you don't have to fight with it to get it in and there's this it's a self holding nut it goes on the backside [Music] just fighting them with Daddy a little bit okay we're gonna put the belt on before we put the the other bolt in the front of the alternator okay we've got that lined up all the grooves are in the pulleys and we're gonna lift this up and start the bolt okay so I got it in as far as it'll go by hand now we're gonna hit the impact we're just gonna snug up the belt it's plenty tight don't forget to tighten this bolt either it will work its way out this bolt doesn't get tightened up that cut that holds the shroud in place that goes on last so this bolt that we don't tighten up quite yet we're gonna hook the wiring up to it now just kind of slides just slide through here AC the AC signal wire plugs in there's a bracket on the fill filler tube that snaps in and I see that there's a part missing here there's supposed to be a little shroud over this over this alternator connector this car actually came with a a plastic cover that would snap open but it's missing it's gone and I don't have one I've got the old-style which you know worked for many many many years for Subaru so I'm going to put that old-style one on here and it does the same thing it protects it from from being grounded all I'm trying to do is protect that positive battery cable I'm just gonna snuggle cable just snugged it up and put the cover over it this is just this isn't protected from somebody grounding you know putting a wrench against it and shooting sparks everywhere and then and then we have the sink we have the signal the signal wire that plugs in I thought those are the only two connections on the alternator and that just snaps down in place it'll snap too when you push on it so the alternator is all hooked up everything's on there this is the belt cover for the for the alternator belt and that goes behind this bolt that we had previously put in there's a big there's a big flat washer that sits behind and then there's a shouldered bolt that looks like that that goes through this rubber grommet and and snugs up and a lot of people over tighten this pole it's it's a shoulder bolt it only has to be so tight I mean it just has to be snugged up enough that it doesn't come loose and then this bolt can be tightened up once that bolts in and tight we can tighten this bolt up and that's leaves that we drove out you're not pulling it back in so if it takes a little bit to Snug it up not to yeah you don't over tighten that either now we're gonna put the AC belt cover on just slides over the stud right here and there's a bolt right here so we're gonna put a little self locking nut on there and then the bolt right here take those off and you're just tightening against plastic here so it doesn't have to be that tight if you over tighten these you're just gonna break the plastic it just have to be snug this is a self locking nut so it turns a little bit harder just snug them up so I'm gonna get the air cleaner set up here's the air box we're gonna set that in place just gonna look back here make sure everything else looks good looks like we got everything done oh we got one other thing I forgot there's a bracket that supports this airbox that mounts right here so we're going to put that in quick it actually it actually supports it supports the airbox at this point so we're gonna put that in and that just goes in it so now we're gonna set the airbox in place make sure you pull it's nice and snugly against the against the yeah throttle body intake and then we're now we're gonna tighten up the clamp there's just a hose clamp right there we're going to Snug that up everybody tightens these things up so tight they strip them out they don't have to be that tight it's rubber it tightens up pretty easy and then we have two bolts that hold the air cleaner box the good wave yeah well this one's all stripped let me get a different one somebody's been into it Oh got it got it got it and on this one there's a uh there's a little flow sensor that has to be plugged in it's kind of a little tricky little deal you have to plug that the plug plugs into the flow sensor and then it snaps into the air box it's a little catch on this on this air box and this just snaps in and it's it's tight these are a little tricky to take apart lots of people break this trying to get it apart you have a nice clean air filter got that sentance place and we're gonna your clear excuse me snap it in we're gonna route the mass airflow away or underneath and snap that in forget to put that on there she won't run too good there's two breather hoses that have to be hooked up to the air box also and there's one on each side they go to the they go into the to the valve cover make sure you get those make sure you get those plug dangerous sometimes people sometimes people forget to put those on yeah it's it's easy to miss just gotta slide them up so I am in place put the battery in now I don't know if this battery is any good I charged it seems to be okay came with the car we're gonna find out it's gonna be Judgment Day on the battery just set up a place and battery hold-down in place and we're gonna see the two tide ounces kind of a bugger to get these in luck lined up sometimes [Music] that one went right in there a little bit easier they move the wind she washer bottle out of the way a little bit easier to put the battery in these cars I've got balls hold downs in we're just gonna snug them up a little bit not too tight if you over tighten those you will tear the sheet metal down below the battery that holds them in place you will act if you over tighten these you will make this battery hold-down almost an inoperable so don't over tighten these two bolts they just have to be snug hook up the positive side of the battery cable [Music] just snug okay battery's in place it's time to put the fluids in it put oil on antifreeze in it my preferred oil Castrol GTX 10w30 that's what I run in all my vehicles I do my oil changes every 3,500 miles and I have never had a Subaru that used any oil that I ran Castrol GTX I know everybody's got their preference for oil lots of people like synthetic oils but I know lots of Subarus that don't you can put synthetic oil in a lot of Subarus and it will consume a lot so I've just come to rely on Castrol GTX I use it in my pickup truck I use it in all my Subarus I have several turbo cars I have a Saab 9-3 turbo car with a v6 twin scroll turbo I run Castrol GTX in the oil cap says 535 30 is a general oil viscosity for all applications forever no matter whether you live in Alaska Hawaii Arizona Michigan Minnesota if you're living in a high high temperature climate like Arizona 10w30 oil is what you should be using it 5w30 is just too light of a viscosity to oil for for a hundred and fifteen degree temperatures so that's just an FYI if you're living in a cold climate you know even during the winter in Wisconsin or Minnesota or New York or you know if you live in Buffalo five-thirty is probably fine in the winter but during the summer you really should be using 10w30 oil it's just a general viscosity that they use for all climates so that's just you know that and and I have found that the engines live longer when you put a little bit heavier oil on when I put the coolant in it I always fill at the upper radiator hose and I always put a full gallon of full strength extended life and freeze into the engine you don't have to mix antifreeze anymore the engine mixes it you're gonna put a gal in the water and almost a gallon of water in it too but we're gonna put the antifreeze in first so I got a gallon of antifreeze in there I'm gonna go fill this up with water now we're just adding straight water to it we're just gonna top we're gonna fit or put as much in the engine as it'll take and the reason the reason we do that is when we start the engine the engines already full of water it doesn't have to drop from the radiator so the water pump will be running it'll be spinning with antifreeze in it so you're not running the water pump dry so we're just gonna keep adding till it won't take anymore and then we're gonna fill a radiator I'm supposed to use distilled water some say should use distilled water I don't have any so I'm not gonna lose any sleep over somebody somebody's gonna somebody's gonna write a comment about it oh my my in the comment section this used YouTube video anybody here say you should use to Stillwater check both clamps make sure they're nice and tight oh this is just the ear little air intake p-sets that snaps onto the goes on into the fender well just snaps in there bolts on right here now he's gonna top the radiator off and I'm going to put some BOTS in the coolant recovery tank I don't have will top off the recovery tank after it reaches operating temperature so we're gonna fire it up now let's uh see if she fires that's the oil topped off and it freezes fold I double-checked everything looks like I've got everything connected plugged in so we're going to do is we're going to cycle the key on and off three times before we before we actually hit the starter to get the fuel pump an opportunity to fill up all the fuel system okay let it cycle three times [Music] fired right up it sounds good to know check engine lights the oil light went right out everything sounds good so far I'm just gonna let it idle for fifteen minutes and let everything let it let the computer go through it's relearning process so we're just gonna we're gonna let us sit here with the air conditioning off for fifteen minutes and then we're going to turn the air conditioning on and then left let it run for a few minutes with the a/c on it has to relearn that the a/c parameters too so we're just gonna let it run for a few minutes we're gonna keep an eye on all the all the levels and double check for oil leaks sounds good they seem quiet we've let it run for 15 minutes everything looks good no leaks engine sounds great power steering was making a little bit of whining it seems to have quieted down may have to change an o-ring on the power steering pump sometimes they'll suck air at the o-ring for the return lines next to the power steering pump but it's quite a down saw it's pretty good now I'm going to turn the AC on and let it run for just a couple of minutes with the HDI before we take a car ride [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] seat belts seat belts for safety so this is the maiden voyage I've never driven this car I just bought it put a new engine in it oh this is your car yeah I bought this car but with a blown up engine it was completely ceased the engine was seized up tight did you rebuild the engine that was in it or is the ceased engine jump the short block is junk I've taken the other engine apart in its seat and the heads are good and and you know some of the parts are good you can reuse some of the parts but the engine the cranks there the the block and the crank and the Pistons and then that's all garbage it's just wiped out she drives nice very happy with this car got some cup to no check engine light so everything looks good so far and think you've done this before Oh once or twice got a little rattled in the dash so I'm not going to dig have to drive on just really smooth roads until I fix that temperature came up real nice I even got it with a full tank of gas how many miles are on this 150,000 do you know if it's his first motor I check the VIN number and yes it's the it's the remote the engine that was in it was the original what you said pretty damn sure its original engine so I've got 150,000 on the first one this one's good for another 150 so this is your car for now huh I'm gonna use it for a daily driver until someone makes an offer if somebody offers me and more than I can refuse how much would that be high bus six grand somebody offered me six grand for that salad awesome somebody will eventually offer me Cygnus a nice car other interior big sunroof clean very nice car 2006 2006 brand new motor brand new motor that's what makes it NEC works AC works great what makes this car appealing now to a lot of people is the fact that it has a brand new engine in it and it's got a bike motor in it so it's gonna last for a long I'm Mike motor I'm Mike motor is all wheel drive doesn't it all wheel drive so get in the snow in the rain oh yeah and it's got real nice all season tires on it they're literally almost brand new so this will be a night this would be a nice car for somebody else but it's gonna be a nice car for me for now so that wraps up this video I hope you enjoyed it and I hope it's helpful to you guys that out there trying to get this stuff done for the first time we'll see you next time

Channel: CareyHolzman

Views: 173,014

Rating: 4.8444443 out of 5

Keywords: Carey, Holzman

Id: 5X9glEn0sbA

Length: 105min 36sec (6336 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 29 2017