DXO PHOTOLAB 5 (Lightroom Classic WORKFLOW)

on today's episode i'm going to show you my lightroom classic to photo lab 5 workflow hello everyone and welcome to the joy of editing with dave kelly today i want to show you my lightroom classic to photo lab 5 workflow if you enjoy using the database system in lightroom but yet you really enjoy the editing capabilities of dxo photo lab 5 like dxo prime noise reduction and also the u-point technology well then this video is for you i'll show you how you can do just that when you install photo lab 5 for the first time there is a lightroom plug-in that's automatically installed for you so that's very important there's some information up in the screen about that now and i'll also give you a link to this user guide in the description below that you may want to check out as well so let's get to it first thing we need to do is pick an image we want to send into photo lab now this is a tiff file so i want to send a raw file in so this is 0.562 tiff i'm going to take the file next to it o562cr2 now this is a raw file now you'll notice i have some editing done on it in lightroom right here this edit will not transfer over to photo lab photo lab and lightroom work with two different editing systems so the edit will not transfer over so when i send this image into photo lab it'll be reset back to its original raw state i'm in the develop module but i'm going to go ahead and click on library but you don't have to you could send it to photo lab right from the develop module but i'm just going to set it to library because when the image comes back in it'll be on library i don't need to redevelop it again so i want to be in the library mode now here is all you got to do come up the file in lightroom and find plug-in extras and then find transfer to dxo photo lab 5. now you'll notice i have a bunch of different uh photo labs starting at photo lab 1 up to photo lab 5. so i've been working with photo lab for a long time so all we need to do is click transfer to dxo photo lab 5. when i do it'll go ahead and open up photo lab 5 as you'll see here in a second there's the splash screen coming up here and you'll see photo lab in a second i'll leave this in real time here's photo lab when photo lab comes on you get this dxo hub comes up here now you can have this show up on startup every time or you could have it once a week or for updates only or never and you can close it right here but there's a lot of good information on here like you can go to help and support here you can go to online shopping here tells you the version you have now you notice i have the elite version because i have film pack five which i highly recommend because i love film film pack five and uh also note that uh you can now work with fuji x-tran files which is really awesome for all you fuji users out there now i don't have a fuji camera maybe someday i'll get one but you can use it and i understand it works really well even though it's still in the beta i'm going to go ahead and close this out now you'll notice on the right hand side of the interface here these are all my adjustment panels here now i set this up for the way i like to do things in photo lab and one of the things i really enjoy about photo lab is you it's totally customizable and if you want to see a video on how to customize photo lab i'd be happy to make one just let me know in the comment section below i'm not going to get into that today but you can set up your own panels name them whenever you want and then you could put whatever adjustment module you want in each one of those panels you can have one adjustment in several panels so it's totally customizable and you save those out as workspaces there's a standard dxo workspace there's an advanced workspace you'll notice i have my the joy of editing with dave kelly workspace of course i do right so anyway i like this workspace and i'm going to work from this workspace today but there's different ways of working in photo lab but i'm going to do a basic edit today just to get you up to speed and then i'm going to send it right back into lightroom because this video remembers about how to work with lightroom as your database and photo lab as your editing software and how to get it back into lightroom before i start the edit i'm going to come up to the menu and click on photo lab 5 and go to preferences and i just want to show you here in preferences under general uh presets default preset for new raw images i'm using the dxo standard now there's different things that you can do here again it's totally customizable but i like to start out with the dxo standard preset which i recommend that you use because it's a very good starting point because it uses dxo smart lighting it optimizes the dynamic range by unblocking shadows and recovering highlights it also uses a bunch of lens corrections that the scientists at dxo develop lens sharpness vignetting distortions it takes care of all of that stuff it's great and uh if we come up here to let's go to basic tools you will see here that the dxo smart lighting has been turned on if i shut this off you'll see there's the before and there's after this smart lighting is really awesome it really balances out your initial image and it makes your processing so easy because this is a good first step phase for you here okay let's take a look at color rendering i'm going to open it up color rendering simulates the rendering of a particular camera or film and if we open up this category group we're going to see a list of a bunch of different things that we can do i could go to camera body now check this out if i click on camera body and then come to rendering look at all these camera bodies i can emulate here okay leica hasselblad nikons olympus anything i want sony cameras pretty cool stuff right it's really nice but i can go ahead and do that but for now i'm just going to use my generic camera i have a canon 5d mark ii but you can change it but also i should show you this too this is where film pack comes in so if you have film pack you could come here to color positive film and then you could work with any of these different uh film types these film emulations which is cool that's positive film and then you have negative film black and white film uh digital films which would be all like your fuji stuff like if you want to see what fuji pro and egg looks like on this image just click that and so you could try out different different types of film here okay which is really kind of cool if you want to use the camera you shot your image with just change it to generic renderings under category and then under rendering go to camera default rendering and it will set it up for the camera you use to take the original shot very briefly let's talk about that dxo standard preset now i really as i said recommend that because it does a lot of things for you and if you want to see what all it does for your initial edit all you need to do is come to this toggle here and give that a click and it shows you all your active corrections and you can see it's applied smart lighting it's taking care of vignetting around the edges you know those dark edges that the camera lenses can give you it corrects that for you it uses all that special dxo optics stuff that the scientists have developed in their labs uh it does color rendering it sets you up for your default camera it does denoising for you it starts out with a basic high quality uh denoise i changed mine to deep prime by the way uh behind the scenes but i always use deep prime and then um it sets you up for your lens sharpness for your particular lens it removes chromatic uh aberrations and things like that and it also sets you up for correcting distortions that your lens will give you so it's doing a lot of things right off the bat for you and again this toggle when it's activated lets you see all your active corrections so at any time you want to see what corrections you're applying click that toggle and you know exactly what you've done let's go ahead and start adjusting my white balance lives in here if you click right here you open up your white balance adjustments and of course you have your temperature and your tint and your pick color tool and then of course you have all your settings in this drop down here that you can adjust quality daylight and so on i'm going to leave that alone for now because i think the white balance looks pretty good and as far as color rendering i don't need it so i'm going to click here and that will collapse that so i don't have to see that smart lighting's already been applied if i click the toggle you can see the before and the after and if we open this up you can see there's some different settings in here right now it's set for uniform you can also set it for spot weighted think when you have images where there's people in there it'll center on the actual faces of the people i'll show you that in another tutorial and then you have some drop down a drop down menu here you can click here and you can set it up for like a slight uh medium strong or a custom setting and it defaults at the slight setting which i find works really well and it also defaults it uniform okay so let's go ahead and close that now next we come to exposure this adjustment and drag it to the right to give you more exposure or to the left to give you less exposure you can double click this circle and it'll reset it i'm going to shut that off because for now i don't think i need that i can always come back to that later this next section is called selective tone so let me go ahead and turn this section on right here now highlights mid-tones shadows and blacks typical stuff found in all editing software so if we wanted to ease off on our highlights we could pull this back a little bit want to open up the midtones drag this to right but notice something when i left click with my mouse and start to drag this i'm holding my left click down can you see how the image is slightly soft but you notice how quick and responsive these sliders are i love the fact that they're very quick and responsive but the trade-off is you get a slight out-of-focus condition until you release the slider once you release the slider it comes right back into focus so that's a little issue it's one thing i don't like about the photolab software but other than that it is really quick and responsive and of course we can open up our shadows a little bit if we need to maybe just a tiny wee bit and we can adjust the black point if we need to as well and next we come to this contrast section let me go ahead and turn this on now the contrast contrast section is really nice because it breaks contrast down into regular contrast which is just an overall contrast and i might just give myself a little boost of contrast here but then it has micro contrast fine contrast highlights mid tones and shadows and these contrast adjustments are great for adding detail into the image it's really cool for that now micro contrast a lot of times i like to click this one whenever you see a little wand here that's an auto feature so click that and dxo determines where it thinks your best setting will be and if you don't like that setting like it might be a little strong i might back it off and you have these up and down arrows where you can like just do like really minut adjustments so i'm going to back that off a little bit so that looks really cool and then fine contrast think it's more like sharpening i don't use this one too often but if you need that little extra sharpness you can use that and then of course you can adjust highlights mid tones and shadows but i think it looks pretty good let me toggle this contrast off and then back on but you can see a lot of detail has popped out in the image so that's contrast and now here's one of my favorite adjustments clear view plus all right let me go ahead and turn this on now when i turn it on it's going to be set at 50 here so i'm going to turn it on it's going to get real ugly for a second because you can see it's really adding a ton of detail and contrast into the image clearview plus is one of the best dehazing pieces of software out there it does a great job now that's way too much but generally what i like to do is take it the whole way off and then just slowly build it up you'll find a little bit really goes a long way here and maybe right about like at a 31 now here is the before and here's after but look how it just really defines our image for us and pops out some extra detail now that might be too much and again you have these adjustments here so we can just take it down in increments and i think i'll do that i'm going to back it off a little bit i tend to overdo i don't know if you're like me but i overdo things so i'm just going to go with a little bit here is the before that and here's the afternoon let's take a look where we've come from with the compare if i left click with the mouse here's the before and here's the after pretty good the next thing i need to do is add some saturation and now we come to color accentuation i couldn't say that word okay so i'm gonna start to drag this and i'll notice when i start to drag the vibrancy slider to the right it'll turn this group on so i'm just gonna drag it to the right and let's add some vibrancy into here and maybe a little bit of saturation but i find with dxo software you can get adjustments done very quickly and easily now let's turn the color accentuation off boy i have a hard time saying that word so there's off and there's on and again let's see where we've come from before and after so it's looking pretty good so far now if i feel i need a little more exposure let's come up to exposure compensation let's open this up and let me give myself i'm going to use the up arrow here just to give myself a little bit of extra exposure i think something like that here's the before and here's the after and again we can toggle off exposure compensation before and after yeah i think that looks pretty good so far now i'm thinking just a little bit more contrast so let's go with a little extra contrast here i think it looks pretty good and let me try opening up my shadows a little bit more not much i'll click compare here's the before and the after i like it so far i think i'll collapse all these tools here so we don't have to see them opened up and i love that you could collapse everything let's open up the hsl hue saturation luminous so this is a great tool i think i'm going to work with yellows i'm going to click on yellow here and pull up my luminance slider just to see where those yellows are live and yeah i just want to tweak my yellows a little bit add a little bit of light yellow maybe a little bit more saturation to the yellows and then how about my oranges let's click on orange let's see where they live i usually like to pull up the luminance just to see where they're at right around there i'll just give them a little saturation i'm sorry a little luminance and maybe a little more saturation not too much but a little wee bit maybe something like that and then we have some red tones in here as well let's find out where they live right there i'm going to give those some saturation yeah just to bring some of those reds out now this tool is really nice because you can take this and you can adjust the tint by dragging this outer circle here to the left to right and change the tin up you can also use this picker tool if whatever swatch you have highlighted when you click on this tool and you click on that color it'll isolate that particular color and now watch i can change the hue of that color which is really nice so this comes in handy but for now i think i'm good right where it is but there's a lot of control here you can do and let me shut this hsl off so here is the before and here's the after but just like that i brought out some extra color in here i may pull back the red saturation a little bit i think i'm a little too strong on that again here's the before and here is the after i'm going to check the blues the blues look a little strong here so let me click on blue and let me just pull back the saturation on my blue just a little wee bit i just want to get rid of that blue see i don't want to go too blue here i just it was a nice gray dismal type day and i like the way the light was coming through and hitting some of these trees so i want to keep that nice gray mood so i'm going to pull that blue back just a wee little bit and i think that looks good right there again before and after i think i'm done with the hsl whenever you use this color picker here this dialog opens up here see where it says close you got to close this out but in here they give you a radius slider where you can determine what radius this picker is going to sample so you can adjust that amount there and it lets you know what channel you're on so when you're done just click close you can also reset here by clicking reset but i'm going to click close and let's just close down the hsl tool and we're almost done i got a few little dust spots here which i can take care of i'm going to come up here and click on this little uh band-aid which is my repair tool now you'll notice down here you can either repair or clone i want to do repair you can adjust the size the feathering the opacity and then just simply click over each one of the dust spots until you got them all removed i'll probably miss one here but i'm sure you'll point that out if i do but it's a tutorial but anyway you get the point you just click over the dust spots by the way if you want to see where the areas are you clicked you can come down here which says show mass and click on here and you can see all the areas that i clicked on and then when you're done just click close now you could do local adjustments by clicking local adjustments here right clicking and you know you can do control points we can do this new thing called control line which i showed in a recent video that i just have done i'm going to go ahead and close this for now i'm not going to use the control points today because i'll be honest with you i don't use them uh if you watch my videos you know i do a show every friday called tk friday i do all my local adjustments with the tk8 panel in photoshop so i don't really do those type of adjustments in either lightroom or dxo i save that for photoshop so i'm not going to get into that today but again if you're not going to use them just click close one thing i am noticing it seems like my water line is slightly tilted so i'm going to go and click on my crop tool and i'm going to click on the horizon tool here and i'm just going to click on the edge and drag a line across this water line right here and just like that click close my image is straightened out again before and after and i think i'm done oh and by the way you can also uh click right here and then you have this slider that you can slide across so you can kind of see your handiwork here and i'm really happy with these results now to get rid of that slider just click this again and now we're back to our image now we just have to send it back to lightroom let me show you how if we look down to the lower right hand corner of the interface you see export with a lightroom symbol just click on that now if you don't have that for some reason you could click right here on this icon and you should find it in here and if you don't see it you can click export to disk and it'll open up a dialog where you can find lightroom but you should see it right here and now i'll click right here export and this dialog comes up export to lightroom and i'm going to export mine as a tip but you have choices here you can export it as a jpeg a tiff you can export it as a dng a raw file with all the corrections applied export it with just uh as a raw file dng with denoise and optical corrections only or export it without processing i don't know why you want to do that but i usually export as a tiff that's what i'm going to do 16 bit now you have choices in here you can change it from 16 to 8 and you can set up your resolution here and you can add a watermark if you want to i'm not going to do that and i send mine out as pro photo and you have different choices in here and you can send out with your xf data and the different things you can just check on what you want here gps whatever you need i don't have gps in my camera but then all i do is click export and it will send it back to lightroom but you'll notice right here see this little arrow if i click on here it shows me how long it's going to take for it to export out now let this run in real time now remember it's using deep prime noise reduction now it sends me back into lightroom and it'll just take a second or two here because it's going to throw it into a collection in lightroom you're not seeing the actual image here but you'll see it here shortly it hasn't showed up yet but it takes a second for it to come into that lightroom collection because it has to write it in and now you're going to see it right now so here it is okay and you'll notice it's in a collection in a group called dxo photo lab along with a list of other images that i processed in the past with uh dxo photo lab let me go ahead and zoom into 200 so you can see how nice and clear this isn't sharp there's no noise i love that dxo prime noise reduction but it does a beautiful job but there you go now if i right click on the image and go to go to folder in library you will notice it is sitting right next to the original raw file but now it is a uh tiff file well there it is everyone that is my lightroom to photo lab 5 workflow it's really easy to do so if you like to use lightroom especially for your database this is a good way of going hey if you enjoyed this tutorial today please give it a like and share with your friends and if you're not yet a subscriber to my channel please subscribe click that bell notification icon then every time i upload a new tutorial you'll be notified about it i want to thank each and every one of you for joining me today in the joy of editing with dave kelly i'll see you all right here next time but until then happy editing [Music] [Music]

Channel: The Joy of Editing with Dave Kelly

Views: 3,151

Keywords: DXO, Photolab 5, Lightroom Classic, Workflow, Deep Prime Noise Reduction, Clearview Plus, Photography, Photo Editing, Tutorial, Training, RAW Edit, RAW Developing, #TheJoyOfEditing

Id: q9tNhejlGJo

Length: 22min 8sec (1328 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 08 2021