DIY Ferrari 360 Driveway Clutch Replacement Saves Thousands

hey guys a warm welcome back to the channel today we are going old school we're back to basics doing a big job right here on the driveway with just some basic tools we're going to be doing the full clutch on this car it hasn't been on the road for a year and well i miss it it needs to be on the road so we're going to be doing everything that needs to be done to start getting this back on the road where it belongs and making some noises like this [Applause] now as i said we're going to be doing the full clutch on this car i'm going to show you how to do it step by step basic tools on a driveway no fancy stuff here now on a 360 especially in f1 the clutch can last as little as 8 000 miles that's if you're using it around town just poodling around can go up to about 25 000 if you're doing motorway freeway long distance journeys maybe a little bit more if you've got a manual car however this car here that i've owned for 12 years has exceeded the rulebook it's done about three times that it's done about 60 000 miles since i've owned it and i can't see anything in history before that to say it had a clutch potentially this is its original clutch the light is absolutely unheard of and i can tell you this i do not pamper this car you can tell by the look of it and uh i certainly don't let it come out the garage warm up for five minutes my neighbors complain uh anything louder than a mouse squeak so it's impossible to actually really do that kind of thing so it gets out it gets driven and it gets driven hard and it gets driven mostly in race sport mode so i don't know what's going on with this one anyway not only that we have hooked up with my guys super performance who provide probably the cheapest ferrari parts in the world anyway we've got an amazing deal for the next month till the end of august all the shipping on ferrari parts will be free of charge worldwide they're going to be a few t's and c's check those out in the description below but otherwise guys get those parts ordered up get those clutch kits changed get those other bits you need for ferraris and get them with free shipping anyway let's go and have a look at all the parts we need for this job so let's quickly run through all the parts i'm going to be using today now the 360 has not had a clutch in the 12 years that i've owned it and like i say for the most part that was daily driven so is getting the full shebang the royal treatment today we've got flywheel we've got the clutch here as well that's the clutch we've got the flange we've got a the bearing here so our slave cylinder that's all got all the seals in it already we've got the sensor as well extremely expensive from ferrari unfortunately but it is while we're in there we're going to just be giving this a complete refresh we've got the ring gear here uh we have got a few other bits and bobs that we're going to be changing little stuff here seals uh we've got main rear main seal there bearing we got the flywheel bolts we've got a couple of special tools here this one is for removing some of the bolts that kind of angled behind this is a clutch alignment as well and so what i'm going to do is i'm going to put in the description below all of the parts that i use now i'm probably going to be ordering a couple of other little bits there might be some o-rings while we get in there the final bit of kit you're going to need is one of these if you've got an f1 car because you're going to need to program the clutch parameters now this is hands down the best bit of money i've ever spent on my modern ferraris it saved me an absolute fortune having a modern ferrari you basically cannot self-do diy stuff on it really without one of these nowadays this has saved me an absolute fortune on things like my f1 gearbox problems anyway this one comes and it works on not just ferrari pretty much everything aston martin lamborghini maserati land rover american cars asian cars citroen european cars anyway we go into here this one allows me to do many many things almost as good as the ferrari diagnostic computer itself if you guys want one of these i'm going to put details below just ping me a message and i'll tell you where you can buy one now i'm going to start by removing various parts on the back of the car so rear bumper under trays and things like that now i've done it in previous videos it's all been documented before it's very easy to do so i'm not going to go through it all on this video you can get to see it all in time lapse [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] the other tool i totally recommend you should equip yourself with at this point is a copy of the workshop manual it has things like the talk specs step-by-step how to take things apart if you're not sure and it's really well documented now i'm going to put a link in the description below use my link you can download all kinds of shop manuals and you're going to get 15 off as you can see that is my super performance delivery i ordered that yesterday and it's already arrived and it is uh midday the following day so super top job from these guys this is for the 308 hopefully this is going to fix the 308 the next thing i'm going to do before i start is i'm going to go into my computer so what we need to do is then plug our little dongle into the obd socket which is down underneath the steering column here on the 360. that fits in there and you just hear that it's just up under there and then it will communicate with the car so we're going to take some readings from this currently before we do any work to the clutch it's going to connect to the dongle i'm just going to put under there and fire all that up and then i'm going to get my settings now for this i found the 430 communicates a little bit better and i'm going to use this this is the gearbox so cfc231 and i'll show you on my tcu why i use that so this is my tcu it sits down here behind the driver's seat or if you're steering walls on that side behind your passenger seat in this little compartment down here that's my tcu this is a spare challenge for darling one that i happen to have and as you see in the little lower left hand corner down there cfc 231 so this is the challenge for dali version now ideally with the computer what you're going to need is to see something that is a newer version the early versions of the 360 tcu don't communicate very well with that computer now you can upgrade these things uh obviously this car has been upgraded you can put much newer versions in but you just need to configure them all up anyway that is why i use 231 and then i'm going to read some data now i've got special functions on here which i'm going to use later on so things like bleed self learning the pis setting is the major one that we need so currently let's have a quick look at this so let's read the value 4.22 okay so pis currently on my used one and make a little note on it and later on when we put the new one in this allows me to write the fresh data on it so clutch where i don't think it there you go let's just make a note of these as well so these settings here i would ignore because i was messing around a few months ago when i was checking some of the stuff that i needed to do for them so then we've got things like the reset of the wear index this is what we're going to be doing when we put the new clutch in so we've got everything in here that we need to do we'll just show you some of the other stuff so we can select gears for example go here and if you watch up here fifth gear all kinds of things like that let's go neutral and then what we are going to do here and special functions on this what we can do is things like the clutch blade we're going to be doing that as well next thing i'm going to do which i probably should have done at the start is just unscrew the filler cap there for the transmission gearbox we're going to have to drain all the oil out of this one and it's always good to start by making sure you can refill it to start with now if you guys want to know how to do all the oil fill and the servicing and the oil change on these things put a link to that video up there somewhere so we're going to loosen this off and it sounds horrendous normally when it goes there you go it feels like it's actually snapped the casing but that's okay right so we're good that's loose we can refill it once i uh get this thing all done next job is i'm going to remove the f1 actuator from the side of the gearbox transmission there's a load of seven mil little nuts around there that hold it in place so what we're gonna do is keep that complete and just move it to one side that means all of the lines are still attached everything is there it's just disconnected from these two plugs up here so there's two nuts here one there one there one two three four five six around here so eight in total all seven mil and all have a little washer on them as well so it's good practice have one of these little telescopic very cheap magnets there we go we're just going to put that down there for now [Music] so we're gonna start by draining the transmission fluid now the drain plug for this is right at the back here just there it is not that one that is the motor oil we're doing that one next anyway you have the link to my video of how to do this i'm just gonna crack on with it and empty all the fluids here we go lovely [Music] okay so that's the last few drops of transmission gearbox oil coming out now so i'm going to switch over and drain the engine oil and then we are good to pull the transmission okay so we're on to the engine oil place your bets now is this going to go everywhere oh i'm gonna do a clean extraction here we go oh yeah who's the pro now don't forget there is two drain points for the engine on a ferrari 360. the other one is right there at the front of the block just at an angle that one right there this is normally one i can look at that got a bit of breeze as well oh here we go yeah lovely okay while that's happening i'm just gonna disconnect these two lines here okay so while that is just finally draining the last fluids we're going to take all of the bolts off that hold the gearbox transmission to the engine so we've got one two three four five six and two at the bottom so eight in total and they are just 17 mil bolts there's one here as you can see so we're just going to go around and systematically get those off one more little bracket to remove that is just this little bit here so i'm just going to remove the front one i don't think it makes any difference if you did front and back i'm going to remove that now our transmission our gearbox is ready to come out the back of the car and well there's various ways of doing this they are extremely heavy you can just about lift them on your own ideally in this situation i would have two people myself and somebody helping me there's space in the engine bay as well so you can actually stand in there so it's quite a bit of room around here however i'm showing the extreme way of doing this one man band little me mr rata rossa so i'm going to figure this one out i'll just show you though you can actually move this thing look it's not as bad as it looks i've got a crane i've also potentially could drop this one down put it on an engine trolley and then we'll just see if we can get it out but i haven't removed this kind of oil filler bit here it's quite it sits up quite proud so we're gonna have to remove or maneuver that round underneath through this gap here somehow anyway let's figure it out so as you can see the gearbox is right back at the moment so in theory i could actually do the job like this there's a plenty of space here to change everything and there's enough space to get in down here however to film this for you guys ideally i need a lot more space [Music] okay so we have the gearbox to transmission off the car it's in the garage because it's due to rain soon typical english weather looks fine at the moment but uh who knows anyway i'm gonna leave that side for the time being we're gonna focus on this so let's have a little walk around it and i'll explain a few things so the actual gearbox itself is exactly the same between a 360 manual and an f1 system the difference being is some of these things we've got a sensor here and on the side where our f1 which is down there at the bottom all our f1 actuator sits and bolts into here normally what you would have is a little kind of mechanism here and that's where your cables come through and that is where your shifter comes into the car so it just sits on there in place of that the f1 actuator so the rest of it is more or less the same you've then got this little uh bleed this block here for the f1 which feeds through so this is our hydraulic line comes down got a little bleed nipple there we've done a video on that replacing that because that is a common problem on 360s they develop hairline cracks the factory ones come through into here we've got a sensor and then we've got our throw out bearing here as you can hear mine doesn't sound too healthy let's have a little close inspection you can see it's definitely seen better days and then we've got all the mechanism and we've actually got the flange that sits behind it so we've got a couple of bolts there you need a special tool which is this one here it's got an angle in it which allows you to get in and behind to undo those so we're going to start taking all of this off i'm going to clean up i've got a sensor so we've got the new sensor here we've got the new bearing we've got the flange that it sits on we've got a couple of new bolts and i think there's a couple of o-rings that we're also going to have to source behind there that aren't normally recommended or not normally changed as part of this but i'm going to change everything while we're in here like i say this clutch has done probably three times more than any normal one so it deserves the very best today so here is our new bra bearing and as you can see that is smooth and beautiful and it's actually an aftermarket base an upgraded one compared to factories we've got the upgraded throughout bearing on also we have an upgraded flange that goes with that i think you need to use that if you're going to put one of these on there so um obviously that's cheaper than the factory one so um that's a nice thing a better well-made bearing and it's cheaper so that's great can't ask for more let's see if i can show you this working so you will hear on the other end of this line in fact you might even see it if i put that there what's this if we got any fluid in it it will shoot out ready i don't want to hold that bearing that sensor there you go but that chills this here feels very notchy look at that really notchy right there at the end anyway and the reason you need one of these is because of the angle behind it we need to get to this bolt here and there's one on the opposite side down here which is a little bit easier [Music] okay now we're just gonna be really careful with the sensor here [Music] now this is our very expensive sensor there we go and then we've got a magnet here this is our pin let's take a closer look at that shall we okay so let's see if i can show you how this works so this is our very expensive sensor okay and it sits on this other half of the housing and then you've got this bit here so it's just a magnetic sensor to sense exactly which position it's in now mine is really gummed up um and what you have to do here is there's a slight pin at the base right down there i need to drive that pin out and then remove this part here and then i need to transfer that onto the new one now as you can see just on the side down there that's where our pin goes so i'm going to need two hands to do that but uh as you can see this is my my bearing now i don't want to break any of that because that's all got to be transferred over and that there has got a bit of wear on it definitely in that mid section nothing too bad but we're gonna change it anyway so the flange is ready to come off now i've got to admit this was a little bit of a problem and there's also a little spacer there don't lose that it's got to go on the new one now there was a slight problem with mine it looked like they'd used some kind of thread lock in here so i think it was somehow sticking and holding the flange in a little bit so i used a bearing puller which we're going to be using a little later on put it into one of these holes here and just give it a tiny little tug and then that was it it just all popped out no problem at all so that's ready to go on we've got one more job to do here though so on our throw out bearing we've got to change over this little bit here uh it's got a tiny little pin through it's got to knock that out but first of all the other thing that i hadn't even noticed until i looked at the parts last night was our replacement sensor here look at the sensor that actually comes with a replacement magnet so the magnet just put that over there safely sits inside here so what we're going to do is we're going to remove the old one and since we have a new one we're going to put it in so i'm just going to do that now and then we'll change the thing over so i think keeping it steady like this it's going to give you the best chance of getting that screw out okay so we've got it set up on the new one here pin is in just gonna knock it in very carefully this side is ready to reassemble now we have the bearing all set up with a little magnet in there with the flange we have a little spacer there but behind the flange there's two little o-rings down here which are the end of the kind of channel from these two lines from our clutch little block here to feed through come through here come through here and end up here and uh i'm gonna not take any risks i'm gonna replace those but i don't have them it doesn't say anywhere to replace those as part of the kit they're like a few pence so i'm gonna pick a couple of those up and uh also the other problem the main kind of problem here is one of the little screws that kind of goes in here and screws and holds this bracket in place it has started to round off very slightly and i'm not going to take any risks because eventually this is going to have to come out again so i'm going to get another screw that's five pence a couple of o-rings and then we'll put this side back together in the meantime i'm going to give it a bit of a clean up so that is the gearbox the transmission side of things almost taken care of once we've got those two little bits we'll throw that back together so that is done what do you guys think so far would you take this on yourself i think it's quite easy uh and you know it's quite a lot of space around this car to work anyway let me know what you think in the comments below i'm going to uh have a well deserved coffee and then we're going to move on to the engine side of things and actually do all the flywheel and the clutch itself okay let's take a look at this side of things excuse the legs this is my office for the rest of the afternoon i'm just sat here on the stool plenty of space it's really cool so let's have a quick look at this well we got here we got the ring gear here on the outside so this is the upgraded version so in 2002 ferrari changed the design of this to have six bolts two four six the original ones i believe just had three and the problem with those is they sheared and they caused all kinds of problems this thing would just literally disintegrate and peel off and so they upgraded it to a six bolt pattern now the function of that is we use our starter motor here you see the little gear on the end of that that connects to that and when you fire up your car to start with that is how it all works so that is our ring gear that's going to come off then we've got our pressure plate here in between this we have our clutch disc and then we've got our flywheel so we are going to be changing all of this today and uh a few other bits behind it all right let's start by removing the ring gear so i have already loosened these off they were not bad at all so we got six bolts as i explained before for those reasons [Music] [Music] okay so that is our ring gear and having a good look around it apart from a tiny corner on one or two teeth just here it looks very good you go a little bit on that one we're going to do the same again with our clutch pressure plate okay let's take a look and see just how bad this disc is okay so this is my desk that has done a lot of miles and as you can see a little bit shiny hardly any any of the grooves left on it at all on this side on this side very similar but there you go that is a very well used and enjoyed clutch desk so there we go that's uh that's that side that goes that way and we've got this we've got a few marks on it that goes like that and then we got the flywheel as well and to be honest this wasn't really slipping too badly at all probably like two or three times this has slipped on me other than that it seemed to work quite fine time to get the big guns out this is courtesy of my good man mark at mac tools [Music] three things we're going to do in this area before we start putting all the clutch on we are going to change the rear main seal here we're going to change this bearing in the middle and we're going to change this little o-ring down here so all of them should be hopefully pretty straightforward so first of all let's start with the bearing so what i've got here is a little bearing puller okay so we put this bit in here and what happens as i tighten it up it splays this out and sits in between there so i'm gonna put a link to the kit i got it was a few quid i think it's about 50 quid something like that just a cheapie but it does the job right let's see if i can do this without actually let's put that over here you guys can see that hopefully we screw our slide hammer on the end there [Music] there you go not bad so our bearings out now we're going to change the rear main seal [Music] [Music] okay so we've knocked that seal out that's good now i'm going to put this back on here temporarily until i get this new gasket one thing we can do though is push our new bearing in place there so i'm just gonna knock that in lovely okay so we've got a few more little bits that i have ordered up just to complete the job hopefully this is it now we can throw it all back together and the clutch is done on the 360. let me show you quickly what i've ordered up so we've got a little tiny cotter pin that was 5p uh i've got this little bit here this is a little tea piece and the reason i ordered that is when i was looking at this this is the second time that thing has broken in the last 12 years of ownership so that connects those two together and it just seems to be a weak part that gets a bit brittle we've got our two little screws here to put the sensor back into the gearbox over there i've got a new gasket to go on that back plate that i've taken off to get the rear main seal out make that job easy i've got the two little gaskets that again sit in the transmission the gearbox and i've also got this little gasket which i'm going to replace which sits underneath here while i'm in here i may as well just replace that as all of the gaskets in in that area done so we're all good we're good to start putting this thing back together so replacement o-ring just popped a little bit of grease in there just to hold it in place when we push the two parts together okay then it's our rear main seal but what i'm going to do first is i'm just going to put a little bit of fresh oil around here and around the actual seal itself as well just to help get that in nice and smoothly i'm gonna do my old one which is up there line up okay we're all ready to go now everything's in place we just got a bolt on the flywheel and all the clutch and then a couple little bits more on there to do and it all goes back together okay one thing i want to just say here is the flywheel can only go on in one position because the holes one of them is slightly offset so it won't allow you to put all eight bolts in there it will feel like one is going off now a good tip would be to mark where your old flywheel comes off of the car so you put a little mark on the actual crankcase and actually an alignment mark on the flywheel uh the reason is the reason it is only in one position is if i come here you have got a one single little cut out here on the square teeth at the back and that is for your pick up points on the two crankshaft sensors okay next we need to talk up the eight bolts to the correct spec now a little handy tip if like me you're trying to do this single-handedly you need to be able to lock the engine rotation in order to do up the flywheel bolts to 96 newton meters which is quite tight indeed so have a look at this we need to really try and lock this flywheel in place so all i've got is just this pry bar here and it's just wedged onto the ground into one of the teeth here and that does the trick let's just show you so i'm just doing my opposite ones here there we go one so that is our flywheel in place all of the eight bolts are talked up correctly to factory spec now before i build that out a bit further with the clutch disc and put all that in place i'm just going to give the face of that a quick clean up using some cleaner and a lint-free cloth and just wipe off all of my greasy finger barks next is our clutch disc and pressure plate we're going to put those on now in order to do that it's advisable to have one of these this is the alignment tool slots in there like so we get our disk now that is orientated this way so we got the big protruding part here out facing outwards slides on here like and so we just put the pressure plate on the other side and then i'm just going to get all the bolts ready we can torque it all up okay so our 15 bolts have all gone in around the side here so 5 10 15 and the way i've done it is we just do a little bit at a time on the opposing ones and then gradually tighten them up just a little bit so it just goes on flush and then finally i'm going to talk these up to correct spec finally our ring gear is the same that's going on six bolts and they are also 18 newton meters don't forget to take that out clutch side is now all done it's ready we're going to do the gearbox transmission side now so we're just going to reassemble all of this with the new parts i've got the uh extra little bolts that i've just bought this morning and we're gonna put everything in here correctly okay so that's our two new o-rings in place and now we're gonna put the flange on [Music] [Applause] [Music] now i'm gonna attach that one there so [Music] so um [Music] okay so we have this slightly in place so the bearing is on the flange just a little bit i've got my springs in place and then all i need to do is just put these collars just in there it says it's going to be easy but it's not that needs to go in there like that sits on there same on the other side screw it in a little bit and then we're going to tighten the whole thing up [Music] okay so this is all back together now it feels amazingly good uh nice and smooth completely different to the bearing that come off we've got the new flange on there the bearing the sensor all new bolts at the back there and it's now ready to mount back on to the engine okay i have lifted it into place we're nearly ready to go into the car now we need to do it so that the studs line up nicely with this and it doesn't go on at an angle because we don't want to whatever we do bend those studs now it's quite heavy managed to get it out myself but i'm not going to risk it i'm going to get this done properly so we need some muscle which is hard to come by around here so we're just going to have to make use of stew and dexter he's probably got more muscle anyway we're going to try and get it on i'm going to get a couple of bolts on and then we're good to go so i'm going to get in the car and um this is probably the most stupid thing ever but i'm going to do it with flip-flops on so i think if i so we've got to get it up yeah over here yeah kind of trying between my legs maybe if i stand on that like that and that yeah yeah if i lift that hold up i've got the heavy end ready yep go down on your side yeah i'm down come in here okay go in that way a little bit more that's it there okay oh yeah that's it yeah job done nice lines up perfectly cheers joe he's a lot stronger than he looks it's all gradually coming back together now the gearbox is all in drive shafts are in i'm just slowly rebuilding it up there's nothing special with this it's just a reverse of taking it all apart and once it's all done i'm going to put some oil in the gearbox in the engine and then we're on to the next stage now the engine is almost back together we've got a couple more things to put on we've got the exhaust system we've got the mass airflows and the throttle bodies up here but i'm leaving them off for a second because it gives me much more access to do things like refill it with oil do the gearbox oil and do all our clutch and our actuator bleed so that is what we're going to do next the gearbox takes four liters but i don't think we got all four out of this one and to be honest the car has probably done a thousand miles since i last did the service two years ago so i'm not too worried the engine oil is much easier the access is right here so the only thing with the engine oil is it needs to be checked when the engine is warm so i'm going to put some in and then i'm going to drive the car and just keep topping it up as necessary next thing we're going to do is bleed both the actuator and the clutch block which is just down there now i should have probably done that with frame off it would have made my life a lot easier but there you go i didn't think about it anyway we're going to do that in order to do that we need my computer so we're going to plug our dongle in to the obd2 socket which is down under there [Music] beep go to ferrari i'll communicate and then i'm gonna use 430 because i know that works system selection and then we're going to go gearbox special functions and then i'm going to do actuator bleed and then i'm gonna go and open up the bleed valves now it's not a great design this because basically this side that sits flush against the side of the gearbox has the three bleed screws here so what i need to do is just open those up half a turn to a turn and then fire off the computer the other thing to do before you start is make sure your reservoir is topped right up with the correct fluid now it doesn't go right the way to the top this is about three quarters because it rises as it pumps the system you can hear that there you go filled it too much even though it was three quarters probably about two-thirds that is just bleeding out all of the air from here and then we shut off the valves when it finishes it takes about a minute and there you go that's done we just shut those up and that is ready to go back on the side of the car gearbox sorry so the rain has finally stopped and i've just spotted a few more things on the car so we're ready now to do the clutch block bleed so we are going to do clutch actuator bleed there but let me just tell you a couple of things first of all this does use quite a bit of fluid so just make sure you're ready to top it up and if i come down here i'm going to show you what we need to do so this is my clutch block there there is a bleed nipple on the back i've got a pipe now i'm going to do it straight into a bucket just to see if i can show you exactly what goes on here so i just need to loosen up the bleed nipple and then i just need to go clutch actuator bleed and then it really comes out as some pressure some force okay so just be ready like i say to top it up let's see okay it's good there we go you can see quite a bit of air in that to start with and now i'm just gonna keep an eye on that and as you can see we're running low down there what you don't want to do is run out okay and that's good that's good and then as you can see that is looking a little bit milky now finally before we bolt on our actuator to the side of the gearbox of transmission we need to put some little sealant here some gasket seal so this is the stuff i use lock type 510 and there we go you don't want to go over the top of this just a little kind of bead around it and that is plenty so i'm going to bolt the actuator back on seal it with the seven mil nuts and then we're good to go so we're almost done the car is back together just the back bumper to go on so i'm just going to do a couple more things here we are going to do a reset the wear index then i'm going to set my p-i-s so current value is 4.22 i'm going to write it to 4.2 and then what we're going to do that's a good place to start 0.2 and then what we do is we drive the car we feel it and then we adjust it up very slightly until we get the right value so the car is back together we've turned it round it worked so far i've done a couple more things just twice i've run them again that was the clutch bleed we did the actuator one more time just because i had a few issues to start with i've rechecked all my levels and now it's time to take it out for a little spin keep those fingers crossed well guys if you made it this morning the video a big plan on the back it's a huge one this is a long one but it is done to really help a lot of people with these kind of cars anyway we're on the final leg of the uh journey we're out testing the car i'm gonna do about 20 miles on it we've got with me two things i've got oil we're going to pull over in a bit the engine is up to temperature i'm going to check the levels top those up in vp then i've got the computer with me now we set the clutch to 4.2 i can feel a little bit of slippage in the moment so what i'm going to do is i'm going to wind that down very slightly in increments and just continue to drive it test it adjust it until i find the perfect sweet spot and that is really where the car is just fighting perfectly it's not where the car is just starting to move and creep off without you doing anything if that is the case you need to back it off inside anyway we're gonna do that we're gonna do that again in a few minutes time as the clutch is kind of bending it i've got with me stu in the truck in front i'm not i'm confident that the job has been done but this car has uh a few issues and um well i don't want to take any chances that is it that is what we're doing on this one hope you enjoyed it if you did please do give it a thumbs up it really helps the channel subscribe and make sure you hit that bell notification so you don't miss any of the videos i release you can also check out what i get up to on a daily basis over on my instagram on social media feeds and don't forget for the time being until the end of august you can get free shipping worldwide on things such as the clutch kit from two performance by using my code rata rossa in the checkout i hope you enjoyed it guys i will see you very shortly in the next one until then ciao [Music]

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Views: 235,230

Rating: 4.9238586 out of 5

Keywords: free, shipping, superformance, ferrari, parts, clutch, bearing, rear main, seal, actuator, sd2, sd3, sdx, ratarossa, ferrari 360, modena, spider, stradale, challenge, diy, abandoned, i bought, rebuild, rotting, barn, find, gas monkey garage, monkey garage, goonzquad, SamCrac, sam crac, ammo, chrisfix, tavarish, ammoNYC, Ammo NYC, larry kosilla, larry, kosilla, smoking tire, clean, 12 years, detail, transformation, hoovies, hooviesgarage, hoovie, rust, ferraricollector, bodywork, old, repairs, tools, garage

Id: 7LGjlMQFGNQ

Length: 52min 19sec (3139 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 30 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/moovzlikejager]

Aaahhh yes! thank you, now i can finally change the clutch on that ferarri in my driveway......