Cylinder Square Reconditioning

[Music] okay guys we're going to recondition a cylinder square today and this has some staining as you can see there's a little bit of staining in a couple places where it was put away in the box i don't know maybe there's some cool on or somebody's hand prints they didn't oil it before they put it away it's got some staining it's got a cylindrical grind on the bottom which actually looks very good um and then the grinding on the sides looks okay and the top is just surface ground you can see they're longitudinal so this is not a measuring surface up here but this little cylinder square has everything you need to recondition it it's got centers on both sides it's got a way to drive it it's got recesses on both sides a place to grind so it's uh it's it's pretty good just ready to go i mean it's got everything you need to do a regrind we're going to go get in here and clean out these centers get a little bit of lube in there get it up on the herrig and set the machine up there's a special dress we're going to do with a grinding wheel but while it's here on the bench i'm just going to measure it for parallelism you know we're going to check it here and we can check it for eccentricity later and over here i'm measuring 2 6 2.624 and give it a flip and over here i'm 2.62 so parallel yes it is we'll check it in the middle too it's very parallel so we don't really care what the end's doing because we're going to regrind it anyways we don't care if it's out of square or not we don't doesn't do this any good to check it we're going to just kiss it uh it doesn't look like they were making full contact on their cylindrical grind there's no cross hatch on the bottom the grinding marks are only going one direction so uh let's let's clean the centers lube up the centers we've already got a place to drive it uh let's let's show you the grinding wheel set up the herring setup and then we'll bring this guy in and then do a regrind on it okay i've already dressed the wheel but i pulled the guard out of the way so you can see how i did it uh this is the radius and tangent dresser it's a yuasa and you you turn your uh protractor on there until you're past 90 degrees in this case it was 91 degrees so we use the traverse function to traverse across the wheel at a 91 degree angle so what it's doing is it's leaving a sharp outer edge out here all right and then after we were done with that all we did was take a spin around to zero and run across the wheel with the axis of the machine flat okay so we've done two different dresses on it um you know just uh to the side traverse spin around run the machine across so we brought this outer edge very sharp and that's where we're going to be doing the cut on the bottom of the cylinder square all right so now that the wheels prepped i couldn't really shut it's it's really difficult to get a camera angle when you're actually dressing the wheel because you've got all the guards closed up and it just it just literally hides everything so as you put all this stuff back on and then you flip the back one down and you just can't see anything so um but i did want to show you how that how that dresses up all right next we can get the electric spin set up and on the machine and parallel with the axis of the machine okay next thing to do is get your get your spinner installed on your mag plate and some of you guys that have the smaller uh travel machines there's only six inch travel in this direction you got to take off your back fence and hang it out the back and what that uh what that's gonna do to you is you're gonna you know you've lost all index and you've got no way to get this thing squared up so you need to indicate it in i've got a little tense indicator here uh be exact and i'll tell you if you don't do this you're gonna end up with an hourglass shaped part let me let me tell you why because maybe uh maybe you don't get it parallel to the axis of the machine when you're when you're back here in the back you're going to start grinding over here on this side you're going to traverse across come up on the crown of the part and you're going to traverse over to this side so your ends will be big and your middle will be small and you're going to be grinding an hourglass so you got to get the start off with the machine first and then we're going to switch this out to a test bar check it with a test bar to get our height of our our rear center is adjustable to get the get the taper out so uh first up indicate it in be very picky use a tense indicator and get it spot on i'm going to use a uh little knocker here that uh randy richard made me it's all it's got lit i don't know you can hear it or not it's uh the head's filled with lead shot but uh randy richard it's got made a this nice little knocker it's a uh brass on one end and uhmw on the other so you can just do these little taps you'd be surprised how little it takes to get that moved around after you get it where you want it don't touch it don't bump it anything you can slide it around on the mag plate pretty easy so next up let's get it parallel and then we'll do a test bar and and uh you know see how how you know first thing you got to do is check the travel you gotta make sure you can come off the part remember we're gonna be grinding in the back and on the top so i'm already the machine's already as far as it can go this way and i've got it just so it passes off of this thing so i've got plenty of uh travel to come down and come off the part here and uh still do my plunge and and do a do an end cut all in one operation so let's get it um let's get it parallel with the axis and we'll go from there okay so we got our test indicator on there and we're gonna and we've got the part in there too so we're gonna induce a little bit of vibration just by uh running the electric spin and gotta get our parts spinning and uh we can zero it out and that will pull some of the stitching or hysteresis out of the system save me from tapping on it and we're just going to uh start running it down and see how parallel we are here i'm seeing a tenth and we're just now setting this up so we can tap it around a little bit so it's dropping off maybe about a tenth there so overall there is about a tenth so i'm gonna the way it's sliding around on the plate i'm just gonna it's probably gonna teeter-totter i'm just gonna pull try to pull half of that error out of there which ain't a lot got my little bumper here so let's try that and we go the other direction there's going to be backlash in the whole system yeah i see it snapped up to zero let's see how close it stays on zero all the way across okay that's at the end of the stroke and you can see when i change directions see how it jumps i'm going the other direction now so i'm going to call it there i think we're good all right i've got my um table locked let me zoom out and i'll try to show you over here i've got my table locked here so i if i pull this pin just pull the pin back that'll release my table but i've got my center line of my grinder wheel even with the center line of my actual work right now so i can always return to this uh place anywhere i want but when i'm when i'm center line to center line okay so next up we're going to adjust the tail stock of the herrick and we're gonna we're gonna sweep across the top of this we already know this uh this square is parallel because we miked it over on the bench so we're gonna go ahead and run across the top of this um work and adjust the tail stock up and down until we get a zero zero reading so that's next okay i got the wheel guard open here so that's the only way you're going to be able to see what i'm doing um but i've got the test indicator on the work and i'm all over it i'm all the way to the back of the part and i'm just going to start slowly sweeping to the rear so i've got a zero uh setting here out at the front and i'm actually starting to drop as i move my way along and you enjoy you can enjoy the uh soothing sounds of my ice maker we're making ice today up here in the shop okay so the indicator's falling off i'm seeing uh one two about three tenths we're starting to get a little bit of a bounce so we've lost some concentricity we're coming up on four tenths bounce between four tenths and half a thou and again here at the end and i i'm hearing a kind of a scratchy noise and i've seen a lot more bounce like this thing was dropped maybe um but what i've got in the back i've got an allen wrench in my tail stock so i'm going to make an adjustment on the tail stock and actually try to what am i going to do i'm going to raise the tail stock okay that would be lowering the tail stock let's go the other way and this is all cause and effect all right i'm up to where i'm calling that zero it's sweeping above and below zero and we'll take it back to our starting point remember we started off with something parallel so i didn't have to use a test bar if you got something that just came out of heat treat and you're just rough machined you're gonna have to use a test bar to set up you can't use your actual work to set up the only reason i'm using this is because it did prove to be very parallel over on the bench with the micrometers so i'm going to say this is a really good place to start here i'm coming back up to my beginning and you can you can start to hear it you start seeing the bounce you can hear it kind of getting scratchy so i don't know when you hear that it's dragging along that indicator ball and it starts to jump a little bit if i back off here it gets real quiet and kind of kind of steadies down so we're with we're within a tenth of parallel right now so i'm pretty happy with that and i think we're good to start making a grind on this thing we'll run it back and see if that we think that tail stock needs any more work but i sure don't think it does it's funny you see something jump up right about there like a handprint or some rust or something on it i never really all i cleaned on this thing was the centers and i do have white lead in the centers so i am going to be shipping something out known to the state of california to cause cancer and other reproductive harm that's prop 65. i think everyone's got that memorized by now right okay see i'm seeing a little wiggle above and below so i'm going to call that zero until i can get a grind on it get a better measurement we got plenty of room to get in here and get a mic on it so we can actually mic it right in place but i need to close the wheel guard and do the actual grind alrighty so that's uh that's that okay well we're ready to touch off and start working our way across does light do you any good does me an awful lot of good [Music] i don't even see sparks or not but they're just they're jumpy they're not it's not completely consistent at least we can have a peek at it yeah so we fixed that one spot that got the i think it's probably the side that got dropped it's pretty heavy over there so we're going to come down another couple tenths run it back across i need to get a full contact all the way across where i can even get a measurement are you starting to see a pattern you can see where over here some rust stains and here they kind of disappeared so we're getting we're getting more concentric and getting uh getting it back into where the centers were so i got some staining kind of deep that i didn't get out so we are so far we've done about a four tenths plunge uh you know since we hit material so we're gonna do another two tenths across and maybe another two after that so we'll uh let's keep it growing [Music] there's still some staining down there he said he wanted all that out so i i guess i need to get a little more to get this actual stain out but while we're getting the stain out we might as well be getting it straight so let me get uh let me get my mic and we'll check it two six two four lay down at the bottom actually it's too way down low it's 26239 so we could actually zero that real quick and check up here and see what our bias is all right now we got actually two tenths difference so that's one tenth on a radius so we need to lift the back is small we can't lift the front so we have to lower the back one tenth and we will put our indicator back on here now i don't know whether i'm going to try to get you in there i'm just going to take this allen wrench and read right on my is there any chance you can see that no chance you're gonna have to take my word for it i'm gonna just take that and i'm gonna lower that tail stock uh 1 10. [Music] so well we got it straight there boy looks pretty good so i got a little bit of staining oh yeah it's pretty damn square right there or pretty premium parallel all right we're gonna make one more pass try to clean up the uh some of that staining and i'm just gonna go for like another tenth [Music] all right [Music] i don't know if you guys can see that i'm just seeing little flickerings of sparks coming out of there so we're getting good averaging across the length of the heart off the wheel and at this point anything can influence this leaning on the machine anything just stay away and crank the handle as smoothly and evenly as you can don't even sneeze on this i don't really see any more flickerings out there i think we're good uh now we're ready to address the back and remember we've got that leading edge of the wheel outside of the wheel nice and sharp and we're ready to uh drop down come in and do a side wheel on that rear so i'm gonna get set up for that try to get you a good angle on it and maybe get some light on the subject and let's put ryan back there so so as i get a little bit of contact i'm going to flood it with uh so okay that wasn't much all i got to do is skim that periphery it looks like we got a full crosshatch now no burning looks good okay okay so we can check a lot of this stuff right here on the machine we can check our back grind you can hear that little carbide ball skating so nice and steady now we can check the see how good our grind is out here whether you see that or not but that's uh very little needle bounce i can barely hear it but there's and there's if you can detect it you're probably better than i am it just uh it's so hard to detect any needle movement there it is it is moving but gosh it's not much okay so i'm pretty pleased with that um now at that point now that i've checked this this bottom in a couple of places i've checked the sides and i made a sweep down the side and i've miked it i'm within uh 50 millionths over the length of this thing as far as parallelism so all that's left to do now is you know put it on the surface plate and check it for square uh you know we're checking north south east and west so we'll uh we'll go do that we'll get the square master hooked up and i think we're done with this thing okay so fresh off the grinder and we got a bias on our set on our uh micrometer here and we're zeroed up there feels nice go to the center feels good we're not cutting our glasses here and we get back to zero do our bottom feels good so we're very parallel next up is square now you notice i put four dots on here north south east and west we're gonna set up the square master on the plate and uh basically a cylinder square is dead simple and they're self-checking you know if parallelism exists then square can exist and even if they're not square if parallelism exists they're always square in at least one place even if this thing was wiggling around like this there's actually two places and they'll be 180 degrees apart um so square can only exist if parallel parallelism exists so uh let's set up the square master and play with it okay so we've got the uh we got the cylinder square all done we've mic'd it for parallelism and now we're going to check it for square i've calibrated my square master up against a known uh square but if you know that parallelism exists these squares are virtually self-checking all you have to do is check them 180 degrees apart you notice i've got some paint dots north south east and west that's also to remind uh dennis when he goes to use it that this is not a working surface this is the top and the bottom is the side that is ground and you can there you can see the spiral pattern on the bottom where it got reground okay so let's check it for square i got my little tents tapper everybody makes fun of that and uh we're gonna check it for square and no more rides on the square master you know my gopro bit the dust i used to put this the gopro right there and you guys could take a ride on the square master everybody thought that was fun but those days are over until i get a new gopro not that keen on gopros anyways the square master has about two tenths of backlash between the upswing and the downswing so what we're going to do is we're going to roll into it that's always a good sound here that little squeak sounds like a dolphin uh that lets you know that you're sitting good and flat on the on the uh on the granite now i'm going to pull up and we're probably going to lose yep see that backlash there and i'm going to take that backlash out and make a sweep i'm hoping you guys can see that gauge that's my youtube gauge [Music] with the blue cellophane on it and we're going to repeat 180 degrees here we give it a little pull make sure the gauge isn't going to do anything funny and we'll make our sweep looks good got two more axes to check and all we're doing now is checking squarism let's get the backlash out of it tap it back in and make our sweep 180 backlash looking good all right all right guys uh dennis um hope you hope you found that a fair trade for those kdk tool holders uh everyone else i hope you learned something on being able to grind this whole uh top grind it parallel get it very round get rid of all the eccentricities off the centers and grind your base all at the same time same op and with the same grinding wheel it takes a little bit of prep a little bit of setup overall grind time on this was about two and a half hours um all right guys thanks for watching and we'll see you on the next one [Music] you

Channel: Shadon HKW

Views: 6,104

Rating: 4.9771428 out of 5

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Id: HgYJlNlpY5M

Length: 29min 58sec (1798 seconds)

Published: Tue Jul 06 2021