Taking a cube to size + square

hey morning guys welcome to Farsi my name is Stan and today I'm probably gonna touch on a subject that's already been beaten to death and that's how to square up stock in a mill and the first thing you got to realize is that a block doesn't have four sides it has six sides so you need to you know take that into consideration now what we're taking we're starting with a piece of this is actually a high-density polyethylene and this is band saw cut all sides so we've got no good reference surface anywhere it's just rough band saw cut and we just turned basically returned the 9 inch round into a six inch square and our final dimensions on the block are six by six by five five point one twenty so that's that's your finished block there it's six by six that way five of them twenty this way so let's get set up let's talk about the tools you're going to need you need to just still like it with a little dead low or rubber mallet you're gonna need a deburring tool this is a Noga but it also you I'm using the plastic they make tips and D bearing parts that snap into these just for plastic they make them for cast-iron the name for plastic and they make them for steel get the plastic ones and don't ever use them on anything except plastic I've got a depth indicator that sort of it's this is a new old stock Fowler but this is this is a pretty nice setup and I use it around the machining come right to the edge and just measure straight down to your vise and measure for your for your length and I'll show you how to calibrate that too I'm using the square the stock I'm using want to chuck scree balls but you can use the round rod trick too with this stuff but screen balls work good so I'm actually using those you're gonna need a nice big pair of dial calipers these are some 12 inches you know when you get out that big the six institute measuring six inch on a six inch caliper doesn't work well and then I've got a couple of one two three blocks and we're using the Dro to set our depth and we use these to actually calibrate the Dro the way I calibrate the Dro is whatever is reading out on the Dro is what size my block is and after you've got it set we just leave it alone and start running your parts you know it takes a little bit to set them up but it's all cause and effect you make a cut you measure and make sure that the RO matches and you just at the RO until you start getting consistent results and you sneak up on it very slowly to make sure you're hitting your marks so it's all cause and effect you know if you if you call for 20 thousands of a cut you ask yourself am I getting twenty thousand sore am I only cutting out 18 even though I'm called for called for 20 so it's all cause and effect and different materials in act differently so the plastic is very easy to cut when I started out I was calling for you know maybe a fifty thousand step to cut but I was actually you know the tip of the cutter and the speed and whether it was running in the machine I was actually getting like 50 mm so I made that to thousands adjustment and the Dro until it came in and started getting started getting consistent so let me get this out of the way and then we'll start setting up for doing our hour cuts and get the block squared we're gonna we're gonna take it square and take the size all in the same operation all right I'll bring you back okay first couple things you want to do and make sure you gotta set accurate one two three blocks these already know and trust I'm gonna use the vise here is to calibrate money a dial indicator you sure everything's all clean and I'm just going to stack two of them together now these are one two three blocks so this is six inch this is the same size as we want our block we want to block six inches so we're going to take take this we're just going to right down the center and we're going to calibrate our our indicator right there we're on zero just whoops just just clock it around the you're at zero that way you've no this is calibrated for 6-inch so when I come up on zero zero on the dial I know I'm six inches and you can monitor your progress as you work the other thing that's handy is just a big part of dialing dial calipers if you take the part out you wanna be able to check them so that's what these are for the other thing you want to do is come in here and set this on the bed of the vise and set your gr oh now I've already set it and you just want to come in with your tool and just touch your touch your one two three blocks at six inch me and look up what your Dro and make sure you're at six inch you know you know and I'm gonna just lightly touch your tool so six inches up there punch that number in you know pick a coordinate which is Z or you're actually these pictures the axes and you know punch in you know minus six or plus six whatever to make it read correctly that way wherever your quill is that's what size your part is now when I come down here and touch I'm showing five point nine nine six which means I'd be under if I cut right here but I have calibrated with the machine running everything's going to change everything matters the vibrate the machine the way the earth spinning the way the moons are aligned everything matters so what you what you're actually getting and what the Dro reads maybe two different things on this initial calibration so as you're as you're coming to size you need to be able to measure it in the vise see what the Dro is reading and see what you're actually getting according to this I'm off nine nine six so I'd be off what four thousand I'd be four thousand small but that's not the case I'm hitting my numbers right on the button I'm within a vowel making these blocks six and now my specs five thousand but I'm still making them a little more accurate than they need to be all right so that's how you calibrate the Dro for size let's get started let's get this thing in there for the first time and start getting it square we're gonna work on the 6-inch sides first and we're going to leave that five 124 laps so all I'm gonna do is I'm going to take a Noga and just do these corners make sure the corners are clean we're not sitting on any funny little burrs or anything so you're just gonna kind of deburr your block because it's just a big jumpy mess right now with all those bandsaw cuts and everything so you don't want that interfering with any of your fits and you know you know you're not square because I mean how close can you really get with a bandsaw plastic and this is cut oversized you know we've got probably a couple hundred thousands per side to play with so we we already know we got plenty of material to work with and like I said this is a polyethylene this is the HDPE it's a high-density polyethylene it's a little rubbery it cuts okay it doesn't thread good I don't like the way it threads but the threads are durable you know they they're kind of rubbery feeling you tighten something up on there and it just kind of bounces back you know you can feel it you kill the thread stretch and in soon as you release it the threads just kind of bounce back where they were so kind of interesting all right that's pretty clean why we're gonna start here you want to leave yourself somewhere to measure you know we're gonna be measuring down into bed we're gonna be using mr. screwy ball here and you see that thing pick up so that tells you right there you're not square we're touching back here in the back but not here in front let me get you guys just a tad closer what a movie you move you down a little bit there Tim all right you see we're touching back here but not here see where it lifted so that's pretty common I'm going to tap it down tight just in the back you know out of the way here and all we're doing right now is just getting one surface so you notice I'm not hitting here I'm hitting just back here and just knocking it down and the first thing we want to do now is just get one surface that we trust and clean so we're gonna just clean up this one surface and then we're gonna start flipping it this way and I'll tell you when to use the ball and when not to use the ball we're not going to dimension yet so we don't have to worry about this or make it a flat surface we don't need to worry about this we do need to deeper but you need a hammer so we'll need those here all right what would this light do to you with this achillea no that's not terrible you guys might even be able to come up a little bit and tip down just a skosh all right all right yeah get a clean sweep on this thing I'm learning this about 500 rpm my tools out six inches this is just a fly cutter single point this is a polished carbide the sharpest ones I could get for aluminum it's a TP whatever two triangular cutter razor-sharp never been used on anything except plastic not even on aluminum so and you know keep your plastic tools separate for sure this is just a turning tool this is just a lathe turning tool okay we're going to fire up and come down and just just touch off till we see some see a pattern form it looks good I'll probably fast-forward to some of this you okay we've got one clean side down and you got away along here and we're just gonna clean four sides with the no guy your burning tool you want to use negative cutting angles when you're using your burning tool drag it don't try to push it or scrape it at a 90-degree angle just drag it across the part and you should see that curly Q come off of there just make a nice clean little chamber on the Florence one last corner here basically you want to like a shearing action when you're using these and touch up your corners I don't have one of those fancy router jigs like definitely got some of your does okay we've got a flat surface we've got one surface that we trust now use a little air here watch your ears and now we're gonna flip it 90 degrees let's get our ball out of there and we're gonna come around like this and we're gonna ball it again again we're not gonna measure we've still got two other surfaces to work with and you again you see it tip up there when I tighten and one make sure to get back in the back keep it square there's gonna be our reference surface this back corner is a reference surface and we know we're vertical to them to the vise jaw okay you're gonna make contact again and just just go to a clean we're not going any size again you okay well I've got a full clean there and again we're gonna deburr right here all four sides and now we've got one good corner that we can index off oh we got two sides that are square with each other we've got one good corn we're gonna index from and now we're gonna I thought this would be a good demonstration because uh you know what I don't have any cutting oil flying around I don't have a hot chips flying around we don't have to worry about the camera so plastic is a great way to demonstrate stuff okay now we know I've got these two sides done one two and we got two that are not done so we're gonna clean them by spit and this time we're going to size so we're on our third side and we're gonna we're gonna use the screw ball again because we've got an irregular surface back here but down on the vise bed and against the jaw is is cleaned and square but we are going to use the screwball again and this time we're gonna seat it all the way down in the vise it's not gonna we shouldn't see you or detect any lifting which I'm not and just down firmly in the vise clamped securely and now we're gonna go to size and the way we do that to double check our Dro we're gonna take this as we cut we can come right in here and rest it right on the top of our cut and go down to the vise bed and measure right off the vise bed see now I'm showing one to about three hundred thousand big so we've got three hundred thousands to plow out of there the maximum depth the cut for this cutter has been about a hundred thousand I'm gonna take a skim cut establish a baseline and then plow a bunch of this stuff off so I'll probably fast-forward through a lot of this you I'll get you guys in a bit closer here so of all I measured and we're just gonna make we're making sure that the Dro and the and what we're actually making here is lining up with each other and we're gonna do burr with that little burr right there it can hold your indicator up at a funny angle or whatever so we're gonna roll a little chamber a night across here all right I don't why I'm deferring all the edges I know I got more to take off of it there we go and then we make sure our Vice bed is clean down here mess with the indicator and we're gonna come down here and measure and I'm uh 1,000 off six point 150 I'm showing six point one five one so pretty good or staying nice and accurate same over here six point one five one so we're within a foul but what our dro is reading out I'm plenty happy with that so let's finish this cut get it down to size and then we'll work on that fourth side I'm gonna put you guys back over here so I got room for handles and stuff to run and let's fire it up again you you all right I want a final deburr before we check it out okay looks good yeah get our ball out of here and we only use the ball on three sides we're basically done with it for now we will check for size right now we're checking the gross this wakes we still got one more side of you we're gonna take those are the big pair of 12 inches here and yep I'm 600 won so yeah it was the 600 won so I'm a thousand feet I'm totally fine with that plastic it's not a very stable material anyway so I'm okay with it being oversized my specs five now plus or minus alright we've got four three sides done now we still got this bandsaw so I love to do we're gonna no ball with the bandsaw cut up we've got a finished surface down on the Vice we've got a finished surface against the rear jaw and now we've got a finished surface against the movable jaw and this is where the curt non lifting design really shines right here does that remote jaw does not lift it all firmly down in the vise bed and now we're ready to plow this top and take it we're gonna square it and take it to six all at the same time you you okay no I'm just gonna ubirr it while it's still on the vise just chasing them walk around on the benches no fun it's already being how old why not this bandsaw cut sides are jumpy as hell yeah we've got a finished corner here we'll make a nice little curlicue all right looks good looks good let's pop it out of the vise check for size and we're measuring this direction now super-sleuth art thou over like we were before calibrated that dro yesterday yeah it's a thousandth or I calibrated that do you I was hitting the mark yesterday perfect on these things and I was at the end of the day and people talked about everything matters people you've heard me say before everything matters now the machine sawed the columns warm you know the base warms up during the day and everything's expands and like that so it's cool this morning the machine's sad all night to cool down so between the difference between a hot machine and the cold machine is about a thousand so that's pretty interesting you know because the Dro was calibrated to device bed yesterday to be right on right on the button but now these parts are in the park temperature that matters to you know plastic is very sensitive to temperature change okay sorry I had a had a phone interruption and we were just finishing up the fourth side we're we're still bandsaw cut here and here and this is our side where we need five 120 right now we're six by six on this these four sides are done okay and I actually recalibrated the machine it's pretty cool this morning and I recalibrated the machine for to get an extra a little bit out of it and I'm gonna try to tip it up while holding that and you can see there I'm hitting my mark and I'm doing that in both directions so I recalibrated the Dro based on the way the moon is and the turning of the tide and all the different things that can possibly happen you know just anything everything matters it's the temperature your machine matters tool deflection and everything temperature your material okay now we're going to put it in against these sides we're still not gonna use any screwballs but look here see that rock we got we need to square it to the machine and I'm gonna try to I'm gonna try to show you how I do it and first thing you do is put the spindle in neutral and move your fly cutter away put your spindle all the way down and spindles are nice because you've got a built-in square right into your machine and I'm gonna show you what to do just using an ordinary scale this is a Oreo 12-inch scale but I'm gonna show you how to line that up I'm gonna put you right here and hopefully so I can still work - and we're gonna shine a light directly in the back kind of at you and you might heart to see where I'm going with this we're gonna tighten our vice but just slightly just so that when I and you can see the part picking up this time we wanted to do that because we're squaring this block on all sides we've done four sides we got top and bottom left to do and we need to establish one surface I'm going to hang my part out the side just a tad I'm gonna tighten the vise slightly so that when I move it when I move the part it stays where I put it or vices these vices are so sensitive all right now we're gonna take this ruler and just set it up against the spindle and bring our part in until we touch that ruler and square it up if you can get straight to the spindle more power to it that's fine but the spindle doesn't in this case the spindle doesn't go down far enough to to go straight to the spindle so we're gonna get in a little bit more and now we're just going to move our block around until we don't see an air-gapped anymore and with your third hand all right I'm pretty happy there I don't see any daylight between the part on this side I don't see any daylight between the spindle over here on this side and I already know that scale is completely parallel I've measured it it's a or grade-a so it's it's a very accurate scale and I'm just using it basically it's a parallel all right so you've got a built-in square in your machine and it's aquila your machine all right so we lock down we know we're para we know we're parallel with the quill we know we're square front and back now we can turn this surface into a into a reference plane so let's get that that cut out of there but you guys back over here and we're on our fifth side you know we're on I'm on stretch helps put head in gear there we go light up on the subject you okay that's the end of our fifths I'd give this a deburr for the last time and now this slide we just cut is going down to the bed of the vise clean we're ready to flip it over and now now we're going for size and our size is 5 point 120 my notepad is my advice it's what I use and here we're going to smack it down tight make sure it's seated in the vise and we're going to over make contact and get going on you all right we'll take it out of the vise and give it a quick measure but I believe this block dimensionally is done and square you know what's square you have that nice record scratch down to it sighs real quick this is the direction we're measuring right here five point one twenty and a half a thousand pretty good so they can get it there maybe you guys can see 220 and 120 point five right there I'm all squared up on it so pretty happy one nineteen and a half to twenty there so that's maybe a half that although no I'm good with it like I say my spec is plus or minus five out so that's how you make a six by six by five 120 block how you make it squared and how you bring it to size and square it all at the same time hope you guys enjoyed this video thanks for watching

Channel: Shadon HKW

Views: 12,292

Rating: 4.9344263 out of 5

Keywords: Mill, milling, flycutter, squaring a block, milling square

Id: YxZhR_xdlkI

Length: 33min 15sec (1995 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 11 2016