Creality CR-10 SE: An Ender-3 S1 Pro w/tons of upgrades for almost the same price, Klipper, Auto Z

welcome back to Aurora Tech Channel today I will review the cr10 SE my first impression from the name cr10 is something with a 300X 300X 400 print volume but in contrast this cr10 SE is more like a high spec Clipper version of the Ender 3 S1 Pro from the size to the one piece injection molded base and to the other parts I remember when the Ender 3 S1 Pro first launched at the price of $499 after almost 2 years it's still priced at around $373 the new cr10 SE is $13 more and so far seems like a more appealing deal but let's take a look at what we can get from it the print volume is 220 X 220x 265 which is 15 mm more than the Ender 3 but 5 mm less than the Ender 3 S1 the motion system uses a 12 mm linear rail on the xais a 24 mm linear rail on the the Y AIS and palm Wheels on the z-axis the y- AIS also uses a Nema 1748 mm high torque motor instead of the regular 34 mm ones the claimed top speed is 600 mm/ second and the maximum acceleration is 8,000 m/s squared which is pretty aggressive for a bed Slinger the extruder is a Sprite extruder with a K1 series hot end with a maximum flow rate of 32 M Cube per second and it's equipped with a harden steel nozzle that can reach up to 300° C the park cooling fan is a 4020 12K RPM turbo blower and it draws 7.2 Watts which is three times more than a regular 4020 blower this machine doesn't come with any auxiliary fan inside the print head there's another 32-bit chip a strain gauge sensor for nozzle probing a CR touch and an accelerometer for input shaper calibration as it comes with two sets of B leveling sensors it can use data from the CR tou and the nozzle strain gauge to automatically calculate the Z offset the print bed can reach up to 110° C there's insulated foam underneath and no manual leveling knobs as the leveling relies solely on the CR Touch Bad Leveling Sensor the Clipper OS runs on the screen which actually works like a minic pad with an ingenic x2000 processor the board comes with 8 GB emmc the motherboard is a regular 32-bit board with tmc2209 silent stepper drivers the touchscreen is 4.3 in and runs the same screen UI as the K1 series but a vertical version instead it supports both cloud printing and local network printing with Wi-Fi there are two USB ports on the side of the screen which also allow you to print completely offline using a USB drive and the other USB port is for an optional camera upgrade for other features it has a filament sensor LED light belt tensioners on both the X and Y AIS and a drawer like on the Ender 3 S1 Pro the hardware of this bed Slinger seems very strong I would like to thank reality for sending me this machine to review and for sponsoring today's video and with that let's get started the box is pretty compact it has a laser foam packaging similar to other creality machines everything is well protected we have the bass a 4.3in touchscreen a dual spool filament holder an LED light a Gantry with the print head some tools C CBL and a user manual like all other beds Slingers we have to connect the Gantry to the base and mount the screen at the right side of the machine Mount the spool holder on top and mount the LED frame at the top as well then we will connect some cables including the Z Motors filament sensor and LED power on the xaxis there's just one stub motor and there's no limit switch as the machine uses sensorless homing connect the print head cable which is a one piece cable with an 8 pin connector finally connect the filament sensor cable and the touchscreen cable the power supply voltage switch is at the back of the machine make sure to flip it to the side that matches your local voltage once it is powered on select your language agree to whatever it says select the SS ID of your Wi-Fi network and enter your password if you see the SS ID is checked and an IP address is showing that means the connection is successful next select your local time zone in my case I will select Pacific Standard time I won't connect this printer to the creality cloud and just use it with my local Wi-Fi okay it's going to run a self test starting with heating up the nozzle and the bed once it's done it's going to set this the offset automatically the print head cover is too bulky and I can't see what's going on here here so I will remove it and then continue it probes the bed using the CR Touch first and then probes it again using the nozzle it's going to check a few different points on the bed and compare the data with the CR touch and nozzle to find out the correcty offset after it's done it will perform a 49 point autoed leveling it seems the travel speed is quite fast so let's see how much time is required to finish this 49p point bed leveling it finishes the first row with seven points in around 10 seconds and for all seven rows it takes a minute and 10 seconds which is really fast after that it will calibrate input shaping the screen is showing a spinning cursor icon and you can hear the print head vibrating followed by the print bed okay after about 6 to 7 minutes it's done the screen UI is similar to the K1 series only vertical but the menu structure and buttons are basically the same we don't have anything on the onboard emmc so let's go to the settings and see if we already have the latest firmware the machine already comes with the latest one so we can just load some filament press the extrude button and the nozzle will heat up automatically I will start with sunlo purple pla okay let's insert the USB drive and see if we have a sample fast Bene to see what this machine is capable of doing let's try the 20-minute Beni for this fast Beni gcode the first layer is printed very aggressively the print head is too bulky to block everything but from the speed it moves it should be close to 150 mm/s now the first layer is done and the coolon fan is at full power I will let it print another two layers and run it top speed then check the sound level I place the meter 6 in away and the sound level stays in the low 60s the fan is actually louder than anything else so even if the print head moved moves rapidly it doesn't impact the sound level that [Music] much the print finishes in a little less than 20 minutes the print quality is decent I can't see any cooling issues and the surface quality also isn't bad let's compare it with the fastest printer I've tested so far the bamboo lab X1 Carbon the X1 Carbon completed the print a bit quicker in just 17 minutes in terms of layer quality the X1 Carbon is also better due to its core XY kinematics which might be challenging for a bed Slinger to match but surprisingly the cr10 SE outperformed the X1 Carbon in cooling even without the auxiliary fan found on the X1 Carbon it appears that an extremely powerful turbo blower positioned at a close distance still works really well for the cr10 SE then I will do a clearance test I will use creality print to slice the number slider the estimated print time is 3 hours and 4 minutes so it seems the print profile is slightly slower than I expected normally I would expect this model to be around 2 hours and 45 minutes let's take a look at the default profile the infill and travel speed is set to 300 M per second the outer wall is 200 the top and bottom is 120 and the first layer is 50 which looks normal for the acceleration it is set to 5,000 m/s squared for infill and track travel the walls are from 2K to 3K and the first layer is 2K the speed of this profile is slightly slower but I will just leave it as I normally won't change any settings for test prints and just use the recommended settings and let the printer print right out of the box so I will just send it to the printer on my local network without using the cloud on my screen I can see the box is checked and showing a progress bar when uploading the file but I'm not sure why the screen capture software didn't capture that I tried to upload another file and record the screen using my phone and it should look like [Music] this the first layer looks good it's a tiny bit lower than what I prefer as for this number slider I would rather have the Z offset be set a bit higher rather than lower otherwise the first layer of the tiles may stick together but I think it should be fine as I can see a gap between them so I will just let it finish as is and not try to manipulate [Music] anything as this slider is just printing with the normal profile it'll be slower than a 20 minute benie but the sound level stays the same I think the Lou sound is from the fan so no matter if the motion system is moving faster or slower it won't make a big difference and the sound level still stays in the low 60s the print finally finished in 3 hours and 21 minutes the top of the print looks good with almost no stringing and the bottom has no issues except I did have to separate one tile as its first layer was sticking to the other tile the clearance is also good and the slider can move freely next I would try a tough model my own honeycomb box design it contains many tiny patterns and it's a bit challenging for a lot of extruders to completely print the patterns as you can see the extruder just prints a drop of filament and needs to retract it [Music] immediately the print finished in 2 hours and 52 minutes and it printed successfully without broken patterns there's a bit more stringing than ideal so let's compare it to a few other machines that successfully or mostly successfully printed this model this cr10 SE is not the best or the worst so it's pretty average then I will do a decorative print the robell Packer from prua to test the surface quality [Music] the print finished in 5 hours and 45 minutes the print quality looks all right let's take a look from all four different angles the surface is mostly clean with just a little ringing let's compare it to some new generation machines that use around the same time to finish this model for the Ender 3 V3 SE it took almost the same time but the surfice quality of the cr10 SE is much better when compared with the Anor mic m5c the surface of the cr10 SE is slightly better and the print speed is also faster when compar with the congro t500 which has a huge 500 mm Cube print volume the print speed is almost the same but the surface quality of the cr10 SE is much better finally when compare with the prua MK4 the MK4 has the best print quality but also the slowest print speed I will print another decorative model with Summer traction the voronoi [Music] [Music] cat [Music] [Music] the print finished in 6 hours and 5 minutes the patterns are mostly clean and the print quality is similar to the bamboo lab p1p and Chey xmart 3i however the slicer profile didn't hide the zcam too well and as you can see they're everywhere when I checked the model in the slicer the location of the zcam matches those on the model when I check the model in the prua slicer all the seams are hidden inside the pattern so you can't see them as the cheaty slicer and bamboo slicer based on the prua slicer I created a profile in Peru slicer that aligns with the speed and retraction settings of the extruder used in creality print without any any further adjustments I resliced the model and printed it again on the cr10 SE to see if I can get a better result the result was not only significantly faster taking around 4 and 1/2 hours instead of 6 hours but also looks better on the print surface without the Z seam now some viewers suggested that I should add an accuracy test as sometimes we want to print a model that has to fit with another part so I created some simple geometry and tested with 0.1 all the way to 0.25 and tried to put the cylinder and square inside the other object let's see how well these parts can fit [Music] together the cylinder is accurate and the cube is also fairly accurate but as these Corners are overshot like what you normally see on a calibration Cube it'll require some extra clearance let's start with a cube 0.25 is clear 0.225 is clear 0.2 is clear and 0.175 is also clear but 0.15 may be too tight if I forcibly push it in I'm sure it'll get stuck in there so for the cube the clearance is up to 0.17 5 I think the cylinder can get a better result it clears all the way from 0.25 0.225 0.2 0.175 0.15 0.125 and 0.1 it seems when printing a cylinder without the overshot corner the clearance can go as tight as 0.1 mm let's try some other materials I will print an ABS crate I will apply some glue on the bed to avoid warping the bottom is printed nicely there's zero stringing and the patterns stick to the bed very well as I put a thermometer next to the print bed the actual temperature of my garage is around 21° C so when the bed is heated up to 100° C we can expect the ambient temperature to go about 6° higher okay the corners didn't warp but as the ambient temperature still pretty cool you can see the ABS trying to warp but the bottom still stuck well to the glue so it caused the layer cracks here after the print is finished the temperature drops back to around 21° C the corner stuck well but it seems layer cracking as hard to avoid on an open frame printer the pattern was still printed very well let's compare it to the one I printed last week on the fully enclosed CHD xmart II the layers didn't crack that much just a tiny bit on the left but the stringing is a bit more than the one printed by the cr10 SE next I will print a PG pen holder since I just printed black ABS I will Purge more filament to clear out the black [Music] color [Music] when compared to pla PG sticks more to the nozzle but overall this print is really nice the service quality is awesome and I can't find any issues even when zooming in this close so it's a really good print then I will print a TPU wallet it to observe the Extrusion since this A1 TPU is super easy to print even a stock bden setup can handle it pretty well I will speed up to 75 m/ second on this Sprite [Music] [Music] extruder the Extrusion is perfect and even when printing TPU at a higher speed there are no undere Extrusion issues up next I will print a set of nose pliers with nylon carbon fiber as all my nylon filaments are stored inside the sunlow dryer which has a storage mode that will turn the heat on when the humidity is over 50% the current humidity inside the box is 34% I will just try to print it without any extra drying and see how it looks [Music] [Music] I think the result still looks pretty good the layers are clean and I can't see any problems with the print it's quite impressive to have to to do nothing but just apply glue to print nylon carbon fiber on this machine finally I will print a pla sheet to test the auto offset and the autoed leveling of this [Music] machine [Music] [Music] the whole looks very good and I can't see any imperfect spots it can be peeled off without any line separation so this is a perfect first layer okay let's talk about the pros and cons of this printer starting with the pros one the linear rail motion system works very well the x-axis is a pretty standard 12 mm rail while the y- axis is a super thick 24 mm rail that holds the the bed without any wobbling the y- AIS also uses a Nema 1748 mm high torque stepper motor to move the print bed rapidly without skipping steps the z-axis uses Palm Wheels but as it doesn't need rapid movement the dual lead screws with dual Z Seer Motors and a timing belt should work well enough two the Sprite extruder when I previously tried upgrading an Ender 3s1 Pro with Clipper firmware this extruder actually worked well the small heated block can't melt filament fast enough even with the strong force of the extruder pushing out filament the cr10 SE is equipped with a Sprite extruder with a 60 W ceramic heater which has a much higher flow rate of 32 m/ second like the K1 Series so it works perfectly with the Sprite extruder three the park cooling fan is a turbo blower it's not only more powerful than regular 4020 or 50/15 blowers but it's even more powerful than the turbo blowers on other latest generation Clipper machines it draws 7.2 Watts which is 2 to three times more powerful and the cooling is as good as or even better than a machine with an auxiliary fan four the bed leveling is fast it probes 49 points on the bed in just 1 minute and 10 seconds which is even faster than other printers probing 16 points the auto Z offset uses the CR touch as a probe to find the height of the bed it then finds the height difference from the nozzle by using another strain gauge on the print head this method makes a lot of sense and the auto Z offset value is very accurate I could print a perfect first layer on the first try five it comes with a bimetal copper Shield harden steel core nozzle like the K1 Max this is better than regular harden steel nozzles as not only can It print high temperature abrasive filaments like nylon carbon fiber or polycarbonate it can print low temperature filaments like pla pretty well I used the stock nozzle to complete all of my test prints and all of them were printed decently six the machine runs Clipper firmware and the screen UI is similar to the K1 and K1 Max but I found the firmware and Screen UI on the cr10 SE Works slightly better than those on the K1 Series without all those unnecessary AI features there are fewer errors and false alarms it doesn't need 5 to 7 minutes to calibrate before the print starts like the K1 or bamboo lab machines so it takes a more traditional approach but still delivers similar print quality seven create reality print is a fairly usable slicer its Network feature is Handy especially for me as I have a lot of creality machines connected to my network some of them use the older creality Wi-Fi box some use the Sonic pad and some new machines like the K1 series and the cr10s are connected to the same network you can just slice a model and select which printer you want to send the G-Code file to or directly start the print without touching City Cloud the network feature is one of the best even if the slicer isn't now for the cons one let's start with a slicer when using the default profile even with the same speed and acceleration it always prints slower than the prua slicer I think the main reason is it's using the cura engine but personally I think the prua slicer is just better one of the features I like most in the prua slicer is support painting as you can add just enough support to make the model printable but on Cura creality print or any other skin care slicer you have to drag around a box which gives you less control two it doesn't provide root access when I use SSH I tried the root username and cityor 2023 as the password which works on the rooted K1 series but didn't work on the cr10 SE I check with creality and they confirm that root AIS is not available for now three as the machine uses Clipper frameware it should also leave the moon rer API that lets you send prints over the network from almost any slicer for now if I want to use the pr slicer I have to copy the file to the USB drive or upload the G-Code using the web interface that looks like a simplified fluid which is not too bad but it would be much better to just done the job from the slicer four the screen UI is Pretty good overall except that the print time is not shown when the print finishes if I didn't film the entire thing I wouldn't be able to know the exact time that each print took for the web interface the simplified fluid face is the exact same as the K1 series but reality should get rid of the buttons that control the K1 fan and light as they don't really apply to this machine are all toggleable but all do nothing on the cr10 SE five as for the hardware I don't have complaints except that the LED light frame on top is quite fragile although it has a sticker warning against applying force and I've instinctively tried to put my arm on it a couple times while standing next to it and watching it print this light frame and sticker have been here since the Ender 3 S1 Pro but I think there are probably better ways to install an LED strip on a 3D printer other than keeping the same design with the same reminder sticker next when it comes to the Pei sheet it would be better to use a double-sided one once I could have the same textured pii surface for printing pla PG and TPU while the other side could feature a smooth surface similar to the K1 for filament that require glue in conclusion this printer is essentially a fully upgraded Ender 3 S1 Pro but it's selling at almost the same price if you were to try adding all these features on your existing Ender 3 S1 Pro it would probably cost you a few hundred and result in a Frankenstein looking machine for users used to the ender3 or Ender 3 S1 style machine and like the workflow and easy repair and maintenance getting the cr10 SE lets you stay in your comfort zone while still enjoying the latest generation of clipper firmware enabling Fast Printing and convenient Network features this makes it an excellent choice for existing quality users the machine is also beginner friendly overall it's the full package with solid Hardware that lets you print a broad range of materials with fairly good print quality and relatively fast print speed so this is a well-balanced machine with a reasonable price on my 3D printer price tracker if you're searching for a standard siiz printer with Clipper firmware linear rails and auto Z Offset you may find that only the cr10 SE and the Ender 3v3 ke meet all of these criteria if you're interested in the cr10 SE I included the link to it as well as to my 3D printer price tracker in the description that's it for this video if you found this video helpful please give it a like and consider subscribing to our Channel thank you for watching and I will see you next time

Channel: Aurora Tech

Views: 38,440

Keywords: CR10SE, CR-10 SE, CR10-SE, CR 10 SE, Creality CR 10 SE, Ender-3 S1 Pro upgrade, Ender-3 s1 pro klipper upgrade, ender-3 s1 pro high flow hotend, ender-3 s1 touchscreen upgrade, ender-3 s1 linear rails upgrade, ender-3 linear rails, ender-3 stepper motor upgrade, ender 3 sonic pad, ender 3 s1 sonic pad, sonic pad klipper firmware upgrade

Id: _WisLhEQg4w

Length: 28min 51sec (1731 seconds)

Published: Mon Oct 30 2023