Complete 1.8t 20V Engine Rebuild ~ Forged Internals and BIG TURBO

what's going on everybody it's charles in this video we're going to be rebuilding and upgrading a 1 8 turbo engine for this audi tt the 1 8 turbo that we are rebuilding today is an engine used in a ton of vws and audis from the mid-2000s the engine is out of a 180 audi tt with the engine code awp in addition to the rebuild we're also going to be making several upgrades along the way including forged rods and overboard forged pistons this engine was actually in the jetta the gti the beetle the passat the a4 the a3 and of course the tts and the rebuild process for these is pretty much the same no matter what i've also done a separate in-depth video on how to time this engine both on the chain side and on the belt side that i'll be sure to link up now since everything's been measured these caps are actually torqued down so we're gonna remove the caps we're gonna remove the bearings and then do a little bit better cleaning on the block odds are it's going to be fine but i just feel a little bit better doing an extra step cleaning we would have to take these caps off anyway to put the crankshaft in so we're really not doing any extra work so we'll go ahead and get the caps the bolts and the bearings out and we're gonna keep these all lined up in order since we've already made our measurements now for the third one we also need our thrust washer to be installed we'll make sure we get that set up too now overall our block is in pretty good shape but like all this old sealant and where the water pump goes and where the thermostat goes we want to get all that as cleaned out as we can now if we do it now we just take some compressed air and blow all this yuck out not have to worry about getting yuck in a place where we don't want any yuck our first order of business is going to be getting our piston squirters in now i actually have two sets here because well that's how many we have what these do is these mount in the block and actually squirt oil up underneath the piston now you'll notice there's holes all around here right there but in the other end the thing is threaded there's this little silver piece this is actually a ball and there's a spring inside the body here now i have one that's bad can actually see that ball just moving around in there when i poke it with a toothpick this is bad we don't want to put this one in what you do want to do is you want to check each one of these things and make sure that when you push the ball down it comes back to its seated position so this one here this one is good let me show you that bad one again this guy here you can see how it's recessed this is bad so the spring is bad or broken or something we definitely don't want to put this one in the way you want to clean these just spray some brake parts cleaner in the holes and then give that ball a push make sure there's no yuck stuck in it or that it's clogged or like carboned up it does need to move a little bit also in addition to cleaning out the inside you wanna make sure the threads are cleaned as well we will take this little guy be careful let me see it squirtling out of the bottom there and just flush it out you can also take the little red straw yeah that was more than i expected so if you just push down on that a little bit with the red straw you saw a little bit of junk come out of there now that we got our little squirty guys all cleaned up let's go ahead and install them fun fact these have an opening pressure of about 20 psi so if you want to officially test them that way you can do that once we get the piston installed we'll have to make sure that our clearance is good there as well and we're going to torque these to 27 newton meters we'll go ahead and get the rest of our jets installed these are basically just for piston cooling you do want to make sure that it's seated all the way and doesn't get all spun sideways on you i'm gonna go ahead and get them all started and then we'll come back and torque them now because we had one that was bad i got to use one bolt that's different not a big deal a thing so we'll go ahead and torque these again 27 newton meters they don't call for replacing these but if you're in any way like not sure about the integrity of those bolts go ahead and replace them and just to satisfy my ocd we're gonna mark these so we know that they're torqued next up it is time to clean our main journals even though this thing has been to the machine shop and all that look at how much dirt gets left behind we also sprayed the engine off with compressed air it's a good idea always always always to get these nice and clean not only the bearing surface but where the cap goes too is a good idea to wipe down and if you hadn't already done clean and blow out these holes for our main bolts on most volkswagen audi engines or one time use unless you're going like arp or something like that then you don't have to get new ones you can reuse those just to make sure we don't have any lint left over i'm going to blow those journals out we'll go ahead and drop our bearings back in next now because i've turned the block around you know what let's go ahead and turn the engine back around the other way so that we don't end up screwing it up all right now that we're uh back in action here with our goodies facing the proper direction as we took it off we can go ahead and keep on keeping on with our bearing installation oh i got a piece of fuzz i'm also cleaning these as we go mostly the back side of them where they go into the block these babies being clean and dry is important if you've ever heard someone say i spun a bearing what happens is either this bearing or a rod bearing will come unseated and it'll rotate independent from the crankshaft and cause a big old mess next up it's time to get our crankshaft ready to go in now this is the crankshaft out of the block that came with the car and the reason we used this one was the second block we used the bearing surface was destroyed so the crank was basically junk the third block the reason they replaced the engine which didn't need to actually be replaced which is why we got it but something dinged to the crankshaft and bent the wheel here for the engine speed sensor so all the measurements and everything were taken off the crankshaft that we got with the car the original crankshaft from the engine and all the machine shop did was polish the journals and make sure everything was good so really the only thing we need to do is just get this cleaned up clean our bearing surfaces and then put it in see even though we had it cleaned and everything still dirty this is why it may seem like i'm overkill on cleaning stuff but we're not making microchips as i often like to say but if we have the opportunity to clean something now it's gonna be easier to clean it now than it'll ever be again take the extra five minutes now and get it done then for cleaning the journals i just like to go like this clean clean clean wipey wipe wipey wipe and we'll blow all the dust and junk off of it right before we install it we'll go ahead and wipe our bearings down these should be fine but next up we'll get our installation paste and pre-lube these guys this will help on initial startup make sure these are nice and coated excellent we can go ahead and set our crankshaft in awkwardly balance this here there we go the engine stand kind of gets in the way back here but that's okay all right we are in business now we can go ahead and put our mains on i went ahead and took i not only cleaned where the bearing meets the cap but also right here where the cap is going to meet the block then put a little little lubey lube on there and by loopy lube i mean liqui-moly lm48 installation paste i'm actually going to do this one next main number three is the one that has the thrust washers in it that control how much movement back and forth the crankshaft has i actually got new ones this is a place where really if the crankshaft's not damaged in any way usually these are just fine on this particular engine but this is one of those things that it's not going to be easy to reinstall after the engines all together so i think there were like 30 bucks for new ones so i'm gonna go ahead and put some new ones in rather than using the old ones the old ones actually look okay there's a couple of spots you wouldn't say oh this engine has a problem based on this basically you know you'll have the correct main cap with the thrust bearing and then the bearing sits in the channel like that and pokes down through to the lower cap now for this cap it's all clean and everything not only i'm going to put some engine lubrication and installation paste here i'm going to put a little bit right here all that's really going to do for me is hold a thrust washer in place while we get it installed now it won't just fall out when i hold it up like this and i usually like to do this one either first or first and second so that you have a little bit of crankshaft movement just in case you need it that's all the way down in there so just like that nice and easy i'll just go ahead and do the rest of them exactly the same then we'll go ahead and torque those down i usually start the bolts by hand then what i'll do is i'll take a end of a rubber mallet and just give them a tap make sure the caps are seated all the way basically you just don't want to use the bolts to run them down if you do that you can get them kind of wonky and then you might not actually torque the bolts down properly now it is time to tighten our main cap bolts down first we're going to snug them then we're going to go ahead and start tightening them the torque spec for these is 65 neutron meters plus an additional 90 degrees i'm gonna tighten them to like 20 then i'll go up to 65 then we'll do our 90 degrees this just does it a little more evenly makes me feel a little bit better may not really be necessary these are also stretch bolts hence the plus 90. so make sure that you replace these every time or go with something like arp studs then you don't have to replace the hardware all the time moving the engine stand around that's one of the bad things about having these small ones you almost need to need a friend now before we go to our next step which is going to be our plus 90 i really like to spin the crankshaft and make sure it actually spins you should be able to do this by hand oh yeah oh that's real nice that's real i don't even need the socket on there that's real nice okay there we go now we can do our plus 90. now for the plus 90 you can do your angle wrench if you prefer to do it that way i like to just put a mark usually around 12 o'clock of the bolt whichever way you want because it doesn't really matter going back and double checking torque is easy if it's 65 newton meters you just go back and put the torque wrench on it and do another 65 newton meters so i put these marks on there and then what i'll do is i'll go ahead and do our 90. then at a quick glance we can go okay not only do we tighten them right they're torqued which is these marks they're also all lined up so if you missed one it clearly stands out all right let's see if i can do this without flubbling on the camera it's also pretty easy to eyeball 90 degrees quarter turn plus 90. so now they're all facing the same way we're good to go also after you do your quarter turn go ahead and give your crankshaft a little twisty there's probably a little bit more resistance than with it not fully torqued but as you can see i'm just rolling this around by hand by the time we get the pistons in we might not be able to do that well now it is time to do as you all know something that is my favorite thing and that's deal with our pistons and our piston rings so one of the main reasons we got this is when dude was putting it together he actually broke a piston ring so here are our upgraded pistons actually let me grab an old one so you can see the direct difference head to head here's the stock piston here's here's the modified one oh man it's not even close also how about these old-school ie uh piston rods huh so this is what came out of this might actually be one that did come out of the engine proper and then this is what we're putting into it quite a bit of a beefy boy over this thing they're also a half millimeter difference in diameter we're gonna have to make sure we do a couple of things one we need to check and set our ring end gap which means we're probably going to have to file our rings with these pistons we got this cool little piece of paper that tells us hey based on your application here's how you calculate ideal piston ring end gap so you take the measurement of the bore and the measurement of the bore that we have is 3.2086 inches or roughly 81.5 millimeters they list a couple of different applications that you can see we have high performance street and then we have street modified turbo or nitrous even though this is a high performance street and probably won't ever see the drag strip we are boosted which means we need a slightly bigger ring end gap so i built this little con construction here and what we're going to do is we are going to set our rings on it we have our oil control ring that goes at the bottom the other two rings two compression rings are not labeled so what i did was i just set the piston out i laid each ring in the piston to see how they fit and there is one that fits real nice in the top groove and the other one is too big so we know that the darker ring the one here goes in the middle and this one goes on the top so i like to put them that way on the little peggy hooks that i made we're gonna do that for all three of them and then what i'll do is i'll show you guys how i do this on one and i'll just put the rest of them in so you don't have to watch me do the same thing over and over again we don't want to have too high of cylinder pressure meaning our gap is too small we also don't want too big of a ring end gap now we're going to get too much blow-by and car burn oil so really we need to find the balance of the tube the factory ring gap spec is 0.2 to 0.4 millimeters with i think a max wear limit of 0.8 millimeters which is a huge ring in gap i'm probably going to set the ring gap about 0.4 millimeters that's the high end of new spec and that's sort of where i think anyway we should land with our upgrade pistons also just so you know these are measured at 81.5 millimeter pistons right that's how everything's labeled for these pistons also don't come at me because i know this is not the exact right way to measure this we should be using a micrometer is the word it's the second time today i forgot that we should be using a micrometer to properly measure this but what's worth noting is that when you measure one of these pistons they don't actually measure 81.5 millimeters so the number that they're giving you is not at least in this case could be different on other applications it's not the size of the piston it's the size of the bore the hole where the piston goes that number actually corresponds to so it may not be anything like you really need to worry about but i thought and found that interesting that they label it by bore size and it says it right here on the box not piston size which piston size seems to be how the internet labels it we have our piston we have our two rings that we need to measure our piston ring and gap on this is the ring that goes lower in the cylinder so we can start with that first thing i usually do though is i just make sure there's no like hard burrs or anything on it so that when we slide that ring down it doesn't score up or scratch up our cylinder wall these feel pretty good so we'll take our piston ring close it together a little lip it down like that let's actually do it the other way now unlike on most of the rest of these we've done like the vr6 is we can take the piston we can set it down and that'll sort of flatten out flatten out the piston ring so now we know it's nice and i guess centered leveled leveled might be the right word give it a couple taps now we know it's even now we will take our feeler gauge set look at that and we are looking for 0.406 is probably good we're gonna air just a little on the big side so i don't actually think we're gonna need to file that one at all we'll do our top ring now i'm not gonna push the top ring quite as far down in the cylinder as i did the middle compression ring and then we'll get we'll get our piston you can see how it's not lined up right here to line it up easy we just take our piston that'll pretty much guarantee you have it flat we're gonna do our same measurements start at point four okay so yeah i can't even get that one in so we're gonna have to file a pretty good amount out of this top ring which is not a big deal because we have left over from the blowed up jetta project a piston ring filer here we go with our ring gap or ring piston ring filer i think is the technical name what we need to do is we need to open this up when it lived in the piston it was like way crushed in we need to open that gap up the key to this though is one you don't want to take too much out because you can't put it back the other thing is you want to make sure that the ring and gaps are square is kind of the best way i can think of to describe it if instead of being straight it kind of favored going back to the back that would be a bad thing so we want to make sure we're filing it nice and straight and as long as with even with this kind of crummy tool that i have as long as you kind of hold it up against these two pins here it's usually pretty okay basically what i'm getting at is don't get the cheapest ring file you can then we'll go ahead and do the other side i like to take it evenly off of both sides i don't know if that really matters or if that's just a habit that i have before i'm back with the ring what i like to do is take a file and just kind of de-burr the edges you don't need to go crazy here just to make sure that it's not razor sharp we don't really file a ton out in fact i think we're probably going to have to go back a few more times you just want to make sure there's nothing super jagged we will wipe our piston ring off to make sure there's no yuckity on there then we take it we put it back in the bore and we take our measurement again okay back on our cylinder we got our ring in slide it into place take our piston i think we're going to take a good amount more out of this thing oh yeah we still got to take a bunch out so back to the file i went ahead and did some more filing let's see how our little friend looks now so you can see our gap there quite a bit bigger than it was before let's test it we're kind of chasing that 0.4 millimeters or 16 thousandths and we're pretty much right there let's always test the next one up too if the feeler gauge you use fits go up one and see what happens now we're going to take our ring out of our cylinder and the one thing that i generally do next is i'll take the piston ring and i'll just run this little file stone just around the edges to make sure there's no sharp burrs or anything do that all around mostly where we filed it that's a really quick and simple step we'll also go ahead and do it for the other compression ring as well i don't generally do it on the oil control rings because usually you don't need to there's good now what i'm also going to do because these kind of came to us pre-assembled i'm just going to take a look at my piston and connecting rod make sure i don't have any sharp edges on it everything looks good there is one of these rods that had a spot that was kind of boogered up what i'll do once i have the bearing out is i'll just take this same little file stone and i'll just file it down it's fine that's not gonna impact anything i just don't really like those jagged edges you can see this is probably from where it was stored in that crazy boxes and boxes and boxes of parts next we are going to pour some hot water and get some soapy water out of our hot water so that we can clean our piston rings now you want to make sure that you're doing this kind of quick if you leave these piston rings wet they'll actually rust this is all of them including the oil control ring we'll just rinse them around oil or grease get them all off of there learn this trick from a hot rod engine builder get them all clean then we'll go ahead and rinse them and then use some compressed air to make sure that they're completely dry once our piston rings are clean it's time to get our piston dialed in for installation so we are going to undo our cap now these caps were torqued in order to measure our bearing clearance so we might need to give these a little taparooski so they come apart now we can take our cap off so these are new bearings that we got i went ahead and got some performance bearings because this is generally a weak spot on four cylinders and we're not trying to have any any additional weak spots we'll take our bearing out we gotta clean that mating surface now i actually don't think i've shown this before a little trick you can use is a coffee filter to clean these they're lint free they're super cheap and they work really really well look at how much dirt was left behind this is why it's important to clean stuff got some acetone here we're gonna clean it with this now now because these have sat out for a while i'm gonna just give them a quick wipe down they should be okay swipe the back of our bearing quick this stuff stinks we'll go ahead and get our bearing installed we'll clean our cap same thing on the cap side clean our cap install our bearing properly and then these rods are numbered you see the number right there when you install them you got to make sure your numbers line up we're not going to put that on just yet though next up we gotta get our piston rings on now this is an area where i have myself made mistakes and broke piston rings i've also seen other people do it too in fact that's kind of how we got here so i'm always like mega careful we also want to make sure on our bottom ring which is our oil control ring that we don't put any of the gaps over any of the oil holes it's probably not really a problem since we have three gaps on that one ring we also want to make sure we offset the opening of our other two pieces of our oil control ring so that accordion looking one goes first then it doesn't matter whether you do the top one or the bottom one next i usually do the bottom one then the top one then we are going to put our second compression ring on now in the weisko instructions it talks about that tiny little shoulder on the edge facing down this one sometimes these are labeled and it'll say top on the piece that faces up or on the top ring this one doesn't but it does say n50 so we're gonna put that facing up we'll get our pliers carefully carefully carefully carefully thread those open and put that ring in and we'll do the same thing for a top guy now where you put these on initially does not matter it's where you have them clocked or oriented before you put it in the cylinder that that's really all that matters so it doesn't matter where we put these these are easy to move around so we want these all about 120 degrees off so we'll put that one there we'll do this one over here and as you can see this piston has a little recess in it for our intake valve i usually try and not put the ring gaps there once we have our piston ready to go and we make sure our ring end gaps are appropriately clocked we got to get our tool on now this isn't my favorite tool for compressing our piston rings but i generally what i do is i'll take one of these coffee filters i'll wipe it out there's just mostly oil in it so not a big deal but i will then oil it pretty much anything we can do to make this piston slide down in the cylinder easier usually worth doing i usually try to get this gap in this tool this where the flap is away from the opening of the piston rings too i do like to also make sure that there's no weird gaps here we'll probably have to crunch this down a little bit more but you also don't need to go to town on it then it makes a pain in the butt to drive the piston so this is what we have this is what it's going to look like before it goes in the cylinder this is pretty much the last time you're ever going to see this beautiful connecting rod unless it decides to yeet itself out of the block and we'll see it again soon now we did that basic cleaning of our cylinder bore when we took our piston ring measurements i also went ahead and put two three and four pistons in because it was late at night and sometimes i like to do these kind of things just for the pure enjoyment of doing them but we need to get this cylinder clean so we can get our piston installed then what i usually do is take our little squirt squirt guy and then squirt some oil in just lube that cylinder up and get a little in the palm of your hand if that makes you happy then what i usually do is i'll grab the filter again just make sure we're clean we'll grab our piston now remember we got that little notchy guy that has to face the intake side which is this way and make sure that is lined up then we'll just take the butt side i guess probably more accurately the handle side of this hammer and just give this piston a tap down until it settles into place run our crankshaft down all the way so our piston doesn't hit our crankshaft they also make specialty hammers for this kind of thing but i don't do this enough to buy a specialty hammer now if you're tapping it down and you start to hear a difference in tone of where you're tapping you might want to stop what can happen is the piston ring can actually get out from where the compressor is so this piston ring was actually hitting the block surface so we need to reset and do it again you really got to be paying attention here so that something like that doesn't happen because that is how piston rings get broken and once you have the piston rings past the edge of the block you can give it a final tap once you have that piston somewhat down in the bore we need to flip this baby over and out of paranoia i usually keep my hand over the piston but honestly the odds of it actually just coming out pretty low so you probably don't need to do that now with our raw journal all the way up this way but basically at the bottom of its travel a little bit more room to mess around with our connecting rod here get it set so that it doesn't whack our journal i'm gonna get this pretty close up let's get a little bit of our engine lube i'll just usually hold the connecting rod tap it up now you can see our rod is up at the top here is our bearing cap and we will do a better job of putting the lube on here we also want to make sure our number on the cap corresponds to the proper side of the rod start our bolts by hand and then i just snug them up we'll have to come back and torque everybody you can run them in by hand you just don't really want to use the bolt to pull the rod cap together so what i'll do is i'll just get them a little snug take that same old handle hammer hammer handle handle i've been using just give it a little tap and that my friends should properly seat it once you have your cap just a little bit snug down give your engine a twist twisty twist make sure that you don't really feel any resistance there'll be a little bit of drag from the piston rings pushing up against the cylinders but it should turn pretty easily if it doesn't turn pretty easily with just a basic size ratchet then you really need to go back and double check and make sure maybe you put a cap on upside down or something else is not happy next up we got to deal with our connecting rod bolts and there's two main ways that people will properly torque these connecting rod bolts one is going to be just hit a strike torque value in this case ie who put the kit together for the rods and the caps and the bolts says 50 pound-feet of torque so easy torque it to 50. they actually recommend loosening it and then torquing it again and then loosening it and torquing it again three times three total torques to get everybody properly seated so that's one way the other way is to use something called the stretch gauge as you tighten the bolt the bolt actually stretches that's why we have certain bolts that need to be replaced from time to time or one time use bolts probably more accurate way to say that with these arp bolts you don't need to replace them when they stretch they're meant to be reused multiple times that's one of the advantages right so here is what a stretch gauge looks like and here is our bolt what we do is with it in the engine right we take our gauge and we put the bolt in between these two points this measurement here is the overall length of the bolt as it sits not really the total length because as you can see right here there's a little bit of recess and a little bit of recess which is why this bolt holds in place no problem and what we would do is we would tighten this bolt until our bolt was a bit longer so in this case they're looking for six thousandths which in my experience it comes real close to what the recommended torque value is now let's go ahead and get these bad boys properly torqued couple of things before we get started one we need to get some of that sweet sweet lube on our threads and the heads of the bolts you don't need to go crazy with it but it does need to be properly lubricated ie has some really good instructions on torqueing these and installing these you want to make sure you use a good torque wrench and it hasn't been dropped and all that stuff they say 50 pound feet is what you would torque it to or 6 thousandths of stretch you know when companies take the time to put instructions on stuff like that i find that oftentimes there's a reason we're just gonna we're just gonna follow the structions plus the guys at ie are really really awesome so that's about five so i think we're going to be good there i think torquing these to 50 no problem at all after i torque each one down i'm going to rotate the engine round just to make sure we didn't do something wild and now have something hung up i know some people hate paint marks i like them moving right along it's time to keep going on the bottom end we need to get our oil pump put on next these are the three bolts that go into the three bolt holes an old school way of priming the oil pump would be to pack it full of vaseline and then that's what you used on first startup to make sure that you didn't cavitate the oil and get air and stuff in there i'm not gonna do that but what i am gonna do put a little little our engine assembly paste on it then i'm just gonna rotate that around try and get everybody nice and coated that way we at least have some lubrication on that first startup we'll get our new oil pump chain remember this is a part that we didn't actually have in our we have everything set up and we're just gonna hook it on the crankshaft and then set our oil pump in place then we'll take our oil return and windage tray set that right on top then go ahead and put our bolts in zip these down then these babies get torqued to 15 newton meters which is not very tight we should probably go ahead and put our oil pump chain tensioner on here as well and then i'm not going to put the oil pan on next i'm going to leave that for like way down the road the main reason is i want to get the front crank seal and the rear main seal installed first if you do it this way you can just plop those covers right on and it's no big deal if you have the pan on when you do that you have to kind of rock the covers on and it's just easier to do it this way might be a little bit of a pain in the butt to get the pan on with the engine on the stand but we're gonna take the engine off the stand anyway to get the rear main seal on so that's a problem we'll worry about later so this tensioner is just a little spring tensioner this pin right here has to go up against the block and that like loads the spring tension and i just hold the spring and then that's really all the tension that the oil pump chain needs that bolt is also 15 newton meters so we're already ready all ready to go so we need to get our front crank seal on because this is what's going to end up helping us get our crankshaft time so we can get our camshafts time this sits on just like that now we have to make a choice with our seal do we want to put it on our cover first or do we want to put our cover on and then try and moosh the seal on personally i like to put the seal in the cover first and then install the cover you can do these by hand or you can take a little seal installer and tap them in or even a hammer big thing is you wanna make sure you install it evenly next up we gotta put a bead of silicone around the backside don't worry about the bottom right now we'll do that when we do the oil pan you can see where our cover was the difference in texture between here and here so that's kind of what we need to keep in mind you don't need a ton remember this like squashes out now if we just go slamming our cover on blah we're going to end up destroying the seal right here i have this little plastic cup from a seal from something else i don't even remember what it's for i think i think a bpy from the jetta we blowed up so i'm just gonna put it in there and what we're gonna try and do is just gently stretch that seal out carefully this zoom it right on like that then we can just go ahead and get them started and our torque spec for these babies 15 newton meters next up we have to put our timing gear on that just sits on there like that i'm going to install the old bolt i have a new bolt which this is a one time use bolt if you can imagine i just don't have the tool yet it's lost in the mail now this is actually another spot where it's probably not a bad idea to upgrade from this cast gear to a billet gear that's a bit stronger you can also get them with six holes instead of four but i think for our application this is going to be just fine let's go ahead and get our block surface ready to put our head gasket on now this is also the last time hopefully anyway we're gonna see our open cylinders so make sure there's no dirt or anything in them and if they're looking dry go ahead and give them a wipe out wipe out and wipe down make sure we don't have any yuck left in there then we'll go ahead and clean our gasket surface we do want this surface to be clean and dry now we can go ahead and put our head gasket on this is still got the plastic on it but we'll take that off in just a second this is how the head gasket fits on there you need to make sure that you have not only your head bolts lined up but all the passages and galleys lined up as well since we overboard our cylinders we need to pay attention to the bore of the head gasket now luckily for us we only did half a millimeter so this won't be an issue for us so if i set this on here you can see we don't have any issues it's barely opened up bigger than it was from the factory with with just half millimeter overboard now for our cylinder head look at that fresh freshy surface use that same cleaning method that we did for the block then we can carefully set this on now there are alignment dowels here and here luckily this one's not super heavy also i have the cams out still that's going to make it a little easier to put this together i think all right that was much less satisfying than i even had like many vw audi engines the head bolts are one-time use and these are kind of unique you notice that it's threaded down here at the bottom but it's also threaded with a little bit bigger thread up here at the top so this threads into the cylinder head and then this part here threads into the block so we'll go ahead and drop those babies down in now we'll go ahead and get the rest of these guys in here you want to pay attention to the repair manual some manufacturers say you need to lubricate these bolts some say clean and dry some don't say anything typically if it doesn't say anything it's clean and dry i normally i do like to clean these just soapy water dry them off and that usually gets it done these are that drive that so many vw audi head ga head bolts are we'll go ahead and just get these snugged i'm only snugging these down the equivalent of roughly hand tight let's go ahead and get this thing torqued down we are going to start at 40 newton meters then we're gonna do a quarter turn and then another quarter turn to equal a half a turn and remember these kind of bolts usually have a sequence to them usually starting in the middle and working your way out we're going to start with our quarter turn we're also going to get a bigger ratchet so that it's a little easier to quarter turn now we got to go back and do that exact same thing pretty much in that exact same order i usually try and go parallel to something to start my 90 so that i'm perpendicular to it when i finish you could also use the torque angle wrench okay we are good next up we gotta load up all of our lifters into our cylinder head which are these guys here we're just gonna give them a little bit of cleanup then take some of our assembly grease a little boop on the bottom a little boop on the top i like to always put these back where they came from if i'm not replacing them that way any slightly weird pattern of wear or anything like that you'll at least have the same kind of thing in the same cylinder it won't cause more damage probably honestly completely unnecessary but it's another one of those habits that i'm just in and our last intake one yay and pretty much same thing for the exhaust now the way these work look if you look you see there's a tiny little hole right there oil comes in this is this hole right here corresponds with that hole right there in the head you can see there's like a channel right through here and that's what supplies oil to these guys final one and then we'll just dab a little dab this is going to lubricate the camshaft mostly on that first startup before we get all the oil up to the top end these are like alignment dowels i guess is the best way to describe it for our cam caps and our cam chain tensioner these go kind of like that i wonder what an easy way to install these would be let's give these guys just a nice and fresh make sure our sealed surfaces are nice and clean i've already lubricated everybody now let's get our cams set in i already got the chain on the cam since we already did all the timing i was able to mark our new chain so this should go pretty easily that's mostly lined up try and get the cams as close to tdc cylinder one as possible which means that these lobes here for cylinder one both point inward now before we get too carried away with our cam adjuster we need to get some new feet put on it these aren't too bad i've definitely seen worse but look at how dark they are and we definitely don't want to put this back together on a freshly built engine so we'll go ahead and get this apart then these just pop off and the new ones are usually a little harder to get on so that kind of goes in like that so there we go there's our top one put that back on and we'll do the same thing on our bottom one nice and on there now that we got our new feed in the next thing we need to do is we need to crest this tensioner in order to get our tool installed so that it'll hold it all together a number of different ways to do this what i'm going to do is i'm going to take a couple zip ties it's not super hard to compress that spring so if you had someone to like hold it for you or you could even put it in a vise that would be ideal now you don't need to compress it all the way you only need it enough to get the tool started once you can get the tool started i actually think that's enough get off there get that out of the way slowly compress this next up we need to get our cam adjuster gasket which is actually two gaskets the little half mooney guy and the metal guy now here on the back side of our cylinder head is where our cam adjuster goes this is our coolant flange we have our little half moonie guy and i like to put a little bit not a lot of it a little bit of silicone just enough to fill the gaps kind of like that gets set right down in there it'll squash down when uh when we tighten our cam adjuster so if we get our chain tensioner in here we might have to pull this up so our chain tensioner kind of lives in here like that with our tensioner on now we got to put our cam caps in i'm going to make sure our seals are tucked where they need to be now i'm probably going to replace these seals the problem is holding the camshaft to get the gear off is usually pretty tricky so we'll get everything mounted up then i think i'll pop the gear off and replace the seal i will go ahead and clean off the caps that we're putting on where i don't need it lubricated i already put some lubricant on there man that stuff i like how that stuff went on that was nice then we'll go ahead and just drop our caps on five four three two and then the back one same thing for the other one now these are something that you do wanna make sure you torque down properly as well as follow the sequence so that you are evenly tightening these all down the other critical step before you tighten all this stuff down for the camshafts you need to make sure you roll the crankshaft back a couple of teeth you don't need to go crazy with it like half revolution or anything like that but you do want to back it up a little bit since this is an interference engine if your cams aren't timed properly and you tighten them down it'll push open one of the valves and can actually bend a valve or doink a piston or something like that so we don't want to do that we just want to back the crankshaft back just a little bit mine's i don't know two teeth back so we're good there now i'm going to start all the bolts and run them in just a little bit what i'm not going to do is send them home and tighten them down there's a certain order that we want to make sure we follow now these caps are labeled five four three two this one's not labeled and five four three two this one's not labeled we're going to start by tightening two and four first and we're going to tighten two a little tight and four a little tight and two a little tight and four a little tight into a little tight and four a little you can see as i tighten this down it'll slowly move the camshaft into place what it's actually doing is pushing probably cylinder three valve open for the intake we'll go ahead and do the same thing for the exhaust cam and usually for the final little bit i'll just go by hand so i can have a little bit better feel on it sometimes that feel is lost with the uh little impact gun there now we're gonna torque those guys down to 10 newton meters i'm just going to check this other one on four as well i got them pretty close with just the hand tool there i'll probably at the end of this go back and just double check them all the next ones we need to tighten down are the two at the back where the chain is we'll go ahead and snug those guys down torque those to 10 newton meters as well after torquing these down that'll allow us to check our timing on the top side of the engine and make sure that we're all timed up now we're pretty close to the timing marks here on the back side of the chain now what i can do is i can finish tightening down the rest of our cam caps that aren't tight except this one at the front i'm going to leave this one loose because we're going to take it off when we put our cam seals on we'll go ahead and torque these all down all these are 10 newtons let me know in the comments what do you guys prefer the buzz of the torque wrench or do you like that satisfying click i don't know i like them both they're both satisfying for me all right that's pretty good i'm i'm pleased i am pleased with that okay before we get crazy with our timing belt let's go ahead and get these cam seals done i'm gonna do the intake cam first then all this stuff should just come right out nice and easy this little ring here is for the ham sensor you can see it only goes on one way now you remember i said i wasn't going to tighten that last cam cap which is this one here the reason this is going to make doing this job a million times easier in fact just go ahead and take it all the way out i mean honestly the seal probably was fine but since we have a new one we'll go ahead and slide it on now if you've never replaced a cam seal something you can do to open this up a little bit is take a socket and just kind of stretch it carefully see it kind of spread the seal a little bit there now this one was super easy because we had the cap off so you really didn't even need to do that but that makes it easier we'll go ahead and put our ring back in because you can put a little blue thread locker on our bolt and i don't think that's going to be enough to rotate our engine around at all 25 newton meters next up we got to do the cam gear which generally is a little trickier than doing this one you can zip this off with an impact in most cases if you don't have an impact that'll knock that off you're going to have to hold the gear and break the bolt loose using a cam bar like this odds are this bolt is probably a one-time use guy we'll go ahead and pop that off clean this out same thing we did for the other one we'll slide this little guy on here we can actually put that guy on go ahead and snug this cap down and since we're here let's go ahead and torque that back to 10 newton meters go ahead and get our gear put back on now i have heard tail of people putting these on backwards maybe it's not this engine because that didn't really fit make sure that you put the gear back on the right way otherwise you're gonna have a bad time just like we did for the intake cam i'm gonna put a little thread locker on this guy now in the repair manual it actually doesn't call for that to be uh replaced now it may call for it somewhere else in the repair manual but not in the like breakout so we're going to torque this thing to 65 newton meters and call it good before we get too carried away with our timing we got to get our water pump on because our water pump on this engine is driven by our timing belt and we already cleaned the orifice for our water pump before i put this pump in i always like to use a little bit of dielectric and lubricate the seal we'll go ahead and lubricate this well here as well we'll go ahead and slide our pump in just like that three ten millimeters now they do make a metal impeller water pump for these older engines the one eights and the two liter non-turbos i found that the oe ones especially like the newer revisions work pretty well and don't have that super come apart problem that they used to you know 15 years ago and we will torque these to 15 newton meters okay now we can move on to our timing belt which is pretty straightforward we have a hydraulic tensioner that goes right here next we have to put our roller on now this roller should have a washer on the back side of it mine didn't but somehow miraculously in my pile of nonsensical things i found one that i think is actually from 1 8 turbo tensioner go ahead and get this guy on go ahead and just snug that down a little bit we don't want to tighten it just yet before we get too carried away we need to slide down to our crankshaft we need to tighten this bolt down we never tighten this we just kind of set it in place for our bolt replacement here we actually need to hold this gear this is a big boy torque spec of 90 newton meters plus an additional 90 degrees and for that we need this guy this long john silver's guy right here what this does is this bolts to our gear so that we can counter hold it we'll go ahead and get that mounted up you could probably do this since we're really only replacing the bolt you probably do this with the belt on counter hold get our old bolt off all right 10 minutes of looking i found found our new bolt here this might have been a new bolt when we got this project but i'm on a better safe than sorry with this kind of thing this bolt comes loose we're gonna have a bad day this should be this should be a satisfying click that wasn't nearly as satisfying as i was hoping for then we can mark right at 12 and we'll do our 90 degrees 90. even the camera felt that now we can go ahead and get our tool off of here and keep on going while we're down here go ahead and slide our crankshaft to tdc well now we can keep grooving on our timing belt we'll pull this roller off which makes it easier drop our valve cover on to make sure our cam's at tdc or one tooth off on the top there we go pop our belt on all right there is our belt we'll go ahead and torque our roller down and then we'll pull our pin rotate our engine around twice on the crankshaft side to do one full revolution of the camshaft lined up lined up go ahead and tighten down our roller to 25 newton meters and boy oh boy we are on our way now that our belt's on we can start to put our covers on that's always a good day i also got to find the one the cover that goes above it because i have no idea where it is what's fun is because i had to get that other block i actually have two of the cover that goes right above it one of them is real boogered up the other one's a little better so i think we're gonna i think we're gonna use that one because of the way our engine is mounted on the engine stand we're not gonna be able to do the rear main seal or the clutch or anything like that with the engine on the stand so what i have is this really awesome euro-wise mount that mounts right here to the engine instead of the engine being the way it is now this will go in the tube so our engine will basically be 90 degrees different ta-da now the probably what's going to be the worst part of this whole job is we got to take this off of that side and put it on this side now that we have our engine mounted up so we can access the back of it we're going to start by cleaning this surface so we can get our rear main seal on this rear main seal actually has the gasket kind of attached to it already so we don't really have to worry about that we do have to be careful of the seal itself make sure that goes on the crankshaft properly it's important to note the way this seal goes on the lip actually has to go backwards so it's a little weird you got to be extra careful you can take this guy off six bolts 15 newton meters a piece no sealant needed because it had that little rubber gasket on it and we'll go ahead and mark these now we can go ahead and put our clutch on this is a stage three clutch with a light flywheel the flyway away is about 19 pounds and our holes are offset so you got to make sure you line them up properly the factory flywheel has timing marks on it i'm pretty sure this has a dual mask from the factory luckily our kit came with all new hardware and everything too because i don't think we had any of it go ahead and get all of our flywheel bolts started we'll get this torqued down and then after i get it all torqued down i'll go ahead and clean this flywheel surface also flywheel bolts as you may have guessed are one time use and they come pre-micro encapsulated which just means it has thread locker on it now we'll go ahead and resurrect our bent valve here so that we can hold our flywheel from turning so we're gonna torque this in three stages we're gonna go 30 which i kind of already hit on some of them apparently then we're going to go up to 60 newton meters now we have to do an additional 90. so we'll go ahead and make our marks at 12 o'clock going back and checking the torque is easy seeing if you did it a quarter turn is not easy you guys already know what i did um shouldn't have forgotten i forgot the cover so this is a shield that actually supposed to go behind the flywheel i looked at it and i was like i need to put this on then i put the rear main on i was like i need to put this on well crisis and conundrum averted i actually had another set of flywheel bolts it took some digging but uh i got six brand new bolts now that's not to say that if you had ran into this same issue you need to actually take the flywheel off but i think if i were to use this shield i would probably cut it right about here there's a bolt that goes here and a bolt that goes here and that would hold this in place for our case i'm take the flywheel back off and do it again you better believe that i'm grumping myself this whole damn time the other option would be to take the bolts out and re-lock tight them odds are that probably would be okay too but uh you know is it is it worth it i don't know probably not probably worth just taking them back off and doing it right i don't even really remember why i have an extra set of these i know i had a set for a while and this might actually be left over from the jetta series now the internet will know i did it the right way so you guys have already seen this let's skip to putting the clutch on now that that unpleasantness is behind us let's go ahead and clean our flywheel we know look how dirty that is that's mostly the oil they put on there so that it doesn't rest but that's pretty clean let's go ahead and get our clutch on now it's important to pay attention to which way the friction disc goes for our clutch in our case this hub piece right here where the springs are goes towards the engine like that we'll get our alignment tool to hold it in place that holds just like that just like we did to our flywheel we're going to clean our pressure plate same thing coat it in an oil so that doesn't rust we have three dowels to line up so that aligns just just like that and then we'll go ahead and start our bolts think of tightening flywheel bolts like torquing a wheel down you want to go in that star pattern and these you want to tighten down a little bit of it at a time so you're kind of walking the pressure plate on i think i just called them flywheel bolts i meant bolts for our pressure plate that go into the flywheel that's what annette said while you're snugging your pressure plate down make sure that your clutch alignment tool is perfectly centered it should be pretty well centered just by using the tool if there's any question hold it center then we're going to torque these babies to 20 newton meters i'm going to start by torquing everybody to 10 then we'll go back around and do our 20. probably overkill to be honest all right there's our 10 and we'll go back around to 20. and we are done next up let's get back to the top side and get our cylinder head cover also known as valve cover on now for some reason they took the studs out of the cylinder head you'll notice we have two different sizes with two different lengths of unthreaded bits the longer ones go in the middle where the ignition coils go the shorter ones mostly go across the front this is the front of our engine one in the back at the middle you're looking at the back side right here this is where our exhaust manifold bolt on but there's also an unequal i guess number of the longer ones so our longer ones go across the middle where our spark plugs go at the back side on the exhaust side the two extra longer ones that we have and i think that leaves enough thread sticking up for say accessories to bolt on and stuff like that and we can just snug these down hand tight we don't need to go crazy with these things go ahead and get our spark plug well gasket on then for our valve cover gasket itself there's a couple of spots where we want to use a little rtv in the corners where the gasket changes direction like where the cam variator is and then our front cam caps then what i always like to do with the little half moon shape here put a bit of sealant in that you don't need a lot put your gasket on you want to make sure the gasket's all the way seated next we got to put our little guards on here over our intake cam we'll go ahead and put some sealant in the corners of the gasket go ahead and set our valve cover on like that and go find some nuts like many of our fasteners in this capacity the torque spec for these is 10 neutron meters been a while since i put a torque wrench on a valve cover for a 1 8 turbo next we're going gonna flip this engine over work on the bottom side now we can close up our bottom end we also need to put our pickup tube on always make sure you put that seal on there not a bad idea to lubricate both the pickup and the seal now we've already pretty much got our block cleaned up we got our pan cleaned up we need to get our sealant on our pan we'll go ahead and watch down here at the bottom this is so much easier when it's not in the car and we'll get a couple screws started and if you're still keeping track of torque specs 15 newton meters for your oil pan like so many other fasteners i like to work around so that you don't just do like all one side and run the risk of something getting not right uh probably pretty low risk for this one but moving on let's work on the front side of our engine now my next step was actually going to be to put this cross pipe that goes well across here unfortunately i don't have an o-ring for that the oil cooler uh i i couldn't find an oil cooler the oil cooler mounts right here to this piece not a huge deal we'll make sure we get this guy installed this only goes one way fits on the back side of our oil filter housing here i don't know that i've ever actually replaced one of these on a 1 8. now unfortunately we're not going to be able to put our pcv stuff on until i get this coolant pipe in otherwise that's going to be a nightmare now initially i did have a new thermostat housing to install but i did decide to upgrade to the metal ones from eurowise so i bought the whole kit anytime you take one of these thermostats out on a high mile car it's better to just go ahead and put a new one on then don't have to worry about it i went ahead and opened up that bag of parts that i assume anyway were the turbo kit what i'm seeing here feels almost exactly like what the mark 3 vr6 turbo setup felt like what i'm going to do first is install some studs in our manifold this is where our turbocharger is going to bolt to here we have our two nut method and that's what we're going to use to install the stud also important to pay attention to you can see the lengths are different this is shorter this is longer the shorter threads go into the manifold do that for all four of these and just so we have a couple of things less to be responsible for go ahead and put our gasket and the nuts that are gonna go on here not sure where these go yet but i should hopefully have enough anyway nuts to replace all the exhaust manifold nuts and i uh have a gasket now what i thought would be fun was to test fit the original turbocharger this one onto the engine to show you what it looks like bitty teeny weeny exhaust manifold and the bolts that i scrounged together to make this fit go ahead and put our gasket on so i don't forget that here's our manifold we'll get our turbocharger test fit in just a minute also from the factory this car has these washers on the studs so i clean these up miraculously i found all of them what i am going to do is tighten this down in a second here right here this this is why mechanics have good dexterity in their hands and why their hands hurt all the time well that was fun i guess now there's nothing to do but to take these nuts off and put on our turbocharger ta-da now i'm instantly wondering is this where our oil drain is actually gonna be or are we gonna have to clock this differently not really sure but what i am really sure of is we're just gonna go ahead and loosely bolt in this turbo on i think we're just gonna have to leave it like this for now okay i'm leaving you with the engine mounted up and installed in the car i still have a ton more work to do figuring out charge cooler piping and all the hose routing this is the problem you run into when you buy a car that's been completely taken apart and sat for three years more on that when we're deeper into this 1 8 turbo tt project questions or comments as always drop them down below i will put links to everything we use down in the description with that i'm out have an awesome day and i'll talk to you again next time

Channel: HumbleMechanic

Views: 1,388,075

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Id: hx_sdPOXAcg

Length: 58min 35sec (3515 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 09 2022