216,000 Mile R32 Engine Teardown and Inspection

this is a vr6 engine in this video we're going to be doing a full teardown on this vr6 but before we do that we need to get it up on the engine stand i have this really cool special vr6 engine stand mounty dealey that we need to put on it but because of the condition of this engine with all the rust on it i actually need to start by tapping the holes that the mount mounts up to if we were to mount this to the engine stand in a normal standard way we wouldn't have access to any of the timing chains or the backside engine stuff let's get a tap and clean up these threads we're not actually cutting new threads we're more cleaning up and restoring the threads but we'll need something a little more aggressive than just a standard thread chaser this is a 10 by 1.5 tap we'll spray a little lubricant and go very slow cleaning up these threads so before we get the engine off of this platform and hook that mount so we can put it on the stand we have to remove the bevel box bevel box is four bolts and then a number six allen way deep inside of here holding it the flange on after we remove that and lose a bunch of fluid we can go ahead and put our mount on to mount it on the engine stand well we have the engine and transmission up on our stand this is kind of a small engine stand so i actually have the engine hoist holding up the transmission side we're going to take the transmission off so that'll work out really well this is a heavy transmission and i don't really want to have to lift it by myself so uh double win for having it supported with the stand and the hoist also if you've never seen the cardboard trick for keeping your bolts organized we're going to do that to keep all of our bell housing bolts in the right order we'll draw a circle and then poke them through let's start with the starter that is not the right nut on there there are very few fasteners on a vw or an audi that are a 12 millimeter so this is not the right nut by the way i recently discovered these gearwrench extension with a wobble and a socket at the end of it these things are fantastic not a must-have tool but boy are they nice take our starter off i'm gonna keep the bolts to the starter with the starter so that's just two less that we have to keep track of also on some cars especially the more modern ones and dsg cars there's a bolt hidden back behind the starter here so if you're doing a transmission on one of those cars uh definitely want to make sure you take starter out and look for a bolt back in here this car doesn't have one so we're uh we're in good shape there next we'll just go around and get all our bolts out of the way so what i do for the cardboard to keep our bolts organized is i just take a scrap piece of cardboard i draw a circle and then i write top on it and then as i take the bolts out i poke them in their related orientation so the bolts at the bottom go through the bottom the bolts at the sides go inside and then the top ones go in the top and i poke them through the same direction they go into the transmission some are gonna get poked through front to back some are gonna come through the back side and get poked through that way this is awesome to stay organized so we'll start with this one down here that's gonna kind of go right there that one will set the stage for all the rest of them and then this big gap is where our starter went forgot this one's not even tight so now that one went from the pan to the transmission so i'm going to poke this one through this way and it'll live in our cardboard like that now before you take that last bolt out you better make sure you got your transmission supported normally they don't just come crashing down but you don't want to take any chances this is another bolt that's going to get poked through the backside next let's separate our engine and transmission got this pretty well secured this is always sketchy business oh i missed a bolt check it out right here i missed one that's why you never want to go cranking on it with a big old pry bar in case you accidentally did miss a bolt it does happen that's loose enough to oh yeah there we go see it pop away all right i think that did it we can leave the bolt there and let's pull our transmission away from our engineering yay make sure we don't have any rogue stragglers and we're going to set this transmission down on the rollie platform that way it's out of the way and we can move it if we need to well let's go ahead and start to take some of this apart what i'm going to do before we start is i'm going to lubricate some of these fasteners with some rust penetrant goodness uh that will hopefully help us have an easier time when we go to take some of this stuff out the less broken bolts the happier of a camper i am going to be all right let's start off with some of this coolant and wiring and vacuum hosing that uh that we got all going on over here any opportunity i can take to put a fastener back where it came from i like to take said opportunity just one less thing to keep track of i got my drip tray down below because i know we still got a bit of coolant and a bit of oil left in here two are those the same length look like the same length to me and we got a couple of things still connected to here so i'm gonna try and support this guy as best i can i guess she's not really going far oh disconnect that we're actually going to kind of let that hang down a bit let some oil drain out of it while that drips down let's handle some of this stuff on the back side of our engine and we got a whole bunch of wires that are going to be coming off of here pretty soon get our coolant flange off [Music] so much stuff disconnect our coolant temp sensor here there we go oh that one's definitely not going back in oh look it's got sealant on it these don't need sealant on it unless the cylinder head is messed up all right let's take the crack pipe out i remember on the white car i had to like break this thing out to get it out it was in there really good she broke coming out only a matter of time before that got sad let's deal with some of this stuff up here we have all kinds of goodies going on with our coil harness and anything i can leave attached to a bracket i'm going to leave attached to a bracket something i am going to do because i know sometimes these get switched up these sensors and the adjusters get switched up i'm going to mark these i'm just going to mark one of them because if i get one right the other one's right all right let's do our injector rail next broken connector look at this one was pre-broken great oh there's another one broken right look at this big old mess oh boy okay we pretty much got all our wiring off let's undo this one final coolant hose and we can get our oil filter housing and oil cooler out of the way let's go ahead and get our fuel injector rail out of the way all right i think we're gonna have to take the clips off and the injectors out separately that was a lot of fuel oh there's more oh yeah oh look at all that fuel coming out of there that'll do a nice job cleaning up our oh my gosh okay it's gonna stink one fuel injector came out look at how crusty that is luckily our turbo kit comes with new injectrons wow look at all that crud next let's deal with this front accessory setup and all this cool stuff we got going on up here get this power steering hose loose take our serpentine belt off you can also put a bolt up in here but rather than digging a bolt out that's super fine to do it that way really that's pretty easy to do when the engine's engines out of the car probably wouldn't be able to get on it like that if the engine were still in the car take our belt tensioner off this thing shot normally this should spin pretty freely and actually have some drag it just has drag like it's all bound up so uh adding this to the list of things that we're going to replace get our mount out next sure there's some pretty good aaa jokes buried in this job here somewhere uh how about our water pump next now you can actually take the water pump off with the pulley still attached but i have found that these triple squares on the 24 valves are very very soft so i like to have as much room to get on them as possible without having to fight around a uh a water pump pulley well our water pump's intact that's fun actually feels all right too nice do our alternator next i'm going to leave the bolts threaded on a little bit and i'm going to take it and hammer and just tap back that should make removing this alternator a little bit easier a little bit anyway there we go when you loosen the bolt and then tap it back with a hammer you're actually tapping the sleeve right here back just enough to open it up to be able to slide the alternator out pretty much do the same thing for the ac compressor and finally power steering pump accessory bracket after run coolant pump let's get all that stuff off too let's go ahead and get our clutch out of the way as well not that i care if it gets off centered or anything but at least it won't fall on the floor create a big old dusty mess all right let's see what we got happening here right wow uh this clutch this clutch looks pretty darn new look at how much friction material is on that bad boy flywheel looks great pressure plate looks great uh yeah that's awesome that's not an i mean look how new this this has all got to be pretty new i bet they did a clutch when they had the chains done so um i missed one let's get this guy off here there we go let's go ahead and work on our valve cover next we are going to take out all of the bolts now these are captive bolts other than the two nuts on the timing chain side so we can just leave these with the valve cover and as we pull off the valve cover i gotta say i'm actually super impressed with how this valve train looks on this engine i have seen many cars with much fewer miles than the roughly 216 000 that this one has in way worse condition so uh that's a good thing and hopefully a sign of things to come with the rest of the engine up next we'll remove our upper timing cover it's just a handful of allen bolts not a big deal we'll also go ahead and get our combi valve with a coolant fitting out of the way this is something we'll probably have to modify before going back together with the car we also need to take our timing chain tensioning bolt out i'm pretty sure our hpa kit comes with a new tensioning bolt because of the way the oil feed goes to the turbocharger i think is a bracket right here in between the upper timing cover and the tensioning bolt we have two allens down at the bottom that go through the lower cover through the head gasket and into our upper cover we'll get those out of the way and then carefully gently pry this cover away from our cylinder head next let's go ahead and get our lower timing cover removed this is a series of 10 millimeter bolts and then we have a couple of allens that go up through the oil pan into our lower cover all right there we go check it out everything behind this lower timing cover looks really good looks like they did both upper and lower chains when the chain job was done which is fantastic even our gears look pretty good now i actually have new gears that we're gonna use so not critical but i'm happy that they're not all worn out let's go ahead and remove our upper chain we'll take the two guide rails out this is the tensioning guide rail we'll go ahead and get that out of the way and we'll get our other guide out of the way and then we can lift that upper chain off i'm pretty sure that the hpa kit comes with a new chain but we're gonna hold on to it anyway just in case next up let's work on getting our cam shafts out i went ahead and labeled the variators for the intake and the exhaust probably not a necessary step but you guys know me i like to over label everything plus we're going to have this engine apart for a little bit of time so i want to make sure that when we go back together with it there isn't any question on where something goes or you know something gets put on on the wrong side we'll go ahead and loosen up the cam bearing caps we'll start on the outsides and work our way in and then as we take these caps off i'll make sure that i put them in the right order so that again going back together with it is super duper easy these actually are labeled as well so between the factory labeling the labels i made and keeping them in the same straight line when we take them off the car there will be no issues when we go back together with it before we can take the cams out of the car we have to take the variator and gear off the end of the camshaft that'll give us access to our adjustment plate that has our solenoids in it and once we get all that off we can finally take our cams off that end plate with the solenoids attached to it serves as an end support for our camshaft it also is what controls all the oil flow throughout our camshaft and for our adjuster you can see our holes in our cam shafts our camshaft ends also have oil control rings on them luckily our oil control rings on the end of the camshafts look pretty good too with all that stuff out we can then inspect our camshaft and inspect our bearing journals to make sure we don't have any scoring and i'm happy to say i don't see any issues here everything looks pretty darn good next up let's take care of our head bolts now the head bolts in many vws are actually a poly drive type socket these babies are triple square so uh make sure you have the right socket because they both kind of fit each other but it'll probably ruin your head bolts if you use the wrong one similar to how we've taken other things apart during this job i like to work from the outside in when loosening these bolts and i'm going to loosen them by hand then we'll come back with our electric impact and we'll go ahead and zip the bolts out and even though we can't reuse these bolts for a cylinder head because the bolts have stretched they are torqued to yield bolts i like to hold on to these they make pretty good driving punches and bolts to hold things temporarily and so it's worth uh worth holding on to them let's do a quick double check and make sure we have all the stuff off the cylinder head so that we can remove said cylinder head now i'm going to leave the exhaust manifolds on the cylinder head for now we'll deal with the bolts and that on the bench once everything's clear get a good grip this is kind of a heavy cylinder head and we can lift it off and over to the bench i'm also going to go ahead and label our pistons to make sure that as we take them out they kind of stay in order once i get them out i'll go ahead and stamp them but for now we'll just do some paint marks cylinder 1 cylinder 3 cylinder 5 cylinder 2 cylinder 4 cylinder 6. you guys are looking at it backwards this is the exhaust manifold side this is the intake manifold side so everything looks really good with our cylinder head i'm super excited and happy about that next we'll rotate the engine around so we can inspect the rod bearings main bearings and make sure everything on what is the bottom end of the engine is good too well there's no chunks in the bottom of the pan that's a good thing this is a new pan though so that may not it may not tell the whole story okay a little bit of yuck up inside the oil pump there but nothing too bad check our drive gear looking at these hex bits on the drive gear is an important thing to check this is where a lot of the ones with balance shaft modules have failures let's start with some main caps these should be marked so we don't really need to paint what order they go in but i do like to put which way they face just as one extra layer of protection so 216 000 miles how do we think this bearing's gonna look oh yeah she looks just fine check that out looks super good let's actually do some connecting rod bearings and see how they look all right well our cap looks good and check it out bearing looks good too outstanding i went ahead and pulled all of the main caps and all of the connecting rods and did a pretty thorough inspection on all of the bearings and i gotta say i am really surprised at how good these bearings look this car has 216 000 miles on them and the bearings look fantastic so the three people that have owned this car before me actually did a really great job maintaining the health of this engine so i'm super happy about that there are some other inspections that we could do like measuring the taper of the cylinder bores because i haven't locked in exactly what piston and connecting rod setup i'm going to go with yet we're going to hold off on that until we determine whether we need machine work or not if we end up going with an oversized piston well the taper of the bore for the cylinder doesn't really matter because we're going to be boring that out all in all i am super happy with how this engine looks i i may not make for as awesome of a video as if it was catastrophic damage but my wallet is rather happy next up this stuff is going to be going to the machine shop we're going to be doing some valve train work at least doing a valve job new guides new seals hot tank get everything cleaned get as much oxidation and rust and paint flake off the block as we can i'll probably be doing the same paint job that i did on the mark iii engine which is still holding up really really well now it's time to do a little more research order a whole bunch of parts and then we wait so we can put everything together with that i'm gonna go ahead and wrap it up if you guys have any questions or comments feel free to leave them down below thank you so much for watching and i'll talk to you next time

Channel: HumbleMechanic

Views: 468,188

Rating: 4.9173574 out of 5

Keywords: r32, humblemechanic, humble mechanic, the humble mechanic, vw mechanic, r32 golf, vr6, vr6t, mk4 r32, vr6 engine, vr6 explained, mk4 golf, mk5 R32, best VW golf, 4 motion, how to buy a used car, used car buying guide, mk4 problems, mk4 r32 issues

Id: KpCtdDB0Qac

Length: 22min 6sec (1326 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 02 2020