Sony A6100 / A6400 / A6600 Training Tutorial Video Overview Manual Video

hi my name is Michael Andrew and I'm about to give you a free to our tutorial on the operation of the Sony a 64 hundred it's a very interesting camera features a front-facing monitor so if you do vlogging you can see yourself as you're recording it also has some outstanding focusing systems I'll have some tests coming to this channel if you want to see them be sure to subscribe if you are coming from another camera system or you're an experienced photographer check out our table of contents you can hit control F or command F depending on your computer type in the keyword and if we have a chapter market for it it'll be highlighted hit the timecode and it'll jump to that specific part of this video this was designed to be a video manual and feel free to come back in reference to it as often as you like for those of you who are pure beginners or intermediate photographers and you're still struggling with photography I have to give you a word of warning this video alone is not going to be enough for you to take great images there are many skill sets and pieces of knowledge that you have to be able to combine in order to really just crush it in photography so I can teach you about the camera but if you don't know about shutter speed and aperture and things of that nature there's an artistic side there's a lighting side there's a digital planning side the files things of that nature you're going to be frustrated and when I got started back in 2003 we didn't have YouTube I had to learn through trial and error and I remember at one point I was so frustrated I wanted to take my camera and throw it into a brick wall I almost gave up but I didn't I stuck with it and photography has been one of the greatest sources of joy in my life and so I make you that promise you were going to run into some frustrations but my job is to get you through it in the teaching style that I use is to focus on the pre-visualization so I want you to see the images up here before you take your picture use the camera as an extension of your brain this is where the magic happens right here it's not in the camera it's how you think about photography all that said I have an a 6400 crash course coming it's going to teach you all these other skill sets and pieces of knowledge there's tons of information in there and then I show you how to synergize them specifically using your camera of course is about anywhere from five to six hours they grow over time you know we get requests for new lessons and we add them comes with a 100% money back guarantee so there's no risk it's a phenomenal investment if you're just getting started I'll put a link in the description it'll take you to my blog if you leave your name and your email address we will reach out to you as soon as it's ready typically takes about three or four weeks to put together another awesome resource is Tony Northrop's stunning digital photography I think it's a great value great investment I know Tony he's a friend of mine but he didn't ask me to include that link I just think it's a really great resource so definitely check that out we have a tremendous amount of information to cover so let's get started let's go over all the external buttons and ports so you know exactly what each does and you will know what I'm talking about in later lessons the most important button on your camera is the shutter button and as on most cameras this is a two phase button meaning as to depths of activation the first is a halfway depression which you are going to feel as a spongy resistance this is going to focus the image depending on where you're focusing square is in your viewfinder or on your monitor pushing it down all the way is going to take the picture take the time to train your finger to know the difference between these two positions on the top of the camera we have the mode dial it is going to allow us to control how our camera behaves when we change our settings we will be talking about this much more later to the right of the mode dial we have a small rotating wheel right above where our right thumb would rest this is our control dial I like to refer to it as the primary selector and it will allow us to change our shutter speed our aperture depending on what mode we are in in the manual mode it is going to change your aperture on the back of the camera there is a wheel which I like to call the multi selector because of the many ways it works when you rotate it by default it will act as the primary exposure control as well however in manual mode rotating this wheel will change your shutter speed something that is easy to miss at first glance is that this rotating wheel can also be pushed directionally so up down left or right in order to change different settings to navigate the menu options move around on a zoomed image things of that nature this is going to be very useful when going through the menu in making different choices when you are in a shooting mode meaning you can see your subject in the viewfinder or monitor right before you take the shot this directional pad will allow us to select different features and you probably also notice these icons for example if we want to change our ISO we would press to the right which would open the ISO selection menu and then we can navigate by rotating or pressing directionally on our wheel if we want to change our shooting drives which is what the camera does after we press the shutter button down all the way can be a single shot a burst timer we would press to the left and then make our selection pressing down will allow us to access our exposure compensation for the P s and a modes as well as the manual mode when auto ISO is selected moving that tick mark in those modes to the right will brighten our image in to the left it will darken our image and this is reflected in the monitor preview I'll go into much greater detail on this in another lesson pressing up repeatedly allows us to toggle through different monitor display options in the middle of this wheel there is a selection button and this acts as an enter or a return button when we navigate menus to the right of the shutter button we have the c1 mutton in the garbage button is also the c2 button C stands for customisable the default of these buttons when you get the camera our c1 will select your focusing modes c2 is our white balance control I will be showing you how to customize these a little later on in another lesson around the shutter button we have the power switch to turn the camera on or off the button next to where our right ring finger would rest is the lens release button we're going to push this every time we want to take a lens off of the camera body in the middle on the top of our camera we have a force flash button this will allow a very small pop-up flash to activate and can provide some very limited fill to the right of that we have the deep menu button we're going to have a huge lesson on the deep menu dedicated to the most important items in there now this selector switch is a little confusing I call it the opposite focus button we see an AF and an MF and when the lever is selected to this position this little button is going to do the opposite of whatever we have our shutter button to do focus wise let's say we have our camera and main shutter button set up to do auto focus and for whatever reason we need to dial in precise manual focus when the lever is pointed to af/mf pushing and holding this little button will do the opposite so in this case manual focus and then we can dial it in precisely if the camera is in manual focus pushing and holding this button will tell the camera to use autofocus so just keep this in mind it's going to do the opposite focus wise of whatever you're half way shutter depression is going to do I wouldn't worry about using it too much until you have your basic controls such as exposure and basic focusing down first if we flip the switch down this button now becomes the auto exposure lock button which freezes our exposure settings as long as we hold it down you will notice we also have a magnifying glass which means that in a playback mode this is going to allow us to zoom in and out next we have the FN or the function button which in a shooting mode will allow us to pull up a mini menu this menu can be customized so we can determine which items appear you will also notice this is a sin art phone button the monitor is touch-sensitive this is going to be very useful when moving our focusing squares however at the time of this recording it will not allow us to interact with the menu or with images during playback however it will flip up in face forward which is very useful for recording vlogs or shooting selfies just below the primary selector we have the video record button and you're going to press this every time you want to record video on the right side of the viewfinder we have the diopter adjustment it's very easy to miss this allows us to change the electrical viewfinder focus if we wear glasses or contacts on the left side of the camera under a small door we have our ports going from top to bottom they are USB port is going to allow us to connect our camera to a computer using the cable that came with it or to power our camera or to charge our battery as it rests inside of the camera housing but I would strongly suggest getting an external one so you can charge your batteries and still use your camera next is the mini HDMI out port and this is going to allow us to send a video to a recorder or an external monitor below that we have our microphone jack which will allow us to feed an external microphone into the camera very important for good audio and beneath the camera on the right side you have your battery an SD card slot so that is an overview of the cameras external buttons and ports with an introduction of their names in a short summary of what they do if you ever forget which button does what just come on back and we'll go over it again for the rest of the video we are going to discuss each of these buttons in depth as well as how to use them in real life shooting situations so there's a couple things I wanted to show before we get into the overview of the camera depending on whether you bought your camera as a kit or not you may or may not have an e mount cap the cap has this big mark on the side and as you rotate it counterclockwise you'll see it release right here this white dot is going to help us align our lenses 16:55 here might not be able to see this but the white dots right here we're gonna line them up and then we're gonna rotate clockwise something I want to point out and something that I like about Sony's is their design so you can use your ring finger to hold the camera with one hand push down on this release mechanism here and then rotate the lens off that's very nice something else I want to point out have the cap from the 16 to 50 and if you look very carefully under the lid on the reverse side of it it'll tell you the filter thread for the lens and this is typical for most lenses forty point five millimeters so what that means is that you can buy filters for your sixteen to fifty lens that will actually thread in right here it's very hard to see and most lenses have threads on them but I used this lens the same exact lens for gimbal shots on a film because it was small and lightweight at the time and I ended up purchasing special filters that would thread into them and it worked out great so just keep this in mind every time you want to take a lens off you got a push in rotate counterclockwise when you put it back on rotate it until it clicks shares snapping so real quick let's talk about the battery you should definitely buy a couple extra of these they're small they don't last very long when you're doing lots of video recording and I'll make those recommendations at the end of the video the contacts are going to face towards the camera body push it in to hear it click it's a little blue lever right here is to release it I like the SanDisk Extreme Pro memory cards and the main thing you want to look for these are fairly inexpensive I mean I think like less than $30 but you'll see a little symbol there that says u3 that means that the card is designated to sustain 4k write speeds and these pins face the battery so just think of the pins facing each other push it into you hear it clicks shut the door switch over you're ready to go this strange thing right here is a shoe it screws into the bottom of the camera and I use it to attach to a ball head on top of a tripod I'll show you that real quick I think a tripod is a phenomenal investment and I really like ball heads for photography because they allow you to rotate in different positions and then lock it down so this shoe if I tilt it in and then move it back there's a locking mechanism back here that really I mean it's very difficult to take this off without removing this lever and even then I have to take the safety switch so it really locks your camera in and then you can put it in different positions and and then lock it down it's very useful highly recommend a ball head for photography when we get into the video shooting stuff I'll show you a different head called a fluid head that's designed more for video work so obviously when you turn your camera on for the first time it's going to ask you the language we can enter the date and time I am in the Hawaiian time zone we don't have daylight savings here believe it or not I'm going to set my date and time so something that you're will notice is that we have an app that we can connect to for smartphone and it's telling it's giving you some information with a QR code we will be talking about how to connect by Wi-Fi a little bit later in the video probably towards the end of the lesson brand new memory card it's connecting it's preparing the database and we're ready to go something I want to point out is that 16 to 55 lens has a zoom switch that if you push it up and down it's going to allow you to zoom in and out for its size and what you're getting out of it it's actually not that bad I've used it in professional settings before for its size on a gimbal as I mentioned it's a very small very lightweight camera with a lot of firepower we're seeing some things some just incredible technology coming from Sony their sensors are outstanding the focusing systems are top-tier for mirrorless cameras and what they're doing with their algorithms and I'll be demonstrating this in the focusing lessons a little bit later so when you turn the camera on for the first time and you see all these little icons it can be very intimidating we also have a different menu we have this deep menu we'll be talking about this in depth and the one thing that I wish would happen would would be to have a touch monitor that we can navigate you know through the menus and stuff we have some touch screen functionality but it's not where I want it to be and I'll be detailing this a little bit later by the way if you don't have your camera go ahead and grab it come on back and watch and follow along so I can point these things out so the first thing I want you to do is to get comfortable changing your display you can see it's written here on our directional pad multi selector that as you push up you can toggle different sets of information this is our black information screen is a lot of things to learn there and then we've looped around so you might be asking yourself what does all this mean the most important things are right here on the bottom shutter speed aperture and ISO which is set to auto right now you're going to see something similar in the viewfinder and something else you need to point out is that we have this little switch here just to the left of the viewfinder that when something is in front of it it's going to shut the this monitor off and turn the EVF on it's a power saving feature designed to you know just save your your battery juice and there are ways to turn this on and off of the menu if you're shooting from a gimbal it makes a lot of sense to turn this off your exposure or the amount of light that hits the sensor it's controlled by shutter speed and aperture the ISO is an artificial gain or boost that is added after the light has been captured we can change our ISO by pushing to the right on our multi selector wheel here auto ISO has great applications we'll be talking a little bit about that and you can notice that the shutter speed in the aperture changed we'll be talking about all that stuff a little bit later first let me walk you through what do all these symbols mean this guy here is the exposure compensation I'll explain exactly what that is and you're also going to notice the camera is giving us some prompts to change certain settings in the P mode I'll put that out a little bit later in the top left hand corner we have our shooting mode we have our shooting drives which is what the camera does after we push the shutter button down all the way we have our focusing mode we have our focusing cluster we have face detection picture profiles these are designed for in camera video grading there's a there's tons of different things we can do to our video in camera a lot of videographers use them to prepare the video for grading that they'll add on their computers metering modes are how the camera measures light entering the camera we have our white balance D range optimizer which is going to adjust some of the contrast of our JPEG images creative styles are essentially sets of instructions that we give to our camera when they create JPEGs so when we take an image for the first time there's raw data captured and about 80% of that information is thrown away think of the creative styles as what we're telling the camera to keep and then we have these filter effects not really a super professional feature but they're fun to look at on the top of our screen we have our memory card number of shots remaining this depends a lot on the type of file we have selected aspect ratio number of megapixels this is our image stabilized indicator this fine here refers to our JPEG compression near-field communication we have our battery life indicator in the percentage so that's just the basic overview of the information that we see on the back camera as we push up we can get that to disappear keep pushing up we have our histogram the level has two parts to it there's an up and down which is indicated with that little orange these two orange guys when you get that lined up that'll turn green and then inside to side C so if I mess this up we lose it very handy when shooting landscapes when we continue to push up on the directional pad we have this black information screen there's a lot of the same stuff we just talked about there's some new things this is the histogram there's the level this is our exposure compensation bar we can see it's five stops on either side now the difference here is that we can interact with these by pushing the FN button do this orange highlight we can scroll over different menu items and we can change them by pushing into the directional pad the set button so we can change things like our drives drives or what the camera does after we push the shutter button down all the way we have our high-speed continuous burst the medium burst a low burst and a high plus burst high-speed continuous burst is supposed to give us about 11 frames per second but it's going to be depending on some of our camera settings in each of these kind of go lower in frames per second just depending on what you're trying to do but if your sports suit shooting and you're trying to get the most out of it either high plus or aged self-timer ten-second timer if we continue anytime you see one of these little arrows on the left or right you have more options 5 second timer 2 second timer back to 10 we have a continuous timer which means the camera is going to take multiple images after the timer finishes 10 seconds 3 images you can see how it changes over here 5 images 5 seconds 3 images all kinds of combinations depending on what you're trying to do this would be useful for like group photos you want to take multiple images to make sure you know you have at least one picture where everybody has their eyes open coming down we have bracketing bracketing means that we're giving the camera instructions to change certain settings between each shot there is a continuous bracket and there is a single bracket what is the difference between that continuous bracket means we are letting the camera take all of the images we only have to push a shutter button down once to shoot it single bracket means that we have to push a shutter button down each time so what are these numbers in here mean 0.3 ev9 image evie is an exposure value one third of a stop nine images so in this case we're telling the camera to take nine images and to change the exposure one third of a stop will talk about stops a little bit later but that's essentially what's going on and if we see we have these arrows here we can push left and right and we get all kinds of combinations I think goes all the way up to three stops or is it yep three stops across five images so five images three stops of difference between each five it's pretty amazing and then again we have these options for single shots but we have to push your book shutter button down each time and then we get bracketing for white balance between low and high and our dynamic range optimizer low and high so that is a quick overview of the drive modes available coming back out to the menu we have our metering modes we'll be talking about that in depth white balance we have our flash control talked a little bit about that pretty much all the stuff creative controls we have our focus in clusters face detection whatever filter effects aspect ratio picture profiles we have our silent shooting when you turn this on we will get no mechanical shutter it's going to shoot electronic we can get eight frames continuous focus I think on the high-speed burst for silent shooting just keep in mind that if you see some in fact we might be able to pull this off let's take a look at it real quick take a picture see if we can get some banding going here there it is banding if you see this I'm shooting with an LED light now in my living room on these white blinds this is an artifact very common with electronic shutters so if you see this your camera's not broken in electronic shutter mode there's this defect created and the way to get around that is to shoot with a mechanical shutter so unfortunately if you're using you know if you're shooting an LED lit conditions so let's play that so that's LED silent shutter this mechanical shutter very common complaint it's just one of those things we also have our quality you can control whether it's raw or JPEG or JPEG and RAW so tons of information but this FN menu the function menu or the black info screen that I sometimes call it I think it's more helpful to have access to most of those menu items while you're shooting in this original screen that we started with so if you push the FN button here we can toggle it on or off so the cool thing about this is there's a way to customize this according to our tastes with time you're going to have a preference for changing certain things but there are some other things in here that you may or may not want you know you may not watch your Flash compensation you may not want creative styles or JPEGs or your shooting mode here so the way you change these did you come into the menu press the deep menu button we have our purple tab page eight out of nine and you're going to come to the function menu set going to hit that and you can see the different kinds of information that we can swap out so if you didn't want flash compensation you can come in here and pick from many pages different all kinds of different things you want audio signals shutter button see if it'll show up in shooting mode so the beep mode is now on it's basically the beep mode do you even want that you can come back in select it will go back to flash mode flash compensation there it is so that is how you can customize this for your function menu so something I need to point out about the function menu is that when we rotate to the video mode I'm just flipping this over to the video mode or crop versus the FN you can see that we've lost some of these features and that's because those are still features only and so the idea on this is that the function menu is going to be the same whether you're for stills or video I think this should be a separate one when you flip over the video icon but there's nowhere to change that in the menu so if we come into the menu it's just one function and you set so something I should point out is that when you press the play button and again push up on our display we can toggle through different sets of information specifically about the picture so we can see which white balance which creative control or dynamic range optimizer the folder the file number the focal length ISO so just know it's there if you are a brand new or an intermediate photographer this next lesson is probably the most important on this video and this has to do with exposure control exposure as you remember is the amount of light that hits the sensor so we're talking about how do we control how much light is entering to into the camera so we have this thing called the mode dial up here and as we rotate this you can see the modes are changing we get P a s and M those the ones we're going to start off with and the easiest way for me to explain this is talking about the a mode first a stands for aperture priority and in this mode when we rotate our main control wheel or dial this is going to change our aperture so it's changing the size of the diameter of the opening terms of how much light a lot of light or a teeny amount of light and as we rotate this and we get to a higher number what's happening is the aperture is getting smaller and smaller and as we go the other direction and open it it's getting wider and wider it's letting more light in there's something interesting happening here that if you are very keen to observe you should be asking if I'm changing the aperture how come the brightness doesn't change ok so what's happening in aperture priority mode is that we determine the aperture and the camera determines the shutter speed we can see it changing right here and what's happening is the camera is making adjustments automatically for us so we don't have to worry about it this can be very handy in certain shooting conditions so when I was a wedding photographer if I'm shooting in a dark chapel here comes the bride and groom and we're walking out now they're in the foyer now they're outdoors and it's bright and sunny I didn't have time to change my shutter speed so in those situations I would let the camera handle it and I could focus on composition and not tripping and things of that nature certain sports shooters like to shoot an aperture priority mode why because they don't have to worry about dialing in the shutter speed so if you are a beginning or an intermediate photographer my recommendation is to start off on aperture priority it means that you are going to pick the aperture the camera is going to handle the shutter speed so what I want you to do now we're going to do this little exercise so I want you to take a picture of a wall or something and just look at it okay so it's nice even exposure it should be and now what we're going to start talking about is exposure compensation it's a fancy way of saying changing the brightness exposure compensation can be accessed by pushing down on our directional pad see this plus minus sign that is the universal symbol for exposure compensation so when we push this down we get this crazy little bracket that shows up all I want you to learn right now you try is to move that over to plus one take another picture now what I want you to do is to compare this picture with the first one he took I'm doing this by just touching back and forth on the directional pad so the first one is darker and the second one's brighter right so this is how we change image brightness if this is the only lesson that you come away from tonight with this exposure compensation changing the image brightness you are well on your way to becoming an excellent photographer so that is a great exercise is practice changing the brightness of your image by shooting an aperture priority mode pushing down to get exposure compensation go up plus 2 and then try one at negative 2 what do you think's going to happen see how dark it is so when we compare those really dark really bright even so exposure compensation there's even exposure compensation is giving the camera instructions to change the brightness so question you may be asking is how does that happen so I want to show you this this is pretty cool we're gonna put it back on an even exposure hit the set button and open up out my aperture as wide as I can 3.5 look at the shutter speed one two hundredth of a second so now check this out we're going to go to plus one now look at the shutter speed 1/100 of a second so what's happening is when we engage exposure compensation we're telling the camera to shift the shutter speed to make it twice as bright how do I know that 1/100 of a second is twice as long as one two hundredths of a second why because if you take one two hundredth of a second and you add it to itself you get to two hundredths of a second so if we simplify that to two hundredths of a second is 1/100 of a second so this shutter speed is twice as long as the first one so check this out let's go to plus two you're probably wondering what these little numbers mean each number refers to a stop so every full stop is twice the amount of light what do you think the shutter speeds gonna be on this one think about it if you said one fiftieth of a second you're absolutely correct so what do you think plus three stops would be if plus two was one fiftieth if you said 125th of a second you're absolutely correct so this is the heart of the matter with exposure compensation is we're giving the camera instructions to shift the brightness based on the shutter speed so the original is one two hundredth of a second if we go in the other direction now we want a shutter speed that is twice as fast than one two hundredth of a second if you said one 400 of a second you are absolutely correct if you can get this one principal down tonight exposure compensation changing brightness and this is how it works you have cleared a huge hurdle in terms of photography I want to show you something else see the fun never ends with Michael the Maven so want you to take your hand and I want you to put it in front of your lens on aperture priority mode and watch what happens to the shutter speed see it changing so what's happening is the camera is constantly measuring the amount of light that enters through the lens and it is making adjustments as you shoot as the lighting conditions change and exposure compensation would be respected in those conditions so there are a couple words of warning I have to give you about aperture priority there's a temptation just to you know dial in the aperture and start shooting but you should sneaky peek over at your shutter speed depending on what you are shooting because the shutter speed does matter and if you get into very very slow shutter speeds let's say one thirtieth of a second and you're attempting to take a picture of a person it's probably going to be blurry why because we move holding the camera in our subjects often move as well even if they're just sitting there breathing they're moving a little bit so the safe shutter speed that I recommend for portraits really is around 162 ii if you're good if you're a pure beginner and you can't hold the camera super steady maybe one one hundredth or one 125th of a second for portraits if you are a sports shooter shooting moving athletes I think the shutter speed you really need to have is at least one five hundredth of a second this is my personal preference if they are fast athletes it might be more one one-thousandth maybe one mm of a second just depends on on what you're shooting but the absolute minimum for a fast-moving subject in my world is one five hundredth of a second so the question you should be asking yourself is if we're in an indoor shooting situation like we are now basketball game let's say how do we get a faster shutter speed the way we do this is we are going to bump up our ISO remember ISO is gain it's a boost that we're giving to the light so look shutter speeds change went from 800 to 1600 we've doubled our shutter speed let's double our ISO and see what happens 3200 one eight hundred thousand so that is a very important concept and you're going to be bumping up your ISO in low-light situations if you don't know what ISO does let me show it to you real quick we're going to use an outrageous ISO to really exaggerate this and then I'm going to stop my aperture down and we're going to take a picture and take a look at it we're going to zoom in so you can see we have all this I don't know if you can see it very well see here you can see that better so we have all this grain not pleasing at all now let's take our ISO turn it way down let's go to 800 again open up our aperture take another picture zoom in and you can see this is far cleaner so that's the trade-off with ISO is that as we add this gain the image can become noisy and it is to get really really high it's definitely going to be noisy there's certain limits so many sensors are actually pretty good and you're going to be able to get away with some higher ISOs just depends on your subject matter just take a look at it as you're shooting that that is the trade-off of ISO is the higher it goes the more grain you're going to get so having said all this stuff let's take a look at shutter priority which is different than aperture priority in that we change the shutter speed and the camera is going to be changing the aperture so we change the primary setting for that mode shutter priority we change the shutter camera changes the aperture so let's say we're at a sporting event and we're trying to get that one five hundredth of a second and we dial this in and you see this apertures flashing this means the camera is not happy what the camera is saying is that it cannot open the lens more cannot open it it's physically limited it's not going to be able to pull off the exposure you desire that's what it's trying to say so how would you try to solve this think about it for just a second if you said bump the ISO up you're absolutely correct it's turn that up quite a bit camera is no longer complaining you can treat a one five hundredth of a second at f5 and you're going to be good to go that is another critical skill if you are using shutter priority mode in the exposure compensation side of this the adjustment is going to happen to the aperture there it is it's 7.1 here it is at five point zero so that's one stop of difference if we try to bump it up and then the lens can't physically open that far it's going to it's right at the border right now so you know it's not happy can't open it wide enough so that's the thing you have to kind of keep in mind on shutter priority is the physical limitations of the lens let's take a look at program mode program mode you can see that it's trying to tell us we can change some of these settings in program mode in certain situations can be good if you're if you're really intimidated it could be a good place to start but what it's trying to do is to give us different combinations of both aperture and shutter speed one of the problems with the program mode is often beginners will come in and they'll set their camera to something like this something crazy f-22 with the shutter speed of 125th of a second and they'll go out and they'll take pictures and they won't under stand why all their images are blurry because this is slow shutter speed were set one 500 blue that one fifth of a second so what I recommend is that if you do shoot on program mode just keep an eye on that shutter speed one sixtieth one one hundredth of a second for handheld shooting it's a good place to start we can also change our exposure compensation but the camera is going to make its own determinations in terms of where this happens we can adjust our ISO if we want to give it more range program mode has a time in place but I hardly ever use it now let's talk about manual mode my rule of thumb for manual mode is I only use it if I have enough time to dial in my settings if I'm pressed for time at an event typically aperture priority mode I also use manual mode almost exclusively in studio settings where we have strobes models and we're just trying to dial it in precisely in the manual mode we change our aperture by rotating our main control wheel we can can change our shutter speed by rotating just simply rotating this main dial on our directional pad so this is adjusting our shutter speed now as we go for exposure compensation you're going to notice we get locked out and it's saying this is unavailable you have to be an auto ISO for exposure compensation to work so so let's talk about auto ISO real quick to access it we're going to come into ISO and we're going to push up until we get to ISO Auto and it is exactly like it sounds we're basically giving the camera permissioned to change the ISO an example of when this would be useful is if we were shooting an indoor let's say boxing match and we had a very specific shutter speed that we wanted let's say 1 you know 5 hundredths of a second we had our aperture locked in but there we're still changing lighting conditions with all these lights coming on and off and that can be very difficult to control it can happen spontaneously so set the ISO to auto turn that over to the camera and let the camera adjust the ISO settings from shot to shot that would be one example of how to use auto ISO and I know I know people who love it so you come up a little higher and we have this thing called multiframe noise reduction and if we come over and select this we can go standard or high we can also choose the exact ISO that we want or we can turn it over to auto ISO and what's happening in multi-frame noise reduction is the camera is going to take multiple images stack them together and reduce the noise based on that stack my understanding is this out how the pixel 3 works in night mode is taking multiple images and it's basically adding those exposures together and reducing the noise through different kinds of processing let's try it out it sounded like five images some writing going on and then we get a final image so if you're in a situation where you want to try to reduce your ISO noise probably very high ISO your subject matter isn't moving that might be a fun feature to try out auto ISO is also available on your other shooting modes just so you know just turn this back to like 800 or thousand you are going to notice that we have some other modes on the mode dial let's talk about these real quick the green auto mode I affectionately call the dummy mode when you turn it on auto you're essentially turning your camera into a point-and-shoot we have some things we can change in here maybe our drive mode our focusing mode it's it's really designed to take almost all the settings away from you and you have we can use smartphones this way you didn't buy this camera to use it as a point-and-shoot so I tell beginners to stay away from it don't use the dummy mode if you can help it if you continue to rotate and we come to this SCN the scene mode see if it lets us change down here you can come in here and the idea on the scene mode is and we see this with all camera companies they pretty much have these is the camera companies in saying what do you want to shoot okay a person so if you select this the camera is going to pick the creative picture style so to speak it's going to pick the shutter speed you know it's going to try to do most of the heavy lifting for you we don't have those controls can't change them and this is why I don't recommend using this is because you're gonna want to tweak something and you're not going to be able to and I see this as kind of a dead end sport shooting macro landscape sunset night scene handheld twilight night portrait anti motion blur most of these kinds of shooting can be done with the modes I've shown you if you understand how the camera operates and you're gonna get far more control over them so I tell my students to not use the same mode as well in a perfect world if you're one of my students I would say aperture priority mode manual mode those are the two still shooting modes that you should focus on so we also have this panorama mode which is just like it sounds we would take a sweeping shot of a landscape holding the shutter button down in the direction of the arrow and sometimes they can be really great in fact I use this if I don't have a super wide angle lens like with let's say out of 24 or even a 35 you can use panorama mode and get away with some crazy stuff and it's really not that bad but that's just another feature I will demonstrate on the full crash course will take you down to the beach and I'll show you it in action so what does this m are on the top of our button memory and memory recall this allows us to essentially save certain camera settings in memory so we don't have to redial this in every single time so one example of this would be a scuba diving photographer once the camera goes into a housing it's very it's not always the easiest thing to change settings you might have to tweak your white balance you know your picture style your creative styles the focusing mode things of that nature and so what they'll do is they'll come out to their regular shooting mode we're in manual mode they'll get it all set up the way they want with all their individual settings so we're going to come into our menu read tab page for mr1 and to memory come in here and we're going to tell the camera to remember the settings that we've dialed in in position one so when I hit save the set button is going to register it and then when I flip the dial over 2mr I can come in and those settings are saved so we have multiple positions for this look how many to three seven of them so just by coming in and setting these up which one you want when you come in and select one of these numbers your mr mode will select that number so let's say we check we select number three and we go back to manual mode we flip it back to mr there it is it's three because it's giving us a chance to change it but this indicator right here one two three it shows position three highlighted the other ones the M one through four you have to come in here to the menu and select M so lets us pick M one come back out to shoot we'll go to manual mode back to M R and it kind of resets so these are the ones that are going to be remembered these are not when you change between modes so we really have seven memory positions which is outstanding let's talk about white balance there is a short answer to this and there is a much longer philosophy of use answer to this that I talked about on the crash course I'm going to give you the short answer if you are a pure beginner set your camera to auto white balance we can do this by pressing the c2 button there it is a WB auto white balance start off with this until you get a hang of your exposure settings and what's going to happen is you're eventually going to notice the color looks off in certain shooting situations when you start to notice that and you're feeling frustrated what you need to do is to come in to your white balance and try to pick the icon matching the situation that you're shooting in for example sunlight balance the Sun icon you have shade cloud-cover incandescent light look how blue it is we have fluorescent light different types of fluorescent light warm white cool white day white day light we have flashlights balance we have underwater white balance something I really appreciate about Sony cameras is because the white balance underwater gets really weird Kelvin white balance we have three different custom white balances so what's happening here is basically our human eyes are really good at adjusting to different types of light sources it happens automatically we don't think about it camera sensors are a little bit different they need to know the color of the light we're shooting in camera senses see this differently see it as more shades of blue and yellow and that's basically what's happening is that it's adding a little bit of color in certain shooting situations so I'm gonna talk more about the philosophy of this when we get into the crash course but real quick let's talk about Kelvin temperature and we'll talk about custom white balance stay what let's talk about custom white balance first custom white balance allows us to take a picture of something white giving the camera instructions that hey this is white adjust the white balance accordingly so when we come into custom white balance we have this arrow pointing to the right we can push set when it's highlighted press the set button that's this guy right here to capture data the central area of the screen so when I was shooting weddings sometimes this would happen we would get mixed light it'd be fluorescent light and tungsten light a little bit of shade and in the corner there be some sunlight coming in how does the camera know what the color temperature is take a picture of the bride's dress or a white wall or a white ceiling or a white piece of paper in this case the blinds push the set button the camera is measuring the whiteness and it's basically telling you okay you are in this Kelvin temperature and then we hit enter come into our FN there it is there's our white balance setting right here we can change it as well so white balance is going to be really critical if you are shooting JPEGs or if you are shooting video video is a form of JPEG so because it's JPEG and all this informations being thrown away we have to make sure it's correct it's not so easy to change color if it's really messed up in post-production so far more important for videographers and if you're shooting JPEG if you're shooting raw and you have all that original data and information it's not quite as important why because we can usually process that out so that's some of the train of thought there let's talk about real quick the Kelvin white balance Kelvin allows us to manually input the temperature of the light we're shooting in so daylight is typically around 5600 Kelvin these kelvins I'll explain in the crash course what they are what they mean but the idea is that you come in here and adjust this up and down and we know it's 4800 because that's what the custom white balance told us you see how it's getting more neutral and so as we turn this down it becomes more and more blue at lower temperatures and then at very high temperatures the appearance is more and more orange or yellow and what's happening is the camera is adding color to counterbalance the temperature that we're shooting in something else that we can do is if we continue to push to the right see this little arrow right here we have the ability to actually shift the color white balance in blue to the left amber to the right green above and magenta below so this is allowing us to tweak the color of the white balance itself I very rarely use it although I have used it before on Sony cameras to make it a little bit more cooler in certain situations but very rarely if you're beginning or intermediate photographer I would say stay away from this for now we're gonna cancel out of that and come back out and stick with this guy for now let's talk about our cameras metering modes metering modes determine how the camera measures light if you remember when we were taking our hand and putting in front of the camera this is how it works the camera is looking for patterns of light to measure in the easiest thing I can do to explain this is in the beginning if you're pure beginner stay on this mode right here the multimode but the easiest way for me to explain this is in the spot metering mode so basically what I did is I selected spot metering mode and it's kind of hard to see but there's a little circle that appeared in our viewfinder and what's happening is is the camera is measuring light specifically within that circle so if you'll notice the shutter speed here 1 325 a second 3.5 I so watch what happens when I move this over the over this headlamp that I set up everything gets dark because why the camera is only looking in this one spot it's recommending a shutter speed of 1/4 thousandth of a second in the instant we move that circle just off a little bit boom it's looking at the blinds but it's totally ignoring the light now it's looking at the blinds behind it and so that is the heart of the matter with metering is we're instructing the camera to to look at certain parts of the frame now if we come back into our metering mode I'm accessing it through the FN the function menu and we come back in you'll see we have these two little arrows off to the side and if we push to the right we get large what does that look like well it's just a bigger circle now there it is and it is sampling a greater area and it's noticing that this isn't as bright as the rest and therefore we don't need a shutter speed that fast if you are a pure beginner what I recommend is starting off with this the default is the multi metering mode and what's happening here is the camera is breaking up the entire frame into patterns and it's trying to figure out you know what's bride what stars trying to figure out what the average exposure of your subject matter should be let's talk about some of the other ones that's a good place to start simply because if it's overexposed you can turn your exposure compensation down if it's underexposed you can bump it up and for the most part it's going to be pretty good center-weighted metering mode is really a combination of the multi in the spot it's essentially giving some priority to the center but it does look at the entire frame entire screen averaging is just like it sounds it's looking at the entire frame and it's averaging all of the subject matter in terms of the brightness to get a recommended exposure setting and this last one is fairly new it's called the high light metering mode essentially we're giving permission to the camera to make the right recommendation based on the highlights if you have something very very bright if you are shooting in a nightclub or at a concert where you're subject maybe you know have bright lights on them in the backgrounds dark this might be a fun mode try something I want to point out that's pretty cool we can do with Sony cameras this is when we go to the spot metering mode we have this circle we can actually tie this to our focusing point and so the way we do that is we have to come into our menu we're going to be on page 8 spot metering point we can determine whether it'll be at the center or we can link it to our focusing point the focus in cluster I'm going to go to a single point and now what you can see is that circle is tied to my focusing point and I can move it around so the spot metering mode can be specifically tied to our focusing square if we have a single square like this and of course we can obviously move it around with the touch screen so that is a very powerful technique to link the spot metering mode with our individual focusing square to revert to come back in turn it to Center and we've separated those two again it's time to tackle our cameras focusing modes and if this is your first camera it can be very intimidating Sony cameras are very complex they're very powerful in terms of focusing systems and there's a lot to get lost in so the easiest way to think about this is the how the wind and the where the camera is focusing how when and where if you focus on those concepts no pun intended everything is gonna be fine so out of the box how does the camera focus well I talked about it it's with a halfway shutter button depression push your shutter button halfway down it focuses this is indicated with this green dot in the bottom left hand corner we also get these four box corners push you down all the way camera takes the picture it's pretty straight forward that's the default method I'll be talking about some other things in a second so now let's talk about when the camera is focusing we can access our cameras focusing modes default is the c1 button I think that's a pretty good place for it Oh doesn't like something I've done here and this af/mf control I'm going to push that in push it again there it is talk about that in just a second AFS stands for autofocus single shot and it's just like it sounds it means the camera is going to get a focusing lock one time and as long as we hold the shutter button halfway down the focus will not change it's locked and there are some powerful techniques referred to as recomposing basically means we can get a focusing lock hold the shutter button halfway down and we can recompose the same to make it more visually pleasing one time focus auto focus continuous is different in that the camera is going to focus over and over and over again it is a repetitive continuous focus and you'll notice that the icon changed here in the bottom of tan corner we get these green parentheses around the circle we also do not get a beep what's happening is the camera is focusing repeatedly this is going to be ideal for moving subjects such as a bird in flight maybe an athlete somebody swimming somebody running ideal for sports shooting so typically what you need to be on autofocus automatic mode basically means we're giving permission to the camera to switch back and forth between those first two modes if the subject is still it's going to be autofocus single if it's moving it's going to be autofocus continuous there are a lot of times on our shooting weddings I would rely on AF a not so much anymore I usually dial it in right off the bat manual focus is exactly what it sounds like the camera is not helping us we have to rely on the manual focus ring on our lens and I have some other tools turned on right now such as the magnify assist which is a magnification and it's automatically punching in wherever our focusing square is so when I am in manual focus and I rotate that ring it's going to punch in DMF stands for direct manual focus and this is going to be a hybrid between autofocus single and manual focus the way it works is that we push a shutter button halfway down we get a focus lock and then holding the shutter button halfway down if we rotate our focus ring on our lens we now have the ability to dial in manual focus so this allows us to get focused lock and we can fine-tune it a little bit further with the manual focusing ring so that is the when the camera is focusing whether it's a single continuous or a manual type of focus now let's talk about the where the camera is focusing there's two parts to this I refer to the cameras focusing squares as clusters so using the touch monitor we can touch on the screen and designate where we want to move the focusing square that's one way we can do it and there's some other ways I am going to show you after a short discussion for now let's just say touching on the monitor will allow us to position the squares I'm also going to come in here and go back to single-shot focus so to access our cameras focusing clusters we're going to use our function button and we're going to come over right here focus area you can see we get tons of different options if you do not want to choose where the camera is focusing you just want to turn it over you would go with focus area wide and what's going to happen is the camera is going to be looking for an area of contrast and it's going to pick it out so we can see those individual focusing points being used push down all the way to take the picture zone means that we are choosing a smaller area that we're telling the camera to look in so something very interesting happened there in that I'm able to now use this directional pad and there's a trick to this that when you see this select focus point on off this is going to allow us to move with the directional pad if we need to and to turn it off we would press the set button so why would you want to do that well we steam still need access to these other menu items you've got our drives we have our exposure compensation so the question then becomes if you were shooting through the viewfinder and you wanted to move this square around again how would you do that and that's gonna take a little bit of a discussion I'll come to in just a second the zone focus and cluster allows us to limit the area the camera is looking in push your shutter button halfway down and it's going to find an area of contrast in there there is a great trick to this when you are vlogging and this is what I use in my camera setups most of them on YouTube you'll find me usually speaking on on one side and I'll put pictures and titles and things of that nature this is the mode that I use but I use it in conjunction with face detection I'll show you that in just a second Center focusing square it's a single Square and basically we're locked into the center I know there are a lot of sports shooters that prefer to shoot with this it's just preference you cannot move this next we have our flexible spot it says m4 medium if we push to the left and right we can get different sizes there's large small and medium so if we take a look at the large you can see that it's big it's giving us this prompt that we can still move it around if we want let's take a look at some of the other sizes small look how small and precise that is so if you were a macro photographer or you wanted very precise focusing you could use the small and we also have medium I use medium and large for a lot of sports shooting usually pretty much on large it just depends on what I'm doing kind of lens is amusing but that focusing square over my subject it's great that I can touch on the screen right pretty fast this is very fast touching on this obviously but there are some problems with this all outline in just a second so that is our flexible focusing square expand flexible spot gives the camera permission to look around the center square if you cannot find a subject of contrast in the middle it does exactly like it sounds looking for the spot if there's nothing in there so if we can get it to work we will look just outside there it goes in order for me to show you this last one and I have to change my focusing mode so if you see this then it's not highlighted tracking it wants us to use autofocus continuous for example come back in I don't know how it's possible for a beginner to know all this stuff it's just so technical so the idea on tracking is that when we select our subject see this little box with the two lines on the side we know it's servo because we get the parentheses and so the idea is that if you hold the shutter button halfway down it is going to track that subject the focusing systems on a 6400 are really really good among the best I have ever seen for a mirrorless camera I need to go out and do some tests side-by-side but they appear to be improved over the a7 3 which were really good you know so if they hold up to the testing probably looking at one of the best mirrorless focusing cameras in the world at the time of this recording and so that's how the tracking works is it's going to get that lock and hold on to it so something you'll notice are these arrows to the left and right and as we toggle through them you're going to see all the clusters we talked about wide zone center flexible spot small medium large expand flexible spot and wide so it's essentially applying tracking if you're an autofocus continuous to that focusing cluster just come back here pretty good so that is the where the camera is focusing its focusing clusters as well as how to position them so a very common question is how do we do back button focusing we want to remove focus from the halfway shutter button depression that's done by coming into the menu run first read tab page six turn this to off that's going to remove the autofocus from the halfway shutter button depression and with then we would need to designate this guy to be our autofocus we don't have a lot of real estate in terms of custom buttons and things of that nature so you know it really is going to come down to personal preference and what you want what auto focus on there it is so once it's set up that like this now we are focusing with this back button we get focus and we can fire away some people will ask why why would you want to do this this allows us to control specifically when auto focus is engaged and when we lift our thumb up its disengaged which means no matter where our focusing square is when we push it halfway down on its way to the shutter the camera will not refocus and sports photographers like to do it to recompose and things of that nature so that's how we set up back button focus if we wanted to change this to something else we can do that edit to this would come back in to page six if you forget that you've done this which I've done that before likewise why is my shutter button not working so let's talk about face and eye detection those are two different things I'm gonna bump up the ISO cuz we notice the shutter speed gets real it gets low at certain focal lengths look what's happening we get this flashing see how it's turned off that's warning you that the image stabilization probably isn't gonna be enough to stabilize so if you ever see that flashing that's what's going on just turn that off for now so what's going on here is we see this box around our models face gorgeous model showed up to help us out this is face detection being turned on within the focusing cluster we are using so let me explain what that means focusing square is over here if I push a shutter button halfway down the focusing has the preference over here if the focusing square and the face detection matched up now it's focusing on my eye it's the technique and I'll talk about that in a second so keep this in mind this is a very powerful technique in video modes I'm going to demonstrate this real quick so if I come over to the video mode what I'm going to do is there's my face detection and I'm going to turn on do this all the time when I'm shooting videos for YouTube is I'll pick a zone for the camera to look for a face so any faces or anything over here is going to be disregarded and so this continual auto focus is going to it so I can what can be walking around I could be talking and if you're an auto focus continuous the camera is going to do an amazing job of tracking it's as good as canons dual pixel autofocus it's that good it's just amazing so for video this is very powerful for still shooting very powerful come all the way over we have the zone I push the shutter button halfway down and it's jumping in to eye detection having said that default when you get the camera if you just want to go with eye detection push the center button in your multi selector wheel and that is the default control for eye detection sony revolutionized portrait photography and my opinion for wedding photographers and portrait photographers with this introduction of eye detection back in the day when I shot weddings we would have to you know choose a focusing square like a single square basically and we would have to move it over our subject we have to get a focus lock and if we wanted to recompose if it was that wide apertures we would be pulling them out of focus then we want the eyes to be very sharp so what sony did is they basically invented this eye detection stuff where we get this amazing precise accurate fast jumps on to it and it's allowing photographers to have a higher number of keepers and to get through their workflow faster it's great everybody else is trying to catch up right now Canon Nikon Fugees getting pretty close everybody else is trying to get high detection Sony is the best right now so there's a couple important notes about this you can turn off face detection you don't see it out here but if we come into our black function menu I'm going to be throwing a lot of information at you there it is that is referred to as face priority in autofocus if we turn this off and we come back out you notice that the face detection box is now gone if we are far away from our subject far away enough let me show you what happens when we turn it back on so red tab page six second item we've turned off there it is face priority and AF we're gonna turn it back on so when I push the eye detection in wow it's just super precise I'm very impressed yeah Sony's killing it right now I did some focusing tests and you won't see this on any other camera how precise that is I could shoot from there so at some point it's not going to be able to get an eye detection we can come into our face and ice AF set we can determine whether we want it to be the right eye or the left eye depending on how you're shooting Auto will allow the camera to choose this frame is the gray frame that we saw you can turn it on or off it's a bunch of information on face detection some of you may be asking or wondering if there's a way to add this to our FM menu I think this bottom right hand corner is a pretty good candidate because it's our shooting mode right we know what that is on the mode dial so if we come in to our purple tab let's set this up real quick function menu set and we're looking for face priority in AF here it is right here we could did you see the other one we could do we could do which I we wanted left or right I select there it is so when we come back out to our shooting mode FN there's our face detection so now we have a quick easy way to turn it on or off so keep in mind that when you have face detection turned on if you're focusing cluster or square isn't matched up on it it's going to prioritize to the square when there is overlap it's going to prioritize to face or eye detection if you have it turned on so I need to demonstrate a few other focusing techniques specifically manual focusing so I'm going to turn this off for now so let's go into our manual focusing mode and let me demonstrate some of these other tools that we can find in our menu so we're gonna go to our read tab here it is there's a bunch of great tools in here focus magnifier does exactly what it says it's going to allow us to magnify in pushing the set button it goes to almost 6 and then to almost 12 this could be something you can add to your function menu if it's something you use a lot I think it's very handy the focus magnify time so when we punched in like that you want it to be for 2 seconds 5 seconds or no limit anytime we punch in like that the initial focus magnification could be one or we can start with five by nine there's some other magnifying tools we'll talk about here auto focus in focus magnification it's turned on wants us to be on let's turn this guy on a single let's demonstrate this focus magnifier focusing there it is so it allows us to focus in a close magnification manual focus assist when this is turned on it basically means that when we use our manual focusing ring it's going to punch in so here there it is it allows us to use the focusing ring do you guys see what I did there this af/mf button tell you what that is in just a second and then we also have our peeking display peeking is a color overlay I like red because it's really easy to see turn it on and we'll turn it on high to make this there it is nice and bright so if we come in even in our zoom we can see the peaking so if you want to get precise focusing lock zoom in use peaking peaking works pretty well but don't rely on it too much see it's like a little bit off right here a little bit more precise there it's essentially looking for an area of contrast and it's telling you where that is but that's not always where the most you know sharp focuses it's a good tool a lot of people like to use it on medium or low it's not quite as intense but let me put something out here real quick so I have a pretty small aperture at 5.6 saying that it can get both of them in focus and this is one challenge that if you have your focus magnify assist tool on it's always going to punch in so there are times you're gonna want to turn it off and now we do not punch in and we can see our target is in focus but our face model is not our face model is more in focus very powerful tool for videographers if you want to see where your camera is focusing basically but it takes some some time to learn all these tools and to get used to turning things on and off things of that nature peaking is a fantastic tool I'm going to turn it off for now remember it works in manual focus only and it also works on the zoom so let's talk about this little guy that I had pressed here by default this is going to be auto focus to manual focus if you want to jump quickly to manual focus you would push this now I'm in manual focus now I'm an auto focus now I'm in manual focus and that's the idea of it let's just turn these on so we can see auto focus manual focus this back button is going to be used depending on what your preference is if you're a sports shooter you're probably gonna have this four back button focusing if you are a portrait photographer like me you may be doing this you may have it set up to something else you're gonna probably end up customizing this in some way and there is a little problem there are a few problems that have to point out so let's talk about some of the problems you're going to be facing for example as a sports shooter if you are looking through the viewfinder how are you going to change your focusing squares there's not a joystick and when we push in on our directional pad in the default modes it's going to be accessing different menu things we can't we don't have direct access to moving the square around so there's a couple things we can do in the menu in the yellow tab page 3 we have this touch operation so this basically touch operation is talking about the back monitor if we turn this off nothing's happening I think it's a great feature I wouldn't recommend turning it off unless there's a problem so we have this feature called touch panel touch pad the touch panel and the touch pad are both this back monitor depending on whether or not you are looking through the viewfinder when you are looking through the viewfinder it is referred to as the pad when you have it on the main monitor it's referred to as the panel so when this is turned to panel and pad that means this touch monitor is active whether you're looking through the viewfinder or just looking on the back monitor if you turn it to touch panel only what that means is only when this monitor is on it is active when you look through the viewfinder it will not work and then we have the touch pad only meaning that we look through the viewfinder then this becomes active the reason why I go through the trouble to explain this is because if you are ayuh dominant meaning your right eye is here and your nose is just off to the left of the camera and your nose isn't bumping into the monitor we can use this to position our focusing squares it's very fast it's very effective so as you're looking through the viewfinder your right thumb is going to come in it's a natural position you can touch and drag very quickly and we can designate the area that is active by coming in we can make it active in the vertical orientation as well or you can turn it off if you want we can talk about the relative or the absolute position I'd like the absolute position a little bit more I think it's faster this is going to come down to preference yeah let's turn it on for now and we can also choose the active area of the screen what part of the touchpad is active as you are looking through the viewfinder again if you're a right eye dominant this isn't gonna be a problem you can as long as your nose isn't touching the screen you might want to go right 1/2 right quarter right upper right lower just depends on what part of this monitor you want to make active and they designate it with this black box or the clear box the whole screen that's the part that's going to be active if I was a right eye dominant shooter I probably go with lower right or half right quarter right something like that unfortunately I am NOT a red eyed shooter and this opens a huge can of worms for everybody who is left eye dominant I did a poll and about 1/3 of photographers naturally or left eye dominant so when your left eye is here what this means is your nose is going to be here touching the monitor so as your nose is touching the monitor even if you have the right part here active I can't tell you how many times my nose will hit part of it it'll change the focusing square so left eye shooters are now kind of stuck with this problem there's a few things we can do about it one you could shoot right eye if you're willing to change it's very uncomfortable at first but it can be done and then go right eye shooting right touchpad the other thing you can do is shoot left eye and use your left thumb to change the focusing square in this left corner if your nose is over here the problem with this is is it changes how you hold the camera and with very heavy lenses is this not natural shooting unless you're on a tripod so I don't recommend that either another option is to turn this off as you're looking through the viewfinder and as a left eye shooter this is what I do and I know that's bad news that just makes my life easier then I can turn this off my nose can touch the monitor while I'm shooting and it just doesn't matter so my personal setting is panel only in this way my nose is not screwing things up I know this sounds like a silly discussion right now but just wait until you start shooting with this pad active and your square is going around everywhere this brings up another problem which I'm going to give you a solution for right now is that how do you change your focusing squares if this is turned off you can't come over here and just start pushing on the directional you know multi selector so there has to be a way to activate this to turn it into a way that we can move the focusing square around and this is referred to as the focusing standard the problem with this is it's a custom control and we have to choose where to put it my advice if you are a left eyed shooter is to put it on your c2 which is your garbage can icon now your c2 is your white balance right so the suggestion that I would make is change your white balance in your function menu there it is so anytime you need it you can push FN and go because changing your focusing squares is going to be happening a lot more than changing your white balance in terms of the directional pad so this is the way you should do it we're going to come into the menu this is the solution that I would suggest you're not locked into I think this is the easiest way to get around it oh we're going to go to custom key and this allows us to customize the different buttons that we have access to so the af/mf toggle is this button right here if we flip this down a e-l hold is right here it's a second one and we have our white balance and some of the other custom keys that we have access to when we're shooting is it I ought o focus right here there were drive modes ISO exposure compensation I think those are all good focusing modes is at c1 near the front I think that's also a good place for it and we have a focus hold on certain lenses so for me personally I think this is where we should change it you're going to come into white balance and we're looking for something that says focus standard here somewhere there it is focus standard means that we're telling the camera we're going to use the multi selector as a focus changer so now when we push the c2 button we can push on the directional pad or this multi selector and move it around this is going to allow left eye shooters to shoot in there trol style they can change the focusing squares by pressing the garbage can icon and using the directional pad it's either that or making this active and bumping it with your nose so one of those two things should work out for you and I hope that helps so let's talk about the video shooting settings just a little bit I'm in manual mode look at this size of my image over here and as I flip it over to video you can see that it punches in so the crop factor for video is going to be a little different depending on how many frames per second you're shooting at so what's happening for video mode is we're getting a different aspect ratio sixteen by nine and we're getting a full pixel for pixel readout so at 24 frames per second on 4k it's a full sensor readout try to remember how big that images and we're going to come into video recording and we're going to oh it's yeah super 35 yeah aps-c sensor that that should be about right let's go to 30 frames per second watch what happens see how it gets more punched in so if I come back out to the stills mode and we come back into video mode it's far more punched in and if this is anything like other sony a6000 series cameras it's about a 1.9 crop factor and it's using more of a central part of the sensor about 13 megapixels so if you're shooting 4k at 30 frames per second keep that in mind it's a great quality video there's no line skipping or pixel binning which means this data isn't being thrown away it's all sampled and it's resized in the processor that's why some of the earlier a6000 cameras were overheating there's a lot of processing going on but your resolutions you're going to have access to them in the purple tab record setting I'm a big fan of 4k but if you don't want 4k we have HD settings and come in here and select that one option that you are going to love is that when we're shooting HD we have the ability to work record 120 frames per second so when you play this back in regular speed is going to appear to be slow motion so if you're doing any if you're doing serious video shooting great we spend a lot of time in these these menus here I like 4k most of the time that's just me 30 frames per second let's talk about some of the other features you're going to see in the video shooting mode we still have access to our focus in clusters I'm gonna go with a larger one and something I want to show you is how we can touch on the screen and change the position of that we're gonna go to auto focus continuous we're have a touchpad so very smooth I'm gonna move this closer towards the camera so you can see how good this is we can focus on this and focus on the face quick smooth accurate it's very nice if we were to turn on face detection it's off right now glad we assigned it over there turn it on she'll still work but when I'm standing in front of the camera talking with a Sony camera I use face detection all the time because it's very good it's very fast it's very accurate so this is how we can pull focus without needing any special equipment just touch on the monitor we're going to let it do the work something else I want to point out is these audio levels is we want to make sure second second page of the purple tab we can adjust the level of this if it's too loud we can turn it down just depending on what kind of environment you're in very important talking a little bit more about the menu section in just a second here this setting right here the movie setting let's get back to that page the exposure mode in my opinion most the time should be on manual this is how I like to shoot so we can dial in our shutter speed in our aperture on our own aperture priority sometimes if you're doing running and gunning type shooting very useful for certain video makers zoom out here most of the other techniques for video shooting I'm going to be demonstrating on the crash course there's different styles of shooting there's narrative that's like film there are documentary style interview style we have vlogging style there's running gunning style so there's a there's a few different techniques to understand and master when you're shooting video so let's get into the menu system and for the sake of time I'm going to be making a few recommendations there's probably less than 20% of the stuff in here are going to be the most important you are not going to use a huge amount of the options in here but I'm going to give you a quick overview and then on the full crash course I go into the comprehensive coverage of it and go into the philosophies of some of these settings things of that nature is far more in detail on the crash course so on the top and the menu systems are confusing even even now I've been shooting Sony for many years now five years and it's still confusing so the red tab is for stills mostly purple tab is for video mostly we have our network setting I'm going to show you how to connect to a smartphone and use the app you have playback we have our camera setup and we have a customizable menu so within each colored tab there are individual pages and we can see these on the bottom here of the screen also designated with what page were on divided by the total number of pages and you can see that on the bottom the icon with little mountain refers to a still and the icon with a filmstrip first to video and so if you see that feature this is saying this is for stills only or for film only depending on what we're looking at so some of these are kind of mixed up in different places and this is I think where a lot of the confusion comes in and you're also going to notice that we often get things grayed out it wants us to be in a certain mode for this to work so we're talking about the file format this is Rhett whether it's raw or JPEG we can shoot raw only JPEG and RAW or just JPEG if you're a pure beginner start off with JPEG when you have your JPEG selected we can determine the degree of compression whether it's extra fine fine or standard compression means that the processor is going to make the image smaller but it's going to lose some qualities some of this cannot be seen by the naked eye just depending on how good of a pixel people you are and what you're shooting in the beginning start off with extra fine the image size I recommend for the most case shoot on large 24 megapixels you can easily downsize if you need to after it's not so easy to take a smaller resolution and up size in aspect ratio I like three by two my dad loves to shoot sixteen by nine cinema aspect ratio my philosophy on this is you can always crop it out if you need to and if we want to change the panorama mode and we'll flip this over to the panorama mode now it's highlighted we can go standard we can go extra wide we can change the direction going into the right to the left up or down so that's the first page of the read tab long exposure noise reduction is something I recommend leaving on anything over a second is considered a long exposure it's going to allow the camera to clean up some of this same with high ISO noise reduction I recommend leaving this on normal higher ISO is get very grainy I think so knees do a pretty good job of cleaning up the JPEGs in camera sRGB most of us are going to be shooting on srgb if you're shooting for a magazine and you know what a doji Adobe RGB is you would select that lens compensation essentially this is the lenses communicating with the camera body to clean up certain problems such as chromatic aberration or distortion maybe even getting in the quarters things of that nature these are all set to auto we can turn them off we don't want that cleanup occurring page three so auto mode and scene selection it wants us to turn to the auto mode to get access to this and it's giving us the option to choose between intelligent auto or superior auto I don't recommend my students use these so I tell them not to in the same mode if we rotate over there the scene button we can come in and select the different scene modes from the menu superior Auto Image extract works with the superior auto mode it's basically asking whether you want it to select and save one image auto or save all of them so you know that again this isn't something I would recommend drive mode we've seen this these are the drive modes we talked about earlier bracketing settings we can come in here and choose the different bracketing talked about that in the function menu we can also choose the order that our bracket settings are working so even exposure under exposure over exposure or under even over interval shooting function this is an intervalometer built into our camera it's very nice back in the day we had to use an app to do this we can come in and turn this on I'll be demonstrating how to use this down at a Sunset Beach shoot on the crash course basically we can set a start time set the interval the number of shots tracking we can have silent shooting and basically we're programming the camera to start shooting on its own we can take those images and put them together it's a good great feature to have built into the camera page for we talked about recall and memory register custom shoots set this is a little confusing essentially we have three custom holds that mean that when we push a certain button down so if we wanted manual exposure with an aperture of f8 or maybe a wide aperture f2 point eight we can come in we could designate the drive you exposure compensate all these settings we can dial in specifically and hit register so that saved all of those specific settings to custom hold one the idea on this is that of course you would know because you're a pure beginner that this is something you need to do over here on page 8 of the purple tab is that now we can designate that custom hold to a custom key and the idea is if we came in here we should find it oh there it is recall custom hold one there it goes so if I was to select this I would be making this button here if I push in hold it down remember those settings for a brief moment until I lifted my thumb off that button so it's a brief temporary switch over to a memory position that we can designate all the way here back on page five four and that's how it works that's the idea of it page five we can talk about the focusing modes we've already talked about this we can come in and select them from the menu in auto focus single what do you want to do first you want it to focus or do you want it to release a lot of this is preference focus area we've already demonstrated how to select this from the shooting mode we can limit which of our focusing clusters will appear if there's too many and you're feeling overwhelmed we can come in here and turn some of those off this is something I kinda like because it allows us to switch from vertical and horizontal and it remembers the focusing cluster that we had so you want the point or a point and an area I think it's pretty handy but again this could be personal preference as as you're shooting portrait you know horizontal you might flip it up and you want those squares to say it's stay where they were last time auto focus illuminator if it's very dark will have this auto focus assist lamp come on we talked about face and eye detection in the focusing lesson back button focus we talked about turn this off to make it work pre auto focus is something actually recommend turning off if you leave it on the camera is going to be focusing but or you even push a shutter button down I think it puts a drain on the battery and sometimes it's annoying I start AF and it's confusing this has to do with adapting a mount lenses to our body so let's not worry about this auto focus area registration if we turn this on it's going to allow us to register a custom focusing area if we press and hold the FN button we'd have to assign that to a custom key I'm going to turn this off for now we have faced registrations there's some micro adjusting there's a bunch of cool features in here if you really want to get into it we have our ISO metering face priority and multi metering if we turn this on it's going to give facial features a priority in the multimeter a mode we have spot metering we have our exposure steps all these are good stuff auto exposure lock with halfway shutter button depression I like this so I leave it on on or auto exposure standard adjust I wouldn't mess with this if you're a brand new shooter intermediate photographer we're gonna be talking about flash on the crash course we spend a good 30 or 40 minutes crash course on how to use it we do have a built in flash it's not very big this little teeny guy that pops up and there are some ways to control the power of it when we come into FN so if we pop that flash up come into FN flash exposure compensation is right here so if we wanted to to increase the power of the flash we could increase it here want to turn it down it's not a bit very big flash but if you have nothing else it can save you in certain situations I'll be demonstrating this on the crash course flash exposure compensation can be adjusted here when we change exposure compensation do we want it to apply to both ambient and the strobe or just ambient light only there is a really good setup for wireless flash I'll be making a recommendation on the crash course redeye reduction it's going to fire a pre flash to dilate the pupil of your subject I want to turn that on page 11 is most of the stuff we talked about in the beginning we can change our white balance from here we can change the priority of our white balance there's ambient and white and white balance if you're if you're using auto white balance we have our derange optimizer auto HDR we have this these are very similar to what we chose in the beginning something that's different here is we have HDR mode which allows us to determine how many stops in that mode we want to take doing some demonstrations with that on the full crash course our creative styles in the beginning stick with standard but if you wanted to play with these after you get a hang of things basically get some options here to tweak the contrast saturation in the sharpness and so some people start playing with this to do things in camera videographers will play with this they'll turn down the contrast have turned out the saturation because they're going to be grading things of that nature a lot of these have some presets in there you know in terms of more saturation or better flesh tones there's so many of them I mean it's got to be like twelve of them at least in the beginning stick with standard we also have the picture effects most of these are not serious tools they're kind of fun they applied funky filters to your pictures there's a ton of tons of them options within them I don't use them ever picture profiles again this a lot of this has to do with video shooting where we can come and pick these predetermined standards for example that have s log which basically capture a greater dynamic range and this you could spend an hour or two talking about all the settings in here and there are some people who do it they actually come in and they'll they'll go through everything on the internet there's certain recipes that people like you can really dot no other camera company gets into this much detail for video shooting as Sony but for the beginning and intermediate photographer I'm gonna tell you in the beginning don't worry about it turn them off for now we have a soft skin effect if you wanted to apply it we also have auto white balance lock when the shutter button is either half way down or continuously shooting some of these you know I've never seen these we talked about most of these in the focusing lessons and we also have the ability to register faces this is something Sony cameras have done for a while so if your child was at a party and you wanted a camera to focus on only your child's face the idea is you could register the face and the camera would be looking for it Smile Shutter means that the camera is looking for the moment of smiling before firing Auto object framing is an automatic cropping feature I don't really recommend this you can do it in post new problem soft portrait timer if we take the monitor and flip it up facing the direction of lens and push your shutter button if this is turned on it's a three second timer and then order to the purple tab so we're going to rotate over to the movie mode so we get access to a lot of these guys so we've talked about a resolution 4k HD usually I'm on 4k or HD and never use the AVC HD it's a really low quality video we were frames per second we'll be spending quite a bit of time talking on the video recording settings so what are these numbers here 100 M that's the data rate 100 megabits per second there's 8 megabits per megabyte so if you do the math about 12 or 13 megabytes per second so it's a frame rate and then a data rate 24 is saying it's using the entire sensor q settings we have a dial on our mode dial for s and Q and so if we flip that over we're going to be given access to the s and Q menu setting up here I'm more of a manual prior manual exposure setting I like to dial it in so the idea on s in Q is that if you come into the settings you can determine what you're going to play it back at and your frames per second so if we shoot at 120 frames per second at 30 P we record an s and Q mode we should be able to play it back and see it four times more slow on the other hand if we shoot it one frame per second you know almost like a time-lapse movie and then play it back it's going to playback super super fast so this is the s and Q mode position allows us to designate whether we wanted to play back slow or fast depending on the playback frames per second in the frame rate that we're shooting in proxy recording give instructions to the camera to make separate proxy files they're smaller and videographers who do a lot of editing prefer proxy files and they edit the proxy files which are smaller which give the instructions to edit the full resolution images it's a way to save you know processing speed and power on computers very common if you're beginning videographer don't worry about it right now we can adjust the drive speed and it's tracking sensitivity of our video if you notice when I was doing the rack zoom is it wasn't the fastest we could speed that up if we wanted to we can make it more responsive if we wanted to with these options in here Auto slow shutter I would actually recommend turning this off it's going to give the camera permission to use a slower shutter speed when it's you're recording videos and it's dark we have our initial focus magnification power we talked about audio recording what that on in the levels level display I'm definitely a fan of that wind noise reduction have never successfully noticed a significant difference we can put dead cats on our microphones to help limit wind noise Marv or display if we turn this on it's going to allow us to see certain aspect ratios if we wanted to things of that nature we can turn on these overlays guide frames things of that nature if you wanted to see that as you're shooting video we can start and stop video recording with a shutter button if this is turned on so a lot of these are just kind of preference ting so as we go to page 4 you can see that it's changed to shutter and steady shot we have silent shooting which is completely quiet uses an electronic shutter we have an electronic front curtain shutter I think the default is this turned on so what's happening is we're only getting the second shutter to close the exposure listen one-click turn this off to clicks we hear the opening of the first shutter and then the closing of the second shutter we can designate whether to release without a lens or without a card if you're adapting a lens over an on Sony lens maybe an old lens you would want this on steady shot definitely recommend leaving that turned on it's our stabilization page 5 we have some zoom settings the one you might be interested in is the Clear Image Zoom we have a 16 to 50 lens and so when we have optical zoom only you can see we get this stops at 50 there's a digital zoom which is a digital magnification it's usually pretty terrible grainy and the Clear Image Zoom is proprietary technology from Sony I guess it makes sense to turn it on if I mean as long as you know what you're doing when you zoom in so once you get over fifty millimeters you get this focused magnify we're at a hundred millimeters using this clear image zoom technology that Sony uses to clean up the image I'm not even really sure how it works but it's an interesting feature they claim that it's going to allow you to zoom in without losing any resolution so when we push up on the Display button we were talking through all those different screens this is asking which of those screens do you want to see so when we're looking in the viewfinder or in the monitor so we talked about the monitor we have all these different displays which ones you want to show it's basically it do the same for the viewfinder quite as many but we can control the types of information that are being shown finder monitor this is a very handy feature if you're if you use Gimbels Auto means the sensor is going to turn it off we can go viewfinder only or if we just wanted to see the back monitor it's a front and gimbal switch doesn't turn off a bit on auto for now so this is the viewfinder frame rate for still shooting do you want to be standard or do you want it to be a high-speed frame rate refresh zebras allow us to see when the image is starting to be overexposed let's just turn this up to let's turn it up to 100 so the zebra warning this if I bump up my ISO will see them as these marching ants basically saying at this setting which is a hundred this is going to be pure white anything with these diagonals is going to be overexposed with that particular setting pretty handy for video shooting I think and typically people will turn them down so they kick in earlier so when we're at 95 percent of clipping out we would see that as a warning we can turn on different grids as we're shooting who wanted to the exposure set guide when we change our exposure settings you say we get this magnified view we don't want that and I can come in turn that off now we're just sticking with a regular view so in dark studios if we turn this off the cameras going to brighten it up it's going to last to see what we're doing it's going to loss to focus we're using strobes and the camera may not know that so that's the only time I would recommend turning it off auto image review if you wanted to playback we have two five and ten seconds and then we get into some of the custom keys depending on whether we're taking stills video or in playback so we have some customization ability to pending on these buttons we talked a little bit about it we didn't have a lot of real estate for stills but in video we can customize a lot of these same keys as well right now it's following the stills we wanted to change that you get 19 pages of options so it feels like for video shooting we have a lot more flexibility and you can just come in and choose literally anything that you want based on your preference and style of shooting we have the directional pad up-down left-right the center button right now it's all following the stills so that's nice and then when we have playback we're just playing an image right now the FN button will send to the smartphone and then we have the c1 button that we can also customize if we wanted to only six pages of stuff in here well that's the playback in the blue tab but we haven't really talked about pretty basic stuff in there function menu we've covered how to customize this and you will after some time the my dial settings allow us to customize the rotating dials just as we did with the buttons on the red tab the way it works is we come in we designate a feature that we want what it whatever it is auto record levels for example we come back out we could do it for both the control dial and the control wheel then we would come out come into a dial specifically this would here you can come into the drive mode for example and we would look for the my dial setting that we set up it seems like a lot of trouble to go through toggle my dial one two and three there they are and so the idea is that this would allow some more customization if we wanted to - the dials instead of buttons so the dial on the wheel settings I think they're set up fine this typically has to do with the manual mode so if you remember in the manual mode we dial in the aperture with our main dial and then with a rotating dial did the shutter speed we can switch that if we wanted to we can change how the directions are normal or reversed if we wanted to so when we're talking about exposure compensation the way I demonstrate it I think is pretty good if you want a direct exposure compensation control without pushing down we can just set this up to be the wheel I think it's better if we have this to off and then push down we have what happens when we touch on the screen do you want it to trigger the shutter do you want it to track I like the focus the video record button do you always want it to record video or only in the movie mode we can lock certain dowels that are down on our wheel for wanted to audio signals which is the beep function so that's a purple tab so between the the red tab and the purple tab that's most of the stuff that's most of our settings in here we're gonna be talking about the Wi-Fi lesson in the playback menu a lot of this is pretty straightforward we can protect images multiple images all of the date we can cancel it the idea is that you come and come in here and we press the set button and it would mark it to protect it and if you were to erase the memory card with the erase feature it would be protected that will not protect you from a reformatting just keep that in mind we can rotate images we can delete images including multiple images scrolling through and selecting them if we wanted to we can assign ratings that would be respected in Lightroom or Photoshop one to five stars you can see right up there a lot of this stuff I don't use we can have a rating set for a custom key we can specify printing I just say good get the memory card reader we can zoom in on images you can do the staring playback if you just play and hit the zoom button which is designated right here and change the initial mag vacation when we zoom in do you want it to be on the center or where our focusing square is currently selected so there's there's some other information in here the playback for the intervalometer the speed for the intervalometer we can do a slide show we have different view modes in terms of you want to see by date folder format for video give us gives us this calendar grid that we can scroll through if we wanted to go through by months and you can view our images probably been shooting on Monday the 4th of March that you would if you had it all a big memory card you could see all the different days that you shot on you could scroll this way we can navigate by date image do by video formats pretty crazy when we display our images for playback do you want to show 12 images or 30 images show you what this is referring to so here's 12 so you can get 30 I haven't even taken 30 images we can display it as a group on or off we display rotation but does just playback stuff the setup is pretty self-explanatory most of this in here is monitor brightness we can come in and change when we're on manual when we have it on sunny it's really just full power otherwise we can come in here and turn it up same with a viewfinder we can change the viewfinder color temperature through here Galla display assist essentially if we're shooting in a certain s log for example the display assist will show us a preview of what it should look like after it's graded we have volume settings for the beep tile menu allows us to break the menu down into thumbnail images if this will make your life easier maybe for some people it will I don't want a huge fan the mode dial guide if we change if we turn this on and change our modes we get some prompts there it is not a huge fan delete confirmation so when we press the garbage can icon do you want it to be on castle first or do you want it to be on delete first so you don't actually accidentally bump the delete button the display quality should be high or standard we have some power saving features I've turned mine to 30 minutes because I'm teaching right now probably beyond 5 and I'm shooting auto power off temperature so if you get if you're shooting outdoors and the camera is getting hot it'll power off and we can basically turn this to high and it would raise the temperature you sure you want to do this sure we have our NTSC pal selector obviously I'm an NTSC I don't want to change it but if you were you could we can clean the sensor by entering to the sensor cleaning mode here it goes it's going to vibrate a little filter that hangs over the sensor kicks off any dust I'm going to demonstrate on the crash course how to physically clean your sensor touch operation panel pad pad settings we talked about all this if we were selling the camera in a store we turn on the demo mode timecode settings so for video recording we had all kinds of timecode options if we wanted to change some of these a couple of these last settings before we get into the custom menu is we have the ability to turn on a remote control just wanted to have that option lots of HDMI settings I have a ninja five that I'll be demonstrating on the crash course how to use it as an external recorder we get higher chroma subsampling 8-bit four to two and so we can control things like the resolution and then auto framerate if it's whether it's displaying information if you want it clean we can turn it off just record timecode output tons of options control from the HDMI recorder we have our 4k output selection setting our USB connection settings so if you were going to connect to a smart phone just for storage or if you wanted to turn on our power supply so you can charge your battery in your camera through a USB power battery pack very cool you should have gotten a little USB plug and adapter a 6400 doesn't come with a battery charger which is kind of interesting so the idea is that you charge it in your camera I'll be making some recommendations in the accessories cheap charger you - extra batteries it's like 35 bucks these batteries are small you're going to go through them quickly and it's a pretty good investment of a PC remote settings language date and time set up the area we're in copyright information so we can write our copyright info turn this on and then we type in our name you could type in copyright information we can display them and those would be embedded to the exif metadata for images this one's very useful format memory card so once you have at least two copies preferably in separate places is when you should format your memory cards it's going to erase everything including protected images and so you should try to find a system that works for you I have a particular system when I come in from a shoot I download my images to an external hard drive and those images and video files are then sent to an assistant in a different state he copies them and he makes a backup I make a backup of what I have so there's literally four copies of everything we shoot in two different places so it's very hard for us to lose any videos or stills so the likelihood is that you don't have an assistant like me there are some options where you can download to a harddrive and back it up onto the cloud or you can back it up to another harddrive preferably somewhere else why because things happen is flooding sometimes there's damage theft and if those images are important to you you want to have a backup somewhere else but every time I put a new card or a car that's done into the camera a reformat it so file number would reset every time I put a new memory card in it series would continue from the last image you can change the three-digit name the first three letters at least we can select the file or the folder we're recording to I only have one in here right now we can create a new one we can change the name we can try to recover the image database if there's problems display media info is just showing you how much room you have left depending on the setting so I'm on a video standard HD this is 2 hours and 40 minutes if I was on a still mode I came in here display now it's showing me the total number of images so version will display the software that we have for both the camera body as well as the lens that we're shooting with we can then reset the settings if we wanted to so that's the bulk of the tabs the last one is the my menu setting very useful to add items that you often go through and one of them for me is formatting so I would select that I'm gonna add it to that location and so the idea on this is that we could come through and say we wanted to do file format we could add that to add it as you shoot you're going to find that there's only a handful of these that you're going to change often another one would be the focus magnifier very common I want that all the time I don't want to dig for it so when you're done press the menu we can sort these items move it down we can delete an item we can delete a page I'm going to leave everything we can add more items but the gist of it is is you essentially add what you want and you can see we have a second page now so on the first page we have everything I'm on a video mode which I can't see the file format but this allows us to have a favorites tab so that is a quick overview of the deep menu system we spend a lot more time on it on the crash course where we get into the philosophies of use in example situations pretty much cover everything on that and I hope you guys enjoyed it so let me give you a quick rundown on Sony's Play memory app you need to download it from the App Store I have an iPhone 10 obviously this is what it looks like it's called the PlayMemories app come in to the menu we're on the green tab first page control with smart phone and there's different ways you can set it to computer we can send images only we have airplane mode but this is the one you're gonna watch the most interesting control a smart smart phone is on if we had always connected I don't recommend that but let's turn the connection on so we can see what's going on and it gives us a QR code thing the thing that I like about this app is it's very easy to connect the problem is some of the navigation tools aren't exactly perfect so when you're using the PlayMemories app to shoot image is that our transfer to your phone will become accessible under the view whether this is a 2-megapixel file or full res for example we also have things like news and you'll notice we have this back stuff right so if we wanted to link GPS data we could do that wants us to turn the Bluetooth on so if you wanted to embed GPS data from your smartphone into the images we'd have to come in and turn our Bluetooth on there's a problem with this is that once we connect and we get into the shooting mode it's kind of tricky to leave so this is out this is the easiest way to do it you can also scan with near-field communication I haven't had success with that the QR code works really good so we're going okay that's going to turn the camera on you can see the crosshair and I'm gonna take this crosshair off and aim it at the QR code it's going to pair almost instantly it's very fast so I don't know if you guys can see that it's asking me if I want to join yes so here's the problem as soon as I connect it wants us to turn the Bluetooth off off and now we're in a shooting mode which is great we can come into the menu we see all these other settings we can display the settings here I am on a still shooting mode there are some great things about this for example the sixteen to fifty lens that I have on there we can actually zoom in and out with it when it works so we can zoom in there it goes oh it's cooperating you can also zoom out it's like slow a little bit we can change our white balance settings here they are amazing right drive mode single or continuous shooting we can choose a timer we can play images back solicitors take a picture there it goes very nice resized image has been saved to the phone we can play it back and I have images from like all the Sony cameras that I have on here we can toggle the information terms of the focal length the lens used lots of great stuff right so it seems like it's pretty good we can change our I so I'm on a manual shooting mode so we have standard ISO control use a faster shutter speed lots of really it's it's pretty responsive it's nice it's good some apps will let you focus on the touch screen can't do that here that's okay and when I flip over to video mode on the camera the smartphone responds we got our LED lights look at this so if we want to minimize that you got to think in terms of Hertz one sixtieth or one 125th of a second usually we'll eliminate that there it goes so if you see that weirdness see the banding you get you got to think in terms of the Hertz of the light so one one two five should mostly solve it one 250th should be pretty close nope so 125th yes and then one sixtieth should have minimal Danny good we can start and stop video recording remotely I've used this before when shooting certain videos and I'm in them and I want to frame them up we don't have a front-facing monitor we can even rotate a screen so here's the big problem at least at the time of this recording with this version of the app do you see a way to get back out to the main menu I cannot find it you never come into camera information so I cannot find that don't go swipe nope no is the limitation oh there it goes what happened and it takes him back into shooting mode okay so that's the problem with the app at the time of this recording is the navigation to get out to the menu to set up the GPS stuff to play back can't get there you can play images here so in any event that is a quick way to connect to the play memories app and some of the cool features in terms of remote shooting playback things of that nature downloading it to your smartphone really really awesome so there are some lens recommendations I need to give you about the a 6400 I think the 16 to 50 kit lens is a pretty good place to start and it's worth hanging on to even when you upgrade simply because it's very small and light you can use it on gimbals lots of general-purpose shooting you can do this at some point you're going to want a little bit more reach the 55 to 210 I've seen it all day long and eBay used for about a hundred and sixty or a hundred and seventy dollars those two lenses to start are going to be a good place you know if you're on a budget but at some point you're probably going to want to invest in glass that is a little bit sharper and has wider aperture that said keep in mind that Sony's II found has two versions one for aps-c cameras in one for full-frame cameras this is something that you're going to have to read in the fine print when purchasing a lens because we have a 50 millimeter 1.8 Fe full-frame and a 50 millimeter 1.8 OSS which is designed for aps-c we can take any PSC lenses and put them on full-frame camera bodies but the corners are going to be dark we can take full-frame lenses and put them on aps-c bodies and we can use them and shoot with them as we normally would so a lot of the advice that I give depends on whether or not you see yourself upgrading to a full-frame Sony sensor if you do and you know that's going to happen the 28 to 70 kit lens it's just under 400 hours that is a great general-purpose shooting lens if you want something with a wider aperture the most affordable option at the time of this recording is tamron's 28 275 2.8 it's about $900 and then we start get to the G master series which is the 16 to 35 2.8 the 24 to 70 2.8 70 to 200 2.8 and the 100 to 400 for sport shooting you're looking at just under $10,000 for all four of those you know so if money isn't a problem that's the cream of the crop other accessories you're definitely going to want to look at battery in the time of this recording we went through three of these just leaving the camera on to you know talk about the back of the camera this battery is made by a company called green extreme I found these on adorama two of them with an external charger for about $38 camera doesn't come usually with an external battery charger the ideas that you can plug it into USB port and charge with the battery in the camera and because you're going to be going through batteries so quick I think an external charger is a must-have that's the best value I've seen at the time of this recording the Sony batteries are like fifty five dollars each one of the limitations of the front-facing monitor is that we have a hot shoe mount here that we want to put an external microphone on and that would block the monitor so small rig has this nice side extension that moves it over to over by the shutter button I think that's a no-brainer investment as well and yes you are going to want an external microphone rode has a huge lineup I like the pro version the most that they have some lower end ones that are definitely going to be better than the built-in microphone very important investment is going to be a set of tripod legs you can get them with aluminum or carbon fiber legs I like the carbon fiber they're lighter I like a locking ball head it's tremendously versatile you can shoot portraits landscapes you can do video long exposures things of that nature it's really smart to have a good tripod in your arsenal Boggan Manfrotto has the be free and then there's another company called me photo if you do search for those two you're gonna see all kinds of different variations and combinations I'm not a huge fan of the Walmart tripods I mean you can make them work if you don't have anything else but the truth of the matter is they're flimsy and they break over time at some point you're going to want to get something but better in terms of flash photography we have this little teeny flash up here godox makes the TT 685 s that stands for Sony and I'll actually cover how to use that flash on the crash course it's like 30 or 40 minutes of introduction to strobe with your camera all that said I still believe the best investment you can make is right here your brain in the skill set knowledge the Sony a sixty-four hundred crash course is in production and will be ready in a couple weeks if you want to be notified again leave your name and your email address on my blog and we'll reach out to you as soon as it's ready thank you so much for joining me in this tutorial of the Sony a 64 hundred and I will see you on the crash course have a great day [Music] [Music]

Channel: Michael The Maven

Views: 566,064

Rating: 4.7979622 out of 5

Keywords: Sony A6400, Sony, A6400, A6400 Tutorial, A 6400 Training, Manual, Overview, PDF, Guide, A6100 Tutorial, A6100, Sony A6100, A6100 Training

Id: 1aaTKtj3NDA

Length: 134min 39sec (8079 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 09 2019