Canned Tuna Dewatering Press

[Music] so [Applause] um uh welcome back to ox tools i'm tom so what you just looked at was a a tuna water press and uh this was a request from my wife actually to find or build her something that would help her drain the water out of tunicans and she has some hand arthritis that prevents her from applying a lot of force to the can and it's actually difficult for and the side benefit or the side story on that is i really like tuna sandwiches so there was some motivation there so let's let's check this thing out and talk about it for a sec and then we'll go through uh the the build video for it so let's check it out so this is the the silly thing that's uh commercially available and uh you know a quick internet search showed that there really wasn't a lot of options out there um now there is a big kind of restaurant grade commercial quality gigantic thing you know for tins that are you know this size right uh you know and it's 600 bucks or whatever it is right this is like you know six dollars or eight bucks or whatever it was but it still requires this this this hand strength to uh to do it right so what we the design criteria was criteria uh was that we needed some kind of mechanical advantage right um either something with a toggle action a clamping action or whatever that would apply some force um beyond you know what you can do with your hands okay so you know after iterating a few times on some designs if you follow my instagram i put up some pictures of the uh kind of some of the preliminary stuff that i looked at i kind of settled on a you know a simple screw arrangement here like this and uh which is really easy to uh to to put considerable force with right in fact they can just keep going here um and um you know and so now she can you know set this up and let it drain and the dog loves the uh loves the liquid that comes off of that so uh he gets that and uh and i get tuna sandwiches and uh she gets uh no pain in her hands so uh let's uh let's go through building this thing and uh and see how we built it so here's the raw material for our um the actual uh pusher and this is uh what is this this is like one inch yeah nominally one inch thick starboard which is a uh kind of a hdpe they use for uh boat decks and uh things like that it's chemical resistant you can put in the dishwasher it's just kind of nice to work with and it's relatively cheap so you know i've roughed out the circle that's no big mystery and you know the question now is you know what diameter to make that right so this is about three and a quarter ide here but i don't want it to fit tight i want it to just kind of drop in there and leave some room you know when you puncture the lid and go around it right um what i want is when this this pushes in i want the lid to actually to kind of bend a little bit right which which flares it up a little bit and allows the tuna water to come out of there right so that's kind of the thinking there so i'm gonna make a little bit undersize here and i'm thinking nominally three inches looks pretty good because it'll be supported well by the uh the metal lid that comes out of that so let's make a little sketch and um and i'm just going to go with this thickness here so if this is normally our our blank here like that right so in one end we have the attachment to the uh um the screw right okay so let's just kind of draw that in like so okay and that's gonna excuse me that'll be a little ball swivel deal there okay and we'll show that in a bit here and uh okay so we're three inches there diameter 3.00 sorry it's upside down but i have to look at this and then the other thing i want to do too is i want it to push in the center first right to kind of scrunch in the center and push push things out towards the towards the uh the outside edge like that right so what i want is just a small angle on there like so something like that right you know maybe that's uh a hundred thousandths or an eighth of an inch out there or something like that and uh and then just to make it and then this will have a little radius on it okay just to soften that and then just so this isn't big and ugly and flat uh we'll kind of do the we'll do the same thing so it's gonna have this kind of uh flying saucer look to it okay i think it's what i want there you know this is all kind of subjective right so and then let's uh kind of uh eliminate that and then i'll figure out what that angle is um this little oops mr wizard come on that's not that i'll figure out what this little angle is here in a minute okay all right so let's go get over in the lathe and then let's make a disc out of this and then and then you know i want a little bit of cylindrical part on here still so that i can hold on to it i don't want to create a machining problem for myself there so there it is right side up all right so first first step is we're just going to um we'll just mark the center on here and then uh we're just gonna um pop a little center in that and uh just to help us hold that thing [Applause] so this stuff machines like like cream cheese so it's kind of nice you can use a woodworking tools on it routers that kind of stuff and uh uh it's pretty nice all right so we got a little backing plate in here that we're gonna put that disc up against and it's got some tape on it i'm just gonna go ahead and go ahead and face it off so i got a nice flat flat surface to work with [Music] [Music] you know that makes it all nice and perpendicular there [Music] [Music] actual surface finish doesn't really matter okay that's pretty good so just for um for traction here we're just gonna put a couple of stripes of double back tape on there to help us drive that get those to stick real good so this is a permacel or now i think it's nitto uh makes this stuff and uh um this is one of the better um you know it's expensive too actually uh better double back tapes around and it stands up to coolant reasonably well which is one of its one of its strong suits and it is a little bit of a pain to get the backing off my so usually what i do is just kind of poke through the backing okay let's say you get a good start there i kind of poke through the backing and then lift it up there like that so and then so you know let's get your fingers so if your fingers touch it you know you you kind of um destroy some of its bonding uh power with your oily your oily skin all right so let's get ready to stick our disc on here all right let's get close and then what i like to do is just get this get that off and then what i do is uh initially i'll i'll hold it against the center like that oops let's make sure that's it's clean and then try to keep it parallel okay and then give it a little a little squeeze there all right and then kind of tap it in now it's it's stuck pretty good but uh for machining purposes um let's see is that three inches what is that yeah it's three i don't know oh you know what i can use a small end here so so what i'll do now is i want to put a kind of a larger diameter pusher block right you know to push on a larger to push on a larger radius you have very little influence right at the center right you know from a torque standpoint so if you have something touching out a little further it uh it's just a little sturdier setup and then i'll give the tail stock a pretty good pretty good gronk and then re-seat okay that should be fine for driving that thing let's zero the dro i'm gonna zero it on the uh the bottom here actually so um i know when i'm when i'm close there oops all right so we're well oversized right now and uh so we'll take a measurement and then okay okay [Music] oh yeah that's always fun you know if you're if you're not careful you can clean out your whole chip pan in a in a few milliseconds if you're not uh paying attention there all right so we're gonna swivel the compound around a little bit so it's zero and we're going to make a 20 degree cut and what i'm gonna do is because i'm exceedingly lazy and i don't feel like swiveling it all the way around right and screwing around i'm gonna run the lathe in reverse and i'm gonna use this boring bar to kind of cut on the uh on the back side so it's a light cut so i'm not particularly worried about it and uh let's get up in position so we're gonna run this way which will allow the tool to cut and then we'll just feed in with the uh let's see let's get some travel on the compound there let's see how that's gonna work there hopefully it doesn't fly out that's the danger like i said this stuff cuts like cream cheese so let's uh prevent that same problem again let's see what we got here okay that's about an in a little over an inch um yeah i think i want a little more than that okay so we're going to drill our our ball retainer hole now and i want to drill to a certain depth here from the tip of the drill so what i've done is i have a a device that i can couple the tail stock to the uh to the carriage right so um and you know i just call it a trailer hitch or whatever so what i'm gonna do is um i'm just gonna use the dro on the carriage right to help me drill this thing to the uh to the depth that i want to drill it to okay i hope that makes sense and i'll show you the little trailer hitch thing in a second here so that's pretty much zero so let's zero the dro and then we're just gonna [Music] go in like so to the prescribed depth and then we'll go in with our tool [Music] okay well that should be pretty close to 350 deep yeah it looks about right okay and then i have a radius tool that we're gonna reach in there with and uh cut the uh the ball seat in that all right so again a nice tight close-up here so here's our here's our radius tool here right and it's relieved on this side so what we need to do is we have to calibrate the uh the quadrant here of the this hemis it's going to cut a hemispherical cavity or a spherical cavity i should say so that's one quadrant of the circle and then this is the other quadrant of the circle in fact you can see a little center line on there i think maybe i can see i can see it i don't know if you can um and so i want to calibrate the z there and then i calibrate the x here right so that i can go inside this hole and and then open up behind this front edge here so what i'm doing is i'm creating a retention lip on that front edge of the hole so i know what the diameter of the hole is okay so it's like 484 uh diameter right so what i'm gonna do [Music] i'm going to use that to calibrate my tool very carefully and gingerly i want to go in there i don't want to cut any uh i just want to go until it's actually hard to see with all the sunlight in [Music] here this one just barely scraped it getting close okay there just touched it yep okay so i'm gonna back out without it moving anything i'm gonna calibrate my x [Music] okay and then now what i want to do is i want to calibrate the z which is pretty easy actually you know what i'm gonna i'm just gonna use this tool to face it i'll just face a teeny bit off okay and that's zero now all right so let me take the backlash out okay i'm smaller than my diameter i'm gonna be pretty close all right now i'm gonna come in sure looks like it's gonna cut doesn't it [Music] all right so you know what i need to check my number i don't want to bozo this all right double check my number so i'm gonna so just so i can verbally tell you well it's so i can pay attention when i'm working here i'm gonna go in 325 and then i'm going to come out until i see half inch diameter or maybe a thou or two more um for that cavity and that should be what we want so let's let's do that all right so i'm going in 325 25 okay and i'm gonna come out yep and it's cutting all right there's half inch i'm going to go let's go 502 all right now i'm going to back off my diameter and i should be able to just come out yep now i did everything right let's take a look in there and see how it looks oh yeah it looks like a spherical thingy in there it's a little bit hard to see so we're gonna check it with this and that's the idea is it shouldn't there we go and that's what i want it's retained but it can it can waggle around right yeah i probably could have gone to five inch half inch or whatever okay and then i can i can still pop it out for cleaning and stuff so so basically this the ball is displacing the the springy material to go in there as it's a snap fit okay cool all right that works all right and you know when you're doing this kind of stuff in the lathe and you're pulling real hard make sure there's not a not a sharp tool bit behind you and how do i know that this is sometimes the the challenging part is this this permacel sticks so well that um sometimes it can be a little tricky to uh to get off without harming your part and that was one of the reasons you know i put two stripes with a space between them because what that does is that leaves a you know a pretty small channel but it is a channel in between the two stripes of tape as you can see i'm i'm smacking it pretty good so patience is your friend let's just put it that way just let that sit for a bit actually you know what i have a hole all the way through that's pretty good size so i should be able to just kind of press that off so let me let me just do that instead of putting around with this here all right suitable uh suitable deal there let's give it a little there we go a little english there all right oh yeah all right so we'll do the second side which is a slightly different angle and uh bob's your uncle so this is just a locating feature i'm going to weld the ball to um this uh i'm gonna weld the ball to this rod here okay that'll work yeah so i'm just gonna i'll drill a little hole into this and then that'll be kind of self fixturing and make it like super super duper easy to uh well that little puppy on there smack champ right this on here what i want to do is get that shoulder [Music] that'll work and then i'll probably just crack that one a little bit that's works good for that [Applause] um i'm just going to go to the bottom of that center [Music] that's plenty deep and then i'm gonna face a little flat on [Music] there that's just to interface with that shoulder so uh the weld is tighter always check your work before you take it out of the uh out of the machine beep okay so and you can see there that little interface it's a nice little spot to put a put a little weld there so okay all right let's use now it'll probably fall in the chip pan so here's our strainer uh piece and um you know a lot of people don't think you can cut stainless on a vertical bandsaw it's just not true if you have the right pitch blade for the thickness it's not a problem so we're running pretty slow here you can see the blade speed is pretty low so what i want to do is we're going to profile this but i just want to whack some of this material off just to get us a little closer to the uh a little closer to the profile it's not gonna bore you with a bunch of sun [Music] [Music] [Music] that's a three flute basset uh end mill quarter inch diameter and it has a little corner radius on the bottom and which really toughens makes that mill a lot tougher um it makes it more much more difficult to uh to chip trust me [Music] oh might as well deburr it while well it's in there right you know uh sheet metal or things like this sometimes you're not very flat so i can really make your campers look like like doo doo uh if uh you know the parts not flat so uh just beware that kind of stuff i should have controlled the z position of the tool a little bit because it's uh it's actually cutting into the fixture a little bit it decides how deep it wants to go automatically uh unless you specify a uh excuse me a z depth for the tip of the tool but uh oh that looks like it might have been i'm just opening these holes up these are my hold down holes uh for the cnc but these outer ones i really want it um open them up so the rods can go in there yeah and that was a boo-boo that plunge spot uh that nicked the opposite side so bozo strikes all right so we're gonna we're gonna bend the uh the tie rods now so we need a band that's we're gonna trim it to fit so um two and a quarter i'm just putting a little witness mark on there so i'm gonna bend two pieces and then we'll we'll kind of trim them okay now this is a 3 8 diameter stainless rod i just want a 90 degree bend i'm actually thinking about it see what a what a different angle look better all right well let's do 90 to start with here we go there that's pretty close to a little open all right all right that's nice i'm kind of thinking here um boy i wonder if that you know what i'm going to go with the 90s screw it okay so let's do the same thing on this end then i'll just cut them off to cut them off to suit and this is a homemade bender you guys might have picked up on that and uh i do have plans for it if anybody's interested in building they're wrong just email me and i will be happy to send the plans to you a little too much [Music] put the body gronk on it all right that's pretty nice now all right now we're just gonna mark them for cutting oops come on this is kind of a hard thing to hold there get a good line on it so i measured from the outside to the uh the boss all right so now i got to get a line on there do the other side yeah that's a better way to hold it and then i'll hex all these off and then just kind of belt sand it back to that line and then that'll be our uh that'll be our thing there actually i probably want a little bit of spring on it to kind of help squeeze that bushing when uh when we're welding it right so if we squeeze that bushing when we're welding it um it'll kind of keep it in place this sounds good anyway right so this next one is uh this next one's for our friend brian block who claims that uh that i have some kind of uh magical um magical uh hacksaw that are somehow special so that's a uh that's a bacco swedish hacksaw blade uh 14 tooth per inch so i have several hacksaws set up with different pitch blades so when i'm cutting thick stuff i grab the coarse one and i cut thin stuff like grab the thin one and uh or the lots of teeth per inch anyway that's for you brian all right i got it all fixtured up for for tacking here so uh this is aluminum bronze 954 aluminum bronze this is stainless steel and this is um this filler rod is silicon bronze okay which is a pretty good combo for joining these uh these materials together now um so what i want to do is i want to tack the stainless rod to the bronze i'm not going to put the ball on just yet because i realize that i won't be able to get the thing apart uh once i put weld the ball on so uh i got a little bit of work to do on the screw here to put the the grip uh that we that we're gonna use to uh so we can turn the uh the screw so i think i'm gonna tack it here tack it here both sides and then uh attack these rods to the uh the strainer plate there and go from there [Music] okay eyes and ears [Music] once i get a couple of tacks on there i kind of want to take that rod out of there i don't want it in there while i'm doing the main welding here actually just to keep you guys pretty much knew that uh this thing wasn't gonna escape uh some filing here so we're gonna take care of this kind of bumpy looking weld here so um and once again that's silicon bronze that's where we're going for there something like that okay so it looks like a bicycle frame right with a good nice braze joint and actually i got some low spots here i should probably yeah you know what i think i'm going to go back and add a little bit of filler to some of these uh these perceived low spots here um before i get to get medieval on this here yeah i don't like this little dingus mcgee there okay so let me i'm gonna go do that and then we'll be back for some [Music] filing this is a this is a chainsaw file um and it's perfectly cylindrical uh so it doesn't taper um and it's a it's a relatively uh fine i call it a medium i guess uh grit or cut cut is the correct term but you know when you have a uh you know these are slightly tapered that's a bastard cut there let's try that one [Music] um oops [Music] uh i don't want to i don't want to cut into that and i don't want to cut into that we don't want to we want a smooth transition between that and that and that does that make sense that that and that that's a lot of that so i'm trying to put a nice fillet in there is it actually you know what i like this other one better it cuts a little slower gives you that control that you want anyway i'm not gonna i know some folks out there like like to watch the filing but it's these segments can get kind of long but feel free to fast forward if you're not into if you're not into filing all right so you know like a lot of things takes a little patience right all right all right i'm gonna [Music] thank [Music] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] so these things next part of this these two little holes right here what we're gonna put on there is it's uh i'm just calling it the fence so basically it'll be a a curved piece um uh that plugs into those holes but matches this curve here and what that's for is when you drop the can in it's basically the stop so it'll come up about halfway something like that and uh stop the can when you're when you're holding it in this attitude here it'll drop in and it'll stay kind of like a v block right so it's actually kind of interesting because it's it's got a curve and then two bends that are in an opposite plane down and we're trying to nail a couple of centers right so um you know mildly tricky i guess is how i would characterize it so um my thought is the first thing is to bend this arc here and get the the arc kind of the way i want it and then um uh try to bend uh the the center lines there so let's give it a go see what happens and this is uh this is this uh eighth inch diameter uh stainless filler rod here and um so that's what we're going to use yeah i wonder if that would be better well i still have to i still have to do one bent so i was thinking if i bent it first like that and then bent the curve i want to over bend the curve right so i want to have extra on the curve and then bend down at that point so i think is what i want to do that sounds good anyway so we're going to use this this is just a uh something i made a long time ago it's kind of a hook bending fixture um but you can see that uh you can catch the the end there so you don't have to hang on to it so and this is this is pretty pretty close you see it's a little smaller than this you know when you bend wire like this there's some spring back so it's kind of a you know depending on the hardness of the wire and this wire is pretty hard actually from being cold drawn there's some variability in the spring back right so you always have to have something smaller so it just depends on the condition of the material how much smaller that is the the stiffer and harder it is this uh the smaller uh the uh or the greater the spring back i should say and the smaller the form that you would need so um so let's see i want a little bit of straight there yeah whatever oops he's got to do something sometimes okay all right so we got almost 180 there let's see what it looks like here okay so it's a little it's a little big but actually let's let's look on the um on the actual uh deal here let's see how it looks all right so there's a piece we just paint let's see what we look like here all right so just eyeballing it there it's actually a pretty good match with this with this od here but this radius is slightly inboard from that so we actually need it a little tighter than that [Music] um you know it's uh it's a lot easier to to uh open a bend up you know to make it a larger radius than it is to make it a smaller radius that's always uh that's always let's see if we can hand work this a little bit and see if we can get a little bit out of it i don't think i did anything there all right let me fuss around with this a little bit and then see if i can get a little closer so this thing here uh the radius that it produced is a and you can see how much spring back there is right so that's pretty considerable um this is what is this two and seven eighths inch is in diameter so i found this sitting over on the lathe here this is a little bit smaller here right here and i think we're gonna try that because we're not off by much um when you look at the you look at the the radius here it's pretty close all right it's pretty close i just want to move it in just a whisker so let's uh get this out of here and we're gonna we're gonna try this little guy here and if i'm lucky i can drop this below the surface just a little bit and use that as a uh actually this is gonna so this is this i'm just using this as a uh a retainer to um keep it from pop the rod from popping out let's see let's see a little bit more there all right so you want to do the whole band in in kind of one [Music] one whack oh yeah i kind of like that i kind of like it i kind of like it i kind of like it all right let's uh do a comparison here and oh yeah it's it's basically one wire thickness smaller which i think is about what we want so uh let me nick this off here and i'm such a weak kid anymore i used to be able to do this with just plain old diagonal cutters now bolt cutters i got no hand strength anymore so [Applause] all right let's see here yeah that looks pretty good so you see how it's it's it's stuck and under there at the ends that means the radius is back here so i'm gonna call i'm gonna call that close enough and uh so what i'm gonna do now i think i think i think is line this up i want to find that tangency point there because i want to try to get at least one bend with some straight material um and i'm going to mark it through this hole so i know what the centers are and then across my fingers that i lined it up on the bender uh you know you got there's a couple things going on we're coming up or coming around and then we have a center to center to hit too right so it's it's actually kind of a challenging little bending job i had to change my approach a little bit um the bench vise was wasn't gripping it um locally at the intersection there well enough uh so what i did i put a piece of copper just loose copper in there and clamped it in this precision vise and then this also allows me to to kind of uh adjust the bends a little bit dynamically hammering so it looks pretty good right now and then i have to just decide how much i uh i want to whack off there and hopefully our our radius didn't change much um in the process so [Applause] let's cross our fingers here all right it didn't look too bad this hand looks a little funny there but it is just a tuna can press right all right let me do a little massaging there and then let's see what happened to that so yeah you can see the uh and that and that's why i put the copper in there so i had an opportunity to instead of bending it against the immovable hard edge there it kind of gave it a little bit of softness there so that was a that was a challenging little bend to do actually and um in retrospect what i probably should have done was um and this is just a spacer to uh to set the height of that um i probably should have marked the the maybe locations i guess i would call it the uh um you know where i kind of wanted it right and then bent the thing up and then drilled the holes i probably could have saved myself quite a bit of pain there all right so that sets the uh the parallelism there of that and i should be flush and i'll just put a little weld on that and that'll retain that forever and there's my my complicated v block all right let's weld that little thing and then and do yourself a favor and cut that thing off while you're in the saw you'll thank me later when you step you don't stab yourself look at the uh these are the uh i'm gonna call them the butterfly wings to the uh the knob uh for tightening the uh the press up and i'm gonna go ahead and engrave the little ox logo on the uh on the face of one of those uh just to have a little id on the tool um so i use this template here just to you know kind of get a positioning uh that i like and it has a there's a little dot in the center that's the center of the the actual program okay and um so first we got to hold it i'm going to hold it on a little mini palette here stuff together here like so and um so oriented parallel to that uh this back edge here and then we're gonna engrave in this area here um what's interesting is we have kind of a tapered shape right so i want to pick up the center line of that right and i'll show you how we're going to do that we're going to use a hamer uh 3d taster to bisect that space at a certain a certain spot and uh give us the center line so uh uh which is you know pretty pretty normal stuff so let me get it straight with the world and then we'll uh get the hammer in there and we'll set our our work offset and engrave this all right we're just gonna we're just gonna um pick a spot that's kind of near our center line come up come over and what's interesting about the uh the hammer is it accounts for the ball diameter right all right so there's halfway or excuse me that so the spindle's on the on the edge now all right so what i'm going to do is i'm going to zero the x-axis okay and then i'm going to back this off and then without moving the y i'm going to come over to the other side and come down and then come back and i'm gonna get some goofy number okay which is eight nine three five so half of that point four four six seven okay is um is our center line all right so let's go back four four six seven okay so that's that's the center of that part so i'm gonna that's our um our x zero for uh g54 in this case all right so we're gonna set our uh our uh x axis and the way we do that is because x zero right and then we're just gonna hit the measure button and it's gonna transfer that number uh well the position into that and you can see that it only changed a little bit because the last job that i was doing was pretty close to that uh that center so then we'll go ahead and uh rinse and repeat for the uh for the uh for the y so this is a three inch gauge block and i set all my tools at this level here uh not on the deck but above um and you know most of your work's up up in the vise so i want to be it's actually the same number as the uh the bottom of the vise here so what i'm going to do i'm just verifying that there's no nothing weird going on so i check the gauge block and then then i look at the display yes where i think i should be and then what i'm going to do at this point is drive over to my part okay and in the area that and this has a z component to it or a z ability too right so now i'm gonna i'm gonna come down and zero this out okay and that's my work offset right there and i can read the number directly off of the uh the position here [Music] hmm not quite on center all right okay a boat up from the [Music] welding [Music] so so all right ready for ready for assembly here so okay there it is [Applause] i don't think you're ever going to get that compressed but you can put it in a in a bowl or in the sink or whatever to drain the uh the water out of the tuna there so so i'm gonna i'm gonna bead blast this and give it a kind of a uniform finish let's see pop that up and um then i'm gonna call it good and then i'm gonna let the mrs test it out and give me some feedback on it thanks for watching [Music] you

Channel: oxtoolco

Views: 58,417

Rating: 4.8894076 out of 5

Keywords: Machine work, Toolmaking, Mechanical design, tuna press, TIG welding, Welding dissimilar materials, CNC engraving, Makino KE55, Machine and fabricate

Id: 6vTMepYv1Pc

Length: 63min 16sec (3796 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 03 2021