Can I Get This Dirt Bike Shock Back Together?

hey everyone today I'll be rebuilding a shock for us cr250 got everything laid out here shock body is all cleaned up looking really good just finished up powder coating the shock spring shock shops all ready to go and then of course I've got the essentials needed to rebuild this thing pivot works came through with a shock rebuild kit it's got everything I need to completely overhaul in shock and Shaka will is definitely necessary as well Maxima hooked it up with their shock fluid product so big thank you to Maxima and pivot works for helping out with this project all right let's get started actually before I get started I have a question for you guys I have always wondered where most of my viewers are from so put it down in the comments what state you are from or which country and then I'm gonna go through and pick a random comment and this sticker pack will be yours got three stickers here they're all available over on my website prime em XCOM so put your comment down below and these stickers could be yours like always I'm gonna go through and make sure I've got all the parts necessary to do this job got a couple o rings shock bumper the whole rod guide assembly pretty sweet they send you just the whole assembly here with the seals already installed making it easy and then we've got the bladder with the piston ring and then the nut that goes on top of the shaft so they really set you up here give you everything you need so the first task is going to be replacing this rod guide with the new assembly the nut is gonna have to come off the top along with all the shims the piston and then the rod guide can slide off and while I'm at it replaced the bumper as well it is definitely going to be easiest to work with the shock shaft in a vise and what do you know I finally picked up a set of soft jaws for the vise so I'll be testing these things out see how I like them we've got these little magnets on the backside and they just snap right onto the Vice pretty slick I'll put the link to where I bought these soft jaws down in the description I've got the shaft crank down on the vise and it seems like the jaws are holding it pretty well we'll see how they hold up when I start working on the shaft of course the next step is to remove the nut on the end of the rod and usually these are held on a few different ways sometimes you'll have a locking nut that has a couple tabs where you push in and that'll lock it to the shaft however on this shock the end of the shaft has to be filed down till the diameter is about 10 millimeters that's the only way to get that nut off the shaft it is locked on pretty good so of course as you're filing the end of the shaft here you're gonna end up with some metal shavings that are gonna get on the piston and the shims and I don't really want to clean all that off later so in order to protect these parts from the metal shavings I am gonna cover the end of the shaft with you guessed it a condom sorry it's the first thing I thought of it's gonna roll this guy down it's like it's a pretty tight fit on here that will do the trick and then to get access to the shaft so I can file it it's gonna poke a little hole in the end which of course you never want to do but in this case it's fine so look at that perfectly sealed fit I could have worked any better I will put the link to where you can buy these condoms down in the description just make sure you use my discount code on a serious note I'm gonna start filing the shaft at a 30-degree angle and then taper it to a 45 towards the end all right I've got the end of the shaft ground down pretty good and hoping that's gonna be enough I'm gonna blow off all these metal shavings with the air compressor and then try it removing the nut we haven't even gone to the best part yet the coolest thing about using a condom for this you leave the condom on you pull the whole piston and Shemp sack off and it keeps everything clean and prevents the shims from coming apart alright how I'm going to do this is I've got a screwdriver here on the end of the shaft this whole assembly should slide up without any hesitation if it gets hung up at all you'll need to file down the shaft a little bit more and then I'm going to keep the piston and all the shims on the screwdriver until I put this thing back together now it's as simple as sliding off the rest of the parts off the shaft make sure you keep track of the order everything comes off in now is a good time to wipe everything down before the reassembly happens got a little brake cleaner here to help things out you really want to get the threads as clean as you can before installing all the new parts on the shaft I'm gonna make sure the threads on the end here are in good shape and the new nut goes on without any issues and if you have a die it would be a good idea to run it over these threads and clean them up so it looks like these threads are ready to go one last thing before I reassemble the shock shaft I'm gonna clean up the chrome here with a scotch brite pad just to remove any glazing and get it ready for the new parts you guys know where to find these scotch brite pads after a little wipe down everything is ready to go back on got the new bottoming cone here then next is the end plate and now for the new rod guide and for installing the rod guide it is really handy to have this little seal bullet just slides over the end of the shaft and creates a perfect transition for the guide to slide onto the shaft without harming the seal at all and of course as you're putting anything together you got to have some lubricant I'll be using the Maximus shock fluid just to give the shaft and the guide a nice little coat before slide the guide on just gonna go nice slow and easy right onto the shaft super nice having these steel bullets I'll put the link to where I bought this one down in the description and coming up next is the piston and shim assembly just like how I disassembled it I'm gonna line up the screw driver with the shaft and slide the whole assembly down onto the shaft condoms getting in the way all right looks like we're all free and clear now now is the time to peel this sucker off of here and get everything bolted down from the looks of it it appears everything stayed pretty clean underneath so I shouldn't need to do any cleaning with this and then of course the last thing on the list is to install the nut now obviously you can tell this nut is a little bit different than the one that was on here prior I believe with this one you just pinch these tabs over and it'll lock the nut onto the shaft and the torque spec on this nut is 27 foot pounds so in looking at this nut bending these tabs over onto the shaft doesn't look like it'll really prevent the nut from spinning off so instead of that I'm gonna peen the edge or right where the nut meets the shaft I'm gonna peen that and that will ensure the nut stays on so I've got this punch and of course a hammer and I'm gonna pinna mark right here where the nut meets the shock shaft and that will keep this whole assembly together I'm gonna need a little bit finer of a punch for this one alright one last thing pivot works provided me with a new ring for the piston this one right here so I'm gonna go ahead and replace the old one so the way these Pistons are removed is seems kind of ghetto but you got to get underneath it and cut it off then I've got two little ol rings underneath the ring that I'm gonna go ahead and replace give this thing a nice little cleanup here are the new o-rings that pivot works provided just giving everything a nice coat of oil before I slide that new piston ring into place if you guys remember from the fork rebuild video there is this little plastic bullet similar to the shock bullet this is for sliding fork seals in a place I was able to get it over the top of the piston and this will make it a lot easier for getting the ring into place be surprised if I don't snap a fingernail here this is really pushing them to the limits alright I've got the ring into place and how I just got to get the the bullet out of here jammed in there pretty good I am really surprised this actually worked this is kind of just a random passing thought of mine alright there we are ring is into place and everything is good to go the next step is installing the shock shaft back into the shock body before I put the shock shaft back into the shock body I'm gonna do a little explaining how this whole piston and shim stack assembly works alright as the shock is compressing the piston is traveling upwards and oil is going through these little ports right here once the oil travels through the top side of the piston it goes to the bottom side here where there's another shim stack so we have a shim stack on both the bottom side and the top side and what the shim stack does is it controls the flow of the oil going through the piston so you see all those little shims in there they're all individual pieces the diameter and thickness of each GIM controls every aspect of how the oil flows through the piston the bottom stack we're looking at right now is the compression stack and up top is the rebound stack as the shock is rebounding the oil is flowing through this stack here so when you hear of a shock or a fork getting resolved which a fork has the same exact set up all these shim stacks and a piston what they're doing is they are rearranging the shim stack changing diameter changing thickness and possibly changing out the piston and so altering the shim stack or changing out the piston is gonna change the characteristics of the shock under compression and rebound alright what does a bladder do then these are usually charged with nitrogen and they fit right up inside of here the bladder is what holds constant pressure to the hydraulic system within the shock and it prevents cavitation which basically is air being trapped inside the shock hence why these things are with nitrogen all right why nitrogen instead of oxygen well nitrogen is a much more stable gas especially under temperature so sharks actually get pretty hot under use and nitrogen just performs that much better all right one last thing the compression adjuster is basically just another valve that controls oil flow and it sits right up inside of here inside of the shock body here is where all the oil is contained and when it flows up here to the compression adjuster there's a little hole that goes to the bladder and that is where the compression adjuster does its job controls the oil flow going from the shock body to the bladder reservoir I think I'm ready to get the shock back together put the shock body in the vise upside down you'll definitely want to make sure you install the spring nuts before putting the shock shaft into the body as you'll see I forgot to do that the first time around during like half the assembly so the lock nut goes on top just spin it all the way down and then the flange nut goes on the bottom just like that before sliding the shock shaft into the body I'm going to oil up the body and the piston and seals on the shaft and then just gonna slide the two pieces together now with the new piston ring it's gonna be a little bit stiff going in but over time it'll wear in since the end cap is going to be in the way as I'm trying to install the seal head I'm going to tape it to the bottom of the shock here I'll need to compress the seal head just enough so I have access to the groove and that way I can get the snapping into place it is the blacks or clip that goes right here there's two different circuits on the shock and it's easy to confuse them so I have just enough room to get the circlip into position pretty simple just push it down until it snaps into place now the end cap is going to be put into its place and if you're gonna use the hammer definitely go with a plastic hammer always a good idea to check the shaft operation once you have it together time to install the new bladder as you can see the sides of the old bladder are a bit compressed and that's usually a pretty good idea that it needs to be replaced this pops off the cap like that you should probably clean things up just going to apply a little bit of oil to the inside of the new bladder so the new bladder pops on pretty easy I'm gonna need a little bit of oil upon installation just makes things go a little bit easier and some oil on the inside of the reservoir as well not a whole lot to consider here just push the bladder and cap down into the reservoir until you see the ring up here or the groove up here as you can see now I've got room to pop this retaining ring into place make sure it snaps in and to seat the bladder I'm gonna add a little bit of air pressure to the bladder and it'll push it up and into place looks like the bladder seated all the way I'm gonna let out some pressure of course it's gonna decompress a little bit all right that is it for the bladder assembly so I flipped the shock around in the vise with the adjuster hole facing up and it's somewhat level and now with the shock shaft all the way extend it out going to fill up the shock body with oil all right now to bleed all the air that shock I'm gonna slowly pump the shaft several times and when there's no more air bubbles come to the surface that means all the air is out of the system and as you're bleeding the shock you're gonna have to continually add oil to top it off now to bleed the air out of the reservoir gonna add a little bit of pressure to the bladder they recommend seven psi for this step and it's a good idea to cover up the adjuster hole that way oil doesn't go everywhere all right now with the shock filled all the way up to the top with oil time to install the compression adjuster this is going to be kind of a messy process so you want to kind of wrap the shock with a rag here so I'm just gonna simply push the adjuster into the hole and it's gonna push a bunch of oil out of here but this is really the only way to do it without letting air into the system just gonna tighten this puppy down the recommended torque spec is 22 foot-pounds now with that completed everything internal is now done on the shock except for charging the bladder with nitrogen this will need to be charged to 142 psi I'll get around to doing that a little bit later now it's on to the step I've been waiting for this whole time gonna install this beautiful spring onto the shock so there was only one way the spring can go on once you slide it up into place you'll see if it matches up with the colored nut up top and then to get the retaining ring and clip into place the two nuts are gonna have to be threaded all the way up to the top so there's room down here at the bottom just slide the ring and the clip into place just like the clips I installed earlier just snaps into position make sure it's in the groove all the way around and then the retaining ring goes over that clip just like that and back to the nuts up on the top I can start tightening these down onto the spring I'm gonna go about a quarter of the way down the threads just as a starting point and then once I have the shock installed on the bike I'll go ahead and set the shock preload it's amazing how easy these nuts spin on the threads after cleaning them up at the scotch-brite wheel I'm thinking that should be a good starting point for the shock preload as far as pressurizing the bladder with nitrogen I don't have a way of doing that at home so I'm gonna drop the shock off at a local bike shop and have them do it for me usually they charge about 10 to 20 bucks for that service all righty guys got the shock back from charging and now it is completely done everything I had expected and maybe even a little bit more very stoked at the outcome though really hope you guys enjoyed this video I had a ton of fun putting this one together so when you need any sort of rebuild kit or fluids for your bike definitely get in contact with maxima and pivot works I have been really impressed with their products I'll put their info down below thanks for watching guys I will see you soon you

Channel: Cameron Niemela

Views: 178,848

Rating: 4.9281931 out of 5

Keywords: Can I Get This Dirt Bike Shock Back Together, Dirt Bike Shock, Putting Together Shock, Shock, Motorcycle Shock, Dirt Bike Suspension, How To, Assembly, Motorcycle Suspension, Honda, CR250, Honda CR250, Dirt Bike, Motorcycle, 2 Stroke, Two Stroke, Dirt Bike Build, Fixing Motorcycle, Cameron Niemela, Niemela, MX, Motocross, 250 2 Stroke, CR250 Project, 2003 CR250, CR250 Rebuild, Rebuild, Dirt Bike Project, Fixing CR250, Dirt Bike Repair, Motorcycle Repair, 2 Stroke Project

Id: TH338cimaMI

Length: 23min 49sec (1429 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 04 2018