I Destroyed These Bearings

what's up everyone so today's project is completely foreign to me I've actually never changed out steering stem bearing x' or even the steering stem races on a frame before so join me as I learned through the process of it all and make sure you hang in there I've got something really cool for you about halfway through the video just a quick little overview of what I'll be doing so the top bearing slides right off but the bottom bearing is pressed onto the stem and I'm going to show you how you can remove that using no special tools and then over here on the frame the races are pressed in as well and I'll be using a race remover to pop those out however it is possible to use a punch or a socket extension to remove them this frame is freaking sexy by the way to see the video of me shining it up just click the little circle right up here in the corner so I've got the nuts in the upper bearing off the stem already and my plan for removing the lower bearing is to cut the outer shell of the bearing where the needle sit and that should expose a nice lip to get a grasp with a punch and knock the inner race off the stem no I've never tried this before but it should be fun figuring it out I'm gonna pop this thing in the vise so it's a little easier to work on all right I've got a set of side cutters here and hopefully that cuts through the bearing and remember safety first guys I've got it cut through the top part of the bearing just need to make one more snip here at the bottom looks like I've got to cut through both sides of bearing now for the fun part this is just browse open for there's a nice fat lip here on the race to get ahold of with a punch I've just got a flat punch and a hammer and I should be able to knock this thing right off so I guess another way of removing this bearing would be to use the same punch but wedge it in between the triple clamp and the bearing but I would rather not troop the triple clamp in the process of course as the race is coming off you want to be as even as possible so I move from one side to the other to the top just however whatever it takes do you get it off evenly as you can see the race ended up chipping in a few spots so I'm going to move to the bottom of the race and use the seal as the protector for the triple clamp so that actually worked out pretty good I ended up with a little nick in the triple clamp though it should be able to fix that pretty easily all right I am all ready to install these new bearings and races so the triple clamp might look a little bit different I ended up sarah coding it if you haven't seen that video it is absolutely epic just click the circle right up here in the corner for bearings I've got this pivot work set it's got both bearings both races and all the seals required and then here are the tools necessary to do the job this is a steering stem bearing installer kit and then over here is a very press so everything necessary to do the job all this was supplied by rocky mountain so huge huge shout out to them before I get started let's take a second and pick the winner for the giveaway of this master cylinder cap you guys crushed it on this one 1,500 comments that's insane all right so it's generator it's gonna pick a complete random comment from that video and you will be the winner who we got beta KTM rider it says both two-stroke and four-stroke love your vids alright man or woman whoever you are should be a message here on YouTube with your shipping address and I will get this master cylinder cap over to you Congrats the first step of course is to make sure I've got everything necessary as far as parts go I've got the two seals got a bearing and a race and another bearing and a race oh and of course you can't forget the grease so I'm looking at these bearings they both got the same part number on this particular bike no need to worry about differentiating the top from the bottom and before I get started with assembling anything I'm gonna pack these bearings full of grease now the goal here with packing the bearings is the have grease pouring out of each individual needle and in between the inner and outer race as well and how I'm going to go about this is by squirting grease on the outside of the bearing here or you can just put grease in the palm of your hand and we're gonna work it all into the bearing I'm just gonna go for both here grease in the palm and grease on the bearing so I've got my fingers jammed inside the bearing here and I'm just gonna work the grease all into the bearing until we have grease pouring out of every part of the bearing thing I like about pivot works is they provide you with red grease which of course as you guys know is my favorite color remember all that grease I'd put on the bearing and in my palm now somehow packed inside that bearing you can see there's grease coming out between the two races and as I'm spinning the bearing here the rollers are thoroughly coated and just for good measure I'm gonna put a little bit more on top now I'm just gonna follow the same exact process on this other bearing pretty straightforward all right the lower bearing is ready to be pressed onto the triple clamp now and of course it would be a disaster if you forgot the seal that goes underneath the bearing so we've got two seals here one with a thinner lip and one with a fatter lip so the one with the thinner lip goes over the stem and underneath the lower bearing just like that with the lip facing up and just to help the cause I'm gonna put a little bit of grease on the stem since these bearings are both the same won't really matter which one goes on first just got to make sure the taper is facing up and right there as the farthest I can get it down by hand now this is where the Tusk steering stem bearing installer comes in handy got a few different size adapters here just gonna size it up and figure out which one is correct all right looks like the green one doesn't fit down onto the stem try out the red one that should be it so you want the installer tool to be pressing on the inner race of the bearing the inner race is the inner part you see on the bearing right there so looks like this one's good to go now I'll need to size up the stem with a socket by putting a socket underneath the triple clamp on the stem here that will ensure the stem doesn't move at all during this process looks like I've got the correct one right there 24 millimeter just gonna place the socket underneath the triple clamp and I'll be ready to press this bearing into place and this is the tool that slides over the stem and makes contact with that red adapter it is pretty straightforward just hammering on the end of the shaft here and making sure the bearing is going on straight I've just about got the bearing seated and when I get to the bottom it'll make a different sound so at that point time to stop you can hear it right there more of a solid sound to it like I said earlier this is actually my first time ever installing a new lower bearing and however this tool it made it super easy it kind of centers itself or locates itself on the stem and then you've got the adapter which fits perfectly with the bearing so no need to worry about damaging the bearing or putting it on crooked and so far the center coating on the triple clamp is holding up awesome I expected to see a little bit of silver showing through from being in contact with a socket but I don't see any damage whatsoever with the bottom bearing installed it is time to pop in these new bearing races but first I'll need to remove the old ones so I've got the frame all bolted down to the stand here and I guess that means the bike is starting to go back together alright to remove these old bearing races I'll just be using a hammer along with a long 3/8 inch extension and of course as you're whacking on this thing you want to make sure you're working it out evenly go from one side to the other now if you're having trouble with removing the old races I would recommend heating up the area with a propane torch that will help out quite a bit I'm taking a look at these old races here and they seem to be in pretty good shape I don't see any pitting on them but nonetheless it's a good idea to replace them alongside the new bearings before the new races go in I'm just gonna clean up the frame with some brake cleaner and a rag here and it never hurts to apply some grease before installation on this bike both races are the same so it doesn't matter which one goes where it is time to bust out the bearing press just gonna figure out which adapter I need here looks like that one fits pretty snug in there also supplied in the kit is this handle to get the bearing race started and straight looks like the race is going in pretty straight it's gonna get this call it back into place and now I've got the actual press part of the tool this is the handle that goes up top and the shaft that slides through the neck of the frame it's pretty slick the shaft has a quick release button to adjust the depth and now I'm gonna slide the shaft through the neck of the frame and install the handle up top I'll need to move this thing up a few notches right about there looks good whether you're pressing in the top race or the bottom race you always want to have the handle on top of the frame it's making sure I got everything all lined up here and so tightening down the handle will press that race down inside the frame as the race is being pressed in you should be able to feel when it bottoms out and it's definitely important to have that race seated all the way and then pressing the quick release on the bottom will release this whole assembly from the frame like I said earlier it's super important for the race to be seated all the way in the frame make sure there's no gap underneath it and if you applied any grease you'll be able to see it squeezing out once that race is seated all the way now the process for the bottom race is gonna be slightly different here I've got the race I'm gonna get it into place and then I've got the handle with the collet on it just to get things started things are looking good with the race so I'm gonna pop to call it off the handle and grab the press tools all right what'll be different this time around is I'll be putting the call it on the bottom side instead of the top sliding the shaft through the frame with the handle on and then putting the quick-release on the bottom side and like I said earlier you always want to have the handle the tool up on top of the frame just got to make sure I got this quick-release walked into place there it is and then I can tighten the handle up top just gonna keep twisting until I feel it bottom out it feels like it stopped right there so I'm gonna pull this apart and make sure that race is seated all the way since the bottom race is a little tougher to see I've got a 90 degree pick here just gonna run it up inside and make sure there's no gap all the way around all right we're all set races are all pressed in man having this press tool was definitely a lifesaver I don't know if I would have been able to get these races in straight otherwise what I'm excited about now is installing these triple clamps and seeing how the bronze goes with the aluminum but before I slide the triple clamp in gonna dab some more grease onto these races and bearings I've always preferred setting up the top bearing seal and the nut that way I'm not trying to scrounge for parts as the triple clamps already in now it's a pretty simple deal from here on out now to tighten down this nut I've got a spanner wrench which will take care of that since I can't set the steering head tension without the front ompletely together I'm just gonna tighten down this nut until it's somewhat snug man those new bearings and fresh grease make it so smooth all right right about there feels good it's got some tension but it's definitely not loose to the point where it's sloppy time to top it off with the upper triple clamp this should look amazing now I'm gonna top it off of the washer and this trick little anodized nut that I snagged from Rocky Mountain actually before I throw that nut on I know these threads corrode pretty easily so I'm gonna use some anti-seize lubricant just gonna cinch down the nut with a steering stem wrench and just like the lower nut can't give it a final tighten until the front end is all together these wrenches are super handy to have it's got a thirty two millimeter on one side and 30 mil on the other so it'll work on pretty much any bike out there as well as most rear axles - and I know someone out there could really put one of these wrenches to use so I'm gonna hook you up all you have to do is comment down below what your dream motorcycle is it could be anything then I'm gonna go through and pick one your comments at random and have Rocky Mountain ship you one of these wrenches good luck everyone oh man that looks so rad I love the bronze look with the red I cannot wait to put this bike together some more the next video will be on doing some really cool things with the brakes so stay tuned you guys know the deal by now all the parts and tools they use throughout the video are linked down below so that way you're not on a wild goose chase looking for stuff alright thank you so much for watching everyone and I will see you around

Channel: Cameron Niemela

Views: 102,949

Rating: 4.8954382 out of 5

Keywords: I Destroyed These Bearings, Destroyed Bearings, Ruined Bearings, Destroyed Steering Stem Bearings, Steering Stem Bearing Replacement, Replacing Stem Bearings, Installing Stem Bearings, Honda, CR250, Honda CR250, Dirt Bike, Motorcycle, 2 Stroke, Two Stroke, Dirt Bike Build, Fixing Motorcycle, Cameron Niemela, Niemela, Motocross, 250 2 Stroke, CR250 Project, CR250 Rebuild, Rebuild, Dirt Bike Parts, Motorcycle Parts, How To, MX, Dirt Bike Bearings, Steering Bearings, Broken Bearing

Id: YNaMF8OHyBs

Length: 18min 8sec (1088 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 06 2018