Building a Partition Wall | The Carpenter's Daughter

so since last phone this bulletin has had major changes already so this weekend we'll show you how we put partition wall in the front living room to break you up into two bedrooms so if you've not caught up with last week's video here's another recap of the original floor plans we're just focusing on the living room area today because some areas have obviously changed and the original one window was massive and we thought little out of place that allowed us to put a partition wall in the center and split the rooms up to a double bedroom and a smaller bedroom or possibly office so unfortunately because I'm not here all the time I missed a fair bit of this and right now the electrician family friend is showing me what my dad's done talking me through how he's originally laid a straight piece of a structural timber along the floor between the walls and then chopped out sections for the doorways these are c6 teens that were working with and then work out some right angles because obviously there needs to be a door opening for each of these bedrooms so the electrician is here because it can sort out the electrics as we're going along so here you can see three strips of structural timber stacked on top of each other my dad's already screwed that bottom one down to the floor and the two on top is going to be the bottom and top of the stood a wall because we're going to screw it together and then put it in situ but because ceiling heights differ I'm holding the first one right up to the ceiling and I'm mocking from the bottom aware I need to cut it down then I repeated for the other ones it's also really important to mark out which one is which so you don't get them mixed up and the studs in between a distance about 400 mil and that's all down to the width of the plaster board that you use in and then I've cut each one with the chop saw so now I've got everything cut we need to just take the timber away build it up and then put it in situ but because it's a very tight space now we all did this is teamwork where me and my husband would fix one end and my mum and dad would fix the other and I'm using an impact driver for the very first time please note these are not my tools I couldn't say whether I recommend them or not I'm actually borrowing the electricians at the moment so there's no pre drilling here we're just driving in screws with the impact driver it was useful having a spare hands just hold it in situ while I attached it so now is all built it's time to slaughter in place because we know we've got the timbers to match the ceiling height so we shouldn't have any problems [Music] although my end was a little bit tight I had to just boot it into place then I went around making sure the timber was in line with that base piece and I screwed from the bottom side first to the other studded wall that had been built then I screwed the top one in before carrying on with the bits in between and now the base of the studded wall to that base piece but by the time we got to the end where the wall is I use a spirit level to make sure it was right and gently tapped it until it was perfect now to use an SDS hammer drill to drill holes straight through the wood and masonry and attach it using the long specs of screws or you could call them masonry screws don't worry I'll leave the link to the things I'm using below if you remember I use these in my trellis hanging video it's also a good point to note I'm using the combi drill on setting one apparently ever used it on two it would break my wrists then to screw the top piece now this is a bit I wasn't sure about but apparently the screws will poke through the ceiling then when you go into the Attic you'll be able to see them then you could have a few blocks of timber bite you up there and then screw downwards while you're in there to the studying itself but my dad's going to leave that for a later day but at least you get the idea and that's where we left things off until we've written the following week to work on the noggins and the plaster board so I learnt that it's very important to mark out your noggins from the base because the timber tends to be bowed in the centre and screwing them roughly about halfway although my dad had marked out where the nog eens were going to go anyway and these ones were staggered for ease but in a couple of weeks I'll talk about a different method that we use for studying a wall for the ensuite and normally I would pre-drill holes but I'm using my dad's combi drill and it worked a treat without and when it came to the very end one my dad suggested to screw in a shorter screw on an angle that way when I do put some longer screws in it won't force it down so it's screwing slightly downwards lift the screw up pop it on an angle and then screwed straight through the two pieces and I do this twice before removing that little screw or you could just leave it but my pocket hole jig doesn't work with timber like this so I'll definitely be doing this a lot more in the future and then it would be time to attach the plasterboard on so a bit of teamwork again we're lifting up the plasterboard making sure it's in line with the side and my dad made this makeshift proper up thing apparently can buy these it's a piece of structural timber on some thick dowel with another piece of wood underneath and while I'm hauling it in line he would step on it to push it up and if you wanted more over the left or the right propping up you just angled it in that direction so while he's propping that up I'm screwing the passer board to the structural timber but bear in mind I've got it on a really low setting otherwise I'd drilled some really fine holes and just attached with a hand screwdriver and I attached screws about every six inches and first I do that all the way around and because we haven't covered up the back area yet and we knew where the studs were I've marked them on a scrap piece of skirting board and held this exactly in line with the structural timber on this side and transfer those pencil lines to the plastic board here and once I've done that I knew exactly where to draw straight lines for where my screws would go straight through the battens but I was told you could also mark the ceiling as well for the next plaster board it was held in line where it needed to go the electrician drew from the back and I'm using a plaster board knife I don't quite know what this is called exactly it was like a bread knife and I'm carefully cutting out that lights which I was told not to make it too small but obviously don't go overboard and after that fit snug as a bug it was time to continue that whole process screwing the plaster board to all of the studs because we've lifted it right to the ceiling my dad also put some strips so I screwed them along the bottom now I haven't shown you how to cut the plaster board I didn't do any of that but I have done it in the past I'm just gonna show you a little clip of how I did that if you want to watch that video you'll find a link to it below but it was just basically scoring it with a stanley knife folding it over and then cutting with a stanley knife from the back of it I found it really easy to cut and if you get it wrong plaster body's relatively cheap anyway now we've still got a fair few electrics to get done so we left the side wall but hopefully in the next few videos I'll get to show you where corner beads are going to be put on the corners of the pasta board and then wear a plasterer will be coming to plaster all the walls but if you do anything differently as usual please comment below I'd love to hear especially so I'll learn for next time and hopefully I'll see you next

Channel: The Carpenter's Daughter - Vikkie Lee

Views: 57,514

Rating: 4.8807454 out of 5

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Id: GwLh_MG8Skw

Length: 8min 30sec (510 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 01 2019